Saturday Question: What Was You First Niche Full Bottle?

.

Portia

.

Hello Fellow Fumies,

At APJ we have a Saturday Question. Everyone gets to chime in with an answer, chat with other responders and it’s a fun event each week. Taking sides never means taking offence and everyone keeps it respectful and light, even though we can sometimes trawl the depths.

The idea is you’ll see it on the weekend or chime in through the week. Hopefully you will come back regularly and see if anyone has responded to your comment and you can reply to them. The aim is to generate real conversation and connection even though we are scattered around the globe.

 

Continue reading

Being John Biebel.

.

Kate Apted

.

Years ago I saw a quirky film called ‘Being John Malkovich’. It involved a portal to enable people to enter the mind of John Malkovich, the esteemed actor. Not being in the least arty myself, I am intrigued at how artists think, and such a literal portal would allow me to enter an artist’s mind. Kind of creepy an idea, I know, but it would be the closest I could get to producing art and the thought processes that occur in its production.

Of all the perfumers whose work I admire, it comes as no surprise to me that many are multi media artists. Teone Reinthal paints and works with video production, Andy Tauer draws and is involved in his entire image, and John Biebel works in IT and paints in a variety of styles.

John is the visionary of a brand called January Scent Project. He has produced 5 eau de parfums and 2 oils to date.

You may know of John from his Fragrantica articles and editorial contributions. I think it was through Ida Meister’s 2016 Fragrantica interview of John I first learned of John’s perfumes (link here). Smitten with Ida’s operatic writing style, I promptly ordered a sample set of John’s first three scents.

Ida and John

Ida Meister and John Biebel. Photo credit: Fragrantica.

The names of these scents give away the style of perfumery John has employed. Eiderantker, Smolderose and Selperniku are not of French provenance, in name and smell. They are decidedly modern, almost avant garde and come from John’s soul. Only someone like John could imagine such blends of notes and make them work. John has pushed the limits of what contemporary perfumery is capable of and I look forward to every scent he creates.

JSP

Photo credit: Fragrantica

I must admit I felt incredibly challenged by both Eiderantler and Selperniku. I spent a good week with each of them and studied every nuance like I do any building by Tadao Ando. Complexity abounds in each sniff, though I am reaching for a unified, simplified understanding I can grasp in one smell. John’s scents are not like that. From afar, one can determine they are JSP scents, but up close, each one brings a near sensory overload. A most welcome feature indeed, for JSP scents are not mundane in any way.

I find Selperniku a textural and sensory delight. In fact, all John’s scents are, but Selperniku is more so. It contains seemingly competitive notes, such as salt, tangy apricot, creamy butter and a host of things that should bump against each other in ways to repel, but they do not. I seek out the taste of the salt, I want to feel the sun kissed fuzzy skin of the apricots and I think of that rich butter melting between my fingers. Together, Selperniku has me come back for more; wanting to discover what else lies beneath.

Then there is the decadent, sensual, smoky Smolderose. Funnily, I love the scent more after I have worn it to bed and it lingers on my pillow case in the morning. My skin must amplify the smoke and the rose to make an alluring scent that is intensely boudoir. Not a high top note in sight, yet its bassy heft is complete.

John’s more recent release, Vaporocindro, is a light hearted play on crisp green notes, waxy lilac that reads violet, and florals. It flits around in a non linear way and catches notes in the same way the sun is reflected off shiny surfaces on a warm summer morning. This an aspect of John that took me by surprise; especially as his next release was a quiet, masculine, reflective scent.

Mr Biebel has me intrigued as to what lies inside his mind. If these cacophonous, contemplative, Jackson Pollckesque scents came from within, what more exists in that magnificent mind of his? It has to suffice that the closest I will get to experiencing what it is to be John Biebel is to smother myself in one of his perfumes and allow my own mind to wander where it will. Maybe that is the point to JSP? To have me want to discover what lies within me and concern myself less with others?

Have you tried any of John’s  January Scent Project perfumes? If so, what do you take from them? And what of the film, Being John Malkovich?

Til next time, droogies,

Kate xx

The Electric Perfume Acid Test

.

Val the Cookie Queen

.

“She comes in colours everywhere, she combs her hair, she’s like a rainbow ..”  1967.  The Rolling Stones.

Hey Happy Trippers

Perfume is my drug of choice, these days at least.   As I was writing up my recent psychedelic special in Strange Tales Part II,  I got to thinking about what fragrances I consider as trippy.

Do colours smell?  Are they light, or dark, or sparkly?  Do they appear in layers?  Do they move?  Can you taste them?

The Electric Perfume Acid Test

Continue reading

Incense Rose by Andy Tauer for Tauer Perfumes 2008

.

Portia

.

Hiya Fragrance Lovers,

Andy Tauer was my first niche perfume buy. He holds a special place in my heart because he was a pioneer. He let us see into his process of creating fragrance via his blog and opened a whole new world of ideas. What he was creating was revolutionary. That was the early days of niche and indie perfumes. We are so spoiled by a unbelievable onslaught of newness that I think it’s important to remind you all of some historically great perfumes that may become swamped and overlooked. Incense rose is one such, I’ve had this bottle ever since Andy first brought out the 3 x 15ml Explorer Set. Not sure why I never reviewed it. Remiss.

Incense Rose by Tauer Perfumes 2008

Incense Rose by Andy Tauer

Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, Clementine, Cardamom, Wild rose
Heart: Castoreum, Orris root, Frankincense
Base: Myrrh, Patchouli, Vetiver, Texas cedar

Sweet roses and jams, a zingy, bright and slightly green opening. All the citrus cut through pretty quickly by incense and iris but that just serves two highlight the fizzy drink nature of the top notes and ground them. For something that smells so strong initially Incense rose is remarkably diffuse smelling too. It’s huge but not overpowering or ferocious, more like a big friendly but well behaved dog.

06 Incense Rose Tauer Perfumes Incense_coils WikiMediaPDI

 

As the wood slides in under the rosy animalic incense, it seems to dry Incense Rose out. This is my favourite part of the fragrance. Still lightly sweet florals with a hint of urinous but now it’s contained in a box. I get mental images of wooden walled saunas.

Longevity is excellent and for the first hour or so the scent is quite large, then it dips back to a soft focus blur of scent. Still sweet rosy but now much attenuated and it’s incense with the upper hand and grassy woods.

06 Incense Rose Tauer Perfumes Incense_coils WikiMediaWikiMedia

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and I Smell Therefore I Am
Men’s Biz has $209/50ml
Surrender To Chance has samples from $4/0.5ml

What is your Tauer of preference?
Portia xx

Carillon Pour Un Ange by Andy Tauer for Tauer Perfumes 2010

.

Kate Apted

.

Voice of an Angel!

Oh, sorry…I mean Carillon Pour Un Ange by Andy Tauer

My deepest welcome to you APJers,

The world isn’t making much sense to me right now. I am watching my boys grow up with a lack of innocence I had at their age. While I sit outside and watch the birds go about their nest building business, my boys are inside reading up on the news via social media. There is a strange dichotomy between hope and despair that exists within me. Nevertheless, I try to make our home a place of safety and trust.

To capture a sense of innocence I turn to a scent that is probably one of Andy Tauer’s less lauded offerings, but the one I consider to be his magnum opus. Let me introduce you to Carillon Pour Un Ange.

Carillon Pour Un Ange by Tauer Perfumes 2010

Carillon Pour Un Ange by Andy Tauer

Carillon pour un ange Tauer Perfumes FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Rose, ylang, lilac, lily of the valley
Heart: Jasmine, leather, lily of the valley
Base: Ambergris, moss, woods

The name translated into English is Chime for an Angel. This gives absolutely no indication of what lies in the bottle. And to be honest, I don’t give a care for what the official notes are. The star of the scent is Lily of the Valley. I am so mesmerised by the star that I just don’t register any other players. The Lily of the Valley is so high pitched in it that I think of Carillon as Voice of an Angel rather than chime for an angel. From opening to dry down hours later, Carillon is linear and carries that high note all the way through.

Carillon pour un ange Tauer Concierto_de_angeles WikiMediaWikiMedia

I suspect Mr Tauer is unapologetic in his creation of Carillon. If you do not like the opening, then there is no chance you will enjoy the scent at any stage. It was made to carry the glory of the Lily of the Valley. There is no taming of the notes sung. Unadulterated, perhaps amplified, but in no way tame or smoothed over. Mr Tauer has simply used his hand to elevate the Lily of the Valley to be seen (or smelt) by all.

I find it ironic that a delicate bell shaped flower which harks from a dip in the earth’s crust is one that Mr Tauer associates with angels so high up in the proverbial heavens. There is a poetic beauty in it. This is where I find the hope. If a little flower can sing so strongly to reach the heavens, then we can each hope that our small acts of kindness will reach outwards and have an effect. Like prayer beads used to focus the mind on worship and supplication, Carillon acts like a chime when I smell it. I am brought back to a moment of stillness and a reminder to stay focused on the ample good in the world.

Carillon pour un ange Tauer gerson_rodriguez PixabayPDI

Further reading: Non Blonde and Perfume Posse
Men’s Biz has $249/50ml FREE Australian Delivery
Tauer Perfumes has samples from $5

Do you have a scent you turn to when you have conflicting emotions? Do any of your scents bring you to a centred internal peace?

Love, peace and mungbeans,

Kate xxx

Rose Delight Body Oil by Andy Tauer for Tauer Perfumes 2016

.

Post by Robert Herrmann

.

Hi Frag Friends!

Robert H. here writing from my (very warm) tiny island home in the Pacific Northwest.

The Tauer line of fragrances are kind of a “tough love” for many people. There are ones that don’t work on me at all (Zeta, Pentachords White, Sotto La Luna Gardenia), and others that absolutely sing with beauty and joy (Phi Un Rose De Kandahar, LADM, Noontide Petals etc…) The ones that work are not necessarily scents I would reach for on a daily basis, more like very special performance art perfumes. Often I will spray with abandon when I’m alone in the house and can wander around for hours encapsulated in my very own cloud of scented gloriousness!

Rose Delight Body Oil Tauer 1

What I really love about Tauer Perfumes, is Andy Tauer’s willingness to step outside his own box to create fragrances for a secondary range (Tauerville) that are like little masterpieces, and priced affordably so anyone can enjoy his work. To me, this speaks volumes, this attitude and desire to make perfume accessible to everyone! Rose Flash, Fruitchouli Flash, Amber Flash, and one of my favorites, Vanilla Flash are as great as anything you’ll find at five times the price!

Rose Delight Body Oil by Tauer Perfumes 2016

Rose Delight Body Oil by Andy Tauer

Rose Delight Body Oil Tauer 3

So when I first heard of the new and reasonable Rose Delight Body Oil, I jumped online to order, because A.) body oil, and B.) Another Tauer rose! Hell yes!

Tauer Rose Delight Body Oil, is a luxurious sheer body moisturizing oil described by Mr. Tauer thusly: ” …based on pure cold pressed jojoba oil, totally free of added other oils, free of added phthalates, antioxidants, parabens and stabilizers. The scent is rose petals on a gourmand base. A rose veil for a grey or sunny day.”

It is indeed a rose veil, at first simplistic and seemingly linear, but like a new bud opening up…. layers upon layers of rose and something spicy (Pepper? Clove?) all on a deep and absolutely captivating and hypnotic base. Absolutely gorgeous, as in eyes-rolling-back-in-your-head gorgeous!

Rose Delight Body Oil Tauer 2

Yup. Love it.

Available exclusively through the Tauer Perfumes website (CLOSED July 21-August 5), Tauer’s new Rose Delight Body Oil is a delight in every sense of the word!

Do you use body oils? What’s your favorite or go-to?

Tauer Perfumes Sample Pack GIVEAWAY WINNER

.

Post by Portia

.

Hi crew,

Thank you so much to Liam Sardea, of Olfactics, and Men’s Biz here in Oz for their incredibly generous offer. Please go have a look at the Men’s Biz site for your Australian niche fragrance needs. Let’s see who won,

Portia xx

Tauer Perfumes Sample Pack GIVEAWAY WINNER

Tauer Perfumes Samples

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 1 winner who will receive:
1 x Tauer Perfumes Manufacturers Sample Pack (1.5ml of each fragrance above)
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Thursday 2nd June 2016 10pm Australian EST
Winners was chosen by random.org

Winner ganjer

Lindaloo

The winners will have till Wednesday 8th June 2016 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Tauer Perfumes Sample Pack

.

Post by Portia

.

Hey APJ,

As you may have read my mate Liam Sardea, who writes for APJ sometimes and has his own blog Olfactics, is now working for Men’s Biz here in Oz curating their fragrance range. One of the big wins he has had is that they now are the Australian retailers of Tauer Perfumes. To celebrate they have sent me a Tauer Sample Pack to give away today.

This week I am dedicating APJ to a GIVEAWAY WEEK! Yes, every day for six out of seven days there will be a 24 hour GIVEAWAY. That’s right, you’ll have 24 hours to get your comment in and then it will be drawn. Enter every day if you like but only one comment per day. Got it?

Tauer Perfumes Sample Pack

Tauer Perfumes Samples

 

I’m giving you the Tauer Perfumes blurb for each fragrance in this Sample Pack.

03 Lonestar Memories: The scent of a lonesome rider, wearing old jeans and leather jacket, after a long day on the horse in the dry woods, preparing his coffee on the open, smoky fire.

05 Incense Extreme: A perfume built around a natural CO2 extract of Boswellia serrata, aka incense; it captures the roughness of the climate of the semi desert where Boswellia trees thrives. It is translucent like the first whiff of incense smoke from Boswellia resin on red gleaming coal. Yet, it is crisp like a night in the desert.

06 Incense Rose: Incense rosé is a mysterious fragrance, like an thick flying oriental carpet with floating rose petals, built around smoking frankincense, with rose and citrus notes, and dark balsamic resins.

09 Orange Star: Discover a rich citrus fragrance with a clean orange flower in its heart, and a soft elegant base that seems to last forever.

Phi Une Rose De Kandahar: Phi is a luxurious scent, inspired by a natural extract of roses produced in Afghanistan’s rose region, Nangarhar. This rose oil is extremely rare and of highest quality. Inspired by these roses, growing in a dry and rough land, Phi is a rare gem, complementing contrasting lines, rich in natural raw materials that add depth and authenticity.

Please go have a look at the Men’s Biz site for your Australian niche fragrance needs.

AllSteele giveaway 1

Tauer Perfumes Sample Pack GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 1 winner who will receive:
1 x Tauer Perfumes Manufacturers Sample Pack (1.5ml of each fragrance above)
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Tell us a your favourite Tauer Perfume

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close TOMORROW Thursday 2nd June 2016 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Wednesday 8th June 2016 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Tauer Perfumes at Men’s Biz + Discount Code!

.

Post by Liam

.

My dear fragrant fellows!

Hello! Glad to be back! Where have I been in the past 6 months or so?

Well. In between now and my last post for APJ, I completed my secondary year of schooling – which included an arduous series of examinations! A rather stressful time, but, thankfully I came out with a rather snazzy outcome. People were so interested in my story of balancing school life and blogging at Olfactics that the state newspaper ran a story of me! How cool is that pic? What am I doing now? Philosophy Major!

I have also started working for an Australian company called Men’s Biz – who place the highest, most superlative emphasis on male grooming. With a desire to expand and enrich their fragrant offerings in 2016 – I was the man for the job, and began to work a week after my last exam! No rest for the wicked, as they say…

After careful revamping and curating of Men’s Biz’s selection of scents, we have introduced must-haves such as L’Artisan Perfumeur, Etat Libre d’Orange, and as for the highlight of my 2016 so far….

Tauer Perfumes at Men’s Biz

It brings me considerable glee to inform you that we’ve secured Andy Tauer’s excellent perfumes! After much demand from the Australian community, Tauer has finally hit our shores. To celebrate this monumental occasion, Portia and I cross over and share our 3 favourite Tauer fragrances.

Incense Rose Tauer Perfumes FragranticaFragrantica

Incense Rose by Tauer Perfumes 2008

There is no doubt that at times I get a touch philosophical with the perfumes I review. Incense Rose is no exception. On an artistic level, no perfume is as resplendent, and self-luminescent as Incense Rose. The rose here is wild, neon-coloured and feral – bolstered with cardamom and citrus, but then put into chains with sublime darkness. A vibrating depth of incense, castoreum, and typical woody oriental notes (patchouli, a hint of fresh cedar, myrrh and orris) provide immense contrast … As if the weight of the world just disappeared.

Sotto La Luna Gardenia Tauer Perfumes FragranticaFragrantica

Sotta La Luna Gardenia by Tauer Perfumes 2014

The recipe for this fragrance is, to me, as follows:
Construct an illusionary, hyper-real gardenia flower with an unctuous creaminess by the way of vanilla, and hints of jasmine, rose, and warm tonka bean. At once mossy, strikingly green, and paradoxically spicy and fresh – the whole spectrum – and then, most ingeniously, cover this beautifully constructed gardenia in metallic space dust. It’s a gardenia with a strange twinkle. Out of this world.

L`Air du Desert Marocain Tauer Perfumes FragranticaFragrantica

L’Air du Desert Marocain by Tauer Perfumes 2005

The real question is, who doesn’t know this fragrance?
This is a fragrance that is everywhere and nowhere on the skin – it melts into something that seems to always be just out of reach. A soft sandstorm of dry spice lead with coriander seed and amber, a cloudless sky (the purity of incense), a warm gust felt in the cool shade (cedar, vanilla). L’Air isn’t just a fragrance. It’s a story that needs to be worn.

Please, come check out Men’s Biz
Check out Portia’s Post on Olfactics

Men’s Biz Discount Code!

A little gift for Australian readers – a coupon code from Men’s Biz. Just enter ‘APJ’ at the checkout.

… and of course, my question for you. What is Tauer’s most magical fragrance?

Liam

Sotto La Luna Tuberose by Andy Tauer for Tauer Perfumes 2015

.

Post by Portia

.

Hi there Independent Niche Nerds,

Andy Tauer became known on the frag scene through blogging about his fragrance creation adventures. He was the first perfumer to engage the world in such a way and he and his style of perfumery are loved even though his scents can be polarising. Many people have problems with his Tauer-ade: a sweet citrus/honey/amber baseline to my nose that can last days on skin and indefinitely in fabrics. Personally I really like his style and I purchased a decant of his newest offering from Surrender To Chance which has just arrived. Scott was over and we decided to trial it first on paper and then on skin. It’s even more fun testing fragrances with a mate because different people pick up different nuance.

Sotto La Luna Tuberose by Tauer Perfumes 2015

Sotto La Luna Tuberose by Andy Tauer

Sotto La Luna Tuberose Tauer Perfumes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Cinnamon, cloves, geranium, galbanum
Heart: Tuberose, ylang-ylang, jasmine
Base: Tuberose, patchouli, amber

I can’t tell you what I was expecting from Sotto La Luna Tuberose but I was surprised by what I got. The green and oily, petrochemical reminiscent opening still manages to be smooth and is offset by sweet bubblegum. It’s an engaging dichotomy that keeps my nose glued to my wrist. Tuberose, imagine a bunch of tuberose on a table in an air conditioned office, Sotto La Luna Tuberose. Tuberose with that unreal, artificial coolness. We get a lovely sappiness of whitest green, like cutting hydrangeas and their sap.

There are also herbal, tropical, balmy and resinous notes flowing through and both Scott and I were convinced (without looking at notes) that there is a honey that is cleaned of most of its animalics but leaving a thick, glutinous sweetness that has nothing to do with the 21st century craze for confectionery. Maybe this is Andy’s amber.

Sotto La Luna Tuberose by Andy Tauer Honey Siona Karen FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

After about 30-40 minutes we couldn’t decide how to describe the smell and came up with three similar but all just wide of the mark: smoky caramel, lightly burnt vanilla or sun pinked skin after a day at the beach. It’s an undercurrent running beneath the tuberose which stays right to the end of the fragrance. For anyone who has ever been upset by the longevity of the tuberose ferociousness in Versace Blonde, SL Tubereuse Criminale, L’Artisan Nuit de Tubereuse, Piguet Fracas or Ava Luxe Tubereuse Diabolique then here is a tuberose for you. Ferocious at the start and maintaining a fun level of outrageous throughout its lengthy lifespan. NSFW people unless you are in a very cool workplace where they like people to be fully fragrant.

How is Sotto La Luna Tuberose different? Longevity, tuberose staying power, opening oily green and bubblegum together and the patchouli/amber is different, unpickable for us as exactly a thing to reference we spent ages trying to find good and easily understandable correlations. Scott said he will now buy a decant to see if he loves it as much as he thinks, being a bit of a BWF hater. Different enough? Definitely.

Sotto La Luna Tuberose by Andy Tauer Tuberose Stella Yodo FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Further reading: Now Smell This and Perfume Posse
IndieScents has $145/50ml
Surrender To Chance has samples from $3.45/.5ml

What is your Tauer favourite?
Portia xxx