L`Interdit Givenchy: LIVE Video Sniff

February 19, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 5 Comments

Post by Portia

Hey Happy Huffers,

This is one of Scott’s favourite fragrances. To be honest I’d never knowingly sniffed it. He loves it, and has loved it for years. It was really lovely of him to bring his amazing parfum find for us to do an opening video of, it’s nice to share the moment.

L`Interdit by Francis Fabron for Givenchy 1957

LIVE Video Sniff

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Aldehydes, spices, mandarin orange, peach, bergamot, strawberry
Heart: Iris, violet, narcissus, orris root, jasmine, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley, rose
Base: Sandalwood, amber, musk, benzoin, vetiver, tonka bean

If you have never smelled vintage L’Interdit parfum do yourself a favour and stay far away from its loveliness. Who needs an expensive, discontinued, nightmare to find obsession?

Mitsouko by Guerlain vintage parfum C1988

February 18, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 6 Comments

Post by Portia

Hi there Vintage Frag Freaks,

You know I’m a bit of a Guerlainophile? Well, I rather like their work. Recently I picked up a little bottle of the parfum, used but still about 80% full, in the iconic bottle, only 7.5ml. Well I can’t stop dabbing it. It sits here on my desk and calls to me with its luscious sweet fruity dryness and what can I do but indulge?

Mitsouko by Guerlain vintage parfum C1988

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, Lemon, Mandarin, Neroli, Jasmine, Rose
Heart: Peach, Rose, Clove, Ylang-Ylang, Lilac, Jasmine
Base: Oakmoss, Labdanum, Patchouli, Benzoin, Vetiver, Cinnamon

Tonight, quite late, I drew the bath and put some Radox Bath Salts in. About half way through the running I decided to add in 15 drops of Jo Malone Red Roses Bath Oil. Suddenly the room smelled unbelievable, deep, blood red roses, dry black tea and the crackle of split branch and wood. We are having an unseasonal summer cold snap so I made the water lovely and hot. An hour later I arose like an extremely obese Birth of Venus both clean and rosy, rosy skin and smell.

Having come back to my desk afterwards I had thought I’d wear Mohur or Ballets Rouges but instead decided to dab myself like crazy with Mitsouko. MMMMMMM I smell freaking amazing and the rosy underlay has definitely amped the rosy nature of Mitsouko and given it a whole new more austere and aloof mien than usual. It’s different but lovely, different enough to be a rose Mitsouko flanker and I for me the Red Roses adds a lightness and freshness that is very modern, is there a bunch of white musk under Red Roses? I’m getting them even if there isn’t.

Wikipedia

Still Mitsouko but slightly changed, some air between the heavily constructed, dense, historic notes. An extra swish and zing from the 21st century yet still laid over the intricate, nuanced and slightly dirty grace of one of the most revered fragrances in the books.

Now I have applied a second layer of extrait over the same spots as before and the Mitsouko is pretty much back to normal now. Maybe because I have rose on my mind there is still a large overblown old fashioned fruity cabbage rose in my olfactory picture but the other notes like clove, peach, ylang and amber are much more prominent and noticeable. HA! Maybe I just needed more Mitsouko juice on my skin?

This morning, I wake up to the softest thrill of something not quite me above my skin. My guess is oakmoss and vanilla from Mitsouko and some white musks from Red Roses, it shimmers above my skin but is not really a fragrance. It’s the ghost of the memory of being fragrant.

Geograph

Further reading: Australian Perfume Junkies and Persolaise
Mitsouko can be tried at any department store with a Guerlain counter for FREE. Go spritz lavishly.
Surrender To Chance have vintage parfum samples starting at $10/0.25ml

Please tell us your Mitsouko story? I’d love to read it.
Portia xx

Atelier Cologne: Big Fuss About Atelier Cologne!

February 16, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 8 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

Hello APJ gang!

During the windup of last year I popped into Agence de Parfums Head Quarters and found Nick Smart bent over an interestingly archaic looking machine. It was in fact a leather embossing tool and array of cool looking metal fonts that went with. It was the personalizing tool for the Atelier Cologne travel cases I heard were coming into Australia in time for Christmas. Four of the machines will be on circulation in Australia and New Zealand, ongoing, so perhaps you’ll get to go see?! I know Myers Melbourne had an event in December and Sephora have one planned for the early 2016.

I sat down for a demo and had a play with the range, making a few delicious discoveries from the brand I have neglected until the recent renaissance Down Under! A curious creature, I sniffed about until I had a good overview and here are some snippets I learnt about Atelier Cologne

Atelier Cologne: Big Fuss About Atelier Cologne!

The brand started in 2009 aiming to be the first fragrance house to exclusively “deal” in cologne. However owners Sylvie Ganter and Christophe Cervasel pushed boundaries and have given the classic cologne a big squeeze (get it??), inventing the Cologne Absolue…designed not to disappear but evolve on the skin.

The formula? Take an overdose of traditional citrus notes for transparency, add to these additional raw materials for depth and richness then add a high percentage of this “juice” (15-20%) to the base! The result should be longer lasting power out of cologne style fragrances.

So have they managed it?

My instant eyebrow raises went to:

Fragrantica

Blanche Immortelle was an instant knockout. Packaged in a metallic bottle, smelling unique, heavy and beautiful. Australian sandalwood, immortelle absolute, jasmine, rose, patchouli and vetiver give great velvety depth and impact. Orange, mimosa, mandarin and bergamot add sparkle. For development on skin this is just WOW. Quite a beautiful, intimate journey. I will buy a bottle of this as autumn kicks in.

Fragrantica

Trefle Pur – I JUST LOVE IT. Listed as bitter orange, violet leaves and patchouli I also get a fig and freshly GREEN cut wet grass, moss, patchouli and basil. So so very green and cooling. I feel like a frog hiding under rainforest canopy!

Fragrantica

Bois Blonds – Light, crisp, musky-wood and citrusy white floral blend. It was my final pick to go in my personalized case. Orange blossom for me is always my “happy place”. Combined with jasmine, amber, musk, bergamot, lemon and neroli, it’s an easy to wear, portable fragrance for the upcoming heat of summer. I want to layer this with other fragrances in the day as a “top up” and it will live in my handbag. Not sweet, but CRISP. Perfect.

How cute that Atelier Cologne invites wearers to create their own signature spray bottle by engraving a 30ml leather case for free, to complement any purchase of a full sized bottle! Do you have a stockest near you? Which of the range have you tried? Which were your favourites?

Further reading: Now Smell This
Libertine Perfumerie has the range
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $3/ml

I look forwards to hearing!

Ainslie X

CHANEL No 22 EdT by Jacques Polge for CHANEL 2007

February 12, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 16 Comments

Post by Portia

Hiya Crew,

You know when you’re looking through the decants? You pick a couple up, look at the labels, put them back, repeat, can’t find something to apply even though there is more choice than the regular department store. So I was doing this familiar dance the other day and my hand landed on a decant from a mate in Oz, a big decant in a lavish black spritz travel thing. I thought, OK, why the hell not and…

CHANEL No 22 EdT by CHANEL 2007

CHANEL No 22 by Jacques Polge

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Aldehydes, Lily-of-the-valley, Neroli
Heart: Jasmine, Rose, Ylang-ylang
Base: Vanilla, Vetiver

You may remember I discovered CHANEL No.22 in Paris in 2014 with Michael. Since then a few friends have sent or given me different vintages and strengths (Barbara Carter, Ruth M and another couple that have slipped my mind) and I have loved them all. The thing is, that first incredible overdose from Rue Cambon in Paris will stay with me forever as the most fabulous 22 of my life. We even snuck into the stairs and had our picture taken!! WOO HOO SCORE! Yes, the old ones may be fuller and more animal but walking the streets of Paris, shopping, meeting buddies and generally hanging out have made an unbreakable connection to the modern for me. So often scent is tied up with the memories.

The big soapy, syrupy, fizz of modern CHANEL No 22 that tramples the lily of the valley into plush and velvet submission. The sparkly, soft/sharp scintillation like lights glittering on Christmas tinsel which makes way for the hearts bouquet, still glittering but with a creamy and slightly fruity warmth. Clear as a bell but still comforting, soapy and clean but in a polished crystal way rather than blankets. Aloof but not snobby No 22 is divinely wearable and lasting power is excellent. There is even a cool whisper of oily vetiver and incense(?) through the heart that alongside the still extant aldehydes create a steel sculpture of fragrance as the binding centre, the core story if you like, of No 22.

There’s no denying that CHANEL No 22 is big, if size in fragrance is a problem for you then you may have trouble, also if aldehydes are in any way less than fabulous then you will definitely want to move along. No 22’s aldehydes leave No 5 for dead and didn’t even notice its presence. If longevity gets boring for you or you prefer to wear multiple fragrances in a day then again, probably steer clear BUT if you want a super fabulous signature fragrance that will wrap you up warm and tight and with a sillage of a size that will give waterskiers trick jumps, a smooth, glamorous, soapy extravaganza? Try CHANEL No 22.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

Further reading: Perfume Posse and Candy Perfume Boy
CHANEL online, stand alone beauty + fashion stores and large department stores
Surrender To Chance has EdT samples starting at $4/ml

What do you wear when you want to go big?
Portia xx

Amber Oud by Calice Becker for By Kilian 2011

February 11, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 10 Comments

Post by Portia

Hi there Fragrant Fiends,

Oudh. The 21st centuries answer to IFRA compliant base notes. It is the ubiquitous fully fragrant, dark, deep and dirty base note giving a solid grounding to an industry that has lost its regular, centuries old palette to drug companies greed: the modern multinational fragrance component creators. I’m sure it’s a more complex problem and that I’ve missed most of the memos but from the other side of the world this is how it looks to me. Sorry, end rant.

So, I tried Amber Oud around the time it came out and could not justify the spend to myself at that time, 5 years on I wondered if my thoughts had changed with the ever increasing price of fragrance. Was $395 a reasonable price for something I remember being so lovely, and reading the other reviews written at that time it was as special as I remember and many others were happy to drop that kind of cash on it.

Amber Oud by By Kilian 2011

Amber Oud by Calice Becker

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Amber, Benzoin, Spices, Oud, Vanilla, Cedar

Softest, plushest, tamest oudh ever. So gorgeously rolled and folded into the spicy vanilla/amber bakery and only held slightly dry by the crispness of cedar. Warm and enveloping I can see why even the oudh haters love Amber Oud so. Lightly medicinal, a tiny hint of band aid and only the merest waft of poop Amber Oud is almost a gourmand oudh, oudh light or kiddies oudh. So velvet soft and cozy, as close to a warm beige cashmere lounge throw as oudh can be. Delightful, sweet, sensational and gorgeous: the words that jump into my head while sniffing are not the usual ones associated with oudh in my experience. The By Kilian crew have created the most fabulous general public oudh and it makes me smile.

The amber is sweet and caramelised, lit from within and effulgent Ambre Oud grows more and more lovely. Very reminiscent through its heart of the L’Artisan L’Eau d’Ambre, a similar warmth and purity. It stays pretty and buoyant and luxurious, the most expensive caramel toffee.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

Here’s my quandry: yes this is lovely. It’s incredibly wearable, luxurious and gorgeous, no doubt about it. When I press my nose to my fragrant spots it is utterly swoon worthy. When it’s not so close, when I’m catching whiffs of it as I go about my day, Amber Oud is not a lot better than 50 other ambers on the market. From Queen Latifah through L’Artisan, Nicolai to Giorgio Armani: yes they are all different but at arms length the differences are not so pronounced, yummy amber. Is Amber Oud at $395 from $370-$150 better? Is it really? I hang my head in shame because for me the answer is no…. I’ll put my decant away and try it again one day, maybe then?

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and Bois de Jasmin
LuckyScent has $395/50ml
Surrender To Chance has $5/0.5ml

What is your cut off point? Do you have one? How important is having something in your collection?
Portia xx

Pink Sugar Sensual by Aqualina 2009

February 10, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 10 Comments

Post by Poodle

Definition of Sensual: of or arousing gratification of the senses and physical, especially sexual, pleasure

I always think Pink Sugar is one of those perfumes whose target audience is the younger crowd, I’m talking tweens and teens. It seems odd to me to have a flanker called Sensual for that demographic but hey, what do I know?

Pink Sugar Sensual by Aqualina 2009

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Black currant, tangerine, bergamot
Heart: Orange blossom, jasmine petals, tiare
Base: Vanilla, black sugar, sandalwood

I do know that the original Pink Sugar is a guilty pleasure for a lot of you. You’ve got a bottle or maybe a rollerball hidden on your perfume shelf and you never tell anyone about it for fear that’ll revoke your perfumista card. I received Pink Sugar Sensual as a gift. I like the original but don’t own it. I had hopes for Pink Sugar Sensual as being more grown up and less candy floss but my idea of sensual is not what this perfume is.

Bright, juicy sugar crusted mandarins, oranges, clementines…pick any orange citrus fruit. It’s in here. Citrus isn’t sensual to me but let’s see where this goes.

Not very far actually. The citrus and some other fruity notes linger a bit. It’s sweet and I don’t think there’s much that’s natural in this bottle so to sniff my skin up close it’s a bit harsh to me. Better to sniff from a safe distance. It’s not bad just not something I’d want to cuddle up with.

WikiMedia

I know there are floral notes because the list tells me there are but honestly all I get is fruit. Eventually the vanilla becomes noticeable and tempers the juiciness. I don’t smell the licorice which others have mentioned in other reviews. I’m assuming that’s what the black sugar note might be but I really have to force myself to find any licorice.

I know I’m not making a strong case for this one. It’s really not terrible but in my opinion the original is more sensual than Sensual. If you’re looking for a sweet citrusy scent that is cheap and cheerful give this one a try. If you’ve got a fruity perfume like one of the Britney Spears or Taylor Swift perfumes you probably don’t need this. I’ll also add that at no point during wearing this do I feel sensual or want to writhe around on the floor in my unmentionables like the model in the ad. I’m sure the husband would be thrilled if it worked like that. Sadly, as I’m writing this I’m in my pajamas, bathrobe, and slippers, none of which match, and I’m not feeling the least bit sexy or sensual. Warm and comfy? Yes. Sensual? Not so much. We both agree that at least I smell reasonably good compared to some other things I’ve sampled recently.

Pixabay

Further reading: Now Smell This
FragranceNet has $28/100ml before Coupon

Have you tried this? Do you like Pink Sugar? Confess. I won’t judge.

Hugs
Poodle

AF Beauty Travels to Singapore

February 7, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 4 Comments

Post by AF Beauty

I have been lucky enough to travel to the U.K. this December and as part of that trip I stopped over in Singapore. Although I would tell anyone this was to try and avoid the jet lag and to break up the ridiculous flight (and that is true,) the other part of the reason is because Singapore has such diverse and numerous shops, especially in the beauty department!

AF Beauty Travels to Singapore

For a while, I have had my eye on the Korean brand Laneige, they are well known for their cushion foundation, but I had had such an average experience with the Lancôme version of the same, that I wasn’t sure that I wanted to risk spending money on the Laneige version – but I was enticed into the store when I saw their beauty app on their iPad in store.

It is called Beauty Mirror. It’s probably the best version of this sort of app I’ve ever seen, it does actually work like you’re applying makeup realistically, so much so that I probably thought I looked relatively decent by the time I finished, but really that was just what I’d “applied” In the app!! I was very impressed how accurate the colours were and how realistically they applied to my photo. I’d feel a lot more comfortable to take the risk to order colour specific items online with this app. The downside of the app (depending on your location or willingness to create another iTunes account) is that I’ve only found the app in the Korean iTunes Store. Still, I will probably make the effort to get it if I want to order more Laneige products.

Anyway, back to the actual goodies, after having a okay with the app I estimated the best colour foundation for me and asked the SA for some help. She offered me a slightly different colour, based on the fact that my skin is Caucasian as opposed to Asian, but reverted back to the original app recommendation which was a perfect match. They offer the same shades in three different formulations and she led me down the path of getting the anti ageing version, which I read as, “Lady you look old!”

Anyway, insults aside, I have being using the product now for about a week, have used it as regular morning makeup and after the gym and both have been very successful. The coverage is considerably better than the Lancôme version I previously tried and I feel I could wear it comfortably without powder for a more natural look, or add powder for something more long lasting and set. That SA did advise me that the anti ageing version had more coverage than the original version, so perhaps that is part of the better outcome here.

Overall I’m super pleased I took the gamble on the product and now better understand the hype around these products. I’m planning to do some research on other Laneige products so I’m better prepared for my next travels and will know what to stock up on!

What are your key travel purchases?? Being perfumistas, do you even have time to browse the other items in duty free or are you caught only by what’s on offer in the perfume aisle?!!

Mark the Date Sydney: Perfume Expo October 2016

February 7, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 2 Comments

Post by Suzanne R Banks

Hi APJ,

Be part of the revolution of natural fragrance, beauty and sensuality!
Join us for the very first Artisan Botanical Perfume Expo being held in Sydney 2016.

Australasian Artisan Botanical Perfume Expo October 2016

Our aim is to demonstrate that these divine gifts from Mother Nature are more than beautiful aromatic plants. They hold a life force of their own that when inhaled transport you to another place and time. This alone gives them amazing healing properties, in addition to the beautiful and captivating scents they hold.

We are botanical perfumers from the southern hemisphere passionate about educating the world on the beauty of natural Botanical perfumes. Be part of the revolution of natural fragrance, beauty, sensuality, health and wellbeing.Our focus is Artisan Botanical Perfumery. We create truly beautiful and deeply evocative scents made with Mother Natures gifts and love. Every perfume has a story and is as unique as you.Using natural ingredients, essential oils and botanical extracts, we strive to give you the best botanical perfumes in the world.
Many of the essential oils and botanical extracts we use are from the most remote places in the world, grown and harvested under rigorous quality guidelines consistently preserving their finest essences. Let us not forget our distinctive and peerless Australian natives in some of the collections.

It’s going to be really fun and we’d love to see you there.
Suzanne R Banks

********************************************************************************

Like our Facebook page to stay tuned for more info on the inaugural

Australasian Artisan Botanical Perfume Expo in Sydney, October 2016

********************************************************************************

Check out my YouTube Channel too, thanks
Suzanne R Banks Blog
Suzanne R Banks Aromatherapy
Suzanne R Banks FaceBook

Please check out my new book REVELATION! – Reveal Your Destiny with Essential Oils

Amazon USA Amazon AU Amazon UK

(Ed: Since this post was written the date has changed to October 2016. I have changed title and content to reflect this)

Dark by Julien Rasquinet for Andrea Maack 2011

February 6, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 6 Comments

Post by Portia

Hiya Frag Heads!

I am surprised constantly that there isn’t more noise online about Andrea Maack and her fragrances. Early on there was some chatter about them being derivative but I’m yet to discover a scent that smells markedly like an Andrea Maack. Of course there are notes that correspond, even accords, but the whole fragrances I find distinctive enough to set them well apart even from their most obvious comparisons. Maacks are sometimes challenging and yet ever so wearable. comfortably weird. Yes, I know I’m in the minority here.

Dark by Andrea Maack 2011

Dark by Julien Rasquinet

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Petitgrain, mandarin orange, pink pepper, lemon tree, aldehydes, rose, metallic notes, Granny Smith apple, amber, African orange flower, Virginia cedar

This is a sample that I’ve had for a while and keep getting out, spritzing and putting away.

Dark. Sparkling sweet citrus and cold water in opening. Reminding me of a zinging, sharp, dew spotted early morning at sunrise in very early spring. There is a feeling of briskness and action which quickly morphs into fruity (apple and melon?) rose and a cold metal spoon in your mouth. Or the first sip from an icy cold can of fizzy drink. The fruits become more prominent towards the heart, they are just out of the fridge, and the rose becomes air conditioned. This is a modern metallic radiant rose. The most close resemblance from my memory (not perfect) is modern Eternity Woman by Calvin Klein, yet nothing like it.

Photo Stolen Pixabay

After some time Dark gets a Pez/sherbet feeling that makes me smile, especially floating over the metal rose from Mars.Cruising into dry down the rose becomes colder like it’s frozen solid but curiously warmth surrounds it, the amber brings in a hint of warm resins that take us to the end.

I can see how anyone who wants their fragrant ride to be smooth and cohesive with the department store finish would find Dark disjointed and surreal but that’s one of the things that I really enjoy. If wearing fragrance for my own pleasure then Dark is an excellent choice and it’s not so powerful that people around you will be questioning or freaked out, though longevity is nuclear.

Quietly and subversively weird, perfect.

Photo Stolen Flickr

Further reading: Bonkers About Perfume
LuckyScent has $135/50ml + Samples
Libertine has $185/50ml

Do you have a favourite under rated house? Which one and why?
Portia xx

Rose Musc by Laurie Erickson for Sonoma Scent Studio 2007

February 5, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 12 Comments

Post by Portia

Hi there APJ,

Reading about Rose Musc on the Perfume Posse made me laugh, Tom is hilarious. There are a LOT of rose fragrances in my collection, from my all time favourite rose Mohur by Neela Vermeire Creations through a bunch of Parfum des Rosines, a few oudh/rose frags, and some from independents, designer and niche. There’s something about roses that call to my soul. The ultra smooth, modern sheer heft of Voleur de Roses by L’Artisan Parfumeur to the dark, bitter, unfettered and pulsating Ballets Rouges by Olympic Orchids, I love them all. So if Tom rates it, though not for him, then I thought I better gran some and get it on me.

Rose Musc by Sonoma Scent Studio 2007

Rose Musc by Laurie Erickson

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Sonoma Scent Studio gives these featured accords:
Rose petals, amber, labdanum absolute, skin musks

Roses, Roses, Roses! big a full and fabulous. Blooming dark pink roses with their sweet and spicy, tart apple and plum skin overtones. You know the ones? Maybe 7 to a stem, fabulously opulent looking, as big as your hand and when you touch their open flowers the petals float off the bush leaving a carpet of cerise, as if the bush has been bleeding. Rose Musc is all of that and more.

The labdanum/amber warms the rose and bolsters it, keeping it vegetally sweet and engaging. Where Ballets Rouges is darkened by twig, branch and humus Rose Musc is lighter, smoother and more regal. You still know you are wearing an independent perfumers fragrance, there is none of the pasty and pastel hum drum of the department store designer, nor the delicately overproduced loveliness of the designer prive lines. Rose Musc is adamant, strident and over the top gorgeousness, an oldie-worldie rose that has a Mucha picture as its focus. I chose another Mucha picture that I think captures the soul of Rose Musc even better.

Photo Stolen WikiMedia

Laurie Erickson at Sonoma Scent Studio writes: …I wanted Rose Musc to be a true rose softened by a powdery musk base. I like the innocence of the rose paired with the dusky labdanum and musk. The blend has a very light touch of animalic notes.

Further reading: Perfume Posse and Scent of Abricots
Sonoma Scent Studio has $75/34ml and very reasonable samples

Which is your rose? Have you tried any of the Sonoma Scent Studio work?
Portia xx