12 Perfumes I Would Rebuy

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Post by Portia

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Hello Fab Fumies,

Once upon a time you would see these Desert Island lists everywhere. It was a regular question on blogs and Facebook pages. It would be great for me because it would make me think about the fragrances that really matter in my collection. So let’s get hypothetical.

Let’s say you have downsized to a Tiny Home after your whole perfume collection was destroyed and are only allowing yourself 12 fragrance bottles in your new less expansive space (you can change one every time you finish a bottle, gift one away etc). You have bought an In-Cupboard-Drawer that will be the complete size of your collection and it fits 12 bottles exactly. You have no price restrictions only bottle number, what are the first 12 bottles you chose to have in your home?

12 Perfumes I Would Rebuy

Aesthete Le Galion FragranticaFragrantica

Aesthete by Le Galion: The Le Galion crew are woefully under appreciated. This sexy leather/saffron/incense with a lovely animalic backbone is the bomb. Elegant, wearable, inviting and distinct.

Amoureuse by Parfums DelRae: Freakiest damn sexy lily I ever smelled in my life. A golden witch brew that makes my head pop.

Dia pour Femme Amouage FragranticaFragrantica

Dia Woman Extract by Amouage: An animal in couture clothing. All the flowers over an oudh/incense base that sings on my skin all night long till the early morning when it growls and purrs.

Fantasia de Fleurs by Creed: I can’t think of a better jammy rose. Some times in my life just seem to call for Fantasia de Fleurs

Giverny In Bloom by DSH Perfumes: The greenest green I ever did smell. So much galbanum decorated with flowers to lightly soften the blow. I go through so much Giverny In Bloom that it’s nearly time I bought more…..

Mitsouko Vintage Extrait by Guerlain: If you knew how much of this I’ve stockpiled you would be appalled. That furry peachy floral oakmoss bomb that continues to fascinate and delight me every time.

Mitzah Christian Dior FragranticaFragrantica

Mitzah by DIOR: Honeyed, spicy, amber rose overlaid with a glorious smoky incense both fiery and cooly aloof. LOVE IT!

Mohur Neela Vermeire CreationsFragrantica

Mohur by Neela Vermeire Creations: Another spicy rose but this time cooler and more Asiatic. Every wear is slightly different and it tends to bloom differently at different temperatures.

Niki de Saint Phalle: A chypre with a softer floral hue through the heart. So wearable and is such a summer staple that works in all climes.

Olympic Amber by Olympic Orchids: Yes, I have about 30 ambers in my collection and this was the hardest to winnow down to one by there is something incredible simple and wearable about Olympic Amber, it’s the one I seem to reach for as my benchmark.

vintage-shalimar-gold-tone-parfum-bottle-perfume-guerlain

Shalimar Extrait by Guerlain: The one. Forever and ever. My favourite fragrance in the world. This case is by far my preferred way to apply too.

Truth or Dare by Madonna: I know. Don’t care what you think. This is one of my all time favourites. It gets hauled out and spritzed at least once a week. There’s quite a stockpile here but still I worry that it will run out.

 

Can I tell you honestly that this took me a while because I kept swapping things out and then feeling bad because some of my favourite perfumers, houses and frags would have meant a doubling up of notes or styles. In the end I had to stop myself second guessing by adding that each time a bottle emptied or was gifted away I could swap it out for a different scent. Suddenly it didn’t seem like I was choosing forever and my head stopped exploding. He he he.

OK, so it’s over to you. What are your 12? Don’t think too long, it’s merely hypothetical and not forever.
Portia xx

Aventus For Her by Creed 2016

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Post by Ainslie Walker

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Hey fellow fragrant fanatics!

Have you ever tried NOT to fall in love? Perhaps we all have at some point in our lives; when we meet a kitten or puppy that we can’t keep for ourselves…or the obvious no-no: someone else’s partner. We fragrant fiends do this with perfume. Times you have zero spare money and you read about a fragrance that sounds PERFECT for you…when you enter a boutique, see a new brand and start sniffing, knowing full well you already own enough fragrant juices to fill a medium sized kids pool!

As I opened recently released Aventus For Her, THIS is what came to mind:

Aventus ‘disciples’ forever discuss the “panty dropping” aka sexually captivating nature of Creed’s Aventus. Mimicking wine-vintage buffs they discuss various batch codes being superior to others. To be honest I’ve never ‘got it.’ Released in 2010, Aventus is reported to be the best selling fragrance in Creed’s 250-year history. I find it a bit to macho for my liking, so my knickers remain up in its presence.

Is Aventus For Her cashing in on the aura surrounding its male counterpart and if so is that really so bad?…could it become as legendary?

Aventus For Her by Creed 2016

Wicked Games – Aventus For Her

Aventus for Her Creed FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Patchouli, green apple, bergamot, lemon, pink pepper, violet
Heart: Mysore sandalwood, rose, musk, styrax
Base: Peach, black currant, lilac, ylang-ylang, amber

On first whiff in Sydney’s Harold’s I recognised a watery green apple note I’ve enjoyed in Creed’s Aqua Originale Geranium Vetiver. I then waited for the infamous pineapple note Aventus is famous for. It didn’t come, yet the hairs in my olfactory system were standing to attention. Sweet yet fresh, I wanted to sniff again, a guilty pleasure…I was hoping not to fall in love. Light, fruity and playful were my first thoughts as I rushed out of the shopping centre.

Today I poured a small manufactures decant on my wrists, chest and a blotter and found myself engulfed in a nice feminine, fruit cloud for the initial hour or so which then turned sweeter to peach and rose, yet remained fresh and quite unisex. Somewhere amongst the first hour or so there was a flutter of powdery goodness. Finally all the ingredients settle into a lovely balanced composition, which then stays pleasantly linear for the rest of the wear.

Aventus for Her CREED Reid_Robert_Lewis_Girl_with_Flowers WikiCommonsWikiCommons

Where would I wear it? Daytime picnic. The Office. A boardroom meeting. A job interview. Seasons? Summer and spring. A nice scent for someone who’s just had a baby or has small children. Would I wear it on a date? I don’t think so – it’s pretty but not sexy or distinctive enough. Outfit? Jeans and blouse, maybe a little tom-boyish/masculine clothes or a cutesy cotton floral dress (girlie) with Dr Martin ankle boots (rock n roll). There’s innocence to this scent alongside a sense of strength.

To celebrate women and the launch of Aventus For Her, Creed has donated $25,000 to “Because I Am Girl”. A charity that empowers supports and educates young girls with programs addressing mental, emotional and physical wellbeing, raising standards in how girls treat themselves, each other and the world.

Aventus for Her CREED Floral Fabric Megan FlickrFlickr

Further reading: Colognoisseur
Libertine Parfumerie has $465/75ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $3/0.5ml

Overall I give it a thumbs up and will definitely wear it some more as the weather warms up. Have you tried it yet? How did you go?

Until next time, Ainslie XX

Tea and Sympathy: Scent Memories of Mum

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Post by Anonymous

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Hello APJ,

She died in the early hours of a Monday morning. There was no pain, just hours of quiet ragged breathing interspersed by pauses until, finally, one pause became permanent.

My mother had always loved tea. In the last years of her life she hardly ever ate a full meal, but she was always up for a cuppa and a biscuit. She loved visitors and was always quick to offer a cuppa and a chat to anybody who dropped by.

Tea and Sympathy chezbeate pixabayPixabay

Once she had left, I decided a good way to remember her would be to wear tea fragrances for a while. No great thinking lay behind this, just one of those things you reach for to help you deal with the news. It was a way of reminding myself of what she liked.

Tea and Sympathy: Scent Memories of Mum

Masque Russian Tea FragranticaFragrantica

On the day of her passing, I chose Masque Russian Tea. This is the most overt tea fragrance that I own, a real hit of lapsang souchong, almost exactly like breathing in the heady fumes of a stiff brew in one of mum’s fine china cups.

Silver Mountain Water Creed FragranticaFragrantica

Tuesday was dreadfully hot, and I was in no mood to deal with that. Creed’s Silver Mountain Water was the right tea fragrance in the heat. This one is a crisp cup of white tea, not huge in flavour but elegant and refined. Like a lot of Creeds on me, this one didn’t stay long in the extreme heat, but I enjoyed it while it lasted.

Oolang Infini Atelier Cologne FragranticaFragrantica

My favourite style of tea is oolong, and I thought Atelier Oolang Infini would be a good one for me. Sad to report, it isn’t. I could barely tell that I had perfume on, even after applying it for a second time. Atelier have a few stars in the line-up, but this was a disappointment.

Eau Parfumee au The Vert Bvlgari  FragranticaFragrantica

Green tea is another favourite, and Bvlgari Au The Vert was my pick as the classic green tea style in my collection. This never disappoints; a really nice scent that doesn’t impose itself on people and it can deal with the heat. A fairly linear bergamot and tea concoction; is this what Earl Grey would smell like with green tea instead of black?

Tea for Two L`Artisan Parfumeur FragranticaFragrantica

L’Artisan’s Tea For Two takes a different direction, blending tea and tobacco notes for a rich, warming fragrance rounded out by spices and wood. This one is a winter fragrance for me, and didn’t work too well on this hot Friday, but it is one of my favourite tea scents, and I wasn’t going to leave it out.

I had my doubts about Saturday, the day of the funeral, and seriously considered not wearing any perfume at all, out of respect for the occasion. But this is not our way; funerals are sad occasions, sure, but they are also celebrations of a life lived, and a rare occasion where our far-flung extended family can get together. People came from interstate and all around the world to join us, and I decided that celebrating was the best way to think of the day.

By Kilian Bamboo Harmony FragranticaFragrantica

I chose By Kilian Bamboo Harmony for the funeral. It might sound macabre, but there is something about the plush-lined black box that it comes in that seemed appropriate. This is another white tea and bergamot blend, like Silver Mountain Water, but it nods towards Asia rather than Europe. It’s discreet and long-lasting, and proved to be a good choice.

Yerbamate Lorenzo Villoresi FragranticaFragrantica

Sunday was worse than Saturday. An empty, numb feeling all day, now that something truly was missing. Brunch with the family, but I really didn’t feel like it. What I wanted was to be by myself at last, go for a long walk in the sunshine and listen to some music. I did all that later and my feeling was buoyed by the perfect tea scent for a bright sunny day – Lorenzo Villoresi’s Yerbamate.

From now on the scent of tea will unlock something in me that it never has before,
Thanks for reading.

NEW!: Creed, Juliette Has A Gun and Frapin

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Post by Ainslie Walker

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Nick Smart’s desk at Agence de Parfum’s HQ (Libertine Parfumerie) often holds exciting secrets. Last week he had just returned from a buying trip in Europe…Squeal!! I dashed for the pile of boxes and had a quick sniff. These are my first thoughts and REVEALS:

NEW!: Creed, Juliette Has A Gun and Frapin

 A fleeting whiff! New niche releases

Creed Royal Princess Oud

Creed: Princess Oud is an oriental floral for women launching in Australia in March 2016, also created by in-house nose Oliver Creed. Before sniffing I thought of the words “princess” and “oud” and conjured up an imagined scent being sweet, girlie and dense with oud. I was right. An appealing, possibly heading towards ‘crowd pleasing,’ fragrance which paves a pathway between Middle Eastern and Western perfumes. It’s far too icky-sweet for me, personally. Maybe not so original but it’s done very well, this review is from a card so skin mileage will vary.

Creed: Royal Mayfair, a unisex fragrance launching here in December is a remake of Windsor, the limited edition of 2009, renamed and no longer limited. Whoop! Windsor was originally created in 1936 for King Edward VIII of England. Ingredients take us on a tour of the British Empire he ruled and makes for an interesting olfactive tale, in which Australia features, with the inclusion of “our” eucalyptus. Nose Oliver Creed has combined London gin, Jamaican lime, Scottish Highland pine tree atop of “Duke of Windsor” roses and orange from the Bahamas over Canadian cedar and AUSTRALIAN eucalyptus. I stopped and took notice when I first sniffed and it gets better and more beautiful and distinctive on drydown. My current gin based fragrance is Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling…could this be next?

Frapin: The Orchid Man is being compared to Aventus and due in Australia for release in January. Call me an alien but I am no massive fan of Aventus. Obviously I appreciate it, but mostly it’s too macho, and frankly that’s not who I like to nuzzle up too. Add to this all the comments re “panty dropping” I see on fragrance forums and I think its killed it for me (pants definitely up to the point of wedging!) My favourite pineapple note in perfumes is in Frapin’s 1270. So I was intrigued thinking, “could Frapin’s take possibly be a better and more affordable Aventus with 1270’s magical pineapples and woods?” No. It’s missing the pineapple sadly, but it is very similar to Aventus.

Juliette Has A Gun Another oud

Juliette Has a Gun: Another Oud will be released in Australia in Feb 2016 (lets hope this means another visit to Oz from sexy Parisian, Romano Ricci, father of the brand..!) I smell the musks and ambroxan JHAG are famous for with oud floating up eventually from underneath. A dry oud scent. On the skin however Another Oud comes to life and there’s more to it than first expected, including some raspberry fruit and intensifying oud. I’d like to spend more time with this fragrance as it has all the elements to be very sensual.

Libertine Parfumerie has samples and bottles. FREE Australian Delivery over $100
First In Fragrance if you’re in Europe
LuckyScent in the USA
Surrender To Chance is a great way to sample before you buy too

What have you discovered lately that’s new to market or you that has touched you?
Ainslie Walker

Walking Over Harbour Bridge with Baily Nov 2015Photos Donated Ainslie Walker

 

Creed Aqua Originale Collection: Sydney Launch

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Post by Ainslie Walker

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My last “perfume mission” for 2014 was when I met with Erwin Creed who was in Sydney in December launching Creed’s Aqua Originale Collection at QT. Erwin is the 7th generation Creed to work in the Creed family business, established in 1760, he will eventually take over from his father and perfumer, Olivier Creed. The packaging states, “From father to son since 1760” which is very touching and amazing because it’s true.

Creed Aqua Originale Collection Launch 2015 2Photo Donated Ainslie Walker

Creed Aqua Originale Collection Launch

Erwin Creed in Sydney at QT

Creed Aqua Originale Collection FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

There are 5 in the new collection that Erwin guided me through, and here’s my evaluation:

Iris Tubereuse I instantly loved, with its top notes of galbanum, orange and violet leaf; middle notes of tuberose, lily-of-the-valley and lily; base notes of musk, orange blossom and vanilla. I found it a deep and fresh green tuberose (as if tuberose and lily of the valley have just been cut) and only in the drydown did the iris come through for me amongst the reasonably prominent orange blossom. It is strong, but dewy and water drenched. I feel very beautiful wearing this.

Vetiver Geranium has top notes of granny smith apple, bergamot and lemon; middle notes of geranium, cinnamon and rose; base notes of patchouli, cedar, musk and amber. It is marketed towards men, however I have worn this frequently during the hot Australian summer. Best jaunt was an afternoon garden party because on my skin, it starts so fresh -perfect for a hot day. Geranium stays in the forefront, the apple and rose come to play with hinting at amber and cinnamon and the vetiver and patchouli just hang back, which is perfect partying on into the evening.

Aberdeen Lavander with it’s strange spelling mistake and top notes of bergamot, rosemary, lemon and artemisia; middle notes of lavender, lily, tuberose and rose; base notes of patchouli, leather and vetiver, is unusual yet beautiful, perhaps the most interesting of the collection. Rounded notes of tuberose. Sweet gourmand coumarin make the sweetest rosemary notes I have ever smelt, and these all peak through gentle citrus wafts. A distinct nod to the classic Guerlain Jicky here- I would love to compare them. The leather and shy lavender fascinates and is kind of soapy…my father used to use Imperial Leather’s soap in the 80s – perhaps that’s why. Dry down is gorgeous.

Cedre Blanc is more robust citrus woods and herbs, and to me, more traditionally masculine than feminine. It has top notes of bergamot, cardamom, galbanum and bay leaf; middle notes of geranium, lily and jasmine; base notes of cedar, vetiver and sandalwood. I immediately experience the galbanum and citrus sewn together with bay, but something, almost oakmoss is lurking…I am guessing a big dash of Calone. The geranium is crisp and natural but I am not getting the normally dry scent of cedar. Overall I expect it to become super strong, but it would actually be a good office scent, with all the nuances of the fragrances men often cannot wear in offices without overwhelming their colleagues – and definitely more natural smelling. I would love to smell this on a man.

Asian Green Tea Erwin says, was released for the Asian market being light, fresh and sweet citrus with top notes of bergamot, mandarin orange, lemon and neroli; middle notes of violet, green tea, heliotrope, rose and black currant; base notes of sandalwood, musk and amber. It has the freshness of citrus without the bitterness, perhaps from mandarin. I pick up a rock melon scent and with the heliotrope/vanilla it’s like tropical icecream in parts. My skin then pumps out the tarty blackcurrant atop of an amber and heliotrope cocktail. The drydown brings more green notes; I think it’s the neroli and finally the green tea rearing its head. Fresh and gourmand, no woods and definitely not linear – do try!

Creed Aqua Originale Collection Launch 2015 1Photo Donated Ainslie Walker

Surrender To Chance has the Creed Aqua Originale sample set $24/5 x .5ml

Overall I find the collection to be uncomplicated with ingredients being of high quality. Scents feel very natural, asides from the tubereuse and Aberdeen lavender, which are more surreal and hypernatural. What’s your favorite?

Ainslie Walker x

Fantasia de Fleurs by Henry Creed Third Generation for Creed 1862

Hiya Fumie friends,

A bottle I have long had in my possession, one of the earliest big ticket purchases I made, Creed’s Fantasia de Fleurs. I think I’ve told you before of my love for many things Austrian? Back in 1994-5 while I was living in London one of my childhood friends was in the Vienna Stat Opera Ballet. I would go to Vienna and visit him. These were in the days of the Ringstraße trams that were free and you just hopped on and off and they would take you around the inner precinct of Vienna. Even though there was not a lot of English in Vienna at the time it was totally easy for me to navigate and I felt incredibly safe at all times day & night.

Fantasia de Fleurs by Henry Creed III for Creed 1862

Fantasia de Fleurs Creed FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot
Heart: Bulgarian rose, Florentine iris
Base: Ambergris infusion

The reason I went on about Austria at the top is because this wonderful fragrance, Fantasia de Fleurs, was created for Empress Elisabeth of Austria-Hungary (or Sisi as she is known there) and I fell madly in love with her story when first in Vienna, seeking out all the places I could find from her biography and trying to piece together in my mind what her history could have been like. My mate was rehearsing and doing classes most days, we would hang in the nights unless he was performing, then I’d go see the show. It was cool.

Fantasia de Fleurs Creed Empress Elisabeth of Austria WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

SO, when I found out that Sisi had a fragrance made for her I bought it unsniffed when there was an incredible sale on somewhere. BTW I do NOT think blind buying is a good idea.

I was SOOOO lucky that on first sniff I was wrapped in a super sweet, jammy rose that has other stuff buoying it up but really stays pretty gorgeously linear through its life, getting slightly more salty and animalic at the end which is also added to by my sweaty man skin. The opening has this great dryness, like a tea note that cuts through the sweetness, making the whole fragrance easy to wear and quite unisex.I am under no illusion that this is EXACTLY how Fantasia de Fleurs smelled in 1862, I am pretty sure we are smelling an updated version but it still is a big, blowsy, royal fragrance that has a sillage you could do waterski jumps on.

Fantasia de Fleurs Creed WadeWilliams WikiCommonsPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

Through most of my time with Fantasia de Fleurs I have complained of its lack of longevity but recently I learned the trick. You need to wear it for a couple of hours and then do a light respritz. It brings fragrance life up to a ridiculous length, after doing this last night after my shower and then giving myself a blast in the morning i was still quite fragrant at 5pm this afternoon! That is awesome longevity for me.

So if you like the sweetest and most jammy roses, want to smell like an Empress and love the Creed bottles for ladies then Fantasia de Fleurs could be one to try. I am surprised at how much of my bottle has gone.

Fantasia de Fleurs Creed Mathilda Samuelsson FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Further reading: I Smell Therefore I Am and EauMG
Peony Melbourne has $279/75ml with FREE Australian P&H
First In Fragrance has €155/75ml

Which Creed do you love or which fragrance that is aligned with a celeb or royal did you ever buy because of that affiliation alone?
Portia xx

Iris Tubereuse by Creed 2014 + Chicago Photo Essay

Hey Hey APJ,

I’m not sure if you followed our adventures as we traveled across the USA in a diagonal from LA to NYC. Stop number 3 was in Chicago, Illinois. We had a few things on the agenda that needed doing. Number ONE was celebrating Anita’s (Musette from Perfume Posse) birthday. Which we did in high style, morning at the Chicago Art Gallery, Lunch in the Walnut Room at the old Marshall Fields (now Macy’s) and dinner at Hard Rock cafe (idea had by a Chicago native). We also had a meetup of the perfumista crew that started at Barney’s went to Neiman Marcus and ended in cocktails and Chicago deep dish pizza. We met some wonderful people, had a complete blast and fell head over heels in love with Chicago.

I also fell madly in love with two fragrances, the first of which is ..

Iris Tubereuse by Creed 2014

iris-tubereuse CreedPhoto Stolen CreedUSA

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Galbanum, orange, violet leaf
Heart: Tuberose, lily-of-the-valley, lily
Base: Musk, orange blossom, vanilla

What I didn’t expect on my travels was to find a new Creed that I want so desperately in my collection.

The opening of Iris Tubereuse is a big fat punch in the nose of galbanum, there is other stuff but my skin boosts the galbanum beautifully. Then the green is peeled back to let the most glorious white florals emerge, or bloom really. Green notes and white flowers. You had me at hello. This is heady and deliriously big for about 20 minutes, reminding me of the 1980s: big hair, big shoulder pads, bold colours, cinched waists and spike heels (and that was the men!!).

After that initial burst of WHOA enormous Iris Tubereuse settles into a warm, lush, tropical evening stroll. A little breathy, slightly sweaty and humid. Very little iris (or violet leaf) to be smelled on my skin, but that could be me missing it completely. The vanilla/musks in dry down are pleasant and totally unchallenging, this is the least interesting part of iris tubereuse yet I can see that being part of its attraction to the mainstream buyers.

The very handsome young man at the David Jones Libertine counter told me it was his best seller for young women buying their own and all men buying gifts. Interesting. I would happily rock this, and I love the bottle.

My sample came from Libertine Parfumerie who have live sites in both David Jones and Myer, Sydney City Stores.
Libertine Parfumerie has AUD$385/100ml with FREE SHIPPING in Australia (Christmas Delivery cut off December 22)
Creed in the US has US$300/100ml
Surrender To Chance have samples starting at $5/.5ml

Portia xxx

Chicago 2014 Photo Essay

IMG_3385Kim, Jin, Kath, Musette & I at some cool live music bar. Great food & service, can’t remember the name damnit! (Shaw’s Blue Crab Lounge)

IMG_3386

 

IMG_3391At the Neiman Marcus Creed counter. I have no idea what happened to my Barneys photos

IMG_3392

IMG_3390My new boyfriend. Looks after the Patou fragrances but I can’t remember his name. Let’s just call him Mr Turbo (Richard Gonzalez)

IMG_3393Julie R and I in the cool of the evening.

IMG_3395DRINKS!!!

IMG_3397

IMG_3398Deep dish Pizza.

IMG_3400The crew at the end of the day. we’d lost quite a few along the way. These are the stayers.

IMG_3406My favourite American artist, Georgia O’Keefe. Here are my three favourites from the Chicago gallery of her work.

IMG_3407

IMG_3405You have no idea how enormous this piece is, you can still feel reverberations of this look above the clouds from a plane in modern works.

IMG_3409 Musette’s BIRTHDAY lunch at the Walnut Room. The extra lady told us there would be a very short wait. We got to the line and the other people said over 40 minutes. We went and chewed her out about that and were seated immediately due to ir being a Very Special Birthday. Thank You Macy’s. Food was really yummy too.

RHYMING REVIEWS: Greg Young turns APJ Poet Laureate

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Post by Greg Young

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A while ago I entered a competition on a fragrance forum to write a limerick about perfume. Sadly I didn’t win, but I enjoyed the challenge. I’ve since written a few more, which I thought I’d share with you. I find it quite challenging to both come up with a suitable limerick and try to encapsulate the essence of my opinion about a scent within it. Hopefully I’ve managed it in a fashion that you’ll enjoy.

Don’t forget to jump back and enter our Tauer Perfumes GIVEAWAY!!

RHYMING REVIEWS

Tobacco Vanille Tom Ford FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Dear Desires: Tobacco Vanille by Tom Ford

The exclusive house of Tom Ford

Sells scents no-one can afford.

Still they’ll skip half their meals

To buy Tobacco Vanilles

Leaving his accountants suitably awed.

Aventus Creed FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Hip or Hype? Aventus by Creed

On Basenotes there’s general consensus

On the greatness of Creed’s scent Aventus.

But now a pizza chef type

Told me “Ignore all the hype”.

It smells just like the Hawaiian he’s sent us.

Peety O`Driu FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Visceral Aversion: Peety by O’Driu

The frustrated nose at O’Driu

Was almost about to say “See you”.

Then he said “Why don’t we see

If they’ll add their own pee?”

To which the market mostly said “Eeyew”.

1 Million Paco Rabanne FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

The Popular Choice: 1 Million by Paco Rabanne

Now that every outlet is stocking it

There are plenty of people knocking it.

But the real crying shame

Is that it’s not only it’s name

But the number of guys who are rocking it.

Silver Musk Nasomatto FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Linear Longevity: Silver Mist by Nasomatto

They say scents by Nasomatto

Are as strong and as rich as a gateau.

Starting out light, Silver Musk

Lasts from dawn until dusk

But it never surpasses that plateau.

Mark Birley Mark Birley FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

The Job Interview Scent: Mark Birley for Men

I was wondering what to wear to an interview.

A mate said the result will be sure if you

Wear Mark Birley Cologne

But I had none of my own

So he kindly offered to sell me two.

M7 Yves Saint Laurent fragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

The Scent of the Solstice: M7 by Yves Saint Laurent

When the depths of winter coment

I think that citrusy scents are notent.

What best suits my moudh

Is the rich and warm oudh

Of M7, by Yves St Laurent.

Fleurs de Gardenia by Creed: Sydney Launch Party + Review

The Launch

At 9am Wednesday 29th May media, industry, some very beautiful people and little old me (courtesy of Portia Turbo – thanks Portia!!!) gathered at Harrolds in the Sydney CBD for the Australian launch of the latest Creed offering to hit our shores – Fleurs de Gardenia.

FdG TableFleurs de Gardenia Table

The drinks and canapés were in abundance, but given the time of day the champagne was neglected in favour of juice and coffee coffee coffee!

Fleurs de Gardenia Launch Mary & NickMary & Nick

The event was hosted by Harrolds and Agence de Parfum and kicked off with Nick Smart (AdP) and Mary Poulakis (Harrolds) sharing their thoughts on Creed, Fleurs de Gardenia and the niche fragrance industry more broadly.

Michael Edwards 1Michael Edwards

Guest speaker Michael Edwards (author Fragrances of the World) then talked to us about Creed.
He talked about the brand history, its dedication to quality ingredients and also about the Fleurs de Gardenia fragrance itself. Interestingly, he also highlighted the importance of maceration and maturation in Creeds manufacturing process. Certainly not something I’d heard of before.
Post the formalities I took the opportunity to chat to Michael briefly about Creed. He was lovely to chat with and patiently answered my many geeky questions about Creed fragrances.
I also got to meet and chat to the lovely Catherine du Peloux Menage (Scent of Choice) and Clayton Ilolahia (What Men Should Smell Like). Naturally we talked fragrances and had lots of fun doing so.

FdGFleurs de Gardenia

To top it all off Nick handed us our very own bottle of Fleurs de Gardenia – Nick you are amazing and thank you so very much!
It was an excellent and very enjoyable morning.

Fleurs de Gardenia Review

So, Fleurs de Gardenia in its pretty purple accented bottle:

Fleurs de Gardenia FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Pink berries, blackcurrant, galbanum.
Heart: Gardenia, rose, lavender, Lily of the Valley, pink jasmine.
Base: Soft musk, Pink Patchouli, Virginia cedar.

It opens with green, fresh, floral and light/transparent. The main floral notes seem to be rose and lily accented by jasmine.
The jasmine starts to become a little stronger as the fragrance dries and you can start to perceive the lavender and something slightly mentholated and fresh.
The early stages really do suggest some extremely subtle herb and spice work going on. These combine with the headier aspects of the floral notes and lavender to provide a freshness that’s almost like old school aftershave (although not particularly masculine).
The next transition is from these floral and fresh notes into a fresh laundered smell. Imagine fresh clean sheets with a fresh breeze flowing through them. A lovely floral fabric conditioner has been used plus you have some lovely fresh cut flowers in vases nearby.
From here the musks and slightly more personal aspects of the floral notes come alive. The accord is simultaneously clean and dirty. It reminds me of the smell of stockings that have been worn, but are not dirty. It’s feminine, clean, floral and yet personal. Frankly I’m glad to smell a fragrance that smells worn and human yet still pretty and playful.
I enjoy wearing Fleurs de Gardenia but it is not a day long perfume. I get around 4 hours before it starts to become quiet and it’s all but the faintest skin scent by hour 6. Be sure to carry some with you so you can reapply.
The more I wear this fragrance the more I enjoy it. It’s definitely worth checking out if you love florals but can’t stand them being too heavy or loud.

Neroli in Budapest has 147€/75ml
Libertine Parfumerie in Australia has $279/75ml delivered in Australia
Surrender To Chance starts at $3/.5ml

Thanks,
Michael

Pure White (Original) Cologne by Olivier Creed VI for Creed 2011

Hello APJ,

We had a great day here yesterday, a bunch of friends around for a BarBQ enjoying the last warm weeks before we start to head towards the cooler months. Ten great friends all eating Jin’s famous BarBQ Chilli Pork, sausages, salads and bread rolls. We all drank heaps of sweet fruity wines, couchon reisling and moscato and laughed the day away. These are the days I will remember and cherish, like perfect gifts to mull over and reminisce about. We are so blessed.

Pure White (Original) Cologne by Creed 2011

pure-white-colognePhoto Stolen CREED

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: lemon, bergamot and grapefruit.
Heart: galbanum, neroli and pear.
Base: gray amber (ambergris), white musk and rice.

Just a little back story: Pure white Cologne was introduced last year as Original Cologne so that the people who bought it in the first year would have a fabulous collectors item. That is a fun idea but so annoying because now all other reviews are now out of date which strikes me as a bad marketing move.

The citrus opening is sweet and bright and hugely gorgeous, enough to attract orange beetles I reckon. Unleavened citrus beyond anything I’ve ever smelled and fun to boot. It takes a while for the next phase to become noticeable because it creeps up slowly and stealthily through the magnificent wonder that is the opening. What I first get is a softening of the citrus for a soft pear waft, it is both sweeter and dryer that the opening and green rather than sugary. That doesn’t make sense but it is the way I read the progression. It may hark back to fragrance of yesteryear but to me this is fun freshness, a beautiful green smoothy of a fragrance, a sweet and sour bite that says, “Though you are dressed  in a suit and fully, handsomely masculine, you are also edgy, naughty and spontaneous.” I expect a cologne to have little lasting power but Pure White Cologne by CREED outdistances many of its EdT and EdP counterparts and smells like money has been spent on the ingredients. As it should for the asking price. I am getting about 3 hours of fragrance and about the same of warm skin scent, though I get no hint of the rice in the base.

If we had an unlimited budget or were 3 fragrance happy then Pure White Cologne would definitely make the short list for a summer fragrance.

From the CREED site:
New in CREED’s Royal Exclusives Collection, Pure White Cologne evokes men’s styles in Victorian England: clean grooming, tailored white shirts and lives made richer by quality goods of impeccable detail.  Pure White Cologne wraps the client like a garment stitched to his exact proportions, fitting and superb in every respect, a complement to his innate style and a statement of his high standing.  Pure White Cologne has been compared to a burst of English mist, a fine and clean sensation on the skin like when a train blurs past, sending a gust of cooling moisture onto every pore, as in the 1844 J.M.W. Turner painting, “Rain, Steam and Speed.”

J_M_W_Turner_-_RainSteamandSpeedJ M W Turner Rain, Steam and Speed Photo Stolen WikiMedia

The CREED site has 30ml $205
SurrenderToChance starts at .5ml/$3

Do you wear any of the CREED line? Have you tried this one?

Till tomorrow,

Portia xx