DIOR: Secret Garden III – Versailles – The Film

Hi Ho APJ,

I love this series of DIOR Secret Garden videos. They are so ridiculously lavish and show us bits of Versailles that the regular visitor never gets to see.

I grabbed the photos from my go-to fashion blog art8amby and the film from YouTube
I hope you enjoy the glamour as much as I do.
Portia xx
Dior Secret Garden III 1  art8amby
Dior Secret Garden III 2  art8amby

Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin are once again working together with model Daria Strokous and high end label Dior to create the brand’s latest Secret Garden campaign. (source)

DIOR: Secret Garden III – Versailles – The Film

Neela Vermeire Creations 4 x 8ml Discovery Set

WOO HOO!

Now you all know what a huge fan and friend I am of Neela Vermeire. You also may remember that I am such a devoted fan I went and met her and her husband T with Jin in 2013 and then hung out with her again this year in Paris with Michael. We chat as often as we can on Skype and I love her to the core of my being.

Last time we were together I questioned the luxe value of her samples and discovery set. Well, she told me that it was a problem already being dealt with by the company and that I had to wait and see what was on the cards for later this year. I am extremely pleased to announce the most elegant and lavishly presented…..

Neela Vermeire Creations 4 x 8ml Discovery Set 2014

Neela Vermeire creations 4x8ml #1

Neela Vermeire creations 4x8ml #2

Neela Vermeire creations 4x8ml #3

Neela Vermeire creations 4x8ml #4

Yes, it now has 4 x 8ml. Your gateway to incredible fragrances created by Bertrand Duchaufour with Neela. Every one a tantalising taste of India done in a very French style, an amazing quartet and each one very different from the other. In my nose these are the diamonds in Duchaufour’s work and Ashoka recently won the Art & Olfaction Award for Independent Perfume. A huge honour and Neela is completely chuffed.

Neela-Vermeire-WET-WILLYNeela & I in Paris 2014

If you don’t know about Neela Vermeire’s fragrances here is some further reading:
Ashoka: Val the Cookie Queen on APJ and Portia on APJ
Bombay Bling: Val the Cookie Queen on APJ and Portia on APJ
Mohur: Portia on APJ
Trayee: Portia on Perfume Posse

Do you want one of these lovely sets?
Currently sending to Europe and the USA at €100 including postage
Write to Neela Vermeire Creations<<<JUMP because the EBoutique is currently under reconstruction. You can buy Discovery Sets and Bottles from NVC directly.

I will definitely need to spend some more time with Trayee now I have this set. I promise a review in the not too distant future.

Portia xx

CHANEL "Paris-Dallas" Collection: Savoir Faire 2014: Making of

Woo Hoo Fashion Fragrance Lovers,

CHANEL seems to be powering ahead still under the guidance of Karl Lagerfeld. Seriously I think he is a machine, able to change tack and style effortlessly and still bring us outrageously extravagant showings season after season. I can’t think of anyone who has been on the fashion scene this long who can match him, can you?
Portia xx

chanel-paris-dallas BelloBlogPhoto Stolen BelloBlog (any probs using this image please get in touch)

Making of the CHANEL “Paris-Dallas” Collection: Savoir Faire 2014

Details of the CHANEL “Paris-Dallas” Collection: Organza, Feathers, Pleats

Evelyn's Rose by Mark Evans for Evocative Perfumes

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Post by Sister Mary Magdalen, Patron Saint of Perfumers

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Today APJ I invite you all to remember and enjoy simple pleasures…

Although ordinarily living an entirely cloistered life, recently myself and another of the Sisters ventured to our nearby provincial Rose Garden for seasonal devotions. Marvelous sunshine and hundreds of rose varieties in full bloom saw hours pass in happy contemplation. Whilst some folk no doubt admire the colour or form of the bloom above all, for us the attraction was chiefly in the fragrance. This led us in short order to beds planted with David Austin roses. This English rose breeder introduces cultivars that are selected for their rich intense scent. With so many varieties of his roses blooming, it was not long before we were exclaiming over such notes as violet, hyacinth, musk, myrrh, honey, incense, quince and apple in the various flowers.

Evelyn's Rose Evocative Perfumes Rosa_Evelyn WikipediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

One of these David Austin roses, Evelyn Rose, had a delicious peachy note along with a superb Old English Rose heart. He named it for English toiletries company Crabtree and Evelyn who are said to use this rose variety in some of their products. I had not fallen for the C&E perfume on recent test, so it was a treat then to discover another Evelyn’s Rose by an Australian perfumer.

Evelyn’s Rose by Mark Evans for Evocative Perfumes

Evelyn's Rose Evocative PerfumesPhoto Stolen Evocative Perfumes

Evocative Perfumes gives these featured accords in one line”
Evelyn’s Rose, rose, clean musks

A burst of almost minty freshness heralds a delightful rose heart with a fresh peach character. Musky notes start unfurling early on, and despite my initial concern that the musks might stray too far in the direction of the laundry for my tastes, they are restrained and balanced with the fruit and floral facets in the composition.

The overall impression is of a naturalistic fresh rose with fruity and clean musky elements. As the scent wears, a wisp of incense smoke seems to weave its way through. Evelyn’s Rose is a sweet and simple rose scent. For me it is a lovely memento of a day out amongst the real roses. This is a perfume oil to be applied sparingly. A few dabs give around 6 hours of being the centre of a pleasant rosy cloud.

Evelyn's Rose Evocative Perfumes Heidi-Klum-Rose WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Often people seeking a rose perfume will declare they are looking for a “true” rose. Having sniffed scores of these luscious shapeshifters, I’m not sure such a thing exists!

Evocative Perfumes has $35/12ml Perfume Oil

Do you have a favourite rose soliflore scent or favourite variety of rose bloom? What other notes have you smelled in rose blooms?

Remember, take time to smell the roses,
Sister Mary Magdelene, Patron Saint of Perfumers.

Luxe Champaca EdT Comme des Garcons 2007

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Post by FeralJasmine

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I have a secret fantasy about having my hair done in India. In this fantasy it would again be long and auburn, and would be skillfully braided with strands of jasmine. I would feel the smoothness of my light silk clothing, and smell the single Champaca flower floating in a bowl of water nearby, and wait… for what, exactly? I’m not sure. The whole point would be that moment of beauty, radiant and complete.

Luxe Champaca EdT Comme des Garcons 2007

Luxe Champaca Eau de Toilette Comme des Garcons FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
White pepper, angelica, champaca, cardamom, pepper, white musk, iris

I can’t claim that Luxe Champaca provides that exact moment, but then, how many perfumes do? It does offer a radiant sweetness, light but somehow penetrating, that floats around me like the memory of beauty. I haven’t yet sampled the Champaca EDP from the same line, and maybe it’s a richer scent. But the EDT has its place. Like everyone else, I have a million tasks a day to complete, and very little time to sit around having fantasies of beauty. But the memory of radiance that the EDT carries can follow me around, wafting lightly, appearing and disappearing unexpectedly, whispering to me to remember perfect beauty and believe that it could exist. It’s as if my waiting jasmine-braided self were reaching toward my professional persona with a calming hand. Stop, she whispers softly, and feel.

Eau de Toilette Comme des Garcons Lei_pikake WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

For such a delicate beauty, Champaca is surprisingly persistent and lasts hours on my perfume-eating skin, coming and going a bit but always there. It’s a good scent for spraying on scarves and lingerie. I can’t imagine this one on a man, but that may be due to a limited imagination, so gentlemen, try it if you feel so inclined and report back.

Eau de Toilette Comme des Garcons Flower_garland_sellers WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Further reading: Now Smell This and Perfume Smellin’ Things
First in Fragrance has €110/100ml and samples
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $5/.5ml

Now, I would love it if you shared one of your beauty fantasies with me. In your lovely thought, where are you, what are you doing, and what do you smell?

FeralJasmine

M Mariah Carey by Carlos Benaim and Loc Dong for Mariah Carey 2007

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Post by Katrina

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Mariah Carey has released 14 perfumes to date and most of them are in cute bottles in a range of different colours with a butterfly cap. Many of Mariah’s gorgeous butterfly bottles contain sugary sweet and fruity perfumes like the Lollipop Bling and Lollipop Splash lines. The original purple bottle though is something quite different.

M Mariah Carey by Mariah Carey 2007

Carlos Benaim and Loc Dong

M Mariah Carey FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives the following notes:
Top: Marshmallow, sea notes
Heart: Tiara, gardenia
Base: Amber, patchouli, Moroccan incense

M by Mariah Carey in the very cute purple butterfly bottle was the first perfume released by Mariah Carey. M is quite a heavy mature floral fragrance in contrast to the rest of her sweet fruity floral fragrances perfumes. Mariah Carey has a wide range of different fragrance styles and Mariah Carey M is definitely a more mature fragrance.

Clotty from Fragrantica says: When I first sprayed this, I thought it smelled very familiar. Now I know what it is. It smells similar to what a vintage-formulation of Dior Poison smells like on the dry down.

NowGet2WorkBitch on Fragrantica says: Love this! it smells like marshmallows and is very sweet but when u wear it it also has hints of incense too but doesn’t lose it’s marshmallow scent which is just amazing!

2009 Armed Forces Inaugural CommitteePhoto Stolen WikiCommons

Mariah Carey M starts out with gardenia that is quite heavy and could be overpowering if you sprayed too much. There is also the scent of salty sea air. The sea note is one element of this fragrance that I really enjoy. Contrasting the salt is the sweetness of marshmallow, which is blended in without adding too much sweetness but it does smell delicious. Mariah Carey M is not a very sweet perfume, the fragrance is really dominated by the gardenia, a strong floral note until the base notes take over. M evolves with incense and patchouli giving the perfume an exotic oriental floral style. M is a strong feminine perfume with character and complexities. This is a beautiful perfume that I love to wear. M Mariah Carey is a grown up perfume in a girly bottle.

M Mariah Carey  Beautiful WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

Further reading: Now Smell This
FragranceNet has M By Mariah Carey from $21.12/50ml
My Perfume Samples starts at $2/ml

For more celebrity perfume reviews, check out my Celebrity Perfume Website

If you haven’t tried M by Mariah Carey I hope you give it a chance.
Katrina xx

Sandalo by ETRO 1989

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Post by SarahK

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Hello fellow ‘fumeheads!

I hope you’re all in your happy spaces, but for anybody feeling pressed or stressed, today I’m going to talk about a beautiful calming fragrance. It’s not new, but I’ve only recently had the pleasure of discovering it.

There’s a residual scent that I get from a number of my favourite perfumes, a sort of musky sandalwood base note that lingers on my skin sometimes after showering. I love that scent and I’ve often stood in the shower wondering if someone could just create a fragrance with that note. Well apparently Etro did just that, and it’s called ……

Sandalo by ETRO 1989

Sandalo Etro FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Rose, lemon, bitter orange
Heart: Sandalwood, geranium, rose
Base: Amber, musk, patchouli, cypress, vanilla

Of course, Sandalo isn’t quite as simple as comparing it to residual base notes makes it seem, but its overall effect gives me the same feeling. When I first apply it, and for about 15 minutes afterwards, there’s a slight petrol-like note, but after that, Sandalo is a pretty linear experience of gentle musky woods. Which is just fine with me, because it is pretty close to my ideal sandalwood fragrance. I get hints of geranium, and some rose, but this is primarily about base notes of sandalwood, powdery musk and some very smooth patchouli. The musk is soft and clean, but with no laundry-musk screech. The sandalwood note is not green, or creamy, or buttery and it doesn’t have a scratchy cedarwood kick. Instead it reminds me of the restrained, musky, dry scent found in some Japanese sandalwood incenses. If it had a colour it would be pale, ashy, grey-brown. I find it very centering and meditative.

Sandalo Etro Dead Calm Ann Baekken FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

It’s an entirely unisex scent, evocative of calm, collected individuals of any persuasion. It is not particularly strong, which makes it perfectly office-friendly. In fact, I wish it was a touch more forceful sometimes, though I think part of the issue is probably that my nose just gets used to the scent. That, I suppose, is the downside of a fragrance that feels as if it is mostly made up of base notes, and which melds so well with my skin. This factor makes it somewhat difficult to accurately judge longevity. Sometimes it seems to disappear only to reappear half an hour or so later. At a guess I’d say it lasts around 7 hours on my skin, but I suspect it is actually detectable to others who get close to me for some time after I think it has disappeared for good.

Sandalo Etro Mounted_on_Metaphors LothorioArtPhoto Stolen LothorioArt

I seem to have spent half this review talking about what Sandalo is not, as much as what it is, but somehow that seems appropriate for a scent that represents calm and space for me.

Posh Peasant says: Etro Sandalo launched in 1989 and is a beautiful oriental woody fragrance.  It’s not often mentioned but it’s one of the great sandalwood fragrances.

I was able to try Sandalo thanks to a little decant acquired from a fellow fragrance fanatic. I am very pleased to have found it and I’m currently lusting after a full bottle. I’m also inspired to get hold of some more samples from the Etro line. Portia has reviewed a few before here on AJP and they all sound interesting to me.

Sandalo Etro  Yoga-at-Wildflower-Hall-Shimla HillpostPhoto Stolen Hillpost

Further reading: Perfume Posse and Katie Puckrik Smells
Beauty Encounter has $75/50ml
Posh Peasant has samples starting at $3.50/ml

Do you have a favourite sandalwood-centric fragrance?

SarahK

Animalic – Skank. For Everyone Who Wants to be Bad

Hi there APJ Family & Friends,

I love trolling through the Surrender To Chance site. They have excellent Weekly Chance Specials, Vintage frags, Hard to find stuff and best of all, I can order a 2ml spray and get a true experience of a fragrance for a fraction of the price of a bottle, and it’s way easier to store 100 samples than 100 bottles too. Recently I was looking through and came across  this super set that read like EXACTLY the kind of set that I should possess, natch. So I went all out and ordered the 2ml Spray Set. It’s pricey but SOOO worth it.

Animalic – Skank. For Everyone Who Wants to be Bad- 11 Samples

Animalic - Skank Sample setAnimalic – Skank Sample Set

  1. Guerlain Jicky EDP – All skank covered in decency and fresh lavender.
  2. Jean Despres Bal a Versailles Parfum – The queen of skanks, there is NOTHING nice about this, and that’s a good thing.
  3. Miller Harris L’air de Rien – Scary Skank! Like scary spice, but a lot more fun.
  4. Montale Oud Cuir d’Arabie – Arabian skank with a lot of oud just for good measure.
  5. Narciso Rodriguez Musc for Her EDP Intense
  6. Nasomatto Narcotic Venus – Not as outwardly skanky, but deliciously, understated skank.
  7. Penhaligon Amaranthine – We used to refer to it as “amaranthigh” it is such a dirty, dirty girl.
  8. Rochas Femme – Made during The Depression, when women were hanging on to their sensuality by their fingernails, it is skanky perfection.
  9. Serge Lutens Musc Koublai Khan – Animalic musky skank.
  10. The Party in Manhattan – Completely dressed up skank, with a beautiful Dior ballgown.
  11. Worth Courtesan – Tropical skank, amazingly so!

From Surrender To Chance: Perfume should always play with naughty.  What is naughty? It’s referred to as “skank.”  First coined by March at Perfume Posse in January 2006, she refers to it as “Skank is not gracious, or nice, or even fundamentally pretty. The Skank is about sex, and only sex. It’s a rump-grinding, head-shaking invitation to a booty call, no matter how politely the scent’s been dressed up at the opening.”
This is the sex in perfume, and it’s been there even back in the days when the hems of dresses never got above the eyelet lace-ups of their Victorian boots.

So I have been having a wonderful time trying them all.I think my skin eats, or I have become immune, to the extremes of animalics. I love them and they smell great on my skin but where most people are coughing, tears streaming and running to the shower, I merely smell like a big cuddly teddy bear all warm and squishy. I have written about a few of these already, mostly quite early in the blog’s life, but it has been super fun revisiting and reminding myself how good they are, and to have even a sample size back in the collection. There are a few too that are FB in my collection already: MKK, Femme and Bal a Versailles. I also have a vintage Jicky Parfum so it’s great to meet it’s modern EdP sister.

My girl friend Natalie from Another Perfume Blog took one whiff of Courtesan by Worth and I knew she had to have it. You know the look, eyes glazed over, head thrown slightly back and nostrils flaring? There was that and more: positively fabulous viewing and at an outdoor lunch table in one of Sydney’s ritzier suburbs. I had to laugh, and give her the vial.

Surrender To Chance has the lot starting at $33/.5ml but I went all out and grabbed the $116/2ml spray set

Why did I spend so much? Well, 2ml will last me 4-10 wears depending on longevity and projection strength. That’s months of delicious spritzing and a different one every day for 3 weeks, not that I desperately need more choice to be honest. I also like that they are already in a spritz atomiser so no messing around with decanting into a spray to get the manufacturers intent. I think the extra is worth it for me. You may only want or need the .5ml to taste the frags, excellent. $33 is a wonderful deal for amazing frags that are a must try on your frag journey.

Love & hugs,
Portia xx

 

Songes by Isabelle Doyen for Annick Goutal 2005

Hoya Perfumistas!

Tonight while wandering around Facebook Fragrance Friends one of the people there, Julie, was talking about her first Songes by Annick Goutal experience. Being Autumn here in Sydney Songes was in the cupboard but I thought I’d grab it out and give myself a spritz, pretend it is a cool spring evening instead. WOW! It’s funny how you forget the magic held in a scent. I was instantly transported back to my very first spritzes of Songes and how amazing and beautiful I thought it was, and it is. Here is a repost of an earlier Songes piece just to remember it.

Songes by Isabelle Doyen for Annick Goutal 2005

Songes Annick Goutal FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Frangipani, tiare, jasmine sambac absolute, ylang-ylang, French vanilla

Here I sit in my office in a cloud of creamy vanilla white flowers. AH MAY ZING!!

Songes EdT was my first Annick Goutal FBW fragrance. When the sample arrived I loved it so much I sprayed it on all and sundry till it ran dry just so they could experience the enormous grand white floral opening. What a fragrance! Designed around a dusk ramble on Camille Goutal’s honeymoon and the frangipanis nighttime scent song of dreams.

The Annick Goutal website says: The twilight in Tahiti, transcending into a inspiring combination of frangipani and tiare flowers

Songes Annick Goutal Phetchaburi Province, Thailand WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

Did you know Songes means dreams? I think it is an interesting choice of a name for a fragrance built around the scent of frangipani at dusk. It opens so full and spectacularly, not dreamy at all. White flowers pumping out their glorious, decadent fragrance. White night flowers have something so special and glorious that whenever I put this voluptuous fragrance on I almost swoon with delight. A bold fragrance, with solid strength and sillage, unlike most AG perfumes Songes has good lasting power too at around 4 hours. Along with the flowers I get lovely inedible vanilla, almost amber-ish, and a soft incense note that I’ve never noticed before but this morning I was burning incense and here it is repeated. There is a very human element that comes and goes, like clean mouth breath bordering on lived in. The whole time I’ve been wearing this my mind keeps saying, “Oh, this is lovely, why don’t I wear this more often?” I will put it out on the desk again and give Songes more love, I have not worn it nearly as much as it deserves.

Songes Annick Goutal C P Wyatt "Ocean Of Dreams" Plum Leaves FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Further reading: The Perfume Shrine and NowSmellThis
FragranceShop has Songes EdT $57/100ml
Surrender To Chance has the EdT samples starting at $3/ml

I have enjoyed bringing you Songes again, do you have a favourite Annick Goutal fragrance? Which one and why?
Portia xx