New Sniffs + Thunked: 3.1.2019




Hey Hey Perfume Junkies,

OK I’m adding a THUNKED section here too. It’s becoming an APJ obsession and I love the idea of us using our fragrances and hoiking the vial, decant or bottle. Thunk is the sound of an empty hitting the bin so you must empty it for the thunk to count.

Anything worthy of comment, either good or bad, that’s passed under my nose through the week will get a short write up. If I think something is terrible, shamefully lazy, greedy or stupid and you should know about it, it will be said. As always YMMV.

I’d love it if you get involved: agree, respectfully disagree, have any thought-out opinion and want to share, do so in the comments below. The point is starting a conversation.

New Sniffs + Thunked: 3.1.2019

I spent today between doing all my other stuff putting fragrance on different parts of my body. Paris at one point looked at me, sniffed and looked away. HA! VERY freaking fragrant by 5pm.

New Sniffs:

Style by M Micallef

A soft focus, sleek fragrance that manages to be warm and cosy yet aloof. Very neat trick. Beautifully composed, so sheer yet fully present, a warm aura of sophisticated scent. The note list hardly does Style justice because what we get to smell is a cohesive whole, rather than the parts. I think there’s one of those ubiquitous modern base accords underneath but how they’ve set it makes it shine freshly. I seriously like Style. There’s a tiny bit left in my sample that I am going to keep for later.

Cuir de Russie EdT by CHANEL

It’s a total misnomer to call CdR a New Sniff for me. I think there might even be a bottle of the EdT around here somewhere. A floral leather, dry yet supple. Creamy is a poor word analogy and smooth is too yet both reflect what I’m smelling. The jasmine and ylang work perfectly with the birch . How did I miss the luxurious nuance before? Maybe the heat iOS making a difference.


Amber Cashmere Intense by Parfums de Nicolai

This is a New Sniff and a Thunk. My 2ml spray had wasted away to about 1ml. I think I tried this when it arrived and I love it. Fluffy, powdery amber with a lightly animalic backbeat. Smooth and sweet, if ONLY Guerlain had taken a chance on Patricia de Nicolai they could have been releasing amazing scents like this right now.

Oajan by Parfums de Marly

Honey & osmanthus , what a wonderful combination. Cajan smells like it came from an Indie perfumer as it opens, so good and unusual. TBH I thought Parfums de Marly were mainly hype but this is excellent. The honey is met by sticky resins and a sheer patchouli, all overlaid with a hint of the salty fecal wash of ambergris. The heart is so lavishly warm and full of personality. WANT!

 Lily of the Valley by Penhaligon’s

Melon, grass, jasmine and slightly sharp geranium. Full review at Perfume Posse today.


Have you tried any of these? How did they work for you?
What have you sniffed or Thunked this week?
Portia xx

89 thoughts on “New Sniffs + Thunked: 3.1.2019

  1. Ha ha!!!! Love this !!!! Adding the THUNK 🙂
    Have only tried the Cuir de Russie and I actually thunked my decant of it as well as my decant of Black…I am working my way through my samples and decants to avoid evaporation 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

    • It’s YOU Brigitte who has brought about this made fabulous idea on Thursdays. I love the idea off getting the whole vial on my skin. 2ml is about 35-40 sprays, FRAGRANT!!!
      You thunked your CdR this week? How friggen spooky is that?
      Portia xx


  2. I’m really into Oajan! I have been comparing it to others such as Brecourt Haram, Ambre Narguile and others. Waiting to get my hands on Dolcelisir before I make a choice, but so far Oajan is winning. Apparently Palermo has an Oajan dupe as well, so that’s on the list.

    Liked by 2 people

  3. Good idea with the “thunking”, Portia. We’re mostly happy when we reach that stage. Yesterday I’ve thunked a sample vial of FM Noir Epices (I’d love to get a bottle some day) and today I’ll thunk Heeley’s Ophelia. It will be a historical Thunk because the perfume was meanwhile discontinued…

    Liked by 2 people

  4. Cuir de Russie yum yum, must spray more often! Makes me feel posh.
    Thunked a sample of Perris Monte Carlo Ambre tonight, in a bath with Laura Mercier Amber Vanilla bath foam stuff. Nice!

    Liked by 1 person

  5. Wheee, I’ve actually sniffed a few of your listed! Cute de Russie is the only Chanel I don’t own besides La Pausa; the leather note doesn’t love my skin.
    Oajan is lovely; I have Parfum de Marly Athalia, a beautiful powdery woody floral with iris. Might be my favorite iris.
    Amber Cashmere Intense is gorgeous! Definitely FB worthy!
    And now I want to sample Style! Sounds intriguing. My fave M. Micalef is Ylang Ylang, no longer available (only in the version gold).

    Liked by 2 people

  6. Hey, lovely Portia! Happy New Year!

    Thanks to you writing about it, I thunked my tiny Papillon Dryad sample and immediately ordered a decant. This may very well be my first full bottle purchase for 2019 when I’ve thunked the larger decant. Reminded me of Chanel No. 19 on steroids. Stunning!

    Liked by 3 people

  7. I love the thunking posts! I thunked a store sample of Tiffany & Co. Intense in the last week. True confessions time: I did that because I received a full bottle of it for Christmas. I’m about to thunk a decant of Jicky EDT, and I think a bottle of that is in my future. It is just so beautiful!

    Liked by 1 person

  8. The only ones I’ve tried off your list are Oajan and Cuir de Russie. Both were nice but not me.

    I am bravely planning to finish my decant of the wonderful and discontinued MDCI Enlèvement au Sérail this year. I have been hoarding it but would be heartbroken if it evaporated or went off before I used it up, so I’m just going to wear it, damn the torpedoes. Same goes for my decant of Azaguray Stoned and an old bottle of Guérlain Attrape-Coeur which appears to be oxydizing. I want to thunk all three this year.

    And I am planning on getting rid of nearly all my samples, by giving them away. I just don’t have time to wear them AND my beloved full bottles.

    Liked by 1 person

  9. It is highly difficult to ‘thunk’ a bottle when so many of my favorites come in 100 ml bottles. As for samples and decants, they are almost never emptied at my house, I give something a go and pass it on. If it is a scent I love, then I’m on the computer ordering a fb. I think the only ‘thunk’ I’ve done of a fb all of last year was a L’Occitane Citrus Verbena, but that is my travel/meeting go-to fragrance and gets hit up much more frequently than most on the shelves and is a recurring semi-annual purchase. Happy 2019 All! 🙂

    Liked by 3 people

  10. You know, I have never tried anything by M.Micallef. No samples have ever passed by me, but I have not sought any either. I keep hearing about the Ylang one though.

    I did thunk the last of the Christmas pudding.

    Tried Red Door Shimmer. That thing lasts DAYS on a card. Quite an okay scent, but longevity is outstanding! I left the card in my car, which gets mighty hot.


  11. This week i thunked a tiny sample of Eau de Missions by Couvent de Minimes. This was just a tiny sample. If you like some slightly alcoholic vanilla, then its really nice. At the moment trying to empty a 5ml decant of Bois d´Argent. Its not bad, but its a litte tame…


  12. The modern versions of cuir de russie are way different from the vintage cuir de russie (70s and before). The modern versions are chanel-5-o-fied while the original was pretty close to Knize Ten in style, with prominent birch tar.


  13. I’ve got a sample or decant of Oajan somewhere. I tried it and went ‘oh, I don’t think so’. I suppose I should look for it. Honey does not do well on my skin. Maybe that’s why?
    I thunked my first of 2019 today. Musc Maori decant. Gone. Unreasonably pleased with myself. Ahhh….the little things 😏

    Liked by 1 person

  14. I feel like I should like CdR and yet it never really does anything for me. I just thunked a sample of Cognoscenti’s Tomato Leather and may now need to get a bottle. The Carrot one is really good too.


  15. I’ve only tried Cuir de Russie. In fact, you’ve made me go and find my decant. As far as I know, there are quite a few Cuirs de Russie out there, or at least there used to be but Chanel’s is the only one I know. It’s some big no-nonsense leather!

    My new sniff was Darling Nikki Vilhelm Parfumerie. Fragrantica says it’s a leather fragrance but IMO, it’s close to the spicy vintage Tabu. Dana, however, is mild and well-behaved compared to DN.


  16. This year I hope to Use It Up with scented lotions in particular, but also to make a dent in the decants. Feel like there’s a pun in there somewhere, aka decant-dent. Never mind! Currently working on using up Chinatown lotion and a decant of Beige. Did not use up the decant of Cuir de Russie as it really did not suit, so that one was instead passed along.


  17. CdR EDT is a true love of mine. I am trying to go slowly on what I have–some left in an old square spritz bottle–without getting all gollumish about it.

    New things sniffed this week that my soggy brain can recall:

    Cire Trudon: Mortal (from a sample from Sandra). Soft, comfortable churchy frankincense and honeyed-myrrhish wax with a sprinkle of nutmeg and pepper. Yes, it smells rather like wearing one of their gorgeous luxe candles, And yes, that’s fine with me.

    Chris Rusak: io. This is a good non-church incense. That’s over simplifying it. It’s hugely evocative of hot light and deep shadows, with almost sticky pine sap herbal opening that opens up with layers of almost raw resins that layers in with softer, gentler incense and earth. Lots of smoke (but no barbecues) , and some of the salt of dried sweat on hot skin later on.


  18. NEST Indigo THNUK. Was okay but I wanted to LOVE it. Bah 😦
    NEST Wisteria Blue. THUNK. So familiar but I can’t remember what. I really enjoyed exploring the NESTs. but FB in of those.
    NEST Citrine should be a thunk but I’m hanging on the the last drop.


  19. I’m trying to thunk first and foremost body products now. Will finish a tube of Rituals The ritual of ayurveda body lotion today. Have also taken to using a night cream from YR as body cream, just need to finish it before it goes stale and it didn’t do much good on my face, but gives some hydration.


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