Laya by Ne’Emah 2012 + Photo Essay

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Post by Ainslie Walker

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Winter in Australia is drawing to an end. Spring is around the corner. I have already spotted magnolias, wattle, violets, jonquils and blossoms in bloom. This week it snowed in my hometown, prompting me to take some photographs of some of my favorite fragrances of winter 2015 and reflect on the season. I felt sentimental sifting through my collection, making sure I will take a moment to wear any heftier opulent scents before the hot weather arrives. I unearthed a few I had forgotten completely and one I wore loads in autumn then discarded without a mention:

Laya by Ne’Emah For Fragrance & Oudh 2012

Laya by Mohammad Ne’Emah

Laya Ne`emah For Fragrance & Oudh FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Powdery notes
Heart: Vanilla, cedar
Base: Agarwood (oud), musk, woody notes

Ne’emah’s Laya became available in Australia last September when Sephora opened their doors. As I laid my bottle in the snow, I thought of its origin, Kuwait. Although known for its hot climate, it does get cold and occasionally snows in Kuwait and the compulsory air conditioning can also be freezing…so perhaps there is a need over there for snug scents? Laya is a warm blanket of velvet to me, cozy, sensual, sweet and dry. A rather undeviating balance of powdery oud, cedarwood, styrax and sweetened with vanilla and musks to the point it does fall into the gourmand oriental wood category. Laya is enchanting. Immediately addictive, attracts compliments, is well priced making it great for gifting. At a concentration of 20-30% fragrance it packs a punch. It is a must have for all of the above but also because of what it does, layered under other lighter fragrances – deepening them, adding velvet warmth, lengthening longevity on skin and balancing sweet fruit notes which I can find sickly. Laya provides a solid, yet fresh, airy, sweet cedar heart. All without overtaking or projecting too strongly or synthetically. It’s magic. It’s yum. And you need some.

Laya by Mohammad Ne’Emah

With major trends and influences in fragrance now coming from the Middle East I was intrigued and keen to learn more about the first Middle Eastern fragrance brand to hit Australia’s mainstream shelves. So I had high tea with Mohammad Ne’Emah, nose and founder of the brand when I heard he was in Sydney.

Mohammad personally collects raw materials from Istanbul-rose, Bulgaria-rose, Morocco, France-jasmine, Turkey – styrax, India – amber and musk, Indonesia-ylang. He only uses real amber as he finds synthetic amber powdery. Once he was stopped at customs in Laos with 50 kg of oud and was not allowed to travel with it.

Ainslie Snow 2015 #2

Fragrance is in his heritage – his grandfather collected ingredients from India in 1952 including oud, saffron, and agar. His mother traditionally burnt oud and styrax on charcoal to cleanse their home. Perfumery became a hobby for Mohammad aged 16 and it became his way to express his feelings.

I am puzzled as to why this brand has so far slipped under the radar with the perfumistas. Skip to Fragrantica where Laya (and others in the range) has few reviews and an outdated photograph of it’s packaging…tut tut!! Sales are up in Sephora though and there is two new releases planned for September: Jardis and Nubliable. Which gives me something to look forwards to as I pack away my treasured winter warmers.

Further reading: Perfume Posse and Red Lips & Lace
Available in Sephora Stores

Tell me some fragrances you think you’d like to try layered on top of Laya?

Come have a look at my Instagram: Ainslie_Walker

Ainslie Snow 2015 #4

Ainslie Snow 2015 #5

Ainslie Snow 2015 #1

Ainslie Snow 2015 #3

More Move On Monday Club

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Post by Holly

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Move On Monday Club Part 2

Hi guys! Yep, it’s that time again. After the success of my initial APJ Move On Monday post I certainly have LOTS of stuff that I intend to move on from, and some of it is perfume-related so let’s get moving! As before, I hope you will all share with me where you are in your perfume journey.

Thanks to everyone’s suggestions, I’m pretty clear on how to organize my samples and my thoughts about what I like and don’t like. I realized that this is REALLY important as I don’t want to re-order anything. Can you believe I actually thought that I’d remember if I didn’t like something? I also thought that I must have every ding-dong sample I was ever remotely interested in, and if I no longer had it that meant that I must not have liked it. I swear, sometimes what my brain does can not be called “thinking.” Sigh …

Move On Monday Club Part 2 Nicolas Huk FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

More Move On Monday Club

So moving on from the subject of sampling, I’m now focusing on what I want to acquire. I did not know what a pig I am. I freakin’ want a LOT of perfume, but I don’t want a lot of stuff! Does this make sense AT ALL? I already HAVE a lot of perfume. (Sorry about the shouty words – I’m yelling at myself like I’m a kid in a candy store. No! Put it down! Put it back!)

I recently read a reference somewhere about taking into consideration the actual volume in mls of perfume you have. Oh dear. That is one tidbit I think I’ll ignore. However, I have realized that while I love a pretty bottle and the weight and feel of it in my hands, I can probably be satisfied 95% of the time with decants.

Move On Monday Club Part 2  Herbert James Draper Pot_Pourri WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Now comes the hard part, for me at least. I want to rein myself in a bit and move on from being greedy, which is what this phase feels like for me. I have finally understood that I can’t have it all, and I don’t actually want to possess it all. All my ducks will never be in a row. The carrot is always a foot away from the donkey.

On to the questions….

How do you decide when a perfume is FBW? Do you make up your mind pretty quickly? Once you’ve decided you want to add a perfume to your collection, do you wait for a special occasion to treat yourself?

Have you made any decisions about certain notes, houses or formulations such as all-natural perfumes, or vintage frags that affect what you will sample or purchase?

Has your perfume journey been pretty consistent, or has it changed significantly over time? Are you feeling content where you are with it right now, or is there any aspect of it you would like to move on from?

I look forward to reading what everyone has to say! If you would like to move on from something else in your life – thoughts, feelings, attitudes, obsessions, situations or people – what have you – do share those as well.

Holly xo

Dirty Flower Factory GIVEAWAY WINNER

Hey Crew,

It was great to have you along for the draw. Thanks to John Pegg for creating such a beautiful scent, whoever wins Dirty Flower Factory is getting a gem. We love giving you the opportunity to try stuff that you may have missed.

Do go check out the Kerosene site.

Let’s find out who won!
Portia xx

Dirty Flower Factory by Kerosene 2014

Dirty Flower Factory by John Pegg

Dirty Flower Factory Kerosene FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Rose, jasmine, orange blossom, pink pepper, chili pepper, sandalwood, ambergris, musk

Dirty Flower Factory GIVEAWAY WINNER

WHAT COULD YOU WIN?

This week we will have 1 winner who will receive:
1 x Dirty Flower Factory decant (about 3ml in a spritz)
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Sunday 16th August 2015 10pm Australian EST
Winner was chosen by random.org

Winner cemre-ile-herteldenPhoto Stolen cemre-ile-hertelden

PATTY-PONG

CONGRATULATIONS!! The winner will have till Thursday 20th August 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Fougère Bengale by Marc-Antoine Corticchiato for Parfum d`Empire 2007

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Post by Portia

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Hi there Fragrance Fiends,

I have long lusted after the Parfum d’Empire perfumer. Marc-Antoine Corticchiato is a friggen hottie, so suave and handsome looking, so finished and grand. Here’s a photo to get you in the mood….

Marc-Antoine Corticchiato Parfum d'Empire

Fougère Bengale by Parfum d`Empire 2007

Fougère Bengale by Marc-Antoine Corticchiato

Fougère-Bengale Parfum d'EmpirePhoto Stolen Parfum d’Empire

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lavender, tea, ginger, mint
Heart: Hay, tobacco, pepper
Base: Oakmoss, patchouli, vanilla, tonka bean

From Parfum d’Empire: Edwardian dandies scented themselves with fougère, a classic fragrance family based on lavender, tonka bean and oak moss. Fougère Bengale revisits the genre with a powerful, honeyed blond tobacco accord, and carries us off to India…

Smoky tea, spice and hay are what come through initially on my skin and honeyed sweet tobacco. I know there’s lavender here, my brain is saying lavender, lavender, lavender but my nose doesn’t smell it at all. The smoky tea goees pretty quickly and the spice changes, not so energetic and I really do feel like I’m about to light a cigarette in a hayloft.

Photo Stolen WikiCommons

Then the main notes take a balmy turn, everything smooths out and the honeyed sweetness that often catches in the back of my throat becomes a softer, suppler and more comfortable beast all together. All of a sudden I am in a cozy, warm fragrance that is still dappled with light but now it’s a less golden and more burnished copper. Calmer, sweeter, smoother and cuddlier. The tiger is now a kitten purring happily in your lap or cuddled in the crook of your arm.

Fougere Bengale Parfum d`Empire Tiger Moni Sertel FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

I still get wafts of tobacco and hay through the heart and into the base but they are quickly quelled by the lovely resins. To be honest I get very little of India in Fougere Bengale at all. It’s too clean and too European elegant, once the fireworks die down I get much more Professor Higgins library than Shah Jahan’s tiger hunt. Yet I find it both appealing and wearable, it’s interesting enough to keep me sniffing and the longevity is excellent.

Further reading: Scented Hound and Non Blonde
Parfum d’Empire has 120/100ml
LuckyScent has $145/100ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $3.50/ml

India! Have you been? Is it on your list?
Portia xx

Shalimar + Mountain Adventure Photo Essay

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Post by Portia

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Hey there Perfume Peeps,

Today was so wonderful. One of the guys (Jean-Luc) that comes to my Tuesday Trivia has recently started an Art Shop in the mountains near Sydney. They are called the Blue Mountains because something in the eucalyptus trees shimmers blue through the air and thus the mountains look blue from afar, it’s lovely if you have them in your view. Another of the boys from Tuesday Trivia (Leo) is a motorbike rider and we have been chatting for a while about going on a bike excursion to Katoomba to see Jean-Luc. Today was the day.

It started out lovely in the sun, warm and toasty. Figuring it would stay that way I eschewed the thermals, wet weather gear, beany and puffer jacket under my riding kit. BAD IDEA! As soon as we got 20 minutes along the highway, freezing, stinging rain and the strongest winds I’ve ever ridden in. OMG! So freaking cold. It was incredibly exhilarating though and I was kept on constant alert, it was like a ride at a fairground except I was the one who had to be in control of the bike.

Anyway, we get to the top and have the most wonderful coffee before Jean-Luc opens the store. It’s a very modern artists place, mainly catering to spray paint artists who have covered the walls of the store with murals and the back alley has been given to artists from all over the world to paint, each wall a different and magical scene. It’s astounding the intricate detail they are able to bring with a spray can.

Blue Mountains Aug 2015 #1

Blue Mountains Aug 2015 #2

Blue Mountains Aug 2015 #3

Blue Mountains Aug 2015 #4After looking at the murals in the area we popped across the road to the funkiest food place ever. The Yellow Deli. An ex-hippy hang if ever there was one. It seems to be a cross between rural, historical, hysterical and home improvements. Every piece lovingly hand rendered, something happening everywhere you turn and all seemingly with little rhyme or reason: eclectic and fun. We were ushered upstairs by a friendly waiter who thought we were a band (super cool US!!) and spent a few minutes just drinking in the ambiance. I had been told what to order and I dutifully did. I think it was called a Darling Rose Sandwich. OMG! Disgusting. Ha Ha Ha ha!! It was too much super salty ham, some onion with tomato chutney and tomato sauce AND mayonnaise. BLEAUGH! I was so hungry though that I ate every bite, and by the end of it I kind of got used to it.

Blue Mountains Aug 2015 #5

Blue Mountains Aug 2015 #6

Blue Mountains Aug 2015 #7Then the unbelievable happened. 2 hours from the heart of Sydney and it SNOWED!! Big, puffy, soft looking gusts of snow that got so heavy the street was obscured. Totally fabulous. Not enough to cover the world white but it was snow, and from our comfortable seat in the deli it was magical.

Blue Mountains Aug 2015 #8After that Leo & I went and had a look at a piece of land I’m quite interested in and then we rode home. While in the mountains I purchased (at 50% Discount!) a pair of electric green merino wool leggings and matching beany, I donned my puffer jacket under my bike jacket and the ride home was considerably warmer, and dryer because the snow and rain had stopped.

Guerlain Shalimar Satin Shower Gel 200ml

When I got home to really warm myself up I drew a bath and used Shalimar Gel Douche as my Bubble Bath. It was fiery hot and deliciously scented. There is no better place in the world to warm a cold, tired body and relax an overactive mind. It was bliss. I have spritzed some recent Shalimar EdP and am now bathed in a cloud of my own sweet smelling loveliness. Sometimes life feels really good.

Shalimar Fourreau du Soir Guerlain FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Further reading: APJ Shalimar Parfum, APJ Shalimar EdP and APJ Shalimar EdC
FragranceNet has $73/90ml current EdP before coupon
Surrender To Chance has EdP samples starting at $3/ml

How do you like to wind down? Do you have a favourite bath soak?

Portia xx

Classic Patchouli GIVEAWAY WINNERS

WOO HOO! Great giveaway thanks to Val and the Von Eusersdorff crew. Thanks everyone for getting involved and Val got so excited she wants to send 4 packs. YAY!!!
Portia xx

Classic Patchouli by Von Eusersdorff 2011

Classic Patchouli Von Eusersdorff FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot
Heart: Patchouli
Base: Vanilla, tonka bean, sandalwood

Classic Patchouli GIVEAWAY WINNERS

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 3 (NOW 4) winners who will each receive:
1 x sample Classic Patchouli by Von Eusersdorff
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Friday 14th August 2015 10pm Australian EST
Winners were chosen by random.org

winners-are prospectsplusPhoto Stolen prospectsplus

HOLLY
BEC
PATSI
TIM

The winners will have till Monday 17th August 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

 

Dirty Flower Factory by Kerosene 2014

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Post by Portia

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Hey APJ,

It’s been a while since I got my nose on any of ex perfume reviewer and self-taught perfumer John Pegg’s work. I have liked some of his stuff a lot and he is pretty damn handsome too, here’s a pic…

John Pegg KerosenePhoto Stolen Kerosene

Dirty Flower Factory by Kerosene 2014

Dirty Flower Factory by John Pegg

Dirty Flower Factory Kerosene FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Rose, jasmine, orange blossom, pink pepper, chili pepper, sandalwood, ambergris, musk

Dirty Flower Factory starts out smelling like a fabulously old school rose floral with a lovely green bite that could be the chili pepper, cool and hot simultaneously. It’s a fun, sizzling bunch of flowers that are pretty but more than pretty, they are fabulous. To my nose the Kerosene label has grown up. Dirty Flower Factory is a unisex rose that feels absolutely and utterly “Special Event” wear. Though I could imagine it being important day wear too but in my head it’s saying black tie. The bouquet is really tenacious and I get hours of this fab, fresh, alive smelling floral extravaganza.

As we dry down the rose, greenery and chili settle into some lightly animalic cream but still the sharp rose persists over all. Very nicely executed and totally wearable. The more I wear Dirty Flower Factory the more I think this would also work as a Sunday afternoon out in the sun too.

Dirty Flower Factory KerosenePhoto Stolen Kerosene

Further reading: Memory of Scent and The Silver Fox
IndieScents has $140/100ml and samples

Better yet, why don’t you try Dirty Flower Factory? See below…
Portia xx

giveaway kbairdPhoto Stolen kbaird

Dirty Flower Factory GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 1 winner who will receive:
1 x Dirty Flower Factory decant (about 3ml in a spritz)
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me (portia underscore turbo @ yahoo dot com dot au) so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please tell me your favourite Kerosene fragrance or Independent Perfumer.

Extra Chance?
Tweet: Dirty Flower Factory by Kerosene GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-4aT  

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 16th August 2015 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winner will be chosen by random.org
The winner will have till Thursday 20th August 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Bottega Veneta: The Art Of Collaboration

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Post by Portia

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Hiya APJ,

This is a beautiful, eerie piece of film. Gritty and dark, black & white mini movie with one of the most incredible models I’ve seen in years. She is flawless as the wealthy, languid, dissipated young socialite.

The Art Of Collaboration Fall-Winter with Juergen Teller vimeoPhoto Stolen vimeo

I hope you enjoy it as much as I did.

Portia xx

Bottega Veneta: The Art Of Collaboration

Fall-Winter 2015/2016 with Juergen Teller

Introducing the Fall-Winter 2015/2016 campaign captured by Juergen Teller
Photographed in the former home of Carlo Mollino, one of Italy’s most influential mid-20th century designers, the campaign is the latest in the series of Tomas Maier’s ongoing collaborations with renowned artists.

Eau Aimable by Les Couvent des Minimes 2012

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Post by Poodle

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I love white flowers. I find it interesting that the smallest flowers with the least color usually have tons of fragrance. Another interesting thing is you almost need to stand at a distance to really smell them. It’s odd but sometimes sticking your nose into a bunch just doesn’t have the same glorious effect as catching the scent on the breeze.

I’m not much of a citrus girl but orange blossom makes my heart skip a beat. It’s one of my favorite notes for the brightness it gives to perfumes. Unfortunately it can end up smelling soapy which some people hate. I don’t mind soapy orange flower. To me, the soapy note is really relative to what kinds of soap you’re used to smelling. Mom didn’t buy flowery soaps so my reference point is different I guess. Even now when I do buy flowery soaps I don’t mind smelling like them.

Eau Aimable by Les Couvent des Minimes 2012

Eau Aimable Le Couvent des Minimes ParfumoPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Bergamot, mandarin, orange blossom, petitgrain, rose, nasturtium

Eau Aimable by Le Couvent des Minimes is based on the original recipe of the Franciscan Missionaries of Mary. It’s not a soapy orange blossom perfume to me. It’s bright. It’s white. It’s flowery. Dare I say it’s a great little blast of orange blossom at a great price? It is! I picked mine up at Ulta on sale for less than $30 US. That’s practically free in comparison to a lot of perfume these days. It opens strong and sweet but then quickly retreats to a softer sillage.

Oberon, Titania and Puck with Fairies Dancing circa 1786 William Blake 1757-1827 Presented by Alfred A. de Pass in memory of his wife Ethel 1910 http://www.tate.org.uk/art/work/N02686Photo Stolen Wikimedia

 There’s a whole lotta orange here: bergamot, mandarin, orange blossom, and petitgrain. It’s flowery, not too fruity, and doesn’t call to mind sour baby aspirin or cleaning products. It’s simple and I mean that in a good way. It smells like real flowers and isn’t ruined by excessive amounts of white musk like many orange blossom perfumes. Eau Aimable is pretty linear but the key word is pretty. You can’t help but feel pretty when you’re this flowery. I don’t smell much rose or nasturtium but honestly I haven’t tried to find them. I’m enjoying the overall orange blossom effect too much.

Eau Aimable Le Couvent des Minimes Rumah_Gadang WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

This fragrance could give a lot of niche scents a run for their money. It has decent lasting power, isn’t too syrupy, and wafts at a respectable level. If you’re looking for a simple orange blossom scent this is worth a sniff. It’s become a favorite bedtime scent for me. A light spritz before crawling into some soft sheets is a perfect way to drift off to dream. It’s also nice for those days when I need a little fragrant sunshine like right now as I’m writing this and we’re under a tornado watch and the sky is turning funny colors.

Le Couvent des Minimes has $38/100ml

I’m a fan of cheap and cheerful fragrances. What are your guiltless scented pleasures?

Hugs
Poodle

Sensual Orchid by Jerome Epinette for LM Parfums 2012

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Post by Trésor

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Where I grew up the opportunities to express my authentic self were few and far between, it was not until later in life when I’d developed a certain degree self confidence that I was able to manifest who I truly was and see that very person staring back at me from the mirror for the first time. It was in significant part through the exploration of exquisite fragrance and rituals of beauty that I found myself growing more comfortable in my own skin and experiencing a newfound symbiosis between body and spirit.

The one thing I recall so vividly with a great deal of fondness from these early years is so simple, the pacifying aromas that would accompany the application of my skincare and makeup. With each breath inward I could feel myself transforming, the chrysalis breaking away and the gentle warmth of lambent sunbeams filtering though upon my skin. As you can imagine, this olfactory landscape holds a rather profound emotional significance to me so when I came across a fragrance that encapsulated this sacred microcosm with such ease and incredible grace I was moved to tears. Sensual Orchid is a time capsule, the contents of which are the essence of what afforded me threads of hope and unimaginable joy when both were in short supply.

Sensual Orchid by Jerome Epinette for LM Parfums 2012

Sensual Orchid LM Parfums FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Mandarin orange, almond, neroli
Heart: Orchid, jasmine sambac, ylang-ylang, peony, heliotrope
Base: Vanilla, musk, woody notes, cedar, labdanum, benzoin

Upon my initial breath I am taken by the heartbreakingly voluptuous vapours rising forth from my skin, crystalline wedges of mandarin orange glistening with cognac dew drops falling gracefully into an ebbing ocean of almonds imagined as heavenly cream. The technicolor petals of sumptuous ylang ylang rise from beneath the surface, radiant in hues of canary, languid with lashings of the almond cream and what’s now materializing as sweet, fleshy coconut. This achingly luscious olfactory texture calls to mind that of the creams my grandmother would apply each and every morning and night, a practice she passed down to me and one which would later exhibit itself as the genesis of one of my greatest passions. A veritable kaleidoscope of indulgent florals unveils itself, each petal metamorphosing into another before the one preceding can be identified in full. From narcotic jasmine, jovial peony, the syrupy richness of heliotrope to what I swear are tendrils of libidinous tuberose and back again in a display of decadent hedonism and dancerly motion.

sensual-orchid-lm-parfums shimmer-and-move FotoCommunityPhoto Stolen FotoCommunity

As Sensual Orchid dries down it takes on the scent of something very dear to my heart, the aroma which resides within the silk lined leather bag where I keep my favourite makeup, the cherished treasures that have done well to assuage dysphoria in the throes of growing up as a transgender youth in an environment of hostility and rage. A dulcet aura of soft vanilla permeates the background, not unlike the aroma of my beloved Russian Red lipstick. A gleaming hologram of cashmere woods flickers, redolent of the shavings of well loved kohl pencils, illuminating the diaphanous dust of delicate French face powder dancing in the air.

sensual-orchid-lm-parfums rainbow_eye DeviantArtPhoto Stolen DeviantArt

On my skin Sensual Orchid radiates in full bloom for just about six hours, tapering into a translucent whisper for another three until it finally exists as an exquisite memory. Initially the sillage is considerable but as time passes Sensual Orchid recedes closer and closer to the skin until finally fades away, becoming a sensory delight for only those you choose to draw near.

Further reading: Australian Perfume Junkies and Scented Hound
Jovoy Paris has €195/100ml
Osswald NYC has $225/100ml

Do you have a fragrance that reminds you of a particular metamorphosis in your life?

Until next time, my darlings.
Trésor