Jardins de Bagatelle by Jean Paul Guerlain for Guerlain 1983

May 15, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 22 Comments

Post by Poodle

Hello APJ, I’m Dreaming of Spring

It’s supposed to be spring here. I was out playing in the dirt of my flowerbeds just days ago but today it’s cold again. Hopefully by the time you read this it will be spring. Until then I have to pretend with my perfumes. One that conjures up a bright spring day is ….

Jardins de Bagatelle by Jean Paul Guerlain for Guerlain 1983

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Jasmine, violet, aldehydes, lemon, bergamot
Heart: Gardenia, rose, orange blossom, tuberose, magnolia, ylang-ylang, orchid, lily-of-the-valley, narcissus
Base: Tuberose, cedar, vetiver, patchouli, musk, neroli

I’ve gone through a few bottles of this in my life. It was my signature scent in high school. I wanted to smell classier than the Impulse Body Spray the other girls wore. I figured something from Guerlain was a good bet. I hadn’t worn it since then but recently got nostalgic and bought another bottle.

Jardins de Bagatelle has always seemed to be an unlikely Guerlain to me. It doesn’t have the powdery notes I always associate with the brand and it’s classic perfumes. It’s a huge floral. Bear in mind this was released in the big 80’s and it has some of the intensity you’d expect but doesn’t smell dated.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

At first spritz, I’m hit with a blast of aldehydes and citrus, big and lush in the top notes. I can definitely smell violet, jasmine and many other flowers. I’m okay with spritzing but I could see someone who likes a lighter touch perhaps dabbing on instead. The effect isn’t so much sniffing a bouquet as it is sticking your face into it. I will add that the perfume softens beautifully within an hour on me even though the opening is so bold.

Chateau de Bagatelle Photo Stolen Wikpedia

As much as I try I have a hard time picking apart the notes. Once it softens it’s like the flowers come and go. Imagine walking through a garden and as you meander down the path you catch a whiff of a rose here but just around the bend there’s some tuberose, oh wait, no, perhaps that’s gardenia. When I think I have almost isolated a note, it changes on me. It’s supposed to smell like a garden and it does. The flowers are bright and dewy. There’s also a certain amount of green to it as well which keeps it smelling cool and fresh. I always smell something that reminds me of tea as well even though tea isn’t in the notes. The perfume is beautiful down to the base and never turns soapy or dirty. As the flowers fade it becomes a cozy scent with a bit of warm musk and wood.

Photo Stolen WikiMedia

Further reading: Perfume Shrine and Monsieur Guerlain
FragranceNet has EdT $68/100ml after coupon
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $3/ml

Overall I’d say that Jardins is bright and beautiful. It doesn’t smell like every other floral out there. It’s one of the perfumes I pick when I want to feel pretty. I was afraid it would remind me of high school but I guess enough time has passed to allow me to wear it and think spring.

Until next time…

Hugs
Poodle x

Top 10 Spring/Autumn Fragrances 2014 Perfume Reviews

March 23, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 33 Comments

Hello Gorgeous APJ Family,

It’s Top 10 Spring/Autumn Fragrances time again, my favourite seasons are Autumn and Spring, the mid seasons. I love that in both these seasons the weather can be remarkably similar, sunny and warm on one day, freezing or blustery on another, nights are cool to cold and so the overall wearings are quite similar. Yes, we can grab a white floral to really ring in Spring or remember Spring in Autumn but then it’s also nice to spritz a heavy amber on those super cold nights and a sweet fizzy citrus will work almost anytime. These fragrances are on my desk and within easy spritz reach and they only stay on the desk while they are getting regular spritz time, if they’ve been sitting there for more than a fortnight without attention they go back in the cupboard.

Photo Stolen Flickr

Photo Stolen Pixabay

Top 10 Spring/Autumn Fragrances 2014 Perfume Reviews

24 Faubourg EdT – Hermès: White flowers and fruit that melt into ambery goodness. How can you resist this lovely gem from Hermès. Every time I spritz it I wonder why I don’t do it every day. I love the bottle, that it’s Hermès and that I smell fantastic for 4-6 hours.

Anyway – Juliette Has A Gun: ADDICTIVE!! Beware Anyway. Nothing like I’d ever thought I wanted to smell. A citrus and, though it doesn’t say it anywhere, pineapple concoction that heads into woods and oudh territory throughout its life. the ultimate drag queen fragrance, so feminine and butch at the same time.

Futur – Robert Piguet: The ungreenest green ever. Sappy, sweet, green and extremely wearable all year round. Futur has been out of the cupboard and on my skin quite a bit lately and it fits any occasion.

Liberte – Cacharel: A screaming, sizzling, BarBQ’d orange that is so sugary and ends up in a vanilla/patchouli/orange finale. I’ve loved it for years and now that it seems to be discontinued I’ve had to grab a couple of back up bottles.

Mohur – Neela Vermeire Creations: The headiest, most complex and wonderful rose there is. Surrounded by interesting other notes and accords but it is the rose that shines through for the whole of Mohur’s life. I am crazy for this fragrance and can’t wait to have a Mohur Extrait bottle.

Shalimar EdP – Guerlain: My old faithful. Shalimar fits every season, every mood and every event. From it’s citrus gelato opening to the resinous, vanilla and leather dry down I love Shalimar through and through. If I had to pick a fragrance to be my one and only Shalimar would be it.

Sharp – Andrea Maack: A new entry into my life in FB. I am enjoying Sharp a lot. Weird, synthetic orange blossom packed tight with musks and an ambery vanilla, all washed over by an unearthly metal/marine accord that is both enticing and repellent. Sharp is both the freshness of Spring and the coming darkness of Autumn.

Skin on Skin – L`Artisan Parfumeur: Skin on Skin is an interesting fragrance, poo poo’d by many of the fragrance intelligentsia because of it’s similarity to Traversee du Bosphore. I have now spent time wearing both, though not simultaneously, but I like the plastic saffron edge and the cool suede. There are more similarities between Bottega Veneta and Skin on Skin to my nose and Iris Prima has some too. I spritz Skin on Skin a LOT.

Vanille & Narcisse – L’Occitane: So you want something cheap and cheerful? Something that has the narcissus of spring and the vanilla of autumn? Look no further. Vanille & Narcisse is wearable, pretty, inexpensive and a great wear. This is one I would recommend as a gift for any non perfumistas and many who are. LOVE LOVE LOVE.

Wild Ginger Chai – SOIVOHLE: The sweet, spicy, ginger and milk opening. The dry, black tea smell and the memories of India. I love Liz Zorn’s work, she captures my imagination every time and her prices are so freaking reasonable for fragrances that are world class. Yum.

So there they are. My current mid-season Top 10. They will probably be changed by next week but right now these ten fragrances are getting good skin time and working extremely well in the changeable conditions that the mid-seasons hand us.

Loads of love to you all, wherever and in what ever weather,
Portia x

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

Snowcake by LUSH vs Cuir Beluga by Guerlain

March 20, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 20 Comments

Post by Chairman Meow

Hi APJ,

Having read comments on akafkaesquelife that Lush’s Snowcake was longer lasting version of my beloved Cuir Beluga, to be had at a fraction of the price, I considered the gauntlet well and truly thrown, so off I duly trundled to find a sample. You heard it folks. Cuir Beluga and Snowcake are about go toe to toe for the title of World Champion Delicious Marzipan Fragrance, so LET’S GET RRRRRRRRRRRRRREADY TO RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRBUMBOOOOOOOOOHHHHHHL!!

Snowcake by LUSH vs Cuir Beluga by Guerlain THROWDOWN

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Marzipan, benzoin, rose, cassia and almond

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Aldehydes, tangerine
Heart: Immortelle, patchouli
Base: Vanilla, amber, suede, heliotrope

Bingbingbing! Snowcake sluggishly dances around Cuir Beluga with some evasive footwork while Beluga watches on with a bored expression… and BAM! Beluga uncorks a huge left hook out of nowhere, and Snowcake goes down like a lead balloon. Nothing more to see here, ladies and gentlemen.

These are mostly listed as essential oils in the ingredients list, with the implication that it’s a mostly “natural” perfume, as is Lush’s wont. Certainly natural is how it smells.

Snowcake, with its billing as a scent of marzipan, and name that promises a mouthwatering dessert in fact delivers, cruelly, sadistically, the scent green bananas. It goes on tart, grassy and replete with an uncomfortable urge to scrape the fuzz of unripe fruit off one’s teeth. What’s more, by the magic of whichever wacky esters are in this concoction, you even get the slightly ferrous whiff of bruised and oxidised banana peel moments later.

Photo Stolen WikiMedia

The almond is there I suppose, morosely mooning about in the wings, crapulent from the night before, and does make a reluctant showing once the banana finishes its strangled chorus. It plays a short olfactory set and then passes out on stage in its own banana scented vomit. The only resemblance to Cuir Beluga that I could detect is when Snowcake is at the very end of its pitifully short life, one that makes the notoriously ephemeral Cuir Beluga appear a veritable Methuselah of perfumes, when it’s just an enfeebled, barely perceptible almondy-vanilla powder.

This would all be tremendous if Snowcake wasn’t thus named and was instead called “The Smell Of ‘Nanas Turning”, but as it is, it’s just a bit of a letdown for this confused reviewer. Am I missing something? Did the Aussies get a beta version of the Snowcake that everyone else is in raptures about?

No, I suspect the problem lies with me. The truth is, I’m quite partial to synthetic scents, with their durability and ability to transport me to fantasy olfactive landscapes, which is much harder to accomplish with natural scents. Actually, I’d say I’m quite the fan of artificial things in general. I prefer my chicken and corn soup laden with MSG. I’m looking forward to meeting my future robot manservant. I want my drag queens to look like caricatures of women.

And I like smelling stuff that smells better than the stuff it’s meant to smell like.
Pass me those bolt-ons will you, there’s a dear.

Chairman Meow x

Champs-Élysées by Jean Paul Guerlain 1996

February 8, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 51 Comments

Hey there Frag Hags,

So much hate for this lovely scent. I have managed to find a couple of other lovers in further reading but the majority don’t like it. Apparently people think it loud, really? I just don’t get loud…..

Champs Elysees by Jean Paul Guerlain 1996

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Blackcurrant, almond, anise, melon, peach, violet
Heart: Lilac, lily of the valley, hibiscus, almond flower, rose, mimosa, peony
Base: Almond tree, cedar, benzoin, vanilla, sandalwood

I have a story, it’s a little bit embarrassing because I’m worried you are all going to kick me to the perfumista curb. I have Champs-Élysées in EdT, EdP and Parfum strengths and also have the body wash. I love it so much and you can get it at the discounters for NOTHING!! Like, seriously, they almost pay you to take their excess stock off their hands. I bet there are a dedicated few who love and wear Champs-Élysées almost exclusively and they are going to be GUTTED when it dies the death of the unloved scent, discontinuation. My belief is that 10 years after this is axed it will be worth a fortune. That core of lovers will be bereft and RICH.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

Today I’m wearing a 2011 Champs-Élysées EdP, it’s the 75ml and while I adore the bottle design, to me it harks back to the art deco era but there is a stupid, ugly whilt plastic shoulder and neck that gives the air of a budget $3 “Smells Like” scent from the dollar shop.

Straight out of the gate I get a watery melon backed up by the soft waxy plastic feel of mimosa, that recedes into the background quite quickly as a sweet milky green-ness flows through. Champs-Élysées is so GIRLY! Soft , fresh, innocent and totally animalic or humanity free. The cleanest of all my Guerlains I can understand why hardcore perfumistas eschew its sheer, even prim and airy charms, there is only floating, no heft or pushiness, just a breeze blowing through that happens to be beautifully scented. The almonds milk stays softly insistent through Champs-Élysées life and is the closest thing to a grounding force that it has. This is what 60% of the celebuscents are trying to be and I can imagine it being a perfect first grown up fragrance for a teen or tween.

Fortunately Guerlain, while keeping Champs-Élysées light and youthful, has done it with such a deft hand that it is ageless, the lilacs and peonies through the heart blend beautifully with the return of mimosa and if you are 16 or 600 years old I think you will be pleased, if this is what you are after. Normally my skin sweetens scents but here I get the almonds all the way through and the woods and vanilla play only supporting roles as an amorphous chorus.

Surprisingly, for something so ethereal and wispy, Champs-Élysées has good longevity and 5-6 hours go by before I lose the scent completely. The sillage is quite mild as is the projection, I think you could wear Champs-Élysées to work as long as the space is not confined or your workplace completely fragrance averse. Really, I don’t get the loud thing, not loud on me at all.

Further reading: Scents Of Self and EauMG
Beauty Encounter has $20/30ml EdT, $55/50ml EdP and $125/30ml Parfum
Surrender To Chance only have $5/.5ml Parfum

Are you a Champs Elysees lover or a hater? Please leave your feelings and a short why in the comments. No judgements made on any answers, either way, as long as you keep it respectful.
Portia xx

The below photo is me standing outside Guerlain 68 Champs-Élysées, Jin and I decided to leave it to the last night we were in Paris February 2013. That afternoon it closed for renovation!! I KNOW!! This photo was the last thing done just before I broke down crying like a little bitch. Poor Jin, he had his hands full. It still makes me sad, thank goodness I have been back to Paris, in fact all going to plan I have just left it for London. From the Sydney Summer of my writing I have everything crossed that this time I will have been able to cross the threshold.

L’Instant de Guerlain EdP by Maurice Roucel for Guerlain 2003

December 27, 2013 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 12 Comments

Hello Frag Nerds,

Sometimes while swanning around the department store I go check out the frag counters even though we don’t get all the good stuff that the world gets. Sometimes I get a lovely surprise when we have the goods and I spritz away. Never have I ever even thought about spritzing todays fragrance, I don’t know why but it always gets overlooked. well, my buddy Birgit from Olfactoria’s Travels recently sent me a care package and inside was a 5ml boxed manufacturers sample of…

L’Instant de Guerlain by Maurice Roucel for Guerlain 2003

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, mandarin, red apple
Heart: Iris, magnolia, ylang ylang, jasmine
Base: Musk, honey, vanilla, benzoin, amber

So right out of the gate I get a sweet, resinous toffee that is sticky and sweet, all warm sugary deliciousness. Citrus and most of the flowers are bypassed in favour of a very edible candy/confectionary scent that is reminiscent of a thing we have in Australia called a Musk Stick. They have been one of my favourite lollies since childhood but Jin wont eat them because he thinks it’s like eating soap. There is definite soapy reference in L’Instant and it has a clean feel without all the usual connotations of blandness and the current overuse of laundry stylings in fragrance. Though they are not the same I am reminded of JPG Le Male a bit, L’Instant has that same hefty, dense, sweetness that is both insistent and moreish. A hint of baklava even, mmmmmmmm

Photo Stolen WikiMedia

Guerlain is so good at this stuff. Clearly the success of L’Instant became a beacon to celebuscenters everywhere. The style and warm vivacity that is so deliciously enjoyable here is reflected in many of the celeb offerings of the last 10 years. Guerlain does it better, of course. I’m surprised there is no almond note because I can smell some yummy toasted almonds too.

L’Instant is pretty, sweet and very easy wearing. The bottle is beautiful and I can understand why it’s a big hit for Guerlain. You could give this to someone 16 or 86 and they would both smell beautiful wearing it. Longevity on my skin is under 4 hours of fragrant and then another couple of hours of very soft base notes that really do give me a vanilla, amber, almond blur. Lovely.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

Further reading: I Scent You A Day
Beauty Encounter has $52/50ml
My Perfume Samples has EdP starting from $3/ml to $9/5ml

Do you ever get a pleasant surprise from something you’ve bypassed for years? Tell me, I love to read your stories too.
Portia xx

The Scent Of Music: Jingle Bells

December 22, 2013 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 34 Comments

Heya Blog and Fragrance lovers.

There are a crew of bloggers doing this fabulous theme at EXACTLY the same time. Scroll below the video to meet the rest. Everyone has been asked to pick a Christmas song or carol that resonates and perfume it. I think there will be some fun ones, and from all around the world.

For me there is a kind of madness associated with Christmas when we all listen to silly, often puerile, songs while wearing bakery/spicy/incense laden perfumes. This on top of the great crazy Christmas shopping, more food in one meal than many families eat in a month, seeing family with whom you may have little or nothing in common with and in Australia anyway, HEAT!!

Please enter our Vaara by Penhaligon’s Full Bottle GIVEAWAY<<<JUMP

Photo Stolen Wikimedia

The Scent Of Music: L’Heure Bleue by Guerlain

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lemon, neroli, aniseed, bergamot, coriander
Heart: Bulgarian rose, carnation, tuberose, violet, cloves, ylang, orchid, heliotrope, neroli
Base: Vanilla, Tonka bean, iris, musk, vetiver, sandalwood, benzoin

Tonight in the 30+ celcius heat I wore 2010 L’Heure Bleue EdP. This fragrance is made for heat. A fluffy blue powder puff of tra-la-laaaaaaa. A perfect fit for the early years of Barbra Streisand and her incredible voice, while she was still fun, camp, hungry and sensational. I don’t have a live video of her performing Jingle Bells but I have been miming to it EVERY CHRISTMAS since 1989. The song feels like a part of me and I never listen to it in between but around December you can be guaranteed that if I have to do a number then this will be it.

Photo Stolen ChristmasStockingPhotos

The Scent Of Music: Jingle Bells by Barbra Streisand

Natalie: Another Perfume Blog
Jingle Bells on Australian Perfume Junkies
Lulajze Jezuniu on Chemist in the Bottle
Winter Wonderland on All I Am a Redhead
O Come All Ye Faithful on Riktig Parfym
In the Bleak Midwinter on Olfactoria’s Travels
Carol of the Bells on Undina’s Looking Glass
Christmas Time is Here on ChickenFreak’s Obsessions
TBD on The Unseen Censer

Just as a little extra Christmas cheer I have added another incredible favourite carol done by another one of the voices that has played soundtrack in my life.

Oh Holy Night: Patti LaBelle

Most Reached For Fragrances 2013: Portia

December 21, 2013 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 44 Comments

Most Reached For Fragrances 2013: Portia

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Ambre Ceruleen by Huitieme Art Parfumes EdP

This was a Scent Bar purchase while in LA for the ScentSation Bus tour in May this year with Tom Pease. Ambre Ceruleen is a sweet amber as comfortable as an old pair of jeans that fit you perfectly and have softened into your shape. It has an excellent life length, 7+ hours on me, with good projection and sillage.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Amoureuse by Parfums DelRae EdP

Lily, jasmine, tuberose, honey and cardamom all together in a sensual, sweaty, slightly rank waft of gorgeous. Every time I wear Amoureuse it’s like a glamour assault on my senses and it gets loads of compliments too. I don’t understand why this terrific, well priced, beautifully blended range is not top of more perfumistas love lists.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Bellodgia by Caron EdT, EdP, Parfum, Oil

I am hoping to get to the Caron store in Paris in Jan/Feb. Does anyone know if they do bath products? The only thing that could make this crisp and wanton carnation better is to be up to my neck in bubbles of it in the bath. I love the Caron base, it sits beautifully on my skin radiating warmth and invitation, safety and feral attack. It’s so far from anything that you can buy in department stores nowadays that just for its differences alone it gathers compliments.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Coco by CHANEL EdT, EdP, Parfum

Coco is the naughty sensualist, the oriental blockbuster that can cut a swathe through a room. I love spritzing Coco and lying on the lounge playing Words With Friends (TubbyB9 if you want a game), huffing and cogitating simultaneously. It also gets a spritz for nights out, excellent dinner companion because by the time you have sat to eat it is a murmur playing a siren call style backbeat to everything else. Killer.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fancy Nights by Jessica Simpson EdP, Lotion

This el-cheapo celebuscent is one of my go-to perfumes. It is a milkier, dirtier, longer lasting Shalimar sister. Excellent bed scent that is used by a couple of my perfumista friends to send them to the land of nod. It is a wonderful body scent but also good for sheet and pillow fragrancing and considering how inexpensive Fancy Nights is there is never a question of saving it for best.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Liberte by Cacharel EdP

Yes, I know. Discontinued, cheap as chips, everyone slates it. Good. I will gather my discount stockpile and wear it alone. Liberte has the most fabulous sizzling citrus I’ve ever had the pleasure to wear. It’s bold and silly and festive. I reach for the crazy orange pillar at least once a week and enjoy the fizzy, fuzzy madness that is Liberte.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Lys Soleia (Aqua Allegoria) by Guerlain EdT

To remember spring or to enjoy the summer I think the most delightful Aqua Allegoria in the Guerlain line is Lys Soleia. The lily, Ylang, Citrus fruit and vanilla all collude in a cheerful sunshine bright burst of lovely. Wearable all year round and an excellent choice for gift giving, even a gift for yourself. Nowadays you can get Lys Soleia on the discounters for next to nothing too.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Olympic Amber by Olympic Orchids EdP, Parfum

Warm, dusty, dry resins and patchouli, the amber is gorgeously rich and right from the outset feels like a VERY expensive fragrance and gives me warm fuzzy feelings of love and safety. Not only do I regularly reach for it but I also gift it because it makes everyone smile.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Shalimar by Guerlain in EdC, EdT, EdP, Parfum:

There is something thrilling yet comforting about spritzing or dabbing Shalimar. It was the fragrance of my Mum’s clique, has been worn by many of my friends and every time I wear it I love it so much. That sweet swirl of citrus, vanilla, leather and a bouquet are TO DIE FOR every time, every incarnation and strength, with the same rush of memory and anticipation.

Photo Stolen Mona Di Orio

Vanille by Mona di Orio EdP

When I think go-to fragrance I like to smell good, want an interesting but ultimately wearable ride, love to have a few surprises for those rare days when I can take a leisurely amount of time to mentally document the progression and note parade but also need it to be spritz and go comfortable for the rest of my life. The boozy citrus, woods, vanilla and resins in Vanille don’t give me a typical vanilla ride but something softer, easier and ultimately more wearable on a daily basis fragrance.

Well, I’ve rambled on for far too long now it’s your turn, what did you reach for most in 2013?
Portia xx

Here are a bunch of other BEST LISTS: Persolaise :: The Candy Perfume Boy :: Eyeliner On A Cat :: Fragrant Moments :: PerfumeShrine :: The Fragrant Man :: I Smell Therefore I Am :: Smelly Blog :: Olfactoria’s Travels

Bee Bottle PORN! Guerlain 160 years

December 14, 2013 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 10 Comments

Hey Guerlain lovers,

If you are anythin g like me then Guerlain is one ofd the great mother ships of fragrance and one of the ultimate symbols of Guerlain is its Bee Bottle. Made for 160 years this year. The crew at Guerlain have released this video to celebrate.

Photo Stolen WikiMedia

Cheers Guerlain Bee Bottle. Happy Birthday
Portia xx

160th anniversary Bee Bottle – GUERLAIN

Guerlain, Guerlain, Guerlain Samples

November 20, 2013 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 13 Comments

Post by Eliza D

I’ve been in a bit of a rut fragrance-wise for a few months, then I got to go to The Perfume House in Portland and I was instantly lifted out of my snit. Though the two samples I brought home were not right for me, there was a fragrance on the sleeve of my sweater that had to be a Guerlain, since I spent a lot of time in that corner of the store, sniffing fragrance and making weird murmery noises that scared the other shoppers.

Guerlain, Guerlain, Guerlain Samples

So, I went to the Posh Peasant, and found out that I could get 5 x 1.5 ml spray samples of any Guerlain fragrance they carry for $26 US+shipping. and ordered Shalimar PI, L’Heure Bleue, Champs Elysee, Vol de Nuit and Chamade. They arrived in four days!

Vol de Nuit

hoto Stolen Fragrantica

First on was Vol de Nuit. Oh my gosh, how wondrous! The bergamot and light top notes gave way very quickly to that incredible powdery dry down anchored with vanilla and moss that is so familiar to me from the other two Guerlains that I have owned or tried: Samsara and Mitsouko (the latter of which instantly transports me to my mother’s bedroom in the 60s…she did not wear perfume, but her friends did, and when we had parties the impromptu coat room was a glorious treasure trove), but I was disappointed with its longevity.

Chamade

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Next day was Chamade. Oh my word! Lovely cripsness followed by flowers and then sandalwood. Could this be my new forever fragrance? Could I wear this to work and not feel as if I was pushing the limit of acceptance? Was it better suited for home, when I was alone with my loved one? What an amazing feat, and of course created in the era I consider to be my formative time.

Champs Elysees

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Monday was Champs Elysees, and of all the five, this was the most disappointing. No bones, just fluff, and too sweet. Yes roses, but grocery store roses, not boutique roses…I almost washed it off.

Shalimar Parfum Initial

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Then I tried Shalimar Parfum Initial. This was the one I almost did not order. I had read so much about how it was JUST a flanker, and what was Thierry Wasser thinking to mess with an old classic and how it was made for soccer moms and teenagers. I sprayed with trepidation. First came the citrusy top notes calling out while the rest of the perfume gathered in the wings. Then jasmine and iris and some rose, but a different rose. Yes, sweet, but not bubble gum headache sweet…more precious. Lovely, soft, modern, patchouli and vanilla. Incredible. I loved this from first sniff. Great sillage! Could it be the one?

L’Heure Bleue

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

But I still had one more to go: L’Heure Bleue. I chose this because it is a classic, and because of the line in the Bond Movie about it…

I sprayed it on after arriving home from work. Immediately I knew this was not the same as the others, but still somehow similar. Licorice topnotes warm and balmy from the start, it deepened as I wore it with neroli and tuberose taking main stage. I was swept away to a place where the air is thick with fragrance all the day long, this is an after the hot tub fragrance, a bundle up in fur in winter and dream of longer days fragrance.

I am so grateful to Guerlain for continuing the art of perfumery through the years. Perfumery is divine. I am blessed. And I am wearing Shalimar PI.

Eliza D

5 Scents That Touched Gabriella’s Soul

October 15, 2013 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 25 Comments

Post by Gabriella

Hello fragrant friends! Today’s post is inspired by something I saw recently on the Vampy Varnish makeup blog. The blogger had photographed and diarised her hair and makeup trends from an early age to the present. I thought it would be fun to present and discuss five perfumes from my past that are meaningful in some way and chronicle a bit of my perfumed history….

My Perfumed History

Five scents that have touched my soul

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

1. My first scent: Jontue by Revlon 1976

It’s 1984 and I am the tender age of nine. My family and I are in Hong Kong en route to England for my uncle’s wedding and for some reason, it’s decided that I am old enough to have my first fragrance. I remember the scene more than Jontue itself. It’s late at night and I am amazed that shops are still open, there’s the buzz and hum of the bright neon signs and the slightly salted smell of the humid night air. I’m feeling very grown up (despite my now cringeworthy sartorial choice of a orange tie-dyed jump suit to match my Mum’s one in blue). Jontue, with its powerful green and white floral elements felt exciting. Looking back, it did indeed set a trend as this remains my favourite genre.

FragranceNet has Jontue in its current formulation from $14/2.3oz EdC before discount

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

2. My first signature scent: Anais Anais by Roger Pellegrino, Robert Gonnon, Paul Leger and Raymond Chaillan for Cacharel 1978

Anais Anais was my signature for years and years. The scent of birthdays and Christmases past, often being accompanied by the beautiful matching soap and body cream. It remains a favourite to this very day, the bright green lily and hyacinth combination is irrevocably part of my identity.

Anais Anais is available at most department stores and online sellers.
Fragrance Shop has the EdT starting at $23/30ml before discount
Surrender To Chance starts at $3/ml

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

3. The occasion scent: Aromatics Elixir by Bernard Chant for Clinique 1971

My first real obsession was makeup, not perfume. My teenage years marked my first tentative foray and back then, Clinique was the brand of choice as it was seen as a safe option for young girls. The brand’s Raspberry Glace lipstick was my premiere purchase, only to be worn on weekends and most probably washed off with the Clinique 3-step skincare regime that was all the rage. Clinique of course, offered gifts with purchase which is how I discovered Aromatics Elixir. It was the scent associated with Christmas for me, as I would stock up at that time of year to get the gift. The woody aromatic chypre was so unlike anything I’d usually wear and so exciting and daring. When I found out that I was to be presented with a prize in my final year of high school, something I had waited five years for, I chose to wear this scent. Dabbed naughtily (against school rules) under my navy and white school uniform, it will forever be a scent of achievement and power for me.

Aromatics Elixir is available from most Clinique counters
Beauty Encounter has the parfum starting at $11/4ml
Surrender To Chance starts at $3/ml

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

4. The happy memory scent: Samsara by Jean-Paul Guerlain for Guerlain 1989

I was 17, I had finished school and we were spending our first Christmas away from home on a holiday in Hawaii. It was an exciting time both because the future was full of possibilities and Hawaii had more makeup and clothes and stuff to buy than I’d ever laid eyes on. By this time, Dior and Chanel and Guerlain were the brands of makeup I now chose to spend my hard earned savings on and a purchase of the latter in Hawaii was accompanied by a sample of Samsara. The beautiful combination of jasmine and sandalwood reminds me of the New Year’s Eve party at our hotel. Everyone was eating, drinking and dancing and having a great time, the air was twinkling with fairy lights and the smell of anticipation.

Samsara is available at most department stores.
FragranceNet has the EdT $36/50ml before coupon
Surrender to Chance has samples starting at $3/ml

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

5. The rabbit hole scent: Lys Mediterranee by Edouard Flechier for Frederic Malle 2000

I had started to dabble in a perfume hobby by the time the Frederic Malle range had launched in Sydney, but it was Lys Mediterranee that really pushed me over the edge. The green slightly salty, tropical lily was perfection on my skin and I knew I had found something stupendous and magical.

Lys Mediterranee is available at Mecca Cosmetica starting at $142/3 x 10ml
Surrender to Chance has samples starting at $6/ml

What did you think of my list? Did I name any favourites? What scents have a historical importance to you?

With much love till next time!
M x