Mugler: Interview with David Koma

December 27, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom

Post by Portia

Hey there Fashion/Perfumistas,

David Koma has been fairly circumspect about his Creative Directorship of house Mugler. It’s nice to see him interviewed and find out a little about the boy who has brought the Mugler label into the 21st century. Don’t be expecting the outrageous shock value pieces of Mugler past, this is a sleeker, cooler and richer model. So sharp you could be bored until you notice the detail, the impossible patternmaking he puts his crew through and the ultimate genuflection to the young, lithe, shapely female form.

Photo Stolen Mugler

I hope you enjoy it,
Portia xxx

Mugler: Interview with David Koma

Alien by Thierry Mugler: A Sambac Story – Official Film

December 25, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 2 Comments

Post by Portia

It’s not often that the Thierry Mugler crew bring out a video about their fragrances so I got pretty excited when this landed in my box. Then to watch it and see that it’s not really about Alien the fragrance but more about harvesting sambac jasmine in India and you can colour me thrilled.

I hope you enjoy the 3.30m film
Portia xx

Alien by Thierry Mugler 2005

Alien by Dominique Ropion + Laurent Bruyere.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Jasmine sambac, Cashmere wood, Ambergris

Alien, Thierry Mugler: A Sambac Story – Official Film. Alien was crafted from the powerful idea of the sun’s rays conveyed in the form of a raw block of intense ingredients. This was based on an accord of natural sambac jasmine, the most powerful jasmine scent, echoed by a duo of amber and wood.

Alien, Thierry Mugler: A Sambac Story – Official Film

MERRY CHRISTMAS APJ CREW!

December 25, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 37 Comments

Post by Portia

Hey there Crew,

Whether you celebrate or not we hope the spirit of loving your neighbour and peace on earth will be with you at this time. Here are some helpful hints to get you through Christmas 2015.

Congratulate yourself on surviving another year more or less intact.
Nobody gets what they want as a present, smile and thank them for the thought. Straight to Goodwill on Monday.
Remember in times of family stress over the Christmas period, God gave you legs to walk away from a disagreement.
No ones home is perfect, yours is fine.
Everyone is doing their best to cope and fit in, even though it doesn’t look like it.
Unless someone has died everything else is dealable or fixable.
If alone on Christmas, you have to make your own joy. Spritz or dab lavishly of your most exquisite fragrance.
Nobody wants to do the dishes while in a food coma, clear the table of empty plates, scrape them and leave them neatly in the kitchen for later.
Think of three things you can be grateful for. Say “Thank You” out loud for each one.
Remember you are part of the APJ International Fragrance Family and we love you to bits. Thanks for being part of our fragrant lives.

What’s going on here in Sydney? We are having 3 generations of my BFFs family for lunch and a couple of our mates. Every family brings a meat, a salad and a dessert. Jin & I also supply the booze, drinks and bread rolls. It’s very relaxed, loads of fun and I feel so blessed to have them coming, that our home fits everyone and that we get to spoil them all. The day runs from around 11am through to 4pm and then slowly people move off to their next event, there will be some late stayers who will hang out for dinner and some serious couch surfing.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, neroli, ylang-ylang
Heart: Jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, iris
Base: Vetiver, sandalwood, vanilla, amber, patchouli

What fragrance will I be wearing? This is not set in stone but my idea is to wear some vintage CHANEL No 5 EdC that I bought from the Linda Beth Ross estate and some vint-ish CHANEL No 5 parfum. It’s so easy to wear in the height of summer and that lovely fizzy, out of this world bouquet is timeless. I may change my mind but that’s the plan…. Last year CHANEL No 5 worked so well for Boxing Day I wore it the next day too.

What are you doing for Christmas? Whether there are one or 100 of you please let us know. What fragrance are you wearing?
Peace be with all of you.
Portia & the APJ Crew xxx

Val CQ’s Christmas GIVEAWAY WINNERS!

December 25, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 5 Comments

Post by Portia

Thanks Val for a superv fun and fabulous giveaway. You are so generous.

Merry christmas all,
Portia xx

Val CQ’s Christmas GIVEAWAY WINNERS!

Photo Donated Val

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have one winner who will receive:
1 each decants Mito and Cuir d’Ange (from Val’s bottles)
P&H Worldwide

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Thursday 24th December 2015 10pm Australian EST
Winners were chosenfrom the armadillo

Photo Stolen markmontanoblogs

Mito

GARA

Ingeborg

Cuir d’Ange

BB Mc

The winner will have till Monday 28th December 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Miss Dior vintage EdC by DIOR 1947: Live Video Sniff

December 24, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 22 Comments

Post by Portia

Hey Fumies,

It’s Christmas Eve so I thought we could do with a fun video and giveaway.

There’s nothing quite like the thrill of receiving vintage fragrances in the mail. It’s always a lottery and you never know till it’s on your skin how fabulous, or otherwise, it’s going to smell. Here’s an adventure we had recently.

Miss Dior vintage EdC by DIOR 1947

Miss Dior vintage EdC by Jean Carles + Paul Vacher

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Galbanum, Bergamot
Heart: Jasmine, Rose, Gardenia
Base: Oakmoss, Ambergris, Sandalwood, Patchouli

Recently I had a sealed vintage bottle of Miss Dior EdC arrive in the post. The box was discoloured and as soon as I unwrapped the cellophane there was unmistakable scent. We were pretty worried. Then we opened the bottle and only about 1/4 was missing, that’s pretty good. When I did the first spritz though it all turned to shit and the propellant started spurting and only putting my thumb over the geyser stopped it. Rushed to get a large decant bottle to put it in but the combination of propellant, hot day, inability to get the nozzle out or in and all other drama meant I only got to keep about 10ml of a 100ml bottle.

Here’s a video of the excitement

Photo Stolen AllSteele

Miss Dior vintage EdC GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 2 winners who will receive:
1 x Miss Dior vintage EdC decant
some extras
P&H Worldwide

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged. Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me (portia underscore turbo @ yahoo dot com dot au) so I know.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please tell us any story of DIOR, fashion or fragrance

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 27th December 2015 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winner will be chosen by random.org
The winner will have till Thursday 31st December 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Poison by Edouard Flechier for Christian Dior 1985

December 23, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 5 Comments

Post by Joseph Sagona

Hi APJ,

Review #300

I have a history with Poison, it’s one of my Mothers all time favorite perfumes, she still wears it to this day, every time I wear it, it reminds me of her. I can remember being nine years old and going into my Mother’s bed room and on top of her dresser would be that beautiful purple bottle of Poison, I would steal a few sprays here and there, I loved the smell so much, it was so sweet and fruity.

My Mother has no idea that I do fragrance reviews, she would probably wonder why I do them, so I never told her, but she does know I love fragrance. This review I will show her, I want her to know how much I love her and what she means to me, and for her to know that Poison is the fragrance that started me on my love, passion and amazing journey of fragrances today.

Poison by Christian Dior 1985

Poison by Edouard Flechier

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Brazillian rosewood, plum, wild berries, anise, coriander
Heart: Carnation, jasmine, opoponax, African orange flower, tuberose, white honey, rose, incense, cinnamon
Base: Virginian cedar, heliotrope, amber, vanilla, vetiver, sandalwood, musk

Dior’s Poison is the type of fragrance that you have to have attitude and confidence to wear, it is strong, classy, elegant, charming, sophisticated and bitchy.

I get the Plum, White Honey, Incense, Wild Berries, Tuberose and Cinnamon it opens up with a lush, dark plum and a tart, sweet wild berries, the dark plum and wild berries are strong. Then after thirty minutes the plum dissipates, the wild berries soften, in comes a dry, aromatic cinnamon and a whispering, creamy tuberose, the cinnamon is soft, the tuberose is mild.

After three hours the cinnamon dissipate and the tuberose softens. In comes a golden, silky white honey and a warm incense with a touch of sweetness, the honey and incense are mild.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Poison reminds me of Jeanne Arthes Cobra, and Christian Dior’s Poison Extrait, Cobra is spicier, citric and stronger woods, Poison Extrait has stronger florals, softer spices and comes off soapy.

Poison is very fruity, sweet, dark, floral, syrupy and unisex. It leans more towards the feminine side, with soft woody and spicy undertones: a floral fragrance. This can be worn all year ’round, it would be better suited for the Fall and Winter, I get good projection and good longevity, a Christian Dior masterpiece.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Further reading: Yesterday’s Perfume and Black Narcissus
FragranceNet has $73/50ml before Coupon
My Perfume Samples starts at $2.50/ml

What is your Poison? Have you ever worn it?
Joseph Sagona

CHANEL: Paris in Rome 2015/16 Métiers d’Art show

December 20, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 3 Comments

Post by Portia

Hey Crew,

it’s another beautiful season at CHANEL. Karl Lagerfeld has worked his magic, or pushed others to work theirs, and the results are so wearable. This is beautiful fabrics cut perfectly and I can see the wealthy CHANEL devotees lapping this stuff up. Bravo! Not really groundbreaking but some interesting reinterpretations and some fun frivolities. The girls makeups all look so soft and I also am happy the beehive is on a return.

I put the Behind The Scenes first because it’s only a few minutes but if you have the time check out the full show. Fabulous.
Portia xx

Photo Stolen CHANEL

CHANEL: 2015/16 Métiers d’Art show

Behind the Scenes Film – Paris in Rome

CHANEL: Paris in Rome 2015/16 Métiers d’Art show

Sotto La Luna Tuberose by Andy Tauer for Tauer Perfumes 2015

December 19, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 6 Comments

Post by Portia

Hi there Independent Niche Nerds,

Andy Tauer became known on the frag scene through blogging about his fragrance creation adventures. He was the first perfumer to engage the world in such a way and he and his style of perfumery are loved even though his scents can be polarising. Many people have problems with his Tauer-ade: a sweet citrus/honey/amber baseline to my nose that can last days on skin and indefinitely in fabrics. Personally I really like his style and I purchased a decant of his newest offering from Surrender To Chance which has just arrived. Scott was over and we decided to trial it first on paper and then on skin. It’s even more fun testing fragrances with a mate because different people pick up different nuance.

Sotto La Luna Tuberose by Tauer Perfumes 2015

Sotto La Luna Tuberose by Andy Tauer

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Cinnamon, cloves, geranium, galbanum
Heart: Tuberose, ylang-ylang, jasmine
Base: Tuberose, patchouli, amber

I can’t tell you what I was expecting from Sotto La Luna Tuberose but I was surprised by what I got. The green and oily, petrochemical reminiscent opening still manages to be smooth and is offset by sweet bubblegum. It’s an engaging dichotomy that keeps my nose glued to my wrist. Tuberose, imagine a bunch of tuberose on a table in an air conditioned office, Sotto La Luna Tuberose. Tuberose with that unreal, artificial coolness. We get a lovely sappiness of whitest green, like cutting hydrangeas and their sap.

There are also herbal, tropical, balmy and resinous notes flowing through and both Scott and I were convinced (without looking at notes) that there is a honey that is cleaned of most of its animalics but leaving a thick, glutinous sweetness that has nothing to do with the 21st century craze for confectionery. Maybe this is Andy’s amber.

Photo Stolen Flickr

After about 30-40 minutes we couldn’t decide how to describe the smell and came up with three similar but all just wide of the mark: smoky caramel, lightly burnt vanilla or sun pinked skin after a day at the beach. It’s an undercurrent running beneath the tuberose which stays right to the end of the fragrance. For anyone who has ever been upset by the longevity of the tuberose ferociousness in Versace Blonde, SL Tubereuse Criminale, L’Artisan Nuit de Tubereuse, Piguet Fracas or Ava Luxe Tubereuse Diabolique then here is a tuberose for you. Ferocious at the start and maintaining a fun level of outrageous throughout its lengthy lifespan. NSFW people unless you are in a very cool workplace where they like people to be fully fragrant.

How is Sotto La Luna Tuberose different? Longevity, tuberose staying power, opening oily green and bubblegum together and the patchouli/amber is different, unpickable for us as exactly a thing to reference we spent ages trying to find good and easily understandable correlations. Scott said he will now buy a decant to see if he loves it as much as he thinks, being a bit of a BWF hater. Different enough? Definitely.

Photo Stolen Flickr

Further reading: Now Smell This and Perfume Posse
IndieScents has $145/50ml
Surrender To Chance has samples from $3.45/.5ml

What is your Tauer favourite?
Portia xxx

ck2 by Calvin Klein 2016: New Ad

December 18, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom

Post by Portia

Hey Gang,

New stuff from Calvin Klein is always enough to set my heart aflutter. Though I was never a big wearer of the Calvin Klein range I was surrounded by it and once I did discover them, either through memory or their general bonhomie, I really enjoy them. There are quite a few in the collection now. Some vintage, some new, all worn with enjoyment.

ck2 by Calvin Klein 2016

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Wasabi, mandarin, violet leaf
Heart: Wet cobblestones, concrete, pebbles, orris root, rose absolute
Base: Vetiver, sandalwood, incense

They are saying available 2016 but I think it might be already available some places. Cool bottle.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

ck2 by Calvin Klein 2016: New Ad

The ad is cool. MOST of Calvin Klein’s ads are cool, this one goes a step further. Even hinting at same sex couples. I love the gritty fun rawness it captures, like remembering a summer of love in the depths of winter.
Enjoy,
Portia xx

Lann-Aël by Amélie Bourgeois for Lostmarc’h 2007

December 17, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 4 Comments

Post by Portia

The Lostmarc’h thing passed me by. I remember there being a flurry of excitement at release but since then I haven’t really noticed much buzz. Someone sent me a handwritten sample of todays fragrance and I had to go do some digging once I sprayed. Having been released in 2007 and still around in the current niche market speaks volumes, also its price is unbelievably reasonable for niche. It was nearly impossible to get into the decant, which is why it’s taken so long to get to it but curiosity can overcome all barriers. I think I may be hooked….

Lann-Aël by Lostmarc’h 2007

Lann-Aël by Amélie Bourgeois

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Vanilla, hay, apple, wheat, milk

The Lann-Aël opening is slightly dry and a hint of apple but no big whack of it. Quite rightly, general consensus on the blogs is sweet breakfast cereal, think Fruit Loops or Crunchy Nut Cornflakes, sugary, a little nutty and with milk splashed over all liberally. It’s not the smell in the bowl though, no way, it’s the smell in your mouth as you start to chomp it all together.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

There’s something a little rice-ish about Lann-Aël, Jin’s rice has a very particular smell when he reheats it in the microwave and I am getting scent memory flashes. No wonder this is a hit. It’s summer here in Sydney, temperature is around 35C (95F) at 10am and the sweet warmth of Lann-Aël and its yummy vanilla dry down is working a treat. Not cloying or sickly but balmy and rich feeling.

The opening is the big ticket item in Lann-Aël, after that it smooths to a comfortable vanilla plus some light spices and resins, a sweet amber. It’s not bad or generic but it isn’t ground breaking either. I smell good for hours, 5-6 even in this heat.

Photo Stolen WikiMedia

From LuckyScent: Breakfast in fairyland: lighter-than-air buckwheat cakes; bowls of warm, pudding like cereal topped with cream ladled from the top of the milking bucket; sweet apples “borrowed” by the pixies from a nearby orchard. A delectable honeyed fruit opening eases into a soft and mellow vanilla-tinged milkiness that is as comforting as a mother’s embrace.

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and Perfume Posse
LuckyScent has $85/100ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $3/ml

Do you ever feel the need to wear something fun, frivolous and foody? This could be it for you
Portia xx