Pivoine Suzhou by Giorgio Armani Prive 2014

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Post by Trésor

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I have an aunt on my father’s side of the family, his older sister, with the most exquisite garden you could possibly imagine. An utter celebration of splendid visual and olfactory delights, hues of emerald, titian, crimson and goldenrod dancing in the summer sunlight. This is one of my happy places, one of which I remember so vividly visiting as a child and finding myself in a state of inimitable euphoria; in awe all of the mind-blowing pulchritude which surrounded me. Of all of the flowers in this exquisite garden there was one in particular which I found to be the most beguiling, the sweet aroma of which stays with me to this very day and reminds me of some of the most beautiful summers I’ve ever had as a child; the peony. Recently a dear friend within the fragrance community generously gifted me a selection of samples one of which is a breathtaking interpretation of peony and the latest addition to Les Eaux from the Armani Privé collection: Pivoine Suzhou. One sniff and it’s safe to say that I was in love.

Pivoine Suzhou by Giorgio Armani Prive 2014

Armani Prive Pivoine Suzhou Giorgio Armani FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Mandarin, pink pepper, raspberry
Heart: Peon, rose, May rose absolute
Base: Amber, musk, patchouli

Pivione Suzhou begins its journey on the skin as the resplendent essence of juicy and ripe mandarin orange, as breathtaking and luminous as the glowing rays of midsummer sunlight, followed by the mouthwatering roseate nectar of fresh raspberries infused with the scintillating fuchsia sparkle of pink peppercorn. I think it would be rather difficult to experience this ebullient sequence without smiling and feeling an aura of joy overcome your spirit, it’s the quintessence of frivolity and cheer.

Beneath the coy sparkle of Pivoine Suzhou’s incipience the velvet pink petals of a peony blossom unfurl, impossibly fresh and glistening with morning dew; a prime example of perfumer Julie Massé’s particular penchant for treating floral notes with absolute elegance and subtle grace.

Armani Prive Ad Pivoine Suzhou Giorgio Armani FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

As the peony continues to bloom it then begins a dance in rhythmic synchronicity with the delicate essence of tea rose. As I am explaining this it has dawned on me that it comes across in text as a traditionally feminine elixir (not that perfume has a gender to begin with, but I digress) but the reality is that even though this composition has been orchestrated around a symphony of delicate florals and flourishes of dancing light it maintains a particular androgyny that you would expect of something marketed as an Eau de Cologne. As it dries down a gentle watercolour ambience of amber begins to materialize, softly variegating the edges of blush toned petals and making way for the blanket of gauzy musk which takes Pivoine Suzhou into its final moments on the skin.

Pivoine Suzhou Giorgio Armani   Shuangxi_Park_and_Chinese_Garden_Taipei WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

The sillage with Pivione Suzhou is beautiful tender but most certainly present, a treat for yourself and those you draw near. The longevity on the other hand is something of which I found myself delightfully surprised, it lasted for upwards of 8 hours on my unholy perfume eating skin. That’s bloody impressive for something which is marketed as a warm weather eaux in my opinion. I think this would be a wonderful first foray into fresh, ebullient florals or an excellent alternative to some of the more citrus laden fare that makes a cameo as the mercury begins to rise.

Pivoine Suzhou Giorgio Armani  wet peony Liz West FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Further reading: Sandra’s Closet
Larger Department Stores have the Armani Prive line

Do you have a particular flower which transports you to your very own happy place?

Until next time, kittens.

Trésor xx

Esxence 2015: Photo Essay

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Post by Val the Cookie Queen

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There was a time a couple of years ago when I said I knew some perfumers. I now have friends who happen to be perfumers. There is a difference. It is because of this that I was an “Epic Failure” when it came to sniffing anything new at the Esxence – The Scent of Excellence 2015. Fortunately you can read up on what really went down, perfume wise, on Meganinsaintemaxime, Chemistinthebottle, Colognoisseur and Cafluerbon.

Esxence 2015

Milan, Cookie Monsters and Hanging out with Friends

I managed to spend about four hours at the Esxence show itself. Most others spent three days. I hit the show with naked skin, with the express purpose of covering myself in Neela Vermeire´s Pichola. Why mess around with strips of paper? Neela Vermeire was exceptionally busy, but we still managed to grab half an hour together. With both of us talking nineteen to the dozen we managed to catch up quite well. I was thrilled to leave with the ultra-feminine (is that politically correct?) Pichola and a beautifully soft and stylish NVC suede clutch. Neela designed this herself and you can tell. Room for a phone, pockets for a compact, an 10ml perfume bottle, a lipstick and plastic money. Life in a bag.

Esxence 2015 Val #5

I took a look at the Masque fragrances, Aedes de Venustas Palissandre D’Or, Room 1015, and Gabriella Chieffo. I grabbed a bottle of Indult Tihota and will split it up and offer some to the APJers soon. I know, I know, I missed so much. Luckily the fabulous crew at First in Fragrance know what a space cadet I am and are sending me samples of the all important things that I missed. So actually I haven´t missed a thing. Smile.

Which gave me time to hang out with friends. Enjoy the few pictures that I took. I publicly thank Dr Fox, my friend, therapist and all round brilliant person for driving me there and back and for making sure I didn´t overdose on caffeine, tuberose or oud.

Bussis
CQ

Esxence 2015: Photo Essay

Esxence 2015 Val #1

Esxence 2015 Val #2

Esxence 2015 Val #3

Esxence 2015 Val #4

Esxence 2015 Val #7

Esxence 2015 Val #8

Esxence 2015 Val #9

Esxence 2015 Val #10

Esxence 2015 Val #11

Esxence 2015 Val #12

 

Vintage Cabochard Parfum by Bernard Chant for Gres 1959

Hey Vintage Fumies,

Recently I was lucky enough to find a 2/3 full bottle of the vintage Cabochard parfum in its gorgeous black & white pedestal box. It wasn’t cheap but it wasn’t outrageously expensive either and I had long wanted to own a bottle for myself, having sampled earlier in my fragrant life.

Vintage Cabochard Parfum by Bernard Chant for Gres 1959

Cabochard Gres FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Aldehydes, spices, tarragon, fruity notes, sage, lemon, asafoetida
Heart: Orris, jasmine, geranium, rose, ylang ylang
Base: Tobacco, vetiver, oakmoss, coconut, musk, patchouli, amber, sandalwood, leather

Bernard Chant: Cabochard 1959, Aramis 1966, Aromatics Elixir 1971. A trilogy or family of fragrance. His three masterpieces, all similar but riffing different elements. If you want to know what a car looked like then, below is a 1959 Cadillac.

Cabochard Parfum gres 1959-Cadillac WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Now my top notes are slightly rusty, not in a big way but they have changed from the sample I had worn. I will have to use this up in the next year or so and I don’t think that’s any great hardship. The fruity sparkle is herbaceous, aromatic and dense. Imagine being in the storeroom of an Indian bazaar, the spark and buzz of faulty electrics, fruit and veg in waxy cardboard boxes, sizzling spices, bitter herbs, and the scent of dozens of boxes of sandalwood soap. That’s as full on as you can imagine, heavy, hectic, psychedelic scent that manages to be all this and warm & classy too. That is quite a feat to keep something so big from flying out of control.

Cabochard Gres Mary_Tyler_Moore WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

The flowers are a bouquet and I can’t pick any of them out, not really pick them out though I get flashes of ideas of flowers. It doesn’t matter anyway because already the base notes are coming through: sandalwood, tobacco, patchouli, leather and oakmoss are the ones I can detect but what I really smell is Cabochard. It’s the base of Cabochard that IS Cabochard to me. A gravel voiced granny with a fabulous high end leather handbag, a cigarette, hair done and nails painted and attitude. She’s lived and loved her life, and is reveling in her twilight years. A little bit creakier but mind as sharp as a tack and still ready for fun, a drink and a laugh.

Cabochard Gres granny YourStyleJourneyPhoto Stolen YourStyleJourney

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and Perfume Shrine
My bottle from Ebay
FragranceNet has modern EdP $28/100ml before Coupon
Surrender To Chance has Vintage Parfum $6/.25ml

Do you have a vintage you love? Something that has changed in its newest form or is it gone altogether?
Portia xx

Louis Vuitton: Singapore City Guide

Hello Intrepid APJ Travelers,

As you may know Jin has accepted a new job and we have bought a new abode. Very exciting times and because we are unsure of when we’ll next be able to travel (probably January 2016 UK & Europe) we have decided to bring our November family visit forward to NOW, leaving Wednesday. We’ll do a few days in Singapore, where neither of us have stayed other than the airport, with one of my longtime girlfriends Julie and then go on to South Korea to celebrate Jin’s father’s birthday. We are taking them away to the West side of South Korea for a couple of days, their first holiday in years.

singapore DesignerPoint PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

So I thought it best to give you a glimpse of Singapore through the eyes of Louis Vuitton.
Do please enjoy,
Portia xx

Louis Vuitton Presents the Singapore City Guide

Montaigne by Richard Fraysse for Caron 2007

Hi there Frag Family,

Caron is a fragrance house that is very hit and miss for me. A bunch of my all time favourite fragrances are from them. With Bellodgia I have a horde of the parfum as well as an ample stash of the EdP. Infini, Parfun Sacre, Nocturnes, 119, Nuit de Noel, Tabac Blond and Royal Bain are all in my collection and that’s a LOT from one house. There are a bunch that don’t work though, and they REALLY don’t work, so it’s always nice to find a new one that does. My frag buddy Scott and I were shopping the importer sale the other day and we spied a Caron I’d not yet tried…..

Montaigne by Richard Fraysse for Caron 2007

Montaigne Caron FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Jasmine, coriander, bitter orange, mimosa, tangerine
Heart: Narcissus, black currant
Base: Sandalwood, amber, vanilla

So my batch code tells me my Montaigne is a 2007, so re-released with the reformulation and I think it did not do so well. It’s certainly not one of the Caron’s you read or hear much love for, Victoria at Bois de Jasmin delightfully scathing of the sandalwood accord and the frag in general. Her nose is 100 times better attuned to picking such things and I miss the screech completely. Maybe my bottle has had a lot longer to settle?

Opening spritz has me smelling this fabulous fruity hairspray and makeup scent, there’s something completely over the top and carnival about Mointaigne, it feels irrepressible to me. It’s so perfumey it’s almost a caricature of perfume. honestly the notes bear very little resemblance to what my nose and brain smell. I get a high octane, 100% synthetic, dance all night, laughing, singing along, party girl scent. If ever a scent swang from the chandelier then Montaigne is it.

montaigne-caron disco PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

Part of me is just laughing inside at how much fun someone wearing Montaigne could have.

Basically Montaigne wears pretty linearly for me, hairspray, nailpolish, makeup mixed with fun fruity tingles and a very thin dry down with a little amber/woods but really it is just a soft wash of sweet woods with a shade of fruit. This wash wafts softly around me for a few hours, longevity is quite good.

Further reading: Perfume Posse and EauMG
Beauty Encounter has $45/50ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4.50/ml

Do you have a Caron favourite? Tell me…. and why?
Portia xx

Costume National GIVEAWAY WINNERS

WOO HOO! Thanks for getting involved APJ, this is a particularly good giveaway. Thanks again to the whole crew at Libertine Parfumerie. You guys are amazing.

Portia xx

Costume National GIVEAWAY WINNERS

Costume National 10 ml Rollerballs

WHAT COULD YOU WIN?

This week we will have 2 winners who will receive one of these sets:
1. 10ml Rollerballs of Cyber Garden and Pop Collection
2. 10ml Rollerballs of Scent Intense and Homme
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DID YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me (portia underscore turbo @ yahoo dot com dot au) so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please go to Libertine Parfumerie<<JUMP, find any Costume National fragrance and ONE of its notes…. NO DOUBLE UPS!

Extra Chance?
Tweet:  Costume National Rollerball  http://wp.me/p3PURw-3Mn  

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Thursday 9th April 2015 10pm Australian EST
Winners were chosen by random.org

winners-are prospectsplusPhoto stolen prospectsplus

Connie

Gregory Young

The winners will have till Monday 13th April 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Gabriella's Top 5 Forgotten White Florals 2015

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Post by Gabriella

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Hello perfumed peeps!

I’ve been in a bit of a fragrance funk lately. Not much of my collection has inspired me and rummaging round the sample box and sniffing new releases have failed to set my world on fire. To get me out of this sad little rut, I decided to explore some white floral scents that have been overlooked, ignored or forgotten by the blogging community or the fragrance world at large. Happily, I have discovered some lost gems that have given me my perfume mojo back. Today, I’d like to share a selection of those with you, so I present:

Gabriella’s Top 5 Forgotten White Florals 2015

Gardenia Grand Soir Parfumerie Generale FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

1. Gardenia Grand Soir by Pierre Guillaume for Parfumerie Generale 2010

Fragrantica lists these notes in one line: w
White gardenia and sandalwood

The graceful gardenia. The reaction of the blogosphere was decidedly ho hum about this and I think the words “Grand Soir” were to blame. People were expecting opulence from Mr Guillaume and while the scent is not a huge overblown gardenia, I still think it’s absolutely wonderful. Here, the flower is stripped of all of its voluptuous elements: it’s a portrait of the flower’s bud at dawn, all green innocent and pure before the sun breaks and the blooms unfurl into all their heady glory. The gauzy flowers are tempered by a soft, milky sandalwood that amplifies the creamy elements and gives almost a beachy feel. The magic of this is that it is a quiet, contemplative and elegant rendition of a flower that is usually all vava-voom and femme fatale.

Further reading: Grain de Musc and CaFleureBon
First in Fragrance has EUR 95/50ml
Surrender to Chance starts at $9.99/ml
Hanae Keiko Mecheri FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

2. Hanae by Yann Vasnier for Keiko Mecheri 2000

Fragrantica lists these notes in one line:
Citruses, white flowers, wild berries, yuzu and crystalline musk.

The unexpected delight. Hanae been around for years, but I just happened to discover it for the first time the other day wandering round a local department store. The scent is meant to evoke spring in a Kyoto garden and it does just that brilliantly. A melange of crystalline white petals is accentuated by the delicate citrus tones of yuzu and a hint of white musk. A fragile, delicate scent that it just pure happiness in a bottle.

Further reading: Makeupalley and Scent of Abricots
Peony Melbourne has $219/75ml
Luckyscent has samples at $3/.7ml
Lily Comme des Garcons FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

3. Lily by Florence Idier for Comme des Garcons (Series 1, Leaves) 2000

Fragrantica lists these notes in one line:
Freesia, lily-of-the-valley, rose and syringa.

The uncomplicated beauty. Comme des Garcons are recognised for their quirkier creations and it’s usually the Series 2 Incense range that gets all the love. Lily is fact that the house can do simple and pretty and still come up trumps. It is a startlingly beautiful rendition of lily of the valley, something I had given up trying to find once Diorissimo was reformulated. The lily of the valley here has a verdant and very fresh quality, evoking tiny white buds after a rainshower. Rose, green notes complete the scent that has an invigorating quality akin to having a cool shower on a hot summer day.

Further reading: Basenotes
Luckyscent has $92/50ml and samples starting at $3/.7ml

Monyette Paris LuckyScentPhoto Stolen LuckyScent

4. Monyette by Tristan Brando for Monyette Paris 2007

LuckyScent gives these featured accords in one line:
Tahitian gardenia, French muguet du bois, hints of island vanilla orchid

Back in the day when I used to spend every free minute on the Makeupalley fragrance board, Monyette was mentioned frequently as one of the top tropical white florals. As time has gone on, so has perfume discourse and tastes and Monyette, along with its tropical gardenia sister, Kai, hardly ever get mentioned anymore. But if you’re someone like me that loves a creamy white floral with a definite beachy, yet sultry vibe, Monyette is a good cheap thrill of a fragrance. A simple sweet gardenia and orchid blend that evokes holidays, suntan oil and sexy, languid summer nights.

Luckyscent has the perfume oil at $45/1.8oz and samples at $4/.7ml. The EDP is $70/50ml and samples at $3/.7ml.

Whiteflowers Eau de Parfum YOSH LuckyScentPhoto Stolen Luckyscent

5. Whiteflowers 1.41 EDP by Yosh Han for YOSH 2010

Luckyscent gives these featured accords in one line:
Jasmine sambac, night blooming jasmine, violet, sweet pea, freesia, tea rose, rose maroc, gardenia, lily of the valley, soft lilac, Egyptian tuberose, Siberian fir, narcissus, pettitgrain

The ugly duckling to swan white floral. Whoa, yuck! Such was my initial reaction to this when I tested this. Whiteflowers opens with bracing green notes combined with a heavy indolic jasmine and rose maroc that is so sharp, I was tempted to rush and scrub it off immediately. But Whiteflowers is an example of a perfume where persistence pays. Subsequent testings had me actually looking forward to the brash, sometimes quirky opening and the drydown is just something special to me. It’s an astonishingly beautiful and understated elegant white floral that I could have easily overlooked. Jasmine, lilac, and gardenia combine fleur to create a mille fleur-style of fragrance, where white and green gauzy layers unfurl slowly and gently on the skin.

Further reading: EauMG and CaFleureBon
First in Fragrance has EUR120/50ml
Luckyscent starts at $4/.7ml

Whitefloweers Frangipani Hafiz Issadeen FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

So, what are your forgotten white florals? Is there a perfume that you love that you feel has been overlooked and desrves more attention?

With much love till next time!

M x

Le Galion timeline…a history lesson in Sydney

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Post by Ainslie Walker

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Nicolas Chabot (Ex-Dior/Givenchy/Estee Lauder-Paris) has painstakingly resurrected Le Galion Parfums. Nine original fragrances (tweaked for IFRA) were rereleased last year after a 30-year hiatus following Paul Vacher’s death in 1975. I met Nicholas at Libertine in Sydney where we sniffed through the historical collection recreated by nose Thomas Fontaine.

Le Galion timeline…a history lesson in Sydney

Le Galion Logo FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Le Galion was named after the seafaring vessels symbolic to Paris and has had quite some journey since 1930 when Prince Murat (Napoleon’s brother-in-law) founded the brand. In 1932 he created 222 based on sandalwood, myrrh, styrax, leather, vanilla, cedar and lavender. It remained unreleased until now, locked in an old box, abandoned. I love the soapy sandalwood note.

In 1935 Paul Vacher purchased Le Galion after already co-creating fragrances for Lanvin (Arpége, Rumeur and Scandal with Andre Fraysse) and working with Marcel Guerlain. In 1936, his first release for Le Galion, Sortilége, became iconic and remains the jewel of the brand. An extrait is to be launched later 2015. The 1960’s advert stated: “Sortilége, the fragrance that makes women faithful. To their fragrance.” Sounding so “Madmen” I absolutely love the back catalogue of Le Galion perfume adverts, and am keen to collect them.

Vacher, well known for his soliflores, released two in 1937: Tubereuse is feminine, sweet and green and predated Robert Piguet’s Fracas by 10 years. Mandarin, orange and galbanum sparkle with pink pepper and pear. Tuberose, rose, orange blossom and raspberry are sweeter middle notes. Cedar, amber and musk make up the base, a common pattern in Fontaine’s formulations.

Le Galion Ainslie & Nicolas 1Photo Donated Ainslie

I fell for Iris, the second soliflore, instantly. It’s buttery iris and green mimosa notes are enhanced with bergamot, citron, hibiscus lily, rose, galbanum and Fontaine’s cedar/ musk/ amber base. I could bathe in it!

By the 1950’s Vacher was considered a master of perfumery alongside Ernest Beaux, Ernest Daltroff, Jacques Guerlain and Edmond Roudnitska. It was the French “golden age of perfumery”. In 1946 he created Miss Dior and in 1963 Diorling for Dior fashion house. For 30 years following Le Galion provided raw materials to Dior Parfums also producing the concentrate for Miss Dior.

Le Galion Ainslie LibertinePhoto Donated Ainslie

In 1947 Special for Gentlemen was released, it was also the same year the stiletto heel was invented. Unique notes of citrus, lavender, cinnamon, amber, labdanum, oakmoss, patchouli mix with vanilla, castoreum, birch and opoponax. Easy to wear, distinctive and far from linear.

La Rose released in 1950 is not a soliflore, with notes of bergamot, violet leaf, rose, ylang-ylang, peach, water, lily, cedar, patchouli, vanilla and musk. To me it is sweet and dew drenched.

Beautiful and head turning, Snob was released in 1952 as “the most exclusive perfume in the world.” Containing Australian sandalwood, jasmine, rose, saffron, cedar, musk, mandarin, bergamot, apple, orange blossom, iris and tagetes.

Whip, released in 1953, predates Eau Sauvage by 13 years and yet has remarkable similarities. Tarragon, lavender and cardamom, jasmine, violet and iris, galbanum, oakmoss, patchouli, vetiver and leather give this real masculine beauty.

Eau Noble from 1972 contains citrus, spice, sage and leather, evidence the sexual revolution was in full swing! An extrait will be released in 2015.

Le Galion Ainslie and NicolasPhoto Donated Ainslie, taken by Clayton

Further reading: Australian Perfume Junkies and Colognoisseur
First In Fragrance has the Le Galion range €140/100ml

Which of the range would you like to try? Have you seen Le Galion’s fabulous vintage adverts? Do you own any vintage bottles from the brand?
Ainslie Walker xx

Le Galion GIVEAWAY WINNERS!

Hey there APJ,

As you all know, I FREAKING LOVE GIVEAWAYS! There are so many more coming up in the near future too, stick around.

Portia xx

Le Galion GIVEAWAY WINNERS!

Snob Le Galion FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

WHAT COULD YOU WIN?

This week we will have 4 winners who will receive:
1 x Manufacturers Mini (Iris, La Rose Snob, Whip. NO you don’t get to choose)
1 x decant of Sortilege
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DID YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me (portia underscore turbo @ yahoo dot com dot au) so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please comment with a Le Galion memory or a favoured resurrected scent.

Extra Chance?
Tweet:  Le Galion http://wp.me/p3PURw-3Lk  @nicolas27637539

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Sunday 5th April 2015 10pm Australian EST
Winners were chosen by random.org

Winners thegarfieldshow-diaryPhoto Stolen thegarfieldshow-diary

Nemo
Bube (via Twitter)
Ferris
Azar

CONGRATULATIONS!!

The winners will have till Thursday 9th April 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.