Jasmin Rouge by Rodrigo Flores-Roux for Tom Ford 2011

March 25, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 24 Comments

Post by Portia

Hi there Frag freaks,

While on holiday Anna-Maria, Val the Cookie Queen, Sandra and I went to Le Parfum, among other stores, but Le Parfum is my favourite by far. The crew are fun and friendly, really knowledgable and can’t wait to help you with your choices. I never feel like I’m a bother, even though I know I can be, and they have an excellent selection including many of my favourite brands. The news of today’s fragrance being discontinued in the store reminded me that I had promised myself a bottle and never gotten around to purchasing….

Le Parfum

It’s mildly interesting to note that both full bottles I own of Tom Ford fragrances were by Rodrigo Flores-Roux and released in 2011, Neroli Portifino and todays beauty………Jasmin Rouge

Jasmin Rouge by Tom Ford 2011

Jasmin Rouge by Rodrigo Flores-Roux

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, mandarin, cinnamon, ginger, cardamom, black & white pepper
Heart: Sambac jasmine, broom, neroli, ylang-ylang, clary sage
Base: Mexican vanilla, labdanum, leather, wood, amber notes

That freaking bottle. It’s so gorgeous and even catching sight of it I’m filled with joy. I grabbed le Parfum’s last two Jasmin Rouge soaps and body lotion, can’t wait to get into them too.

Jasmin Rouge opens like a DIVA! It’s bold, spicy, loud and indolic. Eye rolling and heart flutteringly good. You can tell that the tom Ford crew wanted people to smell it in store and impulse buy it from the majestic and over the top extravaganza it begins with. I get it. It is amazing.

Then after about an hour Jasmin Rouge become a very simple and easy wear creamy woods base. Nothing groundbreaking or sensational. Actually it smells like many other things on the market and hums away quietly for hours at that level. I feel that Jasmin Rouge is made for people with jobs who want to smell amazing all the way to work and good the rest of the day, without setting off alarms in the workplace.

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and Olfactoria’s Travels
David Jones has $298/50ml + Body Lotion and Soap (FREE Australian Delivery over $100)
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/0.5m

You get a chance to try it for yourself below,
Portia xx

TheTruthAboutMummy

Jasmin Rouge GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 2 winners who will receive:
1 x 2ml decant of Jasmin Rouge by Tom Ford
P&H Worldwide

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged. Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me (portia underscore turbo @ yahoo dot com dot au) so I know.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please tell us your favourite Tom Ford fragrance or one you’d like to try?

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 20th March 2016 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winner will be chosen by random.org
The winner will have till Thursday 24th March 2016 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

An Evening with Portia Turbo: Perfume Lovers London

March 24, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 38 Comments

Post by Tara

Hey APJ!
I’m guesting here today from A Bottled Rose to report on a very special occasion – Portia Turbo hosting Perfume Lovers London! The theme for the event was “Great Women” and the following should give you an idea of how it went. Just imagine Portia’s words with a good smattering of hilarious expletives.
So take your seats because here we go…

Perfume Lovers London

An Evening with Portia Turbo

28th January 2016

Portia: This the pinnacle of my fragrance experience, presenting in a chapel. I feel like “Santa Portia of the Fragrances”. The idea is to take 12 woman who were of import to the world and talk about the fragrances I’d put with them.

Portia then gave everyone a slip of coloured paper with one of the women’s names on it.

WikiMedia

Cleopatra VII (69-31 BC)
Ubar by Amouage (1995)
Notes: Litsea cubeba, Mandarin, Orange, Violet leaf, Freesia, Jasmine, Lily-of-the-valley, Orange blossom, Rosewood, Tuberose, Ylang-ylang, Copaiva balsam, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Vetiver, Amber

Portia: Apparently Cleopatra had a face like a foot but a beautiful body and awesome personality.
Ubar has such power but is lilting underneath. Ubar is what I imagine they’d have embalmed her in. It’s a heavenly scent, a beautiful bouquet of flowers.
Who else had Cleopatra and what perfume did you think of?

Audience member: I immediately thought of Poison.
Val the Cookie Queen: Onda Extrait (Vero Profumo)

Wikipedia

Saint Joan of Arc (1412-30)
Celtic Fire by Union (2012)
Notes: Oak, Fir balsam, Pine needle, Marmite™ , Birch tar, Sweet gale

Portia: Just for fun I thought we’d pair Joan with Celtic Fire (much laughter). I don’t think it really smells of Marmite.
Lila (Event organiser): Can I just say…
Portia: When it’s your evening you can say what you like (Laughter)
Lila: I was just going to say the perfumer gave Grant from Basenotes a little of the Marmite accord because he belongs to this Marmite secret society.
Portia: {With comic sarcasm} That is a lovely story. Thank-you.

Wikimedia

Catherine the Great (1729-96)
Ambre Russe by Parfums d’Empire (2005)
Notes: Champagne, Vodka, Ambergris, Coriander, Cumin, Tea, Cinnamon, Leather, Vanilla, Frankincense

Portia: Catherine the Great was truly forward-thinking and progressive. Ambre Russe smells to me what I imagine a Russian sitting room would smell like. I think when you wear it you feel like aristocracy – well obviously I do.

Wikipedia

Florence Nightingale (1820-1921)
Sharp by Andrea Maack (2010)
Notes: White musk, Orange blossom, Vanilla

Portia: Being in England I thought I’d pick someone particularly English. I’ve chosen Sharp. It starts medicinal but ends up an incredibly warm fragrance. What did anyone else pick?

Audience member: White Linen, Estee Lauder.

Wikipedia

Tz’u Hsi (1835-1908)
Opium by YSL (1977)
Notes: Bergamot, Clove, Jasmine, Coriander, Laurel, Mandarin, Pepper, Plum, Citruses, Orris root, Lily-of-the-valley, Carnation, Patchouli, Peach, Rose, Sandalwood, Cinnamon, Amber, Benzoin, Coconut, Musk, Myrrh, Opoponax, Sandalwood, Tolu balsam, Vanilla, Vetiver, Frankincense, Cedar, Cistus

Portia: I call her Suzy. I’ve chosen Opium by YSL and we have some of the Parfum from the last century. Back then it was a kitchen sink fragrance – they threw everything into it. It lasts eternally on a scarf.

Wikipedia

Eleanor Roosevelt (1884-1962)
Rose sur Reuse by SOIVOHLE (2012)
Notes: Tuberose, Red rose, Red berries, Parma violet, Jasmine, Lily, Lilac, Orchid, Oakmoss, Vanilla, Woods, Musk

Portia: Eleanor really helped to create America so I thought I’d pick an American perfumer, Liz Zom of SOIVOHLE. Rose sur Reuse is a rose and tuberose fragrance.

Vanessa of Bonkers About Perfume: I thought of Private Collection, Estee Lauder.

Flickr

Katharine Hepburn (1907-2003)
Gentlewoman by Juliette Has a Gun (2015)
Notes: Bergamot, Neroli, Almond, Woody musk, Orange blossom

Portia: When I was a kid the women ran everything so I dreamt that when I grew up I’d be like Katharine Hepburn. Clearly I have her poise. I’ve chosen Gentlewoman by Juliette Has A Gun. It smells like a men’s cologne on a beautiful woman. I know some perfumistas need to be challenged every time they breathe in, but this is just really good. Any other suggestions?

Audience members: “Jicky” “Eau Sauvage as it’s so fresh” “Chanel No.5”

YouTube

Rosa Parks (1913-2005)
Ashoka by Neela Vermeire Creations (2013)
Notes: Fig leaf, Leather, Lotus, Mimosa, Fig milk, Osmanthus, Rose, Water hyacinth, Vetiver, Storax, Frankincense, Sandalwood, Myrrh, Tonka bean, Fir balsam

Portia: I’ve chosen Ashoka because although Rosa Parks was prominent in the civil rights movement, she looks like she had a softness about her. Ashoka starts strong and strident but ends up being a creamy figgy vanilla.

Wikipedia

Elizabeth Taylor (1932-2011)
Byzance by Rochas (1987)
Notes: Aldehydes, Basil, Carnation, Spices, Green notes, Cardamom, Mandarin, Lemon, Citruses, Aniseed, Orris root, Jasmine, Lily-of-the-valley, Rose, Tuberose, Ylang-ylang, Amber, Heliotrope, Musk, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Cedar

Portia: What a heartbreaker she was. I’ve chosen a discontinued gem – Byzance by Rochas. It smells so fabulous on skin that I’m putting some on and walking my fat arse up and down the aisle.
Portia proceeds to windmill her arms through the audience exclaiming “I AM sillage!”

Wikipedia

Sylvia Earle (1935- )
Beyond Paradise by Estee Lauder (2003)
Notes: Bergamot, Blue hyacinth, Jabuticaba, Orange blossom, Philodendron, Jasmine, Italian honeysuckle, Orchid, Mahonia , Ambrette seed, Broad-leaved paperbark, Natal plum blossom, Zebrano wood

Portia: I’ve chosen Beyond Paradise for oceanographer Sylvia Earle because it’s American, a beautiful fragrance and it used to come in a bottle the shades of the sea. They’ve taken some of the breathy jasmine out of the current version.

Audience member: I thought of Lauren or Aliage by Estee Lauder because they’re outdoorsy.

Portia: I also considered Womanity.

Wikipedia

Oprah Winfrey (1954-)
M7 by Yves Saint Laurent
Notes: Bergamot, Mandarin, Rosemary Heart: Oud, Vetiver, Mandragora, Amber, Musk

Portia: Oprah is a woman who has changed the face of the world. M7 was the first oud in mainstream perfumery and it has a real smoothness. The oud and vetiver gives it a kind of petrol-y greenness. It’s fabulous but weird. No wonder it never made any money. Can you still get it?

Nick Gilbert: It’s been relaunched as M7 Oud Absolu.

Portia: Any other suggestions for Oprah?

Audience member: Ambre Sultan (Serge Lutens).

Government.ru

Angela Merkel (1954-)
Black Saffron by Byredo (2012)
Notes: Honey pomelo, Saffron, Juniper berry, Leather, Rose, Black violet, Blond woods, Raspberry, Vetiver

Portia: Black Saffron is sheer and radiant but tough. It smells of petrichor – rain hitting hot tar. I think Angela is tough but has a sweetness.

Well, it’s been amazing to see you all and so many happy faces! (Huge applause)

Val (Cookie Queen), Grant (Basenotes), Lila (Perfume Lovers London),
Antonio Gardoni (Bogue Profumo), Portia Turbo (APJ)

Hope you enjoyed this taster of the Portia Turbo experience. We were all still buzzing long after the event was over. It was such a thrill.
Let me know in the comments if you have any fragrant suggestions for these great women.
Tara xxx

(Ed: Go visit A Bottled Rose)

Esxence: The Scent of Excellence 2016

March 23, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 28 Comments

Post by Val the Cookie Queen

I am about to head off to my third Esxence -The Scent of Excellence perfume and beauty trade show. Esxence 2016 is
the eighth show and represented by the eight becoming the sign of infinity. Esxence 2016 is … “The endless flow of time” not to mention sniffing one’s self into a coma.

Esxence: The Scent of Excellence 2016

Milano. March 31 – April 3 2016

To Infinity and Beyond

I shall be traveling with my long suffering partner-in-crime, therapist and dear friend Dr. Fox. Vero Kern will be joining us in Milan to complete the formidable trio of women on the go.

APJ: Esxence Web Friends

This year I am a little more organised, inasmuch as I have made a list of presentations and stands that I want to attend and visit. The last two years have been a bit random. Australian Perfume Junkies are official web friends of the Esxence and I would like to take more advantage of what the Esxence has to offer. Please take look at the Esxence site and give me a hand. Perhaps there is something you APJs think I shouldn´t miss? It is nice to see the APJ banner on the Esxence homepage. You can of course click the Esxence GIF link right here on our own APJ page. The magnolias will be in full bloom in Milan and spring will have sprung. The Perfume Magpie will be there, the Colognoisseur, and The Chemist in a Bottle to name but a few. I have decided to attend some of the cocktail party launches this year instead of passing out with exhaustion in the hotel and watching Italian TV. I will be taking a nap in the afternoon. And be keeping up a regular intake of espresso.

Esxence and Esxkin, perfume and skincare. Very exciting. I’ll try and keep you updated with photographs as I go along. Check in on the APJ Facebook and Twitter. Neela Vermeire Créations will be my first stop.
I hope being web friends includes meeting Charlotte and Wilbur, and perhaps a dinner date with Spiderman.

Yes I am taking cookies.
Stay Tuned.
Ciao. QC xxxxx

NEWS: Michael Edwards’ Fragrances of the World 2016

March 22, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 6 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

To their absolute credit, Michael Edwards, ‘the perfume experts expert’ and his Fragrances of the World team have once again produced the industries only comprehensive, accurate and impartial fragrance classification annual.

Luca Turin accurately states: it is “…a map, the only one in existence, which lets everyone, beginner or pro, set out into the mysterious world of perfume”

Michael Edwards’ Fragrances of the World 2016

32nd Edition: April release

The small team undertakes an immense workload to stay abreast of the wave…or should I say tsunami of global fragrances launched each year. In 2014, 1768 new fragrances were launched and in 2015 there were 2044 – the first time more than 2000 have occurred over any 12 month period. To illuminate you a little into their workday, a minimum of 6 fragrances per day require evaluation, 8 if weekends are excluded and holidays ignored! Considering the rigorous classification methods employed by Michael and the team – evaluating every new fragrance and crosschecking the results with the brands and the perfumers to ensure accuracy – you have to wonder if they ever sleep?!

For this edition, a change in design, binding and layout was necessary to accommodate the sheer quantity of fragrances now showcased between the covers. Michael explains the eruption of new artisan fragrances, more than 800 compared to some 500 in 2014 and the increase in “collections, collections and more collections” as the reason for the steep rise in numbers.

Presented in both French and English, this year’s data is showcased alongside captivating imagery of raw perfume ingredients. The work of internationally acclaimed Australian floral artist Saskia Havekes of Grandiflora. The images define each family and illustrate the raw emotion and textures of the fragrance groups.

A forward by Luca Turin, renowned fragrance critic and commentator, impresses the magnitude of Michael’s work labeling him ‘the Linnaeus of perfume’ and describing Fragrances of the World ® as ‘’the only comprehensive, historically accurate, factually reliable and artistically consistent database of fragrance in existence.’

Michael is indeed the industry’s only impartial and independent authority. He makes no charge for listing or classifying new fragrances, declining both advertising and sponsorship. This year sees feminine, masculine and shared (unisex) fragrances merged into one consolidated index, with gender colour coded. Discontinued fragrances now are separately indexed for easier referencing.

Known fondly as ‘the fragrance bible,’ each edition is a collector’s item, keepsake, object of desire and THE industry’s go-to, exhaustive, encyclopedic reference. A masterpiece. Irreplaceable to the industry and to this day, unmatched. Each volume is an historic capsule of this moment in time, in fragrance, and all that has lead up to it.

“I use his book and database practically every day, and never cease to be amazed at the connections it allows me to make, the insights it provides, the “aha!” moments it springs on me. “ Luca Turin

Available from www.fragrancesoftheworld.com from April. WE NEED THIS EDITION, I can assure you.

Have you ever owned/seen/used a copy? Tell me some of your “aha!” moments.

Xx Ainslie

Hello by Harvey Prince Organics 2014 + GIVEAWAY

March 21, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 34 Comments

Post by Azar

Hey – Howzit, APJ!

I recently stumbled upon the fragrances of Harvey Prince Organics, a perfume house named after two brothers, one who went to Harvard, the other to Princeton (hence Harvey Prince Organics). When I first read about how this house got its name I immediately thought of my Hawaiian friend who tends to flow into pidgin at the drop of a hat. I can just hear her referring to these guys as “high maka-maka” or “ivory league”. Now please excuse my pathetic attempts at pidgin. I don’t mean to talk stink here, perfume pals. A fragrance house can call itself anything it wants to. I have a problem, though, with how Harvey Prince uses the terms “organic” and “natural”. What are the two brothers referring to? What exactly do those words mean – to them?

Harvey Prince Organics

What Does That Mean?

As far as I’m concerned, the term “natural”, in reference to perfume, can suggest just about anything taken or processed from nature – and that covers, well, just about everything. The Harvey Prince tag “Organics” is more problematic and gives the impression that the USDA or some other regulatory agency certifies these fragrances to be organic. Defining “natural” and “organic” in relation to perfume brings to mind yet another difficult word – “is”. Who remembers the famous US politician who just couldn’t figure out what the meaning of “is” was? But I digress. Let me tell you a little bit about one of Harvey Prince Organics’ “natural” fragrances.

Harvey Prince Organics

Hello by Harvey Prince Organics 2014

Harvey Prince Organics gives these featured accords:
Meyer Lemon, White Grapefruit, Satsuma Mandarin, Summer Forsythia, Pink Plumeria, Wild Verbena, Tahitian Vanilla, Sensual Musk. Style: Welcoming. Loving. Refreshing…”

Hello is one of the house’s newer frags. The following description is taken directly from the website: “…The world’s a busy place. Let time stand still for a moment and with one spritz taste the sweetness of Meyer lemon in your cold glass of lemonade. Smell the pink plumerias budding and revel in the jubilant tweets of the nearby hummingbird. Before diving back into reality, say “Hello” to your body and soul…

Pixabay

I was surprised to find that my body and soul actually enjoyed Hello. This perfume is reminiscent of my favorite cheapie, Curve Kicks, minus the effect of the screaming synthetics. It is highly likely that the same synthetics (AKA aroma chemicals) are used in Hello, but with a bit more subtlety and sophistication. The overall impression is that of a well-crafted, light, invigorating lemon/tropical floral combo. I am very fond of several other Harvey Prince fragrances too, including Bailando and Yogini but find their Ageless perfume to be a total scrubber. I have to admit that it is comforting to know that Harvey Prince Organics “…WILL NEVER CONTAIN any harmful chemicals such as phthalates, parabens, sulfates, benzene, GMOs, or triclosan.” HP goes on to describe their products as “karma-free”. What the heck does that mean?

Azar xx

myprettypaints

Harvey Prince Organics GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

Today we will have one winner who will receive:
1 x 7ml roller-ball of Hello
P&H Worldwide

HOW DO YOU WIN?

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please tell us if you have ever been put off by the name of a fragrance or the image of a house. Also, have you ever heard of a “karma-free” perfume or experienced Harvey Prince Organics?

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Thursday 24th March 2016 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winner will be chosen by random.org
The winner will have till Sunday 27th March 2016 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Spock you latah! In the meantime learn some Hawaiian pidgin here:

Narciso Rodriguez For Her EDP by Christine Nagel + Francis Kurkdjian for Narciso Rodriguez 2006

March 20, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 5 Comments

Post by Anne-Marie

Curse you Narciso Rodriguez! Why are your fragrances packaged and named alike? Brand cohesion is one thing, but have you no sympathy for your customers (or their hapless friends who try to buy for them)?

Well, applying my attention to the list on Fragrantica, I realised that the 31 listed NR fragrances are all just variations on just four pillar fragrances: For Her, For Him, Essence, and Narciso.

Got it? You’re welcome.

Today I’m going to cover NR’s second release, Narciso Rodriguez For Her EDP. This is the one with the PINK bottle and the BLACK box.

Narciso Rodriguez For Her EDP 2006

Narciso Rodriguez For Her EDP by Christine Nagel + Francis Kurkdjian

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: rose, peach
Heart: musk, amber
Base: sandalwood, patchouli

Portia has done a stellar review of the original EDT, but there is a difference in emphasis in the EDP. Intimate and sensual, both are musky florals with very clean (fractionated) patchouli and amber. On me the sillage and longevity of both are just moderate.

However, I remember the EDT (I’ve sold my bottle) as sharper and drier – more masculine perhaps – than the EDP. What distinguishes the EDP for me is a prominent note of peach, juicy but not too sweet. This is what I hoped Lancome’s Tresor would be like if it did not collapse into a sickly sweet, artificial mess on me.

Narciso Rodriguez – Fall 2016 – NYFW

However, not everyone seems to particularly notice the peach in NR For Her EDP. The fascination with Narciso Rodriguez fragrances is that there are wide variations in how people perceive them. You might love the EDP but utterly disagree with my take on it.

While musk is the common accord in both concentrations of Narciso Rodriguez For Her, people nevertheless react differently to other notes and accords. They will detect more or less rose, more or less amber, more or less citrus, more or less orange blossom (I get none), and so on. Musk anosmia means that some people can hardly smell them at all.
For years I eked out a large decant of the EDP. Mostly I wore it when travelling for work. Its casual but professional style was perfect for meetings, but even better was to save it for the evenings when I was in the hotel and at could at last take a shower and relax. Any parent of young children will understand the heaven of being alone in a hotel room with the bathroom, room service and the TV remote entirely at your command. NR For Her EDP easily complements moments of simple enjoyment such as this.

Pixabay

Further reading: Perfume Shrine and Perfume Posse
FragranceNet has $78/50ml before Coupon
My Perfume Samples has from $2.50/ml to $7.50/5ml

I’m now the possessor of a partial bottle of the EDP, and very happy I am too.

How about you? How do you go navigating the Narciso Rodriguez line? What are your ‘simple pleasures’ perfumes?

N.B.: If you click and buy from the My Perfume Samples link I get a kickback

Patchouli Imperial by Francois Demachy for Christian Dior 2011

March 19, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 24 Comments

Post by Portia

Hi there Fragrant Family,

Since we’ve been back from holidays I have spent a little time hunting through the decant/split section of my collection. There is so much choice here, enough for three lifetimes of fragrant addiction that unless I really set out to search the outlying areas things get forgotten. I remember trying today’s fragrance once when I bought this decant and being sadly unimpressed but last night I gave it a spritz before bed and this morning I still smell beautiful. softly tinted with the scent of …..

Patchouli Imperial by Christian Dior 2011

Patchouli Imperial by Francois Demachy

La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Patchouli Imperial Dior for men Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Sicilian mandarin, Calabrian bergamot, Coriander, Indonesian patchouli, cedarwood, sandalwood essence

So I wore Patchouli Imperial again today, all day, and I’ll be wearing it to bed again tonight. In 1.5 days I’ve gone through about 4ml of my 10ml decant. That’s some serious fragrance use. Why? Because suddenly I have fallen madly in love and it’s so absolutely wearable. It was perfect last night as a sleep scent, today while blogging and organising stuff. It was also a winner to go to the physio and shopping afterwards. Then tonight my BFF Kath and I went and ate a WHOLE PEKING DUCK with pancakes, greenery and Hoisin sauce. OMG! I’m so freaking full right now, you have no idea.

DIOR

How does it smell? Well, the citrus burns off fairly quickly and a waxy, woody, green-but-not patchouli that reminds me of the SJP Lovely patchouli/musk but a little more barber shop styled. The woods are there too but in a just polished retro furniture way. The whole fragrance smells smooth, stylish and uncomplicated; more of a fragrant wash that a loud signature statement.

Patchouli Imperial smells to me like a perfect office scent. It is fragrant but not overbearing, could be quite ambient until you get in really close and realise that freaking amazing almost smell is this person. I could also imagine it haunting someone who smelled it on you afterwards. Doomed to be forever seeking that perfect and unattainable fragrance that was once smelled on this person at work, in a restaurant or at a party. Great fragrance to leave on a lovers sheets too.

Flickr

Further reading: Australian Perfume Junkies and Olfactoria’s Travels
Available at DIOR stand alone stores, large department stores and now big airports (ask)
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $3.25/ml

Are you a patchouli fan? Which of the DIOR Privé line do you love most?
Portia xx

Coccobello by James Heeley for Heeley 2013

March 16, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 24 Comments

Post by Poodle

It’s painfully cold out. I’m not going to say its freezing because we dropped below that about 30F degrees ago. The wind is making it feel worse but by the time you read this I will be slightly warmer I hope. I’ll be heading towards spring and you folks down under will be trying to hang on to your summer.

Coccobello by Heeley 2013

Coccobello by James Heeley

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Palm leaf, gardenia
Heart: Coconut, sea salt, vanilla
Base: Virginia cedar, benzoin, sandalwood

I knew nothing of this scent when I received it in the mail. I glanced at the name and gave it a spray expecting something gourmand with either cocoa or coconut, something cozy to warm my heart. What I wasn’t expecting was a blast of green and saltiness. Oh sure, there’s some sweetness in there as well but instead of a warm fuzzy blanket, Coccobello is a trip to the beach.

PublicDomain

Coccobello opens with the smell of crushed palm leaves. It’s potent and a bit harsh at first. Don’t go sticking your nose into it just yet or you might go running for the sink to wash. If you hate green notes the opening might be a little difficult but it doesn’t linger here for long before some other notes shine through. The coconut starts to emerge but it is also green and unsweetened. It’s not the coconut oozing with sugar that I’m used to smelling. There’s a faint gardenia note but it’s quite subdued and never enters big white floral territory. It adds sweetness but not in a sugary way. Now drench all that with salt water. I smell a hint of cedarwood as well. At no point do I think dessert, cocktails, or anything fruity which is the usual direction of beachy tropical perfumes.

Once my initial shock of it not being a sweet gourmand wore off I enjoyed Coccobello as a beach scent. As you wear it the perfume loses the sharpness of the palm note and takes on the aroma of sun warmed skin cooled by salty water. It calls to mind Bronze Goddess by Estée Lauder but Coccobello seems far more unisex to me. Guys, if you’re looking for a coconut scent that isn’t too girly this might be it. For those of you who find typical beach or tropical perfumes too sweet, fruity, flowery, or aquatic I think Coccobello might be worth a sniff. I will say again that that heavy green up front might be a deal breaker for quite a few folks. I know salt is also a love/hate note for a lot of you too. This is a grown up tropical scent and I think it deserves more attention than it gets but I can understand it will be challenging for some.

Pixabay

Coccobello reminds me of summer, suntan lotion, and the beach. Right now all of those things seem worlds away.

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and Scent for Thought
LuckyScent has $180/100ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $5.40/ml

What perfumes have you tried that were completely different from what you were expecting?

Hugs
Poodle

Wearing Perfume: Different Ways of Testing

March 14, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 25 Comments

Post by Tina G

Hi APJ!

I’d like to talk a bit about how fragrance application can have a pronounced effect on how it presents on your skin. It is one of the reasons that it is usually worthwhile to test a fragrance a few times to get to “know” it before making judgement calls.

Wearing Perfume: Different Ways of Testing

Burlesque by Maria Candida Gentile 2015

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Blood orange
Heart: Iris pallida, rose
Base: Incense, patchouli

Maria Candida Gentile – Burlesque is a case in point. It was put onto my fragrance radar by Tara from A Bottled Rose, and it sounded like my kind of thing, so a sample was ordered.

On my first two spritzes I held the nozzle close to my arm with a heavy application. And the results were horrifying. All I got was an insipid limp wet patchouli with a hint of smoke in the background. I quite like patch, but there was nothing nice about what I was smelling. It was less ‘Burlesque’ and more ‘fetid water nymph’. One of my written notes was “try a lighter spray”. So I did.

A gentle swish of a spritz at a distance, and wafting my arm through the residual aerated fragrance was a totally different result. At once I could smell a warm rounded orange, which was totally absent previously, and it came through with a fab sexy powdery iris and sweet pink rose. That brought a smile and a nod – so that is what this fragrance is all about! It was balanced very differently, warm and inviting with the patchouli grounding it instead of swamping (good word, actually…) and the pale smokiness bringing an interesting dimension to the whole picture. Really gorgeous and very wearable.

There are some fragrances which are better dabbed – for me most of the Serge Lutens work really well like this, even though they come with sprayers. Of course, be really wary of spraying Parfum strength *anything*. I’ve done serious (temporary) damage to my nose trying this approach. Unless it is a Vero Profumo in which case they are designed for spraying. (and if you’ve never tried any of Vero’s fragrances, drop everything and order samples NOW).

Chimaera by Paolo Terenzi for Tiziana Terenzi 2014

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Black pepper, lemon, saffron, leather, tolu balsam, thyme, bay leaf, soil tincture
Heart: Iris, red pepper, carnation, peony, honey, magnolia, sage
Base: Patchouli, cashmere wood, labdanum, benzoin, caramel, agarwood (oud), tobacco, canadian balsam, leather, pine tree

Another worthwhile trial is to give fragrances a run through in different seasons. Something which does not work for you in summer may be altogether fabulous in winter. Tiziana Terenzi – Chimaera is like this for me. In winter it is complex and kinetically marbled with a lemon and honey keeping a weaving thread through leather, bay and basalm. I found at four wonderfully distinct stages during dry down – so exciting! In summer, on my skin it turns into a gourmand thick with caramel and saffron, the honey and lemon are still present but it is much more linear and to my nose not so interesting.

Have you had any successes or failures with your fragrance testing? What have been the lessons learnt?

Tina G xx

Beauty Surprises: Finding The Good Shit!

March 13, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 23 Comments

Post by AF Beauty

Beauty Surprises

L’Occitane

I had been reading online about the shower oil from L’Occitane, so on my recent shopping trip I popped in store and had a look at the oil with a plan to purchase. When I arrived and checked out the oil, first there was a sharp intake of breath at the price and then a furrowed brow at the packaging.

The oil was in a container with a press lid, that looks like this. I wasn’t impressed, so much so that I didn’t make the purchase. These sorts of lids make product dispensing almost impossible and if I dropped the bottle in the shower it would surely spill oil everywhere and I would likely slip and die, only to be eaten by the cat. Death in mind, I moved on.

Finding The Good Shit!

L’Occitane

However, I had the idea of oil in my head, so I carried on looking around and found this body oil, aptly named Shea Fabulous Oil. Here, breath intake was even sharper for this costs an eye watering $45. But for me, so far, it is worth every cent. The oil is designed for use on hair and body, I’ve not used it on my hair, but my body has had a good lathering. My usually flakey and scaley legs have been transformed. For the first time in a long time, I have legs that look like they belong on my body and aren’t some lost limbs of an aged dinosaur.

Priceline

I have been raving about this oil, mostly to myself, for the last couple of weeks, but I wasn’t necessarily convinced that *this* particular oil was that special, (hi, my name is AF Beauty and I’m a cynic.) so I went off and found a cheaper option and found this Garnier Ultimate Beauty Oil costing $12. At face value, this oil isn’t too bad. It promises to be a dry oil, not affect your clothes and to moisturise the skin. I used this after the gym for the first time and it was good. It is light and my skin did feel smooth after using it. As I’ve been using the Shea oil for a few weeks already, I can’t say at this point whether it would have had the same long term effect – I will have to wait until the Shea is all used to answer that. *BUT* I did notice, that despite saying it was a dry oil, the Garnier oil did linger on the skin a bit too much, to the point where I couldn’t cross my legs without them feeling very greasy – a feeling I don’t get from the shea oil and it’s a horrible feeling.

I really can’t recommend the L’Occitane Shea Fabulous Oil enough, it is truly a surprise find for me that has been well worth the cost. One of my favourite things about beauty products is finding that one that surprises and delivers more than you ever expected, it is an unusual treat.

What products have you found that have surprised and delighted?