Rosarium Blends Dom by Catamara Rosarium

December 22, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 56 Comments

Post by Azar

Hello APJ,

We all know that perfume evokes memories, changes moods and perspectives, makes us feel beautiful and desirable, serves the purposes of seduction, warms our winters, cools our summers and transports us to lands near and far away. Some fragrances also seem to increase our self-confidence and amplify our power. I wear my “power scents” for the same reasons that some people wear their “power suits”. I have an “armory” (so to speak) of bottles that provide much needed support (power shots) for a variety of occasions and purposes. Today’s review is not about one of those but about a new fragrance, Dom by Catamara Rosarium. Here is a description abstracted and condensed from the Rosarium Blends website:

“Dom – A charm for establishing your sexual dominion. -To lure that which you desire the most. Wear to invoke and manifest your deepest, darkest desires in the flesh. This perfume is for domination in all manner of ways and can be worked with lots of different intentions: [To dominate] a problem in your life, perhaps to dominate your boss, or a coworker, maybe to dominate a spirit… The perfume can also be used to repair damage…giving renewed confidence. The perfume itself is the base for many forms of magic… The only limitations are the ones we create ourselves.”

Rosarium Blends Dom by Catamara Rosarium

The Perfume Power Suit

Photo Stolen Rosarium Blends

Rosarium Blends lists these featured accords in one line:
Vanilla, Smokey Vetiver, Neroli, Lemon, Patchouli, Myrrh, Mugwort, Black Storax

As far as I am concerned domination (whatever that means) is only a very small part of personal power. Nevertheless, I find it intriguing that any scent can have these magical effects. This summer I received a small sample of Dom and subsequently purchased a 9.8 ml bottle, which is fast disappearing.

Photo Stolen LibGuides

My first impression of Dom is that of smoke, vetiver and vanilla laced with citrus blossoms and mugwort (Artemisia vulgaris). This mugwort is not at all dry. The vanilla, the sweet black storax (styrax) and the rich, earthy, slightly damp and spicy myrrh amplify the natural resinous qualities of the mugwort (AKA European artemisia). As the fragrance develops it becomes an almost gourmand confection of vanilla, lemon and artemisia (a gothic lemon bar!). After two or three hours this strange, dark treat dries down and finishes with more vanilla and incense. Dom is actually quite tenacious for a natural perfume. Even after 24 hours a little bit still lingers on my skin. Also, the sillage changes with body temperature. The hotter I am the more this fragrance projects, even after several hours of wear.

Photo Stolen WikiCommons

I love wearing Dom but I can’t really say that it fills me with a sense of power. I do find that people are drawn to me when I wear it and that problems and misunderstandings just seem to melt away or are resolved with gracious good humor. The single issue I have with this perfume is that whenever I wear it I tend to lose focus. I find that I am drawn to myself, fixated on the scent, continually sniffing my wrists, completely under the spell of the smell.

Rosarium Blends has $15/4ml spray or $30/9.8ml splash

Azar xx

Photo stolen lavanyasrecipes

Perfume Power Suit GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 2 Winners who will each get a sample each of these 6 fragrances:
Rosarium Blends Dom
Vintage Karl Lagerfeld’s KL (carded)
Vintage Lucien Lelong Sirocco
Olympic Orchids Olympic Amber
Annick Goutal Grand Amour (carded)
Rasasi Amber Ood CPO
P&H to the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone in the world who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Leave a comment about YOUR power perfumes, which scents do you wear to boost your confidence or are there perfumes that make you feel invincible?

Extra Chance?
Tweet: @OzPerfumeJunkie http://wp.me/p3PURw-3tF #Perfume #Giveaway @AnnickGoutal_FR @EllenCovey1 @KarlLagerfeld @RosariumBlends

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Thursday 25th December 2014 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by pulling names from a sunhat (maybe)
The winners will have till Sunday 28th December 2014 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Breathe: Afternoon Of A Faun: Etat Libre d’Orange

December 21, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 22 Comments

Sometimes APJ,

You can merely tread water and breathe, stand still, look around you for a moment and breathe. Three deep breaths, in through your nose and out through your mouth. It’s interesting how this small thing can put a little perspective on the world you inhabit. It gives you time to remember that no matter how bad your predicament, others are much worse off. It also gives you a moment to say thank You for something, anything, the one thing good you may be able to recall.

Tonight I am wearing

Afternoon Of A Faun by Ralf Schwieger for Etat Libre d’Orange 2012

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Bergamot, pepper, cinnamon, incense, immortelle, orris root, myrrh, leather, benzoin, rose, jasmine, oakmoss

I like to spritz like crazy and just sit somewhere quiet and breathe in the green peppery leather that is both warm and cool on my skin and works perfectly in winter and summer, giving almost entirely different rides in disparate temperatures.

Today it’s been a fizzy green citrus floral that burned down to a slightly sweaty leather/woods/incense feel after wearing it to work. Now I’m home and changed I enjoyed the ride so much I am doing it again.

Double spritz on chest and Breathe

Breathe

Aaaaaaah. Heaven.

I have been a super bitch this week. It’s the end of a completely fabulous year and I am tired, we are all cramped in this apartment, there is still masses of unpacking undone, Christmas is upon us and to be honest, I am a cranky ole bitch. It’s been a don’t even look at me the wrong way this week because I will gut you with a look and feed your entrails to the dogs with my words. Jin came and had a quiet word to me tonight about it and he is right.

Photo Stolen Pixabay

breathe

verb: breathe; 3rd person present: breathes; past tense: breathed; past participle: breathed; gerund or present participle: breathing

take air into the lungs and then expel it, especially as a regular physiological process.

“she was breathing deeply”
synonyms: inhale and exhale, respire, draw breath, puff, pant, blow, gasp, wheeze

Photo Stolen Flickr

Further reading: Chemist In A Bottle and The Non-Blonde
LuckyScent has $149/100ml
Etat Libre d’Orange has €110/100ml (Delivers to the world)
Surrender To Chance starts at $4.50/ml

What do you do when the world overwhelms you?

I could do with some hints……
Portia xxxx

I have written about Afternoon Of A Faun before and it was 22 December 2013!! How freaky is that?

Candles by Peppermint Grove Australia 2014

December 21, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 8 Comments

Hi Crew,

I happened to wander into one of my favourite Sydney fragrance and beauty stores SWS Spring with Jin and a couple of our mates after dinner, as always when greeted by Moody the proprietor I asked, “What’s New Moody?”

A brand new Aussie candlemaker has emerged in December 2014?? Brand new, need to see and sniff? OK

Candles by Peppermint Grove Australia 2014

The Peppermint Grove Candles come in two sizes $17/60 gram and $40/350 gram with a very pretty bow on the front of ribbed glass reusable vessels, so girly. They are not on the website yet but you can call and order and they will send them out. GREAT idea for last minute Christmas Shopping. So reasonably priced and they come in beautiful boxes and have a metal cover or base.

Peppermint Grove Australia Candle Scents

Black Orchid and Ginger

Burnt Fig & Pear (Interesting and fun)

Freesia & Berries

Gardenia

Lemon, Basil & Mandarin

Lemongrass & Lime (If you like the way spas often smell, you’ll love this. Clean and natural smelling)

Oceania (My personal favourite, you can smell the salty sea breeze)

Patchouli & Bergamot

Vanilla Caramel

Wild Jasmine & Mint (Very nicely done on a vanilla base, I would burn this in my home)

Photo Stolen SWS Spring

Phillip & Graham, our dinner partners that night and long term mates, with Jin

Site:
SWS Spring

Address:
SWS SPRING
48 Dixon St,
Haymarket Chinatown
Sydney NSW 2000

Telephone:
+61 2 9212 7356

Ask for Moody, he’s the sweetest ever,

Portia xx

Dries Van Noten by Bruno Jovanovic for Frederic Malle 2013

December 20, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 14 Comments

Hiya Wafty Wanderers,

Here’s my point of view. It is merely supposition and has no direct basis in fact or information received. If Estee Lauder has bought Frederic Malle then things are going to change. There is a little twinkle in my brain saying Malle would rather sell his company than change the formulas to IFRA comply. Estee Lauder on the other hand will go through and do the best possible reform they can at the best price, get IFRA approval and take it to a whole new mainstream level. I repeat, this is all supposition….

In other news I think Dries van Noten would be a perfect Christmas scent, modern and old fashioned come together beautifully here. It may have pushed Azuree out of the way this year….

Dries Van Noten par Frederic Malle 2013

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Sandalwood, guaiac wood, tonka bean, vanilla, saffron, jasmine, musk, bergamot, lemon, nutmeg, cloves, patchouli, woody notes and peru balsam

Last year when I tried Dries van Noten I was instantly in love, then I did not buy a bottle because other more pressing things took over my head and up till now it had not happened. So while I was in Chicago, filled with the fear of reformulation I decided to plunge on the 50ml bottle.

Here’s what I wrote in my last review, I think it sums up Dries van Noten perfectly:

…Warm marshmallow sweet and slightly spicy vanilla open(ing) that smells so familiar, like someone I love is nearby, even though I’m sure that I’ve not smelled this mix before. Every time I wear Dries Van Noten it has instantly calmed and unruffled me….

Each previous time I have worn Dries Van Noten for the purpose of reviewing it has grabbed my head and asked me to just sit and enjoy its beauty. The whole fragrance feels extremely uncluttered, though it is dense. It goes through a milky, nutmeg stage that reads egg flip to me. An egg flip was dinner sometimes when we were young and made as a great treat for us kids, whole egg, nutmeg, vanilla, ice cream and milk. It was huge and delicious. Nowadays when I (remember) how strict Mum’s budget was I think that maybe she was eeking out her ration by giving us a liquid dinner out of, at that time, extremely cheap materials. I’ll never know now but my sister Jodie and I would feel so great on an egg flip night.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

Simple, warm, comfortable and yummy. Dries van Noten is the most deliciously wearable oriental fragrance. Simple yet complex and it moves me in unexpected ways. It’s like a cocoon of scent that I can curl up in, feel safe and peaceful and remember simple times. Also 100% wearable outside the front door and nobody will be skunked or outraged. If you are after boundary pushing, freaky, “can’t believe they put this shit in a bottle” then move along, you will hate Dries van Noten. If, on the other hand you are all about smelling fantastic then give it a whirl.

Photo Stolen Flickr

Further reading GrainDeMusc and Patty at PerfumePosse
Frederic Malle starts at $125/3 x 10ml (I think this is IDEAL for splitting)
SurrenderToChance starts at $6/ml

Have you tried dries van Noten? Did it send you or bore you to death?
Portia xx

What were your most reached for fragrances in 2014?

December 19, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 31 Comments

Hey Hey Fumies!!

The other night I was reading Perfume Shrine and they had this question. I found it so interesting what everyone had worn. We talk a LOT about the newest, freakiest, skankiest and get really hardcore on the blogs every year but to see what everyone really wears, in real life, is great.

So I’d like to put it to you APJ.

What were your most reached for fragrances in 2014?

My first answer is what I put up on Perfume Shrine but that was written off the top of my head and I have been thinking hard about the answer. What I will do is put up my previous answer and the more realistic one…

Hey There,
I LOVE these questions. Would you be terribly offended if I asked the same question at APJ?
Here are my most reached for..
Shalimar by Guerlain
Fleur de Male by Gaultier
Coco by CHANEL
Mohur by Neela Vermeire
Liberte by Cacharel
Portia xx

Perfumeshrine said…
Portia,
you’re very welcome to repeat this on Australian Perfume Junkies! Thanks for adding your contribution here. And so please tweet me the link when you’re done so I can RT 🙂

After consideration answer:
Shalimar by Guerlain
Amoureuse by Parfums DelRae
Ombre Mercure by Terry de Gunzburg
Mohur by Neela Vermeire
Liberte by Cacharel

I did wear Fleur de Male and Coco quite a bit but Amoureuse and Ombre Mercure were really easy, elegant and unusual things to wear for work, so I would often grab them through the whole year.

Now it’s your turn. What were your most reached for fragrances in 2014?

Portia xx

Snake Oil by Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab (BPAL)

December 18, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 13 Comments

Post by Erica Golding

Greetings, my beautifully fragranced friends!

Those of you who know me a little may have noticed that I have a special place in my heart (and in my collection) for perfume oils. When it comes to iconic fragrances with a loyal cult following, no perfume oil comes close to the magnetic, addictive potion that is Snake Oil by Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab (BPAL).

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Vanilla, oriental notes

BPAL is mysteriously coy when describing Snake Oil, listing the official notes as: “A blend of exotic Indonesian oils sugared with vanilla.” This modest preview can never prepare you for the intensely sensual, spicy, powdery, deep character of this shameless temptress. The first impression can be challenging, as is often the case when a perfume is singularly unique and passionate.

The aroma is truly haunting, possessing those who become ensnared in the trail. I always struggle to describe the mystifying spices, hint of precious woods, swirl of thick amber vanilla, and the resinous depth. It elicits reactions from strangers, friends, family, and lovers alike – from the subtle extra attention to the unrestrained exclamation, “what are you wearing? You smell amazing!”

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

Snake Oil ages like fine wine, becoming smoother, deeper, richer, and more viscous as the years pass by. The powdery amber settles, the spices harmonize, the resinous incense gains density, and the vanilla thickens with an insatiable seductive power. Fans boast the year of their Snake Oil vial with swelling pride, with the earliest vintages (circa 2003 – 2004) being the most rare, cherished, and exquisitely aged to perfection. BPAL switched their perfume bottles from cobalt blue to amber glass in 2005, and also discontinued their 10ml bottle size soon after, so cobalt and 10ml Snake Oil bottles are particularly valuable. Good luck finding one – those who own these treasured ampoules aren’t likely to release their clutches!

Photo Stolen DailyMail

This perfume oil is incredibly attractive, anoint your skin and prepare for unexpected flirtation! I would recommend it to others primarily as an evening fragrance, but I don’t follow rules when it comes to conventions such as where and when. So, personally, I flaunt Snake Oil in full force whenever and wherever I damn well please!

Photo Stolen BPAL

Further reading: That Smell
Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab has $17.50/5ml

Have you tried Snake Oil? Do you have a favorite perfume oil, perhaps one from Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab?
I hope you have a lovely scented day,
Erica

Jardins de Bagatelle by Jean Paul Guerlain 1983

December 17, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 17 Comments

Post by ElizaD

I keep nudging the needle.

In my last post I mentioned that I would soon be making a trip to the Perfume House in Portland, Ore., and had been preparing for that trip by wearing as little scent as possible to prime my nose for the journey that is the Perfume House.

Not long afterwards, we did go to the Perfume House as part of my birthday celebration. My husband came with me, which in itself was a blast. I got to introduce him to this amazing collection, and to hear first hand what he thought of different scents. Oddly enough, everything smelled like food to him: bananas, watermelon, chocolate. It was a hoot! But he was very brave and that made it all the more special.

I went with the hope of finding a new Serge Lutens, and did sample a few including L’Orpheline, a small vial of which came home with me. I wandered in and out of the Amouage room— yes folks, a room dedicated to L’Artisan Perfumers and Amouage—but found nothing there that called.

Jardins de Bagatelle by Jean Paul Guerlain 1983

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Jasmine, violet, aldehydes, lemon, bergamot
Heart: Gardenia, rose, orange blossom, tuberose, magnolia, ylang-ylang, orchid, lily-of-the-valley, narcissus
Base: Tuberose, cedar, vetiver, patchouli, musk, neroli

The other sample I asked for was Jardins de Bagetelle, which was a total surprise, because I am not a big flower person. But as I used a little of my sample everyday, I could not get over how incredible this perfume is.

As I picked up the phone and called Tracy to order a full bottle, the bee bottle no less, which sorry to say will not get tucked away in a cupboard as it should, but will grace my vanity until every drop is gone, I thought to myself “I have nudged the needle.” I have finally admitted that I love big, loud, robust, beautiful, perfumes. I have realized that even though I grew up in the era where children were seen and not heard, the women around me smelled anything but quiet, and I have become one of those women. I may not coif my hair and adorn myself with jewels, but I know how to wear perfume.

Photo Stolen InStyle

Guerlain’s website describes Jardins as a “joyous, luminous, and captivating flora, an airy and luminous essence, a sparkling fragrance. The heart is a real bouquet of white flowers (neroli, jasmine and gardenia) celebrating joie de vivre over a base of poisonous tuberose underscored with woody notes.”

When I first spray Jardins, I smell violets and bergamot, sweet and juicy. It is not long until the tuberose takes center stage, accompanied by rose and gardenia, and it lasts for a very long time until that wonderful Guerlinade takes over. What I love is that this perfume that could be all tuberose, raucous and warm, softens into something so familiar that lasts almost all day.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

I am going to be wearing this for weeks to come. I know that I will have to trust my innate ability to not go beyond what is acceptable when spraying, but that is part of the fun: seeing whether I can wear such a big perfume as a day-to-day scent.

Further reading: Perfume Shrine and Monsieur Guerlain
FragranceNet has $120/100ml before coupon
My Perfume samples starts at $2.50/ml up to $7.50/5ml

And I? I will keep nudging that needle.

What about you? Have you tried Jardins de Bagatelle?
ElizaD xx

Sunshine by Amouage 2014: Meeting Christopher Chong

December 16, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 18 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

Tea with Christopher Chong, Nick Smart and Portia

When Portia invited me to meet Christopher Chong of Amouage I was obviously there in a flash!! Libertine Parfumerie‘s Nick Smart and his team from Agency De Parfums had allocated us a 30 minute time slot to chat about Amouage and introduce a new fragrance.

We left 2 hours later!!!!

Starting out ceremoniously, we were served tea amongst beautiful flower arrangements and the new brightly packaged Midnight Flower candles and room sprays. With the 4 ambient fragrances – Hope, Smile, Love and Happy Christopher shares the positive memories of his dog Georgi, who sadly passed away. The scents contrast with the sophisticated Amouage back catalogue, yet hold resemblance amid the depth of emotions behind them. With 50% of the sales going to the guide dog foundation it has been a healing project for Christopher who much prefers nights in, in his home in London’s Battersea with his dogs rather than going out.

Christopher’s role as Creative Director of Amouage means he sets the story, mood, tone and suggests ingredients he wants included and then briefs a perfumer of his choice. He is not a nose, however has worked with top perfumers including Bernard Ellena, Alexandra Carlin, Emilie (Bevierre) Coppermann. Nathalie Feisthauer, Alexandra Carlin and Violaine Collas.

Christopher then told us about Sunshine, releasing in December in Australia exclusively

Sunshine by Amouage 2014

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Artemisia, black currant, almond
Heart: Osmanthus, jasmine, magnolia, vanilla
Base: Juniper, patchouli, papyrus, white tobacco

Packaged in yellow, gold and white and nestled in an eggshell blue and gold wooden box, Sunshine immediately screams of a new direction for Amouage, a more mainstream idea and Christopher Chong mocking all the brands that have been influenced by (or even copied) his innovations.

It’s creamy white goodness engulfs me…

Sunshine starts sweet as if an excited infant with mouth full of a fruit and marzipan-loaded wedding cake has breathed in my face in delight. It’s somehow juicy and powdery at the same time. I can also smell a bunch of balloons. I am thinking happy and celebratory thoughts while wearing this. Weddings, fairs, rollercoasters and jolly things like that. It’s bright, big white floral and gourmand for sure. But is it sunshine? The sun is definitely out, but I’d almost say its balmy late afternoon sunshine, not the scorching middle of the day sun we have here in Australia.

Osmanthus provides an enchanting and slightly exotic twist that somehow levels the swarm of sweetness engulfing me. It’s now as if the sunshine is surrounded by some thick deep and cosy cumulus clouds that we peer through olfactively. Osmanthus is a relative of lilac and has a similar kind of creamy powderyness to its scent. They do seem like cousins, smellwise, with Osmanthus being fruitier to me, somewhere between peachy mango and dried apricot in its heart. Osmanthus flowers can be creamy white right through to orange, but for perfume its the orange flowers that are used.

There is heavy waxy floral jasmine component evident throughout. Milky notes are waxy almond and nutty.

Sunshine’s slightly oriental tendancies and magical twists of Artemisia give it depth and keep it interesting. Its unisex for sure. Drydown seems to go forever (eight hours plus!) and at the end of the day my shirt still smells strongly, smoldering more and more…in fact getting quite sexy in contrast to its opening.

At the end of our time together Christopher signs our Amouage discovery box gifts and we leave him, exhausted, but giggling the whole ride down to planet earth via the lift!!

Ainslie Walker xxx

All the clear photos donated by Ainslie Walker, all the shit ones by Portia x

Shaal Nur by Etro 1997

December 15, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 8 Comments

Post by Tina G

Mid-December holds the final hurdle of the year, where everyone seems to be a little bit exhausted and holding in there just a few more weeks until the Christmas break. I’m the same. I’ve got three weeks of holiday coming up and summer is my favourite time of year, so I just can’t wait to play and chill and catch up with friends and family. December in Sydney has started out positively tropical. Bright sunny clear mornings, warm days, and massive thunderstorms rolling in around 4:00pm. So stepping out the door in the mornings I’ve been looking for something that is just simple, light and easy to wear in the heat and humidity. Three out of five days this week I’ve gravitated towards a new purchase from Etro – Shaal Nur.

Shaal Nur by Etro 1997

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Top: lemon, bergamot, grapefruit, mandarin, rosewood, coriander
Heart: thyme, tarragon, rosemary, karo karoundè, rose, petit grain
Base: patchouli, nutmeg, vetiver, cedarwood, opoponax, incense, musk

Etro was established in Italy, 1968 as a prêt-a-porter and haute couture textile company. The have men and women’s fashion, a home range, and fragrances and there is a boutique located in Mosman, Sydney (so the internet tells me).

Shaal-Nur is the Indian queen of the glowing light of dawn, promises abandonment and playfully ignites the senses, calming anxiety and easing stress. (ETRO)

Photo Stolen Flickr

Shaal Nur begins with a fresh cologne-like puff of citrus on opening, a citronella-lemon & grapefruit with a hint of watery mandarin and black pepper. This wooshes through in an invigorating rush, pulling up in its wake a fresh green petitgrain along with some herbal and floral notes. Silage is good and a few quick sprays on arms and chest has me smiling and ready to get my day started.

After about half an hour, this fragrance is all about patchouli and vetiver although there is a dusting of rose in the background. The patchouli is fresh cut and verdant, and there is open, aquatic vibe to the scent with an underlying spiciness. Over a period of about 4 hours a peppery note comes through changing the dry down, preventing it from being completely linear. At 8 hours, it is totally a skin scent but is still there with a kitchenesque vanilla and subtle amber plumping up the residual green notes.

Photo Stolen Pixabay

Further reading: Now Smell This and Bois de Jasmin
First In Fragrance has €74/50ml and samples

A three-word summary of Shaal Nur: Uncomplicated, light, refreshing. An easy-wear summer scent and one I’m very glad I picked up.

Have you tried the Etro range of fragrances? Please let me know your thoughts on which of theirs I should try next!

Tina G xx

Costa Azzura by Tom Ford 2014

December 14, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 11 Comments

Post by Liam

Hello fabulous fragrance fiends,

I’m back! Thanks for the kind reception on my first post, I didn’t expect such a torrent of kindness! Today I shift away from vintage perfume and look at a 2014 release from the house of Tom Ford….

Costa Azzura by Tom Ford 2014

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Seaweed, driftwood, agarwood (oud), ambrette (musk mallow), celery seeds, cardamom
Heart: Juniper, myrtle, lavender, lemon, yellow mandarin, artemisi
Base: Mastic or lentisque, olibanum, incense, vanilla, vetiver, oak

Generally I’m a descriptivist of smell, because you naturally have to be when you’re reviewing fragrance. It was Maurice Roucel who described himself as “an explorer wandering amidst his formulas”, and I personally like to wander amidst smell in general, using words to grapple and express the emotions stemming from perfumery. I feel sinful writing about fragrance in a bad light, but I think it’s impossible to like everything; someone has to do it anyway – dissent, that is.

Costa Azzura, you almost had it. You’re salty and drab like a preserved and tinned anchovy at the back of the pantry. For the most part, Tom Ford’s private line is an impressive lineup, presenting a powerhouse of fragrances with a more-than-modest appeal. Costa Azzura however, is familiar like pale grey skies over a beach.

Photo Stolen Flickr

Can we talk about mirepoix – a mixture of carrot, celery, onion, and bay leaf sautéed in olive oil? Why? Because Costa Azzura is a soppy concoction like a limp boiled carrot macerated with herbs- and smells like it too! Costa Azzura is salty and dank to the same extent the low tide is, why oh why Tom? It smells incomplete and dull without addictive heart notes resultantly feeling like cold steel on the skin and is redolent of the uncomfortable chill of sea water. There is no gravitas! No body! It’s lacking in its sensuality.

Photo Stolen Flickr

A hyper-gourmand, Costa Azzura fuses lemon, cardamon, celery seed, ambrette, vanilla, mastic, juniper … One might confuse this for a shopping list. An additional overload of lavender, driftwood, oud, and incense remind me of Pollock artwork; fuelled by chance and in the end disappointingly linear (unlike Pollock, of course). For those wanting to smell literally like the sea, in the most realistic way possible, Costa Azzura is your friend. A marine-woods scent presenting the perfect contradiction of ‘light heaviness’. This fragrance embodies the archetypical male musky fougere fragrance whilst trying very hard to escape that labelling, in turn smelling overloaded, superfluously enigmatic and, most importantly yet ashamedly generic in nature… also, no calone/watermelon ketones in sight!

This certainly exudes a beach-y smell, there’s no doubt about that. But is dirty seawater appealing? That’s up to you. Personally, I’m not a fan of smelling like seaweed; despite the novel nature of this fragrance.

I get excellent longevity with Costa Azzura, with about 8 to 10 hours (too long!). Sillage is surprisingly subtle, perfect for lazy days.

Photo Stolen Pixabay

Further reading: Candy Perfume Boy and Chemist In A Bottle
LuckyScent has $215/50ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/.5ml

Sometimes writing about fragrances like this is a written cathartic exercise. I recommend you try this fragrance, and see if you can pick up on any overly gourmand nuances. What fragrances do you dissent in opinion with?

Come across and check out my blog when you get a chance: Olfactics

Have a lovely lovely day!

-Liam