Gucci Guilty Absolute by Alberto Morillas for Gucci 2017

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Portia

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Hey there Designer Frag Fiends,

Normally a 21st century message about a Gucci flanker would draw single eyebrow raised type archness from the grand perfumista community. Stick of shocks the word on the scentbloggosphere is that this newly released creature is Da Bomb! Even noses I’ve revered forever are calling this a return to Tom Ford time form for Gucci. High praise.

I did try it in the Duty Free area on our latest jaunt and found it nice enough. What I didn’t realise was that when I was buying some stuff in Luxembourg the SA had given me a sample to take home. YIPPEE!

One thing I have noticed is that this is an incredibly well priced fragrance. Kudos to the creative director at Gucci, Alessandro Michele, for keeping it so affordable. The scent is Coty group, does anyone know if they have the whole Gucci line under lock & key or is this new?

Gucci Guilty Absolute by Gucci 2017

Gucci Guilty Absolute by Alberto Morillas

Gucci Guilty Absolute Gucci FragranticaFragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Woodleather®, Goldenwood®, Nootka cypress, Patchouli, Vetiver

Woodsiness, a little bit sharp like pine. Behind the crisp new planks of wood it’s smoky and dry. Very niche smelling and the leather is expensive clothing leather, finished and new. Though Gucci Guilty Absolute is fragrant there is a modern sheerness that reminds me of the way a Jean Claude Ellena Hermessence would smell if he chose to do this style. There’s something spare and unearthly about the treatment of woods and leather here.

During the heart I also get metallic and oily hints, like old, well used machinery running but not working. Also sawdust, you know how mixed wood sawdust has a dry and dusty wood smell? Like that.

Gucci

When the patchouli arrives it is waxy and clean, a very nice background noise that adds a smoothness to Gucci Guilty Absolute.

I bet this is a major hit for Gucci. Everyone could wear it, easy to wear, smells expensive and refined. I can imagine school kids, office workers, ladies who lunch and gym bodies all spritzing and wearing Gucci Guilty Absolute beautifully.

Further reading: Persolaise and Brooklyn Fragrance Lover
Gucci Australia has $108/50ml

What was the last Gucci scent you liked or bought?
Portia xx

Citrus Ester by Amélie Bourgeois and Anne-Sophie Behaghel for Aether 2016

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Portia

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Hiya Frag Freaks,

Modern is the catch cry of Aether, these guys use nothing but captured and created molecules in their scents. A far cry from the old school beauty of naturals and their multifaceted wearings. Here we have industrial scent for the 21st century that manages to remain beautiful, interesting and wearable. When the range first came out I judged them to be ghastly without ever trying one, just because of the concept, but every time I wear one my incredulity falls away and I’m swayed towards their concept.

I grabbed this sample from Surrender To Chance.

Citrus Ester by Aether 2016

Citrus Ester by Amélie Bourgeois and Anne-Sophie Behaghel

Citrus Ester Aether FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Grapefruit, rhubarb, methyl pamplemousse

Sharp sweetness, ferociously clean, cold spoon on tongue, clean sink, fresh air, metal, citrus, ropey greenness. I have never smelled citrus done like this. Captivating and obnoxious. HA! A non animalic grapefruit with a never grown in the earth rhubarb.

I can imagine people who loved L’Eau d’Issey in the 1990s but found it too of its time to continue wearing it will love Citrus Ester. It’s a modern reimagining of the classic but with added sugar and airiness.

Great staying power and fresh to the last whiff, but a different to what we’re used to fresh. This fresh is still invigorating, doesn’t really move around much, nods to cologne as it flies past in a space ship.

Perfect work scent, I can especially imagine it being an excellent after gym scent. Once your body has heated up with a workout, you’ve showered off but this over your bodies innate humanity will be excellent.

Citrus Ester Aether metallic-platter BlueSnap pixabayPDI

From AetherCITRUS ESTER. IF I REMEMBER CORRECTLY, IT WAS ON THE FIRST DAY OF THE WORLD. ONE OF THOSE DAYS THAT SEEMS TO STRETCH OUT FOREVER, AND YOU ARE NOT QUITE SURE THERE IS GOING TO BE A SECOND. THE MOMENT QUIVERS WITH ENERGY. AN ENERGY GHOST, BRIGHT (METHYL GRAPEFRUIT) AND CARING, TINGED WITH A SLIGHT TASTE OF PRIMORDIAL FRUIT (FIRASCONE, RHUBAFURANE). LIFE, THE BEGINNINGS OF LIFE.

Citrus Ester Aether Fragrantica pic

Further reading: BL’eauG
Aether has AUD$145/50ml and delivers to the world
Surrender To Chance has samples from $3.60/0.5ml

Do you like the idea of a fragrance made entirely of captured and created molecules?
Portia xx

Madawi by Arabian Oud

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Erica Golding

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Joyfully scented greetings to you all!

I must say, tonight I had planned to write up a different fragrance, but a special delivery landed that smashed my plans into smithereens. Are you into Arabian perfumery yet? If so, you would squee with delight over this hidden gem! If not, seek out this bottle, it will blow your mind from the inside out:

Madawi by Arabian Oud

My gorgeous goddess friend Cyndi has brought tears to my eyes with her incredible friendship, and I am so thrilled that we have bonded thanks to our shared love of scent. Because of her kickassery of sample enabling, I unboxed a presentation today that I already knew housed a scent worthy of the glitz. The packaging is totally over the top, but it dazzled me tenfold because I fell in love with this perfume in a nondescript little 5 mL hex bottle.

What does it smell like? Well, miraculous is one way to put it. Rose petals cascade into an upswell of luscious fruit nectar, precious woods, a tasteful kiss of smoothly aged patchouli, and a silky white musk haze. It is insanely balanced, a very carefully composed blend that really is effortlessly sexy. It screams evening wear, this is a date night perfume for sure – but I know I will be rocking Madawi whenever I want to feel the power of feminine intensity.

From Arabian OudA Special fragrance inspired by the character of the contemporary women, the pride of time Al Aseel including the aromatic bouquet of apple, peach, pineapple melted memories of last longing, an anchor on the base of roses and flowers, patchouli and musk, deeply feeling of real satisfaction .

Have you heard of Madawi? Have you scored any other gems from Arabian Oud, whether hidden or a cult favorite or a fragrance legend? An Arabian Oud storefront opened in New York City not too long ago, I am physically aching to go. 🙂 Have you been? Tantalize me with your tales!

Arabian Oud has $150/90ml

Talk to you all soon, hope you spritzed wisely today!

Hugs, Erica

Superstitious by Dominique Ropion for Frederic Malle 2016

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Val the Cookie Queen

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Good Day from the UK APJ Peeps!

As you read this I will probably be trundling my way towards the Frederic Malle store in Burlington Arcade with Tara from A Bottled Rose and the B.londeswunder. Originally it was planned that we would sniff Superstitious together, but that was four weeks ago. I mostly have no problem waiting to try something but every once in a while the junkie in me grabs hold and I have no control. I commented on a FB thread as to how excited I was to try Superstitious and six days later the postman turned up with a package from France with a sample in it. Nothing like a generous addict helping another one out. I believe we call it an enabler in our circle? As opposed to a pusher?

Superstitious Alber Elbaz par Frederic Malle 2017

Superstitious by Dominic Ropion

Superstitious Frederic Malle FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Jasmine, rose, peach, amber, incense, vetiver, patchouli, aldehydes

For some reason I keep calling this perfume suspicious, I think I need to tattoo Superstitious onto my forehead. Dunno why I can´t get a handle on it.

Malle´s first collaboration was with Dries von Noten, the Belgian fashion designer. This was back in 2013. He returns now with number two. Superstitious is an alliance with Alber Elbaz, the Moroccan-Israeli fashion designer, formerly of Lanvin. You might wanna Google him if you have a few moments. He is a really interesting character not to mention his exquisite designs. If I were rich and wore dresses …….

GOBSTOPPER SWEETS

Gobstoppers (jawbreakers) consist of a number of layers and colours, and as each layer dissolves another appears; these layers are often flavoured too. It takes hours and hours, and sometimes days to finish them.

Here we have jasmine, rose, a hint of peach, amber, incense, vetiver, and patchouli wrapped in a thick layer of waxy aldehydes. There is an underlying whisp of grapeness too, the dark purple artificially flavoured Kool-Aid kind. A 1950´s vintage fragrance presented to us in 2017. As the divine waxy aldehydes melt away, the jasmine just bursts forth indolic, with elegance and sophistication. It languishes and slowly melts down into the rich velvety foundation, yet remains intertwined with the full-bodied base notes. Lavish but with a rough edge, and particularly seductive.

It is perfect, Ropion knows it, and I doubt he cares less what anyone else has to say about it.

Further reading: Candy Perfume Boy and Perfume Posse
Frederic Malle has €50/10ml

After using the sample I promptly ordered the 10ml travel spray. My first jasmine. I hope Tara and I will find something else to sniff and whilst in the shop! A travel Dries van Noten might not hurt eh?

Suspicious Bussis
CQ

PS. It might be fair to say if waxy aldehydes and indolic jasmine sounds like death warmed up, you might wanna try something else – as did LJG.

(Ed: Pics supplied by Val the CQ unless otherwise noted)

Fragrance Shopping – USA Premium Outlet Centres

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TinaG

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Hi APJ!

During my trip to Southern California in April 2017, we had an opportunity to check out two Premium Outlet Centres, one in Camarillo on the way to Santa Barbara, and Desert Hills which is just outside of Palm Springs. If you’re ever heading to one of these massive shopping areas, my top tips are:

* Take water, snacks and lunch. Yes there’s food there but you’ll need actual sustenance to get through the shopping day.
* Time evaporates there. If you think you’ll be 2 hours, basically just double it. We had multiple text messages between us saying “1/2 hour more? 1 hour more?”.
* Do you research before-hand of what is top of your hit list, and roughly the RRP. Then grab a centre map and plan your shop visits. This will save you heaps of time and possibly money. Don’t forget that tax is variable and added on at the register.

USA Premium Outlet Centres TinaG 2017

Fragrance Shopping – USA Premium Outlet Centres

Of course I went straight to the fragrance stores. As these are outlets / seconds, the content of the shops varied from place to place. I found the shops such as Perfumania and the Fragrance Outlet very similar to Chemist Warehouse back in Aus. The prices weren’t what I would call a bargain – for example I found Bvlgari Black at $34US, before tax and conversion this is not cheaper than what I can pick it up for at home. One shop (I think Perfumania in Desert Hills) had a whole section dedicated to Paris Hilton fragrances, and a similar display for Britney Spears.

USA Premium Outlet Centres TinaG 2017 a

I did get to try Ivanka Trump’s fragrance which was OK, actually. It was a fruity floral, of course, but it had a coolness about it which I think was brought on by a decent apple accord, keeping the sweetness in check. After I picked this up the sales assistant kept coming over with some horrendous options for me to “try as you might like this”. After the third sniff to be ‘polite’ I had to say no – just – No, you need to stop doing that please! My nose was full of pink gunk smells by that stage and I had to literally run out, much to the SA’s surprise.

USA Premium Outlet Centres TinaG 2017 b

After trying the dedicated fragrance stores I looked at branded stores for fragrances & interest. Barneys and Etro were clothes-only. Aww. I came across a Porche Design store in Desert Hills, which I’d never heard of before. WOW!!!! They’ve got some great gear, the mens shoes were amazing and the handbags sleek and functional. I had a lot of fun chatting with the sales assistant who was beyond helpful, was a great experience and I’m glad I dropped in.

My visit to SoCal did have fragrant leanings but would you believe all I brought home with me were three small samples from Lucky Scent in LA. I think that’s a first. I did get some jeans, jacket, shoes and an iron. But that’s another story.

What about you – do you hit up the fragrance stores hard when you travel, or is it more of a reconnaissance like my US trip?

Till next time,
Tina G xx

32 Venenum by Daphne Bugey for L`Artisan Perfumer 2016

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Portia

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Hey crew,

I was in the city today and stopped by to sniff stuff. I started chatting to a VERY sexy SA in Myer called Louis. Seriously DROP DEAD GORGEOUS! Anyway we chatted about what I should try, I was all blasé, tried everything you have and then he pointed out the L’Artisan prive range. I totally ignored them when they came out but he insisted so…

32 Venenum by L`Artisan Perfumer 2016

32 Venenum by Daphne Bugey

Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords;
Bread, Milk, Chai tea, Ceylonese sandalwood, Rice

Yep, smells good.

Chai? Yes. Milk, Yes. Rice? Maybe? Sandalwood, oH YES!

Should have bought it on the spot. Will now have to go back. Hopefully Louis will be there so I can be the creepy old gay. He doesn’t look outraged though, just chuffed.

 

Three spritzes on my arm and the train ride home was blissful. I’m now at home and still loving its toasty goodness. YUM

Libertine  says this: A new world is opened up. Would it be a forest of sandalwood where rice is steamed while drinking spicy chai or a wide golden field of grains? Venenum awakens memories and souvenirs of India without dwelling upon it. It oscillates between the scent of hot freshly made bread, milky clouds, spicy tea and smooth sandalwood. No matter where Daphné Bugey has decided to make us travel, the sensation is as gentle as it is enveloping. This venin is so flirtatious that it teases.

I do have to tell you though that it does remind me of something I can’t place. I think they’ve used an ingredient that’s also in Aether Methaldone and I am reading it loud and clear.

Further reading: Candy Perfume Boy
Libertine Parfumerie has $299/75ml with FREE Australian Postage
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $3.60/0.5ml

Did you try it yet?
Portia xxx

 

Brit Woman by Nathalie Gracia-Cetto for Burberry 2003

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Portia

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Hello Designer Frag Fans,

Recently Burberry Brit woman has received a bottle facelift. It spurred me to grab one of the older EdP bottles because I have always thought they looked cool and fun. Directly below is the new bottle and yes, I think it’s WAY more finished, luxe and modern but the old one is something I’ve liked for a long time so I prefer to have it in my collection.

I have no idea whether the new bottle points towards a reformulation or if burberry is just bringing the bottle more in line with current trends, and making it look more desirable. Whatever, I’m writing about the juice in the old bottle that you see below.

Brit Woman by Burberry 2003

Brit Woman by Nathalie Gracia-Cetto

Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top:  Iced pear, Italian lime, Green almond
Heart: Sugared almond, White peony
Base: Amber, Mahogany, Vanilla

The pear is just shy of ripe and the lime tar but not mouth puckeringly so. Green almond? Definitely almond but not so green, it’s the smell of cracking an almond shell open to find the delicious, creamy nut beneath. Don’t get me wrong Brit woman is sweet from the outset but it seems like a sweetness contained. Even when the sugared almonds come in it’s not tooth rottingly sweet or a bakery scent. There is a toastedness that keeps Brit interesting, a wetness that gives a fresh edge.

The base is quite pretty, a very comfortable, smooth vanilla. It’s cool, dry, quite austere compared to todays designer offerings and flanked perfectly by almonds and woodsiness. I get soft hints of dried, used coffee grounds too. Maybe it’s my imagination but I get the smell every wear.

Flickr

Who can wear and where would they? Burberry Brit Woman is super comfy. It doesn’t screech, isn’t sickly sweet and has a moderate sillage for the first hour ore so. Once the party is over though the soft warm hum of dry down persists for hours and hours. I see it as a reasonably priced go to for both sexes. Though ostensibly aimed at the women it smells really good on me, and I think Jin could rock it too.

I’ve been wearing it layered with the extrait. I smell really good.

Further reading: Now Smell This
FragranceNet has 50ml/$25
My Perfume Samples has samples starting at $2/ml

Which bottle do you prefer? Have you ever worn Brit?
Portia xx

Fat Electrician by Antoine Maisondieu for Etat Libre d’Orange 2009

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TinaG

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Hi APJ!

Fat Electrician has been such a fun fragrance to try! A friend kindly gave me a sample which was used up oh-too quickly, and to be honest the name of it always reminds me of Portia and Jin – I keep thinking back to Portia’s article a few years ago which made me laugh. Love those guys. So, I’d heard good things about it but hadn’t expected that WOW factor to hit immediately and it was fabulous!

Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Myrrh, Chestnut cream, Olive leaf, Opoponax, Vanilla, Vetiver

Fat Electrician opens dry and woody with a blast of sweetness at the same time, just so weird. I really wasn’t expecting a ‘vetiver’ fragrance to have a gourmand aspect to it but a sticky vanilla definitely shines through. It is horizontally layered and airy, the dryness of the vetiver is all in the sillage but close to my skin the vanilla softly oozes.

After a while the vanilla is joined by a creaminess that I guess is the marron or chestnut, which pushes the vetiver out of the way for prominence. A metallic green note starts to sparkle on my skin. It’s oily and slightly mentholated. I really like the way that this fragrance shifts. It manages to be comforting and quirky at the same time – exactly my kind of thing.

And this is only just in the first half hour. Something funny happens then, in that the metallic note went into blood territory like the smell of mince meat. Metallic and meaty but only in undertones with the vetiver going a bit more feral and funky. It might sound off-putting but it joins the scent bubble as an enhancement not an outlier.

PDI

Did you notice that there are some ambers in the notes? Well they come out around the 3 hour mark bringing with them a dry but cool incense. Myrrh is a favourite of mine, no so much opoponax but they are both in trace but distinct amounts. Even after 6 hours, Fat Electrician has slightly split personality spots on my skin. One place smells woody, another sticky & sweet. It is this variation that keeps me interested.

The three main notes in Fat Electrician are: vetiver, vanilla, myrrh. Interesting features, the oily green + bloody metallics, the way the vetiver goes from dry to dirty, and the juxtaposition between the chewy gourmand notes and bone dry ambers. It’s got a great longevity of 8+ hours but most of the interesting stuff happens in the first hour.

PDI

Further reading: Australian Perfume Junkies and EauMG
LuckyScent has $90/50ml and Samples

What a great perfume!

Have you tried Fat Electrician before? What do you think?

Till next time,

Tina G

You Or Someone Like You by Chandler Burr + Etat Libre d’Orange 2017

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Portia

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Hey Crew,

I got home from my holiday to find a box awaiting pick up. I had no idea who the sender was but guessed it was fragrant in nature. There were also a couple of messages in my email inbox from Chandler Burr. That’s kind of unusual because he has been holding radio silence lately. So when I opened them and saw that he has creative directed a fragrance with the kooky crew from ELdO I was immediately on high alert.

Based on the heroine of his book You Or Someone Like You, a rollicking read that I found provocative, informative and unpretentious. The ad copy is just as provocative but lacks information thus presenting itself as audaciously pretentious. From the Press release: I find that the smells mesmerize. Astringent mint/green of eucalyptus, wild jasmine from vines climbing the stop signs, catalyzed car exhaust, hot California sunlight on ocean water (although “You” contains no jasmine, eucalyptus, car exhaust; if you need to know what it’s made of, “You” is not for you).
When Etat Libre d’Orange approached me about creative directing, my perfumer Caroline Sabas and I created not a “perfume” — people in Los Angeles don’t wear perfume – but a specific scent, the scent someone like Anne would wear, this woman high in the Hollywood hills, imported like the palms into this blue air.

Nevertheless, if head-up-your-ass ad-copy was a problem for me I’d definitely not be loving the perfume industry as much as I do. So I took all of that with a grain of salt and went to the box.

You Or Someone Like You by Etat Libre d’Orange 2017

You Or Someone Like You by Caroline Sabas

So, though the idea is to wear this scent experientially, I know you want to know what it smells like. Sharp herbaceous green opens. Like a tart unripe orange and grapefruit with the green of basil, cardamom and grass. Mint! There is a minty note running through too. There is no note list so I’m guessing here, we’ll all have a good laugh at my guesses when the note list is revealed. There is an awkward creamy note that is disturbing and alluring, like matcha tea.

Not long in and a spiky green that really does seem like eucalyptus comes through and suddenly I’m transported to bush walks through the Australian Mallee Scrub with the Cadets as a boy. Also we had a Wildflower Park and National Park not too far from where we grew up and we would picnic in them as a family.

I like that ELdO have allowed this slightly freaky niche fragrance to be born. The first couple of hours You Or Someone Like You doesn’t sit quietly and comfortably but there is always a lightly curdled feeling running through. Later in the development there feels like definite references to the LA air seen and smelled from the pinnacle of the Hollywood Hills. There is also the warmth and cool of lying in the sun with a foot or hand draped into the pool.

Dry down is a soft focus creamy-mint with a shitload of white musks, nothing particularly distinctive but it smells nice enough and hums away in the background for hours.

Further reading: Colognoisseur and Scents Memory
LuckyScent
has it from $52/30ml + Samples

Then there is the final question. “Is it art Chandler?”

Does this read like something you’d try?
Portia xx