Painting The Truth

November 21, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 4 Comments

Hi there APJ!

Here is a very simplistic ideal. We know it but often it gets lost in the “I Want”, “They Have”, “If Only” windmill of our minds.

Photo Stolen NeelaVermeireCreations

While I’m writing to you from my new digs in Redfern, Sydney I am bathed in a gorgeous thick, rich haze of Mohur by Neela Vermeire Creations. Just following the advice in the painting below. BLISS!

Whatever you are doing this is pretty good advice, and so pretty too

Cyber hugging you from here

Portia xxx

Photo Stolen Facebook

Fragrant Gifting

November 20, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 6 Comments

Fragrant Gifting

Hello there my scented friends! The glowing joy of the holiday season is upon us, and what better gift for the one you love most than fragrance? An incredibly personal sentiment, a choice that says “you are one of the people I adore most in this world.” How do I do Fragrant Gifting that feels like it was custom made for that special person?

Well, one obvious tip is to keep the scent amicable and easy to love. Unless you are gifting perfume to a collector or connoisseur, selecting a challenging or overly complex scent is a great way to ensure it gets secretly returned or left lonely and unsprayed in a dark drawer.

Another consideration is budget, because let’s be real – why blow the bank when you can blow their mind (at a modest price)?

The three fragrances below are my picks for charming your loved ones.

Fragrant Gifting

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Green mango, tomato, grapefruit, carrot
Heart: Orange, peony, lotus, hyacinth, bulrush
Base: Labdanum, incense, iris, musk, cinnamon

Un Jardin Sur Le Nil by Hermés: This scent is bright, clean, and has a great reputation for being well-received. Primarily a ginger aroma on me, it sparkles with a green hue that stays true to form throughout the wearlength. A fresh delight for either him or her!

My Perfume Samples has samples starting at $3/ml

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Jasmine, vanilla, pink pepper, tonka bean, cacao, ylang-ylang, ambrette (musk mallow

Sweet Jasmine Brown by Providence Perfume Company: This artisan perfume oil is an exquisite gateway to natural perfumery. The jasmine is simply darling, the perfect balance of sweet and clean, starlit enchantment. The accents include tonka bean and vanilla, warm like honey, adding smoothness and intrigue. Ultra-feminine and impossible to resist!

Providence Perfume Co perfume oil Sample Set $30/6 x .5ml

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
White pepper, musk, jasmine, cloves, vetiver, neroli, cedar, bergamot, cardamom

Vettiveru by Comme des Garçons: Quite simply, this is my favorite scent on a man. It’s astoundingly simple, but so well done, and doesn’t challenge the senses or intimidate. Vettiveru delivers the sunshine side of vetiver, of hay scenting a late summer breeze. Paired with a soft yet citrusy bite and a touch of pale woods, the overall aroma is crisp yet inviting. Buy it for him, and tell him to wear with caution….

Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $2/ml

Have fun sniffing! I wish you and yours a warm, joyful winter solstice.

Hugs,
Erica

What Fragrances Got Packed For USA 2014

November 19, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 17 Comments

Hi there Frag Heads,

It’s the age old question. What do you pack fragrance wise for a holiday? Do you take a set of 5ml decants of your faves, one bottle or a mix of both? Is it go large or go shopping?

What Fragrances Got Packed For USA 2014

Well, as always it has been a hell of a decision making process. I ummed and ahhed about it through the unpacking of the move and have been madly spritzing myself to see what would fit for me on this trip. Knowing that I’ll be stopped in 4 MeetUps in the best that the USA has to offer in Niche Perfumery, as well as the Guerlain store in the Bellagio Las Vegas where we are staying, I am pretty sure I will be heavily scented and shopping up a storm. So I decided that three was the magic number for this trip. I need a cold weather, a cool weather and a temperate weather fragrance that are all not so temp specific that I’ll feel ridiculous wearing them interchangeably. Another criteria is that they not be in regular decant atomiser bottles, I would like them to be a little more sturdy than that.

So here are my USA 2014 three:

Picture Stolen Fragrantica

Epice Marine by Hermès 15ml EdT: After first trying Epice Marine in Selfridge & Co with Tara I became quite obsessed with it. There’s something completely captivating in it’s cool, clear, cut crystal and salty herbal-ness. It starts out fizzy like a cold lemon squash with ice, it has a salt rim and some greenery floating in it that feels minty but is less sweet. Unlike so many of the Hermessance range I get excellent longevity and a very soft but noticeable sillage.

Photo Stolen Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

Ma Folie de Noël by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz 10ml EdP: Ma Folie de Noël was a gift from Natalie who used to run Another Perfume Blog. There is no 10ml option on the DSH site now and I think I will finish this bottle while on holidays, it’s a conundrum. The fragrance? Well it’s everything a cold weather fragrance that you want to make you warm should be. Anise, booze and cream all spiced and gorgeous. Even writing about Ma Folie de Noël makes me smile: happy scent and memories. I think it will be the one I reach for most while away.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Vanille Galante by Hermès 15ml EdT: Vanille Galante, that cool, dark chocolate and booze infested vanilla that wafts lightly and smoothly from my skin. An oxymoron, sleek and fat, cool and hot, heavy and transparent. Vanilla so completely UN-vanilla-ish that it hardly bears its name. The flowers are awkward and frigid, the spice is so cool it reads like incense and the vanilla like nothing you would ever bake with. Wrap the whole fabulously spare concoction in sugar free chocolate and inhale. This was not love at first sniff for me, in fact it’s taken a while for me to warm to it, now I couldn’t live without Vanille Galante.

Photo Stolen WikiCommons

Here are our MeetUp USA 2014 Dates:

Please come hang with us somewhere

SCENT BAR LA Wednesday NOVEMBER 19 2014 with Killian Hennessy MeetUp 5-7pm

BARNEYS + NEIMAN MARCUS CHICAGO Monday NOVEMBER 24 2014 MeetUp Barneys (Beauty Downstairs) 1.30pm

OSSWALD N.Y.C Saturday NOVEMBER 29 2014 MeetUp 2-4pm

TWISTED LILY BROOKLYN NYC Sunday November 30 2014 MeetUp 11am-1pm

How do you like my choices? What do you wear to travel? Many or few?
Portia xx

Agent Provocateur FATALE / FATALE PINK launch

November 18, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 6 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

Hey APJers, remember recently, that night, full of heavy rain, flash floods, sideways downpours, thunder, lightening and hail in Sydney? That night I attended the Agent Provocateur Fatale fragrances launch at Carousel Bar in Kings Cross.

Agent Provocateur FATALE / FATALE PINK launch

Entering the club in my water-filled heels, I was spritzed with FATALE PINK fresh and light it struck me as different to the Agent Provocateur fragrances I already knew.

Gathered were TV personalities from The Bachelor, foodie Rick Stein, beauty editors, PR people and Fragrances of the World lovelies, Anna and Virginia. We had a giggle, ate canapés and “stalked” Rick together – he partook in a 30 minute conversation with us about fragrance, flavors, travel and food – a highlight of the night.

Newly designed bottles were on display, a big change from porcelain curves of past fragrances. Marketing blurb says the facets reflect the many sides of a woman’s personality…not at all original, but pretty. Boxes are indented stylishly, a nod to fishnet stockings and very Agent Provocateur!

In the background, a seductive Agent Provocateur film was projected, staring Monica Cruz. The evening was relaxed, glamorous and cool.

Fatale by Jean-Marc Chaillan for Agent Provocateur

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Pink pepper, black currant, mango
Heart: Patchouli, orris, gardenia
Base: Vanilla orchid, musk, chocolate, labdanum

Mango- juicy and ripe, in a bed of vanilla, and chocolate, hinting at seduction but not as sultry and distinctive as expected. Pink pepper fizzes with the mango. Blackcurrant, tart with a dollop of cream. Patchouli? I’d say a touch of maltol / fairy floss in there too. Musk and orris come out to play after 30 minutes or so. Lasting power of 4 hours. It’s fun, I suppose it’s sexy, but not in the way Agent Provocateur’s first fragrances were- they were naughty and daring. Agent Provocateur has stepped into mainstream terrain. Within an hour I am reminded of Coco Mademoiselle. I have none to hand right now to compare, but somehow it nods in that direction…fresh, fruit, sweet and isoE!

In “the naughties” I was a party girl living in London – out EVERY night- obsessed with Agent Provocateur underwear. Gifted Chanel’s Mademoiselle and I wore it, a touch of fun glamour. Today I am more likely to be wearing Chanel clothing and add this fun Agent Provocateur fragrance on top, nodding back to those fun days!!

Fatale Pink by Jean-Claude Delville for Agent Provocateur

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Tangerine, pear blossom, yuzu, whipped cream
Heart: Datura flower, white camellia, pink lotus
Base: Bamboo, musk, black saffron

This fragrance was released for the Asian market and they’ve nailed it! I would wear this on a hot humid day, it’s watery and light. I love the pear notes. Gritty like tinned pears. The other notes give a pretty, white cream floral and fresh blur. Tangerine gives soft citrus. It’s easy to wear, easy to gift, clean, perfect for summer. Unobtrusive. Hours later there is a surprising sudden floral peak. There is a “thinness”- I think pink lotus has that effect, but with cream, and interesting sounding notes like saffron and datura I would expect a denser scent. Enigmatic and glamorous could describe this, but seductive? Introverted, innocent seduction- a hugely new direction for this usually racy brand. Perhaps we are to experience the many facets of seduction and provocation from this brand? From innocent, pretty and clean, right through to hot, foxy and downright naughty!!

Ainslie Walker x

Tubéreuse by Mona di Orio 2011

November 17, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 22 Comments

Post by TinaG

Whilst first wearing Mona di Orio’s Tubéreuse I must admit I was confused. It really wasn’t the “tuberose” fragrance that I had expected to find….

Tubéreuse by Mona di Orio 2011

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Pink pepper, green notes, bergamot
Heart: Tuberose, benzoin, heliotrope
Base: Musk, amber, coconut, milk, cashmeran

Tubéreuse opens with a flash of floral milkiness. This quickly changes to an enticing sweet pink pepper with a shadowy smoky bergamot lifting and supporting it. The scent shifts and changes rapidly in the first 10 minutes, slowly settling into a light fresh green accord. I can smell a warm and slightly waxy scent, like coconut water, translucent and milky. The greenness draws a linear thread through the life of the scent as a supporting anchor point. There is a gentle powder which joins the flow at about 1 hour and it stays this way during the dry down. So fresh, peppery, floral, clean, milky, waxy – I realised this fragrance is a study of the tuberose flower itself.

Photo Donated TinaG

I found my thoughts being drawn back to evenings where I’ve had bunches of tuberose in the house. Tuberose is “night-blooming”, in that the bloom’s fragrance intensifies during the early evening to night. The time of transition to twilight is a treasure. If I can resist switching a light on, instead maybe lighting a candle, with some quiet background tunes, and may or may not have a glass of chilled white wine – it’s lovely to sit for a while letting my thoughts ramble in whatever direction they take me.

Photo Stolen Pixabay

The scent of real tuberose at this time of day is quite simply stunning. Its fragrance edges into the consciousness, bringing thoughts back to the present and reminding that it is this moment, this time, which is precious. It reminds me of the novel “Island” by Aldous Huxley – in a fictitious country where the inhabitants recognise the importance of the ‘conscious self’, taking a step back from your thoughts to be able to see more clearly. The islanders had trained mynah birds to call out “Attention”, and “Here and Now” at random intervals as a reminder to bring one’s self back to the moment. The growing intensity of tuberose scent at twilight has this same effect – the headiness is all encompassing and so beautiful, why wouldn’t you just want to breathe deeply, silently watching as the day fades to calmness, and colours start to drain away into grey-blues and blacks.

Photo Donated TinaG

It was at this point whilst wearing Tubéreuse that I realised I was experiencing the work of a master artist. Mona di Orio has captured the impression of night-blooming tuberose with a deeply profound and exquisite skill. There is an expression, that the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. Trying to dissect and analyse Tubéreuse you could definitely identify the parts, but that’s not the story, not the whole picture, and certainly not the limit of its boundaries. The fragrance has a three-tiered connection with me now – the practical identification of notes, a reminiscence of the quiet times, and the deeper meditative space that the ‘present’ can provide. I’m grateful for that journey.

Further reading: What Men Should Smell Like and Perfume Posse
Peony Melbourne has $230/100ml with FREE shipping in Australia
Parfum1 has $230/100ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $7/ml

How many of you have tried the MdO Tubéreuse? Or any of her scents? Did you love them or not?

Tina G

The 2nd Annual Art And Olfaction Awards 2014 – open for entries!!

November 16, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 3 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

The 2nd Annual Art And Olfaction Awards 2014 – open for entries!!

It’s year 2 of the inaugural Art and Olfaction Awards. Last year the Jordan told us all about the awards inhis Australian Perfume Junkies post

Submissions have been trickling in since November 3rd 2014 and entries need to be postmarked by the 19th December 2014 to be in with a chance. The winner will be announced in April 2015.

Perfumes must have been released to market between January 1 and Dec 31, 2014 and can be entered into the Independent Award and/or the Artisan Award. For both of these categories, 2 perfumes will be picked from 5 finalists.

Excitingly this year there is a new category: The Sadakichi Award For Experimental Scent – This award aims to reward the work of people who engage with scent outside of commercial perfumery. One award will be presented out of five finalists

The Judges: Independent and Artisan Awards (preliminary)

• Ashley Eden Kessler
• Brent Leonesio
• Daniel Krasofski
• Hank Jenkins
• James McHugh
• Laura Johnson
• Neal Harris
• Persephenie Lea
• Steven Gontarski
• Sherri Sebastian
• Yvettra Grantham

The Judges: Independent and Artisan Awards (finals)

• Christophe Laudamiel
• Luca Turin
• Mandy Aftel
• Miriam Vareldzis
• Sarah Horowitz-Thran

The judges for the independent and artisan categories will review entries completely blind with submissions being tracked only by numbers. Text will be provided by the entrants, which explains their intentions for the scent and for the judges to contextualize what they are smelling.

The Judges: Sadakichi Award For Award For Experimental Scent

The Experimental Category judges will select the five finalists, as well as the winner.
• Allison Agsten
• Bettina Hubby
• Dr. Kóan Jeff Baysa
• Marcos Lutyens
• Mark Allen

The twitter handle for the awards is https://twitter.com/AOAwards
The Facebook is https://www.facebook.com/ArtandOlfactionAwards
General Awards website: artandolfactionawards.com

Info about the submissions process: http://artandolfactionawards.com/submission2015/
Info about 2015 Judges: http://artandolfactionawards.com/submission2015/2015judges/
Info about the categories (we’ve added one– experimental!): http://artandolfactionawards.com/submission2015/submission-categories/

GOOD LUCK!!

Gardenia Flower by Sheila Massetti for Perfume & Skincare Company

November 15, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 15 Comments

Hi APJ,

Sometimes when I’m in the bath or shower I have to make a difficult choice, “Do I use this product and cut out a swathe of fragrances that will not be happy marriages, do I use this product and bugger the consequences or will I use something else” (yes, I know that my life is incredibly low stress and that I have my priorities skew whiff). This is a serious conundrum. I recently put a bar of the Perfume & Skincare Company Gardenia Flower Pure Vegetable Glycerine Soap in the bathroom and the next day Jin (who rarely mentions my bathroom choices for us) said it was his favourite so far. It’s soft and silky, quick foaming and leaven my skin feeling fresh but not tight, we use it on our faces and bodies. For only $8 it’s a complete bargain too.

It does mean though that I can not test fragrances after using it because I have a distinct smell of gardenia up to 3 hours after my bath. So I have been wearing a few white flower scents, especially the soaps companion…

Gardenia Flower Extrait by Sheila Massetti for Perfume & Skincare Company

I know I’ve written about this fragrance before but sometimes you all need to be reminded of things. Here is what I wrote in the previous post about the Perfume & Skincare Co range:
GARDENIA: Gardenia is one of the scents I am repeat applying, not only is it a killer soliflor fragrance that people “get” straight off the bat, but it is a huge compliment getter. Every time I wear it at least one person asks what, who, how and how much. One night I had 4 people do this. Now if you wear scent often you will know that 4 people in one night do not ask about fragrance that you are wearing, it was uncanny. If you love white flowers and gardenia especially, then this fragrance will be for you too.

Photo Stolen Pixabay

What I know now that I did not know back then is that you cannot steal the fragrance from a gardenia, it needs to be recreated in the laboratory. Also, that many people try to do a gardenia but most of them simply do not understand how a real life gardenia smells. Sheila Massetti gets it. There’s the creamy, fatty facet: the petrol facet: the breath and shit facet, the bleu cheese facet, the sensual erogenous facet and a hundred other pieces to the puzzle. Gardenia Flower captures all of these and gives the closest photo realistic rendering of a gardenia I have yet found. Simultaneously clean and feral, divine and damned, Sheila Massetti has created the gardenia fragrance at the pinnacle of the heap.

Photo Stolen Flickr

Perfume & Skincare Company has $10/5ml Sample Atomisers, $8/Pure Vegetable Glycerine Soap – 160g and a range of other great products.

Did I mention they are an Aussie company from New South Wales hinterland?

Portia xx

Portia MeetUps USA November 2014

November 14, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 9 Comments

Heya APJ!

By now we are all in the USA! Hopefully we will get to see some of you at these great events.

I have some amazingly fabulous news. Jin, Kath and I will be coming to the grand old USA in November. I had such an incredible time at the LA ScentSation Bus Tour last year that I wanted to bring the two most important people in the world to me, to meet YOU! Yes, you read right, we will be doing a MeetUp in THREE USA cities.

Jin & I at Kings Canyon in Australia, photo taken & donated by Kath

A word of warning. There will be no drag this year. You will be meeting Dude Portia. Not as brightly dressed but just as loud, naughty, proud and sensational.

MeetUp USA November 2014

There will be loads of great stuff to sniff, we’ll get to mingle in the rarefied ambience of like minded people and indulge our often secret passion. It’s nice to be able to talk about your fragrant wardrobe without people rolling their eyes, smirking and looking at you oddly. It is also nice when people don’t gasp when they hear the price of your scent of the day. Yes, we fumies need moments of togetherness to remind ourselves that we are frag hags, not freaks.

I know you can’t WAIT to find out where we’ll be and when so here is a little breakdown of out journeys fragrant MeetUp events!

SCENT BAR L.A.

Wednesday NOVEMBER 19 2014

Killian Hennessy

MeetUp 5-7pm

I have just had a email from my LA husband Steven Gontarski (soon to be Turbo) and another few from co-owner of Scent Bar Franco Wright. We don’t have a firm date yet but it will be Monday 17, Tuesday 18 or Wednesday 19 November. As soon as I know I’ll make another post. You’ll see below that there is someone VERY special coming and we are hoping to do both on the same day!!!

The Scent Bar crew will be putting on some champagne and snacks and of course their usual good humour for our MeetUp. If I know the guys, and I do, there will be plenty of amazing and informative discourse too. Tom Pease from Perfume Posse will be in the crew on the day, he is such good fun and has an excellent nose so it will be grand to hang with him too. So if you love fragrance but don’t really know anything (like me) it’s a great way to expand your knowledge, or if you know HEAPS drop in and help educate us.

Steven, Tom and I will be picking two of our favourite winter scents and all of us will get to smell, critique and live our personal stories of these frags. Then hopefully you will tell us what you think of them too. (Unless the special guest BELOW is there, then it will be all about him)

More than anything though this is a fun get together where we can get to see you all in real life, have a laugh and smell some beautiful scents together.

There will also be an incredibly special guest at the Scent Bar during the same week: Killian Hennessy the founder of the by Killian line of fragrances and grandson of the founder of Hennessy Cognac. We will be treated to a meet and greet and he will gladly autograph your by Killian purchases too.

BARNEYS + NEIMAN MARCUS CHICAGO

Monday NOVEMBER 24 2014

MeetUp 1.30pm Barneys (Beauty Downstairs)

Woo Hoo! Here we meet up with Musette on her BIRTHDAY! Yes, it’s a Posse MeetUp for Musette’s Birthday. We will be doing mainstream niche at Barneys (1.30pm meet), onwards for some designer fragrance at Neiman Marcus (3.30pm-ish) and then all going for a lazy ole Birthday cocktail and some nibbles nearby (5.30pm-ish).

Musette and I will pick some winter fragrances for us all to try and discuss together. Chicago will not be as structured as the other cities but we will be able to do some fragrance testing, chat with like minded perfumistas, have some laughs and generally get out of the daily grind and into some fabulous fumes.

Did I mention it was MUSETTE’s BIRTHDAY!!!

OSSWALD N.Y.C

Saturday NOVEMBER 29 2014

MeetUp 2-4pm

Josie Plumey and I have been ping ponging emails. I have a crush on her, so freaking beautiful and I think she may have a very sharp sense of humour, dry and sharp.

Josie, Clement Pinard and I will pick a couple of our favourite Winter Fragrances and we can all chat about feelings they inspire, progression, their relative merits or otherwise. I think it will be a fun time with frag heads chatting scent. Nothing grandiose or pushy, just a fun afternoon talking and sniffing. Maybe expending or sharing your knowledge. I’d love to hear your thoughts on a few of my faves, even if you HATE them.

A little extra surprise: Birgit from Olfactoria’s Travels will be coming along to Osswald for the event too.

TWISTED LILY BROOKLYN NYC

Sunday NOVEMBER 30 2014

MeetUp 11am-1pm

Thanks to Carlos J Powell who is NYCs leading Goodsmella we are also going to drop in at Twisted Lily, which is affiliated with Parfum1. Carlos and I will be picking a couple of winter favourites and doing LIVE Video Sniffs. It should be a complete HOOT!

There’s a reason I wanted to go to this store and Carlos greased the wheels.

Last year for our Anniversary the only thing that Jin had shown any interest in at all during our shopping forays was Mona di Orio’s Oud. Yes, he has good taste. So I went shopping. I received an email from Stamatis Birsimijoglou apologising that they were out of stock but that I would get the Oud as soon as it came in. OMFG! DRAMA! So I wrote explaining that I needed it in time for the anniversary and that I would look elsewhere.

Could I find it? HELL NOOOOOO. Stamatis wrote me back though informing me that he had run a bottle to ground and that it would be shipping soon if I still wanted it. He even gave me a loyalty discount and it arrived in time. So, I really wanted to meet the crew and say thank you in person.

COME MeetUp WITH US PLEASE

SO! Where will we see you? Please come and hang out with us if you’re in or near a city we are visiting.
Portia xxx

Easy Itinerary

SCENT BAR LA Wednesday NOVEMBER 19 2014 with Killian Hennessy MeetUp 5-7pm

BARNEYS + NEIMAN MARCUS CHICAGO Monday NOVEMBER 24 2014 MeetUp Barneys (Beauty Downstairs) 1.30pm

OSSWALD N.Y.C Saturday NOVEMBER 29 2014 MeetUp 2-4pm

TWISTED LILY BROOKLYN NYC Sunday November 30 2014 MeetUp 11am-1pm

Sniffapalooza 2014: Breakfast

November 13, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 18 Comments

Post by Poodle

On a dreary day in October I boarded a train bound for NYC to attend my second Sniffapalooza. I wasn’t nearly as nervous this year. The city is far less intimidating when you have a native New Yorker to lead you around.

The official start of Sniffa was Saturday morning but I was barely off the train on Friday evening and Daisy had me on the subway heading for some sniffing and shopping. Needless to say, I wasn’t in town two hours and my purse was already lighter. But that’s another post for another day.

Breakfast at Tiffany’s, I mean, Bergdorf’s

Sniffa began on Saturday with breakfast at Bergdorf Goodman which is less about food and more about the newest perfumes along with some old favorites. There were about 20 perfumes presented in the two hour breakfast. They don’t call it Sniffapalooza for nothing. There is a lot to sniff. More than your thinking. I had planned on doing a photo essay but my camera had other plans and decided to stop working so I’ll recap some of the scents for you. From my notes here are some fragrant highs and lows.

The new Shalimar Souffle was disappointing.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Annick Goutal has released a perfume celebrating NYC called Vent de Folie. It’s supposed to be inspired by Central Park. The scent is very green, fruity and fresh. I can’t say it smells like New York to me but it is a perfume I could see selling well. I did get a compliment on it just the other day at the football game so even if it doesn’t smell like New York it does smell good.

I loved the new Diana Vreeland perfume bottles but haven’t tested the scents enough to form an opinion.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Kilian Hennessy of By Kilian was there in person and he introduced the scented jewelry collection along with the three perfumes in the new Addictive State of Mind collection. The jewelry is lovely as are the perfumes. I think I may have found a By Kilian to love with Intoxicated. It’s all coffee and booze with some smokiness. I came thisclose to buying a bottle. I had fears over the lasting power so I decided to wait and sample it some more when I was thinking more rationally. It’s easy to get caught up in the frenzy that is Sniffa. Light My Fire didn’t light mine although it did have some fans at our table. Smoke for the Soul was one of the stranger scents of the day.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Another scent worth sniffing is Gardenia by Robert Piguet. It’s not a screaming, in your face white floral and it’s far more interesting than the name implies. It has much more going on than just gardenia. There are notes of ylang-ylang, leather, and vanilla. I could see myself wanting more of this one. It’s not too feminine and has a great warmth to it.

There were more perfumes as well but it would be too much to list them all here. It’s amazing how much you can sniff in the course of two hours. Breakfast definitely whets the appetite for shopping right after on the fragrance floor. The rest of the day was filled with lunch, more presentations, sniffing, and shopping. The day was fabulous and I came home with lots of samples, a few bottles, and a few new friends. I’m looking forward to next year.

Hugs
Poodle

Mamluk by Sonia Espelta and Laura Santander for Xerjoff 2012

November 12, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 11 Comments

Post by Trésor

I have a fascination with gold. To me there is something so powerfully mesmeric about the opulent splendor of visions graced by the hand of Midas. Anything from the lustrous sheen of a treasured piece of jewelry to the scintillating hue of a lover’s skin bathed in a radiant aura of summer sunlight, just before the star collapses into dusk. I am enraptured. For ages I’ve been on a ravenous hunt for fragrances which mirror the essence of this exquisite ore and very few have fully realized my desire. Very few except for Mamluk.

Mamluk by Sonia Espelta and Laura Santander for Xerjoff 2012

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Musk, osmanthus, jasmine, amber, benzoin, vanilla, bergamot, agarwood (oud), honey, caramel

Mamluk opens in a most extraordinarily ebullient sequence of rich, highly sacchariferous honey and a lemon who’s skin seems almost bio-luminescent in its vivid incandescence. It is a prismatic pas de deux, illuminated citron trapezing alongside the toothsome honey’s molten gold as if in a cosmic light show. There is a fleeting animalic undercurrent, the very faintest whiff of urinous vapors making way for scintillating flashes of an almost candied oud.

Photo Stolen Flickr

This is not the challenging, fecal oud found by the tola in prolific collections of connoisseurs but oud envisioned as an utter confectionery delight. Beneath the oud lay a bed of blossoming jasmine flowers, their indolic form bathed in the oozing fluid luxuriance of decadent and flowing caramel. It’s sumptuous amber hue held in glorious juxtaposition with narcotic white petals, all the while maintaining a perpetual radiance which never quite disappears despite being ensconced in an exorbitantly dulcet density.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

As the composition progresses your sensory experience is permeated with the dazzling facets of a beautiful crystalline musk that calls to mind the scent of salty, sun soaked skin but as seen through the fractured light of broken crystal. It bounces and refracts in the most peculiar way that leaves me in a state where I am transfixed, my wrist glued to my nose. The hours pass and the composition gains a speherical quality and becomes exquisitely diffuse until finally it registers at a faint hum of honeyed sweetness just above the skin.

Photo Stolen DeviantArt

A word to the wise: this is one potent elixir so I implore you not to go guns blazing with the atomizer. A single spray (or two if you’re a hedonist like me) will do, trust me. When I first received my bottle I sprayed at least 6 times and thought I just might just drown in those gilded, thrashing tides of honey. This darling has quite a gorgeous, fairly powerful sillage and wears like iron. I get a good ten to twelve hours, quite impressive if I do say so myself.

Further reading: Kafkaesque and Perfume Posse
First In Fragrance have €247/50ml
Surrender To Chance have samples starting at $7/.5ml

So tell me, my sweet honeybees, what are your favourite fragrances for those who’ve an appetite for the olfactory manifestation of this precious ore?

Trésor xx