Eau de Magnolia by Carlos Benaim for Frederic Malle 2014

July 21, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 19 Comments

Post by TinaG

It is magnolia season here in Sydney, the wonderful lush simple blooms are opening up all over town and I’ve been pressing my nose to as many as possible trying to build up a scent memory of this gorgeous flower.

Eau de Magnolia by Carlos Benaïm for Frédéric Malle 2014

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot
Heart: Magnolia, vetiver, patchouli
Base: Cedar, moss, amber

Eau de Magnolia is seducingly ethereal. It lives and breathes in the wisps of its silage, turning and teasing, flashing hints of scent which last as long as a breath.

I can understand people dismissing this fragrance quickly because of the familiarity of the top notes and the cologne nature. I nearly made that mistake too. But it is much more subtle and complex than that. It needs to be on skin, paper would do it no good at all. It also needs to be given a lot of air, sprayed at a distance, and needs a few wearings. The continuity of the fragrance is in the cool lemon, the warm magnolia, and a general ‘greeness”. It also has an aquatic aspect, but not marine, just open and clear. But the magic of this fragrance is in the way it changes.

Photo Stolen Pixabay

Over the top of the green/lemon strand, I get whiffs of different things – pepper, bergamot, lemon, moss, vetiver…. The image I get in my head is like playing with a heavy silk sheet, there is a linearity to it (the lemon/green base ) but when it moves, it has a mind of its own and it slides like a liquid. And like silk, different parts may catch the light and shimmer at different times. But it also can’t be forced, I gave myself a headache sniffing my wrist, but sniffing 20cm away worked wonders.

I also can’t exactly say how it opens – my first wearing it was all fresh lemon, the second, bergamot and today it’s all about grapefruit. I strongly suspect that it would blossom more in summer too, not really a winter scent. I find myself standing at the window, looking at the crisp blue winter sky and longing for the warmer summer months.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

I became enamoured with the magnolia fragrance last summer, having been introduced to Magnolia Grandiflora – Sandrine, and Michel, so much so that I purchased a full bottle of Sandrine. By way of comparison to Eau de Magnolia, Michel is the closer match with its waxy warmth, whilst Sandrine is crisp and dewy, said to mirror a magnolia bud waiting to burst open. Because of the depth of sillage of Eau de Magnolia, I can’t wear them side by side, it’s too confusing and I’m not sure what smells I’m getting from where. And to be honest, sometimes you don’t want to pick apart a fragrance too much, I just want to wear them and enjoy the added beauty and dimension they bring to my day.

Photo Stolen Pixabay

Another mistake I nearly made with Eau de Magnolia is that I originally thought that it lasted two hours on my skin. Not the case. I wore it to work, kept smelling lovely florals that were slowly turning woodsy, and after a gruelling 10 hour day I noticed wisps of fragrance still emanating from my chest. It was very comforting. Such a versatile and beautiful scent – I’m a fan.

Frederic Malle Europe has 3 x 10ml/€85 (Perfect for splitting)
Frederic Malle USA has 3 x 10ml/$125
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $7/ml

Who of you readers has tried Eau de Magnolia? Impressions?

Tina xx

South Korean Fragrance Shopping II: Photo Essay

July 10, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 16 Comments

Post by TinaG

Hi AJP,

On our recent trip to South Korea in May 2014, I had a chance to pick up some local fragrances as a reminder of some of the great places we had the opportunity to visit. Here’s a quick run down of two brands.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

South Korean Fragrance Shopping II

Location: JeJu Island, Brand: Tammora

Photo Donated by TinaG

South Korea’s JeJu Island lies south of the mainland in the East China Sea, and is a popular romance and honeymoon destination. The island is volcanic in origin, and dotted with the peaks of multiple volcanic vents with the spectacular Mount Hallasan dominating the skyline. The island is well known for its stunningly beautiful sun rises. There is a type of volcanic rock which has little bubbles all the way through it like an aero chocolate bar, and this material is used abundantly in building walls around the island. It is also used to carve “Old Grandfather” statues, Dol Hareubang, which are the main symbol of Jeju Island. These statues are stout, hands on bellies, and have a mushroom shaped hat. Another romantic feature of JeJu is the fields of yellow rape seed flowers – please don’t get caught up over the plants name, it just is what it is. You may have heard of canola, which is the genetically modified version of the rape plant and is commonly utilised to make canola oil. We were lucky enough to visit in late May when the beautiful fields of rape were in full bloom.

Photos Donated by TinaG

At one of the tourist shops I was pleased to find some local perfumes, marketed under the JeJu Tammora brand, “Tammora” being one of the previous names given to the island. I grabbed myself two bottles, one of rape flowers, and one of orchid which was in the shape of the island’s Old Grandfather statues. The orchid was a pretty cool, soft and powdery floral, but I had no frame of reference for the rape flower fragrance. Luckily, on the way home the next day we stopped and had a chance to wander through a field of the metre-high plants in full bloom. Their scent is difficult to describe, as subtle as a breath of wind, green and sweet – and it was quite accurately reflected in the perfume albeit in a more concentrated form.

Photo Stolen EtudeHouse

Location: Busan, Brand: Etude House

Etude House is a playful chain of stores filled to the brim with cosmetics including the famous BB cream foundation. The first one we visited in Busan was a treat, pink and sweet and oh so cute! They have an adorable range of mini fragrances based on “romance” slogans “Why Not Me”, “Love Me Forever”, “Before You Go” etc… that kind of thing.

Photo Donated by TinaG

I chose to pick up “Bite Me”. Ha! Love the ambiguity in that statement. One spray releases a sherbet-fizzy grapefruit, fresh and sparkling, as dizzying as an unexpected kiss. Simple fun, and you can imagine scores of young girls picking up a few bottles from this range.

Photo Donated by TinaG

I’m glad I picked up a few cheap and cheerful fragrances during the holiday, it was a special way of bringing home a few extra memories of the trip!

Tina G

Muschio by Santa Maria Novella + Korea Photo Essay

June 19, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 13 Comments

Post by TinaG

Hi APJ!

We’ve recently returned from an amazing trip to South Korea – Portia, Jin, Kath, Matt and I travelled around for about two weeks having an absolute ball in a wonderful & welcoming country. Before we left, I had a few chats and did some research on what fragrances I may have access to that I wouldn’t normally get my hands on in Australia. One of the names which came up was Santa Maria Novella, which I happily discovered has a flagship store in Seoul.

“Officina Profumo – Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella” is one of the world’s oldest pharmacies. Originally established in Florence, Italy in 1221 by Dominican Friars, who created herbal potions and remedies for use in their monastery, the pharmacy was opened up to the public in 1612. The original Florence pharmacy still stands, with all of their products continuing to be hand made at their Florence factory site utilising old recipes and classic artisanal methods.

The South Korean store in Seoul is located near pretty Dosan Park in an upmarket shopping district within Gangnam-Gu. We were greeted and kindly looked after by the shop hostesses. I made a beeline for the colognes whilst Portia explored all of the other wonderful goodies on display.

From Fragrantica: Santa Maria Novella is one of the oldest pharmacies in the world. It was opened in Florence, Italy in 1612, taking the formulas of Dominican friars that originate from 13th century.

Their products are all the types of things you may expect to find in an apothecary: high quality and beautifully presented soaps, fragrances, herbal extracts and essences, side by side with more modern home items such as wax candles and dog & cat grooming collection. I could so easily have stayed there for hours on end, but I did manage to get my nose to a fair few bottles including the recently released Alba de Seoul which had a refreshing pine needle note, a nod to the cultural importance of the South Korean pine trees. I wished I could have taken more home, but I decided to treat myself to a full bottle of ….

Muschio by Santa Maria Novella

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Musk, powdery notes

Muschio is a really gorgeous comforting scent and has quickly become my go-to fragrance this winter. Although technically a cologne, Muschio isn’t one of those which can be splashed on liberally or needs refreshing every couple of hours – there is no need as it has very good longevity and silage. On opening there is a predominant puff of musk with slightly woody undertones, a touch of vanilla and a ghost of lemon hovering over the top. The musk is nothing animalic but it light and airy. The dry white wood in the background keeps it from being overly candy-shop sweet, giving it a lovely powdery feel. It doesn’t change appreciably in dry down, although the musk softens and the woods become more prominent. I also get a cinnamon-stick note, spicy wood without the peppery kick, adding to the warmth.

The visit to Santa Maria Novella was a fragrant highlight of a fantastic holiday. I’m so glad I purchased Muschio, it holds a dozen happy memories for me along with the continued enjoyment of a really fabulous cologne.

Do you have a fragrant holy-grail location that you’ve managed to visit, or wish to? Here are some pics of mine.

TinaG

Flashback by Olivier Cresp for Olfactive Studio 2013

June 5, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 4 Comments

Post by TinaG

Perfume holds a vision of truth – a truth which can strike deeply to our core, a trigger which can bring to the surface a crazy mix of visions in a flash of memory, borne only from a single, deep breath. It is such a personal sensation, that rush, corners of the mouth relaxing into a smile and just the enjoyment of being swept away in an all-encompassing pure experience, if only for a few moments.

One of the challenges I find is conveying that feeling, those emotions to other people. How do you capture that? You can’t photograph a smell, but you can convey the sense of a moment through an image. Sometimes we write beautifully crafted landscapes to try and explain what it is that we are experiencing – I think that is often the most successful way, but ultimately one may need to go on that experience themselves to see whether they agree, disagree, or are led down a completely different olfactory path.

Flashback by Olivier Cresp for Olfactive Studio 2013

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Rhubarb, orange, grapefruit
Heart: Granny Smith apple, pink pepper
Base: Vetiver, cedar, amber, musk

Olfactive Studio’s fragrances have taken a different approach to their scent creations, by starting with photographic art, and creating a fragrance which reflects that moment. Sometimes I get it, like the half-light of a distant hotel room with Chambre Noir, other times I’ve been taken my own journey like the amazingly visual images I got whilst testing Still Life – albeit quite different from the photograph Still Life was created in conjunction with. And I’m OK with that, it is all part of the story.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

So here on another Olfactive Studio journey, I give my wrists a light dewy dusting of Flashback, allowing the fragrance plenty of breathing space. The reward is a whoosh of gentle pink pepper and a deep moist green rhubarb. The rhubarb here is freshly picked, the stem snapped in half with juices flowing. This fresh bitterness is countered and lifted by the beautiful understated warmth and sweetness of the pink pepper.

After half an hour it is joined by grapefruit, such as one which has just been cut and squeezed. It is crossing over between smell and taste in a big way as I can feel my tongue tingling from the sharp juiciness. The wallflower orange is shyly floating in the background but never really makes a stand. At two hours cedar comes through along with some pink musk which help soften the citrus, but this seems to fade after an hour and I get the predominant grapefruit back again but this time with a lingering underlying touch of vetiver, and this combination lasts and lasts.

Photo Stolen Flickr

Further reading: The Non Blonde and Olfactoria’s Travels
First In Fragrance have €72/50ml and samples

Libertine Parfumerie has 100ml/$195 including postage within Australia
Peony Melbourne has 100ml/$195

Because of the tanginess of this fragrance I’m considering it for a travel scent, as the rhubarb and citrus would be a refreshing pick-me-up after a long haul flight. So perhaps there may be stories in our future – always happy to make some new & fun memories!

Tina G

Aromatique Essentials – Bespoke Soirée

May 22, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 4 Comments

Post by TinaG

Aromatique Essentials – Bespoke Soirée

Earlier this year I had an opportunity to attend an event hosted by Australian aromatherapist Julie Nelson of Aromatique Essentials. Julie is a holistic aromatherapist, with 20 years’ experience as aromatherapy practitioner and consultant. Julie also shares her wealth of knowledge through education, events and workshops, and leading the design and delivery of aromatherapy and beauty programs held in some of Australia’s natural therapy collages. Aromatique Essentials commits to “providing luxurious bespoke aromatherapy products with unwavering commitment and quality”, which is absolutely the case. Julie is very much committed to holistic beauty practices, and uses the finest quality organic essential oils in her work. One of her many skills is that of developing individually tailored essential oil perfumes. I found the concept fascinating so I was very pleased to be able to attend the Bespoke Soirée in Kirribilli, Sydney.

Photo donated TinaG

On arrival, I realised that this event was not simply about perfumes, but it was fundamentally a celebration of each of us as unique individuals – a focus and reconnection with “self” and recognising our own authenticity. We were greeted with a glass of bubbles and beautifully presented canapés and treats. I chatted to some of the other guests and met some fascinating people, as guests were predominantly from a professional network for women starting up or managing their own businesses. Presentations and talks for the evening were: the art of feminine presence by Maria Cucinotta, Emma Veiga-Malta designs bespoke chairs and cushions, Amanda Webb had some beautiful jewellery, and of course Julie Nelson – we were very spoilt! At the end of the night we were given a little “goodie” bag with samples of two of Julie’s perfumes Déesse and Amrita, a cucumber eye serum, organic cookies and tea, and loads of information.

Julie set up an Aroma Bar on the night, and was offering the creation of a personalised aromatherapy scent based on a short questionnaire, which of course I couldn’t resist. I completed a survey of my colour, scent, food and activity preferences, from which Julie used as a basis to create a 5ml vial of bespoke anointing perfumed oil.

My perfume contained: Sandalwood, Blood Orange, Coriander, Bergamot and Rose in jojoba (organic)

I don’t have much experience with essential oils on skin, so when I tested a few drops of my bespoke essential oil I was surprised to find a distinct top/mid/base notes layering, and evolution of the scent through dry down. There was a lovely fresh rush of a comforting warm orange, with the slightly smoky bergamot intertwined, and a hint of the sandalwood. The coriander oil is sourced from coriander seed, not leaf or stem, which I would have picked up on otherwise – I can’t tolerate green coriander notes. Here, the seed provides a dry spicy counterpoint as the rose starts to shine through. Warm citrus, sandalwood, and spicy rose – Julie really did hit all the right chords for me.

Tina G

Disclaimer: this article was reviewed by Julie Nelson prior to publication.

Photos 1, 3 4 donated TinaG

Photo 2 Aromatique Essentials Facebook Page

Nomad Two Worlds – Raw Spirit Series by Harry Fremont

May 8, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 7 Comments

Post by Tina G

Hi APJ,

After writing an APJ article on Desert Blush, one of the fragrances from Raw Spirit, by Nomad Two Worlds, I thought I’d devote a second article to the other three fragrances I’ve sampled – Wildfire, Bijou Vert, and Citadelle.

Nomad Two Worlds: Raw Spirit: 2014

Bijou Vert, Citadelle, Wildfire

H.J. Johnstone Painting Stolen WikiMedia

Bijou Vert: Nomad Two Worlds

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Haitian vetiver, grapefruit, mandarin, geranium, lotus flower, black pepper, benzoin, patchouli, cedarwood

Bijou Vert is invigorating, bright and bold, opening with a sharp grapefruit tempered with softer mandarin and an earthy, grounding vetiver. This settles down quickly to a wonderfully open aquatic scent, and one that I’m having trouble describing because it is unlike a combination I’ve come across before. I could put it down to the use of lotus flower, however I can’t help wondering if they have used the whole of the lotus plant – flower, stem and root – as that is what I’m getting from this. It’s like a still water pond, one which is teeming with life but is old, with hints of rich life-supporting sediments beneath the deep water. The aquatic floral over the top is shimmering translucent pink, gently inviting. I do get a lemony and peppery bite later on in the dry down, but really it is the vivid imagery of a living forest pond that is the key to this scent.

Citadelle: Nomad Two Worlds

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Haitian vetiver, marigold (tagetes), pear, bergamot, lemon, spices, amberwood, musk, cedarwood

Marigold listed as a note again had me excited to try this fragrance, how unusual! My memory of marigold is a bitter, earthy little flower, they’re quite distinctive. Citadelle, however, is one of those scents which are greater than the sum of its parts. Like its namesake, the scent opens like a beacon of core strength – the lemon juice, watery pear and touch of bergamot initially taking centre stage as juicy tonic that makes you sit up and pay attention. The spicy wood which follows through has a slighty fetid earthy edge which again I can’t pin down to a single note – it is surrounded by the greenness of vetiver & musk. Maybe that is the marigold? Maybe it is the “amberwood”, another note I’ve not heard of before but is apparently a balanced musk/sandalwood/amber. After 2 hours it has settled into a warm woody/spice with nutmeg predominant. I get no cinnamon at all, just a peppery note. Overall it is a clean, green, fresh and well-grounded fragrance, certainly one to use difficult day when you need a pick-me-up and some head-space.

Wildfire: Nomad Two Worlds

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Australian sandalwood, cream, amber, floral notes, ylang-ylang, jasmine petals, cedarwood, musk

Wildfire opens with cedarwood, sandalwood and generous lashings of sweet jasmine. There is a note listed “creamy amber” which I’ve not heard of before but there certainly is a smooth creaminess behind the woods and generous florals, with the rise of musk appearing after about 30 minutes completing a radiant golden glowing scent bubble. This fragrance is one of comforting & slightly heady warmth. The wildfire here is one that flickers in a gaze, burns in the soul, and smoulders beneath a warm embrace.

Photo Stolen DeviantArt

For more buying information visit Nomad Two Worlds site

Fragrances are $35 for 7.5ml Eau de Parfum rollerball

There are interesting humanitarian and environmentally-conscious aspects to the Raw Spirit fragrance line. Of the four fragrances I sampled all donate part of their proceeds to sustainable agricultural projects – Desert Blush and Wild Fire to Indigenous Australian (Aboriginal) projects, with Bijou Vert and Citadelle supporting Haitian projects. Raw Spirit also have a limited edition fragrance, Fire Tree, with part proceeds reinvested in the Nyoongar community of Western Australia.

Which of the three reads most like you might like to try it?

Tina G

Desert Blush by Harry Fremont for Nomad Two Worlds 2014

April 17, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 8 Comments

Post by TinaG

Hi APJ,

Australia is an amazing country, and no part I find more fascinating than the Australian outback. The landscape is incredibly awe-inspiring. I have fallen in love over and over again, with the stretches of ancient dry desert plains, the rocky crags, the unusual endemic plants and animals that call this country home, and the privilege of sharing some of the dreamings of the first people of this land.

Photo Stolen from WikiMedia

I was very interested to hear about a fragrance line, Raw Spirit, from Nomad Two Worlds which includes some classic Australian flora notes such as boronia and Australian sandalwood in their scents.

Desert Blush by Harry Fremont for Nomad Two Worlds 2014

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica Gives these featured accords in one line:
Australian Boronia, ylang-ylang, osmanthus, jasmine petals, violet, Australian sandalwood, musk and cedar wood

A creamy-peach blush of osmanthus strikes the first chord on opening, supported by an ultra-dry cedar and sandalwood that feels like the wood has been has been placed in the searing heat of the day, along with something astringent and banana-like which I can’t readily place. During the next half hour boronia comes through, followed by delicate hints of a sweet violet and jasmine. Boronia is an Australian native plant, typically with small flowers around 1cm in diameter. The image that this scent provides me with is of the brown-yellow flowers, a classic native variety. The scent of boronia is lemony/woody –small waxy flowers on tough wood stems. Boronia as a scent has waned in popularity from a peak the mid-80’s where it was found in fragrant household products like guest bathroom soaps – you rarely see it around these days which is why I was excited to see it listed as a note.

Photo Stolen Flickr

Desert Blush is described as being inspired by the Western Australian Desert at sunset. The image that Desert Blush brings to me is one of the mulga woodlands, dry red earth with tough scrubby plants and grasses, but plenty of them. The way the scent dries down really does remind me of being outside in the outback as evening falls – the woody notes take a step back, the softer floral scents which had been baked away in the sun’s heat are allowed to breath in the slowly cooling air. Longevity in this fragrance and the Raw Spirit range is excellent – after settling, it stays on my skin for at least 8 hours and I still get hints on my skin if I’ve left it on overnight.

Photo Stolen MichaelSeebeck

The approach which Russell James, the founder of Nomad Two Worlds, has taken with the project’s art, photography, and products is one of cultural respect and authenticity, ensuring that Indigenous artists receive royalties for their work, and donating 10% of profits to the Nomad Two Worlds Foundation for support of artists from Indigenous and marginalised communities around the globe.

Nomad Two worlds has $35/7.5ml EdP

The fragrance line of Raw Spirit stays closely within the framework of supporting communities. Of the four fragrances I sampled all donate part of their proceeds to sustainable agricultural projects – Desert Blush and Wild Fire to Indigenous Australian (Aboriginal) projects, with Bijou Vert and Citadel supporting Haitian projects. Fragrance with a conscience. I like it.

Tina G

Lithium [3Li] by Nicolas Bonneville for nu_be 2012

April 3, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 17 Comments

Post by Tina G

“The perfume becomes, even if only for a few instants, the object of an exclusive and absolute desire.” – nu_be

The concept behind nu_be is an olfactory mapping of the fusions which create matter – the primal sparks of chaos that slowly settle into order and being. nu_be harks to the fundamental building blocks of the universe by creating ‘elemental’ fragrances – hydrogen, helium, lithium, carbon, oxygen, sulphur and mercury.

Lithium [3Li] by Nicolas Bonneville for nu_be 2012

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Cedar, patchouli, musk, saffron, iris, woods, spices, rose

I’m intrigued to smell black rubber when Lithium [3Li] opens. Specifically, inner tube rubber as from a bicycle tyre, being slightly powdery. It is not listed in the notes anywhere but I find it consistently on first spritz. Dancing high over the top is a sharp metallic tang like the smoke and sparks you get when hitting granite with a metal hammer. It is a very light, airy metal, unlike the wet blood-metal in Le Cherche Midi ‘28’ or the metallic-fruitiness in Blood Concept ‘O’.

Deep in the heart of Lithium [3Li] the brown leather is heavy and thick like leather of a welder’s apron – made roughly tactile from the scratches and wearing of its use. After only a short time the rubber has gone but the metal and leather stay on, rounded out by earthy, powdery floral notes of iris and saffron. There is a hint of woods and musk in the background, which become more prominent in the dry down.

Photo Stolen Flickr

The combination makes me think of an old fashioned blacksmith’s workshop. Springtime. In the corner of a green field, surrounded by wildflowers, is a rustic wooden workshop. As you walk in, the fresh scents of the flowers merge with the damp earth floor, wooden beams, and metal tools hanging up around the walls. In the centre of the room is a fire and anvil, and the smithy himself, clean musky sweat of his work shining on his arms, mingling with the heavy leather apron of his trade. As he drops each blow of the hammer, showers of sparks fly randomly in split-seconds of brightness, filling the air with a flinty smoke.

Photo Stolen Fotopedia

At 5 hours Lithium [3Li] is still lively, having warmed up to a comforting woody/spicy rose, with silage strong enough that I wasn’t needing to hunt for the scent on my skin to appreciate it. At this stage it reminded me of another favourite spicy rose fragrance, Pink Quartz by Olivier Durbano. Lithium [3Li] is totally wearable, even for all its interesting industrial opening overtones. I spritzed this 10 minutes before going into a work meeting, and it totally derailed the conversation. Eyes widened, people looked around and asked what the great smell was. One co-worker then spoke about her close encounter with a workman on a train, freshly clocked off, dirty with a clean sweat smell and how desperately sexy it was. I’d said nothing about my thoughts on the fragrance; it was her own random memory trigger from the muskiness of the scent. Unexpected, but interesting…..

Further reading: Now Smell This introduces the line
IndieScents has $160/100ml and samples

xx Tina G

Si by Christine Nagel for Giorgio Armani 2013

March 20, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 5 Comments

Post by TinaG

The beautiful Australian actress Cate Blanchett won the 2014 Academy Award “Best Lead Actress” for her role in the movie Blue Jasmine. Cate is well known and loved in Australia, and particularly in Sydney where she was the Co Artistic Director of the Sydney Theatre Company from 2008-2012. I’ve never met her, but so many of my friends have and absolutely rave about what a goddess she is, stunningly gorgeous and radiant – elegance personified. In 2013 she became the ethereal ‘face’ of Giorgio Armani’s new perfume release

Si by Christine Nagel for Giorgio Armani 2013

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Cassis
Heart: Freesia, may rose
Base: Vanilla, ambroxan, patchouli, woodsy notes

I was given a very generous ‘discovery pack’ of 7ml EDP and a body lotion recently. The juice itself I find is simple and uncomplicated and has a good silage and longevity, however the scent is borderline linear and doesn’t change appreciably on my skin as it dries down. On opening there is a sweet, sugary vanilla and berry stickiness that has a light floral background and this combination is persistent for about two hours. After this time the vanilla is less prominent, and it is all blackcurrant and rose with just a faint hint of something woody in the background. I’m starting to get worried about my nose – twice now I’ve tested perfumes which have patchouli listed in the notes, but I’ve not been able to find it. And I know what patchouli smells like, goodness, it is pretty distinctive as a stand alone oil… so not sure about that.

So after 3 hours, I’ve got a pleasant berry/floral vibe going on. I know ambroxan can be amazing on my skin, but I feel like I’m just waiting for that to kick in and give a twist, and at 4 hours maybe I’m getting hints of it however I’m still having to look hard. The scent becomes a touch more personal. It’s like being at a summer barbecue with friends, and at desert time having a generous helping of pavlova heaped with berries and vanilla cream, then after a while wandering off to a quieter spot for a 1:1 conversation.

All round, I do like it, but it is a sweet and dependable perfume – not sure what the question was, but the answer, sí (yes), is definitely not one borne from the throes of passion. I’ve worn it to work on days where I know I’m going to be ultra-busy and don’t have time for too many distractions. On these same days I’ve also opted for old-faithful flats instead of killer high heels, and worn something comfortable, and I’m not 100% sure I haven’t just grabbed the nearest bottle to dab on as I’ve run out the door.

Now, I’ve seen a similar question asked on another blog but I’m going to repeat it here because I’m interested – if you had to choose any perfume/s for Cate Blanchett to represent, which would you choose?

Tina G xx

Cate Blanchett and Anne Fontaine – A connection – Sì

Behind the Scenes Sì – starring Cate Blanchett

Sì – The film – Giorgio Armani

Chambre Noire by Dorothee Piot for Olfactive Studio 2011

March 6, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 19 Comments

Post by TinaG

Hi APJ,

The concept behind Olfactive Studio is the interplay between imagery and perfume – a picture can tell a thousand words, so can a perfume capture the essence of time and place. It is this junction where the two meet that is Olfactive Studio’s creative space. Each of Olfactive Studio’s five fragrances are the result of teamwork between a photographer and a perfumer, working together to capture not only a moment, but the interplay of thought and emotion around that moment.

Photo Stolen Olfactive Studio

Chambre Noire by Dorothee Piot for Olfactive Studio 2011

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Schinus (pink peppercorn)
Heart: Jasmine, papyrus, violet, incense, prune
Base: Sandalwood, patchouli, musk, vanilla, leather

Chambre Noire is another name for “Camera Obscura”, the first type of box camera using pinhole light exposure so there is a bit of mystery, play of light and dark and what is revealed in shadowy corners. The photograph that this fragrance was designed in conjunction with is a barely lit hotel room, the reflections revealing more about the room itself than the direct view.

On first opening I get a big waft of violet and sandalwood and what I think is amber, although it is not listed in the notes. Within 10 minutes the violet had dropped away, with incense, shinus and a woody scent that I can’t really place. Schinus is the genus of pink peppercorns, and are not related to ‘true’ pepper, in that pink pepper does not contain the fiery piperine of true pepper. Shinus has warm, fragrant, bright and uplifting qualities. I managed to get hold of some the other day, and could quite happily chew a few pink berries without my mouth slowly catching on fire.

Photo Stolen WikiMedia

After 2 hours the violet & light florals make a return, along with some very gentle leather and the sandalwood humming in the background. A warm sensual mix, in a kick off your high heels & chat over a glass of wine kind of way. The feeling I get from it is more one of companionship rather than a mysterious liaison, like winding down for the day, but with enough of a zing in the air to keep conversation flowing.

The dry down at 4 hours has musk and vanilla joining sandalwood, which gently linger until it fades to a faint memory. I would wear Chambre Noir when going out with a small group of friends on weekends, or give myself a pick-me-up spritz in anticipation of Friday night after-work drinks.

Photo Stolen Olfactive Studio

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and Smelly Thoughts
First In Fragrance has €125/100ml and €4/3ml samples
Olfactive Studio has $195/100ml Delivered to Australia

Have you tried Olfactive Studio’s fragrances? Did any of them stand out for you?

Tina G xx

Australian Perfume Junkies

Olfactory Opinions from Oz

TinaG

Eau de Magnolia by Carlos Benaim for Frederic Malle 2014

Eau de Magnolia by Carlos Benaïm for Frédéric Malle 2014

South Korean Fragrance Shopping II: Photo Essay

South Korean Fragrance Shopping II

Location: JeJu Island, Brand: Tammora

Location: Busan, Brand: Etude House

Muschio by Santa Maria Novella + Korea Photo Essay

Muschio by Santa Maria Novella

Flashback by Olivier Cresp for Olfactive Studio 2013

Flashback by Olivier Cresp for Olfactive Studio 2013

Aromatique Essentials – Bespoke Soirée

Aromatique Essentials – Bespoke Soirée

Nomad Two Worlds – Raw Spirit Series by Harry Fremont

Nomad Two Worlds: Raw Spirit: 2014

Bijou Vert, Citadelle, Wildfire

Bijou Vert: Nomad Two Worlds

Citadelle: Nomad Two Worlds

Wildfire: Nomad Two Worlds

Desert Blush by Harry Fremont for Nomad Two Worlds 2014

Desert Blush by Harry Fremont for Nomad Two Worlds 2014

Lithium [3Li] by Nicolas Bonneville for nu_be 2012

Lithium [3Li] by Nicolas Bonneville for nu_be 2012

Si by Christine Nagel for Giorgio Armani 2013

Si by Christine Nagel for Giorgio Armani 2013

Cate Blanchett and Anne Fontaine – A connection – Sì

Behind the Scenes Sì – starring Cate Blanchett

Sì – The film – Giorgio Armani

Chambre Noire by Dorothee Piot for Olfactive Studio 2011

Chambre Noire by Dorothee Piot for Olfactive Studio 2011