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Val the Cookie Queen
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Hey there APJ!
Welcome to 2020. New year, new direction. I am not doing written perfume reviews any more. Well, that is not quite true. Once in a while IF I find something that I think amazing, then I will. What I am gonna do is pick perfumes and the review will be contained in the two or three photos. Add a line or two, job done.
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Kate Apted
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Welcome to APJ!
In researching the link between architecture and perfume, a lot is made of linking a smell with a place, or trying to recreate the scent of the inside of a building. I think it is too far a literal understanding of the two. I believe there is a more subtle joining that allows each their artistic and symbolic existence aside from the other, yet in mutual complimentarity.
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Portia
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Hey there APJ Crew,
Holy Hectic this week has been a lot. Sweaty humid hot weather then ferocious downpours. Hot/Cold/Hot/Cold it’s driving me a little more bonkers. Loads going on too. Fragrance, friends, work, food, art, fun and SHOPPING have been the order of the week. Managed some quiet Jin time in there too.
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Portia
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Hello Fellow Fumies,
At APJ we have a Saturday Question. Everyone gets to chime in with an answer, chat with other responders and it’s a fun event each week. Taking sides never means taking offence and everyone keeps it respectful and light, even though we can sometimes trawl the depths.
The idea is you’ll see it on the weekend or chime in through the week. Hopefully you will come back regularly and see if anyone has responded to your comment and you can reply to them. The aim is to generate real conversation and connection even though we are scattered around the globe.
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TinaG
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Hi APJ,
Any new Comme des Garcons fragrance is bound to cause a stir in the fragrance community, and Concrete is no exception. I was intrigued, as I enjoy industrial notes in fragrances and was excited to see what this may entail. Then I started hearing rumours that the fragrance was actually a sweet woody floral. Huh? How does that work? After reading some of the press releases, it is exactly how it was supposed to be.
Candy Perfume Boy gives these featured accords:
Sandalwood, Rose Oxide & CDG Spice Signature
So, my preconceived ideas were quickly demolished when I sprayed Concrete on skin. First impressions were of a sweetness, a pink floral with green undertones. There’s a pepperiness to the sillage and I realise the green note is cardamom, one of my favourite aromatic spices. The pink floral has an initial wateriness to it and it reminds me of cactus flower. There is a distinct CdG signature hovering in the background of a quirky synthetic, which my mind associated with a pink dishwashing liquid. After about 10 minutes I get a plastic rose note, and pink lolly musk.
As an aside – you know you are Australian when you can easily differentiate between variations of pink musk. It is a common ingredient in many sweets – musk sticks, musk lifesavers, and Fruit Tingles which have slightly different citrus flavours and the prized “multi-coloured” tingle. So when I’m talking in this case about pink lolly musk, I’m referring to musk sticks. I’m sure these are available in other countries but they don’t seem to be globally ubiquitous.
PDI
The fragrance settles and loses the cardamom, to feature plastic rose and the musk. Then I lose the plastic over 2 hours for a residual musk-rose which stays for the remainder of the dry down. There is supposed to be sandalwood in here but I can’t find it, and I thought that the sillage was quite low until I met up with a friend for coffee. She immediately identified that I was wearing a CdG, and she could smell the sandalwood. I think that I just don’t have enough experience with sandalwood notes when they have been disintegrated from each other, whereas my friend has much more perfume-creating experience than I, and clicked on to the smell immediately.
The main selling point of this fragrance is the aesthetics of the packaging – the funky bottle made out of concrete is a winner, and the familiar shape will slot neatly into any CdG collection. I’d recommend leaving expectations behind when testing the fragrance – as, really, you should with any CdG. I’d also be curious when this becomes more widely available to see what people think of the paired-back sandalwood note. Currently (August) Concrete is available at Selfridges in London, and Dover Street Market in New York City and London, but I understand it will be distributed more broadly during September 2017.
PDI
Further reading: Candy Perfume Boy and Persolaise
Do you have a favourite CdG scent?
Till next time,
Tina G
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Portia
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Hey APJ,
Today I’m using up the last of my decant. It wasn’t a big one but I really liked the idea of smelling spacious today and emptying anything around here is cause for quiet rejoicing.
Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Frankincense, pine tree, chilli pepper, violet, cedar, iris, Hinoki cypress, birch
Cold, woods, wax, emptiness. It’s like you can feel yourself transported to a huge cathedral empty of humanity in the dark of night. There is something completely spacious about Zagorsk, so much room that the scents become thin, as if they are memories.
Isn’t it interesting what comes to mind to write about. I was at a funeral yesterday for the father of a girlfriend I’d had in our mid teen years. I arrived about 40 minutes early and the Anglican church was quiet, cold and smelled a little like Zagorsk. There was the scent of incense burnings long past, candles burning, wooden pews waxed brightly by a century of cloth covered bottoms and the scratchy crackle in my nostrils of decades old dust. I spent about 10 minutes wandering through the two adjoining chapels and reminisced about my friend, our group, the amazingly fun times we had in their lavish old sandstone mansion in the best street in our suburb (by far). We were all so fearless, funny and beautiful.
Zagorsk is not a big scent. Most of the notes in it are blended way beyond my ability to parse for you. What I get more than a fragrance is a memory scent. Memories of getting to Catholic churches as a child/teen an hour before to sing in the schoolboys choir for mass, weddings, christenings and anything else they needed us for. It’s a feeling of expectation for me. The hurry up and wait, often in poorly warmed old buildings , and having time to reflect on stuff while looking at poor old Jesus stuck eternally on the crucifix.
Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and Now Smell This
Harold’s in Australia has the Incense range in store
LuckyScent has $95/50ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $6/ml
What do you wear that feels cool, airy and reflective?
Portia xx
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Portia
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Hey there Fragrant Family,
This week has gone by in a blur. Where did it bloody well go? Wasn’t I just posting the scent Diary last week a minute ago?
Having said that the week has been really good mainly, loads of great fragrances, friends and food. Can’t complain about that.
Lazy morning answering Australian Perfume Junkies comments. We hit the 150 comments mark for the Saturday question this week so one lucky commenter will be getting a $20 Surrender To Chance GIFT CERTIFICATE! I’m really happy about that but my typing finger is a bloodied stump. Yes, I do all this with one finger every week. Pathetic, I know.
We had a few things on the agenda for today but only a few got done. First Jin & I went and had pizza & pasta at Gioia in Leichhardt on our way to the Redfern apartment where my BFF Kath lives to fix the lights under the kitchen cupboards onto the benchtops. I love that kitchen.
While we were there we left her belated happy Mother’s Day present. I think she loved it. Who doesn’t need new flaps?
Had a few deliveries. Of course they all come at once when I ordered them over a month. Decanting supplies from ProudStyle, LuckyScent order, bought a used Frederic Malle Musc Ravager from FaceBook and lastly a nearly full vintage DIOR Diorella EdT that has gone a bit stale from the CFCs/propellant. Still, it’s not ruined but it is not pristine either. It also leaked a bit in transit and its silver at the sprayer is going nasty.
It’s only 1.40am, and I’m finished my Trivia Q&A. Woo Hoo! I did get some prep work done the other day so all my games and jackpot were already written. The daily Q&A was also ready to be done so having done a couple of hours work before i am much more ready.
OK spritzing Carner Barcelona RIMA XI, cleaning my teeth and going to bed. Night.
This morning was sunny and warm so I went for Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur. It arrived in the mail and I REALLY wanted to give it an outing. So warm and cuddly, a real furry fragrance. It was delicious while walking the dogs in the sunlit morning.
Went and saw Kath’s Mum at the rehab centre. we finally got her to sit outside in the warm air today to have lunch. She looks 100% improved.
Tonight I was having a hard time deciding what fragrance to wear for work and the candy stripes of my Cacharel Scarlett travel size caught my eye. It was a perfect choice and got some compliments. Happy frag day.
For SOTBed I wore Serge Lutens Arabie. Sweet spicy chutney and dusty desert in a bottle. Perfect for floating away upon.
Jin cooked Korean pancakes this morning. they are pancake batter filled with nuts and melted brown sugar. You have no idea. Sorry I have no photo but they were delicious.
Jin and I went to our local IDAHoT 2017 event. International Day Against Homophobia and Transphobia. There were a group of our mates up at Parramatta to support the cause, the Police Band played with a sensational singer, there were speeches and the raising of the Rainbow flag outside our historic Parramatta Town Hall. The sun was shining and it was a fun way to spend lunchtime.
Jin wore Serge Lutens Muscs Kublai Khan and I was wearing Annick Goutal Grand Amour. As you can see my bottle is nearly empty, has changed colour and looks like it’s on its last legs. Nope, smells as good as the day I bought it. MMMMMMM
When I got home we watched the last two episodes of Sense8. Absolutely heart stopping drama, loved every second.
Tonight in honour of Greg Young’s extra special Guest Post I’m spritzing the cool, fresh elegance of CHANEL Pour Monsieur, bought from Robert Herrmann in his sale. MMMMMMMM
Wore Guerlain Samsara extrait today. Not sure exactly how old it is but it smells so much like my Mum that I’m feeling disoriented. Total mind fuck for a while.
Jin and I did some garage reorganising. He put a cupboard on the wall that I have wanted up for nearly two years, we moved some furniture from the house down there too. This place needs to be a little more streamlined to be fully zen.
Tonight I went crazy with the Agent Provocateur EdP. I enjoyed every inhale and it has lasted for hours and hours.
After work my car got a flat tyre. Had to call the Roadside Assist and I was still in full drag. He was so unconcerned and absolutely sweet. He fixed it all, chattered a bit and we went on our merry ways. Thank you NRMA. It was a super nice experience, and he took less than 20 minutes to get to me and get it fixed.
Tonight I’ve spritzed Parfums DelRae Coup de Foudre. It goes beautifully over the Agent Provocateur EdP. Ready for bed. Night.
WHAT A DAY! Got up and walked the dogs quickly where the Cockatoos are playing headstone angels.
Then caught a bus & train headed into Sydney city to meet with some perfume geeks.
Ingrid, Gino and Tim were my adventure accomplices and we had a wonderful time. Ingrid is down in Sydney from the Gold coast for her birthday so we celebrated in high style. Starting with coffees in the David Jones Food Hall and a quick sniff of the niche fragrances on display in store.
Then we moved on to Harold’s in City Westfield. We met Gino & Tim there and had a wonderful time looking at the high fashion, niche fragrance and accessories. I caved and bought Series 3 Incense: Ouarzazate Comme des Garcons, which I have had small decants of but was out. Roman and Andy were our SAs today but gorgeous Andy got the purchase. Gagging for the fun Balenziaga bags, REALLY want one.
It was definitely time for lunch and a lazy Prosecco at David Jones Food Hall. We ate at the cheese and antipasto desk. It was wonderful fun eating, sniffing and chatting.
Then we hit Mecca in Myer and were served by Ken, the sexy bearded French hottie. Sadly I already owned everything in the store I want. It was super fun chatting fragrance with them though.
Also we got to see my next boyfriend Louis at the Libertine stand in Myer. I bloody wish he had something i wanted to buy. As we were leaving I did tell him I am coming back soon to get his number and go eat. He is sweet and charming.
At Men’s Biz Ingrid bought Tauer Lonestar Memories. A purchase she had long been pondering, great choice for her. The guys there are so friendly and knowledgable. It’s always a pleasure but sadly they don’t stock my shave soap anymore. BUM.
Coming home on the train & bus I was overwhelmed by how much fragrance I had on. Like I was fumigating the bus. Because we’d tried so much on I think I was bathed in 10+ niche fragrances. Poor people on the bus. It was too much even for me.
This morning dawned cool and wet. Jin got home from work at 5.30am. Unusually I woke up and was 100% ready for the day when he got into bed so I jumped out of bed and came to my computer to get some blogging done. Fed & walked the dogs through the wonderful Autumn wispy drizzle. It was heavenly, the dogs loved it too. Had a little cuddle with my baby boy Paris and spritzed some M.O.U.S.S.E. by Oliver & Co. from their Discovery Set that’s left me softly sizzling with a bright, metallic clove. Beautiful.
Off to Pedi with my BFF Kath, hopefully we’ll have lunch too.
Yes we did. Popcorn Chicken and Dumplings for lunch. Sorry I didn’t take a pic but we were chattering so much that I completely forgot.
Spent the evening at home with the dogs watching TV and getting stuff organised for next week. Very quiet and peaceful. Perfect.
3am. So, I’m in bed. I’ve just got the sheets warmed to perfect with my body heat. It’s comfy and cuddly under the doona.
Then I realise I forgot to spritz for bed.
QUANDRY! Do I stay here and wish I hadn’t or get out, spritz something and lose my heated cocoon?
THE STRUGGLE IS REAL
My long time buddy, since we were teens is coming for a champagne brunch this morning. Doing a little cleaning and pottering around the house before she comes. I love how the house feels with Jin sound asleep in the bedroom and me just going about the cleaning rituals. I’m burning an Ainslie Walker for MudAustralia Candle to make the house smell like flowers instead of old men and dogs.
I did Bacon, French Toast and Golden Syrup, Percolated coffee and Verve Mimosas. It was wonderful fun chatting and laughing. I’m so lucky to have these two beauties in my life.
On my person I have spritzed Perfumerie Generale 25 Indochine. Beautiful, sweet woods. Balmy, Smooth.
Bathe and off to work. DIOR Mitzah and lashings of it. While driving to work I was absolutely overwhelmed by it. So lavish and glamorous. Here’s a pic at the end of the night with Kim R and Anna-Maria. These girls are the bomb, I love them to infinity.
So how about you? How was your week? What frags did you wear?” Did you do or go anywhere interesting?
Share please in the comments.
I love to read about your lives too.
Portia xxx
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TinaG
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Hi APJ!
It’s tea-time. I thought I’d share with you a quick snap-shot of a few of my favourite tea fragrances.
This collection of five fragrances is a touch-stone for anyone wanting to explore tea scents. Green, white, red, blue and black, they are all magnificent colognes. Au Thé Rouge, with pink pepper and roobios tea, is probably my favourite. It’s followed closely by Au Thé Bleu that replicates a sparkling blue summer sky in my mind, with oolong tea notes, lavender, iris, peppery shiso and has its longevity strengthened with the use of musks.
CdG Tea is to Bvlgari Eau Parfumèe what saddle leather is to suede. With notes of lapsang souchong and thick mate (pronounced maa-tey) it is dark, smoky and heady. More for the experienced ‘tea’ lover. I absolutely hated it the first time I smelt it, but was so intrigued that I kept going back it it, and ended up buying a bottle. (Welcome to my world….)
Well this could be considered a mix of two teas – herbal osmanthus flower, and black tea from the Yunnan Province, China. The osmanthus is the star of the show with its apricot floral notes softly supported by a gentle very slightly peppery black tea. It’s linear but beautiful. I wore this all the way through the Christmas/New Year period – light, elegant, easy in the summer heat and not overwhelming for social meet ups.
Chai is the perfect comforting tea scent, with its milky mix of warm spices and a touch of rose in the dry down. It’s being inside on a rainy day all snuggled up with a blanket, fluffy jumper & great chai tea. Yuuuummmmmm!!!
This fragrance is a joy to wear, particularly because it has at least four distinct changes through the drydown – a treasured feature in my mind. I absolutely love the mint in the opening of this fragrance. It is black tea and spearmint, with hints of black leather closer to the skin. At 1 hour an incense comes through, and at two hours I find a wonderful dark honey note. Then at around four hours it goes funky & animalistic. Wow. Why do I not have a full bottle of this?
What are your favourite tea fragrances?
Have a great start to your week!
Tina G xx
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Post by Ainslie Walker
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Hi fragrant friends,
In the lead up to Christmas and a change in seasons, we’re seeing an influx of new releases…including Grace by Grace Coddington.
We’ve been waiting an eon to smell Comme des Garçons and Grace Coddington’s fragrance. It was released April 2016 overseas and late August in Australia, exclusive to Mecca nationwide.
As April came and went I observed some ‘spoilers’ on Instagram etc, however all I really knew was there was a cat connection and I had also heard it was rose based. Grace has been obsessed with roses since her English childhood experiences in rose gardens. She used to wear Floris’s Red Rose as a teen.
I have a soft spot for Comme des Garçon’s edgy fragrances. How might they ‘shake up the rose’ for Grace? Roses are well loved and Grace spending more than a decade with her finger firmly on the fashion pulse means it should really hit the nail on the head. [NB for those who do not know, Grace was Vogue’s Creative Director for at least a decade and before that a model, originally from England. If interested you can find out more about the fashion icon from her book, Grace – A Memoir or by watching The September Issue movie.]
Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, Mint, Basil leaf, Cardamom, Pink pepper
Heart: Moroccan rose absolute, Freesia, Peach blossom
Base: Vetiver, Cashmere wood, White musk, Crystal amber
On first whiff its light, fresh, rosy and white musk, with some transparency. Second whiff deeper rose notes with an impression of freshly laundered towels. Sweetness, maybe juicy peach. Sparkle..maybe green pepper, or still the fizz of laundry powder. What I see in my minds eye is; a rose growing on another planet wrapped in a thick clean towel, warm from the dryer, looking at the twinkling stars.
The lovely Grace bottle, designed by Fabien Baron is actually a cute, sophisticated cat. A heavy bottomed, curved – almost egg-shaped glass bottle. The lid is a weighted silver metal ball with little ears. A little drawstring bag features illustrations by Grace herself. VERY handbag friendly. The bottle feels lovely in the hand. There’s that swoony weight / balance thing…sigh.
Who would wear this? I recommended it as a gift for my friends’ daughter’s 18th, however the fragrance is not limited to a younger audience. I think the lightness, elegance and playfulness of a flirty cat is captured and who does not want to smell like that some days?
You could wear it to work, dates or outdoors. There’s a cosy feel to it…and yet a watery luminescence too. A nod to old-fashioned English rose scents, but interpreted in a more lasting, modern way. At no point does it feel thin, however for me longevity is medium – one that I would top up midway through my day.
Ainslie with Paul Weller
Further reading: Now Smell This and Wallpaper
Mecca in Australia
A year ago I reviewed Miu Miu, another feline involving fragrance – a kitten was used in the adverts. Are we seeing a ‘cat lady’ trend forming?
Have you tried this new release? Have you any other fragrances with a feline theme? Purrrrrr!
Until next time! XX Ainslie XX
(Ed: All photos by Ainslie unless otherwise noted. Cool pics love. XX)
Ps a little English Rose song by “my mate” Paul Weller for you to enjoy whilst reading:
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Post by Ainslie Walker
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Hello fragrance fans, I’ve realised some members of my fragrance collection have become a fragrant first-aid kit for my more common ailments. Grabbing fragrances based on how I am feeling physically, loosely based on the aromatherapeutic properties of their notes, cheers me up no end.
*Please note all the below has only been tested on one human being, no animals and are not recommended without perhaps some other medications, where prescribed
Photo Stolen Fragrantica
Nausea – Etat Libre d’Orange – Like This – full of carminative baked ginger cookie smell this warm combination can ease waves of nausea like no tomorrow. Dosage: spritz on stomach 2 x per day
Photo Stolen Fragrantica
Insomnia – Crawling into bed and suddenly my eyes pop open and my brain comes alive with activity!! So I reach for Aqua Allegoria Lavande Velours by Guerlain, which stays, on my bedside table. Sprayed onto my pillow and sheets the powdery combination of lavender, iris and sandalwood takes me off to the land of nod in no time.
Photo Stolen Fragrantica
Muscular Aches, Pains and Tension – Sycomore by Chanel Les Exclusifs Earthy vetiver and grounding sandalwood I just love this fragrance sprayed just above a hot steamy bath, or when I’m feeling “extravagantly ache-y” a capful poured into the bath does wonders for ridding my body of all tension, aches and pains.
Photo Stolen Fragrantica
Run Down and Generally Germy – Potpourri by Santa Maria Novella’s mix of Italian herbs rosemary, thyme, patchouli and cloves make this an immune booster for those days when you know you’re coming down with something. Despite some prettier notes of carnation, bergamot, and peru balsam this fragrance smells deliciously medicinal and purifying.
(Side note, the Santa Maria Novella Collection will soon be available from Peony Melbourne)
Photo Stolen Fragrantica
Chills – Serge Lutens – Jeux de Peau warms me up and makes me feel cosy and comfy. Almost like having a cup of hot milky tea and a massage with the warmest of warm hands. Use this fragrance when you feel chilled to the bone. A few spritz 1-2 x per day, once sprayed it just keeps on getting better and better as osmanthus reveals itself amongst the warm baked bread and buttery toasted coconut notes. Divine!
Photo Stolen Fragrantica
Sore Throat – everyone knows a teaspoon of honey with cinnamon and spices soothes a sore throat and Mitzah by DIOR is the queen bee that soothes mine. Dosage: Spritz throat/chest area and wrap neck, where possible, with a leopard print scarf to stay warm and glamorous.
Photo Stolen Fragrantica
Headache – nanah mint features in Comme Des Garcons’ Play Green and applied to my temples and back of neck it cools and refreshes when I have a headache. Supporting notes of Basil, lime and juniper mean even when I am brain fatigued and lacking concentration this fragrances helps put some life back into me.
I think you can find samples of all of these at Surrender To Chance<<JUMP
So my fine fragrant friends tell me if you too use fragrant for your ills and if so in what combinations?
Xx Your Fragrant Nurse, Ainslie ;D
Australian Perfume Junkies 