New Sniffs + Thunked: 7.2.2019




Hey Hey Perfume Junkies,

OK I’m adding a THUNKED section here too. It’s becoming an APJ obsession and I love the idea of us using our fragrances and hoiking the vial, decant or bottle. Thunk is the sound of an empty hitting the bin so you must empty it for the thunk to count.

Anything worthy of comment, either good or bad, that’s passed under my nose through the week will get a short write up. If I think something is terrible, shamefully lazy, greedy or stupid and you should know about it, it will be said. As always YMMV.

I’d love it if you get involved: agree, respectfully disagree, have any thought-out opinion and want to share, do so in the comments below. The point is starting a conversation.

New Sniffs + Thunked: 7.2.2019

Over 50 responses I will draw a Secret Scent Sample Pack (from my collection)

Last Weeks Winner: Crikey

eMail me at (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with your address please

New Sniffs:

Aoud Blanc by DSH Perfumes

In a saturated market of oudhs Dawn has done a small line of them. Aoud Blanc is a citrus and ambergris over that Montale style Band Aid/medicinal synthetic smelling Aoud. Michael was wearing Black Oud by Montale tonight and it was quite similar to my nose.

Palindrome II by Santi Burgas

Patchouli done in the sheer radiant style of the 21st century. It is surrounded by lovely smooth resins and given a sizzle from freshly cracked peppercorns. I think the green that runs through is angelica and cardamom, but it could easily also be galbanum. Whatever it is, it’s the green that makes this fragrance different and interesting, Santi Burgas is shaping up to be a really good house.

The Beautiful Ones by Keiko Mecheri

Tuberose . Not tuberose as you know it though. My nose is smelling narcissus, orange blossom and jasmine too. A clear clarion call of fragrance that cuts through your thoughts and leaves you adrift on a fragrant flying carpet. Imagine L’Artisan La Chasse aux Papillons done with fearless abandon, turned up 270%. It all collapses after about 30 minutes to a sheer white floral and amber tinged patchouli.

Leather Shot by Olfactive Studio

Leather and greenery, backed by a salty caramel peanut accord. This shit is freaking weird and I love it. The leather is exquisite, supple and suede-ish. Who knows where the rest comes from but it’s not mentioned in the notes. I want MORE!!

1957 by CHANEL

Starts out smelling all jasmine, neroli and aldehydes, becomes less interesting before turning into a cross between Jovan White Musk and Body Shop White Musk. It’s not terrible but just seems to be so safe, uninspired and boring. I admit that I smelled it in the perfume department basement of David Jones City Store which is under renovation and they have hit the sewer pipes. My nose was shutting down rather than working at full capacity. I will give it more skin time and report.


Santal Blanc by Serge Lutens

Thunked another old sample. It is pretty and cozy, bit sotto voce for my liking but I get why it has its fans. The sandalwood is lightly woody and creamy. I can smell a low key mens version of Samsara.

Have you tried any of these? How did they work for you?
Portia xx

90 thoughts on “New Sniffs + Thunked: 7.2.2019

  1. No thunking- I could have thunked the spray sample of DSH Colorado that American Perfumer sent me but since I violated my no buy for a bottle 😳 I decided to save it for someone else. (It’s limited edition, I had to buy it, right? Right??)


  2. I received my samples from Miller Harris. Powdered veil… Scherzo and Violet Ida.
    I’m not sure about Scherzo on me. A little bit too masculine. Both the others I really like. I also love the little boxes !!
    They were a bargain.. 3 for £5 and free postage (UK)

    Liked by 1 person

  3. I thunked full bottle of Dior J’Adore. Granted, it was the original from years ago which I wore a lot back then. I just finished the little bit left. I have a couple of the flankers so I won’t be replacing it, as beautiful as it is.


    • Also, Portia I’ve not sampled any of your new sniffs. However, I did blind buy a bottle of 1957. Because, Chanel. I’ve read enough positive reviews to believe I’d like it as addition to be Les Exclusifs collection. And I don’t have anywhere to pre- sniff it where I live.


      • Woo Hoo! Yes, you can rely on CHANEL. I almost bought a bottle today myself, it needs more skin time though. I’m trying to buy things that I’ll really want to wear a lot.
        I think 1957 could easily have fit into the EdC range released last year, Deauville, Bairritz and the other one.
        Portia xx


  4. Haven’t tried any of the perfumes you’ve reviewed here, Portia. Leather Shot seems great (anything with leather does, lol).
    No new sniffs or thunked samples this week: I’ve been a very lazy perfumista this week.


  5. My first “thunk” of 2019–a 7.5 ml travel spray of Atelier Cologne “Pomelo Paradis.” I laid it on pretty thick yesterday and finished it off today, dreaming of the tropics, it is below zero where I live.


  6. Nothing new and no thunks here. Just a very contented week of wearing favourites (and I am at peace within my low buy guidelines when I snapped up a 95% full bottle of Onda VdP from a good eBay seller I’ve dealt with before…because my Onda decant is getting dangerous close to thunking, and I hate the idea of avoiding wearing it for fear of running out.)

    Nice surprise on the draw, thank you Portia!

    Liked by 1 person

  7. New sniff this week courtesy of PPP, thank you awesome Portia.
    My first try was JHaG Liquid Illusion. This is a pretty delicate musky floral. It’s easygoing and inoffensive. I’m not getting the powder from it, is this the illusion😉. Today’s tryout is a horse of a different colour, Marc Antoine Barrois B683, smells like traditional men’s scent, it’s really nice. Definitely peppery and lightly spicy with heat from the chilli. There isn’t a leather note listed but I can detect some, a dry leather. Liking this a lot.
    And one thunk, OJ Champaca. The last of my travel set from 2012. Remember the day I purchased it in the Bond St. boutique.


  8. Sorry to say, that was my EXACT response to 1957 too. Even my bored eldest son got his interest piqued, took a sample, sniffed and was unimpressed. He said it was the least interesting of the samples I had spritzed that morning.

    My hopes rose to the heavens with the Keiko. Then crestfallen.

    I am excited by Guerlain’s new Aqua Allegoria line up. Three new ones about mid year. Cherry, coconut and I forgot to note the third. And Mon Guerlain Rose is due March 3rdish in Oz.


  9. I thunked a sample of Memoir Woman, used approximately 4 sprays from the mini sprayer. Boyfriend was a bit complaining, but as i got out of the house some minutes later, i don’t care. The first time testing i didn’t like it at all, now i am smelling more of the bitter notes and not too much of the big white flowers. I think i will try the Voyage Woman tomorrow.


  10. Hahahahahahahahahaha. You will have a bottle of 1957 and a back up before we know it. I can’t wait. Tomorrow ……
    I gave my trainer a couple of Deauville samples. That will have to be a thunk. ❤️


  11. Thanks Portia for your reviews, Leather Shot sounds most worthy of a sniff, or two!
    New sniffs for me – Vince Camuto EDP – i really only picked a sample coz of the pretty bottle – its a nice, floraly number,but not too floral and not too sweet. Probably not me.
    Also sniffed Lorenzo Villerosi Spezie – i get a spiced, ginger cola fizz.
    Thunked, or gifted some D&G The One perfume and lotion, G Armani Si body lotion, some JPG Classique and a little sample Burberry Body. I asked a lady in our office what perfume she was wearing as she smelt lovely – she said D&G The One. I had some that i haven’t worn in ages so decided to be a perfume fairy.


  12. This week I played safe, wearing old favourites. Then today I am faced with an armload of papers to fill out just so I can teach a few ballet classes at a performing arts high school here. Talk about over regulated! So I opened a sample of Montale Aoud Safran. I am fortified!


  13. I haven’t tried any of these, though Leather Shot has my attention!
    I just tried to organize my samples and decants and had to throw away at least 5 evaporated decants. Also put together two bags of samples I either don’t love and some others I’m not even inclined to try and Get Them Outta My Space. Posted a giveaway to hopefully delight some perfumista out there.
    Thunked my last sprays of Iris Nazarene today, too. I liked the decant but don’t need more.

    Liked by 1 person

  14. I had lot of expectations from Olivier Polge since he has created the best perfume (Dior Homme) of the 21st century in my opinion. But so far, his work at Chanel has not really been encouraging, as evident by your experience with 1957 also.

    Liked by 2 people

  15. Thunked a sample of cuir sacre from atelier des ors. I’ve enjoyed it a lot, the leather note inside screams quality for my nose. But tell us more about that Leather Shot :))) Everybody is curious right now after your “weird” description “salty caramel accord with leather” hmmm 😋😋


  16. Positively swooning in Naja, second wearing so almost a new sniff.
    Yesterday I discovered I have a vintage 80’s no 19 parfum spray in my collection. How could I forget this gorgeousness? It feels as if I’ve been given an unexpected gift!


  17. Zero thunks for me. Wearing my collection. Did some new sniffs the old-fashioned way since I am on a sample buying restriction. I was downtown dropping off some documents and ducked into a department store to feed my addiction to new sniffs.
    Tested Mugler Over The Musk. Smelled like the trampy girls in high school. The ones who’d already ‘done it’. Probably with the entire football team. Headed over to Chanel. No exclusives at this particular store so tried Allure. Very meh. Allure Sensuelle. Very, very meh. Gabrielle was a yawn fest. Over at Hermès Calèche Soie de Parfum was surprisingly nice. A rather old school aldehydic floral tamed down for modern sensibilities. It’s the only one I bothered trying on skin. It wafted just the right amount for a surprisingly long time. Nothing earth shattering but very enjoyable. Finally the disappointment that is the current Miss Dior. No words.

    Liked by 2 people

  18. Blind-bought a bottle of Chypre-Siam by Rogue Perfumery (etsy), which is a really vintage-like Chypre with lots of REAL oakmoss, jasmine, citrus and ylang. The perfumer writes, that he uses the real stuff and does not follow IFRA. Don’t know if its true, but it smells like the real deal. I ordered some samples too, because – shipping to EU is expensive, so a few more dollars for samples don’t count???

    Liked by 1 person

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