Snake Oil by Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab (BPAL)

December 18, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 13 Comments

Post by Erica Golding

Greetings, my beautifully fragranced friends!

Those of you who know me a little may have noticed that I have a special place in my heart (and in my collection) for perfume oils. When it comes to iconic fragrances with a loyal cult following, no perfume oil comes close to the magnetic, addictive potion that is Snake Oil by Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab (BPAL).

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Vanilla, oriental notes

BPAL is mysteriously coy when describing Snake Oil, listing the official notes as: “A blend of exotic Indonesian oils sugared with vanilla.” This modest preview can never prepare you for the intensely sensual, spicy, powdery, deep character of this shameless temptress. The first impression can be challenging, as is often the case when a perfume is singularly unique and passionate.

The aroma is truly haunting, possessing those who become ensnared in the trail. I always struggle to describe the mystifying spices, hint of precious woods, swirl of thick amber vanilla, and the resinous depth. It elicits reactions from strangers, friends, family, and lovers alike – from the subtle extra attention to the unrestrained exclamation, “what are you wearing? You smell amazing!”

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

Snake Oil ages like fine wine, becoming smoother, deeper, richer, and more viscous as the years pass by. The powdery amber settles, the spices harmonize, the resinous incense gains density, and the vanilla thickens with an insatiable seductive power. Fans boast the year of their Snake Oil vial with swelling pride, with the earliest vintages (circa 2003 – 2004) being the most rare, cherished, and exquisitely aged to perfection. BPAL switched their perfume bottles from cobalt blue to amber glass in 2005, and also discontinued their 10ml bottle size soon after, so cobalt and 10ml Snake Oil bottles are particularly valuable. Good luck finding one – those who own these treasured ampoules aren’t likely to release their clutches!

Photo Stolen DailyMail

This perfume oil is incredibly attractive, anoint your skin and prepare for unexpected flirtation! I would recommend it to others primarily as an evening fragrance, but I don’t follow rules when it comes to conventions such as where and when. So, personally, I flaunt Snake Oil in full force whenever and wherever I damn well please!

Photo Stolen BPAL

Further reading: That Smell
Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab has $17.50/5ml

Have you tried Snake Oil? Do you have a favorite perfume oil, perhaps one from Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab?
I hope you have a lovely scented day,
Erica

Sunshine by Amouage 2014: Meeting Christopher Chong

December 16, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 18 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

Tea with Christopher Chong, Nick Smart and Portia

When Portia invited me to meet Christopher Chong of Amouage I was obviously there in a flash!! Libertine Parfumerie‘s Nick Smart and his team from Agency De Parfums had allocated us a 30 minute time slot to chat about Amouage and introduce a new fragrance.

We left 2 hours later!!!!

Starting out ceremoniously, we were served tea amongst beautiful flower arrangements and the new brightly packaged Midnight Flower candles and room sprays. With the 4 ambient fragrances – Hope, Smile, Love and Happy Christopher shares the positive memories of his dog Georgi, who sadly passed away. The scents contrast with the sophisticated Amouage back catalogue, yet hold resemblance amid the depth of emotions behind them. With 50% of the sales going to the guide dog foundation it has been a healing project for Christopher who much prefers nights in, in his home in London’s Battersea with his dogs rather than going out.

Christopher’s role as Creative Director of Amouage means he sets the story, mood, tone and suggests ingredients he wants included and then briefs a perfumer of his choice. He is not a nose, however has worked with top perfumers including Bernard Ellena, Alexandra Carlin, Emilie (Bevierre) Coppermann. Nathalie Feisthauer, Alexandra Carlin and Violaine Collas.

Christopher then told us about Sunshine, releasing in December in Australia exclusively

Sunshine by Amouage 2014

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Artemisia, black currant, almond
Heart: Osmanthus, jasmine, magnolia, vanilla
Base: Juniper, patchouli, papyrus, white tobacco

Packaged in yellow, gold and white and nestled in an eggshell blue and gold wooden box, Sunshine immediately screams of a new direction for Amouage, a more mainstream idea and Christopher Chong mocking all the brands that have been influenced by (or even copied) his innovations.

It’s creamy white goodness engulfs me…

Sunshine starts sweet as if an excited infant with mouth full of a fruit and marzipan-loaded wedding cake has breathed in my face in delight. It’s somehow juicy and powdery at the same time. I can also smell a bunch of balloons. I am thinking happy and celebratory thoughts while wearing this. Weddings, fairs, rollercoasters and jolly things like that. It’s bright, big white floral and gourmand for sure. But is it sunshine? The sun is definitely out, but I’d almost say its balmy late afternoon sunshine, not the scorching middle of the day sun we have here in Australia.

Osmanthus provides an enchanting and slightly exotic twist that somehow levels the swarm of sweetness engulfing me. It’s now as if the sunshine is surrounded by some thick deep and cosy cumulus clouds that we peer through olfactively. Osmanthus is a relative of lilac and has a similar kind of creamy powderyness to its scent. They do seem like cousins, smellwise, with Osmanthus being fruitier to me, somewhere between peachy mango and dried apricot in its heart. Osmanthus flowers can be creamy white right through to orange, but for perfume its the orange flowers that are used.

There is heavy waxy floral jasmine component evident throughout. Milky notes are waxy almond and nutty.

Sunshine’s slightly oriental tendancies and magical twists of Artemisia give it depth and keep it interesting. Its unisex for sure. Drydown seems to go forever (eight hours plus!) and at the end of the day my shirt still smells strongly, smoldering more and more…in fact getting quite sexy in contrast to its opening.

At the end of our time together Christopher signs our Amouage discovery box gifts and we leave him, exhausted, but giggling the whole ride down to planet earth via the lift!!

Ainslie Walker xxx

All the clear photos donated by Ainslie Walker, all the shit ones by Portia x

Shaal Nur by Etro 1997

December 15, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 8 Comments

Post by Tina G

Mid-December holds the final hurdle of the year, where everyone seems to be a little bit exhausted and holding in there just a few more weeks until the Christmas break. I’m the same. I’ve got three weeks of holiday coming up and summer is my favourite time of year, so I just can’t wait to play and chill and catch up with friends and family. December in Sydney has started out positively tropical. Bright sunny clear mornings, warm days, and massive thunderstorms rolling in around 4:00pm. So stepping out the door in the mornings I’ve been looking for something that is just simple, light and easy to wear in the heat and humidity. Three out of five days this week I’ve gravitated towards a new purchase from Etro – Shaal Nur.

Shaal Nur by Etro 1997

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Top: lemon, bergamot, grapefruit, mandarin, rosewood, coriander
Heart: thyme, tarragon, rosemary, karo karoundè, rose, petit grain
Base: patchouli, nutmeg, vetiver, cedarwood, opoponax, incense, musk

Etro was established in Italy, 1968 as a prêt-a-porter and haute couture textile company. The have men and women’s fashion, a home range, and fragrances and there is a boutique located in Mosman, Sydney (so the internet tells me).

Shaal-Nur is the Indian queen of the glowing light of dawn, promises abandonment and playfully ignites the senses, calming anxiety and easing stress. (ETRO)

Photo Stolen Flickr

Shaal Nur begins with a fresh cologne-like puff of citrus on opening, a citronella-lemon & grapefruit with a hint of watery mandarin and black pepper. This wooshes through in an invigorating rush, pulling up in its wake a fresh green petitgrain along with some herbal and floral notes. Silage is good and a few quick sprays on arms and chest has me smiling and ready to get my day started.

After about half an hour, this fragrance is all about patchouli and vetiver although there is a dusting of rose in the background. The patchouli is fresh cut and verdant, and there is open, aquatic vibe to the scent with an underlying spiciness. Over a period of about 4 hours a peppery note comes through changing the dry down, preventing it from being completely linear. At 8 hours, it is totally a skin scent but is still there with a kitchenesque vanilla and subtle amber plumping up the residual green notes.

Photo Stolen Pixabay

Further reading: Now Smell This and Bois de Jasmin
First In Fragrance has €74/50ml and samples

A three-word summary of Shaal Nur: Uncomplicated, light, refreshing. An easy-wear summer scent and one I’m very glad I picked up.

Have you tried the Etro range of fragrances? Please let me know your thoughts on which of theirs I should try next!

Tina G xx

Sensual Orchid by Jerome Epinette for LM Parfums 2012

December 14, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 10 Comments

Howdy Crew,

Fragrantica says: LM Parfums is a French niche line of scented candles and fragrances… founded by Laurent Mazzoni. Most of the blogs I have read about this crew have been about their most expensive offering Hard Leather, and I do have a sample of it around here somewhere but the one that I am really interested in has very little written about it so far….

Sensual Orchid by Jerome Epinette for LM Parfums 2012

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Mandarin orange, almond, neroli
Heart: Orchid, jasmine sambac, ylang-ylang, peony, heliotrope
Base: Vanilla, musk, woody notes, cedar, labdanum, benzoin

The first thing that intrigued me about Sensual Orchid was the perfumer, Jerome Epinette has been the nose behind a bunch of blockbuster mainstream niche offerings: four of the Atelier Colognes, Bel d’Afrique and La Tulipe (coincidentally one of my BFF Kath’s fragrances) for Byredo, three of the LuckyScent Decennial quartet and a bunch of others I’m not familiar with. It’s quite a selection.

Photo Stolen WikiCommons

Almond and orange, like a cake, like a FRIAND!! MMMMMMM. Foody and sweet but still holding onto a very sensual bouquet. GAWD!!! I love it. What a wonderful opening that lasts for a good 15+ minutes before finally giving in to the heart. The flowers are sweet and sexy, a bit ripe and lovely banana-skin tones. I am surprised there is no coconut note because I get something very like it, a creaminess and the back of my throat has the same slight ache it gets when I eat dessicated coconut.

The dry down is soft, creamy woods. An oriental amber wash that is very nice. This lasts for hours and has me feeling very sexy and frisky. A real come-hither scent that would be knockout as a date night frag or a movies with intended partner. The elegant clean thrummmm of Sensual Orchid could definitely push someone over the edge from like to lust.

Photo Stolen DeviantART

From Osswald NYC: 20% perfume concentration “Like a feminine model on the catwalk, Sensual Orchid captivates your senses with its incredible aromas. The second essence of perfume will take you to the front of the stage. The carnal pleasures evoked by this sumptuous arrangement of natural sophisticated fragrances. A first subtle scent of citrus fruit and almond leads you into a refined heart of orchid, jasmine sambac, Lysilang, peony and heliotrope then leaves a voluptuous final touch made of vanilla, musk, blonde wood, white cedar wood, labdanum and benzoin.”

Further reading: Scented Hound and CaFleureBon
Jovoy Paris has €195/100ml
Osswald NYC has $225/100ml (Hey Hey Josie & Clement!!)

Have you tested any of the LM Parfums fragrances? Do you like their aesthetic?
Portia xxxx

Iris Tubereuse by Creed 2014 + Chicago Photo Essay

December 13, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 16 Comments

Hey Hey APJ,

I’m not sure if you followed our adventures as we traveled across the USA in a diagonal from LA to NYC. Stop number 3 was in Chicago, Illinois. We had a few things on the agenda that needed doing. Number ONE was celebrating Anita’s (Musette from Perfume Posse) birthday. Which we did in high style, morning at the Chicago Art Gallery, Lunch in the Walnut Room at the old Marshall Fields (now Macy’s) and dinner at Hard Rock cafe (idea had by a Chicago native). We also had a meetup of the perfumista crew that started at Barney’s went to Neiman Marcus and ended in cocktails and Chicago deep dish pizza. We met some wonderful people, had a complete blast and fell head over heels in love with Chicago.

I also fell madly in love with two fragrances, the first of which is ..

Iris Tubereuse by Creed 2014

Photo Stolen CreedUSA

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Galbanum, orange, violet leaf
Heart: Tuberose, lily-of-the-valley, lily
Base: Musk, orange blossom, vanilla

What I didn’t expect on my travels was to find a new Creed that I want so desperately in my collection.

The opening of Iris Tubereuse is a big fat punch in the nose of galbanum, there is other stuff but my skin boosts the galbanum beautifully. Then the green is peeled back to let the most glorious white florals emerge, or bloom really. Green notes and white flowers. You had me at hello. This is heady and deliriously big for about 20 minutes, reminding me of the 1980s: big hair, big shoulder pads, bold colours, cinched waists and spike heels (and that was the men!!).

After that initial burst of WHOA enormous Iris Tubereuse settles into a warm, lush, tropical evening stroll. A little breathy, slightly sweaty and humid. Very little iris (or violet leaf) to be smelled on my skin, but that could be me missing it completely. The vanilla/musks in dry down are pleasant and totally unchallenging, this is the least interesting part of iris tubereuse yet I can see that being part of its attraction to the mainstream buyers.

The very handsome young man at the David Jones Libertine counter told me it was his best seller for young women buying their own and all men buying gifts. Interesting. I would happily rock this, and I love the bottle.

My sample came from Libertine Parfumerie who have live sites in both David Jones and Myer, Sydney City Stores.
Libertine Parfumerie has AUD$385/100ml with FREE SHIPPING in Australia (Christmas Delivery cut off December 22)
Creed in the US has US$300/100ml
Surrender To Chance have samples starting at $5/.5ml

Portia xxx

Chicago 2014 Photo Essay

Kim, Jin, Kath, Musette & I at some cool live music bar. Great food & service, can’t remember the name damnit! (Shaw’s Blue Crab Lounge)

At the Neiman Marcus Creed counter. I have no idea what happened to my Barneys photos

My new boyfriend. Looks after the Patou fragrances but I can’t remember his name. Let’s just call him Mr Turbo (Richard Gonzalez)

Julie R and I in the cool of the evening.

DRINKS!!!

Deep dish Pizza.

The crew at the end of the day. we’d lost quite a few along the way. These are the stayers.

My favourite American artist, Georgia O’Keefe. Here are my three favourites from the Chicago gallery of her work.

You have no idea how enormous this piece is, you can still feel reverberations of this look above the clouds from a plane in modern works.

Musette’s BIRTHDAY lunch at the Walnut Room. The extra lady told us there would be a very short wait. We got to the line and the other people said over 40 minutes. We went and chewed her out about that and were seated immediately due to ir being a Very Special Birthday. Thank You Macy’s. Food was really yummy too.

Cookie Queen’s GIVEAWAY WINNERS!

December 13, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 4 Comments

Heya Crew,

WOW!! Incredible response.

Thank you so much Val for sharing your amazing stash.

Portia xx

Cookie Queen’s GIVEAWAY WINNERS!

WHAT COULD YOU WIN?

This week we will have 2 Winners who will each get a selection of samples (NO you don’t get to choose)

Samples included are:
Chanel Exclusifs
Phaedon
Amouage
Mona di Orio
Nobile 1942
Parfum d’Empire Ambre Russe
Rania J Ambre Loup
Roger Dove (much as it pains me to give these away)
Nu_bes
Ramon Monegals

P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DID YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Tell us your favourite fragrant find of 2014

Extra Chance?
Tweet: @OzPerfumeJunkie http://wp.me/p3PURw-3r6 Cookie Queen Christmas GIVEAWAY #Perfume #Giveaway

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Friday 12 December 2014 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen from Val’s dead armadillo

Photo Stolen markmontanoblogs

THINKING MAGPIE

MHEK

The winners will have till Monday 15th December 2014 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Apple Brandy by Sidonie Lancesseur for by Kilian 2013

December 11, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 18 Comments

Post by Poodle

Recently I received a sample of Apple Brandy from a perfume pal who lived in NYC. This is the perfume that is exclusive to the New York By Kilian boutique. I find the exclusivity of certain scents frustrating for obvious reasons but since it showed up on my doorstep I gave it a try.

Apple Brandy by Sidonie Lancesseur for by Kilian 2013

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Featured accords:
Apple, rum and plum accord, oak, labdanum, ambroxan, cedar, vanilla

At first sniff, Apple Brandy is full of apples and boozy amber fruit. The apples seem almost candied but the sweetness quickly moves from candied to caramel. It’s vanilla caramel wrapped around a juicy red apple. It’s not quite what I’d call brandy just yet but more like mulled wine from the plum note which also keeps the apples from smelling too fresh and crisp. There is a smokiness and a touch of amber that also prevent the sugar from taking over. The oak and cedar are noticeable even early on in the perfumes development and give it a rich, warm feeling. Imagine when you take a sip of a beautiful amber hued brandy and you can feel it warming you from the inside out. There seems to be a tiny bit of spice, maybe a touch of nutmeg. Apple Brandy has the makings of a great cold weather perfume. The scent seems to walk that fine line between a scent I want to smell like and a scent I want my home to smell like. (It would make a great scented candle.)

Photo Stolen Pixabay

As the fragrance develops the changes are slow and subtle. I wouldn’t call it completely linear but if you’re looking for a roller coaster ride of notes rising and falling you won’t find it here. The apples and fruit gradually slide away and the woods take on a tobacco like feeling at times. This is where it reminds me of brandy, when the oak-y woods blend with the fruit. The vanilla starts to become more noticeable but the caramel and candy that were present in the top notes have faded considerably.

Photo Stolen Pixabay
Photo has nothing to do with the scent I did think it too gorgeous to pass by though

I had to dab Apple Brandy on from a sample and got reasonably good projection. I was catching whiffs of caramel apples and liquored sweetness most of the morning. By early afternoon my skin was still scented softly with a wonderful woody vanilla. I’ve seen reviews say that this perfume was very boozy but my skin didn’t bring out that part of the perfume I guess. I don’t think I would have to worry that someone would think I’d been drinking.

Photo Stolen WikiCommons

Further reading: Now Smell This and Ca Fleure Bon
by Killian has €150/50ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $7/.5ml

Overall I do like this perfume but can’t say it’s interesting enough to justify the price. I’d wear it if I had it but I won’t be splurging on a bottle anytime soon.
Have you tried it? Did you like it? Do you like exclusive perfumes?

Until next time…
Poodle

Noir de Noir by Tom Ford 2007

December 10, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 9 Comments

Post by Trésor

Those who know me well know that I’m a bit of a day dreamer, spending many an hour within my tremendously ornamented flights of fancy. Out of all these splendid dream sequences there is one which I am particularly fond of and replay time and time again. I am sitting in the Hemingway Bar at the Hôtel Ritz in Paris, it’s just past the witching hour and I am returning from an event somewhere near Place Vendôme that’s run a bit late. The room is dimly lit, the diaphanous golden aura refracting through the crystals on my Chanel Haute Couture gown as I sip my favourite cocktail, a French 75.

A man sits next me, ruggedly handsome with the kindest eyes of piercing sapphire and asks for my name. When I go to respond I am beguiled by exqusite vapours rising from his chest, a hypnotic cirrus of inky petals against warm skin. It takes me a moment to collect myself and then I realize that this is something I’ve smelled before, a familiarity so unequivocally beautiful and close to my heart. He is wearing Noir de Noir.

Noir de Noir by Tom Ford 2007

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Agarwood (oud), patchouli, tuber (truffles), saffron, vanilla, rose, oakmoss

The genesis of this potion is through an unimaginably beautiful sequence of tarry black rose petals so rich in their nocturnal hue that they capture all light that dares to touch their obsidian velvet alongside an earthy and brilliantly sumptuous note of black truffle. The petals of the rose are so rich with their precious essence that they appear to glisten in the darkness with their elixir collecting as crepescule dewdrops as the truffle adorns them with just a whisper of soil and musk. As the composition begins to gain some levity you are received by a luxuriant dark chocolate and what I can only describe as a romanticised vision of red wine, all of the tannins removed. This marriage can border on confectionery but only in oscillating bursts, never cloying or distracting from the inky and atmospheric soul of this wicked brew. The grounding element for all of these, on my skin, is the aromatic copper flash of saffron which lends warmth and a particular radiance that keeps this from being one big heap of base notes.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

As time progresses something so intoxicatingly vanillic begins to emerge. It’s not the edible vanilla of a sweet and delicate madeleine but something a shade sinister and of the Earth. Though this fragrances toys with the illusion of innocence it keeps its claws firmly planted within the realm of splendid seduction. As Noir de Noir begins its final descent you are greeted with a pulchritudinous menagerie of that same black truffle atop a captivating patchouli that’s been dusted by what, to my nose, smells of vintage cosmetic powder you would find in the handbag of a Hollywood starlet from a bygone era. It is within this magnetic embrace that Noir de Noir finally fades into the skin and you are left with but a sweet memory of the time you’d spent together.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

Noir de Noir lasts about 8-10 hours on my skin but if I am feeling trigger happy I can push it up to around 12. The sillage is quite considerable, this fragrance is exceptionally dense and rather opulent so do expect other’s to be aware of its presence. You can however dab it as you would an extrait de parfum for a more controlled and subdued application.

Further reading: Perfume Posse and Fragrant Man
LuckyScent has $215/50ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/ml

If you have a thing for rose as I do I urge you to give this gem a go, I can almost guarantee you won’t regret that you did.

Have you tried Noir de Noir? Have you a favored Tom Ford?
Trésor xx

Cookie Queen's Caring Christmas!

December 9, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 56 Comments

Post by Val the Cookie Queen

Cookie Queen’s Fragrant Year 2014

The year started with a visit from Portia Turbo-Gear and Michael dropping by and staying for a few days. We had a blast and they got to come along on the Salzburg Cookie Run.
They headed off for a week´s travel around Europe and we got to meet up again in London, for the now near legendary Blogger´s Meet at the fabulous Bloom Perfumery in London´s
Spitalfields area.

Meeting so many bloggers in the flesh was nothing short of amazing.

Tara of Olfactoria´s Travels and Vanessa of Bonkers About Perfume and I have since become proper friends and I flew back to the UK in July to meet up with them again. This time there was only the three of us which which was a little less hectic than the Bloom Party and we got to know each other better. I adore them.

I went to Milan for the Esxence, The Scent of Excellence Fragrance Fair in Spring and to the Pitti Fragranze in Florence in autumn. These events are within driving distance of my home, which is consolation for having to spend a large part of my life speaking German.

I took regular trips to Vienna to meet up with Birgit and Sandra from Olfactoria´s Travels. Intimate fragrant breakfasts together.

So dear readers, a you might imagine I have got quite a stash of samples, and the truth is I have more than enough and would like to give some away.
Living in the heart of Europe allows quick access to many of the new releases and I hope that someone, one of you, can get to sample something that you find difficult to get hold of.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

My favourite perfumes this year? The three Rozys from Vero Profumo. Now there´s a surprise..

January will mark two years since meeting Portia, who has become such an integral part of my life. Nearly two years as Cookie Queen. What have I learnt? That when pushed,
people will swop most anything for cookies!

Have a peaceful Christmas season. Take some time out to smell the coffee and be thankful.

Mistletoe Bussis
CQ

Cookie Queen’s Caring Christmas GIVEAWAY!

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 2 Winners who will each get a selection of samples (NO you don’t get to choose)

P&H Anywhere in the world