Oriza L. Legrand Sample Set

June 10, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 22 Comments

Post by Portia

Heya Gorgeous People,

I recently bought the Oriza L Legrand Sample Pack. Sheesh! There are SO MANY fragrances in this line in only 4 years. 16 fragrances! That’s a lot. €38 for 16 x 2ml samples and FREE World Shipping is a rare opportunity to smell them all. So begins the rather daunting Oriza L Legrand adventure….. I’m going to test some for the first time and give you my 20 minute run of them in word association.

Oriza L. Legrand Sample Set

Oriza L Legrand

Heliotrope Blanc Oriza L. Legrand 2014

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Orange blossom, heliotrope, violet leaf
Heart: Almond, heliotrope, mimosa, iris
Base: Musk, heliotrope, rice, benzoin, tonka bean

Soapy, powdery, breathy and all together fabulous. Very waxy, a little bit make-up-ish and quite pretty. The green is squeaky under the powder and then the creamy nuttiness of almond comes through just enough to balance it out. There is something quite alcoholic about Heliotrope Blanc, the sharp tang of rice wine in amongst the maquillage. Once the breathy opening is gone all humanity leaves and we are left with a cold powder, a shimmering eye shadow and a waxy lipstick. Perfect for a Drag Queen, wearing it tonight.

Reve d’Ossian Oriza L. Legrand 2012

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Incense, aldehydes, maritime pine
Heart: Cinnamon, benzoin, elemi, tonka bean, guaiac wood, opoponax
Base: Balsamic notes, sandalwood, leather, labdanum, amber, musk

Sparkling incense, dry, desiccated and shimmering over a woodsy, dusty heart of resins. Hints of make-up and fur coats, cool winds and chanting monks. Reve d’Ossian reminds me of McLeodgang in the Indian Himalayas where the Dalai Lama and his monks live in exile. The smell of wet wood, dry incense, humanity and hope is all hidden in this beautiful gem. The dry down is sweeter and warmer, almost cozy but still holds the cool unburned incense smell inside.

Muguet Fleuri Oriza L. Legrand 2014

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Green leaves, grass, lily-of-the-valley
Heart: Galbanum, angelica, violet leaf, lily-of-the-valley
Base: Lily-of-the-valley, oakmoss, lily

If you like Muguet des Bois by Coty and are unafraid of ultra green, thick coiling ropes of galbanum then you may have found your fragrance. Muguet Fleuri is a cool, green, lotv powerhouse that bypasses all cleaning product references and goes straight for the ice cold metallic modern style. Backed by violet leaf and lily with a medicinal sweet/sharpness I find it arresting, aloof and vegetal, verging on bitter. Relentlessly green even as it fades to nothing. LOVE it.

Go check out Oriza L. Legrand Sample Set: 16 fragrances! €38 for 16 x 2ml samples and FREE World Shipping

Do you like the Oriza L.Legrand fragrances? Which of these piques your fancy?
Portia xxx

Nightscape by Ulrich Lang New York 2009

June 9, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 26 Comments

Post by Portia

Hello Fumies,

Jin and I were in Paris earlier this year, it was supposed to be a calm and quiet three days but it was CRAZY!! The day we arrived was the opening day of Tranoï Paris 2016 and the Le Galion guys had invited us. Rude not to really. So I just opened a bag that I kept my Kusmi Teas in and inside was a selection of the Ulrich Lang fragrances in carded manufacturers samples. YAY!!!

Ulrich is a lovely man, from the little I know him, and so super cool. We had a great time hanging out at Tranoï and I hope to get to hang with him again.

I particularly loved Lightscape a while back and it was excellent to get to see the whole range. Obviously a frag convention is a terrible place to smell fragrance because there are too many warring bits and pieces of scent flying about so I brought them home to try, and some extras to share.

Nightscape by Ulrich Lang New York 2009

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Mint, basil, sage, bergamot, tangerine, lime
Heart: Jasmine, geranium, violet, sesame, honey
Base: Patchouli, guava, moss, leather, amber, wood notes

Nightscape begins with a flurry of tangy green, a bit like the mixings for an alcoholic drink without the booze. Crisp, refreshing, herbaceous and very quietly sweet. Within the first 5 minutes the patchouli makes an entrance, modern patchouli sheer and radiant but with just enough oomph to give a saucy wink to the headshop patchoulis of old.The bouquet is all melded so seamlessly that it reads to my nose as an amorphous floral hum and I’m not sure if I can really smell honey or if the note list has planted that idea in my head.

There is a joyful feeling of anticipation through nightscape, nothing scary or ferocious. It feels grand but not in a baroque way, more grand like the feeling of expensive hotel sheets, understated and simple but luxurious. It’s the satin finished patina of a years old platinum wedding ring.

A couple of hours in and the sheerest patchouli and maybe violet, something sweetly green and waxy hum quietly around me. Nightscape is calm and cool. I really like it.

Ulrich Lang

Further reading: EauMG and Now Smell This
Luckyscent has $120/100ml + Samples

Have you tried any Ulrich Lang fragrances? Do you have a favourite patchouli fragrance?
Portia xx

Ulrich Lang GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 1 winner who will receive these 2ml Carded Manufacturers Samples:
1 x Anvers by Ulrich Lang
1 x Anvers 2 by Ulrich Lang
1 x Aperture by Ulrich Lang
1 x Lightscape by Ulrich Lang
1 x Nightscape by Ulrich Lang
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Tell us have you tried any Ulrich Lang fragrances? Do you have a favourite patchouli fragrance?

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 12th June 2016 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winner will be chosen by random.org
The winner will have till Wednesday 15th June 2016 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

N’Aimez Que Moi by Ernest Daltroff for Caron 1916

June 8, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 10 Comments

Post by Willa Zheng

Hi reader,

“Love no one but me” from the venerable but nowadays much overlooked House of Caron is, in my humble opinion, one of the great romantic perfumes of 20th century. Launched during the height of WW1, it also happens to celebrate its 100 year anniversary this year.

N’Aimez Que Moi by Caron 1916

N’Aimez Que Moi by Ernest Daltroff

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lilac, violet, rose
Heart: Iris, cedar, vetiver, sandalwood
Base: Vanilla, amber, musk, oakmoss

Fittingly for a perfume that sounds like an Edith Piaf love song, N`Aimez Que Moi opens like an old skool rose fragrance – geraniumy and drenched in clove-like eugenols that IFRA could banish this juice at any moment. My 22 year old, Miu Miu wearing work colleague says it smells just like her grandma. Well darling, your grandma has excellent taste.

Five minutes in, powdery, cosmetic-like notes such as violets and lilac emerge to join in the waltz with garden roses. Ever prised open the lid of Caron’s famous loose face powders? This is its fragrance!

Ten minutes later, woody chypre base notes creep in to give the fragrance a bit depth and some character. The main experience of wearing N’Aimez Que Moi conveys a big, radiant rose fragrance sitting on a dry layer of sandalwood. Emotionally, it’s the olfactory equivalent of an operatic Aria. The wearer of N’Aimez Que Moi is beautiful, assertive and yet lamentful.

The drydown of N’Aimez Que Moi, which emerges after about 4 hours, is a classic vintage chypre-base comprised of amber, musk and oakmoss, not dissimilar to the base of vintage Arpege. It creates a heavy, dark, rounded base that is a nuanced melange of the sweet, the skanky and the dirty.

My N`Aimez Que Moi edp (vintage 2007) has moderate to heavy silage, depending on the body heat of the wearer. Like an olfactory forget-me-not, this edp sustains itself for an impressive 12hrs +.

Further reading:
LuckyScent has $100/7ml extrait
Surrender To Chance has extrait samples from $5/0.5ml

Do you have a favourite Caron?

Miyako Extrait by Eugene and Emrys Au for Auphorie 2015

June 6, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 21 Comments

Post by Azar

Hello Frag Junkies!

Have you ever encountered a scent that you like (maybe even love) one day and then can’t abide the next? Recently I had that experience with Auphorie’s Miyako, one of the winning fragrances in this year’s Art and Olfaction Awards Artisan Perfumer category.

Miyako Extrait by Auphorie 2015

Miyako Extrait by Eugene and Emrys Au

The Power of the Peach III – Jekyll and Hyde

Fragrantica

Fragrantica Gives these featured accords:
Top: Apricot, yuzu, peach
Heart: Osmanthus, jasmine, green tea, leather
Base: Hinoki wood, cedar, sandalwood, patchouli, musk, katsura leaf

YUM! It is easy to imagine the power of this peach!

In late March, after reading a couple of complimentary reviews, I purchased a sample of Miyako Extrait and fell in love at first sniff. The heavy richness of peach and sweetness of osmanthus (reminiscent of Olympic Orchids Red Cattleya) were brightened and lifted by the dry, airy elements of an astringent yuzu and a perfect green tea (not the screechy kind). This rather unique take on peach developed into warm, woodsy leather, integrated with the continued presence of osmanthus. As time went by Miyako opened up as a glowing floral, eventually settling into comforting, amber-y sandalwood. The beautiful experience lasted about five hours, the last three as skin scent. My initial sampling of Miyako Extrait convinced me that here was a fragrance worthy of the time it takes to write up a post. As you can see, I’m still writing, but with trepidation…

PDP

My next encounter with Miyako was not so pleasant. Two weeks after the first spritz I sampled the extrait again. Instead of being transported to a garden of earthly delights, I found myself opening a nasty closet in an old, smoky motel room; a closet that had not been cleaned or even aired for many years in a room redolent of mildew, old leather, dust and ineffectual fruity/floral room freshener. What ever happened to my lovely Miyako?

The weekend after this experience I was visiting a couple of friends who just happened to have their own sample of Miyako. That day we all experienced the smell of nasty motel room. Previous to this my friends had been in love with their sample too. But the story doesn’t end with a stink.

Yesterday one of the friends joined us, at our home, for dinner and a distillation. After the fun we decided to sample Miyako once again. We were surprised and pleased to find that the perfume (my sample this time) was once again a beauty.

Wikipedia

So…what’s going on here? I’ve pretty much ruled out body chemistry as the cause, as three different bodies had similar good and bad experiences. The only explanation that comes to mind has to do with atmospheric pressure, humidity and/or temperature. Last night I loved Miyako but who knows what tomorrow will bring?

Further reading: Perfumes I Love and Colognoisseur
Scent Trunk has $90/30ml

Have you ever smelled a perfume that exhibited such a blatant split personality disorder? Do you have any idea what explains this Jekyll and Hyde effect? Have you tried Miyako?

Azar xx

Vanille Tonique by Mark Evans for Evocative Perfumes 2014

June 5, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 12 Comments

Post by Portia

Hey there APJ,

This weekend has seen Mark Evans as the featured perfumer on Facebook Fragrance Friends. When I saw him there it reminded me to put on one of his creations. Then I thought I’d look it up to see what I’d written about it but OMG! there was no APJ post about it. Let’s fix that right now then…..

Vanille Tonique by Evocative Perfumes 2014

Vanille Tonique by Mark Evans

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Olibanum, ylang-ylang
Heart: Vanilla, orchid, woods
Base: Ambrette (musk mallow), musk, benzoin

Thick and dry, resinous and sweet. Not bakery. A woody balminess that is crackly for the first few minutes and then suddenly smooths over into a soft as silk creamy caramel. Lightly smoky and warming.

The heart is a simple vanilla centre with softly fragrant back ups that add interest and keep the vanilla alive. Much more sheer through the heart, so wearable and engaging. If you are looking for a challenging fragrance that really pushes the boundaries you won’t find it here. Vanilla Tonique is softly alluring and sweetly wearable. I would even suggest it as a perfect date-night scent because while it’s no powerhouse in the 2-4 hour mark it is a lovely low key fragrance that could well be irresistible.

WikiCommons

I love that Mark Evans is an Aussie Independent Perfumer who is full of fire and enthusiasm. Part of my love for the indies is their ability to do wonderful stuff unfettered by IRFA compliance and rooms full of target audience panels. Here is a man who really loves fragrance and wants to add his olfactory voice to the chorus.

Evocative Perfumes has the Oil and EdP starting at $40
Evocative Perfumes also has the sample set on SALE! AUD$28 10 x 1ml samples FREE WORLD SHIPPING!

Have you tried any of the Evocative Perfumes?

Portia xx

Hermann ELdO GIVEAWAY WINNERS

June 5, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 2 Comments

Post by Portia

Hello Fragrant Fumies,

Well I thought I had three sets of these frags but it seems I have 4 so I’m giving 4 away!
YAY

Thanks to my mate Bronwyn, Etat Libre d’Orange Australia has $185/100ml

Portia xxx