Snowcake by LUSH vs Cuir Beluga by Guerlain

March 20, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 20 Comments

Post by Chairman Meow

Hi APJ,

Having read comments on akafkaesquelife that Lush’s Snowcake was longer lasting version of my beloved Cuir Beluga, to be had at a fraction of the price, I considered the gauntlet well and truly thrown, so off I duly trundled to find a sample. You heard it folks. Cuir Beluga and Snowcake are about go toe to toe for the title of World Champion Delicious Marzipan Fragrance, so LET’S GET RRRRRRRRRRRRRREADY TO RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRBUMBOOOOOOOOOHHHHHHL!!

Snowcake by LUSH vs Cuir Beluga by Guerlain THROWDOWN

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Marzipan, benzoin, rose, cassia and almond

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Aldehydes, tangerine
Heart: Immortelle, patchouli
Base: Vanilla, amber, suede, heliotrope

Bingbingbing! Snowcake sluggishly dances around Cuir Beluga with some evasive footwork while Beluga watches on with a bored expression… and BAM! Beluga uncorks a huge left hook out of nowhere, and Snowcake goes down like a lead balloon. Nothing more to see here, ladies and gentlemen.

These are mostly listed as essential oils in the ingredients list, with the implication that it’s a mostly “natural” perfume, as is Lush’s wont. Certainly natural is how it smells.

Snowcake, with its billing as a scent of marzipan, and name that promises a mouthwatering dessert in fact delivers, cruelly, sadistically, the scent green bananas. It goes on tart, grassy and replete with an uncomfortable urge to scrape the fuzz of unripe fruit off one’s teeth. What’s more, by the magic of whichever wacky esters are in this concoction, you even get the slightly ferrous whiff of bruised and oxidised banana peel moments later.

Photo Stolen WikiMedia

The almond is there I suppose, morosely mooning about in the wings, crapulent from the night before, and does make a reluctant showing once the banana finishes its strangled chorus. It plays a short olfactory set and then passes out on stage in its own banana scented vomit. The only resemblance to Cuir Beluga that I could detect is when Snowcake is at the very end of its pitifully short life, one that makes the notoriously ephemeral Cuir Beluga appear a veritable Methuselah of perfumes, when it’s just an enfeebled, barely perceptible almondy-vanilla powder.

This would all be tremendous if Snowcake wasn’t thus named and was instead called “The Smell Of ‘Nanas Turning”, but as it is, it’s just a bit of a letdown for this confused reviewer. Am I missing something? Did the Aussies get a beta version of the Snowcake that everyone else is in raptures about?

No, I suspect the problem lies with me. The truth is, I’m quite partial to synthetic scents, with their durability and ability to transport me to fantasy olfactive landscapes, which is much harder to accomplish with natural scents. Actually, I’d say I’m quite the fan of artificial things in general. I prefer my chicken and corn soup laden with MSG. I’m looking forward to meeting my future robot manservant. I want my drag queens to look like caricatures of women.

And I like smelling stuff that smells better than the stuff it’s meant to smell like.
Pass me those bolt-ons will you, there’s a dear.

Chairman Meow x

Bottega Veneta Essence Aromatique: New Fragrance 2014

March 19, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 9 Comments

Hey there APJ,

You are probably aware, or sick to death, of my love for Bottega Veneta’s original EdP and Parfum. It has become Jin’s signature scent and whenever I smell it now I think only of him. The rest of their offerings are quite good but sadly none has caprured my heart in any where near the way of the original beautiful fragrance. Now we have a new one and though I haven’t tried it, I can’t wait. It looks lovely in the ad, let’s hope it lives up to it originator.

Bottega Veneta Essence Aromatique: New Fragrance 2014

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, coriander,
Heart: White rose, tonk, vanilla
Base: Patchouli, sandalwood

(source) via art8amby

Experience the original Bottega Veneta Parfum mini movie

Mitzah by Francois Demachy for Christian Dior 2010

March 18, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 14 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

Hi APJ,

Named after Christian Dior’s friend and muse Mitzah Bricard and now sadly discontinued, from the first whiff today’s fragrance takes my breath away. I really don’t know why. Is that what the Dior website means when they describe it as “enchanting”? I’m definitely enchanted.

Don’t Forget to enter our Oriza L. Legrand Sample Sets GIVEAWAY

Mitzah by Francois Demachy for Christian Dior 2010

La Collection Couturier Parfumeur/La Collection Privée

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured acords in one line:
Coriander, rose, spices, cinnamon, labdanum, vanilla, honey, patchouli and incense

With Mitzah I’m reminded of a freshly baked red velvet cake. Deep red rose, warm vanilla, amber and spicy, balmy cinnamon. Pungent labdanum comes and go, in the first hour taking this fragrance into a far from innocent direction.

Mitzah could easily be unisex.

Photo Stolen WikiMedia

Something smolders, reminiscent of a café in a Parisian street. Coffee…fur-clad fashionistas, still up from the night before. Resinous incense from a nearby chapel in the air. Sultry yet sweet. A touch creamy. More and more amber and burnt toffee notes. Freshly scorched Crème Brulee? Brandy? Some say honey…I’ve never had honey that smelt like this. Vanilla and patchouli stay close to the skin, a soft, deep powdery touch amongst the smolder and amber. It’s hard for me to decide if the amber or frankincense is dominant. They dual fairly equally until the un-bitter end.

Wearing it, I wonder if anyone else around me can smell it? Every few minutes I find myself pressing my wrist to my nose. It’s addictive. I want more. I wish it were BIGGER. It’s rich, but not big. *Sob! It’s almost a little linear, not much movement or change, but I love it. It hugs and comforts, sophisticated, whilst still somehow remaining a little elusive with its unchanging wafts.

Photo Stolen Pixabay

I wear it to bed and sleep well, in a cave of sensual patchouli and sweet deep amber and incense. Just before I drop off there’s a sharp note of coriander seed amongst the mix. I think of Marrakesh for some reason. Longevity is good it’s still there in the morning, mainly the resins. Just there. Not screaming out or anything, just kind of lingering around.

I thought I’d test it further and head out for some exercise doused in it. As my body temperature increases I get slightly more toffee and incense, but I really think it remains pretty constant. Mitzah is subtle and noticeable at the same time. I kind of imagine Mitzah to be introverted, but noticeable. Consistent. Unique. Decadent and sensual. This fragrance is rich, soft and deep.

Photo Stolen Flickr

Mitzah is not so much a journey, she’s just doing her thing. In the background but holding a striking presence leaving some of us a little spellbound.

Further reading: Australian Perfume Junkies and Olfactoria’s Travels
Still available in Paris and rare DIOR stores and counters
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $3/ml

Try it if you can, before it’s gone (or super expensive)…otherwise some say Serge Luten’s Amber Sultan makes a good substitute.

Ondine by Lisa Fong for Artemisia Natural Perfume

March 17, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 11 Comments

Hi APJers,

Long ago, my then BFF and I (we were all of 17) were exploring some woods when we rounded a corner and saw in front of us a field of wild, naturalized daffodils and narcissus. It was breathtaking! We walked into this field and were surrounded by the beauty and the scent of the flowers. I see this long lost field every time I wear today’s beautiful fragrance…

Ondine by Lisa Fong for Artemisia Natural Perfume

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Narcissus, myrrh, floral notes

Ondine is the name of a Germanic water nymph and the Artemisia site says that this scent is meant to be the “fresh, sweet spirit of water”. I get no water at all from it, none, unless it’s the water that Narcissus looked into when he fell in love with his own image.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

Narcissus, narcissus, narcissus is what Ondine is about. The first time I spritzed it on, my immediate reaction was “what a strange little perfume.” Now that I know Ondine better, this hasn’t happened again, but it always grabs my attention. The opening is very sharp with a hint of myrrh in the background. This myrrh is never strong and I lose it after about 3 or 4 minutes. The sharpness stays but mellows somewhat. There is also a delicate sweetness in the mix that stays until the end. Ondine is narcissus, both sharp and sweet until it fades away after about 4 hours, 3 in summer. It has more silage than I would expect from a natural, but I think it would be hard to offend anyone. I like that Artemisia makes it in a solid too so it’s easy to carry it with you and refresh as needed. Ondine is a perfume of springtime. It says – get up, get out, smile, life is good.

Photo Stolen Pixabay

From the Artemesia site: …100 percent natural Artemisia eau de parfums embrace the world of earth, roots and water, along with sweet floral notes. Each captures the essence of a natural, sensual experience and allows it to resonate as the perfume develops on each individual.
Ondine: Essences of narcissus and myrrh and sweet kewda attar relax the senses and unlock memories of river, lake and pond.

Ca Fleure Bon writes: Ondine reminds me of the last gasp of the paperwhites. The sweetness of narcissus combined with the resinous, almost dusty, smell of myrrh is balanced perfectly. There is something unusual about this scent that I can’t quite put my finger on. It has a smell that brings antiquities to mind, as if it were composed of the dust motes from an old perfume cabinet. Ms. Fong created this to be a scent reminiscent of rivers, lakes and ponds, named after the naiad Ondine, but we all have different perceptions of fragrance. This is a perfume I want my coats to smell like; worn and comfortable, but nicely scented.

Artemesia Natural Perfumes has Ondine EdP $68/17ml

This winter has been too long for many of us. What makes you think of spring and takes away the winter blues if only for a while?

Maya
xx

Magnolia Grandiflora Sandrine and Magnolia Grandiflora Michel 2013

March 17, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 5 Comments

Post by SarahK

Hi APJ,

These are the first fragrances released by Grandiflora, a Sydney-based florist. Magnolia Grandiflora Sandrine was the final fragrance developed by Sandrine Videault before her untimely death last year. Originally scheduled for release in August 2013, its launch was delayed following Sandrine’s sad passing. Instead, it was released in early 2014 together with Magnolia Grandiflora Michel, which was developed by Michel Roudnitska, son of Sandrine Videault’s mentor at the start of her career. Ainslie Walker also reviewed these two fragrances here at APJ, Jordan River did a wonderful lead up on APJ too, but as these two scents were only recently released, and there aren’t many reviews of them yet, I wanted to offer my take too!

Magnolia Grandiflora Sandrine and Magnolia Grandiflora Michel 2013

Magnolia seems to be a popular note in perfumery currently, but these two scents are no bandwagon-jumpers. Do not try them expecting heady floral notes like those found in En Voyage’s homage to the magnolia, Zelda, or Guerlain’s powdery L’Instant. You won’t find anything like that here.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Lemon, grapefruit, white pepper, green notes, woody notes, watery notes and musk

Sandrine: This, to me, is a grapefruit fragrance backed by fresh (not marine) watery notes and some clean musk. Imagine you’re breakfasting on grapefruit and a glass of spring water. You’re sitting at a table covered by a starched white tablecloth on the airy, sunny terrace of a posh hotel somewhere Mediterranean. The grapefruit note feels natural, though the underlying musk has a touch of the functional, starchy ‘laundry musk’ about it. For me, that doesn’t detract from the scent – rather, it adds to the feeling of airy breezes and stiff white linen. That being said, there is definitely an aromachemical in here that gives me a feeling of being smacked across the bridge of the nose, and I wouldn’t be surprised if others found it headache-inducing. The fragrance is not complex, and is pretty linear, but it’s nicely done, aromachemical reactions aside. I am not a fan of 90s-era ‘ocean fresh’ calone/citrus scents, but I would find this very likeable if not for the nose-smacking.

Photo Stoilen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Grapefruit, lemon, bergamot, jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose, magnolia, vetiver, patchouli and musk

Michel: This opens as an aquatic floral and stays that way for a couple of hours. It’s a realistic waxy, green, watery – even slightly milky – magnolia and, like the real thing, smells better from a distance than up close. When I sniff my wrist, I have to confess that, owing to the lactonic note, I don’t love it at this stage, though the sillage is nice. It’s very different to Sandrine’s interpretation of magnolia. Where Sandrine is the evocation of a breezy, sunny and warm day, Michel is a magnolia tree after a cool rain shower. Over time, the milky aspect fades and by hour three I am left with a fresh green floral that I like much more. By hour four we’ve reached the base, where there is an easy-wearing echo of the grapefruit and woods (though none of the starchy aromachemical) found in Sandrine.

Both fragrances are unisex and have moderate-soft sillage, though they last a good 8 hours on my skin (but I have to say most fragrances do).

LuckyScent has both US$185/100ml
Peony Melbourne has both AUD$185/100ml

Have you tried either of the Grandiflora scents? Were they what you expected?

SarahK X

Jardins d'Armide by Oriza L. Legrand 1909/2013

March 16, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 61 Comments

Hello you Gorgeous Frag Geeks,

During out European Frag Tour 2014 Michael and I made a point of going and seeing the boys of Oriza L Legrand at their 18 Rue Saint-Augustin, Paris store. We organised a date and expecting to be given a mini tour of the range and their history, which I had read a fair bit about and then forgotten, we walked to the store. Michael was excited to discover a new fragrance house and I was very interested to meet two men who were able to bring their dream of owning a fragrance house to life.

Turns out that Franck & Hugo are the sweetest men in the history of the known universe, they explained the history, the ideas, the fragrances and a whole lot else. Charming, amusing and extremely dedicated to perfumery and their brand I foresee great things for them. If the quality of their product and service remain at these standards then I can see no reason why not. Today I am going to introduce you to the Oriza L. Legrand fragrance that rocked my world more than the rest.

Photo Stolen Oriza L. Legrand Facebook

Jardins d’Armide by Oriza L. Legrand 1909/2013

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Rose, orris, powdery notes, orange blossom
Heart: Iris, violet, carnation, wisteria
Base: Honey, almond, tonka bean, musk

Interestingly I bought the fragrance that quite a bit of the scentbloggosphere has either not loved or actively disliked. When Michael and I were being taken through the range it was all touche spritzing until we got to Jardins d’Armide and withing 10 minutes of it being spritzed on a card I was asking to see how it lived on my skin. A little over an hour of fragrance, fun, good humoured banter and the super great story of the company’s inception and reincarnation I was asking for some Jardins d’Armide. Hugo thought I wanted a sample and had already done me a 10ml to take with me (SO kind and thoughtful) but it was a bottle and some of their delicious soaps that I was after. The boys were even so sweet that they posted the bottle back home for me at a very small extra cost, and they put some sample packs in for me to do a giveaway on the blog!

So, what does Jardins d’Armide smell like when it hits my skin, and during its lovely long life? The first thing I get is a funky Musk Stick smell that is both super sugared and soapy, like a sweet rose jam soap. It’s fun and neon bright and it stays for around 5 minutes before receding slightly to let a very breathy, indolic, orange blossom play along and here is where we really get to see the full blown spicy fruit rose bloom. There is an accord that I’ve come across lately and Michael and I decided it was the Hairspray and Nail Polish accord, I FREAKING LOVE IT! Jardins d’Armide has this accord in spades and I think it may have something to do with violet and iris together.

Well into the second hour I think I’m getting a little saffron but it could easily be the violet & iris and honey all smooshing around together. The almond and honey take over somewhere around the 4-5 hour mark but still there lingers a lovely powdery sweetness. It wafts around for a while then slowly fades to nothing. A beautiful ride and I enjoy it immensely. Maybe it’s my skin but I find Jardins d’Armide to be an extremely wearable fragrance that is noticeable, has good sillage and low to medium projection after the first hour. I definitely made the right choice because even here back in Sydney I am reaching for Jardins d’Armide more than almost everything else in my collection.

Photo Stolen Oriza L Legrand

Oriza L Legrand Online Boutique has €120/100ml and send worldwide
Oriza L Legrand Online Boutique also has Sample Sets only €9/7 x 2ml spray samples of their line

Have you tried any of the Oriza L. Legrand fragrances yet? Did you know that their Horizon has been nominated for an Olfactorama Award?
Portia xx

Photo Stolen myprettypaints

Oriza L. Legrand GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 3 winners who will each receive:

1 set of 7 x 2ml Oriza L Legrand samples
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Go to Oriza L. Legrand<<<JUMP and find me a fragrance and one of its notes, or another of their products and it’s fragrance name. NO DOUBLE UPS!!

Extra Chance?
Tweet: @OzPerfumeJunkie Oriza L Legrand GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-2z9 #Perfume #Giveaway

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Thursday 20th March 2014 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Monday 24th March 2014 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Photo Stolen Oriza L Legrand

Maison Oriza L. Legrand – History

March 16, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 3 Comments

Hi there Perfumed Peeps,

Later today APJ will look at one of the fragrances from this house but I thought it might be good for you all to read the history of the company beforehand. The story presented here is from the Oriza L. Legrand website, and gives a very nice potted history that will have you up to speed in a couple of minutes.

Portia xx

History of Maison Oriza L. Legrand

In 1720, during the reign of Louis XV, Fargeon Elder Parfumeur Distiller of the king and his court (known in Europe as “The Perfumed Court”), gives birth to Oriza House. In 1720, Oriza House enjoyed the trust of the most illustrious and especially King Louis XV of France.

The company was the official supplier of the King and the Fargeon were famous as the perfumer of Queen Marie-Antoinette.

The creams and powders Fargeon created were also destined to the eternal youth and beauty of the famous courtesan, Ninon de Lenclos.

Since the beginning, the House received the royal warrant as the official supplier of toiletries and fragrance of the Royal Courts of France, Italy, England and The Imperial Courts of Napoléon III and Russia.

The name of the house originates from Oryza Sativa, the latin name for rice, which was part of the ingredients for rice powder, make-up and wigs.

Michael at Oriza L Legrand with Franck & Hugo (Photo donated by Michael)

Then in 1811, Louis Legrand took over the house as he understood its potential prestige. With its fragrant creations, he developed it to its full extent. Legrand led Oriza to its fame and set his boutique on the famous rue Saint Honoré in Paris. He created the most refined, the most exquisite and the most complex products. Legrand was a true fragrance artist.

Some time later Antonin Raynaud joined the house as an associate. Legrand then sold him the house, and he renamed it Oriza L. Legrand as a tribute to its first two owners and the story of the famous house of perfumes.

In 1887 the company Oriza L. Legrand patented and produced the world’s first solid perfume (Essence Oriza Solidifiée). The whole manufacture, from the distillation and maceration of perfume ingredients to labelling, from soap making to grinding rice for powder, was concentrated in the factory of Levallois-Perret. Oriza L. Legrand was one of the rare houses that provided the Courts of Russia, England, Italy and France. The house was also one of the firsts to turn its fragrances into lines of products.

For most of its perfumes, Oriza L. Legrand had a perfume, a powder, make-up, soaps and lots of perfumed items.

The factory employed over 200 staff at the end of the 1800s. It ran at full capacity and Raynaud put his financial means at the service of the house. He created for instance his own, very refined package boxes. He also turned to Baccarat, who created bottles for prestigious editions. And he left Faubourg Saint Honoré to set up to shops on 9 boulevard de la Madeleine and on 11 Place de la Madeleine, where Baccarat currently stands. this provides an indication of how important the house had become by then.

Company Oriza L. Legrand successfully participated in international exhibitions and has been regularly awarded prizes, from the bronze medal at the Universal Exhibition in Paris (1867) to the Grand Prix in 1900. At the turn of the 20th century, 90% of the production went abroad.

Today Oriza L. Legrand is still made in France and works with small companies all over the country. Raw materials of the highest quality are still used and the apothecary’s artisanal processes followed.

We are very proud to open 4 centuries of archives and present to the world a part of our prestigious history.

All Photos unless otherwise specified Stolen Oriza L Legrand

Epic Body Lotion by Amouage 2009

March 15, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 38 Comments

Hiya Perfume Junkies,

I love most forms of scent: Fine fragrance, Lotions, Bath products, Home fragrance etc etc. Obviously spritzing perfume is a joy all by itself but for real, no holds barred luxury give me a fabulous Body Lotion, I love the whole experience and also that it is a good frag base. Body Lotion is another thought re-railer, if I find myself heading towards bleak or morbid thoughts something as simple and fun as applying a lavish body lotion can be exactly the thing to send my mind in another direction.

Epic Body Lotion by Amouage 2009

Daniel Maurel

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Caraway, pink pepper, cinnamon
Heart: Rose, geranium, jasmine, tea
Base: Amber, vanilla, incense, orris root, patchouli, agarwood (oud)

The fragrance notes are repeated pretty closely in the Body Lotion but with less of a story, basically the lotion goes on and smells like it does for its whole life. A very pretty mix of caraway, rose, amber with the rest in background roles. What is does do though is smell fabulous, pumping out a perfect dosage of fragrance and leaves my skin looking and feeling lovely, even rubbing it on it feels great and my body absorbs it super quickly which is great when leaving the house in a hurry, you don’t have to wait to put your clothes on.

I have an admission to make. I did have a decant of Epic woman that I was totally going to buy a bottle of. Then I grabbed this bottle of Body Lotion and the Body Lotion and fragrance together are amazing but so HUGE that ever since I wear the Body Lotion by itself and feel that it is completely fragrant enough for around 5-6 hours. After that Epic Body Lotion makes an incredible base for almost any fragrance I choose to spritz over it and gives that fragrance extra life length too with a lovely depth that only Amouage can bring.

Libertine Parfumerie has this to say: The body lotion contains glycerine, shea butter, aloe vera, almond oil, silicone and a protective film leaving the skin supple, smooth, silky and radiant.

Photo Stolen Libertine Parfumerie

There are plenty of places to buy your Amouage Epic Body Lotion if you’re looking for a bargain but I buy mine from Libertine Parfumerie where it may cost a few dollars more but I know that they have new and fresh stock and SHIPPING IN AUSTRALIA IS FREE!

Libertine Parfumerie has $107/300ml pump pack including shipping in Australia
Beauty Encounter has $75/300ml

What are your favourite fragrant indulgences? Is there a lotion that really makes you feel special? Do you find a self application of something lavish can be a mood changer?
Portia x

L`Heure Mysterieuse XII by Mathilde Laurent for Cartier 2009

March 14, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 3 Comments

Hello my lovelies,

You may remember that last year in Prague I bought L’Heure Convoiteé II and at the time Jin quite liked L`Heure Brilliant VI and so I have been trying to get him a sample of it from a Cartier store for over a year now. Yes, I know I can buy a sample at Surrender To Chance but I really wanted him to have the full Cartier sample experience. In the hopes of finding a sample at the source Neela Vermeire took me to 13 Rue de la Paix, Paris on my recent visit. Sadly there were none but the gentleman who manages the store was extremely affable and gave me a couple of other samples, there was also the most gorgeous security guard I’ve ever seen, quite a movie star.

L`Heure Mysterieuse XII by Mathilde Laurent for Cartier 2009

Les Heures de Cartier

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Jasmine, patchouli, coriander, elemi, incense, nutmeg

A patchouli bomb where the patchouli and nutmeg get together with everything else and make me smell bitter chocolate at the open, then the elemi and coriander take over giving me bitter, sour, green that is both intriguing and slightly disgusting, not like Secretions Magnifique but there is something mildly revolting that I can’t stop sniffing. You know when a fit and healthy person sweats at the gym? Though you know it’s sweat so kind of yucky, yet still to cuddle up with them if they’ve arrived home unshowered can be very darn sexy and it doesn’t matter if you muss them up because they are heading for the shower anyway. L`Heure Mysterieuse XII is that kind of scent, a nod to the sweetest of scents, healthy sweat. Before, during and after.

“An invitation into secrets, the scent of a whisper, heady and lascivious.” Mathilde Laurent, Cartier perfumer.

Yes, that’s what I’m getting, a breathy invitation to entanglement over coffee. This is a sexy scent that sometimes during its story can smell a bit ripe, over ripe even, humanity about to go nasty. Then not too far into the heart it changes completely, still humans in the picture but now the smell of a wood fire, the warmth and woods, smoke and cooking, the herbs & spices are playing lovely counterpoint and still this lovely sweatiness floating in and around. Do any of you get this clean skank? I would never have believed that L`Heure Mysterieuse XII was a Cartier if I didn’t get it straight from the shop in Paris. Amazing, fun and NAUGHTY! I have worn this now 3 times and every time I am astounded at the implied raunch.

L`Heure Mysterieuse XII stays pretty linear and does more of a fade than a change after it hits the smoky woods with spicy, sweaty humanity breath overtones except to add more patchouli and a hint of leather onto the pile. Lasting power is good at 9+ hours of fragrant, sillage soft and scent projection quite close but very discernible and towards the end it’s only the softest and most subtle suede, gorgeous. I think I now need to make Jin wear it to see if it has the same feral overtones on another body that I’m not sniffing up so close to.

Photo Stolen WikiMedia

Further reading: Pink Manhattan and Bois de Jasmin
Cartier stand alone stores and some Cartier counters in department stores carry the range
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $6/.5ml

I have enjoyed my L`Heure Mysterieuse XII wearings immensely and if it wasn’t so damn expensive in Australia at AUD $405 I would have rushed down to Cartier and grabbed one already, maybe next holiday.

Have you yet tried any of Les Heures de Cartier? Did you have a favourite? What about the elegant aesthetic? Would you love a bottle?
Portia xx

Dot by Annie Buzantian and Ann Gottlieb for Marc Jacobs 2012

March 13, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 38 Comments

Post by Poodle

Dot, dot, dot…

This is not really a review but rather a tale of a perfume that I never thought I’d wear, never mind own.

Hubby went on a trip and got me a fragrant souvenir. I know I should have told him what to get but I was curious to see what he’d pick if left to his own devices. Well, he went to a Sephora and with some help from the SA, left with one of the newest releases at the time. Dot. Yes, the Marc Jacobs one.

Dot by Annie Buzantian and Ann Gottlieb for Marc Jacobs 2012

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords (different in words & pics):
Top: Red berries, honeysuckle, pitaya fruit (dragon fruit)
Heart: Coconut, jasmine, orange blossom
Base: Vanilla, driftwood, musk

So there I sat with a polka dotted bottle of my very own dreading the thought that I might have to wear it. I thought perhaps I could wear it once or twice and when he didn’t notice it I could shove it to the back of the shelf and forget about it.

I bravely spritzed one morning before work. When I stepped into the kitchen after getting ready, hubby noticed immediately and commented on my fragrance. I told him it was the one he bought and he was so pleased that he picked out something that smelled so good. Of course I was not thinking that. This was not what I wanted to smell like. Not. At. All.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

At work there was a random comment that something smelled good in the office but I knew it couldn’t be me so I dismissed it. Then I was followed down the hall by a coworker who wanted to know if it was me she was smelling. It was. She had to know what my perfume was. I was forced to admit I was wearing Dot. I even brought her a sample the next day.

The next time I wore it I received similar reactions and hubby comments on it every time.

To this day Dot continues to be one of the perfumes that I get the most compliments on.I’ve accepted that fact now even though I don’t understand it.

Photo Stolen DeviantArt

There’s no point in trying to dissect the perfume note by note. It smells like a lot of other fruity florals to me. I would not be able to pick it out of a scented line up. It’s sweet and dripping with red berries, white flowers, and vanilla. It’s girly and a bit loud at first. Yet people seem to love it on me. It’s not “me”, but I guess I’m not wearing it for me. I’m wearing it because hubby bought it for me and it makes him happy. Once in a while you have to take one for the team I guess.

Do you have perfumes you wear because someone gave them to you or because they like them on you even though they’re not favorites of yours? Please tell me I’m not the only one.

Poodle x