Interview: Neela Vermeire

December 21, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 14 Comments

Post by Portia

Hey there Fragrant Friends,

I have a huge apology to make. This interview was done back in April 2015 and the email got lost in the wrong folder. I found it this week and thought it would be really nice to put it up. Neela is one of my mates and I know how much of her heart and soul goes into her fragrant creations, I had a few questions and thought you also might like to read her answers.

Interview: Neela Vermeire

Photo Donated Neela Vermeire Creations

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Cardamom, Cinnamon, Saffron, Juniper, Magnolia, Neroli, Clementine, Bergamot
Heart: Orange blossom absolute, Rose absolute, Tuberose absolute, Jasmine sambac, Ylang-ylang
Base: Benzoin absolute, Sandalwood, Driftwood, Haitian vetiver

Pichola is out, congratulations, how do you feel after the launch of one of your fragrances?

Thank you Portia! We feel very excited by the generally positive reaction.

I find Pichola a big departure from your previous 4 releases, what lead you down this path?

We did not intend any conscious departure – but I understand what you mean – it is different compared to the first four (and the fifth Mohur Extrait).
We wanted to create a fragrance that reflected the feeling of the light reflections on Pichola. Also that it is a fragrance that could be worn by people who appreciate a rich yet translucent smell.
The texture of Pichola EDP is complex yet at the same time lighter and it feels like a silk chiffon which has colours yet is light to wear. We did not want a heavy hitting white floral that could knock one out but one that could be a comforting and elegant companion when worn.
The first four are perhaps more complex at first glance, heavier and texture-wise like rich brocade silk.

You are famous Neela as Bertrand Duchaufour’s most exacting client, was your fifth collaboration’s creation any easier?

It gets tougher to create something that in our opinion needs to measure up to the existing creations. Ashoka won an award last year and that raised the bar further up and made it even more difficult. It never gets any easier.
We don’t and will never rest on any laurels (that would be rather unwise) – we work like we did with the very first fragrances – with lots of time, dedication, positive energy, honesty and making sure that the creations weave the magic for everyone who encounters them. Naturally they are not all “people pleasers” but what is the point of us creating unexciting perfumes? We want each of our clients to feel transported into our olfactory universe.

There are two types of visitor to Udaipur’s Lake Pichola: the ones who stay in the Lake Palace looking out and the ones who stay on the shore to view the palace in Pichola. Which one are you and why?

I have stayed both on the shore and on one of the two main islands -where the Lake Palace is located.
The view is very different from the shore.
It is one of objectivity and a wide lens view – if that makes sense.
When you are inside the Lake Palace – you feel it is a personal story and it is a close-up. It is subjective detailed and focused view. You see your view of the shore and the lake according to where you stand in the palace and during what time of a day or night.

Which are your three biggest countries for clients and why do you think that is?

Difficult to say but off the top of my head
Italy, US, Russia – I think it is because these fragrances sing a song for everyone who has an open heart to listen to these creations.

Will we ever see home or body products from Neela Vermeire Creations?

Yes I would personally love this to happen.
However, as a totally independent company – we need to sell our existing perfumes well to focus on our next creations.
We will not launch a new line until we can make this a sustainable business.

However, we do have some beautiful leather clutch bags and some accessories that we only sell when people request through our web boutique.

——
Thank YOU xxxx

“It’s hard to be a diamond in a rhinestone world.” Dolly Parton.

Further reading: Australian Perfume Junkies and What Men Should Smell Like
Neela Vermeire Creations has €205/60ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $7/.5ml

It’s nice to learn a little about Neela and the way she operates, yes? Which is your favourite Neela Vermeire Creation?
Portia xx

CHANEL: Paris in Rome 2015/16 Métiers d’Art show

December 20, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 3 Comments

Post by Portia

Hey Crew,

it’s another beautiful season at CHANEL. Karl Lagerfeld has worked his magic, or pushed others to work theirs, and the results are so wearable. This is beautiful fabrics cut perfectly and I can see the wealthy CHANEL devotees lapping this stuff up. Bravo! Not really groundbreaking but some interesting reinterpretations and some fun frivolities. The girls makeups all look so soft and I also am happy the beehive is on a return.

I put the Behind The Scenes first because it’s only a few minutes but if you have the time check out the full show. Fabulous.
Portia xx

Photo Stolen CHANEL

CHANEL: 2015/16 Métiers d’Art show

Behind the Scenes Film – Paris in Rome

CHANEL: Paris in Rome 2015/16 Métiers d’Art show

Lann-Aël by Amélie Bourgeois for Lostmarc’h 2007

December 17, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 4 Comments

Post by Portia

The Lostmarc’h thing passed me by. I remember there being a flurry of excitement at release but since then I haven’t really noticed much buzz. Someone sent me a handwritten sample of todays fragrance and I had to go do some digging once I sprayed. Having been released in 2007 and still around in the current niche market speaks volumes, also its price is unbelievably reasonable for niche. It was nearly impossible to get into the decant, which is why it’s taken so long to get to it but curiosity can overcome all barriers. I think I may be hooked….

Lann-Aël by Lostmarc’h 2007

Lann-Aël by Amélie Bourgeois

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Vanilla, hay, apple, wheat, milk

The Lann-Aël opening is slightly dry and a hint of apple but no big whack of it. Quite rightly, general consensus on the blogs is sweet breakfast cereal, think Fruit Loops or Crunchy Nut Cornflakes, sugary, a little nutty and with milk splashed over all liberally. It’s not the smell in the bowl though, no way, it’s the smell in your mouth as you start to chomp it all together.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

There’s something a little rice-ish about Lann-Aël, Jin’s rice has a very particular smell when he reheats it in the microwave and I am getting scent memory flashes. No wonder this is a hit. It’s summer here in Sydney, temperature is around 35C (95F) at 10am and the sweet warmth of Lann-Aël and its yummy vanilla dry down is working a treat. Not cloying or sickly but balmy and rich feeling.

The opening is the big ticket item in Lann-Aël, after that it smooths to a comfortable vanilla plus some light spices and resins, a sweet amber. It’s not bad or generic but it isn’t ground breaking either. I smell good for hours, 5-6 even in this heat.

Photo Stolen WikiMedia

From LuckyScent: Breakfast in fairyland: lighter-than-air buckwheat cakes; bowls of warm, pudding like cereal topped with cream ladled from the top of the milking bucket; sweet apples “borrowed” by the pixies from a nearby orchard. A delectable honeyed fruit opening eases into a soft and mellow vanilla-tinged milkiness that is as comforting as a mother’s embrace.

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and Perfume Posse
LuckyScent has $85/100ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $3/ml

Do you ever feel the need to wear something fun, frivolous and foody? This could be it for you
Portia xx

So…? GIVEAWAY WINNERS

December 7, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 1 Comment

Post by Portia

I had a great time trying these budget beauties. Hopefully our winners will get equal or more joy from them.
Portia xx

So…? GIVEAWAY WINNERS

Photo Stolen So…?

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Blackcurrant, pineapple, citron
Heart: Lily of the valley, freesia
Base: Vanilla, musk, woody notes

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 3 winners who will receive one of the following each (no, you don’t get to choose):
1 x 30ml So…? Sensual EdT (discontinued but fun fruitchouli)
1 x 30ml So…? Kiss Me EdT
1 x 150ml So…? Kiss Me Body Spray
P&H Worldwide

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 6th December 2015 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners were chosen by random.org

Photo Stolen prospectsplus

Robert H

Bianca B

Jaybee

The winners will have till Thursday 10th December 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Centrepiece by Sarah McCartney for 4160Tuesdays 2015

December 5, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 11 Comments

Post by Robert Herrmann

Hi APJ,

It was a Monday to remember. Late getting up and having to rush to a Doctor’s appt. Rushing out the door, but stop to grab my decant (thank you Lillian Betts Holloway!) of the new Centrepiece edp by perfumer Sarah McCartney.

Centrepiece by 4160Tuesdays 2015

Centrepiece by Sarah McCartney

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accordsin one line:
Honey, green tea, frangipani, musk, cedar, vanilla, sorbet, chocolate

OK. I get it. I was rushing so of course I tragically spill the the WHOLE decant all over my arm and clothes!

SOTD: Centrepiece by 4160Tuesdays. LOTS of it…..(read on…)

Well shit! No time to wash, so out the door I go and I smell FREAKING amazing!!! Holy cow, this is some GREAT stuff!

Now usually I don’t wear any scent for a medical appt. of any kind. Clinics get fussy if you do. So I thought “well…it is what it is.” So off I go.

I stop at my Cafe to check in and all I hear is “Oh my god is that YOU? You smell incredible!!” Ok. This is good.

I walk into the clinic and it’s the same thing. From every single receptionist, nurse, blood draw technician, and finally my beloved doctor, and he has a COLD for god’s sake!

Photo Stolen Flickr

From LuckyScent: Originally created from a chance selection of ingredients and accords that inspired relaxed, peaceful feelings, Centrepiece is that most fundamental of 4160 Tuesdays-style creations- lighthearted, inspired, devoid of typical haute perfume pretension, and downright lovely. Focused around the sweet, tropical floral note of frangipani, Centrepiece further adds to the indulgent (but never cloying) bouquet with sweet honey and creamy vanilla, balancing it all against green tea and rich but gentle cedar. The results are entrancing, an everyday-suitable, gently powerful white floral that soothes, seduces and relaxes in equal measure. Simply beautiful.

Photo Stolen WikiMedia

Further reading: Ca Fleure Bon
LuckyScent has $110/50ml
4160Tuesdays has £15/9ml

PS……..4160Tuesdays also has an extrait strength for sale on their website, and that’s the one I ultimately. All I can say is…..”Um…..well dip me in honey and color me joyous!”

So the moral of this story? Who the hell knows.

All I know is I do is that this ‘fume indeed smells amazing!!!

What is your 4160Tuesday?
Robert Herrrmann

Coriandre by Jacqueline Couturier for Jean Couturier 1973

November 29, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 11 Comments

Post by Anne-Marie

I bought my bottle of Coriandre a couple of summers ago during a visit to Hobart. There’s a perfumery there called St Cloud that I loved years ago when I lived in Hobart. I still I remember the thrill of buying a teeny bottle of Chanel No 19 parfum back in 19 … oh, never mind …

The business has moved premises but when I got chatting to the guy I was charmed to discover it is still run by the same people. Riding this wave of nostalgia, I could not resist a 100 ml bottle of Coriandre.

Coriandre by Jean Couturier 1973

Coriandre by Jacqueline Couturier

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Aldehydes, coriander, orange blossom, angelica, bergamot
Heart: Violet root, lily, jasmine, rose, geranium, iris, ylan ylang
Base: Sandalwood, patchouli, musk, civet, oakmoss, vetiver

If you are worried that Coriandre will smell like coriander (cilantro), do still give it a try it. It does not remind me of the leaves, but the warmth of the seeds is there (much less pungent than the actual spice). It will not remind you of food in the least.

Photo Stolen Wikimedia

Coriandre is essentially a green fragrance, a chypre, but not as stemmy as, say, Balmain’s Vent Vert or CHANEL’s Bel Respiro. There is no chewy galbanum, and no juicy citrus. It makes a great fragrance for summer if you like to avoid citrus colognes. The effect is herbal, a little spicy, woody and earthy, and quite dry. I struggle to think of anything like it, really, although the mossy element dates Coriandre to before the 1990s.

Coriandre crackles with intelligence and wit, easily a unisex fragrance. It’s like a country cousin to CHANEL No 19 or Rive Gauche, much less refined. It’s as if Coriandre dropped out of law school and set up a pottery studio in a farm shed on Mum and Dad’s property.

Photo Stolen Pixabay

The fragrance reformulated in 1993. I’m reviewing the modern EDT, which is mostly what you see at the online discounters now. I can well believe that Coriandre is not what it was: the scent on skin often strikes me as too woody and harsh. The sillage is lighter, greener and much more nuanced. Longevity on me is moderate.

On the day I bought my bottle of Coriandre I had no internet access and it was a true impulse buy. Only when I got home did I realise that I probably paid twice what I should have. I’ve no regrets though. I helped a long-standing small business to survive another day and I had a fun experience. There was no tester but the guy in the shop opened his only bottle so I could sniff it. He keeps Coriandre pretty much for one customer, he told me, a man who buys it once a year for his wife whose signature it is. Wondering who this fascinating, unknown Coriandre-wearing lady was, I hardly noticed as my credit card leapt out of my wallet and did a little dance across the counter towards the till. Sold!

Further reading: Now Smell This and Perfume Shrine
FragranceNet has EdT $23/100ml before coupon

Until next time – keep spritzing everyone!
Anne-Marie xx

Calvin Klein: Making Fall 2015 Campaign

November 27, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom

Post by Portia

Hi there Fashion/Art?Fumies,

Here’s in an interesting piece about Calvin Klein bringing in visual artist Charles Atlas to create the Fall 2015 Campaig. What happens in a beautiful and quirky fusion of artistic vision. Perfectly focused and something lovel. I like it when the huge multinationals give an artist free reign to make their own mark.

I hope you enjoy this little look into the process.

Portia xx

Photo Stolen Calvin Klein

Calvin Klein: Making Fall 2015 Campaign

Hiram Green Voyage by Hiram Green 2015

November 24, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 18 Comments

Post by Val the Cookie Queen

Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea was my favourite TV series as a kid. Admiral Nelson and his crew. The flying sub which could leave the ocean and function as an airplane being the coolest thing ever.

Hiram Green Voyage by Hiram Green 2015

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Citruses
Heart: Amber, suede
Base: Vanilla

Hiram Green’s Voyage – An ode to the exotic mysteries of India.

I chatted with Hiram briefly the other day. He mentioned that he would find it difficult to write two sentences about his own creations, and was interested that some bloggers could write thick novels. I found that highly amusing.

Photo Donated Val CQ

When I started writing for APJ it was really just a bit of fun. I was extremely surprised when I found that people were asking if they could send me perfumes to
try. I was so excited but that soon died down when I saw that most of them didn’t work on me. I believe that is the politically correct way of putting it? I
only get some sort of inspiration when I like something. Which kind of limits me. Perhaps I should write about what sucks, but I am sure Portia would fire me. I digress. Hiram Green sent me a sample of Voyage and I have used it all. It is quite bodacious.

Photo Donated Hiram Green

Voyage is opulent and sumptuous, two words that do not tend to get used with an all natural perfume. It is the drydown of many more modern perfumes where it falls short of expectation. Top loaded to blow your mind and then after 20 minutes the common base. Voyage could not be further away from this perfume concept. The perfume is built on a base of superb vanilla and a heart of amber. The fragrance opens with a lively citrus feel before slipping into the spicy, warm, lush heart. Hiram doesn´t mention spice in his list of notes, but hey, who cares about the notes anyway? There is a soft suede halo wrapped around the whole composition, which draws it altogether. It is tweaked to perfection and lasts for hours. It blows apart all preconceived ideas (mine) of natural perfumery apart.

Attention to detail is exquisite, from the wax seal to the website. The bottles are stunning. They are every bit as gorgeous in real life as they are on the pictures. All three of his scents are outstanding. He clearly does not bend to the industry, nor to the trend of churning out a new fragrance every few months.
Modern classic beauty.

Photo Stolen WikiMedia

Voyage, as well as Moon Bloom and Shangri La can be purchased in 5 ml sprays at Hiram Green. All three highly recommended. Note that Voyage is limited to 250 bottles.

“Ah, you’ve come over the water. Powerful wet stuff, ain´t it?”
The Voyage of the “Dawn Treader”. C.S. Lewis

Valiant Bussis
CQ

Moistfull Super Collagen Cream by Etude House

November 23, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 21 Comments

Post by Azar

Hello APJ,

I know that we already have our very own beauty editor here at APJ – AF Beauty – who does a fantastic job of keeping us updated on skin care and make-up. Nevertheless I just had to comment on a few skin care samples that Portia sent my way a few months ago.

Korean skin care is all the rage lately. Ever since Soo Ae, the famous Korean actress, started her own line several years ago I have wanted to give Korean beauty products a try. Unfortunately what I could find locally was limited and quite expensive. Within the last year (or has it been longer?) the products from the Korean skin care company Etude House have been made available to US buyers through the Etude House website and on Amazon. Portia’s samples of Etude House products, picked up on a recent visit to Korea, have turned me into a Korean skincare junkie.

After seeing some recent photos of myself I knew that something had to change! Short of surgery there isn’t too much a woman of my age can do about sagging skin, but I really think that the first of Portia’s samples I tried actually helped to give my skin a smoothing lift.

Moistfull Super Collagen Cream by Etude House

Etude House Moistfull Super Collagen Cream, containing 63% hydrolyzed collagen from seaweed, is a light weight cream with a gel-like consistency that glides onto the skin leaving a moist finish, brightening the complexion, smoothing the look of lines and wrinkles and giving the appearance of a slight lift to drooping skin and to that dreaded dewlap. The effect was immediately noticeable after a single application. I quickly used up the two samples from Portia and ordered this product and several other Etude House items on Amazon. The Super Collagen cream continues to impress. There is also a non-super version of this cream. The formula is a little different. I definitely prefer the Super version. I also find that the Etude House Moistful Super Collagen Eye Concentrate relieves under-eye puffiness and the Pearl Aura Brightening Essence revives dull looking skin.

I don’t imagine I will totally abandon my old favorites by Orlane and Paula’s Choice. They seem to work to minimize enlarged pores and reduce wrinkles. However, the Etude House products are at least as effective for a slightly lower price than Paula’s Choice and are considerably less expensive than anything by Orlane that isn’t past the pull date.

I won’t include any more “before and after” photos here today as I am not equipped to do selfies. You will just have to take my word for it – I think that these products might actually work!

Have you tried the Korean skin care lines? Do you have a favorite brand that you use regularly? Despite my love of these products I often find myself wondering if using any kind of skincare is just a big waste of time and money. What do you think?

Azar xx

My Beauty Fallbacks: Clarins Blue Orchid Face Treatment Oil

November 22, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 16 Comments

Post by AF Beauty

Testing makeup and skincare products can be exciting and amazing, especially when you find a wow product or something unexpected – that’s always a total buzz. However, testing can also be a buzzkill, sadly. At something-something age – I do have a fairly good idea of what my skin needs and likes and if something I’m testing is not as wow as I hoped, I have my fallbacks where I can trust that I’ll get my skin back to an even playing field before starting on the next test.

My Beauty Fallbacks: Clarins Blue Orchid Face Treatment Oil

Now, I’ll be honest, this oil is totally scathed by Paula’s Choice review. They say this is as “good for for dehydrated skin as massaging it with sandpaper!“. Interestingly, the comments on the site (only two) are positive – neither written by me! – but I would add my endorsement to their opinions.
I’ve used this on and off for about 5 years now having seen it recommended in another beauty column. The whole oil will help with dehydration thing is a bit of a mind bend, but for my skin it works.

This is how I use it: First is simply as a step in my usual routine. I would normally wash my face using the nanna flannel technique with whatever cleanser is on the go at the time. I wipe my face with the flannel till clean but don’t then reach for the towel. My face isn’t sopping wet, it’s more damp than dripping. I reach for the oil, drop a few drops in my hand – usually between 2 and 5 depending on how my skin is – warm the oil in my hands and then pretty much apply as if it were a moisturiser, pressing a little in here and there in spots which I feel need some extra TLC. Clarins have a whole little video on how to apply which is far more tender and serene than my description – you can see that in the link in one of the pictures of the product. Once oil is applied I then go for serum or moisturiser as usual – I wouldn’t use it before applying make up.

I do occasionally also use this as a treatment of itself – especially on a weekend where I am feeling the need to pamper. Either I’ll wash my face in the usual way – or if I’m feeling posh, I’ll wash then apply a fancy spray water to my face to moisten and ready for further application. I’m currently using the Avène Thermal Spring Water. I then take the oil in the same way as before and apply. If I’m applying as more of a treatment, I’ll do this, wait about 30 mins, then reapply again – spray with the water and reapply the oil. You could then apply a mask of your choice over this as well. Overall I notice with even just a week’s application my skin hydration improves – I think quite significantly. I really notice the plumpness is restored to my skin and I have fewer dry lines.

David Jones online or in store Clarins Blue Orchid Face Treatment Oil $52
Priceline has Avène Thermal Spring Water $9.99/50ml

There are a number of Clarins oils for various skin conditions, have you used any of them? How did you get on? Are you a fan or do you side with Paula?