Urura's Tokyo Cafe by Sarah McCartney for 4160 Tuesdays

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Post by Poodle

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The name of the company (4160 Tuesdays) is based on how many Tuesdays you’ll live if you make it to 80 years old. The idea is that that’s all you’ve got so make the most of them. Sarah McCartney is the writer and perfumer behind the brand. From what I can gather she’s based in London and had no formal training as a perfumer. Her scents were originally bespoke creations for friends and perfumes created to scent characters in a novel.

Urura’s Tokyo Cafe by Sarah McCartney for 4160 Tuesdays

Urara's Tokyo Cafe 4160 TuesdaysPhoto Stolen 4160 Tuesdays

4160 Tuesdays gives these featured accords in one line:
Grapefruit, tangerine, opoponax, tolu balsam, geranium, violet, rose, raspberry leaf

Recently I was lucky enough to win a bottle of Urura’s Tokyo Cafe by 4160 Tuesdays on Indiescents. I just started hearing about the line so I was excited to try it. If the rest of Sarah McCartney’s perfumes are like Urura’s Tokyo Cafe, she is proof that you don’t necessarily need training to be really good at something. For some it comes naturally.

Urura’s Tokyo Cafe was created to raise money for a charity event. The name of this does not really give an impression of what’s going on in the perfume. Actually it’s hard for me to pin that down as well. I mean that in a good way. It’s a chameleon on my skin. Depending on the day, the weather, my mood, who knows what else, it smells a bit different each time. It was easy to wear but hard to dissect. After wearing it almost daily for a week here’s what I can say.

Urara's Tokyo Cafe 4160 Tuesdays geranium PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

At times I get a lot of grapefruit and tangerine, more rind than juice. There’s a jammy quality but it’s never too sweet. It doesn’t smell overly citrusy either. I think the geranium keeps that in check lending an herbal bitterness which comes and goes to my nose. Some days it smelled chypre-like to me with an almost mossy quality. The rose changed on me day to day as well. It was dark at times, slightly sour and metallic on others, and then full bloom bouquet on the days the violet made an appearance. I have to admit I liked them all. The scent is well blended and a better nose might be able to pick it apart note by note, but I can’t, nor do I want to. It just smells good and unlike anything else I own. With the way it’s changed on me you might have a totally different experience with this perfume too.

Urara's Tokyo Cafe 4160 Tuesdays Pimm's Cup ImpromptuKitchen FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Somehow it made me think of a cocktail, a Pimm’s Cup, which I believe are popular in London. Sweet yet bitter, fruity yet herbal. (I wonder if that was an inspiration in making this perfume…)
I think it’s easily unisex and I get hours of wear on my skin, on clothes it lingers for days and I find I bury my face in my scarf to smell it.

4160 Tuesdays has £40/30ml

Until next time…
Poodle

B.Balenciaga by Domitille Bertier for Balenciaga 2014 + Ad Campaign

Hiya Happy Huffers and Fashionistas,

Not due to be released till mid October 2014 the whisper and advertising mill is already full steam ahead. Balenciaga, once super proud fashion house and fragrance purveyor could be ready to take center stage again with this new piece of magic….

B.Balenciaga by Domitille Bertier for Balenciaga 2014

B. Balenciaga Cristobal Balenciaga FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lily of the valley, Pea, Violet leaf
Heart: Orris, Cedar
Base: Cashmirwood, Ambrette (Musk Mallow)

Looks like Balenciaga has gone out on a limb to bring us something green and woodsy. Could this be prefacing a change in the wind for mainstream fragrances? Fingers crossed, because I am totally excited already and can’t wait to try it.

Portia xx

B.Balenciaga by Domitille Bertier for Balenciaga 2014 Ad Campaign

Rising model Anna Ewers is the campaign face for Alexander Wang‘s first fragrance for Balenciaga, B.Balenciaga. The campaign was photographed by Steven Klein and styled by Vanessa Traina. (source)

"14°S 48°E” EdP Natural Terroir Perfume by Vero Kern for Richard Lüscher Britos 2013

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Post by Val the Cookie Queen

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Hi APJ,

Malvin Richard, Lukas Lüscher and Serena Britos (RLB) contacted Vero Kern with regards to creating a fragrance for their project. Unique fragrances, created around and characterized by certain landscapes, plants and people. Hence “Terroir”. (Please jump to Olfactoria’s Travels and read the account of my visit to the launch!)

ValCQ Terrior

 

I wondered how Vero Kern got involved in this fascinating project, so I asked her! They did not know each other. RLB contacted Vero when they were looking for perfumers for their project. They knew of her from various press articles and blogs. Conveniently, they all live in Switzerland too! Vero fell in love with the concept from the beginning. especially with their Terroir philosophy. She felt that it fit in very well with her personal goals in perfumery. It was a distinct advantage of course that Vero had started her scent career with aromatherapy. Working with
natural materials requires experience.

“14°S 48°E” EdP Natural Terroir Perfume by Vero Kern

for Richard Lüscher Britos 2013

MADAGASCAR “14°S 48°E” – Confidence in the Unknown

Please look at the website: it explains clearly here the three levels of each fragrance. Each of the Terroir perfumers were briefed; the materials they would chose needed to correspond with these levels, the core of the Terroir concept.

Vero´s choices included:

Top: Green mandarin, Bergamotte, Citron
Heart: Ylang Ylang (the main star of 14°S 48°E) Frangipani, Pink Pepper
Base: Vetiver, Cacao, Vanille, Tolu

“Madagascar is known for its incredible biodiversity …… a melting pot of cultures …… the Ambanja forests …….”

The Terroirs are only made from natural raw materials.

ValCQ Vero Tree

Now is the part where I should tell you how it smells. I have been wearing this more on than off for the last five weeks. Walking around with my nose glued to various parts of my body is not the best way to enjoy this glorious fragrance. I realized that when my daughter walked into the room and commented on the lovely vanilla smell. I couldn´t detect that in close proximity. There is a killer burst of sour citrus as the beginning which is totally invigorating. It slides seamlessly into a quite spicy and slightly bitter bouquet, balmy and relaxing. Ylang Ylang buzzing around like a bee. The vetiver is earthy. The vanilla cunning!

My first try out of 14°S 48°S was in the winter. It was nice, but something was being held back. It is completely different in the heat. It thrives in the warmth and releases its aromatic secrets more willingly. I don´t have much experience with naturals, but I would say this is quite tenacious as it lasts, liberally sprayed, about 6 hours on my skin. The flaçons are fabulous.

I am sat here in a big cloud of it: a huge .vero.profumo. fan (have I ever mentioned that) and it has been an absolute pleasure to be able to try some of Vero Kern´s other work. A million thanks to the fabulous Vero for her help and photo and to Lukas for the generous samples.

All naturally yours
CQ

Photos Donated by Val CQ

“14°S 48°E” EdP Natural Terroir Perfume GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 2 winners who will each get:
1 x “14°S 48°E” EdP sample
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please leave a comment with a reason as to why the Terroir interests you.

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Friday 15th June 2014 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
I will crack out my dead armadillo, which did not come from Madagascar, pop the names into it, and get one of the kids to pick one.
The winners will have till Tuesday 19th June 2014 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

 

Annual Seattle Artisan Fragrance Salon 2014

Hello APJ,

It’s May 4th, 2014! Welcome to the Second Annual Seattle Artisan Fragrance Salon (and chocolate show) at the Bell Harbor International Conference Center on the Seattle waterfront.

  

As we enter we see the Olympic Orchids booth tended by perfumer Ellen Covey and friend Stacey Gilbert.  Ellen Covey’s 2013 Blackbird was a finalist in the recent Art and Olfaction Awards and her newest offerings, Sakura and African Orchid, are at least as beautiful as Blackbird.  Sakura, a light and realistic cherry blossom fragrance,  seems to remind my grand daughter Allie that Spring is actually in Seattle, despite the foul weather. Ellen’s soaps and oils are a also treat and I hear she may be venturing into yet another format in the near future. 

 
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We take our time enjoying Olympic Orchids fragrances before moving on to NomadTwoWorlds.  Nomad is by no stretch of the imagination an artisan perfumery.  The house perfumer is the extremely talented master perfumer Harry Fremont who, while working with Firmenich, has been the nose behind over 70 top designer and celebrity fragrances.  That being said, Nomad’s perfumes are lovely.  I especially enjoyed their signature oil FireTree. The company’s commitment to supporting indigenous peoples, while bringing their raw materials to market (via Firmenich?), is very interesting indeed.  Harry Fremont is not manning the booth (no surprise) but here is a photo of a couple of the Nomad crew at work.

 
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For a real artisan, all natural and local experience we head over to Meshaz Natural Perfumes and perfumer Mesha Munyan assisted by her son Evan Winter.  Mesha operates a small farm on Washington’s Olympic Peninsula near Sequim where she grows and distills lavender and creates her own perfumes from botanical tinctures and oils.  Mesha is a nationally known expert on lavender and lavender oils.  My current favorite in her line is Zauvage, but all of her perfumes are exquisite, powerful and carefully crafted, a must try for botanical (and all) fragrance lovers .

 
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IMG_2608We would like to stay at Mishas’s booth for hours but, moving along, we find two new faces at this year’s salon!  Perfumer Kenneth Cory and friend Michael DeLong are here for the first time, in fact this is one of Kenneth’s initial fragrance shows and what a fabulous collection of perfume he is offering!  Son A-1 and I love his entire line, especially Fougere Osmanthus.  I know husband B-Azar will also take a shine to this one.  I am bringing home samples of everything and looking forward to learning more as well as writing more about Kenneth Cory and his beautiful fragrances.
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Next door to Kenneth, award winning veteran Pacific Northwest perfumer, Karyn Gold-Reineke,  has set up her Pirouette booth. Karyn’s gorgeous soaps, perfumes and lotions have been enjoyed by so many of us for several years now. My favorite of her fragrances is the botanical perfume Moss Garden.  Her sets of tiny sample soaps are works of art, beautifully scented and exquisitely wrapped. I am buying some for gifts but know I will have a hard time parting with them.IMG_2616

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Also, I noticed that Karyn is displaying a small box labeled “Indie Fragrance Criterion”.  This is a sample set of PNW perfumers co-curated by Meredith Smith of Sweet Anthem and Tigerlily Perfumes in San Francisco.  The set includes samples by 6 PNW perfumers including Sweet Anthem, Rebel and Mercury, Sweet Tea Apothecary, Olympic Orchids , Pirouette Perfumes and Blooming Dreams.  Look for more about this set and a possible give-away soon.

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As we turn the corner Rosarium Blends grabs our attention.  Catamara Rosarium is the talented perfumer, master herbalist, ritual artist and real live alchemist behind the line.  Her partner Marcus McCoy is an accomplished distiller.  The calibre of their fragrances reflects their depth of knowledge and experience. One of my favorite Rosarium Blends is Satyr. Catamara and Marcus are both fascinating personalities and it would be great fun to bring their perspective on perfumery to APJ sometime in the future.

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Our final visit of the day is to JT Siems’ Sweet Tea Apothecary. JT’s love of history and literature inspire her 16 currently available fragrances.  Sweet Tea Apothecary perfumes are rich, mixed media scents with interesting, evolving profiles, classically evocative with timeless appeal. A couple of my favorites are Archibald (for Archibald Menzies, one of the first scientists to explore the PNW) and Dharma Bums (what else but a patchouli fragrance referencing who else but Jack Kerouac)!

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I hope you have enjoyed this visit to the Second Annual Seattle Artisan Fragrance Salon.  Now off we go to the Chocolate Show!

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Azar xx

 

Neela Vermeire Creations 4 x 8ml Discovery Set

WOO HOO!

Now you all know what a huge fan and friend I am of Neela Vermeire. You also may remember that I am such a devoted fan I went and met her and her husband T with Jin in 2013 and then hung out with her again this year in Paris with Michael. We chat as often as we can on Skype and I love her to the core of my being.

Last time we were together I questioned the luxe value of her samples and discovery set. Well, she told me that it was a problem already being dealt with by the company and that I had to wait and see what was on the cards for later this year. I am extremely pleased to announce the most elegant and lavishly presented…..

Neela Vermeire Creations 4 x 8ml Discovery Set 2014

Neela Vermeire creations 4x8ml #1

Neela Vermeire creations 4x8ml #2

Neela Vermeire creations 4x8ml #3

Neela Vermeire creations 4x8ml #4

Yes, it now has 4 x 8ml. Your gateway to incredible fragrances created by Bertrand Duchaufour with Neela. Every one a tantalising taste of India done in a very French style, an amazing quartet and each one very different from the other. In my nose these are the diamonds in Duchaufour’s work and Ashoka recently won the Art & Olfaction Award for Independent Perfume. A huge honour and Neela is completely chuffed.

Neela-Vermeire-WET-WILLYNeela & I in Paris 2014

If you don’t know about Neela Vermeire’s fragrances here is some further reading:
Ashoka: Val the Cookie Queen on APJ and Portia on APJ
Bombay Bling: Val the Cookie Queen on APJ and Portia on APJ
Mohur: Portia on APJ
Trayee: Portia on Perfume Posse

Do you want one of these lovely sets?
Currently sending to Europe and the USA at €100 including postage
Write to Neela Vermeire Creations<<<JUMP because the EBoutique is currently under reconstruction. You can buy Discovery Sets and Bottles from NVC directly.

I will definitely need to spend some more time with Trayee now I have this set. I promise a review in the not too distant future.

Portia xx

Flashback by Olivier Cresp for Olfactive Studio 2013

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Post by TinaG

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Perfume holds a vision of truth – a truth which can strike deeply to our core, a trigger which can bring to the surface a crazy mix of visions in a flash of memory, borne only from a single, deep breath. It is such a personal sensation, that rush, corners of the mouth relaxing into a smile and just the enjoyment of being swept away in an all-encompassing pure experience, if only for a few moments.

One of the challenges I find is conveying that feeling, those emotions to other people. How do you capture that? You can’t photograph a smell, but you can convey the sense of a moment through an image. Sometimes we write beautifully crafted landscapes to try and explain what it is that we are experiencing – I think that is often the most successful way, but ultimately one may need to go on that experience themselves to see whether they agree, disagree, or are led down a completely different olfactory path.

Flashback by Olivier Cresp for Olfactive Studio 2013

Flash Back Olfactive Studio FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Rhubarb, orange, grapefruit
Heart: Granny Smith apple, pink pepper
Base: Vetiver, cedar, amber, musk

Olfactive Studio’s fragrances have taken a different approach to their scent creations, by starting with photographic art, and creating a fragrance which reflects that moment. Sometimes I get it, like the half-light of a distant hotel room with Chambre Noir, other times I’ve been taken my own journey like the amazingly visual images I got whilst testing Still Life – albeit quite different from the photograph Still Life was created in conjunction with. And I’m OK with that, it is all part of the story.

Flash Back Olfactive Studio pic  FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

So here on another Olfactive Studio journey, I give my wrists a light dewy dusting of Flashback, allowing the fragrance plenty of breathing space. The reward is a whoosh of gentle pink pepper and a deep moist green rhubarb. The rhubarb here is freshly picked, the stem snapped in half with juices flowing. This fresh bitterness is countered and lifted by the beautiful understated warmth and sweetness of the pink pepper.

After half an hour it is joined by grapefruit, such as one which has just been cut and squeezed. It is crossing over between smell and taste in a big way as I can feel my tongue tingling from the sharp juiciness. The wallflower orange is shyly floating in the background but never really makes a stand. At two hours cedar comes through along with some pink musk which help soften the citrus, but this seems to fade after an hour and I get the predominant grapefruit back again but this time with a lingering underlying touch of vetiver, and this combination lasts and lasts.

Flash Back Olfactive Studio Alice Henneman FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Further reading: The Non Blonde and Olfactoria’s Travels
First In Fragrance have €72/50ml and samples

Libertine Parfumerie has 100ml/$195 including postage within Australia
Peony Melbourne has 100ml/$195

Because of the tanginess of this fragrance I’m considering it for a travel scent, as the rhubarb and citrus would be a refreshing pick-me-up after a long haul flight. So perhaps there may be stories in our future – always happy to make some new & fun memories!

Tina G

Basil: Green, Green, Green

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Post by Suzanne R Banks

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Beautiful green basil!

If you are ever feeling down, a bit tired and generally blah, grab some fresh basil. Grind up a leaf in your fingers and inhale deeply. Eat a few leaves. Rest a minute.

Phew!

Basil: Essential Oil Recipes

basil plant PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

And if you can make a few blends with basil oil, it will not disappoint you at all. It is an oil that is so clearing and revitalising you’ll be so glad you’ve made friends with it. Here are a few recipes.

1. Basil: Put A few Drops Of Oil into the bottom of the Shower

This works in a similar way to just taking a whiff straight from the bottle, but if you’ve got an extra minute, it will give you a completely different experience. Your whole body will be immersed in an essential oil steam.

Basil oil will wake you up in the morning and give you a fresh green start to the day.

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Basil_Flower WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

2. Basil: Personal Aura Cleansing Mist & Room Mist

In a 50ml mist bottle filled with water add 25 drops of oil

(depending on the packaging you have, you may need to use a little alcohol -like vodka- at the bottom of your bottle first, so the oils disperse into smaller drops to prevent clogging the atomiser top. I’ve found sometimes it works just with water, and sometimes it doesn’t – very annoying!)

“Cool Water Brain Rinse”

Clear brain fog –

Basil 8 drops
Orange 12 drops
Cypress 5 drops

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“Creative Explosion”

When you need to open to your creative drive –

Basil 6 drops
Rosemary 6 drops
Lime 6 drops
Geranium 6 drops

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“Bubble of Inspiration”

When you need to surround yourself with light, creative energy –

Basil 7 drops
Rosewood 12 drops
Lemongrass 6 drops

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“It’s Morning!”

Help the whole family wake up smiling –

Basil 8 drops
Petitgrain 12 drops
Cedarwood Virginian 5 drops

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Basil_leavesPhoto stolen Wikipedia

3. Basil: Pure Pulse Point Perfume

In a little dish mix these oils and anoint your pulse points or chakras – 3 drops of essential oils and dilute with a few drops of carrier oil – always patch test first!

“Awaken the Goddess”

Open to divine guidance –

Basil 1 drop
Sandalwood Australian 1 drop
Mandarin 1 drop

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“Big Meeting this Morning”

Stay focused and relaxed-

Basil 2 drops
Lavender 1 drop

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“Clean Green”

Give yourself a burst of vitality –

Basil 1 drop
Palmarosa 1 drop
May Chang 1 drop

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basil plantsPhoto Stolen Flickr

4. Basil: Scent Your Space

I usually say “In a traditional oil burner with a candle or a diffuser add 25 drops of oil”, but I also recommend you put about 15 drops in the water with your usual product and mop the floors. It’s a great way to get an aromatherapy treatment while cleaning!

and

In a traditional oil burner with a candle or a diffuser add 25 drops of oil –

“Hello World”

Welcome every day –
Basil 6 drops
Peru Balsam 8 drops
Lemon 11 drops

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Happy blending and remember to use your intention when you are creating your formulas. See my article about intention.

Suzanne R Banks XXX

Suzanne R Banks Blog
Suzanne R Banks Aromatherapy
Suzanne R Banks FaceBook

copyright suzannerbanks 2013

Velvet Flowers by Montale

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Post by Ainslie Walker

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It’s time for a Spanish pilgrimage. We know Spain is famous for its pilgrimages…Camino De Santiago in particular. Here at APJ, we are pilgrams of perfume, so therefore I want to tell you about an awesome little perfumerie in San Sebastian, Spain, which just might be worth “pilgrimaging” to when next you are in Europe.

The store was first started as an English style barbershop and perfumery in 1908, and was named Casa Benegas. The founder D.Francisco Benegas and his wife Dona Justa Echeverria were extremely entrepreneurial, incorporating the latest trends from both the French and the English. It’s a lovely store, on a corner in Donostia, San Sebastian and actually HUGE once inside. Shelves surrounding from floor to ceiling FILLED with beautiful gleaming packages. San Sebastian was and still is full of glamour: artists, celebrities and royals have headed there for their summers, even before the perfumery opened. These”high profilers” made up the majority of Casa Benegas customers, right from the start.

BenegasPhoto Stolen Benegas

Fifty years later the business was taken over by their son who concentrated on the perfumery, introducing international brands and then some cosmetics. Now in the hands of the 3rd and 4th generation of Benegas’s, this incredible family business still manages to show the original owners entrepreneurial spirit, selling many leading pioneering brands and yet keeping the feel of the original concept.

The personalized service is exceptional, and it was here my friend was guided towards a bottle of….

Velvet Flowers by Montale

Velvet Flowers Montale FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Peach blossom, rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, saffron, fruit aroma, sandalwood, gurjan balsam, musk

Out of it’s Benegas giftwrap and box comes a sleek silk bag, inside an brushed gold aluminum bottle with a decorative pin which also stops it from being pressed unintentionally. Impressive. Modern, and not really giving away, what’s inside.

Benegas WrappingPhoto Donated Ainslie Walker

First spray is fruity and floral – peachy and clean, womanly but with a bit of flirty, sexy fun. Woodsy enough to feel a little unusual, and certainly robust. It’s warm, perhaps a touch of spice, and VERY sweet and intoxicating. As it settles its rosey-peachy waxiness goes on and on. Under this though is something interesting. Candy? I am reminded of opening a bottle of Darryl Lee ‘bo peeps’. YUM. Such an interesting fusion of strong woman and girl in a candy store! This fragrance screams fun.

Velvet Flowers Montale Jjb@nalog flickrPhoto Stolen Fotopedia

Strong and long lasting, it’s not necessarily the most natural of smells but there is something about it I like nonetheless and the fruity floral remains steady, even on waking the next day.. Sometimes that’s the great thing about synthetic smells, they are new to the senses. I am reminded of Mugler’s Alien, but my sample is not nearby for a closer comparison. But this is definitely peachier, rosey and less heady. There are also some softer tones to velvet flowers. On a hot day the floral evaporates faster, leaving me with an odd metallic musk smell, which is probably my worst moment with VF. The best time is the first 1-2 hours. It’s clean, fresh and slightly creamy….but more waxy.

Velvet Flowers Montale  Loo Treated Myself to FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Further reading: Scent for Thought
Beauty Encounter has $130/100ml
First In Fragrance has €99/100ml and samples

Marketed as unisex, I find this fragrance hyperfeminine. I cannot imagine smelling it on a man. Really modern version of a fruity floral oriental, with additional sweetness. It’s certainly a pick me up kind of a fragrance, with more than 1 meaning! ;D

What other perfumes stores have you found around the world and where are they?

Ainslie Walker X

Evelyn's Rose by Mark Evans for Evocative Perfumes

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Post by Sister Mary Magdalen, Patron Saint of Perfumers

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Today APJ I invite you all to remember and enjoy simple pleasures…

Although ordinarily living an entirely cloistered life, recently myself and another of the Sisters ventured to our nearby provincial Rose Garden for seasonal devotions. Marvelous sunshine and hundreds of rose varieties in full bloom saw hours pass in happy contemplation. Whilst some folk no doubt admire the colour or form of the bloom above all, for us the attraction was chiefly in the fragrance. This led us in short order to beds planted with David Austin roses. This English rose breeder introduces cultivars that are selected for their rich intense scent. With so many varieties of his roses blooming, it was not long before we were exclaiming over such notes as violet, hyacinth, musk, myrrh, honey, incense, quince and apple in the various flowers.

Evelyn's Rose Evocative Perfumes Rosa_Evelyn WikipediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

One of these David Austin roses, Evelyn Rose, had a delicious peachy note along with a superb Old English Rose heart. He named it for English toiletries company Crabtree and Evelyn who are said to use this rose variety in some of their products. I had not fallen for the C&E perfume on recent test, so it was a treat then to discover another Evelyn’s Rose by an Australian perfumer.

Evelyn’s Rose by Mark Evans for Evocative Perfumes

Evelyn's Rose Evocative PerfumesPhoto Stolen Evocative Perfumes

Evocative Perfumes gives these featured accords in one line”
Evelyn’s Rose, rose, clean musks

A burst of almost minty freshness heralds a delightful rose heart with a fresh peach character. Musky notes start unfurling early on, and despite my initial concern that the musks might stray too far in the direction of the laundry for my tastes, they are restrained and balanced with the fruit and floral facets in the composition.

The overall impression is of a naturalistic fresh rose with fruity and clean musky elements. As the scent wears, a wisp of incense smoke seems to weave its way through. Evelyn’s Rose is a sweet and simple rose scent. For me it is a lovely memento of a day out amongst the real roses. This is a perfume oil to be applied sparingly. A few dabs give around 6 hours of being the centre of a pleasant rosy cloud.

Evelyn's Rose Evocative Perfumes Heidi-Klum-Rose WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Often people seeking a rose perfume will declare they are looking for a “true” rose. Having sniffed scores of these luscious shapeshifters, I’m not sure such a thing exists!

Evocative Perfumes has $35/12ml Perfume Oil

Do you have a favourite rose soliflore scent or favourite variety of rose bloom? What other notes have you smelled in rose blooms?

Remember, take time to smell the roses,
Sister Mary Magdelene, Patron Saint of Perfumers.

Luxe Champaca EdT Comme des Garcons 2007

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Post by FeralJasmine

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I have a secret fantasy about having my hair done in India. In this fantasy it would again be long and auburn, and would be skillfully braided with strands of jasmine. I would feel the smoothness of my light silk clothing, and smell the single Champaca flower floating in a bowl of water nearby, and wait… for what, exactly? I’m not sure. The whole point would be that moment of beauty, radiant and complete.

Luxe Champaca EdT Comme des Garcons 2007

Luxe Champaca Eau de Toilette Comme des Garcons FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
White pepper, angelica, champaca, cardamom, pepper, white musk, iris

I can’t claim that Luxe Champaca provides that exact moment, but then, how many perfumes do? It does offer a radiant sweetness, light but somehow penetrating, that floats around me like the memory of beauty. I haven’t yet sampled the Champaca EDP from the same line, and maybe it’s a richer scent. But the EDT has its place. Like everyone else, I have a million tasks a day to complete, and very little time to sit around having fantasies of beauty. But the memory of radiance that the EDT carries can follow me around, wafting lightly, appearing and disappearing unexpectedly, whispering to me to remember perfect beauty and believe that it could exist. It’s as if my waiting jasmine-braided self were reaching toward my professional persona with a calming hand. Stop, she whispers softly, and feel.

Eau de Toilette Comme des Garcons Lei_pikake WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

For such a delicate beauty, Champaca is surprisingly persistent and lasts hours on my perfume-eating skin, coming and going a bit but always there. It’s a good scent for spraying on scarves and lingerie. I can’t imagine this one on a man, but that may be due to a limited imagination, so gentlemen, try it if you feel so inclined and report back.

Eau de Toilette Comme des Garcons Flower_garland_sellers WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Further reading: Now Smell This and Perfume Smellin’ Things
First in Fragrance has €110/100ml and samples
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $5/.5ml

Now, I would love it if you shared one of your beauty fantasies with me. In your lovely thought, where are you, what are you doing, and what do you smell?

FeralJasmine