The Ashes: Australia's Most Famous Perfume Bottle?

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Post by Greg Young

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At the turn of the 20th Century, as Australia headed inexorably to independence and nationhood, one of the wealthiest and most influential people in the colonies was Janet, Lady Clarke. Even by today’s standards Janet Clarke was enormously wealthy; an article published in 2004 estimated her fortune as the equivalent of $2 billion dollars . She was the wife of pastoralist Sir William Clarke who owned large estates in Tasmania, Victoria and Queensland, as well as much other property. After William died in 1897, Janet inherited his fortune.

The Ashes: Australia’s Most Famous Perfume Bottle?

800px-Ashes_Urn_1921Photo Stolen Wikipedia

Such was Janet Clarke’s prominence in the colonies that artist Tom Roberts included a portrait of her in his famous painting of the opening of the first Australian Parliament. Significantly, Roberts places her close to the first Prime Minister, Edmund Barton, right next to Barton’s daughter. Not bad for a girl born on a station in Tallarook who worked as a governess before marrying.

Lady_Janet_Clarke_circa_1880Photo Stolen WikiMedia

Janet Clarke was a noted philanthropist, founding the first Australian women’s university college, kickstarting the career of Nellie Melba and establishing the Australian Women’s National League, the second-biggest political organisation in the country (after the Australian Labor Party). After she died in 1909 at the age of 58, a rotunda was built to her memory in Melbourne’s Queen Victoria Gardens, which can still be seen today.

Lady Janet Clarke Memorial Pete Dowe Road Safety AdvocatePhoto Stolen petedoweroadsafetyadvocate

Janet Clarke and her husband Sir William built a massive and luxurious mansion in East Melbourne called Cliveden, on the site where the Hilton Hotel later stood. The Cliveden mansion commanded what would have been a stunning view over Yarra Park, the MCG and the river. Sir William was President of the Melbourne Cricket Club, and that probably played a big part in our story. The Clarkes entertained lavishly at Cliveden, and the house was much admired. Confectioner Macpherson Robertson made many fruitless offers to buy the house. During the crash of the 1890s, Janet used the kitchens at Cliveden to feed the poor of nearby Richmond and Collingwood.

The Clarkes also owned a huge country house called Rupertswood, near Sunbury, which is still in existence; today it is a hotel. This is what Rupertswood looked like in the 1890s.

Rupertswood_circa_1890Photo Stolen WikiMedia

Sir William and Lady Janet hosted many important guests at Rupertswood, notably the Duke and Duchess of Cornwall when they came to inaugurate Parliament in 1901. Many years before they entertained royalty, in 1882, a visiting English cricket team captained by Ivo Bligh stayed at Rupertswood.

On Christmas Eve 1882, a social cricket match was played at Rupertswood between the English players and a team made up of Rupertswood staff and guests. The English won and, perhaps as a joke, a servant burnt the bails and the ashes were put into a little cosmetics bottle, which Janet Clarke presented to Ivo Bligh as a memento of his visit.

Janet Clarke’s bottle was about 6 inches high and made of red terracotta. It was in the shape of a classic amphora, with squared off handles.

That little urn is now known as The Ashes.

Ashes_Urn WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

For more than a hundred and twenty years since, international Test cricket series between Australia and England have been referred to as The Ashes. It is ironic to think that, for all her wealth, influence and philanthropy, one of Janet Clarke’s most enduring contributions to Australian history is her little perfume bottle.

What do you think? Is this the most famous perfume bottle of them all? Do you know of another historic perfume bottle?

CHANEL S-S 2015 Making Of Video

Hey All,

Recently we showed the CHANEL S/S 2015 Haute Couture show. Here is a little snippet of what it took to make those fabulous gowns the 3D extravaganza that they are. If you love seeing some of the tricks behind the scenes then you will be mesmerised by this 2.34 minute video.

I hope you enjoy,

Portia xx

chanel spring summer 2015 haute couture twitterPhoto Stolen Twitter

CHANEL S-S 2015 Haute Couture Collection

CHANEL S-S 2015 Making Of Video

Une Voix Noire by Christopher Sheldrake for Serge Lutens 2012

Hey there APJ,

This is what I wrote about Une Voix Noire in a mini review. With more wear my views have changed, not hugely but a bit.

Une Voix Noire by Serge Lutens: Gardenia done with a berry intro and a dark breathy dry down. A boozy gardenia that sits quietly on my skin, extremely beautiful, sensual, exotic and alluring but a close set beauty that has good sillage but not too strong projection. Excellent movie or theatre choice.

Une Voix Noire by Christopher Sheldrake for Serge Lutens 2012

Une Voix Noire Serge Lutens FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

 

The stars rise in chorus. The night sky is filled with the light of the moon.

Une voix noire : jazz, drinks and the night, and, beyond all that, a troubling line of white, gardenia-scented smoke.

GOSH! This is an extremely polarising fragrance. Made in honour of Billie Holiday, the sultry voiced chanteuse whose life was grim, grim and tortured. She was abused, a drug addict who came from very little and ended up with tragedy. Yes, her voice was velvet and she sang so heartbreakingly because her life was what it was and so she could sell her pain and angst in song. How does Une Voix Noire bring this life and voice alive?

Hairspray, booze and white flowers to open, that fabulous old fashioned hairspray that they called Lacquer. It is still used by Drag Queens to hold our wigs firm for months. The white flower is not at all Gardenia to me but a mix & match of all the white flowers and there’s a plastic/make up feel like the swipe of an expensive lipstick over a heavily powdered greasepaint and pan-stick. These smells are a Drag Queens stock in trade, so beautifully woven together in Une Voix Noire. I can imagine this being a part of how Billie Holiday would smell after a performance, there is something very lived in about Une Voix Noire.

Une Voix Noire Serge Lutens Billie_Holiday 1946 WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

The heart feels sweaty and floral, white flowers and some wet-ish lily of the valley or peony perhaps. I’m getting a herbal back beat but no idea what it or they are, it’s sweet green and a little spicy and I think some buttery ylang goodness floating through too. Sweet white flowers, not sugared but like marzipan is both sweet and not sweet, actually there is a mintiness and the whole heart has a very interesting smell that reminds me of those fake teeth you used to get, remember? They were so fun to pretend you had these glamorous buck teeth in ultra white.

Sadly I miss out on most of the smokiness and Une Voix Noire stays pretty linear after the heart merely warming through with some sweet resinous vanilla/amber but still over the top is this white flower, not living Gardenia but kind of a drug store fragrance simile to it, and hairspray.

Une Voix Noire Serge Lutens Sydney Queens WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

From my description it reads like I don’t care for Une Voix Noire, you couldn’t be more wrong. I freaking LOVE it. The lasting power is not so great for me though so I rarely reach for it to leave the house for work or play. Maybe I’ve used four or five of my 10ml decant that I bought in a split from AndreaW ages ago. When I do wear it I love it sick though.

Further reading: Now Smell This and
Une Voix Noire is available in the Exclusives line from Paris, Barney’s New York (I think) and online at Serge Lutens
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/.5ml

How do you feel about Une Voix Noire? Is it one of your Serge Lutens favourites?
Portia xx

Arpege Parfum (Vintage) by Andre Fraysse for Lanvin 1927

Heya Scented Sniffers,

I bought this bottle from Odona on Etsy. They are reasonably priced and when one of their frags had leaked about 70% of its contents in transit they gave me a refund on it. They are very nice people and their frags are fabulous.

Arpege Parfum (Vintage) by Andre Fraysse for Lanvin 1927

Arpege Parfum Lanvin FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, aldehydes, peach, orange bloom, honeysuckle, orris
Heart: Rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, coriander, sensitive plant, tuberose, violet, geranium
Base: Sandalwood, vetiver, patchoulis, vanilla, musk

Arpege, I know that it was worn by some of the Aunties but it was definitely seen as being for the younger or quieter of them when I was growing up. The louder or more mature were wearing Giorgio, Shalimar, No 5 and Poison. Sometimes, though the memory is faint, I do remember seeing the famously ridged glass atomiser bottle with the black bakelite cap come out of purses for resprays. There is something very soft, and soft focus, about the Eau of Arpege. Today though I would like to chat about the parfum.

Arpege Parfum Lanvin Berthe_Morisot Young_Girl_in_a_Ball_Gown WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

I think my top notes are about to turn, they are a good deal less sparkling and radiant than they should be, but less than a minute in the gorgeous thick and rich scent comes alive, so many aldehydes that it’s almost oily in its intensity. Fruity and thick like the syrup from a can of peaches but more pronounced, more effervescent and way more lavish. A thick sinuous rope of fragrance that is hefty enough to lift you up and carry you away.

Multi-faceted Arpege parfum, so many flowers and fruits, herbs and aldehydes all mixed together in a less sophisticated bouquet than CHANEL No 5 but giving a girlish laugh, nod and wink in its direction. Fascinating in its various hues and gilded like a Klimt painting, imagine the perfumer looking at this one of Adele Bloch Bauer 20 years after it was created and Jeannie Lanvin asking the perfumer to recreate it in scent. And that’s what we have, a big fragrance by today’s standards that is filled to the brim with beautiful notes yet lives as one perfectly cohesive and elegant fragrance.

Arpege Parfum Lanvin Adele Bloch Bauer Gustav Klimt Krishna FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

After the fireworks of the opening subside and we are well into the heart of this vintage Arpege parfum I find myself transported back to my youth and cuddling some of the Aunties who smelled so fabulous.

I only dab so I’m not ridiculously fragrant but I a sweetly perfumed and would be a bit overwhelming in most modern workplaces I think. Though this is so good and lasts so long that I think it would be an excellent day out frag, you’d still be smelling gorgeous even after a huge day of picnics, art galleries or shopping. I have been dabbing myself on Saturdays as we continue the search for our new home and it is a welcome relief from some of the smells we’ve encountered along the way.

Further reading: Now Smell This and Non Blonde
My Perfume Samples has current EdP $6/5ml
Vintage Arpege Extrait is still widely available on Ebay & Etsy

Portia xx

Giveaway Kesha&CoPhoto Stolen Kesha&Co

Arpege Parfum (Vintage) GIVEAWAY!

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 1 winner who will receive:
1 x Arpege Parfum (Vintage) sample
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Tell me an Arpege memory? Do you have one? Any scent your Aunties wore then?

Extra Chance?
Tweet: Arpege Parfum (Vintage)     

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 8th March 2015 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Thursday 12th March 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

 

 

Fragrances of the World 2015: 31st Annual Edition

Hi there APJ Crew,

Every year a new and improved version of our Fragrance Bible is released by Fragrances Of the World. This years cover is the prettiest shade of mint green ever and I can’t wait to add it to my collection. The cover is the least impressive thing about this book though. Michael Edwards knowledge and years in the industry are what makes this so special.

Portia xx

PRESS RELEASE

Wednesday, February 25, 2015

Book Launch:

Fragrances of the World 2015

The Fragrance Bible ®

31st Annual Edition

Fully Revised and Updated

In 2014, more than 1600 new perfumes appeared on the market. How to keep track?

Fragrances Of the World 2015 Front Cover Hi Res

Fragrances Of the World continues to be the leading guide for fragrance classification. Universally regarded as the ‘bible’ of perfumery, independent and impartial, unsurpassed in both its research and scope, this is the definitive reference trusted by perfumers, executives, journalists, retailers, collectors and shoppers worldwide.

“For me, Fragrances of the World is more than a guide book,” says Sumit Bhasin, Head of P&G Prestige’s Creative Development team. “It is the reference book for our industry. Michael’s in-depth knowledge combined with the very factual and up-to-date of fragrance references, makes it the go-to guide. Both the book and the online databank are widely used by my team.”

Hanuš Wolf, owner of Burgins Perfumery says “The guide has proved an invaluable sales tool. I introduced the Fragrance Bible as a tool to offer a level of service previously unknown to York, and within the first week alone, the incremental sales more than paid for the Fragrance Bible.”

Michael Edwards 2015

It all began 31 years ago when fragrance expert Michael Edwards created an annual guide to help perfume retailers advise their customers. The book organises perfumes into 14 fragrance families – including Woods, Oriental, Floral, Fruity and Citrus – and even more subfamilies from which to choose. Refreshed weekly the online databank provides current and up to date details on new launches, while the annual guide book is an iconic sales tool with current and historic references at your fingertips.

Around the world people are consulting Fragrances Of the World:

“You wear J’Adore by Dior? Now let’s see. That’s a citrus fruity floral. You should try In Love Again by Yves Saint Laurent.”

“Your enduring favourite is Terre d’Hermès? That’s a crisp woods. Try Spicebomb by Viktor & Rolf.”

“Your signature fragrance is Chloé but would like to try something new for day wear? That’s a classical rose floral. La Fille de Berlin by Serge Lutens is the new one for her.”

More information: Fragrances Of the World

Lucky Essential Oils for Chinese New Year – Year of the Goat/Sheep

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Post by Suzanne R Banks

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2015 is the Chinese Year of the Wood Goat. Also referred to as the Sheep, this year is a more congenial year for everyone, with a very social aspect. It is a good time to nurture creativity and to work with others to help fulfill your goals. The goat is a social animal, happy to get along with others and go with the flow.

We may see a burst of creativity internationally, in art and fashion, and a growing focus on sustainability in all fields of life. Contentment in familial relationships will help us to be happier with ourselves and in all our relationships too.

Lucky Essential Oils for Chinese New Year

Year of the Goat/Sheep

Chinese New Year Nenga-Goat-2015 OpenClipArtPhoto Stolen OpenClipArt

The essential oils that I love for everyone in this goat year are:

Patchouli – grounding and earthly ,peace, world peace

Ylang Ylang – release anger and frustration, an oil of love

Pine – inspirational, abundance through others, connect to mother nature

62/365 - Good health and good fortunePhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Each animal sign in the Year of the Goat, will respond to challenges differently so why not use an essential oil this year as your good-luck piece of scented magic?

The Rat

Your year ahead – new opportunities, a better year than last year, take care of your health

Your lucky oil – fennel

The Ox

Your year ahead – increased work load, be more organised, avoid risks

Your lucky oil – rosemary

The Tiger

Your year ahead – creative ideas abound, be more focused, enjoy taking action quickly

Your lucky oil – petitgrain

The Rabbit

Your year ahead – plan ahead, look within to find what you love to do, help others

Your lucky oil – cedarwood Virginian

The Dragon

Your year ahead – you are in high demand, enjoy the NOW, travel

Your lucky oil – ginger

The Snake

Your year ahead – be flexible, consider your own needs, have courage

Your lucky oil – palmarosa

The Horse

Your year ahead – busy home life, listen to friends advice, work with others

Your lucky oil – mandarin

The Goat

Your year ahead – be realistic, make connections with new people, enjoy many social occasions

Your lucky oil – lemongrass

The Monkey

Your year ahead – have fun, ride the ups and downs with joy, new enterprise

Your lucky oil – cypress

The Rooster

Your year ahead – seek balance with rest, improve your lifestyle, be moderate

Your lucky oil – lavender

The Dog

Your year ahead – improve your psychic abilities, patience, accept newcomers

Your lucky oil – basil

The Pig

Your year ahead – popularity abounds, become entranced in projects, improve spiritual practices

Your lucky oil – frankincense

Chinese New Year Chinese_Dragon WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Which Chinese zodiac animal are you? How will you use your lucky oil this year?

Best wishes to all my lovely readers and bon chance!
Suzanne R Banks xx

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Revelation! My new book out now

Please check out my new book REVELATION! – Reveal Your Destiny with Essential Oils

Amazon USA      Amazon AU      Amazon UK

David Mallet Shampoo + Conditioner

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Post by Ainslie Walker

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The case of the unscented shower:

While I was in Melbourne recently Jill from Peony Melbourne popped a David Mallet shampoo and conditioner sample in one of my bags. I had no idea what the hype was about the Mallet products, but since Peony only sells the best and Jill’s hair continually looks healthy and shiny, I was definitely going to give them a try.

David Mallet Shampoo + Conditioner

makethumbPhoto stolen Peony Melbourne

Without reading up on them I jumped in the shower and lathered up. Something was weird. At first I didn’t comprehend what it was. SILENCE!

GASP!!

Halfway through my shower I realized: It was completely UNSCENTED!!

I don’t now how long it’s been since I have had a scentless shower, but it was relaxing…incredibly so! Fantastic even!

My poor nose is on the go almost 24/7 sniffing for scents, so the 5 minutes (I’m on tank water…) I spent washing my hair suddenly felt meditative! No distractions I was right in the moment “Zen-ing out” as I lathered my hair.

Water_Tank_in_Roaring_CampPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

IT FELT WEIRD!! Like an eerie silence in a place that’s normally so noisy.

It was only after as I mulled the experience over in my head that I also realized that if I were anosmic that would be my showering experience (and every experience) EVERYDAY. Just my thoughts and I, no scents to distract me and take my mind away from the moment. Is that what scents are for us? Escapism?

After a little research I learn Hairdresser David Mallet is originally Australian and now is based in Paris. He does all the celebs hair and works for all the top fashion magazines for their shoots. It’s always fab to learn about Australians who are doing so well overseas!

makethumb-1Photo stolen Peony Melbourne

What other scentless products do you use? Has anyone else used any effective scentless hairstyling products? What are your favorite scented beauty products? Do we have too many scented products all-screaming to us from our bathroom shelves?

Perhaps there is a time and a place to enjoy the “silence”

David Mallet is available in Melbourne and mail order from Peony Melbourne

Ainslie Walker x

Hedonist by Cult of Scent

Heya Perfume Junkies,

I have a small sample of Hedonist. There is no note list online and the brand is so fledgeling that I can’t even find a website for it. There is a Cult of Scent Facebook Page but it doesn’t have a price list, just some beautiful pictures, a couple of meetups and some fragrant knowledge exchange. I don’t even have a picture of the bottle for you all. To be perfectly honest I did not even purchase these scents, my mate Casssandra gave me some tiny test samples that I have put into spritzers.

Hedonist by Cult of Scent

Cult Of Scent

So I do know that Jocelyn is the perfumer though I’m yet to meet her, she is a Sydney based perfumer and very pretty. I spent some time in the delicious citrus/white flower/green extravaganza that is Cult of Scent’s Magnolia ’13 a while ago and loved it sick.

So Hedonist, it opens slightly citrus and balmy but what immediately knocks on my olfactory door is leather. Slightly tar-ish, smoky, woodsy leather. New leather before it’s been made into its final product, the act of walking into a leather shop and being greeted by hundreds of skins in their multi-hued entirety. Hedonist is not big but it does have a fairly ferocious opening on my skin. More Lonestar Memories than Cuir d’Ange if you know what I mean, but not really like Lonestar Memories at all. Michael Borg just told me that the hefty darkness is probably oud assisted, now that he mentions it I tend to agree.

Hedonist Cult of scent VIC_River_Downs WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Hedonist is a bitter brew yet behind it I smell softness, a creamy something, a white flower. Michael says it’s the tiare flower, he could be correct, I am just going to say creamy white flowers and maybe some lactonic fruit like fig. No matter what it is the smell is beautiful, exquisite, both hefty and during the heart also pleasantly sheer. Wearable to most occasions where people are happy to have you scented, and not overpowering enough to preclude it from dining or the movies. Very wearable.

Hedonist Cult of scent book BonnyBBX PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

The Middle East? A little tease of an introduction to it, yes. A soft core, wearable beauty. Hedonist? Not nearly as overblown or outrageous as I was expecting though towards dry down it does become quite animal and lived in but so soft that it could really be you, just warmer and sexier. GGGGRRROWLL

What fragrance would you call your Hedonist fragrance? For me I think Songes by Annick Goutal, Guerlain’s Shalimar and Parfum de Maroc by Aftelier. These hold something big, overblown and indulgent. What’s yours?
Portia x

Miss Dior 2015: Natalie Portman: Mini Movie

Aha! Hey gang,

I was not crazy about Miss Dior really but recently my mate Natalie from Another Perfume Blog (now defunct) gave me some vintage Miss Dior Cherie and I have to admit it rocked my socks off.

miss Dior 2015 Natalie Portman YouTubePhoto Stolen YouTube

As always Natalie Portman is perfect in her role. This time as the grand daughter of the super wealthy. DIOR has done a wonderful job dressing her and the sets.

Enjoy a couple of minutes of pure escapism.
Portia xx

Miss Dior 2015 – The new film (Official Director’s Cut)

Pichola by Neela Vermeire Creations 2015

Hey Hey APJ,

Guess what arrived in the mail Friday morning!! Neela has sent me a sample! WOW! WOW! WOW!

Pichola by Neela Vermeire Creations 2015

Pichola with Bertrand Duchaufour

Pichola Neela Vermeire Creations fragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Cardamom, cinnamon, saffron, juniper, magnolia, neroli oil, clementine, bergamot
Heart: Orange blossom absolute, rose absolute, tuberose absolute, sambac jasmine, ylang-ylang
Base: Benzoin absolute, sandalwood , driftwood, Haiti vetiver

As you may know India is somewhere I have spent a lot of time, 15 visits so far and hopefully back there again in 2016. Of all the beautiful, magical, amazing spots that my last partner Varun and I saw (and BFF Kath too in 2008) Udaipur is right up there in my Top 3 beside McLeodgang (where the Dalai Lama is in exile) and Agra (where the Taj Mahal is). When we stay in Udaipur we stay in the Taj Hotels Lake Palace on Lake Pichola. It’s pretty close to heaven. When Kath & I stayed in 2008 we were upgraded to a gorgeous, water view suite with 3 rooms. Incredible.

Pichola Neela Vermeire Creations Udaipur_Lake_Palace WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

From Wikipedia: …built between 1743- 1746 under the direction of the Maharana Jagat Singh II (62nd successor to the royal dynasty of Mewar) of Udaipur, Rajasthan as a royal summer palace and was initially called Jagniwas or Jan Niwas after its founder.  The palace was constructed facing east, allowing its inhabitants to pray to the Surya, the Hindu sun god, at the crack of dawn. The successive rulers used this cool haven as their summer resort, holding their regal durbars in its courtyards lined with columns, pillared terraces, fountains and gardens.

Neela has worked with Bertrand Duchaufour to recreate the play of light across the waters of Lake Pichola, the luxurious feeling of being part of the majestic history of India’s Maharajas yet with all the mod-cons that make current day life comfortable. Water in the desert, which Udaipur’s state Rajasthan is, is not just beautiful it is life. Twice, that I know of, since the turn of the century Lake Pichola has been bone dry with crops and livestock growing.

I have only had one wear of Pichola but I will say that is you love white flowers then Pichola is going to blow you away.

I will review Pichola in the next week or so after I have worn it a couple of times and have a real feel for its loveliness. Does it remind me of Lake Pichola? Well it certainly is as rich and luxurious as staying at the Lake Palace.

Neela will be revealing Pichola in Milan. I wish I was coming to hang with you all there.

Portia xx