A ‘Mix Tape’ from Luca Turin!

April 5, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 23 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

Hello Gorgeous APJ-ers!

It’s been an eventful month in my little world and thus I have plenty of potential fragrant stories wafting around inside my head. I’ve begun a few, though I realized they were all paving a path to LUCA TURIN! Scent critic and olfactive/olfactory know-it(-almost)-all! The more I learn of this man and his work the more I am in awe. I mean lets start with his office: I hear next to his desk is a shiny GCMS machine that one could only dream of having!! He often references in his articles, running this and that through to compare and check on chemical compositions, changes between vintages etc. (sigh)

Amazon

Recently I posted about Luca Turin’s book ‘FOLIO Columns 2003-2014’ The next day I got a thank you message from a “Luca Turin.” Of course immediately I thought it was someone merely posing as him! After a few cryptic messages that he answered correctly I realized it was THE REAL HIM!!

Jeepers. My mind went into overdrive plucking up courage to perhaps ask for a little interview…one with a twist. Something interesting for someone I imagined easily bored by inane questions.

A ‘Mix Tape’ from Luca Turin!

As our correspondence continued and I trawled slowly through his book I observed his passion for fragrance is parallel to a love of classical music. Being more of an…I guess predominantly… “rock chick’ I have a limited understanding of classical music, save for dusty old Bach numbers in the back of my head from school aged piano and clarinet lessons and Pachelbel’s Canon (which you can’t avoid if you’ve ever worked in the Spa industry). So the idea came to me to ask the great Luca Turin for A MIX TAPE!! My idea was for him to make me a list of his favorite tunes and then match fragrances to them and email them through. Simple!

Luca wrote back with a link to a similar style broadcast he did for Radio BBC 3’s Saturday Classics:

Listen here

As it all goes by very quickly, here is the list of both music and fragrances for you to read along too:

Luca Turin’s Fragrance and Music Matches

• Diorama (Edmond Roudnitska for Dior 1949): Mouret’s Rondeau
• Cristalle (Henri Robert for Chanel 1974): Martinu’s Concerto for flute, violin and chamber orchestra Mvt 1
• Apres L’Ondee (Jacques Guerlain 1906): Debussy’s Images ‘Reflet dans l’eau’ and ‘Et la lune descend sur le temple qui fut’
• Emeraude (Francois Coty 1921): Brahms String Sextet no. 1 in B flat major Op.18 Mvt 1
• Habanita (Molinard 1921): Enrique Santos Discépolo Esta Noche Me Emborracho
• Shaïna (Atelier Delteil release date unknown): Howard Skempton’s Lento
• Nombre Noir (Jean-Yves Leroy for Shiseido 1982): Scriabin’s Prelude in B-flat Major
• Chamade (Paul Guerlain 1969): Barber’s Violin Concerto Opus 14
• Vivre (Molyneux 1971): Vishal-Shekhar’s ‘Zehnaseeb’ from the Bollywood musical Hasee Toh Phasee
• New York (Patricia de Nicolai 1989): Ralph Towner’s Blue Sun
• Vetiver (Jean-Paul Guerlain 1961): Shostakovich’s String Quartet no. 10 in A flat major Op.118 – 1st mvt
• Chinatown (Aurelien Guichard for Bond No 9 2005): Egberto Gismonti’s Lôro
• Tanismal (Luca’s own creation – flexitral molecule 2008): Brahms Piano Concerto no. 2 in B flat major Op.83 – 4th mvt

HOW FREAKING FABULOUS IS THAT?!!

Book Depository

You can check also out Luca Turin’s new blog Perfumes I Love

Let me know your thoughts? Did you enjoy? Agree? Have you any songs and fragrances that seem to be a perfect match?

XX Until next time! Ainslie XX

Jasmin Rouge GIVEAWAY WINNERS

March 31, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom

Post by Portia

Hey there APJ,

SHIT!! I forgot to draw this. Here we go. Good luck everyone.

Portia xx

Jasmin Rouge GIVEAWAY WINNERS

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, mandarin, cinnamon, ginger, cardamom, black & white pepper
Heart: Sambac jasmine, broom, neroli, ylang-ylang, clary sage
Base: Mexican vanilla, labdanum, leather, wood, amber notes

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 2 winners who will receive:
1 x 2ml decant of Jasmin Rouge by Tom Ford
P&H Worldwide

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Sunday 20th March 2016 10pm Australian EST
Winners were chosen by random.org

WILLA

ANNA MARIA

CONGRATULATIONS!!! The winner will have till Monday 4th April 2016 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Beauty = Contouring: AAARGGHHH!

March 27, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 12 Comments

Post by AF Beauty

If you go anywhere near Pinterest it is easy to get caught up in make up trends which, of course, look pathetically easy. They show a few before and after pictures, nothing looks that difficult and quite probably you’ll find yourself in the nearest beauty store looking for the next gizmo that you’ve seen in an effort to replicate this easy fix on your face.

Cue contouring.

Contouring. Scared and Hopeless? (i.e. me)

YouTube

I had seen this on Pinterest, the before and after pictures were impressive, it was just a little bit of powder here and there; et voila!

Priceline

I had originally only seen this done with powder and this Australis palette was one of the ones recommended in the Australian market. I bought a slanted contouring brush, cracked open the palette, dipped and swiped across my face. THE HORROR!!! I’d completely underestimated how pigmented the powder is and I looked like I’d swiped my face in dirt!! No question though, this is my (lack of) skill, not the palette!

Dutifully, I went back to Pinterest, tried to give it another go, several times and then eventually just gave up and accepted my complete ineptitude.

Fast forward 12 months – maybe more. A group I belong to on Facebook and there’s a thread about contouring. I always read these things in a vague hope of finding some miracle answer. This one has a video, I often can’t be bothered to watch the videos, but I did, and I’m so glad I did!! Here’s the link for anyone interested – else skip to my experience…

Illamasqua

The video recommends a Illamasqua Shadow Contour and a MAC highlight. I can’t find the exact colour on the MAC website, sorry.

MakeUpAlley

I dutifully toddled off to Myer to look at both products but the Illamasqua contour didn’t appeal, so I went off to find an alternative. I knew by then I wanted a cream rather than a powder – I was already looking at MAC, for the highlighter but they had no obvious contour product. Wandering around the store I went and tried the Clinique and tried the Sculpting Contour Stick which actually worked surprisingly well. So I bought the Clinique stick and the MAC highlighter and skipped home to try the daytime contouring look. I basically followed the instructions in the video and….. IT WORKED!!!

I have to admit, I am still working on the different locations of shadow and highlighter and trying different combos. It is easy to start applying and think that your face just looks like a dirty mess – but persist!!! Don’t get caught up in the small detail on your face, it’s the bigger picture, how your whole face looks that’s important.

I used a foundation brush to apply the bronzer the first time but since travelling I’ve continued with just some fingers to guide the application for both bronzer and highlighter.

I have to say, I’ve really converted to this look and now feel a little ‘underdone’ when not applied some contour to my face. It has been a real turnaround.

Have any of you tried contouring? How have you gotten on? What about other make up disasters? Any that have come good eventually?

An Evening with Portia Turbo: Perfume Lovers London

March 24, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 38 Comments

Post by Tara

Hey APJ!
I’m guesting here today from A Bottled Rose to report on a very special occasion – Portia Turbo hosting Perfume Lovers London! The theme for the event was “Great Women” and the following should give you an idea of how it went. Just imagine Portia’s words with a good smattering of hilarious expletives.
So take your seats because here we go…

Perfume Lovers London

An Evening with Portia Turbo

28th January 2016

Portia: This the pinnacle of my fragrance experience, presenting in a chapel. I feel like “Santa Portia of the Fragrances”. The idea is to take 12 woman who were of import to the world and talk about the fragrances I’d put with them.

Portia then gave everyone a slip of coloured paper with one of the women’s names on it.

WikiMedia

Cleopatra VII (69-31 BC)
Ubar by Amouage (1995)
Notes: Litsea cubeba, Mandarin, Orange, Violet leaf, Freesia, Jasmine, Lily-of-the-valley, Orange blossom, Rosewood, Tuberose, Ylang-ylang, Copaiva balsam, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Vetiver, Amber

Portia: Apparently Cleopatra had a face like a foot but a beautiful body and awesome personality.
Ubar has such power but is lilting underneath. Ubar is what I imagine they’d have embalmed her in. It’s a heavenly scent, a beautiful bouquet of flowers.
Who else had Cleopatra and what perfume did you think of?

Audience member: I immediately thought of Poison.
Val the Cookie Queen: Onda Extrait (Vero Profumo)

Wikipedia

Saint Joan of Arc (1412-30)
Celtic Fire by Union (2012)
Notes: Oak, Fir balsam, Pine needle, Marmite™ , Birch tar, Sweet gale

Portia: Just for fun I thought we’d pair Joan with Celtic Fire (much laughter). I don’t think it really smells of Marmite.
Lila (Event organiser): Can I just say…
Portia: When it’s your evening you can say what you like (Laughter)
Lila: I was just going to say the perfumer gave Grant from Basenotes a little of the Marmite accord because he belongs to this Marmite secret society.
Portia: {With comic sarcasm} That is a lovely story. Thank-you.

Wikimedia

Catherine the Great (1729-96)
Ambre Russe by Parfums d’Empire (2005)
Notes: Champagne, Vodka, Ambergris, Coriander, Cumin, Tea, Cinnamon, Leather, Vanilla, Frankincense

Portia: Catherine the Great was truly forward-thinking and progressive. Ambre Russe smells to me what I imagine a Russian sitting room would smell like. I think when you wear it you feel like aristocracy – well obviously I do.

Wikipedia

Florence Nightingale (1820-1921)
Sharp by Andrea Maack (2010)
Notes: White musk, Orange blossom, Vanilla

Portia: Being in England I thought I’d pick someone particularly English. I’ve chosen Sharp. It starts medicinal but ends up an incredibly warm fragrance. What did anyone else pick?

Audience member: White Linen, Estee Lauder.

Wikipedia

Tz’u Hsi (1835-1908)
Opium by YSL (1977)
Notes: Bergamot, Clove, Jasmine, Coriander, Laurel, Mandarin, Pepper, Plum, Citruses, Orris root, Lily-of-the-valley, Carnation, Patchouli, Peach, Rose, Sandalwood, Cinnamon, Amber, Benzoin, Coconut, Musk, Myrrh, Opoponax, Sandalwood, Tolu balsam, Vanilla, Vetiver, Frankincense, Cedar, Cistus

Portia: I call her Suzy. I’ve chosen Opium by YSL and we have some of the Parfum from the last century. Back then it was a kitchen sink fragrance – they threw everything into it. It lasts eternally on a scarf.

Wikipedia

Eleanor Roosevelt (1884-1962)
Rose sur Reuse by SOIVOHLE (2012)
Notes: Tuberose, Red rose, Red berries, Parma violet, Jasmine, Lily, Lilac, Orchid, Oakmoss, Vanilla, Woods, Musk

Portia: Eleanor really helped to create America so I thought I’d pick an American perfumer, Liz Zom of SOIVOHLE. Rose sur Reuse is a rose and tuberose fragrance.

Vanessa of Bonkers About Perfume: I thought of Private Collection, Estee Lauder.

Flickr

Katharine Hepburn (1907-2003)
Gentlewoman by Juliette Has a Gun (2015)
Notes: Bergamot, Neroli, Almond, Woody musk, Orange blossom

Portia: When I was a kid the women ran everything so I dreamt that when I grew up I’d be like Katharine Hepburn. Clearly I have her poise. I’ve chosen Gentlewoman by Juliette Has A Gun. It smells like a men’s cologne on a beautiful woman. I know some perfumistas need to be challenged every time they breathe in, but this is just really good. Any other suggestions?

Audience members: “Jicky” “Eau Sauvage as it’s so fresh” “Chanel No.5”

YouTube

Rosa Parks (1913-2005)
Ashoka by Neela Vermeire Creations (2013)
Notes: Fig leaf, Leather, Lotus, Mimosa, Fig milk, Osmanthus, Rose, Water hyacinth, Vetiver, Storax, Frankincense, Sandalwood, Myrrh, Tonka bean, Fir balsam

Portia: I’ve chosen Ashoka because although Rosa Parks was prominent in the civil rights movement, she looks like she had a softness about her. Ashoka starts strong and strident but ends up being a creamy figgy vanilla.

Wikipedia

Elizabeth Taylor (1932-2011)
Byzance by Rochas (1987)
Notes: Aldehydes, Basil, Carnation, Spices, Green notes, Cardamom, Mandarin, Lemon, Citruses, Aniseed, Orris root, Jasmine, Lily-of-the-valley, Rose, Tuberose, Ylang-ylang, Amber, Heliotrope, Musk, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Cedar

Portia: What a heartbreaker she was. I’ve chosen a discontinued gem – Byzance by Rochas. It smells so fabulous on skin that I’m putting some on and walking my fat arse up and down the aisle.
Portia proceeds to windmill her arms through the audience exclaiming “I AM sillage!”

Wikipedia

Sylvia Earle (1935- )
Beyond Paradise by Estee Lauder (2003)
Notes: Bergamot, Blue hyacinth, Jabuticaba, Orange blossom, Philodendron, Jasmine, Italian honeysuckle, Orchid, Mahonia , Ambrette seed, Broad-leaved paperbark, Natal plum blossom, Zebrano wood

Portia: I’ve chosen Beyond Paradise for oceanographer Sylvia Earle because it’s American, a beautiful fragrance and it used to come in a bottle the shades of the sea. They’ve taken some of the breathy jasmine out of the current version.

Audience member: I thought of Lauren or Aliage by Estee Lauder because they’re outdoorsy.

Portia: I also considered Womanity.

Wikipedia

Oprah Winfrey (1954-)
M7 by Yves Saint Laurent
Notes: Bergamot, Mandarin, Rosemary Heart: Oud, Vetiver, Mandragora, Amber, Musk

Portia: Oprah is a woman who has changed the face of the world. M7 was the first oud in mainstream perfumery and it has a real smoothness. The oud and vetiver gives it a kind of petrol-y greenness. It’s fabulous but weird. No wonder it never made any money. Can you still get it?

Nick Gilbert: It’s been relaunched as M7 Oud Absolu.

Portia: Any other suggestions for Oprah?

Audience member: Ambre Sultan (Serge Lutens).

Government.ru

Angela Merkel (1954-)
Black Saffron by Byredo (2012)
Notes: Honey pomelo, Saffron, Juniper berry, Leather, Rose, Black violet, Blond woods, Raspberry, Vetiver

Portia: Black Saffron is sheer and radiant but tough. It smells of petrichor – rain hitting hot tar. I think Angela is tough but has a sweetness.

Well, it’s been amazing to see you all and so many happy faces! (Huge applause)

Val (Cookie Queen), Grant (Basenotes), Lila (Perfume Lovers London),
Antonio Gardoni (Bogue Profumo), Portia Turbo (APJ)

Hope you enjoyed this taster of the Portia Turbo experience. We were all still buzzing long after the event was over. It was such a thrill.
Let me know in the comments if you have any fragrant suggestions for these great women.
Tara xxx

(Ed: Go visit A Bottled Rose)

Ainslie Walker Scents Alexi Freeman at MONA

March 23, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 12 Comments

Post by Portia

Hey crew,

Our very own Ainslie Walker is making her way in the big world of fragrancing events and this is set to be the biggest yet. As one of our APJ Contributors (and my buddy) we are incredibly proud of her achievements to date and wish her another major popular and critical success. Hopefully we will get a post event story from Ainslie because it’s so hush-hush that I’ve only now been allowed to tell you. Stay tuned.

Here is a short interview with Ainslie, I wanted the details.

Good Luck Ainslie, couldn’t be prouder of you.
Portia xx

ALEXI FREEMAN WHITE NOISE

TRANS-SEASONAL 2016 COLLECTION LAUNCH AT MONA

What is it you are scenting?
The runway/catwalk of a fashion show for the launch of Australian designer Alexi Freeman’s latest collection which is set on a cliff top on the rooftop of the Tasmanian MONA museum, so completely outdoors in the elements and interacting with an art piece situated there.

How did they find you to do the job?
Alexi and I went through my fragrance portfolio 2 years ago in Melbourne and he kept me in mind for future reference. When he was asked to launch his collection at MONA he saw this as a great opportunity to collaborate.

How do you go about creating a scent for someone elses vision?
Initially Alexi wanted something very natural based around Eucalyptus, in keeping with the natural beauty of Tasmania, leaving things quite open for me to experiment. However as the collection evolved and I understood it further we talked about night time/dark/twilight and wanted to play with dark and light and play of moonlight/ultraviolet light onto white fabrics/flowers. So I went from creating a very dark scent to a much lighter scent, based on materials Alexi is using. Billowing white fabrics, leather etc.

How is the scent being released in the air?
I am using a few different sized scent diffusion machines…plus the natural flow of air created by the models passing by. if weather is wild I have a few other options up my sleeve! Also I have created scented candles in dark pots that look like the Tasmanian night sky for people to purchase as part of the collection which will be sold at MOMA (Mona market) and then on both Alexi and my websites

What is the major note and why?
Peony: to represent the white fabrics reflecting ultraviolet lights
White leather: in the collection
Musks: representing wet bitumen /cement: which glitters at night around MONA
Patchouli and white woods: earthy/woody: natural component
Fruit note: to represent the MONA vineyard surrounding MONA

NEWS: Michael Edwards’ Fragrances of the World 2016

March 22, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 6 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

To their absolute credit, Michael Edwards, ‘the perfume experts expert’ and his Fragrances of the World team have once again produced the industries only comprehensive, accurate and impartial fragrance classification annual.

Luca Turin accurately states: it is “…a map, the only one in existence, which lets everyone, beginner or pro, set out into the mysterious world of perfume”

Michael Edwards’ Fragrances of the World 2016

32nd Edition: April release

The small team undertakes an immense workload to stay abreast of the wave…or should I say tsunami of global fragrances launched each year. In 2014, 1768 new fragrances were launched and in 2015 there were 2044 – the first time more than 2000 have occurred over any 12 month period. To illuminate you a little into their workday, a minimum of 6 fragrances per day require evaluation, 8 if weekends are excluded and holidays ignored! Considering the rigorous classification methods employed by Michael and the team – evaluating every new fragrance and crosschecking the results with the brands and the perfumers to ensure accuracy – you have to wonder if they ever sleep?!

For this edition, a change in design, binding and layout was necessary to accommodate the sheer quantity of fragrances now showcased between the covers. Michael explains the eruption of new artisan fragrances, more than 800 compared to some 500 in 2014 and the increase in “collections, collections and more collections” as the reason for the steep rise in numbers.

Presented in both French and English, this year’s data is showcased alongside captivating imagery of raw perfume ingredients. The work of internationally acclaimed Australian floral artist Saskia Havekes of Grandiflora. The images define each family and illustrate the raw emotion and textures of the fragrance groups.

A forward by Luca Turin, renowned fragrance critic and commentator, impresses the magnitude of Michael’s work labeling him ‘the Linnaeus of perfume’ and describing Fragrances of the World ® as ‘’the only comprehensive, historically accurate, factually reliable and artistically consistent database of fragrance in existence.’

Michael is indeed the industry’s only impartial and independent authority. He makes no charge for listing or classifying new fragrances, declining both advertising and sponsorship. This year sees feminine, masculine and shared (unisex) fragrances merged into one consolidated index, with gender colour coded. Discontinued fragrances now are separately indexed for easier referencing.

Known fondly as ‘the fragrance bible,’ each edition is a collector’s item, keepsake, object of desire and THE industry’s go-to, exhaustive, encyclopedic reference. A masterpiece. Irreplaceable to the industry and to this day, unmatched. Each volume is an historic capsule of this moment in time, in fragrance, and all that has lead up to it.

“I use his book and database practically every day, and never cease to be amazed at the connections it allows me to make, the insights it provides, the “aha!” moments it springs on me. “ Luca Turin

Available from www.fragrancesoftheworld.com from April. WE NEED THIS EDITION, I can assure you.

Have you ever owned/seen/used a copy? Tell me some of your “aha!” moments.

Xx Ainslie

Venice 2016: Photo Essay

March 10, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 32 Comments

Post by Portia

Venice! One of my favourite cities in the world. In 2016 we were sensible enough to have 2 of our girlfriends with us, Anna-Maria and Tara. Jin was under the weather and spent quite a bit of time sick in bed. The girls & I managed to squeeze in SO MUCH of the touristy stuff and also some Venetian secrets. Weirdly I was so busy that I took hardly any scenery shots, sorry. It was super fun and it made me love Venice even more…

Venice 2016: Photo Essay

We are ARRIVED!! Hello Venice

Jin has a fave restaurant. we had to eat there on our first night. It was delicious.

In the VERY squishy lift at our hotel

Hotel bathroom products. POSH!

St Marks Square in the Doge’s palace colonnades

As evening falls we make our way to a cafe.

Next day we go sightseeing

High Tea in a swanky hotel. Thanks Anna Maria

Doge’s Palace Tour

Iconography

St Marks Square

Water Bus

Dinner on the canal in the shadow of the Ponte de Rialto

On Murano Island. St Tara of the tired legs

Buying Murano Glassware

Visiting Peggy Guggenheim. Managed to make all of us look shit in this shot except Jin,
who was sick as a dog and really did look like shit.

Harry’s Bar, where the cool kids go. We sat at the bar and weere entertained by the barman

Tara leaving us.

Venice'16 #28 YAY!

Realising that we missed Tara after 5 minutes and had nothing nice to say to each other

Even Venice was beautifully sad she had gone

On our way to Florence!

Taormine by Yann Vasnier for Keiko Mecheri 2010

March 9, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 18 Comments

Post by Portia

Hi there Fragrance Family,

It’s still high summer here in Sydney, 7am and already a humid 22C/72F. We have a ceiling fan in the bedroom and even under that I found it sweaty. So I jumped out of bed (let’s face it, no use lying there grumbling and I know myself well enough to know that there will be no sleep till this afternoons nana nap) and wandered my perfume library looking for a spritz of solace. I was tempted by Amouage Lyric Man, DIOR New Look 1947, JHaG Anyway, Byredo Black Saffron and Cacharel Liberté yet none of them were exactly what I was looking for. Then my eyes alighted upon the Keiko Mecheri boxes, I have two that are summer all over for me Un Jour d’Ete and the one I chose…

Taormine by Keiko Mecheri 2010

Taormine by Yann Vasnier

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Sicilian petitgrain, Calabrian bergamot, Italian citron, bitter almond, aromatic chord, floral notes, leather

That was three days ago and since I’ve worn nothing but this weird salty citrus beauty. There’s not much to say about it really except it goes on all salted citrus, like drinking salty lemonade in India. It stays that way for a while, sweet and refreshing with a side swipe of sweaty. Like a salty Shalimar light.

Then it morphs into something a little bit more biscuit based, like lemon meringue pie eaten in a brand new leather chair.

Pexels

I know that as a review this completely sucks the weiner but that’s it in a nutshell and I freaking LOVE IT. Taormine is excellent. I’m sweltering in 36C in the shade here and the only thing cooling me down is a spritz from Keiko Mecheri’s Taormine.

Further reading: Olfactorialist
LuckyScent has $140/75ml + Samples
Libertine has $279/75ml + FREE Australian Shipping

Have you tried it?
Portia xx

Bal A Versailles by Jean Desprez 1962

March 4, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 18 Comments

Post by Portia

Heya Crew,

Last year Bal A Versailles was discontinued. It was quite a shock because I thought it was one of those fabulous fragrances that would go on forever. Sadly no. So obviously I went crazy buying new and old and now have quite a hoard. PHEW!

Bal A Versailles by Jean Desprez 1962

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Rosemary, orange blossom, mandarin orange, cassia, jasmine, rose, neroli, bergamot, Bulgarian rose, lemon
Heart: Sandalwood, patchouli, lilac, orris root, vetiver, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley, leather
Base: Tolu balsam, amber, musk, benzoin, civet, vanilla, cedar, resins

Why did I feel the need to grab loads? Is Bal A Versailles an incredible fragrance, even still after multiple reformulations, IFRA challenges and a clearly dwindling need to stay incredible?

Well, I didn’t merely buy up new, I also scanned the eBay pages and peoples documents. It became a little bit of an obsession.

So I have told of my using Mum’s miniature Bal A Versailles parfum on the Barbies as a kid. The smell seems to have been with me on and off throughout my life. Comfortable and warm, its richness and plush glamour offset by the very mundane daily sniffings of it through the years. I have hazy recollections of smelling it on my Mum while we’d be sharing the couch and watching TV companionably after dinner or the golf/tennis on a weekend (me bored to death but happy to be hanging with my Mum) when I would make us sandwiches and either milkshakes or coffee depending on season.

WikiMedia

Then later in life to rediscover its beauty in a 4ml vintage parfum. Moving forward to recently when my mate Scott arrives some days lierally bathed in the radiance of Bal A Versailles and then we do office work and go to the various errands that need doing with me awash in his massive sillage.

How does Bal A Versailles smell? Big, fun, over the top. It’s a grand high kitchen sink fragrance that is to scent what Phil Spectre’s Wall Of Sound was to music. Think Tina Turner’s River Deep, Mountain High or The Ronettes’ Be My Baby. A cacophony of fruit and flowers underpinned by resins, woods and animalics. Nothing smells quite like it but I sometimes get Tabu, Aromatics Elixir and Dia mixed up with it when I smell them on other people. Nope, they’re not the same but they all have a similar sillage in dry down.

Is it a Must Try vintage? Probably not. Am I sad to see it discontinued? Yes, there was a place for Bal A Versailles but clearly it wasn’t selling enough to continue.

Wikipedia

Further reading: MuseInWoodenShoes, Australian Perfume Junkies and ThePerfumePosse
Beauty Encounter has a range od EdT and Parfume
SurrenderToChance has all sorts starting at $3/ml

What vintage do you hoard? Do you have a bal A Versailles story?
Portia xxx

Parfum de Peau by Jean Guichard for Montana 1986

March 3, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 10 Comments

Post by Portia

Heya Fabulous Fumies,

For years I thought Montana’s DNA spiral perfume bottle was too silly for words. Nothing’s changed, I still think it’s silly. OK, something has changed, now I own a bottle. It was on such deep discount recently that I could not resist. My mate Scott has waxed lyrical about the fragrance and having spent a small amount of time with a vintage mini that Gino gave me I felt it was time to forget silly and go buy the frag. My new acquisition is the modern incarnation and is quite different in the base to the original, that does change the way the fragrance wears but…..

Parfum de Peau by Montana 1986

Parfum de Peau by Jean Guichard

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Blackberry, ginger, orange blossom, pepper, marigold, black currant
Heart: Patchouli, jasmine, rose, narcissus
Base: Leather, amber, musk, incense

First spritz opens up sharp, bittersweet, tangy, pissy and rich. The metalic/oily twang of aldehydes and screechy super sonic blackberry and black currant are further amplified by pepper and ginger which give uber sting. Eau de Paeu is big, strong, overbearing and in control, even now in its modern form. What is different for me is that the base used to ground the opening a little, give it depth and tonality, make it lush and opulent. Nowadays not so much so I end up with all this crazy treble fragrance that seems slightly artless, all the arch grandeur has made way for trashy, loud, uneducated and poorly outfitted sluttery. How the mighty have fallen.

Flickr

Yet, I still love Parfum de Peau. The huge, shoulder padded, bravado does still lurk within the heart which is muted by comparison to the remarkable opening. Within 15 minutes the whole fragrance has quietened to a dull roar, only seeming less enormous because you’ve just survived a barrage, a wall of fragrance. The heart gives me the dry, raspiness of freshly ground black pepper, narcissus but a sweeter, softer, more friendly narcissus than the absolue. Also Parfum de Peau’s patchouli and leather make their appearance tempered by the flowers and vanilla. The animal which growled and howled through the original Montana has been tamed, caged, bathed and toilet trained, the tramp has become a lady in a bizarre twist of irony.

WikiMedia

Still naughty and outrageous compared to most of the 21st centuries mainstream and designer offerings and it lasts well at a lower level of hum for hours & hours. Once it hits the heart/dry down crossover there isn’t much change but merely fade.

Further reading: Now Smell This and I Smell Therefore I Am
FragranceX has AUD$66/100ml

Do you have a fave that has been reformulated but you still love it?
Portia xxx