Youth Dew Amber Nude by Christophe Ludamiel for Estée Lauder 2005

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Guest Post by Tim

Estée Lauder

Youth Dew Amber Nude

Hello Australian Perfume Junkies,

Back in my days as a Beauty Advisor and Resident Makeup Artist at Estée Lauder, Myer Sydney City there was an extensive line of fragrances on the counter.  I wanted to know them personally, to wear and experience the releases Estée Lauder gave the world. Decade after decade, a historical time line of fragrances show casing perfumery styles.  It was the trend setters vs the best sellers. The name sake Estée and a whole Private Collection.  6 Men’s fragrances and a swag of flankers. It was my job to wear, recommend and sell fragrances to the customers of Estée Lauder.

Photo Stolen imagesdeparfums

I was completely spoiled for choice!  I started with the ground breaking and historic vintage classic Youth Dew, which was originally conceived as a bath oil in 1953, then quickly fell in love with the 1969 animalic leather stunner Azuree.  I admired the ultra feminine aldehydic florals Alliage and Beautiful and to be totally honest I only fell in lust with naughties starlet Pleasures.  You should have seen the number of Pleasures flanker Christmas gifts packs I had to count one afternoon in the store room of late October 2010. ‘Ridiculous’

In 2005 Tom Ford lent his talents to recreating the first fragrance that pushed Lauder into the stratosphere she orbits today. Sending in a man to reinvent a woman’s work, how would he pay homage to Youth Dew. Could he produce a perfume variation even Estée herself would be proud of?  It sounded risky and bold, but on the other hand a genius idea to give the old girl a dressing up by Ford, adding modern nuances and flavour while honoring its heritage.

Photo Stolen parfumes4u

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Magnolia, ginger, cinnamon, tea, grapefruit
Heart: Carnation, jasmine, ylang-ylang, black rose
Base: Sandalwood, amber, patchouli, vetiver.

Opening
From the very onset it is clear Amber Nude has Youth Dew graciously riding shotgun! Like a conscious voice in your mind it still has that famous recognisable balsamic undertone. Youth Dew Amber Nude is amped up with a boozy and brash opening. A giant rum soaked sucker punch that is entirely intoxicating, causing me to inhale as much of the bright citrus top notes as possible.  Its a muddled cocktail that is just too divine to sip. Waxy lemon tinged magnolia, tangy sweet grapefruit and cinnamon spice create a superb introduction that marries old with new! Tea is also included but I think the pot has been spiked! hmm?

Heart
Its not until you live through the opening and get settled that you realise Amber Nude is in fact from a totally different gene pool to the Youth Dew mile trailing sillage monster. Clove-ish Red Carnation and narcotic Jasmine replace orchid, lilly of the valley and cassia (earthy, spicy, aromatic cinnamon).  To my nose the tweaking of Youth Dew Amber Nude has added beautiful softness that was absent in the original, giving it modern refinement. Where there once was hefty tumbler of pure malt whisky now sits black rose and rich banana toned ylang ylang that harmonise with the floral bouquet. Compliments guaranteed!

Dry Down
Amber Nude’s dries down to base notes sandalwood, patchouli and vetiver and ‘the concentration has been halved’ (quote) according to Ford.  Genius if you ask me.  I felt Youth Dew was sometimes too much of a good thing.  Absolutely a iconic fragrance I wanted to wear out of love, respect and honour but it just demanded too much attention.  And then there’s that classic association, I won’t even breath it.  Here is a fact Perfume Junkies!  Youth Dew’s reputation spans almost 60 years.  Its clear we have another Queen celebrating a Diamond Jubilee.  Tom Ford lastly adds a dark chocolate accord that recalls bitter dark squares of 80% cocoa.  A noticeable skin scent that lingers on the skin up to 10 hours after the first spritz.

Photo stolen Elle

Did I mention Youth Dew Amber Nude is sexy as hell.  I have decided the Amber Nude experience is the best of Youth Dew with a Tom Ford frock and accessories to match.  Vintage Retro is now runway ready.

Further reading Bois de Jasmin and Perfume Smellin’ Things
Fragrance Shop has 50ml @ $62
The Posh Peasant starts Youth Dew Amber Nude at $3/ml

Fragrant Regards,
Tim

34 thoughts on “Youth Dew Amber Nude by Christophe Ludamiel for Estée Lauder 2005”

    • Thankyou for having me in your wonderful fragrant perfume palace ! It was such a pleasure and a valuable learning experience to word out my feeling on this fragrance and recall my glory days as a squirt bitch !

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    • Hi Mark , thanks for stopping by ! I am chuffed to hear its your no 1. It truly is a special fragrance , and it really did send Estée on her way to global beauty domination ! You simply must have Amber Nude as its a great alternative and the bottle is beautiful especially the 30 ml ! And your friend has great taste , see u next time !
      Tim 🙂

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    • Hi Mate , it’s a pleasure to return the favour as I read your blog and see your comments on NST ! I think it is wonderful to have such great male opinions on fragrance , I hope your new studies are off to a good start !
      Tim

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      • Aww… you read my blog? So nice to know that. NST is great community too!

        I’m having a good start but to make it clear, it’s not that I started new studies. I started the continuation on 2nd degree after earning 1st degree before summer

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  4. Your review made me realize how much I miss the “good ol’ days” of randomly sniffing my way through the local department store perfume testers – I would have encountered Youth Dew Amber Nude, and probably liked it.

    Beautifully written review, Tim! I must make a special trip to the mall just to try this perfume. It sounds lovely : )

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    • Wow ! Thankyou for that positive feed back , I’m glad u enjoyed it !
      Yes the department store can be a great place to huff and learn your way around ! It was great to get some industry experience and learn about a company and it’s products ! Keep your eyes out at fragrance shops as its not on the counters any more , shame really but it is easily found on line ! It really is the best of Youth Dew but toned down and modernized ! Happy huffing
      Tim x

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  5. What a great review, Tim! I really enjoyed reading your observations (and agree that sometimes Youth Dew “demand(s) too much attention”). Definitely will search out YD Amber Nude now.

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    • Taffy J , no problem ! I hold this fragrance in high esteem ! It’s a keep sake from my days on counter and I respect it for it iconic story ! I love to mix a few drops of the original bath oil into my body butter and use it as a body lotion scent ! You would not believe the amount of comments I get ! The cream really cuts through the sillage, in turn the oil presents marvelous fragrance power ! Heavenly scented .
      Thanks for taking the time to comment
      Tim

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  6. Thanks Tim! I was a little scared of YD before, and never tried it (I thought it would be cloying and…uhm…frompy). Now I shall spray it next time I enter the Lauder counter. Spiked tea pot and sexy as hell. Tadaaa!

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    • Some times it’s good to be a little afraid ! The pay off is better when u realize there was nothing to be afraid of ! The original Youth Dew is mega strong , hence the reputation! If u like it but find it to over powering then Amber Nude has your name on it ! I hope u can huff it soon ! Also …. Try the oil ! (youth dew) it wears closer to the skin and Devine in the bath tub !
      See u soon
      Tim 😉

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  7. Hi Tim! Congratulations on your first post! You did it! 🙂

    I’m not sure I’ve ever tried the original Youth Dew and I’m sure it’s the first time I hear about that flanker. If I ever come across it, I’ll give it a sniff.

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    • Thankyou Undina, the good news is Youth Dew is very accessible, give it a huff some time! It’s even better in the oil , I get motor oil and cola and some how it just smells like it came from another planet ! I think Amber Nude had a blink and you will miss it shelf life , but hey they say good things never last , thank the fragrant gods for online discounters! Hope u are having a great day !
      Tim

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    • Yeah another Fan of YDAN ! Here is what u should do Poodle! Next time when it time to treat ones self to a fragrant gift order a little 30 ml bottle !! Its one of those fragrances you get a craving for and then your satisfied till the next itch ! There is a bottle for you just waiting for a home ,
      Thankyou for leaving me a comment:)

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  9. Thanks for the review Tim, Amber Nude definitely seems interesting. If only it were more accessible. I remember smelling the original Youth Dew thinking that it was the Tom Ford re-creation. That was when I understood what the fuss over civet is all about! Talk about skanky.

    I’m also interested to hear your thoughts on Beyond Paradise for Men. Having only vague memories about it sniffing it years ago, I recently purchased it online after reading Turin’s glowing review. But…am I missing something there?

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    • Hi mate , yes I also wish it was more accessible , I’m ready for another bottle and I’m over paying shipping costs to Oz !
      When I worked on the EL counter there was a tester of BPfM but never any stock so it was not on my play list so to say ! I did sprits it from time to time and I found it pleasent , fruity and aquatic ! Both the men’s and female version has essence of Eden which was collected from the roof of a green house called Eden where they grew rare and exotic plants ! Super cool ! It is called the Eden project. Another SA (female) said her husband wore it and she used words like sexy and amazing to describe it ! I did not how ever get to know it personally to form a real understanding of its notes and phases ! I do love the bottle , the only male frag I fell in love with was Lauder for men ! Still available in countries!
      Thanks for starting a conversation Jenson! See u next post
      Tim

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    • Different strokes for different folks ! Isn’t it wonderful the amount of fragrance there is in the world ! There really is something for every one . Stay tuned for another guest post and chances are we will be loving it in perfect harmony ! Thankyou for reading and giving a honest comment , 😉
      Tim

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  11. Welcome to APJ, Tim, and a great first post. I gave YDAN a whirl when I first tumbled down the rabbit hole because of its 4-star rating in the guide, but found it far too strong at the time. However, knowing how tastes change, if I run into it again, I’m willing to give it another go. So many fragrances, so little time….

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    • Good morning Dionne, I agree YDAN is strong , just the way I like them . Thankyou for the warm welcome,
      As for your final quote, totally agree 🙂 there are so many fragrances ! I’m sure if I didn’t have a history with the company and think Tom Ford is a dirty big spunk it would have slipped under my radar ! I’m glad it didn’t thou . Stay fragrant

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    • Hi Tammy , pleased to meet you ! I truly hope you enjoy Amber Nude. I must admit I am a bit of an advocate for this fragrance, and I always enjoy telling people I’m wearing it as it breaks the Youth Dew mold ! I am busy preparing my next review so be sure to stay tuned as there will be more great reviewing to come ! Thankyou for commenting, I appreciate it very much, see u next month Tammy
      Tim

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  13. This is one that I was sorry to miss (it was next to impossible to find, for some reason, after it first launched), so thank you for bringing it back to mind. And, welcome to the APJs!

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    • Natalie! It’s a pleasure , thanks for the warm welcome. It’s so great to be in such fantastic company. I understand where u are coming from but there are still bottles to be had a good value! Put it on the wish list and perhaps treat yourself when the weather gets a little cooler, it’s well suited for the colder months! It’s almost like getting a postcard from an old friend isn’t it !a blast from the past, and time passes so quickly these days. I’m glad I refreshed your memory and thankyou for sparing some time to read my review,
      Warm regards
      Tim

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  14. Welcome to APJ. What a great review. I find myself wanting a bottle of this and a TF frock to go with it, now. If only…

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    • Sister !!! Holla , I hear you. Nobody does sexy like Mr Ford, totally not in this life time Unfortunatly. I wouldn’t even spring for a pair of his shades, waaaay to pricey for me ! But hey , it’s free to dream right !
      APJ really does have the friendliest followers, and we all share a passion for beautiful fragrance ! Yeah to us ,
      I will be back very soon 🙂
      Tim

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  15. I wouldn’t have given YDAN a moment’s thought, save for this review. Now…now I….damn you Mark! Now I have to go to a (gasp!) DEPARTMENT STORE to try it. (ask Portia where I live – that’ll explain the ‘gasp!’)

    Welcome to APJ! xoxoxoA

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  16. Ooop! sorry. I meant ‘damn you, TIM!’. It’s still early in Illinois, USof freakin’ A – and I looked down at a list of customer calls – Mark ___ is first on the list. Again, apologies. And welcome to APJ, TIM!!! xoxo

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    • No problem ( blame it on the alderhydes ) thanks for the welcome , looks as thou the darling Portia has you covered, I hope you enjoy it ! Appologie accepted x
      I will be back with my next post very soon .
      Mark 😉 lol

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