G’day APJ folk!
Hands up if you are a tuberose lover! Yup, me too! Have you ever noticed how tuberose tends to be treated in perfumery? For the most part, it is either big and loud and trumpets my presence into a room (think Amarige or Giorgio Bevery Hills) or it is pared with an assortment of off beat notes to subdue its energy (think Britney Spears Radiance or Hypnotic Poison). There is another treatment of tuberose that finds favour with me; the aristocratic creaminess of Tubereuse Trianon.
I think back to the first time I tried a sample of Tubereuse Trianon. It was a year ago and I literally rolled my eyes back and luxuriated in the sunny glory of the scent. It was an instant love. Had Chanel gone down the path of producing a tuberose perfume, this would be it. Tubereuse has that unmistakable quality of Parisian springtime captured in the most classy way. There is no loud shriek of attention, no cheap dressing the mutton as lamb. The often considered mature tuberose is respectfully clothed in notes to accentuate its regal and tasteful beauty. There is a heady, sexual feel to Tubereuse, yet it never does more than arch an eye brow.
Tubereuse Trianon by Le Jardin Retrouve 2016
Tubereuse Trianon by Yuri Gutsatz
Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Coriander, Ylang-ylang, Raspberry, Indian tuberose
There is a definite femininity to Tubereuse that is confident, composed and classic. I don’t know that I can place Tubereuse in an era of perfumery that it evokes. It is equally at home in Versaille on the décolletage of Marie Antoinette and misting the hair of one Mrs George Clooney on the shores of Lake Como.
It may be trite to mention, but I feel that the bottle supplied with the Le Necessaire pack that I decant my scent into does absolutely no justice to the scent. Tubereuse certainly deserves a bottle on par with Shalimar or No 5. It is much like Linda Evangelista being presented in hessian sack. That woman wore Chanel suits with aplomb in the early 90s! So too does Tubereuse’s beauty need to be symbolised by a statuesque bottle.
If you want to get some idea of what Tubereuse Trianon is like, Tocca’s Florence is a pale sister. Florence has a fruity undertone that makes the scent crisper and less creamy than Tubereuse. I know most Mecca stores will have a sample about.
Le Jardin Retrouve has €43/15ml and €4/2ml Samples
How do you feel about tuberose in perfumes? Are there some presentations of tuberose you prefer over others?
See you next time, sexy fraggie fumies,
Kate Apted xx