Muguet Fleuri by Oriza L. Legrand 2014

Hi there Happy Huffers,

Early in 2014 Michael B and I went and visited Hugo and Franck of Oriza L Legrand at their 18 Rue Saint-Augustin, Paris store. We had an excellent time going through their collection with them, having some laughs and I purchased some soaps and a bottle of Jardin d’Armide. The space is gorgeous and chock full of fabulous fragrant delights. Soaps, candles and fine fragrance. Did you know that Oriza L Legrand patented the idea of solid perfume?

Hugo is named as perfumer on Basenotes but I think he is a curator, overseeing the creation process. I may be wrong but that was my impression.

Muguet Fleuri by Hugo Lambert for Oriza L. Legrand 2014

Muguet Fleuri Oriza L. Legrand FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Green leaves, grass, lily-of-the-valley
Heart : Galbanum, angelica, violet leaf, lily-of-the-valley
Base: Lily-of-the-valley, oakmoss, lily

Firstly, what welcome relief, a new niche house that is affordable. Bravo to the boys that they’ve managed to recreate this beautiful old fragrance house and keep their prices down to a very reasonable level. I, and my wallet, thank you boys.

I love the wetness, the cooling and calming feeling of a Lily of the Valley fragrance, dewy and air conditioned. The opening so often feels slightly plastic to me, so perfect as to be unreal if you know what I mean? Cool and slightly mentholated, of grass I get nothing but I get the impression of squeezing the juice our of Aloe Vera plants, that soft, fresh, ultra green oiliness that smells like it could cool the world. Flore by Carolina Herrera has a very similar Lily of the Valley note but in Muguet Fleuri I find it subtle and refreshing, the angelica keeps everything soft focus green and of galbanum my skin throws it as a very background player here, a presence that helps lift and frame the Lily of the Valley.

Muguet Fleuri Oriza L. Legrand Lily_of_the_valley WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

It’s excellent to me how they keep the focus so firmly on Lily of the Valley in Muguet Fleuri, one of my favourites in the Lily of the Valley lineup is Muguet de Bois by Coty (yes, I know it’s a shriveled, castrated, bastardised version of itself currently but I still like and wear it), I love the way that Oriza L Legrand makes the scent feel luxurious and refined while creating a thick and luscious fragrance that has a very nice silage for the first hour or so. Fairly linear througfhout its life, there are slight increments of difference and a gradual earthing of the scent towards the end.

Muguet Fleuri Oriza L. Legrand Lily_of_the_valley pots DailyMailUKPhoto Stolen DailyMailUK

If you often, or even sometimes, wish for a fragrance as true to cut Lily of the Valley stems from the florist as possible but still interesting and beautiful then I would send you immediately to try Muguet Fleuri. It does last but only the first two hours are super fragrant, then it hums along quietly as a wash. I find Muguet Fleuri serene, calm, cool and dewy: everything you’d hope for in a fragrance about Lily of the Valley.

Further reading: The Smelly Vagabond and Kafkaesque
First In Fragrance has 90/100ml
Oriza L Legrand has a 20/7 x 2ml Sample Set (delivered worldwide)

Are you a Lily of the Valley fan? Do you have a favourite?
Portia xx

Ira Glass on the Creative Process

Here is something that resonated so strongly with me. Really leapt into my head and heart in an AHA moment so real and physical that it was like being struck by lightning. SHIT! Of course that’s how the creative process works, as if it could be any other way. It’s the percolation of success and failure that can only happen over time, with repeating the processes so regularly that they become you. Creation, in my case, needs craft and art so when someone speaks to me of the way that I need to continue, to create and create and create to reach the creation that I will be happy with is to see my life put into a two minute video, condensed to a microcosm and it makes it look like I have unwittingly stumbled across my secret plan. So secret even I was blissfully unaware that I had one.

Ira_Glass_CMU_2006Photo Stolen Wikipedia

Sorry to bore you with my ramble, watch the video. It probably won’t blow your mind like it did mine but it’s a worthwhile skerrick of information to have anyway.

Portia xx

Ira Glass on the Creative Process

Gabriella’s 2015 Top 5 Scented Beauty Products

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Post by Gabriella

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Hello perfumed peeps!

Today’s post was inspired by one of my beauty gurus, Sali Hughes. Sali is not only a beauty journalist (who writes a no-nonsense column in The Guardian and has her own blog, but she’s also a self-confessed perfumista like the rest of us) On a recent blog visit, I came upon her post on cheap smells – beauty products that we use day in, day out, like shampoo and soap, that smell fabulous to boot.

So I got thinking about the smelly beauty things I use every day that give me as much olfactory pleasure as a good whack of fine fragrance. To add more impetus to my inspiration, a friend on Facebook the other day asked about great smelling shampoos and conditioners to use and suddenly, the idea for this post was all set. So, I present to you:

Gabriella’s 2015 Top 5 Scented Beauty Products

creme de coco masque Bumble and bumblePhoto Stolen Bumble and bumble

1. Bumble and bumble Crème de Coco Masque:

Now, I do love a tropical beachy scent and especially adore the scent of coconuts, but often in perfume, the result can be a sweet and cloying mess. This beautiful mask completely captures a day at the beach, suntan lotion in hand without all the saccharine added. I especially love to put it on as an overnight mask and have sweet dreams about rolling waves, sand in my toes and Pina Coladas at sunset.

Crème de Coco Masque is available from Mecca Cosmetica $38 and Bumble and bumble online from $28/150ml

Crabtree & Evelyn Rosewater Glycerine Soap LookFantasticPhoto Stolen LookFantastic

2. Crabtree and Evelyn Rosewater and Glycerin soap

When I was growing up in Australia in the 1980s, there wasn’t much available in the way of scented bath and body products besides the regular Palmolive and Nivea from the supermarket. Crabtree and Evelyn quickly established itself as the cult niche-y brand du jour before the onslaught of Jo Malone et al. I used to love visiting and exploring the bathroom of my Mum and Dad’s well-heeled friend that was full of the gorgeously scented, prettily wrapped products. This soap, however, was the standout to me, a pretty, demure soft green English rose scent all wrapped up in a lovely raspberry candy-coloured translucent bar.

Rosewater and Glycerin soap is available from Look Fantastic (delivery worldwide) GBP £6

Clairol Final Net Hairspray PricelinePhoto Stolen Priceline

3. Clairol Final Net Hairspray

Now, I’ve been getting my hair highlighted since I first escaped the confines of my school uniform and it’s the one indulgent thing I’ve kept up and saved for, whatever my financial circumstances. While I’ve since largely moved on to the much coveted Elnett hairspray, a whiff of Final Net and its slightly tacky chypre-eqsue smell will always take me back to those exciting times when going to the hairdresser was a real treat and I felt like a real blonde bombshell.

Final Net is available from Priceline from $4.75/50g

Cutex Nourishing Nail Polish Remover PricelinePhoto Stolen Priceline

4. Cutex Nourishing Nail Polish Remover

I’m a weird one that would much rather indulge in doing my own nails than get a professional job, so the slight acrid whiff of nail polish remover has been a part of my weekly or fortnightly at-home ritual. While I’m also weird in that I love the smell of remover in general, Cutex Nourishing beats them all. It’s a lovely soft vanilla-y scent which manages to really dial down of the harshness of the acetone, plus it actually gets off all nail polish with one quick swipe.

Cutex Nourishing Nail Polish Remover is available at Priceline $3.83 (with promotion) and pharmacies worldwide.

Embyolisse Lait Crème Concentré cultBeautyPhoto Stolen CultBeauty

5. Embyolisse Lait Crème Concentré

This is a cult moisturiser for many beauty bloggers and fashion magazines and it’s not hard to see why. It’s a great all-purpose moisturiser that works beautifully under makeup and doesn’t cost a bomb. But the icing on the cake for me is the subtle, sublime scent. It’s a green vintage-y floral that is a little like Anais Anais and just has this elegant je ne sais quoi vibe. Whilst the scent fades really quickly, it’s a real treat to look forward to on those days you can’t be bothered getting out of bed.

Lait Crème Concentré is available at Adore Beauty, $35 and Cult Beauty(ships worldwide), GBP £20

So, what are your favourite everyday scented beauty products or scented cheap thrills?

With much love till next time!
M x

Minimising Stress and Freak-Outs with Scent

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Post by Suzanne R Banks

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Hi there APJ,

If you are feeling stressed, anxious, or unable to cope as well as you usually do, then scent can help you. It is worth noting though, that if you are stressed, it can be really difficult to garner the energy to help yourself – even just a little bit.

Stress Ash Photoholic FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Minimising Stress and Freak-Outs with Scent

In this case I still definitely recommend the use of essential oils, as their healing power is unstoppable, so to invite you to heal yourself, it’s best to use the easy methods which are:

1. Open The Bottle and Take a Huge Whiff

Self explanatory and easy! This may be enough to change your focus (even slightly), and hopefully help you to feel a bit better about things. This method is especially good if you are really freaking out.

2. Put A few Drops Of Oil into the bottom of the Shower

This works in a similar way to just taking a whiff straight from the bottle, but if you’ve got an extra minute, it will give you a completely different experience. Your whole body will be immersed in an essential oil steam. Energetically this will cleanse your aura and have a positive effect on your mind and emotions. Just cover the drain with a cloth or your foot for a couple of minutes, and breathe in the medicinal goodness.

3. Sample

Put a couple of drops onto a scarf, handkerchief or cotton pad and take it with you, or tuck it into your pocket, or your bra. The scent of the oil will help support you through the day, people will comment on how lovely the scent is (then you’ll feel slightly better about life in general), the energetic presence of the oil will bring a sense of calm, and it’s really easy too!

Others Stress SlowTechPhoto Stolen SlowTech

Minimising Stress and Freak-Outs of Others with Scent

If you can help a friend or a partner who is stressing or freaking out, you could employ these methods which are easy for you, but could be monumentally hard for your friend at a time of stress and unrest.Something this simple can help begin the turning around.

1. Nourishing body oil blend

Usually I say “For a coat of your body use 3 teaspoons of carrier oil in a little dish and, add 7 – 8 drops of essential oil. It’s always best to patch test first, before you apply all over.” But you could make this little blend and massage someone’s hands or feet to help them chill out.

***** Always put the drops of essential oil into the bottle or dish first, then add the carrier oil. It gives the scents time to create a synergistic fusion.

For a 50ml bottle of oil add 25 drops and see my articles “Ratios for Blending Essential Oils – A Reminder of the Basics” and “Aromatherapy – It’s Easy as 1 2 3”

2. Scent Their Space

Use 25 drops of oil In a traditional oil burner with a candle, or a diffuser, in your friend’s personal space to help them feel more comfortable. It is easy for you, but could be too much for them at this moment.
A drop of oil can be essential

A drop of oil can be essential

Which oils?

Bergamot – calm, relieve mild anxiety

Chamomile – calming, soothing, medicinal

Cinnamon – sweetness, love what you do for work

Fennel – be kind to yourself

Frankincense – breathe deeply and relax

Geranium – cheery, helps improve downward spiraling moods

Lavender – calm, solidarity and strength

Lemon – gentle, refreshing

Marjoram – grief, emotional pain relief

Rose – Queen of oils to help with all stress issues

Rosewood – flow of love in the heart centre

Vetiver – absolute grounding, cooling to the hot emotions, stops kid’s tantrums

Ylang Ylang – release anger and frustation

 

…. and really, any oil that you love and can help you (or your friend) out.

Good luck.

Best wishes.

PEACE.

Remember to treat yourself first, then everyone will benefit.

Suzanne R Banks xx

Suzanne R Banks Blog
Suzanne R Banks Aromatherapy
Suzanne R Banks FaceBook

(Ed: CONGRATULATIONS to Suzanne whole blog Suzanne R Banks just hit 150,000 views. Nice one my friend. XXX)

copyright suzanne

 

Revelation! My new book out now

Please check out my new book REVELATION! – Reveal Your Destiny with Essential Oils

Amazon USA      Amazon AU      Amazon UK

Here and Now: Tamara Dean: Special Event Announcement

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Post by Portia & Ainslie Walker

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Here and Now: Tamara Dean: Special Event Announcement

An Immersive Experience
Viewing: February 5-7 by registration HERE<<JUMP
Address released 24 hours prior

Opening Night February 4 2015 6-8pm Fully Booked

Tamara Dean, Email Invitation to Here and Now, 4th Feb

Award winning artist and photographer Tamara Dean’s Here and Now Exhibition opens on 4th Feb and is already booked out for the opening night.
There are still places on Thursday and Saturday bu you must register quick.
APJs Ainslie Walker has scented the exhibition, collaborating with Tamara Dean for this fully immersive exhibition and says the experience “involves getting lost, at one with your primordial senses heightened”

here and now juice

Artist bio: Tamara Dean is an Australian artist whose practice explores the relationship between humans and the natural world. In 2013 she was selected for the ArtOmi International Artists Residency, New York. Works produced during this residency won first prize in the 2013 New York Photo Awards – Fine Art series category. Dean’s works have been widely exhibited both nationally and internationally.

Her work has featured in the Hamptons Art Fair, NYC, 2014, Melbourne Art Fair, 2014, Fotofever Brussels Art Fair, 2012 and Pingyao Photography Festival, China, 2012 as well as at leading Australian galleries including Inheritance 2009 and Hijacked 2 – New Australian & German Photography 2010, both at the Australian Centre for Photography; Sydney Now – New Australian Photojournalism, Museum of Sydney 2007; Terra Australis Incognita at Monash Gallery of Art.
Dean is currently Artist-in-Residence at UNSW and is represented by Olsen Irwin Gallery, Sydney and JHB Gallery, New York.

Here-and-Now 2015 copyright Tamara Dean

The Sydney Perfume lovers Meet up group, run by Catherine du Peloux Menagé are gathering their forces and attending the exhibition on Thursday evening 5.2.14. They will be privy to a special talk by Ainslie and Tamara and a keepsake of the evening to take home.

Catherine from the Sydney Perfume Lovers Meetup says:
“The artist Tamara Dean has collaborated with one of our members, the talented Ainslie Walker, to create an innovative art installation ‘Here and now’. Our senses will be heightened (including the sense our group is all about, naturally) as we take in the artwork and each one of us will have a different perspective. To say more would be to detract from the evening so you’ll just have to come along to be part of it.
We’ll experience the installation one person at a time, then Tamara and Ainslie will talk to us about the inspiration and ideas behind the installation, as well as the process of creation, over a drink . ‘Here and now’ will take place in the Kensington area of Sydney. The exact location has not yet been disclosed (not even to me!) and I will let you know the address by email nearer the time.
You will take away a special gift which will remind of your experience of the evening by stimulating your limbic system in a unique way. Intrigued? See you there. “

samplers

If you prefer to come at a different time or with your friends register with the details below:

REGISTER: Here and Now 2015

1725 Casanova by Magali Senequier and Gérald Ghislain for Histoires de Parfums 2001

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Post by TinaG

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So, who is Casanova? If you follow the story in this scent, Casanova doesn’t stand out in a crowd. He’s the type of person you’d easily walk past in the street and not notice directly. But he knows himself – he is cool, calm, and confident. Dressed immaculately, the quality material of his suit and shirt shows that he has a refined taste and attention to detail. But it’s more than that. He has a subtle charisma which is alluring – once noticed. And he knows it. Catch his eye, and you’ll find a deep, challenging sparkle which you’ve taken a few steps towards involuntarily, drawn in like a house mouse to candy.

1725 Casanova by Histoires de Parfums 2001

1725 Casanova by Magali Senequier and Gérald Ghislain

1725 Casanova Histoires de Parfums FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, citruses, grapefruit, licorice
Heart: Lavender, star anise
Base: Vanilla, almond, sandalwood, cedar, amber

1725 Casanova opens with lavender and multi-citrus top notes, primarily smoky bergamot and grapefruit, with a fleeting touch of amber. After 15 minutes a dark green, moist, sticky liquorice joins the lavender. The impression I get from the liquorice is that of a thick glossy black stick which has been snapped in half exposing the softer centre.

The oily fresh lavender mingles with the liquorice and lifts it up, preventing it from being too overpowering. At half an hour an almond comes through – thankfully only lasting to the hour mark before it subsides back to lavender/liquorice, and the bergamot which has lost its smokiness and become much more orange in nature.

1725 Casanova Histoires de Parfums  MCAD Library FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

The fragrance has an air of alcohol about it, which I can’t quite place until I realise it is just like basic aftershave. The absence of any herbaceous notes in 1725 brings a grey, austere effect to the fragrance. The effect is a smoothness of a well-cut good quality men’s suit. There is an almost transparent cedar in the background, which gives an anthropogenic slant to the scent. The cedar is refined, dead, cut and shaved into a cupboard or a set of draws in a room, almost undetectable but providing a sense of presence to the room.

I originally felt that 1725 had a longevity of around 5 hours, but I realised later that after that time the remaining skin scent sticks around for about 12 hours. This base still contains the lavender but gains vanilla. The combination of vanilla and lavender in the dry down has an oddly gourmand feel to it. So, overall, this feels like a relatively ordinary scent. But who ever said ordinary can’t be interesting? I wore this on a warm summers day, respritzed quite a few times, and the combination of lavender, bit of dust and residual oils from my skin created a clean muskiness that neither my skin nor the fragrance alone would have shown.

 1725 Casanova Histoires de Parfums man_in_bar WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

Casanova is the man you’ll find standing quietly at a bar, watching a group of young men acting up and playing the fool to try and get the attention of a group of young women. He doesn’t need to do anything – just smiles and watches whilst stirring the ice in his drink. Slowly, one of the women notices him, and starts watching back. And another. Who is this silent stranger? They move over to chat. Eventually, the group of guys have given up, and Casanova is still standing at the end of the bar, which is now lined with ladies all talking quietly, sipping on their own drinks, and waiting for their chance to get closer to him…

Further reading: Chemist in a Bottle and Olfactoria’s Travels
Parfum1 has $36/15ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $5/ml

Have you tried 1725 Casanova by Histoires de Parfums? Is it on your list?

Tina G xx

Rosa sur Reuse by Liz Zorn for SOIVOHLE 2012

Heya Perfume Junkies,

SOIVOHLE (pronounced See-Voh) is an acronym for Sending Out Inspired Vibrations Of Healthy Loving Energy. What an amazing place to start for a fragrance house! Liz Zorn, the nose and also a famous American artist brings a joyful, light filled exuberance to fragrance and being an independent has less regulation than the big boys. Translated, that means when Liz says there is oakmoss in her creation you are getting the good stuff. Many of her fragrances have an old school feel simply because she can use ingredients not seen in fragrance this decade in the retail chains.

Liz is selling off the Mixed Media section of the fragrance business and is going to concentrate on the naturals. I wrote recently about her Alpha Musc and how I was ordering back ups of my two special favourites Rosa sur Reuse and Jasmine Summer. Really I do not want to live without them so I now have an EXTRA backup of Rosa sur Reuse, and the prices are so cheap!!

Rosa sur Reuse by Liz Zorn for SOIVOHLE 2012

Rosa Sur Reuse SoivohlePhoto Stolen SOIVOHLE

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Tuberose, red rose, red berries, parma violet, jasmine, lily, lilac, orchid, oakmoss, vanilla, woody notes, musk

So I write about Rosa sur Reuse fairly regularly on the facebook fragrance boards (Aussie Fragrance Network (Aus) or Facebook Fragrance Friends (USA) are good ones) but haven’t reviewed it on APJ. I don’t know why but I thought I had done a review here…..

We have planted some lovely spicy and jammy smelling small floribunda yellow roses on mum’s grave that seem to need zero care to put forth enormous stems of flowers throughout the season. The brilliant flowers in front are everlasting silk ones that my Aunty changes every season but you can see the sprays growing up the back filled with rosebuds. We were the first at the cemetery to ask if we could plant a garden in mum’s grave in 2001 and since then it has become a bit of a thing. The newer graves all look so bright and lovely and though we would visit Mum regularly anyway it does give us an extra reason and a thing to do while we are there. I must look like a complete MADster doing the gardening, watering, burning incense and Hell Bank Notes and quietly chatting to my Mum the whole time.

Mum's Grave January 2015

Strawberry sweetness like a strawberry cola over a beautiful big jammy rose

The sweetness that opens is the most luscious stylisation of roses ever. Though it’s so much more than a rose smell, that kind of makes Rosa sur Reuse even more photo-realistic. You know when you are smelling roses in the garden? Even roses on the same bush at different times in their bloom or throughout the day will have quite distinctly different fragrances. So in my mind it says, “Maybe there is a moment when a real life rose smells EXACTLY like this.” Intoxicating and beautiful there is no mistaking that you’re wearing a perfume, even one spritz of this EdT is a dense scent, of course when I’m home I give it 2 on the chest and one on each wrist and then I am a WALL OF ROSES! Maybe this is what it smelled like in Sleeping Beauty’s enclosure?

The sleeping beauty (1921) oil on canvas 91.4 x 111.8 cmPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

After the initial fireworks burn off, around the one hour mark, I get a green-ness that speaks to me of fresh cut rose vegetation and maybe even the woody green scent of stem too. It bolsters the fruity rose and gives a new dimension to Rosa sur Reuse. As we head towards dry down, the woods and vanilla move in to replace the fruit with a soft focus warmth but my skin never lets me lose sight of the fact that this is first and foremost a rose soliflore. I get 5-7 hours of wear depending on the day and Rosa sur Reuse stays heavily fragrant until during its last hour it fades to nothing.

SOIVOHLE still has loads of the Clearance Sale items left and you can get 11ml of Rosa sur Reuse for $12.50! While you’re there check out Liz’s other magnificent stuff aty drop dead gorgeous prices.

Portia xx

 

Australian Jasmine Awards to be DISCONTINUED

NEWS to hand this week. A very sad day for Australian Fragrance Journalism. We are so glad that our very own Ainslie Walker is a Jasmine Award Winner and hoped that some others in the crew could claim like status. Maybe we should start our own Awards APJ, what do you think?
Portia xx

Australian Jasmine Awards to be DISCONTINUED

PRESS RELEASE

January 2015

JASMINE AWARDS TO BE DISCONTINUED

After 10 years of recognising Excellence in Journalism about Fragrance, a decision has been made to discontinue the Australian Jasmine Awards.

Over the past decade, the Jasmine Awards have recognised very creative and distinctive fragrance features and articles from some of the Industry’s most respected journalists. While highly supported in years gone by, changes in the media landscape obligate a new direction
and a refreshed approach to fragrance communication strategies.

Ainslie Walker Jasmine Award 2014#4 cover

Ainslie Walker Jasmine Award 2014#1

The Australian Fragrance industry would like to thank all the former entrants and generous sponsors for their support and contribution to the success of the Jasmine Awards over many years. The industry will continue to work very actively and directly with the Beauty Media and Supporters from print, online and social media, as it always has, to promote the wonderful world of fragrance
and its unique properties for consumers.

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