Sydney Libertine Masterclass

January 20, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 13 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

Sydney’s first stand-alone niche perfume boutique has opened! We can now experience and discover an array of fragrances in the heart of Darlinghurst at Libertine. If you have previously visited Libertine in Brisbane, you will know why this is so freaking exciting!

Nick Smart is one of the pioneers of niche perfumery in Australia. He is the director of Libertine Brisbane/Sydney, Agence de Parfum (David Jones Sydney), Galerie de Parfum (Myer Sydney/Melbourne) and he also distributes and imports top niche brands such as Creed, Lubin, Juliette Has a Gun, Penhaligons, Amouage, Dear Rose, Keiko Mercheri, L’Artisan, Mark Buxton, Frapin, Rance and more! If you have purchased any of these brands in Australia, no doubt Nick was behind it somehow.

Sydney Libertine Masterclass

Libertine also holds perfume masterclasses and Nick invited me along to the first Sydney class, which was for the staff of a Flow Athletic Yoga Studio at 1/134 Oxford Street, Paddington NSW 2021. Their boss had sent them along as part of their Christmas “do”. Each of them was to leave with a full bottle of perfume of their choice!! Amazingly generous and a fantastic and memorable gift to give the team!

Nick had the ladies gather around the table with their complimentary champagne in hand and went through the main fragrance families from Michael Edwards’ fragrance wheel with corresponding fragrances from the boutique. He explained where you might wear each type of fragrance and what’s appropriate for what activity, season and time of day. He says start the day in something light and fresh and ramp it up into the evening with more spice and alluring gourmand notes. Best dating fragrances being Piguet’s Visa and Petit Fracas and Costume National’s award wining, So Nude.

In explaining the difference between niche and mainstream fragrances he pointed out only 5 companies own all the fragrance brands seen in department stores. Some of the fragrance houses he sells have been around for 200 years, and their fragrances are still relevant now, and still will be in another 200 – unlike the modern scents that come and go quickly.

He mentions someone from a mainstream perfume house said their bottles cost $2 to be made compared to Niche houses who can spend $17 just on a lid! Amouage’s bottle design has a Swarovski crystal on the lid and Lubin’s Black Jade and Gin Fizz bottles are inspired by Grace Kelly’s silhouette in Monaco with her big hat.

Each attendee filled out a card and I used the new Fragrances of the World/ Libertine fragrance finder app (Nick’s “magic tool”) and the Libertine website to write down a few recommendations for each person to try later. He went through what everyone’s favorites were and the majority of the group was floral.

When he was asked where we should spray perfume Nick said avoid spraying your décolletage as the chemicals and sun in combination can react with the skin and also to protect breast tissue.

He demonstrated the use of travel atomizers because many people carry full bottles in their bags to top up during the day, but often our handbags are exposed to heat.

Nick knows EVERYTHING about the product houses, the perfumes themselves, their history and stories and how to really tap into the needs of the individual and find a scent to match them or push them a little further out from their comfort zones. He had the girls opened mouthed in delight as their minds were expanded in to the world of niche and beyond the floral family type.

Libertine Parfumerie @ 1-3 Taylor St, Darlinghurst 2010

Since fragrances hold memories it’s great to start a new year with a new fragrance and this can really motivate you forwards instead of holding on to old memories and ex-partners! What new scents are on your list to start 2015 with a bang?

Ainslie Walker x

Message in a Bottle by Mark Buxton 2015 + Floriography

January 6, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 13 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

Picture yourself walking along a beach and discovering a bottle of (undamaged) perfume. What would you do? What might be inside? Where could it have come from? And who might have sent or lost it? Mark Buxton’s soon to be released “Message in a Bottle” conjures up many a romantic scene and barrage of questions for me, both from the name, as well as from the fragrance itself.

Message in a Bottle by Mark Buxton 2015

Message in a Bottle New release for 2015!!

It is beautiful, uplifting, fresh and easy to wear. I had no information or clues about its contents and thus in an attempt to decode its message I turned to researching Floriography. The “language of flowers” was most commonly used in Victorian times and allowed people to send messages through giving and wearing of flowers or a scented handkerchief. Each flower had significance and provided a symbolic message. Sometimes a handkerchief was scented instead.

Photo Stolen WikiCommons

Message in a Bottle Floriography

Here’s what I discovered about what Buxton’s “Message in a Bottle” may be all about:
Magnolia – freedom, grand splendour, nobility, perseverance, old-fashioned romance and enduring true love – love that lasts throughout time and space.
Neroli – spiritual cleansing and is thought to aid a return to innocence, thus often used at weddings. It symbolises new love blossoming into eternal love and fulfilment.
Ylang-ylang – is strongly aphrodisiac in its properties. A man with one of these in his lapel would certainly mean business!
Petitgrain (Orange leaf) is sweet, slightly sour and citrus in fragrance and is immediately uplifting, promoting a sense of wellbeing and cleanliness. Its freshness would have stood out during Victorian times, where it was uncommon to bathe regularly.
Jasmine – symbolises demure beauty, elegance and comfort for the soul. Indian jasmine references attachment, whilst other jasmines can represent sensuality, modesty and grace.
Rose – multiple layers of scented petals represent everlasting beauty and love. Every colour rose has its own meaning. Usually in perfumery we use damask, which denotes love or pink Bulgarian roses, which mean happiness. Red roses scream of love and passion and are traditionally the most popular way, even today, to say “I love you”, white are for purity, yellow for infidelity, tea rose for never forgetting and receiving a bunch of thornless roses means love at first sight.
Ambergris – aphrodisiac and a fixative from way back, its marine notes further enhance the mystery surrounding a bottle washing ashore. Traditionally ambergris is found just like a Message in a Bottle, washed up on the seashore. It’s marine, faecal and musky odour screams of “sex.”
Cistus – belongs to the rockrose family and it’s the resin from the leaves (labdanum) that is generally used in perfumery. In the past goats and sheep were herded through the bushes and the hair on their underbellies collected the sticky resin, which was then combed or cut out. Balsamic and resinous in aromatherapy it is thought of as a calming aphrodisiac, which also enhances intuition, elevates emotions and keeps one grounded.
Civet – to stabilise a fragrance and the civets of the world use their secretions to attract a mate during mating season. In this bottle it’s more than likely synthetic, however, the message of attraction is clear.
Sandalwood – invokes deep states of relaxation, meditation and to cleanse negativity.

Photo Stolen Flickr

Strength and longevity is great. It’s a beautiful bouquet of creamy wood, floral and amber that feels fresh yet beautiful, both for day and evening wear.
Soon available at Libertine

Have you tried Mark Buxton’s fragrances yet?
Ainslie Walker x

Sunshine by Amouage 2014: Meeting Christopher Chong

December 16, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 18 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

Tea with Christopher Chong, Nick Smart and Portia

When Portia invited me to meet Christopher Chong of Amouage I was obviously there in a flash!! Libertine Parfumerie‘s Nick Smart and his team from Agency De Parfums had allocated us a 30 minute time slot to chat about Amouage and introduce a new fragrance.

We left 2 hours later!!!!

Starting out ceremoniously, we were served tea amongst beautiful flower arrangements and the new brightly packaged Midnight Flower candles and room sprays. With the 4 ambient fragrances – Hope, Smile, Love and Happy Christopher shares the positive memories of his dog Georgi, who sadly passed away. The scents contrast with the sophisticated Amouage back catalogue, yet hold resemblance amid the depth of emotions behind them. With 50% of the sales going to the guide dog foundation it has been a healing project for Christopher who much prefers nights in, in his home in London’s Battersea with his dogs rather than going out.

Christopher’s role as Creative Director of Amouage means he sets the story, mood, tone and suggests ingredients he wants included and then briefs a perfumer of his choice. He is not a nose, however has worked with top perfumers including Bernard Ellena, Alexandra Carlin, Emilie (Bevierre) Coppermann. Nathalie Feisthauer, Alexandra Carlin and Violaine Collas.

Christopher then told us about Sunshine, releasing in December in Australia exclusively

Sunshine by Amouage 2014

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Artemisia, black currant, almond
Heart: Osmanthus, jasmine, magnolia, vanilla
Base: Juniper, patchouli, papyrus, white tobacco

Packaged in yellow, gold and white and nestled in an eggshell blue and gold wooden box, Sunshine immediately screams of a new direction for Amouage, a more mainstream idea and Christopher Chong mocking all the brands that have been influenced by (or even copied) his innovations.

It’s creamy white goodness engulfs me…

Sunshine starts sweet as if an excited infant with mouth full of a fruit and marzipan-loaded wedding cake has breathed in my face in delight. It’s somehow juicy and powdery at the same time. I can also smell a bunch of balloons. I am thinking happy and celebratory thoughts while wearing this. Weddings, fairs, rollercoasters and jolly things like that. It’s bright, big white floral and gourmand for sure. But is it sunshine? The sun is definitely out, but I’d almost say its balmy late afternoon sunshine, not the scorching middle of the day sun we have here in Australia.

Osmanthus provides an enchanting and slightly exotic twist that somehow levels the swarm of sweetness engulfing me. It’s now as if the sunshine is surrounded by some thick deep and cosy cumulus clouds that we peer through olfactively. Osmanthus is a relative of lilac and has a similar kind of creamy powderyness to its scent. They do seem like cousins, smellwise, with Osmanthus being fruitier to me, somewhere between peachy mango and dried apricot in its heart. Osmanthus flowers can be creamy white right through to orange, but for perfume its the orange flowers that are used.

There is heavy waxy floral jasmine component evident throughout. Milky notes are waxy almond and nutty.

Sunshine’s slightly oriental tendancies and magical twists of Artemisia give it depth and keep it interesting. Its unisex for sure. Drydown seems to go forever (eight hours plus!) and at the end of the day my shirt still smells strongly, smoldering more and more…in fact getting quite sexy in contrast to its opening.

At the end of our time together Christopher signs our Amouage discovery box gifts and we leave him, exhausted, but giggling the whole ride down to planet earth via the lift!!

Ainslie Walker xxx

All the clear photos donated by Ainslie Walker, all the shit ones by Portia x

Arquiste: Carlos Huber Interview 2014

December 6, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 6 Comments

Post by Anslie Walker

Arquiste at Peony Melbourne’s Event

Carlos Huber is director/curator of Arquiste perfumes. I got to have a lunch with him in Melbourne, moments before the Australian launch of new fragrances L’Etrog Aqua and Architects Club at Peony Haute Perfumerie.

Arquiste: Carlos Huber Interview 2014

You are studied Preservation Architecture, did you also study perfumery?

I started as a Preservation Architect and also worked for Ralph Lauren. I met a perfume evaluator who introduced me to perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux. I became friends with him, spending a year studying with him as much as possible. We share a love of history, so he understands my passion and interprets my visions well.

How did the range develop?

I came up with 6 stories, moments in history for the perfumers to translate. I choose places I have visited and connect with deeply to ensure the fragrances are authentic. The aim is to bring olfactive references to life. They are historic moments in time, yet I did not want them to be vintage, I wanted them to be modern concepts where we are dropped in that moment, not have the moment brought to us. We also use the most modern of ingredients to create hyper real experiences.

Tell me about the Arquiste signature bottles?

I love these, they are Italian made, solid and round and if you look closely on the inside you cannot see where the glass and perfume begin and end. I just had the lids remade so they are heavy in the hand. The new fragrances are in 100ml only and the originals are in 50ml, eventually they will all be available in the 100ml size.

Overview of the range with quotes from Carlos:
Woods and Citrus:
Aleksandr is an amber leather developed by Yann Vasnier that interprets a Russian love story in 1837. Violet and neroli is the fired-up lovers after shave products, as he gets ready to leave the house for a dual. He dons his fur coat and leather boots and heads outside amongst the snow-laden fir and birch trees, where in a clearing ahead, the fateful duel awaits him.

Architects Club by Yaan Vasnier “this fragrance is set in The Fumé-the jewel of Claridge’s and has 3 phases – the first fresh icy gin martini phase with juniper, angelica, lavender, clary sage and coriander, the second comfortable woods and amber where oak, guaicwood and sensual ambermax settle on skin and thirdly the dry smoky vanilla tobacco, old books and leather phase. I love wearing this fragrance!!”

L’Etrog is a citrus chypre developed with both Rodrigo and Yann. It’s inspired by Jewish harvest festival Sukkot, which occurs in October. “L’Etrog is Hebrew for Citron and is the balmy sweet night time in Calabria, Italy 1175 where farmers gather after a day in the citron fields. Dried date accord and scents from the wood cabin mix with the intense citron leaving a velvety powder dry down after the zest has died down.”

L’Etrog Aqua is an Eau De Cologne style yet contains 15% perfume concentration!! It’s the morning after L’Etrog, where dew is heavy on the citron fields, green, tart, wet, juicy and cool, it sheds light on aspects of the original and highlights them. “This fragrance contains more myrtle than any other fragrance, along with lavender, rosemary, vetiver and pistachio, which is like a dry cedar.”

Anima Dulcis was developed by both perfumers and is definitely worth a try. Carlos describes it as “a baroque gourmand” combining cocoa, Mexican vanilla, cinnamon and three types of chilli to interpret a convent in Mexico City in 1695 where a group of nuns prepare recipes of bread puddings and hot chocolate.

Florals:
Fleur De Louis is a woody floral developed by Rodrigo Flores-Roux’s. It’s the French perspective in 1660 on the French and Spanish boarder, where Louis XIV is about to capture a glimpse of his new bride, Maria Theresa. Orris, jasmine and rose represent the French as they peer from a pavilion made from freshly cut pine and cedarwood. Orange blossom wafts from the Spanish infant’s clothing.

Infanta en flor is a floral musky amber and is Yann Vasnier’s take on the same time/place as Fleur de Louis, but from a Spanish perspective. Maria Teresa, blushes, fans herself and steals a look back at the gallant King as he lays his eyes on her for the first time. Cistus, Spanish leather and immortelle dance with the innocent scent of orange flower water, rose-rouge and rice powder.
“The French perfumer did the perspective from the Spanish border and the Spanish from the French!” Carlos marvels.

Boutonniere No7 was Rodrigo Flores-Roux’s work and is a green floral fragrance made with the brief of “How does a man wear a flower?” Carlos explains “The answer is that men wore white gardenias on their lapel to the opera in Paris in 1899 to seduce women. We originally wanted it to be at the end of the night – it became quite sickly and did not work so we went for the first intermission at the opera combining gardenia with cologne ingredients such as lavender, vetiver, oakmoss, mandarin, bergamot and then added an ultra dose of jasmine”

Flor Y Canto meaning “flower and song” was developed with Rodrigo Flores-Roux and is a fresh, green opulent white floral “mixing Mexican originated flowers of tuberose, magnolia, marigold and frangipani with incense of Tenochtitlan, Mexico in August 1400 to represent a festival of flowers called Tlaxochimaco where flowers are offered on temple alters for the gods and the dead.”

Which are favorite fragrances for you?

My favorites are Cologne Bigarade by Jean-Claude Ellena for Frederic Male, D’Orsay’s Le Nomade, Tom Ford’s Champaca Absolute and Neroli Portofino.

Of the Arquiste line – what do you wear the most?

I have been wearing a lot of the Architects Club lately (I have to say it smells FANTASTIC on Carlos!) and also Fleur de Louis is my other favorite.
In winter in New York I also like to wear L’Etrog /L’Etrog Aqua on my scarf and under layers as they contrast with the winter in a nice way.

Can we have a glimpse into the next story/moment in time you will bring to us with the next fragrance?

I can say it is based between 1614 and 1622 and is based on special cargo that traveled between Mexico, Europe and Japan.

Ainslie Walker x

Peony Melbourne: Haute Parfumerie Adventure + Photo Essay

December 2, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 14 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

Hi all. Do you feel overwhelmed when perfume shopping? I often do, but not today in Peony, Melbourne.

Peony Melbourne: Haute Parfumerie Adventure

Ever-so-stylish Jill greeted me as I entered, along with an almighty hit of heady fresh jasmine flower, which were cascading, displayed in the window. The interior oozed sophistication and opulence, nothing dusty or out of place. Themed black and white, a nod to French couture and boudoir, sparkling bottles everywhere, super cool touches of quirky humour. Jill has put her heart and soul into this little luxe haven.

With complimentary sparkling fruit juice in hand complete with black and white striped straw, I began my Peony, Melbourne journey…

From the Olfactive Studio stand, the zesty Still Life called to me like a caiparinia on a blazing summers day. Yuzu, elemi and pepper -pink, black and Sichuan pepper. Star anise and galbanum. Dark rum, cedar and ambrox. I absolutely love the lemony citrus combo with slightly soured spice and pepper, almost sherbet fizz working on top of the deeper wood, amber and rum notes.

Jill explained the range is inspired by photography – Still life from a self-portrait, by Frederic Lebain, which was inspiration for perfumer, Dora Baghriche-Arnaud. A boxed “discovery kit”, containing 5 x 4ml for $55 was in my hands: KERR-CHING!!…Purchase #1.

To my left was Ormonde Jayne, I grabbed Ormonde Woman and spritzed it onto a Peony branded blotter. Cardamom, coriander and grass oil. Black hemlock, violet and jasmine absolute. Vetiver, cedar wood, amber and sandalwood YUM. Love at first sniff. Beautiful. Womanly, magical, floral and herbaceous. The bottle feels weighty in my hand as I reluctantly place it back. A boxed “discovery set” ($95) 12 x 2ml landed on the counter -Purchase #2

Jill offers gently delivered advice, then leaves me to my own devices. She is unobtrusive, yet there when I need her. She guides my experience and lets it unfold organically. I am in awe of how many Peony-exclusive brands stocked that I never have had the chance to smell anywhere else in Australia.

Passing the handpicked Hermes selection, I re-sniff Hiris, and Eau de Pamplemousse Rose, two of my favorites of the range.

At Heeley, Cocobella disappoints – the notes sounded better than I experience…too thin. I discover Hippie Rose. Fresh rose and patchouli, it is rose-velvet. Dry down reminds me of a less-dirty Agent Provocateur original fragrance. Jill hands me a sample size to try later, as I’m not sure.

I smell ALL the Cire Truedon candles from their glass cloches that house them. I pop “Ernesto” on the counter, embarrassed at the pile forming. Purchase #3

In the front corner, I’m right besides the Mona Di Orio range. Gah! “I’ve read about these too!” Les Nombres D’or Violette Fumee stops me in my tracks. So elegant, violet, soft but not sweet. Mediterranean lavender, Calabrian bergamot, oak moss from the Balkans, Egyptian violet flowers and leaves, Turkish rose, Haitian vetiver, clary sage, opoponax, cashmeran and myrrh.

Jill tells me the story of how before Mona Di Orio sadly passed away; she designed this rose/tobacco/suede and violet piece for her Co-founder Jeroenu Oude Sougoteu, whom after she died, generously decided to share it as a tribute to her. Jill is full of these stories. She really knows her stuff!

It’s been an hour and 45 minutes of serious olfactory fun. As I pay for my items, Jill shoves more mystery samples in my bag, and I scurry off happy, loaded with even more new things to discover when I get home.

Thanks Jill!

Ainslie Walker X

All Photos (Perfume Porn) Donated Ainslie Walker

Agent Provocateur FATALE / FATALE PINK launch

November 18, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 6 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

Hey APJers, remember recently, that night, full of heavy rain, flash floods, sideways downpours, thunder, lightening and hail in Sydney? That night I attended the Agent Provocateur Fatale fragrances launch at Carousel Bar in Kings Cross.

Agent Provocateur FATALE / FATALE PINK launch

Entering the club in my water-filled heels, I was spritzed with FATALE PINK fresh and light it struck me as different to the Agent Provocateur fragrances I already knew.

Gathered were TV personalities from The Bachelor, foodie Rick Stein, beauty editors, PR people and Fragrances of the World lovelies, Anna and Virginia. We had a giggle, ate canapés and “stalked” Rick together – he partook in a 30 minute conversation with us about fragrance, flavors, travel and food – a highlight of the night.

Newly designed bottles were on display, a big change from porcelain curves of past fragrances. Marketing blurb says the facets reflect the many sides of a woman’s personality…not at all original, but pretty. Boxes are indented stylishly, a nod to fishnet stockings and very Agent Provocateur!

In the background, a seductive Agent Provocateur film was projected, staring Monica Cruz. The evening was relaxed, glamorous and cool.

Fatale by Jean-Marc Chaillan for Agent Provocateur

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Pink pepper, black currant, mango
Heart: Patchouli, orris, gardenia
Base: Vanilla orchid, musk, chocolate, labdanum

Mango- juicy and ripe, in a bed of vanilla, and chocolate, hinting at seduction but not as sultry and distinctive as expected. Pink pepper fizzes with the mango. Blackcurrant, tart with a dollop of cream. Patchouli? I’d say a touch of maltol / fairy floss in there too. Musk and orris come out to play after 30 minutes or so. Lasting power of 4 hours. It’s fun, I suppose it’s sexy, but not in the way Agent Provocateur’s first fragrances were- they were naughty and daring. Agent Provocateur has stepped into mainstream terrain. Within an hour I am reminded of Coco Mademoiselle. I have none to hand right now to compare, but somehow it nods in that direction…fresh, fruit, sweet and isoE!

In “the naughties” I was a party girl living in London – out EVERY night- obsessed with Agent Provocateur underwear. Gifted Chanel’s Mademoiselle and I wore it, a touch of fun glamour. Today I am more likely to be wearing Chanel clothing and add this fun Agent Provocateur fragrance on top, nodding back to those fun days!!

Fatale Pink by Jean-Claude Delville for Agent Provocateur

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Tangerine, pear blossom, yuzu, whipped cream
Heart: Datura flower, white camellia, pink lotus
Base: Bamboo, musk, black saffron

This fragrance was released for the Asian market and they’ve nailed it! I would wear this on a hot humid day, it’s watery and light. I love the pear notes. Gritty like tinned pears. The other notes give a pretty, white cream floral and fresh blur. Tangerine gives soft citrus. It’s easy to wear, easy to gift, clean, perfect for summer. Unobtrusive. Hours later there is a surprising sudden floral peak. There is a “thinness”- I think pink lotus has that effect, but with cream, and interesting sounding notes like saffron and datura I would expect a denser scent. Enigmatic and glamorous could describe this, but seductive? Introverted, innocent seduction- a hugely new direction for this usually racy brand. Perhaps we are to experience the many facets of seduction and provocation from this brand? From innocent, pretty and clean, right through to hot, foxy and downright naughty!!

Ainslie Walker x

The 2nd Annual Art And Olfaction Awards 2014 – open for entries!!

November 16, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 3 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

The 2nd Annual Art And Olfaction Awards 2014 – open for entries!!

It’s year 2 of the inaugural Art and Olfaction Awards. Last year the Jordan told us all about the awards inhis Australian Perfume Junkies post

Submissions have been trickling in since November 3rd 2014 and entries need to be postmarked by the 19th December 2014 to be in with a chance. The winner will be announced in April 2015.

Perfumes must have been released to market between January 1 and Dec 31, 2014 and can be entered into the Independent Award and/or the Artisan Award. For both of these categories, 2 perfumes will be picked from 5 finalists.

Excitingly this year there is a new category: The Sadakichi Award For Experimental Scent – This award aims to reward the work of people who engage with scent outside of commercial perfumery. One award will be presented out of five finalists

The Judges: Independent and Artisan Awards (preliminary)

• Ashley Eden Kessler
• Brent Leonesio
• Daniel Krasofski
• Hank Jenkins
• James McHugh
• Laura Johnson
• Neal Harris
• Persephenie Lea
• Steven Gontarski
• Sherri Sebastian
• Yvettra Grantham

The Judges: Independent and Artisan Awards (finals)

• Christophe Laudamiel
• Luca Turin
• Mandy Aftel
• Miriam Vareldzis
• Sarah Horowitz-Thran

The judges for the independent and artisan categories will review entries completely blind with submissions being tracked only by numbers. Text will be provided by the entrants, which explains their intentions for the scent and for the judges to contextualize what they are smelling.

The Judges: Sadakichi Award For Award For Experimental Scent

The Experimental Category judges will select the five finalists, as well as the winner.
• Allison Agsten
• Bettina Hubby
• Dr. Kóan Jeff Baysa
• Marcos Lutyens
• Mark Allen

The twitter handle for the awards is https://twitter.com/AOAwards
The Facebook is https://www.facebook.com/ArtandOlfactionAwards
General Awards website: artandolfactionawards.com

Info about the submissions process: http://artandolfactionawards.com/submission2015/
Info about 2015 Judges: http://artandolfactionawards.com/submission2015/2015judges/
Info about the categories (we’ve added one– experimental!): http://artandolfactionawards.com/submission2015/submission-categories/

GOOD LUCK!!

O’DRIÙ: Art in Olfaction

November 4, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 19 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

One morning in July 2014 Angelo Orazio Pregoni aka O’DRIÙ woke up with an idea – a wet dream, so to speak.

“WHAAAT?” I hear you ask.

O’DRIÙ: Art in Olfaction

Via email he told me his idea of Wet Dream-Coming Perfumery was based on a search for new expressive horizons, free of limitations. He included a video link and a promise that some of his weird yet wonderful sounding fragrances were in the post to me from Italy.

His video was released during Milan Fashion week in response to Vogue and New York Times criticism that the event “lacked novelty.” It shows a live performance of the initial creation of N°1 PI-SCIANEL by eccentric nose and artist Pregoni and N°2 PI-SCIANEL by Tom Rebl, fashion designer. The N°5 performance was showcased at Pitti Fragranze, an Italian event which gathers the best in artistic perfumery.

Here we see them empty a bottle each of Chanel N°5, fill them with Peety (a conceptual art in the form of perfume, customizable with 10 drops of pee) and add to this their own urine. (Errm gross!)

The duo’s only rule is to break the barriers that prevent communication of new ideas. With perfumes N°5 and PI-SCIANEL together with O’DRIÙ, Pregoni attempts to revolutionize niche perfumery via his artistic path and olfactory research. All the while provoking debate and controversy, leaving no one indifferent.

The following (as he puts it) “contemporary artworks” arrive in the post a week later, along with some strange marketing items:
1. Pathetique – 2014 A woody aromatic featuring tuber, bergamot, incense, juniper berry, black pepper, woody notes, oakmoss, mimosa, vetiver and amyris
2. Peety – 2013 A floral woody musk with top notes of jasmine, rose, tobacco leaf and moss; middle notes are mandarin orange, bitter orange, amber, cinnamon and pink pepper; base notes are patchouli, sandalwood and tonka bean
3. Eva Kant – 2013 An oriental spice for women with top notes of grapefruit, lavender and wood; middle notes are myrrh, sandalwood, ginger, magnolia and ylang-ylang; base notes are chamomile, cardamom, vanilla and benzoin

If scent as art and design is seen as a whole concept along with structure, perfume is then the result of a creative process which represents an expression in its entirety and has a value or disvalue in its totality. Pregoni believes “olfactory analysis of a perfume is subcultural distortion. Perfume should not be described through its ingredients, only through olfactory vibrations and oscillations of emotions, not smells.” Further pondering his work we can absorb the performance; the dream, the coming, the awakening/realization/reality, “the mess”(!!) and of what it still might become.

If we can reprogram ourselves from the clichés of mass-market perfumery in order to reignite our “paleo” (Palaeolithic) sensations and emotions, we can believe that olfactory “orgasms” do awaken us from sensory numbness and bring us into abstract reality. A “wet dream” – complete before we even register it as real?

Is this what Pregoni is saying? With “coming perfumery” he wanted to create a perfume that “lives” one step ahead of the present, whose identity is defined by what it will be tomorrow much more than what it is in the moment it is being observed.

Ainslie Walker

The Architects Club by Yann Vasnier for Arquiste 2014

November 1, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 5 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

Melbourne, the 6th November in Peony Carlos Hubert will launch The architect’s club and a new L’Etrog. Contact Jill in the store for details!

Sydney, the 19th November for a Sydney Perfume Lovers Meetup

The Architects Club by Yann Vasnier for Arquiste 2014

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

The Architects Club starts fresh, cool and billowing – soft vanilla, pith-like with orange and lemon rind that fizzes like its just been dropped into tonic. It crackles a little, peppery in nature, though not sharp, rather cushioned. Immediately I realize its firmly unisex. The next stage is tart, astringent. A London Gin cocktail gives a backbone of robust juniper berries.

There’s something slightly musty and resinous on the up – Amber, old books. My mind darts to member’s club lounge chairs –Chesterfields and the like, fireplace in the distance, no smoke, but woody wafts. I remember interiors of Home House and Royal Automobile Club in London – heritage listed clubs that mix stuffy and traditional with opulent, cool and modern. Modern food and drinks served with finesse in comfy rooms that feel like they hold much heritage. Even empty its possible to hear the chatter of times gone by in the high ceilings of these places. The odour of cigars still seems seeps from somewhere. A few women must have visited here wearing Shalimar, as vanilla continues to billow.

The scent of Hotel bars Claridge’s and The Berkeley are captured. “It’s a London thing” as They say and it’s one of the reasons to go there if you haven’t already.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

An astringent oak wood note and something herbal, almost aniseedic comes to my attention. I’m reminded of my favorite pub in Soho with its oak interior The French House, serving only half pints, as it’s “a Gentlemen’s Pub” even to this day. Looking up the notes I realize its pepperwood, oak and Guaicwood and clary sage giving a distinctive smell. It’s dapper and timeless. I can see it suiting an English Dandy from years ago to a man in a suit to this day off to work in Sydney.

Its distinctive, solid and luminously light, making it not too over bearing or strong for an office, and certainly comfortable. A balmy Amber fragrance. I rarely wear vanilla, but with the woods, herbs and juniper in balance, I’m enjoying the ride. It’s extremely wearable. You could wear it to work, and out after for an alfresco meal. Smart whilst hinting at fun.

Overall I’ve made myself homesick for London. Which is a good result, as where many fragrances claim to smell like London, this is the first one I have tried which actually transports me straight there.

Ainslie Walker x

Michael Edwards + J'Adore by DIOR 1999

October 21, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 10 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

Recently I attended a Sydney Perfume Lovers meet up; a live interview of Michael Edwards, by Clayton from What Men Should Smell Like and Catherine from Scent of Choice.

It was a fantastic, intimate evening! – Michael really opened up telling us personal stories from his childhood in Malawi, and his most memorable smell from there (Tamboti wood) along with much more on his fabulous career, industry secrets and future book releases. (Covered previously on APJ with an Interview and story about the Fragrances Of the World book)

Photo Donated Clayton

Bringing along my copy of Michael’s out of print “Perfume Legends” book which he signed was a super highlight of the night.

Photo Donated Ainslie Walker

We were all gifted, a couture-inspired J’adore Eau De Parfum refillable purse spray from Dior, of which, I have been wearing regularly much to my surprise. Perhaps it’s the link to a wonderful and memorable evening – I am enjoying this perfume.

J’Adore by Calice Becker for DIOR 1999

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Magnolia, melon, peach, pear, mandarin, bergamot
Heart: Freesia, orchid, rose, violet, lily of the valley, plum, jasmine, tuberose
Base: Musk, vanilla, cedar, blackberry

It’s clean, fresh and easy to wear. It packs a punch (meaning it’s very strong) but since the notes are clean and rounded and not too heavy on the aquatic and fruit notes – I can handle it, and so I imagine, could peers in the office or bus. The scent is full-bodied and floral – not the thin scents I often find on the “mainstream” shelf. They say it contains only the finest raw ingredients, and perhaps this is true! It feels modern and womanly and kind of easy to wear. It shimmers. Dior’s website quote Ylang Ylang, Damask Rose and Jasmin Sambac as the main notes, but I’m getting bergamot, jasmine, some green fresh notes, magnolia? More white floral, hydroxycitronellal/lily of the valley, peach and marine notes. Possibly some sandalwood molecules giving it some oomph.

I’m going to call this “womanly, modern glamour” – its definitely full of modern synthetics, and quality naturals. It’s very clean. Dior markets this fragrance to be “the incarnation of absolute femininity”. I interpret it as “modern femininity” – a glamorous mother on a school run, an easy to wear, powerful office scent – strongly feminine, but not too much of a statement. Practical. Somehow it motivates me. If I rated “femininity” by bra styles, it would be a radiantly white, cotton bra. It suggests the modern woman is active, out there doing things, being practical, showing strength. If it were office clothing it would be a crisp white shirt and tailored slacks. Slightly androgynous, hair pulled back with lipstick. I wouldn’t rule it out to be worn by a man. For me, it would not be something I would wear if I had anything romantic planned.
In saying that it is good to explore all of ones facets, and this fragrance would indeed be sexy to many. It could be the smell of a work/office fantasy woman. *Throws off glasses, lets down hair whilst flicking it etc. etc. It could DEFINITELY be the smell of a daytime bride.

Further reading: Australian Perfume Junkies and Bois de Jasmin
FragranceNet has the most fabulous refillable EdP spray bottle $110/75ml before coupon
My Perfume Samples starts at $3/ml

J’Adore is popular because it’s lovely, and I am glad to have now given it a go. What’s your take on this popular frag?
Ainslie Walker XX