Perfumed Streets

.

Post by Anne-Marie

.

Hi all,
What are the perfumes you notice on other people when you are out and about? Do you recognise specific perfumes, or just a generic ‘perfumey’ aura around your workplace and on the bus?

Perfumed Streets

TerreD'Hermes FragranticaFragrantica

My most memorable moment was in a hotel lift in Paris. I stepped into the empty lift and I could smell Terre d’Hermes so distinctly I could almost touch it. The wearer must have stepped out mere seconds before.

Queuing for coffee at a railway station in Paris I again seemed to catch Terre d’Hermes, but I couldn’t be sure. Railway stations are a cacophony of smells.

Chanel No 5 Parfum Chanel FragranticaFragrantica

I smell Chanel No 5 EDT a fair bit. Once I noticed another mother at a school concert sending clouds of it several rows forward and back. I was surprised that anyone could conjure that much sillage out of No 5. I never thought of it as a sillage monster. Later though  I worked with someone who had No 5 as her signature and it could be smelled EVERYWHERE she had been, or was yet to arrive. Outside her office, up and down the corridors, in the bathroom, in the carpark. Yeeesh!

youth-dew-estee-lauder-fragranticaFragrantica

Once I caught a whiff of something delicious on a woman as I walked past her in a department store. I wheeled back and followed her up the escalator, trying to figure out what the perfume was. This is the only time I have stalked anyone because of their perfume. By the time I got to the top I’d figured it out. It was Estée Lauder’s Youth Dew.

Fragrantica

Smelled Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche on an elderly lady I’m slightly acquainted with. She is a smart, beautifully dressed and fascinating woman and what she was talking about was so interesting I forgot to ask about her perfume. But it was certainly Rive Gauche and it suited her perfectly. I wish now that I had mentioned it because she would probably have had an interesting story to tell about it.

These experiences are relatively unusual for me. Terre d’Hermes, yes. That is so distinct and full of character that you cannot mistake it for anything else. But mostly when I smell perfume on someone I don’t recognise it. I just smell ‘perfume’: a pleasant (or not) floral, sweet, woody or sporty something-or-other.

perfumed-streets-busy_street_in_india-wikipediaWikiMedia

The market is jam packed with smell-alikes, after all, and most people don’t want to make much of a statement with fragrance. I know someone who has a wonderfully quirky style in clothes, but her perfume is Lancome’s La Vie Est Belle. Or at least I think it is; it’s a bit hard to tell when there are so many copies and derivatives in that style.

So – over to you? Are there stand-out perfumes in your world? Or does everyone smell of hotel shampoo these days?
Bye for now everyone, and keep spritzing!
Anne-Marie

HOLIDAYS!! Japan 2016: Photo Essay

.

Post by Portia

.

Hey Hey APJ,

Jin and I are in transit from Japan to South Korea. I was hoping to have the post written and organised long before this but, bloody hell, it has been non stop. We are having a ball and wish you all were here with us. 3 nights and 2 full days was a great taster for Jin and a lovely reminiscence for me. Sadly we didn’t get to see everyone on the list but next time we are going to make it a fortnight and travel around a bit.

HOLIDAYS!! Japan 2016: Photo Essay

japan-2016-1

Korean Air = Roomy & cheap. Staff are amazing and food yummy. NOW I want them to sponsor my ass.

japan-2016-2

Our first full day in Japan is a public holiday so we get to share the perfect autumn weather with millions of families. Tokyo remains surprisingly roomy. We love the day in temples, parks and galleries.

japan-2016-3

We particularly loved seeing a few Korean National Treasures stolen during Japanese occupation of Korea. Jin couldn’t help but be excited when one of the most famous historic buddhas was on display.

japan-2016-4

japan-2016-5

japan-2016-6

japan-2016-7

That night we were taken to Torikizoku, a famously modern young Japanese hang where booze and snacks are the order of the night. Loved it. Thanks Luke. We worked out that we’ve been friends around 27 years. Amazing.

japan-2016-8

japan-2016-9

Jin is basically on a gastro-tour. EVERYTHING from street food to hand created sushi, fast food and VERY slow food was on the menu. I think he tried about 20 new dishes, or ate authentic Japanese versions of old favourites. watching him discover new delights was like living with a perfect sunrise.

japan-2016-10

japan-2016-11

japan-2016-12

japan-2016-13

ijapan-2016-14

Of course we had to do the obligatory fragrance shopping. Isetan in Shinjuku is a fabulous department store with the most unbelievable Food Hall in the basement. We spent a small fortune buying Japanese delicacies for Jin’s family in South Korea.

Because we spent so much time & money down there I wasadamant that we check the fragrance section. It was well stocked with a large range of masstige and designer fragrances. From CREED and Le Labo to Annick Goutal and MFK we were thrilled at the choice. I ended up buying the Hermès Jardin of Monsieur Li gift set and extra body wash and a 30ml Samsara parfum which I have put off buying until now they have DCd the fabulous bottle. Having bought the EdT for my Mum many years ago it’s the Parfum I have long coveted and my little vintage 2ml is just a gasp away from empty.

japan-2016-15

japan-2016-16

japan-2016-17

From back in the mid 1990s a lovely girlfriend that used to come watch the shows and hang out in the clubs with us, Miharu, came into Shinjuku for dinner. It was a magical catch up and Jin was on his absolute most hilarious behaviour. We spent the night laughing, eating, wandering and catching up. So many wonderful memories and now a new set of Japan 2016 with Miharu.

japan-2016-18

japan-2016-19

OK, so we are now on the plane for South Korea to see Jin’s family. Loaded down with booze, sweets, money and love to pass on to his parents. This is the first time I get to meet his Grandma too. She was a very clever young woman and studied in Japan in her youth. Now she is suffering Alzheimers and Dementia we are hoping the Japanese sweets and savouries will give her a jolt into the past and present.

I hope you’ve enjoyed this very thin slice of Japan.
Where are you going for holidays next? Where would you go if money was no object?
Portia xx

Our Two Greyhounds Arrived

.

Post by Portia

.

Hi crew,

Yesterday we took ownership of two perfectly beautiful greyhound dogs. Both male, not quite two years old and neither had made it to the track yet or even been named. They were the slow pokes of their families and were heading for the rainbow bridge. I took Jin out to meet them and it was instant love.

Our Two Greyhounds Arrived

paris-and-jinx-in-their-new-home-oct-2016

I know this is a crap picture but this was the first one taken in their new home on our balcony.

The Black one on the left is mine and he is called Paris. On the right the Grey/Blue one is Jin’s and his name is Jinx. We did have other names picked but the dogs really didn’t seem to fit them so we went through our list of names till they perked up at one.

I have been wearing Madagascar Jasmine by Naomi Goodsir because the jasmine is in bloom in Sydney and I wanted in on that loveliness and Bulgari Man In Black because foggy woods are freaking YUMMY!

Sorry, I have to get back to cuddling my puppy.

Aren’t they gorgeous?

Portia xx

Queen Of Hearts by Steve DeMercado for Queen Latifah 2010

.

Post by Portia

.

Hi there Fragrance Family,

Strong women have always attracted me. My family was full of strong women, Mum’s nursing buddies are all strong women and I gravitate to that type of woman in my daily life too. Strong women have been strengthened by some of lifes shit but I think they have the steel inside even before the world forges them. Being strong doesn’t mean they are hard either, though they do have to be sometimes for self protection. Queen Latifah has always struck me as a strong woman, whenever I see her on TV, singing, acting, interviewing or just being her cool self I always want more. There is something completely captivating about her.

Queen Of Hearts by Queen Latifah 2010

Queen Of Hearts by Steve DeMercado

Queen of Hearts Queen Latifah FragranticaFragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, Green notes, Plum, Cinnamon, Citruses
Heart: Jasmine, Red fruits, White blossoms
Base: Amber, Musk, Patchouli, Vanilla bean, Frankincense

The first thing you notice is the fun bottle. Like a heart being pushed out of a nail tray. It fits well in my hand, has good heft and looks very swish with its turquoise-topped gold lid.

Citrus, jasmine and resins open up Queen of Hearts and the fruits are there in a waxy/radiant whoosh that feels warm, sensual and lavish. It’s hard to believe you can buy this baby for under $20 because it smells really good.

After the initial fireworks die down Queen of Hearts becomes a modern resinous patchouli sweetened by lingering fruits and breathy white flowers drizzled with caramel. Not a gourmand. Not edible. Smooth patchouli with the rest in harmonious background accord. This is no loud, in your face event, people don’t really notice your fragrance after an hour until you hug them, then it’s compliment time.

Queen Of Hearts by Queen Latifah Boswellia_sacra WikipediaWikipedia

The nearest fragrance I have in character to Queen of Hearts is Mona di Orio’s Eau Absolue. They are not dupes but the wonderful uplifting resinous patchouli vibe is similar.

Further reading: Perfume Posse (Yes, I wrote about it before in 2014)
FragranceNet has AU$20/100ml Before Coupon

Are you a fan of Queen Latifah? Have you tried her fragrances?
Portia xx

The Spirit of the CHANEL Fall-Winter 2016/17 Collection

.

Post by Portia

.

Hey there Fashion Lovers,

I love to watch the runway shows. This one is especially fun because CHANEL have recreated an Atelier for the parade. At the end Karl Lagerfeld even gathers four of the women that works for CHANEL and they take his walk of honour with him, very nice touch. Bravo KL.

I love the first video because it’s shot in the Palais Royale where Serge Lutens and Parfums de Rosine have their shops. Every time I see it I get a thrill of recognition. The second one shows quite a bit of how a garment is created on the model stand and then how all the work progresses painstakingly by hand. The third is the full runway show and quite a lot of it is hideous this season but the rare jewels are worth waiting for.

All the CHANEL perfume sales go towards keeping these ridiculously extravagant fashion shows alive. No wonder they keep upping the prices.

I hope you enjoy,
Portia xx

The Spirit of the CHANEL Fall-Winter 2016/17 Collection

Making-of the Fall-Winter 2016/17 Haute Couture CHANEL Collection

Fall-Winter 2016/17 Haute Couture CHANEL Show

What Else Do You Collect?

.

Post by Portia

.

Hello Fragrance Family,

I was looking around my house the other day and it struck me that collecting fragrance wasn’t my only “thing”. So it got me wondering about your other collections.

What Else Do You Collect?

I have a few.

morning Star Royal Doulton Portia 2016

Royal Doulton: Morning Star

Once upon a time back in the 1960s my Mum and Dad got married. They chose the Royal Doulton pattern Morning Star to be their “For Good” set of china. People were able to buy one or a few pieces for them from a Wedding Gift Registry. So for their wedding a beautiful 6 place set was bought with Mains plate, Salad plate, Bread plate, Bowl, Cup & Saucer. They also got a Vegetable Tureen, Tea & Coffee pots, Creamer, Milk, Sugar & Gravy Boat. We used it for birthdays, Christmas, congratulations and every other event in our household. After Mum and Dad died I was left with a pristine 6 place set but I tend to entertain on a larger scale than they did so over the next 10 years I grew the set to 15 seater with some extras of some. I also added Cream Soup bowls & saucers, Fruit bowls, 3 x Vegetable and 3 x Main Tureens, 2 x Platters, a Baking Dish, extra Tea & Coffee pots, Milk, Sugar and a bunch of curios as they come up on eBay. We now use this set as our every day set and each time I eat off a plate or make a pot of tea Mum and Dad are there with me. It’s like a daily hug and reminder of some of the super good times we spent together as a family.

Soaps Jan 2016 #1

Bath Products

I’ve talked about this before with you all. There is a special box that holds almost all my Bath Oils, Shower Gels, Bubble Bath and Soaps. It’s filled with modern, vintage, discontinued and current. From Amouage to Tom Ford, Caron to Olympic Orchids, Boucheron to Yves Saint Laurent and everything in between. There are vintage boxed soap & fragrance sets of Givenchy Le De, Hermès Amazone and Caleche, CHANEL No 5 & 19, Opium by YSL and many others. Soaps come in singles too like the Guerlain Mitsouko & Shalimar, Saipua, L’Occitane, Mysore Sandal Soap, Farmer’s Daughters Egg White Soap and loads of single bars found around the world. Shower Gels from Amouage, LUSH, Penhaligon’s, Korres, Lolita Lempicka, B&BW, Molton Brown, Jo Malone and others all roped in as bubble Bath (my favourite).

Tea Collection Portia 2016

Tea

Yes, everywhere I travel if there is some local tea for sale I buy it. Particularly in India and the UK. Fortnum & Mason is now available in Australia which has dimmed it fabulousness somewhat but they still taste yum. Having spent time in India’s Kerala and Himachal Pridesh tea growing areas and doing some estate visits, through the production processes and then getting to sample some of the teas I also have a bunch from them. South Korea also has a tea farming culture, we went through the Jeju Island area and I have been through another one but can’t remember where. Not all of South Koreas teas are green or black they also do chrysanthemum teas and a slew of others that are interesting and delicious, once you get used to how different they are. I also have Chinese flowers that unfurl in the tea pot, Chinese loose leaf green, white tea from a few different places now and some red tea.

There are also a couple of other collections around here but……. next time.

So, what do you collect? Come on, ‘Fess up. You know I love to read your stories too.
Portia xx

 

Mon Patchouly by Ramon Monegal 2009

.

Post by Portia

.

Hey there Fragrant Friends,

Ramon Monegal’s line needs little selling for me. His general fragrant aesthetic works very well for me. The bottles are incredibly gorgeous to look at and hefty, the ink well design making them look both ultra modern and vintage. Though they are not the easiest to spritz yourself with but never mind when something looks this good we can work around the problems.

When Ramon Monegal first came to the world’s attention they arrived having already been a famous Spanish elite fragrance house for years. Which meant that they already had a huge back catalogue that they put on the market all at once. So much gets missed when this happens and is part of the problem with insta-lines, one huge rush of publicity and then nothing. I tried them all in passing and talked about the couple that took my attention at the start but the whole line seemed incredibly daunting. Already I have Impossible Iris and Dubai Next To Me in my collection and wish for Umbra, Ambre de Luna and Lovely Day.

Found this sample while trolling through one of my sample bags and it’s been getting a bit of skin time around here. Before it runs dry I thought I could share my enjoyment with you….

Mon Patchouly by Ramon Monegal 2009

Mon Patchouly Ramon Monegal FragranticaFragrantica

Ramon Monegal gives these featured accords:
Indonesian patchouli, Yugoslavian oak moss absolute, Somalian frankincense, geranium bourbon, Egyptian jasmine absolute, amber

Mon Patchouli opens with a cool, wet, lightly spicy geranium and sheer patchouli. It’s cool and refined speaking of elegant restaurants rather than the earthy beatnik and headshot. My first thought is that Ramon Monegal has created a sci-fi, 21st century patchouli. There are still soft remnants of when patchouli was the preferred oil of hippies but in an almost aquatic vein. It’s like smelling the joyful freshness of petrichor and someone walking by under their umbrella wearing a modern rose/patchouli fragrance.

As Mon Patchouli warms into my skin it becomes more earthy and is warmed by the amber, but it never really heats up because the cool incense, now rosy geranium and jasmines keep it aloof and restrained. I’m not really a patchouli soliflor wearer, it seems that my choices almost always have it as a backing note. My only real comparisons are DIOR’s Patchouli Imperial and patchouli oil, both of which are so much more intense and challenging than Mon Patchouli. Here the fragrance is muted and the house I think it smells like Mon Patchouli’s from is CHANEL. It could easily sit in line with the Les Exclusif range, the blending feels plush and even with no sharp or spiky extraneous additions.

Mon Patchouly Ramon MonegalRamon Monegal

Mon Patchouli remains pretty linear from the heart onwards adding only a slight furriness. Not a huge perfume but you will be noticeable because it is so unlike what is currently being worn by the masses. Longevity is excellent and projection moderate to low.

From LuckyScentMon Patchouly perfectly represents the free-spirited essence of exotic patchouli, the ultimate emblem of “Flower Power.” Blended with vanilla, nutmeg, and amber, this archetypal scent puts down its daisy chain and picks up a different white flower – one that’s far more serious and sensual. This gorgeous jasmine note creates a beautiful balance with the earthy patchouli and amber – a stunning contrast that keeps it very unique and definitely grown-up. Mon Patchouly is a statement of identity. Pure Ibiza in its Mediterranean freshness and singularity.

Further reading: Non Blonde and Scented Hound
LuckyScent has $185/50ml + Samples
First In Fragrance has €145/50ml + Samples

Do you have a favourite Ramon Monegal fragrance? Or a fave Patchouli I should try?
Portia xx

What’s Your SOTD?

.

Post by Portia

.

Heya Crew,

Anne-Marie is snowed under at work and feeling less than 100% so I’m filling for her today. Fingers crossed for her triumphal return in a fortnight.  We love you Anne-Marie. XX

Anne-Marie, Scott, Portia 18.5.2016 DIORAnne-Marie, Scott & Portia at DIOR, Sydney

Anne-Marie, Scott, Portia 18.5.2016 David JonesAnne-Marie, Scott & Portia at David Jones, Sydney

What’s Your SOTD?

SOTD, SOTE, SOTM, SOTBed???? This acronym had me completely baffled when I first hit the online scent world. It is used everywhere from blogs to Facebook pages and has now become so much part of the fragrance communities conversation that I forget at one point it was meaningless to me.

S.O.T.D. = Scent Of The Day

S.O.T.E. = Scent Of The Evening

S.O.T.M. = Scent Of The Morning

S.O.T.Bed. = Scent Of The Bed

So though Anne-Marie is not with us today I know she will be reading all our replies avidly so let’s include her by telling her exactly what fragrance we are wearing and which acronym applies.

Agent Provocateur Agent Provocateur FragranticaFragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Coriander, Saffron
Heart: Gardenia, Jasmine, Magnolia, Rose, Ylang-ylang
Base: Amber, Musk, Vetiver

So as this post goes live it is S.O.T.E. for me, I have finished work, taken my drag and makeup off and have spritzed over my work scent for tonight which was Mohur by Neela Vermeire Creations with the original Agent Provocateur rose/saffron/woods in the pink egg (I really need to review this baby, it’s becoming a firm favourite. So I thought it was a patchouli frag HA HA HA!) If I was leaving a comment this is how it would look. SOT? acronym, Fragrance, Brief description.

SOTE: Agent Provocateur: Rose/saffron/woods bomb in the pink egg that smells like it has modern patchouli in it to me. Love how this seems to shimmer around me. I imagine people’s noses catching my sillage as I walk past and them looking up from whatever they’re doing to see who smells so good.

So please get on board and drop your Scent Of The Whatever into the comments.

Get work sorted and well Anne-Marie
Portia XXX

Mandarine by Olivia Giacometti for L`Artisan Perfumer 2006

.

Post by Portia

.

Hello Fragrant Friends,

I’ve had this 5ml decant of Mandarine for years. It has about 1ml left in the bottom so I thought I would use it up this week. When the decant first arrived I used it a lot but when it got down to nearly nothing I thought it should be kept for reference purposes. So when I went to grab it and realising this is my last wear from the decant I began looking for a bottle but BUMMER, D/C. Thank goodness for FragranceNet!

I think I’ve told parts of this story before but it bears repeating, mandarines are special to me for a few reasons. They used to be a perfect play lunch in primary school and became a lunchbox fave through high school too. Then when in India and the whole culture shock drama plays out if I’m lucky enough to be there at mandarine time they are a welcome respite from Indian food and Varun used to go to extraordinary lengths to get them for me. Lastly and most recently Jin loves mandarines, he has a favourite type that comes with a sticker and he looks all winter and ONLY buys these. They are sweet and nearly seedless and come easily away from the rind. Mandarines and their scent have such joyful connotations for me so a fragrance based on them was bound to hit my sweet spot.

Mandarine by L`Artisan Perfumer 2006

Mandarine by Olivia Giacometti

Mandarine L`Artisan Parfumeur FragranticaFragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Green mandarin, Ginger
Heart: Frangipani, Yellow mandarin
Base: Orange, Red mandarin, White cedar

Mandarine is simple, fresh, bright and sparkling. It has a soft pithy fleshiness that works beautifully against the juicy mandarine ripeness. Though I miss most of the ginger it does feel like there are some aldehydes lifting and gently expanding the fragrance. The frangipani reads like of coconut undercurrent my skin too but I am pretty sure it is meant to be the frangipani.

What I am surprised about is that this isn’t a bigger hit. L’Artisan is pretty much a general public fragrance house nowadays and Mandarine seems like it would be very popular as a spritz and go refresher fragrance, it has a lovely holiday vibe without feeling like the now ubiquitous salty jasmine. Not mentioned in the notes but I think there are a fair number of laundry musks in the base too, which seem to be highly sought after in the non perfumista arena.

Mandarine L`Artisan Parfumeur Mandarines WikipediaWikiPedia

Who would wear this? Well, me for one. Other than that I could see it being a really easy wear spring/summer go to or holiday fragrance. After an hour it does calm considerably so it would be very safe for work. Maybe Mandarine is just a bit too much like laundry softener or shampoo for the perfumistas but perfect for a gateway fragrance, or even a first step from the celebuscents. Mandarine is a little like a Guerlain Aqua Allegoria fragrance, maybe too close?

Further reading: Perfume Shrine and Bois de Jasmin
FragranceNet has $71/100ml before Coupon SOLD OUT
Sephora Australia has AUD$145/100ml FREE Delivery

Do you know or love Mandarine? I’d really like to hear from you if you do, how do you wear it?
Portia xx

Mon Paris – Yves Saint Laurent: Video

.

Post by Portia

.

Hi there APJ,

Something new from YSL! Once upon a time that would be the cue for great rejoicing and whispers of intrigue. Now the only way I know about it is because they have released their ad and it came up on my YouTube.

They are selling it as a modern chypre and while I applaud their audacity still I think I will reserve judgement till I can get my nose on some.

Mon Paris by Yves Saint Laurent 2016

Mon Paris by Olivier Cresp, Harry Fremont and Dora Baghriche-Arnaud

Mon Paris Yves Saint Laurent FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Calabria bergamot, strawberry, raspberry, pear
Heart: Datura flower, peony, Chinese and Sambac jasmine, orange blossom.
Base: White musk (three types of it), ambroxan, patchouli (Indonesia and Guatemala)

Please enjoy the video. I think it’s gorgeous. What do you think?
Portia xx

Mon Paris – Yves Saint Laurent