Guerlain: Sylvaine Delacourte in Sydney: Photo Essay

December 3, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 11 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

Hello lovely Perfume Junkies!

How are you all coping in the slippery slope into the festive season? Have you sent your fragrant orders to Santa? Have you been naughty or nice?

I have a confession: I couldn’t wait! I just bought a bottle (with a free additional bottle) of Sylvaine Delacourte’s new Florentina from her new La Collection Muscs. (An independent side project, i.e. not Guerlain)If you’ve not tried them, go on her website and pay a tiny 4 euros and order the sampler – then it’s a one off buy one get one offer on a full bottle – irresistible!

Sylvaine Delacourte Adventures Down under!

We had the pleasure of greeting Sylvaine Delacourte in Sydney in November – THE QUEEN BEE OF GUERLAIN. She really is personable, fun spirited and of course extremely talented and knowledgeable in person. Hopefully you’ve had a chance to read my interview with her for APJ while I was in Paris in October, which fills you in on all things Sylvaine Delacourte.

Guerlain: Sylvaine Delacourte in Sydney

Photo Essay

Cosmax, the distributers for Guerlain in Australia hosted a lovely lunch in Paddington at the Four in Hand Hotel for press and important people like Michael Edwards from Fragrances of the World. Here we ate and drank amongst beautifully set tables full of flowers and bee bottle factice. Sylvaine talked about her more than 20-year history with Guerlain and she held the group captivated. It was also at this lunch the newest Guerlain Exclusif was launched, Neroli Outrenoir.

Table setting at the Neroli Outrenoir launch in Paddington

Michael Edwards and Sylvaine Delacourte

Guerlain Bottle Porn

Now available instore – David Jones – the exclusives collection is to die for and worth popping on your list to Santa. I bought myself Angelique Noire (the greenest one) when I was in Paris, however I have popped pretty much the rest of the collection onto my wish list. DEELICIOUS! The core theme is Sylvaine’s desire to showcase raw materials in unexpected spotlights so the gardenia is presented in a lacey way. In Cuir Beluga we have leather, however it is more of a light soft caress of suede rather than something tart from a tannery. Neroli Outre Noir’s magic lies in the top notes seeming to remain throughout nearly the whole dry down. Any perfumer will tell you this can almost only happen by pure MAGIC. Notes of combined citrus, orange blossom, smoky, earthy tea for me also makes it a win.

Angelique Noire I bought in Paris in Septermber!

Bee bottle Factice from table setting to swoon at

Lily of the Valley that was on my table setting at home in my Mud vase!

Sylvaine then spent a few days upstairs at David Jones level 7 where she did a question and answer style talk for VIP’s and the Sydney Perfume Lovers Meetup Group. In addition and a highlight for me were two workshops where participants created their own Guerlain-esque floral fragrance. After learingin all about the raw materials from Sylvaine herself! I spent the entire time with jaw on the floor, inspired and absorbing everything. How lucky we were to have her visit and share this wonderful insider knowledge and experience!

Have you experienced the Exclusifs range? What are your thoughts and favorites?

Xx until next time! XX Ainslie XX

Melbourne Launch of Penhaligon’s Portraits Collection

November 29, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom

Post by Portia

Heya Melbourne crew,

Nick from Libertine Parfumerie asked me to pass along this invitation to you guys for Wednesday 30th November. It looks like it will be a fabulous evening and a great way to get your sniff on the newest range with the outrageous brass animal caps. You can see my reviews of the Penhaligon’s Portraits Collection. RSVP dan@agencedeparfum.com.au cost is $49/person redeemable against cost of any of the Galerie de Parfum range.

Portia xx

Melbourne Launch of Penhaligon’s Portraits Collection

Fragrantica

By Kilian Launch in Harrold’s Sydney

October 20, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 4 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

By Kilian has finally graced Australian shores, exclusive to Harrold’s Sydney and Melbourne. By Kilian was originally launched in 2007 by Kilian Hennessey.

Kilian hails from a long heritage of cognac makers and gained his interest in perfumery through a curiosity of “the angels share;” the mysterious percentage of alcohol, which disappears during cognac’s aging process. He studied with perfumers Jacques Cavallier, Thierry Wasser, Alberto Morillas, Calice Becker and worked with perfume houses including Dior, McQueen and Armani.

Luxury and beauty is the core of the brand but there is an edgier side too exploring daring themes such as forbidden pleasures and addictive states of mind. With Kilian citing “perfume should be a messenger who opens a thousand doors in the memory” we can sense his passion. He believes a great perfume is firstly a great story, which evolves into a fragrance, comparable to film making, in that a director cannot make a film before first writing the script. Packaging states “Perfume is an Art” but Kilian says it should also have a conscience, therefore all bottle a are refillable and can be kept and reused for a lifetime ecoluxe philosophy:

By Kilian Launch in Harrold’s Sydney

I shimmied into Harrold’s, Sydney to have a long awaited sniff. The shelves looked gorgeous in black and white while packaging glistened opulently, obviously inspired by art deco.

First smelling Straight to Heaven and Liaisons Dangereuses, both florals from the L’œuvre Noire collection. These contain the highest quality and most expensive raw materials in perfumery today. The goal was to create a collection with no limits to imagination or price. The scents are inspired by art and literature working around themes of love, its prohibitions and temptations.

Asian Tales collection is a spiritual olfactive journey inspired by traditional Asian folklore. The red adorning the bottles and boxes salutes Chinese culture and considered a lucky color. The silver coin amulet with eight letter k’s engraved on it, dangling from a red tassel is intended to bring success to the fragrance wearer. I smelt Bamboo Harmony, the only citrus fragrance from the brand.

In the Garden of Good and Evil explores carnal sin and is supposed to manifest sexually charged desires. A jeweled clutch featuring a snake protects the bottles and doubles as an evening bag, even fitting an iPhone! I smelt woody In the City of Sin, floral Good Girl Gone Bad and floral oriental Forbidden Games.

The most recent released collection, Addictive State of Mind nods to the highs of olfactive dependence and give a sense of escapism. Containing ingredients such as coffee, tobacco and sugar Intoxicated, Light My Fire and Smoke for the Soul are all classed as wood fragrances and are all so tempting!! The packaging is a heavy and solid keepsake and reminiscent of a vintage cigar box.

Have you been down to experience the collections? Have you tried them before? Tell me some stories of your encounters with By Kilian brand!!

L'Occitane Launch May 2015 with Scott Steward

May 17, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 10 Comments

Hey crew,

Monday was a great morning to L’Occitane. Scottt Steward and I trolled down to the Sydney Observatory area and couldn’t find the damn place so I just kept driving till we came across it, AT LAST! Greeted with drinks and some easy finger food at arrival we were wowed by the lovely transformation that the L’Occitane crew had given a very white old-school hanger of an art gallery. There was colour and bunches of real flowers everywhere.

L’Occitane Launch May 2015 with Scott Steward

I apologise that I didn’t get more crowd and happening shots but one of the Sydney Beauty Society Mavins was really rude to me as we arrived and It put me a bit off my game. Not to be deterred we listened to the beautiful French General Manager of L’Occitane Australia Caroline LeRoch who welcomed us and introduced the new Australian face/brand Ambassador of L’Occitane, Australian TV & Radio star Sami Lukis who chatted with Lucy Primrose, international project leader and skincare innovator at L’Occitane.

The spiel was interesting, the finger food delicious and most of the company fun and friendly. The L’Occitane crew are a great bunch of girls and my mate Lesley Bowen the loveliest of them all.

And the swag?

The last photo is the ABSOLUTE FREAKING WINNER! An oil based make up remover that takes every skerrick of my drag make up off in seconds, including waterproof mascara. First time in my life I’ve woken up without PANDA EYES! Thank you L’Occitane.

Portia xx

PS Most of these photos I took but some were donated by L’Occitane after I asked for extras.

Romano Ricci and the Aussie launch of Gentlewoman for JHaG

April 21, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 15 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

Romano Ricci and the Aussie launch of Gentlewoman

Breathe in deeply next time you put your nose near someone who is wearing fresh clean cotton clothing on a warm day, especially if they are wearing a citrus-based Eau de Cologne, like 4711, underneath. That innocent clean cotton scent mixed with citrus, a hint of musk and highly intriguing pheromones is largely my experience of Gentlewoman, the newest fragrance by Juliette Has A Gun.

Last month “We” (Clayton – What Men Should Smell Like, Catherine – Sydney Perfume Lovers Meet Up and Portia Turbo – APJ) met with Romano Ricci in Sydney, thanks to Agence de Parfums (Libertine Parfumerie). We started chatting as champagne was poured, with Romano requesting a ‘piscine’ – champagne on ice – apparently the “In” drink amongst champagne guzzlers in Europe. Romano was lovely, hilarious, and super handsome (we all noticed..!!) Easy to talk to, I enjoyed the facts he shared with us.

Romano does not like to talk about his “fragrance royalty” lineage, however we all know Nina Ricci is his grandmother – I found this picture(<JUMP) I think they look so similar!!

Romano initially avoided working in the fragrance industry, spending 10 years exploring alternatives, including racecar driving, however he was eventually drawn back to his roots. Romano has since forged his own unique pathway, developing his brand alongside a perfumery apprenticeship of sorts.

In 2006 the Juliette Has A Gun concept was born with Romano wanting to shake up the current world of Niche Fragrance. He wanted to “throw a rock in a pond” and become the alternative niche brand for fragrance connoisseurs. He describes his branding as “dynamic and punchy with the composition and quality of ingredients falling into niche.” Colette, one of the coolest stores in Paris, quickly became his first stockist.

Romano only wanted Francis Kurkdjian as his perfumer and asked him initially for two modern rose flower scents. Romano had no creative role in these and spent his time compounding (mixing) for Francis. The outcome was; Lady Vengeance; the sexy, deep rose. Strong, dark, sexual and powdered. Rose, vanilla, patchouli and musk provide a vibe of strong, sexually confident woman/man to me. AND Miss Charming contrastingly, the very pretty, innocent rose with its fresh dewy fruit-rose notes.

Romano felt ready to be the perfumer for the next release. He aimed to modernize aldehydes; he loves the volume and sophistication of fragrances such as Chanel no 5. It took 1.5 years to make the “chypre aldehyde with animalic dose” (fragrantica). Of the process he swears he “will never do it again, it took away part of my youth!!” I predict one day we will see more from this naturally gifted perfumer.

He explained his best selling, Not a Perfume, rumored to be just 1 ingredient, is in fact a musk molecule combination which is intensified with slowly developed back notes. The juice is macerated for 16 weeks!!

We asked why Calamity J had been delisted and Romano said “the fragrances decide and this one did not work” I have never smelt it and I am sad I may never get the chance!

Have any of you smelt any of the Juliette Has A Gun frags? Favourites? What did you think?
Ainslie Walker XX

Fragrances of the World 2015: 31st Annual Edition

March 6, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 1 Comment

Hi there APJ Crew,

Every year a new and improved version of our Fragrance Bible is released by Fragrances Of the World. This years cover is the prettiest shade of mint green ever and I can’t wait to add it to my collection. The cover is the least impressive thing about this book though. Michael Edwards knowledge and years in the industry are what makes this so special.

Portia xx

PRESS RELEASE

Wednesday, February 25, 2015

Book Launch:

Fragrances of the World 2015

The Fragrance Bible ®

31st Annual Edition

Fully Revised and Updated

In 2014, more than 1600 new perfumes appeared on the market. How to keep track?

Fragrances Of the World continues to be the leading guide for fragrance classification. Universally regarded as the ‘bible’ of perfumery, independent and impartial, unsurpassed in both its research and scope, this is the definitive reference trusted by perfumers, executives, journalists, retailers, collectors and shoppers worldwide.

“For me, Fragrances of the World is more than a guide book,” says Sumit Bhasin, Head of P&G Prestige’s Creative Development team. “It is the reference book for our industry. Michael’s in-depth knowledge combined with the very factual and up-to-date of fragrance references, makes it the go-to guide. Both the book and the online databank are widely used by my team.”

Hanuš Wolf, owner of Burgins Perfumery says “The guide has proved an invaluable sales tool. I introduced the Fragrance Bible as a tool to offer a level of service previously unknown to York, and within the first week alone, the incremental sales more than paid for the Fragrance Bible.”

It all began 31 years ago when fragrance expert Michael Edwards created an annual guide to help perfume retailers advise their customers. The book organises perfumes into 14 fragrance families – including Woods, Oriental, Floral, Fruity and Citrus – and even more subfamilies from which to choose. Refreshed weekly the online databank provides current and up to date details on new launches, while the annual guide book is an iconic sales tool with current and historic references at your fingertips.

Around the world people are consulting Fragrances Of the World:

“You wear J’Adore by Dior? Now let’s see. That’s a citrus fruity floral. You should try In Love Again by Yves Saint Laurent.”

“Your enduring favourite is Terre d’Hermès? That’s a crisp woods. Try Spicebomb by Viktor & Rolf.”

“Your signature fragrance is Chloé but would like to try something new for day wear? That’s a classical rose floral. La Fille de Berlin by Serge Lutens is the new one for her.”

More information: Fragrances Of the World

Creed Aqua Originale Collection: Sydney Launch

February 17, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 9 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

My last “perfume mission” for 2014 was when I met with Erwin Creed who was in Sydney in December launching Creed’s Aqua Originale Collection at QT. Erwin is the 7th generation Creed to work in the Creed family business, established in 1760, he will eventually take over from his father and perfumer, Olivier Creed. The packaging states, “From father to son since 1760” which is very touching and amazing because it’s true.

Photo Donated Ainslie Walker

Creed Aqua Originale Collection Launch

Erwin Creed in Sydney at QT

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

There are 5 in the new collection that Erwin guided me through, and here’s my evaluation:

Iris Tubereuse I instantly loved, with its top notes of galbanum, orange and violet leaf; middle notes of tuberose, lily-of-the-valley and lily; base notes of musk, orange blossom and vanilla. I found it a deep and fresh green tuberose (as if tuberose and lily of the valley have just been cut) and only in the drydown did the iris come through for me amongst the reasonably prominent orange blossom. It is strong, but dewy and water drenched. I feel very beautiful wearing this.

Vetiver Geranium has top notes of granny smith apple, bergamot and lemon; middle notes of geranium, cinnamon and rose; base notes of patchouli, cedar, musk and amber. It is marketed towards men, however I have worn this frequently during the hot Australian summer. Best jaunt was an afternoon garden party because on my skin, it starts so fresh -perfect for a hot day. Geranium stays in the forefront, the apple and rose come to play with hinting at amber and cinnamon and the vetiver and patchouli just hang back, which is perfect partying on into the evening.

Aberdeen Lavander with it’s strange spelling mistake and top notes of bergamot, rosemary, lemon and artemisia; middle notes of lavender, lily, tuberose and rose; base notes of patchouli, leather and vetiver, is unusual yet beautiful, perhaps the most interesting of the collection. Rounded notes of tuberose. Sweet gourmand coumarin make the sweetest rosemary notes I have ever smelt, and these all peak through gentle citrus wafts. A distinct nod to the classic Guerlain Jicky here- I would love to compare them. The leather and shy lavender fascinates and is kind of soapy…my father used to use Imperial Leather’s soap in the 80s – perhaps that’s why. Dry down is gorgeous.

Cedre Blanc is more robust citrus woods and herbs, and to me, more traditionally masculine than feminine. It has top notes of bergamot, cardamom, galbanum and bay leaf; middle notes of geranium, lily and jasmine; base notes of cedar, vetiver and sandalwood. I immediately experience the galbanum and citrus sewn together with bay, but something, almost oakmoss is lurking…I am guessing a big dash of Calone. The geranium is crisp and natural but I am not getting the normally dry scent of cedar. Overall I expect it to become super strong, but it would actually be a good office scent, with all the nuances of the fragrances men often cannot wear in offices without overwhelming their colleagues – and definitely more natural smelling. I would love to smell this on a man.

Asian Green Tea Erwin says, was released for the Asian market being light, fresh and sweet citrus with top notes of bergamot, mandarin orange, lemon and neroli; middle notes of violet, green tea, heliotrope, rose and black currant; base notes of sandalwood, musk and amber. It has the freshness of citrus without the bitterness, perhaps from mandarin. I pick up a rock melon scent and with the heliotrope/vanilla it’s like tropical icecream in parts. My skin then pumps out the tarty blackcurrant atop of an amber and heliotrope cocktail. The drydown brings more green notes; I think it’s the neroli and finally the green tea rearing its head. Fresh and gourmand, no woods and definitely not linear – do try!

Photo Donated Ainslie Walker

Surrender To Chance has the Creed Aqua Originale sample set $24/5 x .5ml

Overall I find the collection to be uncomplicated with ingredients being of high quality. Scents feel very natural, asides from the tubereuse and Aberdeen lavender, which are more surreal and hypernatural. What’s your favorite?

Ainslie Walker x

Agent Provocateur FATALE / FATALE PINK launch

November 18, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 6 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

Hey APJers, remember recently, that night, full of heavy rain, flash floods, sideways downpours, thunder, lightening and hail in Sydney? That night I attended the Agent Provocateur Fatale fragrances launch at Carousel Bar in Kings Cross.

Agent Provocateur FATALE / FATALE PINK launch

Entering the club in my water-filled heels, I was spritzed with FATALE PINK fresh and light it struck me as different to the Agent Provocateur fragrances I already knew.

Gathered were TV personalities from The Bachelor, foodie Rick Stein, beauty editors, PR people and Fragrances of the World lovelies, Anna and Virginia. We had a giggle, ate canapés and “stalked” Rick together – he partook in a 30 minute conversation with us about fragrance, flavors, travel and food – a highlight of the night.

Newly designed bottles were on display, a big change from porcelain curves of past fragrances. Marketing blurb says the facets reflect the many sides of a woman’s personality…not at all original, but pretty. Boxes are indented stylishly, a nod to fishnet stockings and very Agent Provocateur!

In the background, a seductive Agent Provocateur film was projected, staring Monica Cruz. The evening was relaxed, glamorous and cool.

Fatale by Jean-Marc Chaillan for Agent Provocateur

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Pink pepper, black currant, mango
Heart: Patchouli, orris, gardenia
Base: Vanilla orchid, musk, chocolate, labdanum

Mango- juicy and ripe, in a bed of vanilla, and chocolate, hinting at seduction but not as sultry and distinctive as expected. Pink pepper fizzes with the mango. Blackcurrant, tart with a dollop of cream. Patchouli? I’d say a touch of maltol / fairy floss in there too. Musk and orris come out to play after 30 minutes or so. Lasting power of 4 hours. It’s fun, I suppose it’s sexy, but not in the way Agent Provocateur’s first fragrances were- they were naughty and daring. Agent Provocateur has stepped into mainstream terrain. Within an hour I am reminded of Coco Mademoiselle. I have none to hand right now to compare, but somehow it nods in that direction…fresh, fruit, sweet and isoE!

In “the naughties” I was a party girl living in London – out EVERY night- obsessed with Agent Provocateur underwear. Gifted Chanel’s Mademoiselle and I wore it, a touch of fun glamour. Today I am more likely to be wearing Chanel clothing and add this fun Agent Provocateur fragrance on top, nodding back to those fun days!!

Fatale Pink by Jean-Claude Delville for Agent Provocateur

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Tangerine, pear blossom, yuzu, whipped cream
Heart: Datura flower, white camellia, pink lotus
Base: Bamboo, musk, black saffron

This fragrance was released for the Asian market and they’ve nailed it! I would wear this on a hot humid day, it’s watery and light. I love the pear notes. Gritty like tinned pears. The other notes give a pretty, white cream floral and fresh blur. Tangerine gives soft citrus. It’s easy to wear, easy to gift, clean, perfect for summer. Unobtrusive. Hours later there is a surprising sudden floral peak. There is a “thinness”- I think pink lotus has that effect, but with cream, and interesting sounding notes like saffron and datura I would expect a denser scent. Enigmatic and glamorous could describe this, but seductive? Introverted, innocent seduction- a hugely new direction for this usually racy brand. Perhaps we are to experience the many facets of seduction and provocation from this brand? From innocent, pretty and clean, right through to hot, foxy and downright naughty!!

Ainslie Walker x

Spring into MYER, Sydney City – Launch of Gallerie de Parfum

September 10, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 24 Comments

Righto!!

It seems we are loaded with wonderful, fun, exciting and new learning experiences Spring 2014. We have the SOLD OUT 1 Day Masterclass with London’s Karen Gilbert: evaluator from IFF and perfumer for many brands on September 20, Michael Edwards Masterclass last week and Meet-Up and now a new reason to get excited, the launch of a new niche counter in Myer; Gallerie de Parfum.

Spring into MYER, Sydney City – Launch of Gallerie de Parfum

HOSTS: Nick Smart (Agency de Parfum), Portia Turbo (Tranny About Town)

WHERE: Gallerie de Parfum counter. MYER, Sydney city

WHEN: 5.30pm September 24 2014

COST: FREE

How about a sneaky champagne after work? Why not come and play perfume with us?

A mini masterclass from Nick Smart and Portia Turbo on our three favourite scents each in the Gallerie de Parfum. It will be a fun way to get to know some perfumes that you may have missed, meet some other lovers of fine fragrance and most of all it will be an excellent wind down after a stressful day of whatever it is you do. Nick and I will be picking some fragrances that we have in our collections and talking you through them, it’s always nice to share our passion.

We are having 10 people at this event so be very quick.

Sensationally lavish goodie bags valued at over $100 for anyone who buys a 100ml fragrance from the range.

Also, there will be a FULL BOTTLE of L’Artisan Parfumeur: Explosions d’Emotions Range GIVEAWAY for one lucky shopper.

RICHARD LÜSCHER BRITOS Terroir 44°N 03°W EdP by Andy Tauer 2013

December 11, 2013 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 28 Comments

Post by Val the Cookie Queen

Before we start please hop over to my piece on Olfactoria´s Travels for an introduction to Richard Lüscher Britos (RLB) and their fabulous natural perfumes.

Yuletide Greetings APJ Peeps

RICHARD LÜSCHER BRITOS (RLB)

Terroir 44°N 03°W EdP by Andy Tauer 2013

Photo Stolen Olfactoria´s Travels

RLB´s Terroir 44°N 03°W is drop dead gorgeous. Forget everything you ever knew about naturals. What is it with Swiss chemists? I know of two.
Albert Hoffman and Andy Tauer. They both created potions that last a very long time, whether used internally or applied externally. The average trip, olfactory or otherwise,
being between eight and twelve hours. Terroir 44°N 03°W lasts about ten hours. I was stunned. I thought naturals had a short life span. But this is a Tauer.

Andy says 44°N 03°W is free of any isolate and consists exclusively of essential oils, resins and absolutes. It includes wild mountain lavender harvested in the
The Cévennes, a mountain range in south-central France,hence the coordinates), black pine resin, the green fragrance of juniper, and of course, a hint of rose oil!
Thie lavender smells nothing like any lavender I have ever smelt. It´s fruity and herby and soft. Creamy, vanilla-y and lemony. I don´t start to even recognize lavender until a few hours into
the trip. (Check out Andy Tauer´s blog for an in-depth write up on his Cevennian lavender picking adventure.)

French mountain air. In a bottle. Stunning. Astonishingly divine. And no, it´s nothing like any Tauer I have ever tried.

http://www.richardlüscherbritos.com (You´ll need to brush up on your German folks!)

I had the honour of being invited to the launch for RLB by Andy Tauer and Vero Kern, followed up the next day by tea at Tauerville. Spoilt, I know. Here´s a few piccies.