Hey there APJ,
Today we are going old school. Caron has long been lauded as a house to revere. Their Tabac blond vintage extrait is enough to give even the most hardcore perfumista Stendahl Syndrome. I have quite a bit of their vintage Bellodgia and Infini in all forms, Nocturnes, Narcisse Noir, Parfum Sacre, Nuit de Noel and a sprinkling of others in samples and decants. There is even an old extrait bottle that has lost its label and I’ve given up deciding what it is and just wear it for the absolute pleasure it brings.
Poivre by Caron 1954
Poivre by Michel Morsetti
Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Clove, Pepper, Red pepper
Heart: Carnation, Rose, Ylang-ylang
Base: Oakmoss, Opoponax, Sandalwood, Vetiver
Pepper and clove, zingy, dry, hot, smoky and ticklish in the back of my throat. It’s like fresh cracked black pepper and cloves. The bottle even looks like one of those clove studded oranges Mum would put in the bathroom over Christmas to give a spice/clean smell. The opening is big and surprising. Did you ever smoke those clove cigarettes? A bit like that but with added dryness.
This huge fanfare doesn’t stay at that level for long, maybe two minutes and then we start to smell a lessening in intensity and in swirls a mildly creamy ylang. It’s such a counterpoint to what comes before and really gives a smoothness, slightly banana peel and a little waxy. The rose and carnation are so much part of the clove that I’m finding real difficulty in telling them apart. Though the fragrance intensity has lessened still we have a fully fragrant spice bomb.
Even hours and hours later I still have cloves that are now lightly tempered by resins and a hint of dry grass. Longevity is out of this world and though not hugely projecting it still leaves a very interesting scent train (I can smell Poivre in the room when I walk out and back in again).
Further reading: Yesterday’s Perfume and Non Blonde
I bought my sample from Surrender To Chance but they don’t seem to have it anymore.
Do you have anything absolutely precious in your sample kit that you know once it’s gone you’ll never have again?
8 thoughts on “Poivre by Michel Morsetti for Caron 1954”
I unearthed my last decant of vintage Dioressimo. How pretty and fleeting. Will enjoy it while it’s here.
YUMMY! Diorissimo, lovely.
Clove and carnation are always notes which grab my attention. Unfortunately you are correct and Surrender to Chance no longer has it and neither does The Perfumed Court. We will all have to be satisfied by your wonderful review. Sigh!
It will resurface somewhere. Keep your eyes peeled.
I have been intrigued by Poivre for a long time. Does it share a dna with another Caron vintage creation. I got vintage Tabac Blonde and vintage En Avion from the same seller few months ago and I was surprised that they both smelled quite similar at times.
I think they all have Accord 113 in their base like a Caron-ade Fazal. The house has a famous dry down tempered by a few extras in each frag. I still got pepper all the way through here and it did override the resinous base.
I wish there was a museum of vintage frags where we could just like art, it is art!
There is Anna-Maria.
The Osmotheque in the area Versailles, Paris. You can book a class with the perfumers. Michael Borg and I were lucky enough to get Jean Kerleo. the nose who created 1000 and Sublime for Patou.
It was an amazing afternoon.
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