Jezebel by Anka Kus Parfum

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Narth

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Hello friends,

Narth here with a Queen.

Jezebel by Anka Kus Parfum

Top: Pear, Chocolate.
Middle: Rose Damascena, Moroccan Jasmine, Vanilla, Tuber, Cashmere Musk.
Base: Osmanthus, West Australian Sandalwood, Amber, Madagascan Vanilla, Tonka Bean.

Jezebel. It’s fascinating how the name of a pagan queen of Israel from 3000 years ago has reflected our society’s changing views of women. For years Jezebel meant a bad girl, a wicked sexual female. This was despite the biblical stories being about religious hegemony and political machinations rather than sexual immorality. Feminism has reclaimed the name Jezebel as that of a strong woman not beholden to societal mores. Jezebel has been the name of rather a few perfumes and this Jezebel is particularly glorious! It’s a rich and beautiful scent befitting of all the imagery the name has conjured up down the ages.

Anka Kus Parfum’s Jezebel is a luxurious cherry chocolate rose. A perfect black forest cake without being sweet. The chocolate is very impressive in the top notes, if you’ve felt a bit meh about chocolate in perfume because it failed to deliver I think you’ll be very happy with this one. Anka Kus Parfum’s Jezebel has a liqueur quality, befitting her indulgent reputation. The rose in Jezebel reminds me of Lyric Woman though with none of the solemn qualities of the Amouage. This is more sensual than stately. I’m also rather fascinated by the way Anka Kus Parfum’s Jezebel manages to be both juicy and dry. Each time I wear it I find myself enjoying this interplay. I suspect Jezebel will be a compliment magnet as well as it’s so attractively delicious.

Anka Kus Parfum is an Australian niche brand started by Ali Erkekli (previously known as Al Manlé) that has some interesting offerings. I think Jezebel has been let down by the font used (yes I’m that person) which is a messy mix of gothic and graffiti that belies it’s quality as a perfume. Is it meant to be ironically hipster or more along BPAL lines witchy or..? I’m not really sure just as I’m not really sure what the black blotchy bird symbol is meant to be either. The other bottles also have kitschy fonts but it’s Jezebel’s messy one that bothers me the most. She deserves better!

Try it at the Anka Kus Parfum Etsy Store

What associations do you have with the name Jezebel?

Bye for now, Narth xx

L’Homme Ideal Cologne by Guerlain

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Narth

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Hello friends, it’s Narth here reminiscing about a recent perfume frenzy in perfumeland. I was walking past a small perfume stand in a shopping centre, the sort with everything ON SPECIAL and where at times some real gems show up. Stuck in the middle of all the Joops and Rober Cavallis was a Guerlain I had never noticed before and it was only 20.00! After a bit of phone research I bought it, ripped it open and sprayed myself all over. This was fantastic! I posted about it in perfumeland and seemingly simultaneously did many other people. And that’s when the frenzy began as information flew about as to where to find more bottles, could you still buy it on the website? Was it really that wonderful? Were we all lemmings? It was fabulously fun and I bought five, three for myself and two for gifts.

Guerlain L’Homme Ideal Cologne 2015

The Frenzy and The King

Top: Orange, Bergamot, Pink Pepper, Grapefruit
Middle: Almond, Neroli
Base: White Musk, Vetiver

This scent, now sadly discontinued is a multifaceted freshie which truly has earned the moniker THE KING because it’s such a wonderfully affordable treasure. It’s bright and creamy, not in stages but all the way through. The almond is impressive. It’s not a marzipan but rather the white smooth interior of the nut. That and the white musk are always there, providing a beautiful backdrop to the citrus. It’s a fantastic hot weather scent and on cooler days it surprises with its depth.

Perfume frenzies are a lot of fun.. and a lot of pain, depending on your wallet and how likely you are to have regrets over being caught up in them. During my BPAL days I was on that frenzy train monthly. Yes there’s an addictive element, a definite high with the ordering, the searching, the speculating about notes. Nowadays these bursts of excitement mostly pass me by. I’ll look at my phone and whatever amazing thing appeared is already gone. And while I’m okay about that because I am now supposedly a responsible consumer of perfume I very much enjoyed my Guerlain L’Homme IDEAL frenzy and if I find another one I’ll be buying it!

Tell me your perfume frenzy stories, triumphs or tragic misses!

Bye for now,
Narth xx

Eau Mer by Pekji

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Narth

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Hello friends, Narth here diving into a fragrance type I’ve not been a fan of in the past. Today I write humbled by this beautiful creation.

Pekji Eau Mer 2015

Ömer Ipekçi

Ambergris, Anise, Bergamot, Haiti Vetiver, Herbs, Jasmine, Lavender, Lime, Mastic, Musk

I’ll just come out and say it. I’ve never been completely sure what an Aquatic is. I’ve assumed it was code for “I’ll wear this on a super hot day because it is briefly refreshing and won’t stick around long enough to annoy me”. I’m sure I’m not alone in losing interest when a scent is labelled Aquatic. What I would like the word Aquatic to mean and what mainstream scents have produced under this label are quite different.

Kramer spoke for us all when he had that brainfart that the perfect scent ever would smell like the BEACH but nothing really smells like that. For one thing beaches smell different everywhere. I love the ones with a lot of ocean rot and seaweed, the salty, kelpy goodness. I love the smell of my skin after the ocean salt dries on it. The saltiest fragrance I ever found was Jo Malone Blue Agave and Cacoa but this is not a review about holy grail salty fragrances, it’s a review about an Aquatic

Pekji Eaumer is not about the beach. It is Nautical! No drinks with umbrellas in sight, you’re on the OCEAN. It’s bracing, it’s invigorating, it’s salty and it’s fine. It all works together beautifully. With a nice dose of lime to stave off scurvy in the middle notes it dries down to a peppery vetiver and bergamot with a warm ambergris funk. I love it.

The lime keeps Pekji Eaumer fresh when there’s so much under the surface that hints of murky depths. It has great sillage and staying power and unlike many aquatics the best part is not over in the first 10 minutes. It retains it’s character for hours. This is not one of those crisp scents you have to keep huffing for the top notes, they are always with you. As with the other Pekjis I’ve tried the ingredients are a beautiful quality. What an interesting treat Pekji Eaumer is!

Tell me about Aquatics! What ones work for you, which ones do you love?

Bye for now, Narth xx

Frankincense

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Narth

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Hello friends, Narth here enjoying the Holiday season. Like many of you I plan my holiday fragrances with great glee, though Nuit de Noel in 40c weather was definitely a mistake! This year I was thinking about the Magi gifts of gold, frankincense and myrrh. I have Comme de Garcon’s 888 for the gold, many frankincense choices and I’m sure I have a BPAL somewhere heavy on myrrh. Maybe I’ll try layering them! Today however I am on a frankincense kick. I have three very fine examples of what a treasure frankincense can be when it’s the dominant note in the fragrance.

Frankincense

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Delina by Parfums De Marly

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Narth

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Hello friends, it’s Narth here in a bit of a pink quandary! Since it was released in 2017 to glorious praise I’ve wanted to try Parfums De Marly Delina. Not because of the glorious praise, we know that can be a cyclic thing in perfume land, but because of the glorious PINK. The opaque bottle is the most beautiful colour, a confectionery pinkness that draws the eye and the hand. It’s the exact colour I aimed for and achieved when I squeezed a couple drops of red food dye into a tub of Betty Crocker frosting for my Betty Crocker frosting high tea sandwiches (fluffy white bread, cut off crusts, spatula on the frosting). These weren’t exactly a success but they looked very pretty and that’s how I feel about Parfums De Marly Delina

Parfums De Marly Delina 2017: A Tale of Many Pinks

Quentin Bisch

Top: Bergamot, Lychee, Rhubarb, Nutmeg,
Middle: Turkish Rose, Peony, Petalia, Vanilla and Musk
Base: Cashmeran, Haitian Vetiver, Cedar and Incense

It took me some time to track this scent down. The one store stocking it never had the tester, though they always had a completely different tester bottle in front of the Delina box. For months it would go like this;

Narth: Would you happen to have the Delina in a tester?
SA: Yes it is right here.
Narth: No that’s Cassili, the Delina is pink.
SA: Oh I don’t think so..

Google ensues

SA: Well I guess someone stole it.

I walk through this shop enroute regularly and this weird conversation kept happening and still no pink, no very very mouthwatering Parfums De Marly Delina. But then one day, and you’d have to be Australian to appreciate how this signifies the heavens opening and the trumpets trumpeting, the SA said “oh I think we have a sample” and pressed one into my hand. YES! I couldn’t wait to get home and have it be Pinkness time!

Well just like my pretty sandwiches it didn’t deliver, I think it may even be as yucky as I secretly knew my sandwiches were.

We have rhubarb, we have custard apple, we have custard.. yes for maybe 5 seconds this is quite enchanting. And then the sharpness comes out. I’d like to say tartness but tartness is tasty and this is more a synthetic sharpness pretending to be tartness. And it’s nuclear. Couldn’t scrub it off in the shower. I was quite upset! In the end it’s a screechy mess.

I am THE person marketing and advertisements and stories and bottles are made for, I lie back before the marketing gods and wait to be influenced. That pink lettering on the Fracas bottle? That’s what Fracas smells like to me forever. Parfums de Marley Delina still smells pink, but it’s a bad pink. It’s a harsh pink. It’s the pink of a kitchen cleanser from the 60’s.

I am truly happy for those of you who love this, you have a beautiful bottle and I am sure Parfums De Marly Delina is a creamy goddess on you!

I want to hear your stories when all your untested fantasies didn’t deliver! What was your biggest disappointment?

Bye for now, Narth xx

Elephant by Zoologist

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Narth

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Hello Friends, it’s Narth here reminiscing about one of my longest holy grails of scent. Not a particular bottle, but an idea in my head. I’m sure we’ve all had them, seeking a rose with that cold water dewy note, the patchouli that was the loamiest of loamy earth, actual salt (still never found that one). When an idea of a scent is stuck firmly in your head it can seem that nothing ever quite fulfills that desire. Some years ago mine was GREEN COCONUT. I loved coconut so much but I absolutely did not want to smell like a baked good. Smelling like a baked good sells, as can be seen by all the etsy scents, candles and perfume oils promising you will be wrapped in the warm aromas of a glazed brioche almond muffin with berries. People like this stuff and a lot of products do a very good job of replicating the decadent deliciousness of baked sweet treats. Sadly though I don’t have much of a sweet tooth either on my plate or my skin. My hunt for green coconut was constantly thwarted by vanilla.

My green coconut search did have a few hits. Estee Lauder Bronze Goddess was kind of okay, but it was more reminiscent of suntan lotion than that sharp, husky greenness of freshly opened coconut. The Body Shop had an extremely excellent coconut body cream which I went through multiple bottles of but despite their products having excellent sillage I am still a perfume person and I wanted that scent in a bottle. Their edt’s were flat, sour and ephemeral in comparison. For years I thought about what exactly my green coconut should smell like. What I really wanted was a coconut version of L’Artisan’s Premier Figuier. That slightly bitter, lactic, vegetal fig without a sugar stick in sight only not fig, coconut!

Zoologist Elephant 2017

Chris Bartlett

Top: Tea Leaves, Darjeeling Tea, Magnolia
Middle: Cocoa, Coconut Milk, Incense, Jasmine, Woods
Base: Amber, Musk, Patchouli, Sandalwood

In Zoologist Elephant I have now found what I believe is the closest I will get. I’d like the coconut to be more dominant but the coconut that is in there is gloriously, fragrantly, green!

Zoologist Elephant is a raw, linear scent that anyone seeking more more more green will appreciate. There’s the intense vegetation, the crushed coconut mixed underfoot with earth and broken leaves. It’s lactic. It’s cold. It’s not screechy or in your face. I wish I got the humidity some people mention, I wish I was truly in the jungle but for me this is a cooler clime sedate fragrance. If you’ve enjoyed green scents but find the vintage ones like Estee Lauder’s Aliage too intense or grating this may well be your answer. Zoologist fragrances often take me back to older era scents but they’ve been retooled and the more abrasive elements are gone, replaced by something quirky. I’ve been wearing Elephant for several days and I’m looking forward to trying it in the heat. But for now I’m happy that a decade old desire has unexpectedly been satisfied.

Have you had a note you’ve been searching for, ever hopeful you’ll find exactly what you dream of?

Bye for now, Narth xx