Charlatan by Rasei Fort for Fort & Manle 2017

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Portia

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Hey Hey APJ,

I have a mate who makes perfumes, yeah a quiet creative genius. He is Rasei Fort of Fort & Manle. In Australia it’s hard to get a perfume company started because we have a small population with an even smaller affluent few who can afford luxury perfume as a hobby. Most people have a small fragrance wardrobe under 5 bottles and never even venture near a niche brand, let alone an Indie one. So it has been a wonder of the modern world when their Fatih Sultan Mehmed became a finalist in the Art and Olfaction Awards 2017!

Just so you know, Rasei has taken the reins of Fort & Manle by himself now. Charlatan has been given a reboot this year so it is utterly his composition. He sent me a bottle to try and also to share.

Charlatan by Fort & Manle 2017

Charlatan by Rasei Fort (2018 Reboot)

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Pear, dark chocolate
Heart: Damask rose, Moroccan jasmine, vanilla, tuber
Base: Osmanthus, Australian sandalwood, amber, Madagascar vanilla

Colour me IMPRESSED! This could easily be one of the Armani Prive line or an early by Kilian. YET, it is infinitely more interesting. Smooth and balmy, a fragrant highly polished stone, at once earthy and yet utterly manufactured to be just this scent.

Notes? My nose reads very little as notes. It seems the whole has melded so seamlessly that Charlatan is only of itself.

Pear, light frisky on open and into the heart. Vanilla done in sheer and weightless new planes. Woods as creamy and resinous as caramel malted milk. Everything else has melded to a magnificent, magnifiscent.

How did this young man create something so perfect?

Can we also talk about the bottle and presentation? Stellar. Although pedestal opening boxes shit me to the rage, everything else is stunningly perfect. I am in love and gushing like a young thing.

If you love perfume and fragrance then you must try Charlatan. For me, this is what the idea of niche really should mean. Small batch independent work ruled by passion but with an eye to business. Bravo Rasei, excellent work.

Fort & Manle parfum has $230/50ml
Peony Melbourne also has the range
Fort & Manle Discovery Set $60/8 x 2ml

Charlatan GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week there will be 10 winners who will receive:
1 x Fort & Manle Charlatan decant (from my bottle)
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please go to the Fort & Manle site. Pick a fragrance and tell us its name, plus ONE note it has. (NO DOUBLE UPS)
If you put more than one note you will be disqualified, that’s being greedy.

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 17th December 2017 10pm Australian EdsT and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Thursday 21st December 2017 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit

 

2017 Top 5 by Cookie Queen

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Val the Cookie Queen

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Yuletide Greetings APJ

Although there has been a ton of new stuff launched this year I cannot pretend to have been interested in much of it. I try to select a few that spark my passion out of a sea of dross. Call me a bitch, I really don’t care. My selection comes in no particular order. If was to chose one that heads my short list, there would be no prizes for guessing which one it would be.

2017 Top 5 by Cookie Queen

Naja by Vero Kern for Vero Profumo

Please note that Naja is a voile formulation and not an edp. In truth it is parfum strength and needs to be treated as such. I feel a deep connection to Vero Kern and had the privilege of accompanying her on the creative voyage as she brought Naja to life. It was a bloody hard trek. Completion took nearly three years of pleasure and pain. The rich tobacco and deeply fragrant osmanthus is narcotic.

Superstitious by Dominique Robin for Frederic Malle

Freaking fabulous. Jasmin, rose, peach, amber, incense, a vetiver that melts into patchouli.
All wrapped in waxy aldehydes. I was stopped at traffic lights the other day, and took a moment to close my eyes and sniffed my wrist, until I could breathe in no more.
As the car behind me beeped, and I opened my eyes, I saw the bloke in the car next to mine staring at me. I am still laughing. My ten mls has nearly gone.

811 Absolute by Mathilde Bijaoui for Giovanna Antonelli Perfumes

A deeply aromatic spicy oriental. This was the surprise of the year. If it hadn’t been for The Silver Fox telling me to get a hold of the collection, I would have written off the perfumes
Fronted Giovanna Antonelli, a Brazilian actress. I mean, really? The 811 lingers for hours on the skin, and I swear there is a golden tobacco running through it. I took the bottle to my hairdresser a couple of
weeks ago to grab a SOTD shot for Instagram (yep, I am a sad person) and left with every stylist wearing it. Came home and did two decants.

Black Perfecto by La Petite Robe Noir for Guerlain

Commercial and fairly mainstream – meaning I can buy it in a store not 3 km away from me. Black tea, black cherry, black licorice and an marvelous black bottle. With the almond and a slight smokiness it´s just the bizz in our frosty and foggy winter. I would go so far as to say I wouldn’t wear it in the summer

L’Animal Sauvage for Marlou

This is the first perfume from Marlou. Claire from Take One Thing Off recommended I give it a go.
I wore a musk from the head shop when I was about seventeen. My mother would tell me that I stank like a polecat. And really since this time I have not explored the musk shelf, although I did use up 10mls of MKK from Lutens a couple of years ago.
This is sexiness pure, wrapped in florals that lie to you.

I have also worn a lot of Hiram Green´s Arbolè Arbolè, Malle`s Portrait of a Lady and Dries Van Noten, and Luten`s La Fille de Berlin.

Perfumista highlights 2017 would be meeting Portia and Jin in Milan, and finally making it to Aus Liebe Zum Duft/First in Fragrance up in Germany.

Perfume tips for 2018 would be Dusita`s Fleur de Lalita and Hiram Green´s Slowdive.

That’s it. A fabulously scented year, as always.
Tune back in on the Feast of Stephen. I´ll give away something you might like.

Thanks for tuning in.
Have a Cool Yule.
Misteltoe Bussis.
CQ

 

(ED: Photos by Val)

SOTD 11 – 17 December 2017

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Portia

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Hi APJ,

I see these SOTD (Scent Of The Day) threads all the time on Facebook and they are really good conversation generators.

SOTD 11 – 17 December 2017

The idea is you’ll chime in through the week with whatever scent you are wearing. You don’t need to be super knowledgable, have high faluting tastes or be a published author to comment. Just tell us what fragrance you’re wearing, smelling, buying etc.

You probably won’t have time to write every scent, every spritz but whenever you feel the mood take you share your current spritz and a few things about it. Maybe you love/loathe it, want it, are excited by the notes/bottle/SA who sold it: WHATEVER! As always here at APJ, taking sides never means taking offence and everyone keeps it respectful and light, even though we can sometimes trawl the depths.

Hopefully you will come back and see if anyone has responded to your comment and you can reply to them.

Over 100 responses I will draw a Scent Sample Pack (from my collection)

This week:

  1. Neela Vermeire Creations Pichola
  2. Hermès Monsieur Li
  3. Bogue Gardelia
  4. Guerlain Meteorites
  5. Vintage Bal a Versailles EdT

Comment purposefully on yours or anothers comment & you’ll have a chance, random.org will draw on Sunday.

LAST WEEKS WINNER: JackieB

Send your address to portia_turbo AT yahoo DOT com DOT au

 

Go To It Crew.
Portia xxx

Vintage CHANEL No 22 EdC WINNERS

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Portia

.

YAY! A wonderful competition, thanks for getting involved crew.
Let’s see who the winners are!
Portia xx

Vintage CHANEL No 22 EdC WINNERS

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Aldehydes, Lily, Lily-of-the-valley, Neroli, Orange blossom, Tuberose
Heart: Jasmine, Nutmeg, Rose, Ylang-ylang
Base: Iris, Vanilla, Vetiver, Frankincense

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week there will be 3 winners who will receive:
1 x Vintage CHANEL No 22 EdC decant (from my bottle)
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Sunday 10th December 2017 10pm Australian EdsT
Winners were chosen by random.org

ClaudiaS

Alice

Hamamelis

The winners will have till Thursday 14th December 2017 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit

Vintage CHANEL No 22 EdC

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Portia

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Hi Vintage Vamps,

There’s something incredibly special about vintage. Sure, I know people bang on about them changing over time and that you’re not smelling the perfumers original intent. BAH Humbug. I’ll enjoy fragrance any which way I like and please don’t try and ruin my fun. Chasing the elusive, finding a near perfect gem, wearing something never to be created ever again that has been kept sometimes for over a century. THAT is fun, exciting and special.

Vintage CHANEL No 22 EdC

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Aldehydes, Lily, Lily-of-the-valley, Neroli, Orange blossom, Tuberose
Heart: Jasmine, Nutmeg, Rose, Ylang-ylang
Base: Iris, Vanilla, Vetiver, Frankincense

This is the cleanest vintage CHANEL No 22 EdC I’ve smelled. The aldehydes are still fizzy and a little oily as they rise off my skin in combination with the most magnificent bouquet. What can I smell? White flowers and creamy ylang over incense and a bunch of stuff I can’t place or name. What they smell like for me is CHANEL No 22.

I can tell you how it feels to wear it though. Carefree. Like a burst of warm sunshine on a gloomy day. Maybe the thrum of your blood through vines after a hearty belly laugh. Lunching with friends somewhere cheap and cheerful with a water view.

Warm winds, hot sand and a convertible car ride.

Sure, No 22 EdC is a glamour puss, bold and sophisticated. It does seem to me when I wear her that she may be all that but when it’s a 22 day she’s on holidays. It may be nearest beach or it could be the Greek islands, wherever no 22 lands she’ll be welcome.

Vintage CHANEL No 22 EdC GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week there will be 3 winners who will receive:
1 x Vintage CHANEL No 22 EdC decant (from my bottle)
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please tell us what your favourite CHANEL fragrance is

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 10th December 2017 10pm Australian EdsT and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Thursday 14th December 2017 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit

Top Five Hot Weather Fragrances: Gabriella 2017

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Gabriella

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Hello perfumed peeps!

We’ve had quite sultry weather in Melbourne lately with temperatures over 30C for days straight. The heat has caught everyone by surprise, including me, as it usually doesn’t get this hot until January or February. The change was sudden too: one day I was in jumpers and coats and luxuriating in my dark rose and woody scents and the next day I’m sweltering in a sundress and wondering what perfume to wear. So, today I want to share my:

Top Five Hot Weather Fragrances

Fragrantica

Amyris Femme by Francis Kurkdjian for Maison Francis Kurkdjian 2012

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lemon leaf, orange leaf
Heart: Amyris, iris
Base: Vetiver, agarwood (oud)

The Parisian chic choice. Amyris Femme dazzles from the opening with bright and juicy lemon blossom coupled with soft iris and delicately spiced woods. It’s a joyous scent that is still incredibly elegant and poised.

Further reading: The Candy Perfume Boy
Mecca Cosmetica has 70ml/$228

Fragrantica

Carnal Flower by Dominique Ropion for Frederic Malle 2005

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, melon, eucalyptus
Heart: Ylang-ylang, jasmine, tuberose, salicylates
Base: Tuberose absolute, orange blossom absolute, coconut, musk

The sexy diva. Carnal Flower is the perfume equivalent of diving head first into a huge florist’s fridge brimming with creamy tuberose flowers. Lush tuberose is front and centre, but the eucalyptus provides a lovely green quality to the fleshy white blooms laced with a touch of coconut.

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin
Mecca Cosmetica starts at 10ml/$84

Fragrantica

Lily by Florence Idier for Comme des Garcons: Olfactory Library 2000 (reissued 2017)

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Lily of the valley, freesia, syringa, dog rose buds

The lovely green one. I’ve struggled to find a good lily of the valley scent since the original Christian Dior Diorissimo was reformulated beyond recognition, but this may just be it. Here, the lily of the valley is very stemmy and verdant but devastatingly pretty.

Mecca Cosmetica has 50ml/$130

Fragrantica

Original Vetiver by Olivier Creed and Erwin Creed for Creed 2004

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Ginger, mandarin, bergamot
Heart: Vetiver from Haiti, Mysore sandalwood, Florentine Iris
Base: Musk, ambergris

The “It’s too hot for perfume” choice. Many vetivers tend to be on the heavier side but this is the soft caress of a feather on skin. Mandarin and bergamot keeps things bright and fresh with a touch of gentle iris and salty ambergris.

Further reading: Katie Puckrik Smells 
Libertine Parfumerie has $339/75ml

Fragrantica

Rosa Greta by Fabrice Pellegrin for Eau d’Italie 2017

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Litchi, white tea
Heart: Rose bud, Damascus rose infusion
Base: Cedarwood, ambrox

The summer office scent. Made to commemorate Greta Garbo’s disappearance from the paparazzi in the Amalfi Coast in 1938, Rosa Greta is joyful but still very elegant. Lychee and a gorgeous tea note lend a vibrancy to soft rose.

Mecca Cosmetica starts at 100ml/$204

So what are your favourite perfumes for when the mercury starts to rise?

With much love until next time!

G x

SOTD 4 – 10 December 2017

.

Portia

.

Hi APJ,

I see these SOTD (Scent Of The Day) threads all the time on Facebook and they are really good conversation generators.

SOTD 4 – 10 December 2017

The idea is you’ll chime in through the week with whatever scent you are wearing. You don’t need to be super knowledgable, have high faluting tastes or be a published author to comment. Just tell us what fragrance you’re wearing, smelling, buying etc.

You probably won’t have time to write every scent, every spritz but whenever you feel the mood take you share your current spritz and a few things about it. Maybe you love/loathe it, want it, are excited by the notes/bottle/SA who sold it: WHATEVER! As always here at APJ, taking sides never means taking offence and everyone keeps it respectful and light, even though we can sometimes trawl the depths.

Hopefully you will come back and see if anyone has responded to your comment and you can reply to them.

Over 100 responses I will draw a Scent Sample Pack (from my collection)
This week:

  1. Divine EdP
  2. Rouge Hermès
  3. Goldfield & Banks Wood Infusion
  4. Aedes de Venustas Palissandre d’Or
  5. Vintage CHANEL No 22 EdC

Comment purposefully on yours or anothers comment & you’ll have a chance, random.org will draw on Sunday.

LAST WEEKS WINNER: MmkInPA

Go To It Crew.
Portia xxx

Kyphi by Ellen Covey for Olympic Orchids 2011

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Erica Golding

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Hello all of you perfume lovers!

Fall down a rabbit hole with me. I have stumbled upon a natural perfume that almost dives into chaotic emotion, yet somehow maintains a deep, peaceful balance. Its purity and elegance are just astounding. I sense echoes of my own vulnerability hovering above my skin as it rises around me.

Tonight, I am intoxicated by the vapors of: Olympic Orchids – Kyphi parfum

Kyphi by Olympic Orchids 2011

Kyphi by Ellen Covey

Kyphi Olympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Frankincense, myrrh, benzoin, labdanum, beeswax, spikenard, henna, lemongrass, wild orange, calamus, cassia, cyperus, saffron, juniper berry, spices

If you love true frankincense and honeyed myrrh, you will lose it when you inhale this gorgeous composition! The intricacy and stealthy complexity of Kyphi make it unlike any perfume I’ve loved. The aroma is woody but not dry, sweetened but not gourmand, spiced but not sharp. Singing accent notes such as wild orange and saffron ring like laughter, easy and genuine.

I want to saturate my life with this fragrance. I want it in my hair, on my clothes, in my atmosphere, and on my linens. Kyphi is truly an achievement, a stunningly gorgeous study in ancient art and modern technique. Wear this parfum if you want tendrils of incense to reach into your spirit and caress the center of your being.

Kyphi Olympic Orchids British_Museum_Egypt Tolomeo_I WikiMediaWikiMedia

Further reading: Life With Perfumes
Olympic Orchids has samples from $3

From Olympic OrchidsBased on the common themes that run throughout various ancient formulas for the Egyptian incense that was burned to welcome the night, this version of Kyphi is a 100% natural mix of resins, essential oils, and absolutes, a liquid version of the incense formula that can be worn as an uplifting and offbeat perfume and is especially well suited for meditation, yoga, or other activities that require concentration. 100% natural.

Kyphi Olympic Orchids Sphinx NadineDoerle PixabayPDI

Do you ever love a perfume this much, or am I just crazy? What else from Olympic Orchids do I need to try?

Until next time,
Love and light,
Erica

Geisha Marron EdP by Maria McElroy for Aroma M 2017

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Val the Cookie Queen

.

Hi there super scented APJers,

From New York.

“Brown us surely the most underserved colour in all of perfumery. More than any other, it evokes the musty scent scent of succulent overripeness at sweetness that dares to skirt the edge of seductive decay.”

Geisha Marron EdP by Aroma M 2017

Aroma M Geisha Marron EdP by Maria McElroy

Aroma M

Maria has slowly expanded her original oil-based perfumes to include eau de parfum versions. I adore the oils, but a lot of people prefer
to spray. The Geisha Marron Eau de Parfum is a creamy warm autumnal lily. Smelling completely French, it totally surprised me. I have
the Geisha Noire and the Vanilla Hinoki, both orientals, and the Geisha Marron couldn´t be more different. Geisha Marron is white blooms tinged with auburn, with the sparkle of citrus; mandarin, bergamot and grapefruit, correct balance being critical to Maria McElroy´s creations. If the scent of the lily traditionally see the Spring in each year, then it would be appropriate that they continue their journey through the Autumn, preparing us for the chill of winter. This time wrapped in speckled brown leaves, fallow fields, and the bare trees with their dark branches.

Aroma M

In French, Marron means both chestnut and the colour brown. Maria has included the Japanese chestnut and magnolia to complement the lily and reign it in, so as not to let it quite take over. Geisha Marron EdP is the perfect introduction, for someone wanting to move from more traditional perfumes, into the artisanal world of the fabulous New York based Aroma M Perfumes.

Aroma M

You can order from Aroma M. It is a bit of a pain ordering from the US but there is a German company that carry some of the line and Maria McElroy will happily inform you as to the best way of going about it.

 

Chestnut flavoured bussis,

Val CQ X

SOTD 27 November – 3 December 2017

.

Portia

.

Hi APJ,

I see these SOTD (Scent Of The Day) threads all the time on Facebook and they are really good conversation generators.

SOTD 27 November – 3 December 2017

The idea is you’ll chime in through the week with whatever scent you are wearing. You don’t need to be super knowledgable, have high faluting tastes or be a published author to comment. Just tell us what fragrance you’re wearing, smelling, buying etc.

You probably won’t have time to write every scent, every spritz but whenever you feel the mood take you share your current spritz and a few things about it. Maybe you love/loathe it, want it, are excited by the notes/bottle/SA who sold it: WHATEVER! As always here at APJ, taking sides never means taking offence and everyone keeps it respectful and light, even though we can sometimes trawl the depths.

Hopefully you will come back and see if anyone has responded to your comment and you can reply to them.

Over 100 responses I will draw a Scent Sample Pack (from my collection)
This week:

  1. Guerlain Vol de Nuit Evasion
  2. Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur
  3. Tauer Un Rose Chypree
  4. Rochas Madame Rochas (vintage)
  5. Mona di Orio Carnation

Comment purposefully on yours or anothers comment & you’ll have a chance, random.org will draw on Sunday.

LAST WEEKS WINNER!! Melanie

Please send me your address to portia _ turbo AT yahoo DOT com DOT au

Go To It Crew.
Portia xxx