Fashion

Olfaction and Personality Survey

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 12 Comments

Hey There Fragrant Peoples,

Today I have something quite interesting that you may like to do. My mate Matthew is a student and he is studying Olfaction and Personality as an Honours Student and he is doing a survey to help with his Thesis. You can do the survey by clicking on the link.

https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/personalityandexpertise

The study takes approximately 15 minutes to complete, can be accessed from any computer using any browser, doesn’t require a download and can be accessed through some smartphones and tablets (it’s trial and error – the website says yes to iPhones, iPads etc but maybe not to some Android phones).

survey UPennPhoto stolen UPenn

Here is Matthew’s standard letter (slightly edited):

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My name is Matthew Lukjanenko and I am a Psychology Honours student under the supervision of Dr Mem Mahmut at Macquarie University in Sydney (mem.mahmut@mq.edu.au) completing my thesis this year on olfaction and personality. I am interested in whether people who have a keen sense of smell, by profession or through interest, have differing scores of certain personality traits when compared with the general public. This is an online study and can be completed anonymously. The study should take no longer than 10-15 minutes and will involve completing online questionnaires. If you complete the study you can elect to enter into a draw to win one of three $20 iTunes cards which will be drawn in late October 2013.
Below is the link to the study

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Please feel free to share the link with your colleagues or anyone you might think suitable to participate.

Thank you for your time.

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The study will provide useful information regarding the differences in how thoughts and emotions are processed and expressed between those with a keen interest in fragrances and those without.
I am hoping to recruit as many people as possible, there are no exemptions.
If people choose to participate, they will need to do so by Monday 22 July 2013.
I appreciate your help.
Matt 🙂
Survey AlpICTPhoto Stolen AlpICT

I appreciate your help too. This is one of the things EvieC and I hoped to do with AustralianPerfumeJunkies, grow perfume knowledge and awareness. Here is the link again,

https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/personalityandexpertise

We have an interview with Matthew later today where Jordan River asks a lot of the questions you may have.

Go to it,
Portia xx

Perfume + Tea: Victoria’s Secret + Harney and Sons

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 8 Comments

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Post by Brie

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Perfume & Tea Musings: The Middle Aged Sex Kitten

Victoria by Victoria’s Secret
Harney & Sons Royal Wedding Tea

Harney and Son’s Royal Wedding is part of their Historic Royal Palaces of England collection. I stumbled upon it at my farmer’s market in upstate New York and snatched it up after reading the tea “notes”. A delicate Chinese white tea, comprised of pink rosebuds, cornflowers, marigold petals and notes of almond, coconut and vanilla rounding out the floral, this is truly a royal tea. I have paired it with Victoria by Victoria’s Secret.

Harney & Sons Victorias SecretPhoto by Brie’s family

Victoria was launched in 1989, the very first fragrance from the highly popular English (USA from San Francisco: Thanks Undina) lingerie company. Sadly, the perfumer is unknown and it was discontinued, to be replaced with light fruity concoctions with cheeky names that are so prevalent when one walks into a VS store in my local mall. I attempted to research the notes for Victoria but came up with nil. This glorious rose amber fragrance came in a regal fluted rectangular shaped bottle rimmed in gold metal with a royal blue cap. The bottle was as stunning as the perfume itself. It was a part of my perfume wardrobe from the time of its launch until it disappeared in the late 90s. Ironically, my perfume despising co-worker, with whom I share an office, had several bottles of Victoria. It is the ONLY perfume she ever purchased. She wore it as a young woman because men would approach her in bars and restaurants, inquiring about her scent. It is thanks to her that I am once again the happy owner of a partially full bottle.

Victoria's secret Bardot LippyeyesMUAPhoto Stolen LippyEyesMUA

Victoria is what I wear when I want to feel a weensy bit regal and a whole lotta sex kittenish: in the late evening, with fragrant candles illuminating a darkened bedroom, in bed with my hubby sipping Royal Wedding Tea and wearing Victoria perfume and nothing else. What do you wear when you want to be the sexiest kitten in town?

Brie x

(Ed: I couldn’t help but add a shot of Australia’s Miranda Kerr as a Victoria’s Secret Angel)

Victorias Secret Miranda Kerr NYDailyNewsPhoto Stolen NYDailyNews

Petit Fracas 2012 by Aurelien Guichard for Robert Piguet

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 22 Comments

Hello Fragrance Family,

For many years tuberose lovers, white flower lovers, would talk lovingly of Fracas: that saucy, sensual, bubblegum fragrance that lured many a perfumista through the doorway and down the wormhole. Even the Fracas haters would compliment its artistry, its sweet green sappiness that could read as erotic or toxic, depending on your viewpoint and skin chemistry. I have a very old spray set of Fracas parfum that has weathered time quite well and a bottle of the modern EdP.

As you may know we had Joe Garces from Robert Piguet in Sydney this week and he kindly offered us a special APJ Piguet Masterclass. You’ll find some of the snaps here at APJ on Wednesday if you’re interested in the fun day we had. It was EXCELLENT!

Petit Fracas 2012 by Robert Piguet

Petit Fracas FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, mandarin, pear
Heart: Tuberose, jasmine, gardenia
Base: Cocoa, musk, sandalwood

Recently I got a bottle of Petit Fracas from Libertine Perfumerie and can’t believe how similar and different the Petit Fracas and original Fracas are. Joe Garces tells us that when he went to be CEO for Robert Piguet the house was in deep shit. It needed to be turned around somehow so they decided to add some new fragrances and revitalise some of the old ones with reconstructions that are as close a nod to their same name predecessors as can be produced in modern perfumerie. As they still had a bestseller called Fracas why would they tamper?

Well the story goes that Joe’s daughter hates Fracas, detests it. Which is highly believable in the current age of fragrance tastes. So Joe had the idea to bring something completely new and modern to Fracas to make it more youth oriented, a better version of the fragrances that what many younger fragrance wearers are spritzing now: with its basic body coming from the Fracas mold. I can’t remember who had the idea but someone said gourmand was in and they should add chocolate. ADD CHOCOLATE? To FRACAS?!? So someone DID add chocolate to Fracas, lightened it up, gave it a fruity punch at the beginning and a more interesting and traveling story than original Fracas.

Fracas Sexy Ladies Telegraph.UKPhoto Stolen TelegraphUK

How does it smell on me? Well the fruit leads the way and it’s a milky fruit, like pear and citrus zest whipped cream with a dash of vanilla ( but that could be early chocolate signs). The white flowers are already a part of the equation but they don’t fully take centre stage because there is no room for them until about 20-40 minutes in. It’s fruit, fruit, fruit but not in the ubiquitous modern designer fragrance way, this is hefty fragrance and you feel fully perfumed though in a modern way. There is still some air between the notes, like a glossy, bright and very slightly fizzy aura. The bubble gum, sticky, sappy green candy swoosh heralds the moment of white flower take over. It is regal and alluring, a powerful intoxicant that is less herbaceous than Fracas original and a little bit more fun.  Maybe I’m imagining it but Petit fracas is not Petit, it is younger but not smaller and I think it would be an excellent choice for brides and girls on a night out.

The chocolate is not as pronounced as I expected it to be and reads more vanilla in my nose, and milky, and there is something dark that may be a nod to chocolate, but it seems like dark, bitter chocolate, and only a hint.

Wear time is better than average wit whispers left after 7 hours and I think it way too fragrant for most offices but try it, see if they let you. It’s worth it.

Joe Garces #01Joe Garces: Robert Piguet CEO

Joe was honest about the need to continually tweak to maintain currency and to stay within the IFRA guidelines, also the need to keep the juice consistent because some years the naturals that are used come in extremely different to previous years, or way more expensive or less product because of drought etc so every batch is tweaked to make it as much the same smell as every other bottle you’ve purchased as possible. Interesting.

Further reading: The Candy Perfume Boy and Ca Fleure Bon
Libertine Perfumerie has $198/100ml
I could not find a sample of Petit fracas on any of the major sites. SO ANNOYING!! You’ll have to go to your nearest department store that stocks Robert Piguet.

See you tomorrow. I hope your weekend was good.
Portia xx

Sun by Pierre Bourdon for Jil Sander 1989

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 18 Comments

Hello Fragrant Fairies,

While in Europe this was an impulse buy, it was a good deal and I love the packaging. It’s not something I’ve seen available in Australia which is funny because I think it the perfect Aussie scent.

Sun by Jil Sander 1989

Jil Sander Sun FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Amalfi lemon, bergamot, cassis, palisander rosewood, fruity notes, African orange blossom
Heart: Iris (orris root), ylang-ylang, heliotrope, carnation, lily of the valley,
Base: Vanilla, tonka, cedar, benzoin, styrax, amber, patchouli, sandalwood, musk

The night after I bought Sun, Jin and I were having dinner with Birgit (Olfactoria’s Travels) and her adorable husband Michael and I decided in the minus 5-10 Celcius weather that I definitely needed a little Sun. Interestingly it was Michael who said he recognised the fragrance and Birgit was so surprised, it was one of her favourite fragrances when they were first dating. How uncanny is that?

I can understand it being a great love of a fragrance because it’s so fun and easy to wear. While not being a super force power frag it is beautifully blended and noticeable, quite often people will ask what I’m wearing when I am in Sun. Honestly I find it extremely hard to pick out the notes listed in Sun but like the sun it’s warm and I also find it comfortable like an old jumper or jeans that you love and they fit perfectly. That’s how Sun makes me feel. Like the feeling of contentment, you don’t have to push to enjoy it, it just is.

Sun Jil Sander Sun Through Trees hdwallpaperslistPhoto Stolen hdwallpaperslist

I get the green, fruity, citrus opening and the flowers all come rushing in dressed up as a fabulous bouquet with a lean towards white floral and as it warms into amber woodsiness after about 6 hours I know there will still be remnants tomorrow morning that will smell fresh and clean and beautiful. No wonder Sun has been around for so long, every year it gets a couple of flankers too but Sun continues and there are hardly any in the online discount stores.

I think you could definitely wear Sun as a guy or a girl, it would be a super work scent as long as your office isn’t frag-phobic and it even goes beautifully with date night, sensual rather than siren but they’ll get the idea. Sun has stayed on my bureau since we returned from Europe and gets quite a lot of skin time, it’s a spritz and forget frag that I know smells awesome and goes with everything. Tonight I wore it out with friends for dinner at a bar and Trivia and then Bingo at another bar, Sun was a perfect fit.

Sun Jil Sander MeetUpPhoto Stolen MeetUp

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels
Essential Mall has $50/75ml
ThePerfumedCourt is the only place I could find samples and start at $4/ml

Have you ever tried Sun? Or any of its flankers? Did you love it?
Portia xx

The ad is KILLER!!

I’d like to thank the gorgeous Neela Vermiere for telling me to change perfumers name from Bourbon to Bourdon. THANKS!!

Gucci by Gucci EDP by Ilias Ermenidis 2007

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 27 Comments

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Post by FeralJasmine

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Since the recent death of someone I loved deeply, I find myself preoccupied with white florals. At first this might seem like an obvious extension of the traditional funeral flowers, but I think it goes far deeper than that. Of all the fragrances, white florals are simultaneously the most indolic-animalic and the most transcendent. They remind us that death coexists with astounding beauty. When we approach the country of death, they waft us to the threshold and then anchor us from stepping through. They are hypnotic, narcotic, both mesmerizing and comforting. The purest and the dirtiest of scents, they call out our inner angel and our inner demon.

Orange blossom is perhaps the most dualistic of the white florals, sweet-angelic or earthy-animal or both. Orange blossom is my obsession right now. For days after the memorial service I floated around in Houbigant Orangers et Fleurs, feeling unanchored. The morning that I realized that I was returning to Earth, I sprayed myself with…….

Gucci by Gucci EDP 2007

Gucci by Gucci EDP FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

The Gucci that I refer to here is the original Gucci by Gucci EDP in the heavy square brown bottle with gold cap. This is worth stressing, since there is a lot of other Gucci stuff that I can’t stand and wouldn’t want anyone to think that I was wearing. The most frugal perfumista can afford it, since you can find big 2.5 oz bottles for under $50, and minis or decants for a lot less. There is some astounding twaddle about it online, much of which I think may really be about some other Gucci scent. On Fragrantica the notes are given as guava, Haitian tiare flower, patchouli, honey, and musk, which leads me to wonder if some people know orange blossom when they smell it. Patty of the Perfume Posse featured it in her guide to the best of orange blossom fragrances, and of course she got the notes right:
Orange blossom, heliotrope, orris, vanilla, citrus, musk, cumin, and thyme.
In fact, her opinion is so apt that it’s worth quoting:
“ I think Gucci EDP is one of the sexiest perfumes made. It’s skanky, but not vulgarly trashy. It handles orange blossom in such naughty, naughty ways, it takes my breath away. Gucci tore a piece page from the Caron Narcisse Noir Playbook when they abandoned any pretense of orange blossom being innocent.”

Gucci by Gucci Orange Blossoms KousKousRestaurantPhoto Stolen KousKousRestaurant

On my scent-eating skin and in our parched desert climate, the effect is subtler. Gucci EDP goes on in a happy haze of lovely and naughtily indolic orange blossom. The cumin is there from the beginning, but it is low-key and serves to emphasize the orange blossom and not overpower it. As the open fades, a very subtle hint of thyme combines with the soft musk and cumin to suggest a lovely soft earthy leather. Orange blossoms and soft leathery musk; what a combination! If the Houbigant is celestial orange blossom, this is mortal orange blossom, never far from its very earthbound roots. If I apply it lightly before leaving the house, I can wear it to work and my perfume-averse work buddy will sniff appreciatively rather than wrinkling her nose. If I spray more lavishly, the effect is more “Why, hello there!” and is no longer suitable for work, although lots of fun.

Further reading: Now Smell This and Perfume Posse
Fragrance Shop has $41/50ml tester
My Perfume Samples starts at $2.50/ml up to $7.50/5ml

Gucci by Gucci White Flowers Casket FloristExpressPhoto Stolen FloristExpress

Life is full of events that carry us to places we never wanted to be, and thank goodness for all the things that help us stay grounded, like love, friendship, beauty, truth, memory, as well as good food, wine and perfume.
FeralJasmine XX

Le Maroc Pour Elle By Andy Tauer 2005

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 17 Comments

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Post by Val the Cookie Queen

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Scented Summer Solstice Salutations!

I spent my summers between 1977 and 1982 at the Free Festivals at Stonehenge and Glastonbury. In the days before it cost to go to the massive festival that is now Glastonbury and the days before wire fences around the Stones. Only the mud was the same. Hawkwind, Gong, Benjamin Zephaniah. We would go for three weeks in a row, sometimes more. On Solstice morning we would watch the Druids performing their rituals, and sit on the stones listening to distant music and waiting for the sun.

It was the Welsh Teepee People who were the first to arrive at the festivals. A community of people who lived year round in teepees. Drop-outs, alternative folk, people looking for another way of life. To me they were beautiful, otherworldly, mystical ……..
What really left a lasting impression on me, was the smell as you were in the area of their encampment.
Patchouli, sandalwood, rose, jasmin, woodsmoke, amber, incense. My love for these notes remain with me until this day.

Stonehenge SacredHomePhoto Stolen SacredHome

No 01 Le Maroc Pour Elle by Andy Tauer 2005

Early in 2012 I received a sample of Le Maroc Pour Elle. I was not prepared for it. I grabbed a couple of squirts as I ran out the door to go shopping. A kaleidoscope of fragrance and memories stunned me. No fragrance had ever made me cry. Until now. I put my nose to my arm, and yes, I did inhale. Glorious. Time traveling. Deep into my past. Unreservedly sumptuous.

Heaven knows how Andy Tauer came up with this; I can only put it down to the fact that he is a chemist! Because I am sure I never saw him in a teepee.

Le Maroc Pour Elle ValCQhttp://www.dayleannclavin.com Photo taken especially for APJ

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Mandarins, lavender
Heart: Moroccan rose, jasmine
Base: Atlas cedar, balm of oriental woods, patchouli, sandalwood

Le Maroc Pour Elle is such an intense experience, that you need to let the notes breathe. Skin to air. It is the ultimate summer scent. I have said it before. Mr. Tauer is an artist. You can´t cover up a painting and the same goes for his creations. Let them out. They develop layer after layer. This isn´t a winter fragrance. I really look forward to warm, sunny days, when this is at it´s best. Use sparingly. It´s very pure. You need to annoint yourself with this.

It is absolutely feminine. Womanly. Erotic. High class hippiedom.

I would guess there is a good bit of magic in there too. If Le Maroc Pour Elle had been around in 1977 it would have been illegal.

RosePicker PhotopediaPhoto Stolen Photpedia

Further reading: The Non Blonde and Perfume Smellin’ Things.
Tauer Perfumes has €83.40/50ml
Lucky Scent has $130/50ml and samples
Surrender To Chance starts at $7/ml

Until next time, stay cool.

Bussis
Val CQ xxx

Baghari by Aurelien Guichard for Robert Piguet (1950)2006

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 7 Comments

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Gabriella

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Hello fragrance friends!

My recent posts have featured a classic Robert Piguet fragrance, Fracas, and a perfume that makes me feel like the idealised version of myself, Guerlain’s Chamade.

Today I want to talk about a perfume that encapsulates both of these elements: the sumptuously elegant….

Baghari 2006 Robert Piguet for women

Baghari Robert Piguet FragranticaPhoto stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Aldehydes, bergamot, neroli
Heart: Bulgarian rose, jasmine, iris, violet
Base: Amber, vanilla, musk, vetiver

Baghari is a rich aldehyde perfume and whilst I have many aldehyde fragrances I adore (Chanel No 22, Divine’s L’Ame Soeur, Lubin’s Nuit de Lonchamp), Baghari is the one that really truly embodies and encapsulates retro glamour to me. It is a perfume that speaks of pearls, ruby red lips, darted stockings, silk peignoirs and nipped in waists. Glamour, elegance, dry martinis and cat’s eyes sunglasses.

Bagari was originally launched in 1950 and developed by perfumeur Fabrice Fabron. It the final fragrance introduced into the Piguet range during the designer’s lifetime. It was then reformulated and re-introduced in 2006 by Aurelien Guichard and it is this version I am reviewing today.

The perfume opens with the sparkle of aldehydes shot through with the crisp green citrus of bergamot. The aldehydes here are soft and twinkling as opposed to the sharper champagne fizz of Chanel No 5 and 22 or Le Labo’s Aldehyde 44.

Baghari Snow Lamp WeHeartItPhoto Stolen WeHeartIt

The effect is one of soft yellow streetlamps on powdery snow; the glimmer of candelight on a crystal glass. The bergamot tempers the sparkle and gives the opening a crisp green quality. Baghari then softens quite considerably with the neroli and the rose lending a rich floral vibe and making the composition smooth, graceful and feline. Baghari here is richer and creamier, and it almost feels edible, like sucking on an orange cream ice cream or a biting into a tangerine fondant chocolate. If the perfume were a fabric, it would be of apricot silk, fluid and comfortable against the skin.

Into the drydown, amber joins the fray, anchoring the powderiness of the aldehydes and the citrus tones of the bergamot and neroli. The silk has been spun into the plushest velvet, cocooning the skin with its soft warmth.

Baghari Cat Cocoon InthralledPhoto Stolen Inthralld

Baghari has the magical quality of completely transforming its wearer. Spritzed on the weekend when feeling ordinary in jeans, I become all cheekbones and grace donning the very best couture silk.

And yet, despite being enamoured for years by Baghari’s charms, I have never actually purchased a bottle, instead surviving on decants and samples. It’s one that I just seem to forget to buy and I’m now vowing to change that.

Baghari elegant Lady WorldBabyContestPhoto Stolen WorldBabyContest

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and Perfume Smellin Things.
Libertine Parfumerie has $150/50ml (with FREE Australian delivery and they guarantee their stock is real and fresh)
FragranceNet has $75/50ml
Surrender to Chance has samples starting at $3/ml.

Have you ever tried Baghari? What is your favourite aldehyde fragrance? Is there any perfume you adore and have not got around to purchasing a bottle.

With much love until next time!

M x

Tease by Steve DeMercado for Paris Hilton 2010

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 10 Comments

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Post by Katrina

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My last APJ review was for Jessica Simpson Fancy Nights. In the discussion that followed Azar made the comment “I recently went on a Steve Demercado jag. My favorites are his darker, smokier, boozy scents including Fancy Nights and Queen.” I still don’t have Queen but I have discovered two more Steve DeMercado fragrances in my collection – Paris Hilton Tease and Nicole by Nicole Richie. Today I will be reviewing……

Tease by Paris Hilton 2010

Paris Hilton Tease FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Fuji apple, white peach, bergamot
Heart: White flowers (frangipani, jasmine, tuberose)
Base: Amber, blonde wood, hot sand

Paris Hilton has released 16 perfumes since the original Paris Hilton fragrances for women and men debuted in 2005. They are a mixed bag. You never know what you’ll get when trying a new Paris Hilton perfume. Many are the typical sweet and fruity girly celebuscents but there are also a few mature perfumes in the Paris Hilton line and Tease falls into this category. In case you missed it Portia has previously confessed her love for a couple of Paris Hilton perfumes. Check out her reviews of Fairy Dust and Siren.

Paris Hilton sexy blogcrackPhoto Stolen blogcrack

Paris Hilton’s Tease is a beautiful white floral scent that is strong and long lasting. Fragrantica describes it as a chypre-floral-oriental. It has a fresh fruity opening with apple and bergamot but it is not overly sweet. The fruit notes give lightness to the perfume against the heavy white florals, which are there from the start and dominated by tuberose. The tuberose is medium strength – not too strong for me to enjoy. Tease has a light woody base and lasts all day.

Paris Hilton TEASE absinthrillPhoto Stolen absinthrill

Further reading at Now Smell This
FragranceNet has $10/30ml before discount
My Perfume Samples starts from $2/ml to $6/5ml

I really like Tease but my favourite Paris Hilton perfume is still Siren. Is anyone else willing to own up to a favourite Paris Hilton perfume?

For more celebrity perfume news and Paris Hilton perfume reviews please check out my Celebrity Perfume Website (<<<JUMP).

Katrina xx