DIOR Star by Beatrice Piquet for DIOR 2005

Hey Hey Happy Huffers,

This one has completely flown under my radar. I think my vial may have come as an extra in my shopping from other perfumistas and today I grabbed it out because I adore the DIOR brand with its lavish perfume history of fabulous hits and tragic misses. I have absolutely ZERO recollection of this particular one though and it makes me wonder if we even got it here in Australia? Oh well, come try DIOR Star with me today………

DIOR Star by Beatrice Piquet for DIOR 2005

Dior Star Dior fragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Mandarin orange, petitgrain, bergamot
Heart: Peony, honeysuckle
Base: Almond, musk

Firstly the perfumer Beatrice Piquet is one I’ve not taken any notice of before yet she has a string of blockbuster hits to her name: Burberry The Beat Woman, Bulgari Rose Essentialle, L’Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme + L’Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme Extreme (LIDGE), Paco Rabanne Lady Million and Trussardi Uomo. From 1989-2011 pumping out regular mainstream and designer fragrances.

The note list for 2005 is pretty standard fare here, to be fair the notes could be from a mainstream fragrant release today. So it is with quite a few reservations that I spritz….

SMILE! A lovely fresh citrus burst, so bright and sunny. Nothing groundbreaking but really pretty and coherent. Flesh, rind and pith are all present in a very pretty and 100% unisex opening, a simple cologne-ish citrus that will have your blue day turn to blue sky. Great warm weather wear but I think DIOR Star would also be a wonderful pick me up when its Autumn of winter.

Dior Star Dior Sand Sun Girl rsteve254 PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

The heart is a fairly nondescript floral bouquet, inoffensive and very wearable but it isn’t till the milky almond comes through that DIOR Star becomes interesting again. With the teeniest hint of citrus still smellable, a clean and wet bouquet and this lovely creamy almond playing through all of a sudden DIOR Star is beautiful. Sheer, transparent even, but a beautiful wash that is fragrant but could never overwhelm the people around you. This almond enhanced phase lasts for a while and then collapses into a laundry musk scent that is ubiquitous in perfumery nowadays. Not bad, just banal and still I can imagine it being a super work or close quarters scent. All good but nothing astounding to dry down.

Dior Star Dior  Laudromat Jason Walsh FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Pretty but nothing amazing, DIOR Star does smell very nice and I think it would make an excellent gift choice for a first grown up fragrance, for office wear and/or for people who don’t really like to smell perfumey but like to spritz something to feel dressed properly. Though not a big scent the longevity is excellent and you can spritz & go for nearly the whole day.

FragranceX has $89/50ml

Did you ever get your sniff on DIOR Star?

Miss Piggy & Joan Rivers: Behind The Feud

Hiya APJ Crew,

So maybe I’ve told you before. I styled myself on two legendary superstars and their kiddy re-animations. The two stars? Loretta Switt and Divine. Re-animations? Miss Piggy and Ursula the Sea Witch.

Miss Piggy Ann Martin FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Someone who I thought was kind of funny but admired much more for her dedication and ability to rise in a job where women were less than welcome was Joan Rivers. That kind of tenacity is amazing and even more so when you saw her, a tiny little doll like woman. She was quite old when I met her in Sydney at the Mardi Gras for a very short moment, and she was basically being held up by her minders to get through the crowds, but in my two seconds with her she was lovely. Now she’s gone but there is so much to remember her by.

Joan_Rivers WikiCommonsPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

Here is a super fun piece on the Piggy/Rivers Feud.

After you watch the video, perhaps you’s like to scent these two fabulous women?

Enjoy,

Portia xx

Behind The Feud: Joan Rivers vs. Miss Piggy

Hermès: Observatory of Orange Boxes: Video Series #1

This is fabulous APJ Crew,

You want to talk iconic? The orange box is DEFINITELY an icon in and of itself. I had a blanket box from Hermès  for years till it got ruined. I loved it so dearly, kept it on display like art, and in many ways the Hermès box IS art.

Hermes Box Maegan Tintari  FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

I love it when luxury brands give us whimsical and fun pieces. These little Hermès snippets are so far from what I expect of the old school, stylish and magnificent house of Hermès that when I saw the first one I laughed out loud. This is exactly what I love about the modern age of Guerilla marketing

Enjoy,

Portia xx

Hermès: Observatory of orange boxes – Observation 01

Hermès: Observatory of orange boxes – Observation 02

Hermès: Observatory of orange boxes – Observation 03

Hermès: Observatory of orange boxes – Observation 04

Cuir Cannage by Francois Demachy for Dior 2014

Hello Fashion conscious Fumies,

OOOOW! When I first heard about Cuir Cannage it was a thrilling excitement. I couldn’t wait to get my sniff on it. Immediately I knew it was coming I emailed our Australian DIOR marketing arm and was told I would be contacted on arrival. Well, frankly I couldn’t wait for them, I went and ordered from Surrender To Chance a lovely 3ml spritz. It just arrived, WOO HOO! Let’s wear it together for the first impressions……

Cuir Cannage by Francois Demachy for Dior 2014

Cuir Cannage Dior Fragrantica 1Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Orange blossom, ylang ylang
Heart: Jasmine, rose, leather, iris
Base: Leather, Juniper (cade oil), birch

Instant leather on spritz like you are looking inside a new handbag for something, then a cool green sappy-ness then a warm wet suede shoe (all this happens in about a minute) and then I get a beautiful, sensual night flower that is the fatty orange blossom & the ylang, neither is wholly itself and they’re blended so beautifully that they create a whole new flower, glorious. This section lasts much longer than you’d expect from an opening and I’m really glad.

Cuir Cannage Christian-Dior Lady-Dior HelensPhoto Stolen Helen’s

The leather is new and very slightly earthy when it comes in, a soft and supple leather that I think anyone could wear. Smoked and tanned it reminds me of a very softened and gentrified Knize Ten. There is no fruit note to sweeten it like the Bottega Venetta and it’s not as plush and rounded as CHANEL’s Cuir de Russie but it is lovely and I can imagine it being worn by the boys to work and on dates. The girls will smell super retro in it and I can’t wait to smell Cuir Cannage on some of them, elegant and razor sharp cool. The girls will certainly stand out when wearing Cuir Cannage, nice one DIOR.

Cuir Cannage Christian-Dior PinterestPhoto stolen Pinterest

Further reading: Colognoisseur and Black Narcissus
Surrender To Chance has $3/ml
DIOR has 125ml, 250ml and 450ml available (450ml? WTF!)

How did Cuir Cannage live on you?
Portia xx

 

Gucci Presents: Bamboo Confidential Movie

Hi there GUCCI lovers, and haters,

GUCCI is a brand with heaps of awareness through the ages. Even when no one was buying GUCCI it was still a name associated with lavish lifestyles of the rich and famous. Then came the dreary years when you may have bought GUCCI shoes, they were exquisitely produced even to the turn of the century, but not much else. Then Tom Ford came and reignited the brand, brought it to a whole new world of middle classes who wanted to feel rich & famous and who could afford some fragrance, a belt, some shoes or if very lucky a suit/gown/skirt etc

Gucci Bamboo Confidential amsterdam-ftvPhoto Stolen AmsterdamFTV (Problem using this image? tell me)

Now GUCCI is on the slides again but they are doing some fun and interesting advertising, love this mini movie and maybe they will get back to making excellent shoes.

Portia xx

Gucci Presents: Bamboo Confidential

Paris by Chanel – Inside CHANEL Movie

Hi there Fashionistas,

Here we have another block in the Gabriel “Coco” Chanel story/myth/legend. She has been so painted, glossed and glammed that she could be a decoupage. The house lives on in splendour and Karl Lagerfeld is the reigning monarch. Still the house CHANEL is a major player and an international billion dollar money making factory.

I hope you enjoy their latest mini movie, a piece about the atelier, store and apartment at 31 Rue Cambon and Coco. Magic.

Portia xx

Chanel WallPaperMinePhoto Stolen WallPaperMine

Paris by Chanel – Inside CHANEL Movie

Perfumes That Never Offend My Coworkers

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Post by FeralJasmine

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I work with a fantastic bunch of ladies. We have all been together for several years now, and couldn’t be happier with the arrangement. We know each other’s thought patterns, can predict each other pretty well, and have no serious trouble making decisions by concensus.

So when does the serpent enter paradise? Usually it has to do with perfume. My good colleagues are (thank The Lord and/or Lady) very outspoken and not given to passive aggression, which means that when I wear a scent that one of them doesn’t like, I am going to hear about it. Sometimes this is pretty damn funny: one of them calls anything that she dislikes “patchouli,” which leads to hilarious remarks like “I don’t like that patchouli perfume you’re wearing today” when I’m drifting around in Chanel #5. Aldehydes are a total no-go. Gagging pantomimes greet anything too sweet.

Perfumes That Never Offend My Coworkers

So what does work? I have a stable of stuff that draws purely positive comment. To my surprise, two of them are patchouli scents (but don’t tell my colleague!) Vanillas are happily tolerated if they aren’t too sweet, confirming my suspicion that for many of us, vanilla is THE primal comfort scent. The players are:

Boyfriend Kate Walsh FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Kate Walsh Boyfriend: this lovely warm patchouli-plum-tobacco scent is miles above the usual celebrity perfume and therefore is discontinued, but is still readily available on eBay. I have stocked up and will not be bidding against you.

Unknown Pleasures Kerosene FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Kerosene Unknown Pleasures: Earl Grey tea followed by a soft slightly sweet bakery vanilla. What’s not to like? This one is a great value, and I have obtained a backup bottle.

Lira Xerjoff FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Xerjoff Lira: An exquisite soft vanilla that wafts in the most delicate and appealing way. Unfortunately, it is also $285 a bottle, which works out to quite a bit per waft. Still, I wear it sometimes because there is nothing quite like it. But Unknown Pleasures, after the somewhat brash lemony opening, ends up in much the same place for less than half the price, so no back-up bottles of Lira for me.

Pink Gardenia DSH Perfumes FragranticaPhoto Stolen DSH Perfumes

DSH Pink Gardenia: my one objection to Ms. Hurwitz’s vanillic gardenia is that it is too civilized and private. Which is why I can wear it to work to universal approval. Nobody is aware of it unless they happen to get very close, and then they like it. Now, if only she made a louder version to put on when I get home…

Coze Parfumerie Generale FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

PG Coze: I can’t get my mind around wearing this one to work. But I did once, by mistake, and people loved it. Even the Patchouli-Slaying Queen commented on the lovely spicy resins. So I wear it once in a while at work, and a lot on weekends.

Here are a couple of sample sites that you can go see to try these.
Surrender To Chance
Posh Peasant
My Perfume Samples

I should add that I have dry perfume-euthanizing skin and these might not be subtle enough on everyone. But unless your workplace forbids perfume, there is something that you can get away with. Solicit honest feedback from a few work-buddies, and pay careful attention to what they say. After all, it’s their airspace too!

FeralJasmine X

Acqua Di Giò by Giorgio Armani: Scent of Freedom Movie – Introducing Luca Dotto

Woo Hoo APJ,

Who better to advertise a fragrance for men than the Italian Silver Medalist swimmer. He is handsome, great body, successful and has a killer smile. This ad is so freaking beautiful I wanted it to go for 15 minutes.

Acqua Di Giò by Giorgio Armani 2014: Luca Dotto

Acqua-Di-Gio_Scent-of-Freedom ftapePhoto Stolen ftape (Problem using image, let me know)

Giorgio Armani has always known how to sell their product but this is taking it to a whole new level.

Enjoy,
Portia xx

Acqua di Giò: Scent of Freedom – Giorgio Armani

 Acqua Di Giò: Scent of Freedom – Introducing Luca Dotto

Scent With Love: CHANEL No.22

Hi there APJ,

My mate Rose M sent me a package a while ago. It got lost in a drawer during a clean up and since we have been organising the house for Open Houses a bunch of forgotten magic has turned up. What is in the package? Modern & Vintage CHANEL No.22 EdT and some Vintage CHANEL No.22 parfum. OH MY! You may remember I discovered CHANEL No.22 in Paris earlier this year with Michael. Rose M thought I should get some historical juice on my skin and be able to compare, I’ll do my best but this wonky old nose will probably just smell the same thing at different strengths…..

 CHANEL No.22 by Ernest Beaux for CHANEL 1922

Chanel No 22 Chanel FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica 

Fragrantica  gives these featured accords:
Top: Lily-of-the-valley, neroli, aldehydes
Heart: Oriental jasmine, rose, Comoro island ylang-ylang
Base: Haiti vetiver, Bourbon vanilla

OK, so the vintage EdT comes out sweeter and more aldehydic. Current EdT has a fresh, nutty and much cooler vibe than the vintage. Vintage smells animal and sensual while the modern has a metallic edge, a little reminiscent of No. 19. As the top notes blow off the two become more alike and though still different they coulod be the same fragrance family now. Vintage seems smoother and warmer, like the ultimate softness of room temperature ivory against your skin and still the current is cooler, more transparent like cool crystal.

CHANEL No.22 EdT Ivory Carving Cliff FlickrPhoto stolen Flickr

CHANEL No.22 EdT Crystal Bowl Mauricio Gouvea FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Suddenly, at about the 20-30 minute mark it’s like they both come into clear focus and smell nearly exactly the same, there are differences but only the difference that a wear on different days woulds NEVER tell apart. It’s like you are wearing the same fragrance but in different weather or after you’ve used a different body wash in the shower. Vintage lasts for hours longer in the heart section and when modern has almost completely disappeared I can still smell glorious aldehydic bouquet pumping its lavish tune from the vintage. Dry down is warm and subtly earthy but through CHANEL No. 22s life it never loses that aldehydic magic.

They are both incredible and I am going to grab some of the current EdT and Parfum. The die is cast.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and Perfume Posse
You can try or buy CHANEL No. 22 at any of the stand alone CHANEL stores or a very few department stores.
Surrender To Chance has CHANEL No. 22 samples starting at $4/ml and Extrait at $8/ml

Thank You Rose M. I have enjoyed this throw down immensely and you have ultimately made me a complete slave to CHANEL No.22 EdT.

Portia xx

 

 

 

 

Layering: Tocca Florence + With Love by Hilary Duff

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Post by Erica Golding

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Layering fragrances is something that I rarely do. I wholeheartedly appreciate that many people delight in the alchemy of mix and match, and personalize their aura by combining two or more scents. According to my personal style, I typically just enjoy a complete fragrance on its own as it was designed, rather than partake in creative experimentation.

I have a few exceptions to this preference, and my ultimate favorite fragrance combination is the insanely breathtaking duet that I am sharing with you today.

Years ago, in college, I was on my way out to party on a Saturday night. I went to my friends’ dorm to pick up my foxy lady crew, and met their neighbor for the first time. She was a vision of pure glamour – glossy blonde mane, perfectly bronzed smooth skin, and piercing clear eyes. She was decked out in a little black dress and heels. (I’m pretty sure I was in jeans and a hoodie, hippie scrub that I was.)

Her fragrance froze me where I stood. Already a perfume junkie, I had no shame in introducing myself by exclaiming: “What perfume are you wearing?!” nShe grinned, beckoned me to follow, and floated into her room. There, she pulled two gorgeous bottles out of a drawer, and offered to spray them on me (“Hell yes, please!”). She stressed that they simply had to be worn together, and that it was pure love potion. “Use with caution!”

Damn right.

Layering: Tocca Florence + With Love by Hilary Duff

Florence Tocca FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Grapefruit leaf, bergamot, pear, apple
Heart: Violet leaf, iris, gardenia, jasmine, tuberose
Base: Musk, white woods

With Love Hilary Duff FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives the following notes:
Top: Spices, mango(steen)
Heart: Cocobolo, mango blossom
Base: Amber, musk.

Tocca Florence and With Love by Hilary Duff are great fragrances on their own, each boasting a level of appeal that far exceeds their status as department-store perfumes. Tocca is an unabashedly intense white floral focusing on creamy tuberose, delightfully brightened by a hint of crisp apple and pear. With Love is a symphonious oriental scent featuring cocobolo (which reminds me of sandalwood), vanilla amber, and mango.

Layering Tropical Sunrise Bill McChesney FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Put them together, and it is hard to describe what happens next. Imagine a tropical sunrise, a volcano exploding, a star going supernova – that’s what happens to my soul when these fragrances marry on my skin. They can’t be separated into their original compositions once they join together. The aroma completely changes as each perfume loses itself in the other, fusing seamlessly and morphing into a singular scent experience. The overall impression is simply enchanting, featuring tender white flowers hovering over a musky amber base with tasteful, subtle accents of fruit and spice.

Florence and With LovePhoto Donated Erica

Please try this if you enjoy tuberose and oriental perfumes. On paper, you may be skeptical about how in the world they could ever work together as one, but I can assure you: It is pure love potion. Use with caution.

Beauty Habit has Tocca Florence 50ml/$68
FragranceX has With Love by Hilary Duff 30ml/$15

Warm wishes for your beautifully fragrant day,
Erica