Heatwave Fragrances for Summer 2015

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Post by Greg Young

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Hey APJ,

South-east Australia has been sweltering in a heat wave for days on end. Going outside has been like walking into a brickmaker’s kiln, and staying inside hasn’t been much fun either. Conservative businessmen such as myself are dispensing with their ties and looking fondly at the pub over the road from work, dreaming of a cold craft beer.

Choosing the right fragrance for temperatures like this can be tough. I feel the need for something that picks me up in the morning and sends me out feeling at least a little bit chipper. For me, that usually means something with a citrus hit. It also needs to defy the evaporative force of baking Melbourne heat, so classic EdCs are off the list. Here is how I dealt with the heat this week.

Heatwave Fragrances for Summer 2015

Orange Star Tauer Perfumes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Thursday: the wave begins
The CBD baked in 36 degree heat. Tauer’s Orange Star has a sharp citrus juice opening that is very refreshing on a hot morning. It’s not really my idea of a summer fragrance; the vanilla and tonka bean give it a sweetness that I think is more appropriate for cooler days. The fact that Orange Star lasted the distance in this heat is impressive; I could still smell its amber drydown 12 hours later at home, in the cooling blast of A/C.

Blenheim Bouquet Penhaligon`s FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Friday: the swelling wave
When the thermometer climbs to 39 and it’s accompanied by a northerly wind Melbourne becomes positively beastly. I chose Penhaligon’s Blenheim Bouquet for my Friday fragrance. This very traditional fragrance was designed for Winston Churchill’s father – Blenheim Palace is the Churchill family seat. It’s lemon and lime scent was just what I needed, bolstered by a refreshing pine. This was a perfect pick. While not exactly fighting on the beaches, it never surrendered.

Italian Citrus D.S. & Durga FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Saturday: the wave crests – and a special occasion.
It was 41C (106F) on Saturday. We planned to travel for a weekend away to celebrate our wedding anniversary. This meant we had to go out in blinding heat, sit in a car where the seats set fire to you when you climbed in, and moan to one another about how hot it was.

We went to dinner at a rural Italian restaurant of considerable note and I chose D.S. & Durga’s Italian Citrus, with its powerful, complex, almost bitter citrus note that really stays with you. It developed a sweeter musk as the night wore on, but the citrus remained until the end rather than giving way to the base notes. It lasted a good four hours.

Masque Terralba FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Sunday: the wave breaks
Only by comparison to the furnace of Saturday could the 39 degrees we reached on Sunday be considered cooler. We were in the car again travelling home. At the outset we could feel every one of those 39 degrees, cutting short our trip to get into the car and just leave.

I wore Masque Terralba. There is a cedary opening to this, but it’s cut by a little bit of lemon. It has an oceanic note that I can’t quite place, which reduces the woodsiness. Some herbal green notes emerge later as well.

Shortly after arriving home, the heat wave broke. Intermittent showers of rain brought relief from the fearsome dry, and the temperature tumbled ten degrees in just a few hours. The heat wave was over – until the next one.

Surrender To Chance is a great place to sample most of these.

How do you cope with heat?
Greg Young

Sotto La Luna Tuberose by Andy Tauer for Tauer Perfumes 2015

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Post by Portia

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Hi there Independent Niche Nerds,

Andy Tauer became known on the frag scene through blogging about his fragrance creation adventures. He was the first perfumer to engage the world in such a way and he and his style of perfumery are loved even though his scents can be polarising. Many people have problems with his Tauer-ade: a sweet citrus/honey/amber baseline to my nose that can last days on skin and indefinitely in fabrics. Personally I really like his style and I purchased a decant of his newest offering from Surrender To Chance which has just arrived. Scott was over and we decided to trial it first on paper and then on skin. It’s even more fun testing fragrances with a mate because different people pick up different nuance.

Sotto La Luna Tuberose by Tauer Perfumes 2015

Sotto La Luna Tuberose by Andy Tauer

Sotto La Luna Tuberose Tauer Perfumes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Cinnamon, cloves, geranium, galbanum
Heart: Tuberose, ylang-ylang, jasmine
Base: Tuberose, patchouli, amber

I can’t tell you what I was expecting from Sotto La Luna Tuberose but I was surprised by what I got. The green and oily, petrochemical reminiscent opening still manages to be smooth and is offset by sweet bubblegum. It’s an engaging dichotomy that keeps my nose glued to my wrist. Tuberose, imagine a bunch of tuberose on a table in an air conditioned office, Sotto La Luna Tuberose. Tuberose with that unreal, artificial coolness. We get a lovely sappiness of whitest green, like cutting hydrangeas and their sap.

There are also herbal, tropical, balmy and resinous notes flowing through and both Scott and I were convinced (without looking at notes) that there is a honey that is cleaned of most of its animalics but leaving a thick, glutinous sweetness that has nothing to do with the 21st century craze for confectionery. Maybe this is Andy’s amber.

Sotto La Luna Tuberose by Andy Tauer Honey Siona Karen FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

After about 30-40 minutes we couldn’t decide how to describe the smell and came up with three similar but all just wide of the mark: smoky caramel, lightly burnt vanilla or sun pinked skin after a day at the beach. It’s an undercurrent running beneath the tuberose which stays right to the end of the fragrance. For anyone who has ever been upset by the longevity of the tuberose ferociousness in Versace Blonde, SL Tubereuse Criminale, L’Artisan Nuit de Tubereuse, Piguet Fracas or Ava Luxe Tubereuse Diabolique then here is a tuberose for you. Ferocious at the start and maintaining a fun level of outrageous throughout its lengthy lifespan. NSFW people unless you are in a very cool workplace where they like people to be fully fragrant.

How is Sotto La Luna Tuberose different? Longevity, tuberose staying power, opening oily green and bubblegum together and the patchouli/amber is different, unpickable for us as exactly a thing to reference we spent ages trying to find good and easily understandable correlations. Scott said he will now buy a decant to see if he loves it as much as he thinks, being a bit of a BWF hater. Different enough? Definitely.

Sotto La Luna Tuberose by Andy Tauer Tuberose Stella Yodo FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Further reading: Now Smell This and Perfume Posse
IndieScents has $145/50ml
Surrender To Chance has samples from $3.45/.5ml

What is your Tauer favourite?
Portia xxx

Vetiver Dance 07 by Andy Tauer for Tauer Perfumes 2008

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Post by Portia

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One of my mates Natalie from Another Perfume Blog (now defunct sadly) gave me a manufacturers sample of this one. I like vetiver very much and especially its many uses to hold land together and leech toxins from water. To be hgonest I’m a little surprised that it’s not being used more to help clean up the world’s waterways. Add to that the many amazing facets that perfumers can find through it, from green grass through to smoky oil and you have a versatile beauty.

Vetiver Dance 07 by Tauer Perfumes 2008

Vetiver Dance 07 by Andy Tauer

07 Vetiver Dance Tauer Perfumes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Grapefruit oil, black pepper accords, green clary sage
Heart: Bulgarian rose, lily of the valley, Java vetiver oil
Base: Cedar, ambergris, tonka beans, citrus

Oily, bittersweet and green. Vetiver Dance opens in high style, large and flamboyant, a sheet of iced green water in the midday sun. A joyful blend between the shock and fun, caught between breathless disbelief and awaiting the bodies readjustment. The pepper is dry and also ginger-ish and the much hoped for lily of the valley punch way smoother and less provoking than expected.

When the vetiver gets a chance to shine it has the soft wetness of freshly mown grass and the dry rasp of punka fans. I’m surprised that chocolate isn’t a named note because my nose reads the fabulous creamy explosion of a warm, nutty Lindor ball. I wonder if it’s the tonka?

Then later Vetiver Dance warms right through while still maintaining its green-ness. I don’t know how it’s managed but warm and spicy bakery underpins the green woodsiness of the heart, like an unusual Asian taste meld that is surprising yet once you realise that this IS the taste you can relax into it and enjoy the two speed flavour ride. Do you remember your first sweet & sour dish?

 

07 Vetiver Dance Tauer Perfumes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Vetiver Dance is beautiful. The thing is I find it very hard to place in my head someone who would wear it as their regular scent. Ultimately very unisex, not confrontational but slightly unorthodox, interesting through the whole lifespan and not like other vetivers. My thought is that it’s too quirky for mainstream but would a perfumista reach for it? I’d like to read from you if it is something in your collection and you wear it a lot. There is something more-ish about it, I’ve been wearing it for the last couple of days and will wear it again tonight for dinner, that will be the end of my juice. Then let’s see if I want to buy a 15ml in my next Tauer Explorer Set.

Been out for dinner with no respritz, so over 12 hours later and I’m still softly fragrant with a sweet/green rasp. Vetiver Dance sits close but is still gorgeous. I have no other vetiver scent in  y waerdrobe with this kind of tenacity…….

Further reading: Non Blonde and Sorcery of Scent
IndieScents has $130/50ml
Tauer Explorer Set 3 x 15ml with FREE world shipping
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/.5ml

What is your Tauer, or your vetiver?
Portia xx

 

Une Rose Chypree by Andy Tauer for Tauer Perfumes 2009

Hey Frag Family,

My mate Natalie from the now sadly defunct Not Another Perfume Blog gave me a bunch of samples and decants when she quit blogging. It has been really interesting slowly going through her bag because some of the things lurking inside are brand new to me, others are fragrances I’ve tried earlier in my obsession and while I liked them well enough when I first tried them I may have been too green or have had a much more limited understanding of scent. It is really fabulous to come across a scent that became lost in the multitudes again and have a second chance with it.

Today I am going to look at exactly one such……

Une Rose Chypree by Andy Tauer for Tauer Perfumes 2009

Une Rose Chypree Tauer Perfumes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Cinnamon, bay, bergamot, lemon, Clementine orange
Heart: Bulgarian rose, rose absolue, Bourbon geranium Base: Labdanum, oakmoss, patchouli, vetiver, vanilla

Sizzling spices and citrus burst out of the nozzle immediately and my office is filled with the scent of sun, fun, joy and playfulness. An explosion, a riot, a zinging zesty carnival of scent. The citruses are marvellously shown off with the addition of spice and I feel a real hot chilli effect too. It’s like you’ve thrown the spices in the pan to cook together before you add your meat to a sweet curry. Yesterday I complained of A La Rose not living on my skin, well here is a fragrance that not only lives but makes a cacophony! Une Rose Chypree is F U N and fabulous.

Une Rose Chypree Tauer Perfumes frying-pan olafBroeker PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

One of the things I usually love about Andy Tauer’s work is the slow progression of stages, I get to really live and smell each transformation and enjoy the pieces of his puzzle. Maybe I’m lucky because his work really seems to like my skin chemistry. In the heart of Une Rose Chypree I get this amazing caramel/toffee/rose melange, it is delicious, unusual and crunchy. Warm and cozy yet totally good for hot weather. Today is a very pleasant 21C (70F) and Une Rose Chypree is a perfect scent to take me through the day and into evening.

Dry down comes hours later and lasts into the next morning with Andy’s famous Tuer-ade lingering and getting sweeter and softer as it progresses. In the morning a whisper of sweet Une Rose Chypree resins lays over my skin making my early morning funk smell pleasant and still edible. MMMMMMM

Une Rose Chypree Tauer Perfumes Fondant_Rose WikiCommonsPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

One thing I will say is that if you have a zero fragrance policy at your work then this humdinger is probably not going to fit the bill, no matter how lightly you spray Une Rose Chypree is a big scent and an attention grabber for the first 3-4 hours. More often than not I will be complimented on my fragrance when wearing Une Rose Chypree, she is a showstopper.

Une Rose Chypree sample Tauer PerfumesPhoto Stolen Tauer Perfumes

Further reading: Perfume Shrine and Perfume Shrine
IndieScents has $140/50ml
Tauer Perfumes has samples starting at $5.40

Have you ever revisited a fragrance that you liked to find that it was true love? Which one, or ones?
Portia xx

Travel Scent Choices: Singapore + South Korea Spring 2015

Hey Y’All,

As you may know Jin is changing jobs so to celebrate this sudden rise in fortunes we are bringing our 2015 holiday forward from November to now, we leave on Wednesday. OH YES WE DO!

singapore trip AdvisorPhoto Stolen TripAdvisor

First stop is one of my long time buddies places in Singapore, hey Julie! I have never done a holiday in Singapore before; though my last partner Varun & I spent 36 hours in the airport because he didn’t have a visa while we were on our way to India. You would think we had a bad time, we did not. It was crazy fun, that Changi Airport is enormous.

korea cherry blossom TripAdvisorPhoto Stolen TripAdvisor

Then we go on to South Korea to visit Jin’s family. Cherry blossom time will just be finishing but I think they will still be slightly in flower. It’s Jin’s Dad’s birthday so we are taking them for their first holiday in years, two days on the west coast of South Korea. They think this is a ridiculous extravagance but Jin is hiring a car and we’ll drive 3 hours each way, fully across South Korea, and spend one night at a pension (not even a hotel because that would be too much). They are adamant that this kind of frivolity should be avoided and that we should be putting our money to better use. Fingers crossed they have a good time, Jin has really been working hard on TripAdvisor to get it just right for them.

Travel Scent Choices: Singapore + South Korea Spring 2015

So spring will be WARM in Singapore and mild in South Korea. I need a small range of fragrances to get me by till I can hit the stores and buy Misia by CHANEL. It’s the only fragrance on my To Buy List right now and I know they’ll have it in both Singapore and Seoul. So I’m thinking 5 frags, 2 bottles and three decants. It’s only 12 days.

Travel Scent Choices: Bottles

 

L'Heure Convoiteé II Cartier FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

L’Heure Convoiteé II Cartier: This arctic, powdery, furball of a carnation/iris is so fabulously elegant and lasts all day. I can spritz and go and know I’ll smell freaking killer until I shower. I also love that it has it’s own sturdy leather pouch which means I don’t have to worry about it in my checked luggage.

La Chasse aux Papillons L`Artisan Parfumeur FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

La Chasse aux Papillons L`Artisan Parfumeur: 7.5ml Rollerball (not pictured). Nick from Libertine Parfumerie gave me this one to test because they are brand new in 2015 and I thought what better place to try it than on holiday. Space will be tight, I need something small and easily accessible and the bottle feels surprisingly hefty. I also find that rolling La Chasse aux Papillons makes it last longer on my skin.

Travel Scent Choices: Decants

Chanel Misia Chanel FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Misia CHANEL: Yes, my decant is almost drained already. Makeup and leather together so beautifully, a delightfully powdery and lightly soapy wash of pure elegance. I can’t tell you what a zing this gives me whenever I spritz, it’s not just its own scent but the memories of all the other scents that it reminds me of through its life and you know what? I love it so much that I’m going to wear it on the plane.

Manto di Rugiada i Profumi di Firenze BaseNotesPhoto Stolen BaseNotes

Manto di Rugiada i Profumi di Firenze: I keep forgetting to wear this lovely green, resinous amber. It’s light enough for spring and will smell gorgeous on the cooler evenings. Softly nuanced and beautifully blended I always enjoy my ride. There’s a couple of ml left in my decant, I might as well use them up.

07 Vetiver Dance Tauer Perfumes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

07 Vetiver Dance Tauer Perfumes: One of my mates Natalie from Another Perfume Blog (now defunct sadly) gave me a manufacturers sample of this one. I like vetiver very much and Vetiver dance has been sitting in my Must Try box for ages. I’m taking it with me so I can spend some time with one of the few Andy Tauer fragrances that I’ve not smelled.

What do you think of my choices? What would you pick if you had to take 5? It’s not forever, only a fortnight, so it’s not a really big decision. it is fun planning and choosing though.

Portia xx

RAOK: Random Acts Of Kindness in a Perfumista’s World

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Post by Ainslie Walker

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RAOK

Random Acts Of Kindness in a Perfumista’s World

I noticed “ROAK” trending on the Facebook Fragrance groups I belong to (Fragrance Guru Nation, Facebook Fragrance Friends etc.) It stands for Random Act Of Kindness.

In short, people give out sample vials, atomisers or bottles of fragrances, for free. Announced sometimes with a question or quiz people must answer, sometimes it’s first in, best dressed and BINGO! Some lucky member anywhere in the world gets to try new fragrances FOR FREE! Crazy, no?

For various reasons, I like having bottles in their original packaging. Recently I bought a perfume and to my surprise, the parcel included FIFTEEN 3ml decants!! A lucky dip. Was I going to be converted?!

It’s impossible to experience all the fragrances and brands we read about, so RAOK’s enable us to sniff a bunch of newbies, for free! The risk is, of course, that the fragrances may not be in their original condition, contaminated or have experienced poor storage conditions such as heat/light (Ed: which can happen to bottles or decants and it is a risk every time you don’t buy brand new sealed bottles less than 3 years old)…but for the joy, I think it’s a risk worth taking. Here is a quick fun flirt with some;

02L`AirduDesertMarocain FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Tauer – L’air Du Desert Marocain – I’d never smelt an ‘Andy Tauer’ before. Hooray! Instantly warm and balmy. coriander and a touch of sweaty cumin. The end of a dry hot day? Incense or dry woods like cedar. Sweet in the dry down. The spices continue to smolder. I am reminded of the Middle East. In particular when I spent a night camping in the desert in Egypt. Beautifully odd and a little creepy at times. (APJ LDDM Review<<JUMP)

1969 Parfum de Revolte Histoires de Parfums FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Histoires de Parfums – 1969 Parfum De Revolte – An empty vial, as it leaked en route, but can smell powdery peachy, vanillary sweet. It reads well on Fragrantica – cocoa, cardamom, rose, patchouli, clove, musk, apricot, coffee.

Pure Boadicea the Victorious FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Bodadicea The Victorious – Pure – Oooo yum, I’m having images of somewhere tropical. Fresh and fruit-spiced. I could drink this. So fresh and tropical but earthed by some deeper resins and woods. There’s some real strength to this one! Victory is mine! (well at least 3mls of it)

Fleurs d`Ombre Violette - Menthe Jean Charles Brosseau FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Jean Charles Brosseau – Fleurs D’Ombre Violette Menthe – Would have walked past this in a store, however this is a hit for me! I love the powdery woody violet notes immediately. The sandalwood is strong and buttery. The mint keeps the violets contemporary. Nicely balanced. I’d like this as bath oil. A few hours on, the freshness dies a little abruptly.

Tubereuse 1 Capricieuse Histoires de Parfums FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Histoires de Parfums – Tubereuse 1 Capricieuse – Had heard good things about this brand, but never worn them. Saffron, suede, menthol maybe a touch of tuberose, but not the pretty notes… I expected more. It isn’t pretty on me…? Anyone?

Frapin1270 Frapin FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Frapin 1270 you can read Portia’s APJ review<<JUMP. I discovered I do actually like fruity fragrance and have now even bought a full bottle from Peony in Melbourne.

So much fun!! A big thank you to Cassandra* for the hours of pleasure and new discoveries you have given me. I will always remember your kindness.

Ainslie Walker xx

*Name not changed, with permission

Cologne du Maghreb GIVEAWAY WINNERS

Hey gang,

What a fun 4th of July giveaway. Thanks for getting involved and I hope the winners love their Cologne du Maghreb.

Portia x

Cologne du Maghreb GIVEAWAY WINNERS

Cologne du Maghreb Tauer Perfumes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lemon, bergamot, clary sage
Heart: Rosemary, orange blossom, lavender, neroli, rose
Base: Atlas cedar, labdanum, vetiver, amber

IndieScents has $85/50mlSurrender To Chance has samples starting at $5/ml

WHAT COULD YOU WIN?

This week we will have 2 winners who will each get:
1 x 1.5ml carded manufacturers sample of Cologne du Maghreb by Tauer Perfumes (both I have spritzed from for review purposes)
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DID YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please tell me your favourite Eau de Cologne or Aromatic Fougere fragrance, experience, memory or why you would like to try this one.

Extra Chance?
Tweet: @OzPerfumeJunkie Cologne du Maghreb by Tauer Perfumes GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-2WJ #Perfume #Giveaway

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Sunday 6th July 2014 10pm Australian EST
Winners were chosen by random.org

Winners Are shannonmayerPhoto Stolen shannonmayer

Ferris Egoiste (via Twitter)

Fanny

The winners will have till Thursday 10th July 2014 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Cologne du Maghreb by Tauer Perfumes 2011

Hi there Niche Nerds,

As you may know already I really like Andy Tauer’s work. Not all of his fragrances work on my skin or to my nose but the ones that do are fantastic and I enjoy them very much. Usually with a Tauer fragrance you need to put aside a full day of wearing because they linger for hours and you will wake up next morning with a delicious Tauer-ade hangover on your skin. I never tried today’s offering last time it was released but Jeffrey Dame from Hypoluxe, the distributor through the Americas, asked if I’d like to try it. SURE, said I and a week or so later a pack arrived from Switzerland with a hand written note from Andy Tauer. COOL!!!

Cologne du Maghreb by Tauer Perfumes 2011

Cologne du Maghreb Tauer Perfumes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lemon, bergamot, clary sage
Heart: Rosemary, orange blossom, lavender, neroli, rose
Base: Atlas cedar, labdanum, vetiver, amber

I wore Cologne du Maghreb yesterday and I was surprised. Not because it’s lovely, it is but that’s not surprising. Not because it’s very required manly cologne-esque, it is that too. My surprise was how long it lasted on my skin. One of the things Andy Tauer is stressing is that this all natural fragrance is a short lived adventure. I got over three hours of fragrance, from top to dry down, then I couldn’t smell it but this morning I awoke and there it was the amber/wood had made it through the night and while drinking my first coffee of the day in the very cool morning temps I put my face into my top to suck out the cold air and add some hot and there it was. Faint but noticeable traces of Cologne du Maghreb.

Something else I love is that Cologne du Maghreb has a terrific scent story going from brightest, neon, dazzling citrus to dark, sweet, herbal, woodsy dankness. There are plenty of shades of floral, green, lavender, bracing and cuddly along the way and the whole fragrance has a smooth quality that moves beautifully between stages. No wonder Andy wanted to re-release this treasure, it’s great.

The experience was so fun that I decided to live it all again tonight. The picture below reflects my whole experience of Cologne du Maghreb perfectly. Bright, citrus, fresh, wet, green, shade, woods, sunlight, warmth, comfort.

Cologne du Maghreb Tauer Perfumes fresh_start identifyed_tehself DeviantArtPhoto Stolen DeviantArt

Though the smell is different, what Cologne du Maghreb most reminds me of is my Dad. He was a Tabac Original by Maurer & Wurtz wearer and one of the things I loved about him was his smell. I still keep Tabac original around and often use the soap, deodorant and/or fragrance. So my question is, has Andy Tauer pushed an Eau de Cologne towards being an Aromatic Fougere?

From IndieScents: The Cologne du Maghreb is hand crafted and created in the traditional way of cologne making: With all natural and all botanical raw materials only. Essential oils, absolutes, resins and love find their way into this Cologne…..

Further reading: Chemist In The Bottle and Bonkers About Perfume
IndieScents has $85/50mlSurrender To Chance has samples starting at $5/ml

Have you tried Cologne du Maghreb? What did you think? Would you like to?
See below,

Portia xx

Photo Stolen kbaird

Cologne du Maghreb GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 2 winners who will each get:
1 x 1.5ml carded manufacturers sample of Cologne du Maghreb by Tauer Perfumes (both I have spritzed from for review purposes)
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please tell me your favourite Eau de Cologne or Aromatic Fougere fragrance, experience, memory or why you would like to try this one.

Extra Chance?
Tweet: @OzPerfumeJunkie Cologne du Maghreb by Tauer Perfumes GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-2WJ #Perfume #Giveaway

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 6th July 2014 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Thursday 10th July 2014 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

 

 

Eau d'Epices by Andy Tauer for Tauer Perfumes 2010/14

Hey Hey APJ,

Today I wanted to look at one of my first Indie fragrance buys. It was not too long after I found you all here online, maybe 6 or 9 months and all everyone seemed to be talking about was this mystery genius Andy Tauer. First I grabbed a Sample Set which was used to the dregs and then I took the plunge, some LDDM for my BFF Kath and Eau d’Epices which ended up with me. Wonderful. Then it was discontinued and I put it away for special, bringing it out rarely to enjoy and savouring every drop in each spritz. Now it’s back in the shops….

Andy TauerAndy TauerNed Flanders TangenitalPhoto Stolen The Tangential

Eau d’Epices by Andy Tauer for Tauer Perfumes 2010/14

Eau D'Epices Tauer Perfumes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Cinnamon, cardamom, clove, coriander, red mandarin
Heart: Orange blossom, jasmine, orris root, incense
Base: Cistus ladaniferus resin (French labdanum), ambergris, tonka bean, vetiver

The opening rush of Eau d’Epices is so fabulously extravagant, like every note in the fragrance from top to bottom needs your attention immediately and is shouting to be heard. You need to spritz and walk for about 30 seconds so you are not overwhelmed. It’s a wonderful, outrageous and fun opening that brings a huge smile to my face whenever I reach for Eau d’Epices. Once the initial fireworks are over though we are left with a very pretty spicy citrus that really does have a juicy mandarin as its center piece and I love its reminder of my times in India. Whenever the local cuisine got too much for me in my early days of going to India my then partner Varun would go and find me mandarins, such a simple thing but it really felt like a connection to home and my culture shock would abate.

Eau d;Epices Watercolour Tauer

Often the words soapy are leveled at the heart of Eau d’Epices and I can see where the connection is made but for me the heart is more like a floral bouquet and make up, the spices are cool and awaiting the pan by this time, with the iris and incense adding another cooling layer, and the orange blossom/jasmine are pretty and tamed, not clean but certainly not sensual sirens either. Here I find no breathiness or body, Eau d’Epices is cool and aloof and not a big projection bomb. Yes, I am fragrant and it is lovely but after the first hour there would be no problem wearing it even to work, soft enough to be a moisturiser fragrance and more a wash than perfumed. There is still enough heft to be noticeable and if my shirt billows I get a fabulous puff of Eau d’Epices that sends me back to smiling swoon mode.

What happens then is a slow fade to Tauer-ade. That sweet, spicy, resinous long lingering magic that has some swooning in delight and others screaming for a shower. Luckily on my skin it is warm, lipstick-ish and I think very sensual. That’s good news because I will smell like ultimate dry down for hours, even having lingering remnants next morning. Perfect!!

Eau d'Epices Tauer William_Turner Goethe's_Theory WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

From Jeffrey Dame: As an aside, the formula is exactly the same as from 2010. If your current sample smells a little fresher and more “toppy” with the fragile top notes more evident it is because this sample was made less than 30 days ago.

IndieScents has $135/50ml (with FREE North American postage)
First In Fragrance has €105/50ml
Posh Peasant has samples starting at $6/ml

Which of the Tauer’s have you loved? Were you excited to read that Eau d’Epices is back?
Portia xx

PS All photos unattributed donated by Jeffrey Dame

Pentachords White by Andy Tauer for Tauer Perfumes 2011

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Post by Sister Mary Magdalen, Patron Saint of Perfumers

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Fragrance lovers, today I pray your indulgence as I sing a hymn to my favourite note in perfumery: Violet.

So unfashionable, I know. She has not the vampish allure of look-at-me Tuberose. She lacks the ballsy ubiquitous oomph of oudh. No, gentle reader, I languish in the limpid embrace of a shy flower. Her beguiling gaze from a by-gone time first lured this poor soul into the bottomless, limitless, wallet-emptying world of fragrance obsession.

My adoration for her is such, that I am not content merely to spray and smell, I must also consume violet creme chocolates, candies, liqueurs… anything really. Recently, after much searching, I procured a bottle of violet flavouring. Power up! Now I can have violet cereal. Violet anything!

Hence last week saw me whipping up a batch of vanilla butter cupcakes. They were in the oven and I was taste-testing the intensity of the violet white chocolate ganache that would soon adorn them, when I heard the all-too-familiar knock of my parcel postman at my front door. “My Tauer Explorer Sets!” I realised but even more delight was in store for that Swiss devil had included samples, one of which I had been fantasising about since first I read the list of notes:

Pentachords White by Andy Tauer for Tauer Perfumes 2011

Pentachords White Tauer Perfumes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Vanilla, violet, amber, iris, Brazillian rosewood, orris.

Of course I sprayed away without delay and was immediately delighted by a clear violet and vanilla that stunned me with pleasure. Perhaps this explains my weakness: violet is key to a bliss lock in my brain. Andy Tauer shares his process via a generous and genial blog, so I know that he has used the particularly narcotic violet aromachemical – alpha ironine – in Pentachords White. Despite these gourmand sounding notes and a subsequent dusting of icing sugar that seems to fall on the starring pair of violet and vanilla, the overall fragrant impression is very dry. The blog tells me this is because the composition rests on Ambroxan. The salty, buzzy rasp of it is evident, but to my nose, exquisitely balanced. It radiates and gives structure, but does not dominate.

Pentachords White Tauer Perfumes Violets U.S. Fish and Wildlife... FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

The longevity of Pentachords White is impressive, and the fragrance holds together. No element outlasts the others. To my nose, this is an all-night heavenly disco where Violet and Vanilla dance on a warm wooden floor whilst the Iris smoke machine and Ambroxan mirrorball add haze and scatter.

I’m fascinated by the idea of these Pentachords. I have now tried them all, and Pentachords White is truly the standout for me. This is not just due to my love of the violet, but also to my perception that this one much more than Auburn and Verdant successfully translates the 5 note concept. White truly is an unresolved tension between 5 points in space. It shimmers.

Pentachords White Tauer Perfumes Shimmer danielle defrancesco  FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

The play of oppositions in this scent is enthralling. Somehow Pentachords White manages to be sheer and abstract, yet alive on my skin. It oscillates between warmth and coolness. One moment a toothsome hologram of a violet ganache vanilla butter cupcake will loom in view (such synchronicity with my baking!), then a buzzing menace reminds that this sweet little treat just might bite back.

Further Reading: Smelly Thoughts and Now Smell This
LuckyScent has $150/50ml
Tauer Perfumes has $34.70/5 x 1.5ml Discovery set

Which of the Andy Tauer fragrances have you tried or did you like?

Sister Mary Magdelene, Patron Saint of Perfumers.