Rendezvous by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz for DSH Perfumes 2016

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Post by Portia

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Hi there Frag-O-Philes,

Recently I ordered a new bottle of Giverny In Bloom from DSH Perfumes, with its glorious green self came a sample of her newest fragrance. Realeased in January 2016 and already making waves let’s have a look at Rendezvous. We will be going through the initial experience together today but I will come back in a few days to give some updates if my wearings have shown different or interesting nuance.

Rendezvous by DSH Perfumes 2016

Rendezvous by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

rendezvous dsh-perfumesFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Aldehydes, white pepper
Heart: jasmine, orange blossom, gardenia
Base: Oakmoss, castoreum, hyrax, ambergris, labdanum, ambrette (musk mallow), musk, civet

GROWWWWL! Sweet, feral, fecal, dirty, sexy, bakery, alleyway, sunshine on sand, urinous, warm, comfortable, furry, fuzzy, fiery, dry, sizzling, smoky. OMG! All these words running through my head. Rendezvous is extreme. A whiff of coffee, black, intense and Turkish, motor oil gritty, earthy, creation, burnt sticky date pudding, plastics. I am engulfed in a fabulous monster. Part of me is asking “Is this just a circus trick?” other parts are screaming joyfully because this is exactly why indie perfumers are so important, recoiling, mesmerised, disbelieving and floating through someone else’s vision for scent.

rendezvous-dsh-perfumes Kirsty Hall Compost sign FlickrFlickr

At about the ten to 15 minute mark the enormity has flagged to merely outrageous. The flowers have arrived but they are growing in the compost heap, a healthy vegetative one with cow, horse and chook poo, well turned and aerated heap that is all the wonderful fragrances of renewal through disintegration. The sweet scent of an Indian street urinal from half a block away, mixed with the dusty road, the mass of humanity and beasts all going about their daily grind: living, loving, praying, feasting and festering.

Past the heart and I’m left, for hours, with a burning, smoky something that is also sweet like a cake batter, lightly salted and gorgeously creamy. It was hard to force myself to write really because I wanted to lose myself in the magnificent folds of Rendezvous. Bravo Dawn for bringing us this freakish, poopy masterpiece. I am enjoying it immensely.

rendezvous-dsh-perfumes Bonfire PixabayPixabay

From DSH Perfumes site: A super sexy, “retro nouveau” animalic perfume with the kick of aldehydes and pepper in the top, narcotic, indolic florals in the heart, and a super rich, slightly salty, animalic drydown.  Let’s just say that there’s more going on here than a meeting of the minds.

Further reading: Scented Hound and Perfume Polytechnic
DSH Perfumes has a great range of Rendezvous products starting at $6

What is your favourite Independent Perfume House? Have you tried Dawn’s work?
Portia xx

 

Misia by Olivier Polge for CHANEL 2015

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Post by Portia

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Hello Happy Huffers,

Scott and I were in town the other day and hit the CHANEL counter. Our mate Esther was in the house and with her was one of the CHANEL Australia trainers (Scott thinks it’s Emma but I am less sure) who was a wealth of information about CHANEL Beauty. It was a wonderful and enlightening hour we spent chatting and it was really fun. We even learned that you can buy a 900ml CHANEL No 5 parfum in a Baccarat bottle: OMG! but we were strong and resisted the temptation.

Misia by Olivier Polge for CHANEL 2015

Chanel Misia Chanel FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Powdery notes, violet, iris, orris root, Turkish rose, Grasse rose, Laos benzoin, tonka bean

We grabbed a sample of Misia and I’ve brought it home to re-run its beauty. The question is though, who or what is Misia (Pronounced Mischa and the Russian shortening of Maria)?

Misia Sert is the muse for this CHANEL creation. One of Coco’s friends: artistic, wealthy, influential and connected. Of course Gabriel “Coco” Chanel courted her. Missy was almost the perfect fit for the CHANEL dream. According to Wikipedia: It was recognized that “you had to be gifted before Misia wanted to know you.” …Sert was attracted to Chanel by “her genius, lethal wit, sarcasm and maniacal destructiveness, which intrigued and appalled everyone.” Both women, convent bred, maintained a friendship of shared interests, confidences and drug use.

Chanel Misia Chanel Misia Henri de Toulouse-Lautec WikiCommonsWikiCommons

 

It’s interesting that Scott is an anti iris perfumista, not so much anti but it tends to take on this OTT bread/yeast/doughy nature when it hits his skin. Misia doesn’t though and we were very surprised how gorgeously it smells of cosmetics on him. Violets, roses, iris, powder, slightly dusty and a little bit ripe human. Misia is gorgeous. Wearing it is to feel full of the joys of theatrical life.

Sweet, waxy, floral gouts of fragrance burst out of my top and intoxicate me. Sillage is excellent, people tend to stop and sniff the air after Misia walks by, and projection is moderate, unless you really go crazy Misia is demure.

I’m not sure why I don’t own a BIG bottle of it yet. Soon…..

Further reading: Now Smell This and Perfume Posse
CHANEL Les Exclusives are available at large Department Stores and CHANEL stand alone beauty stores
Unfortunately CHANEL has stopped all sample resellers from sharing their fragrances.

Which is your favourite CHANEL Exclusive? Are you excited for the new era in CHANEL fragrance?
What do YOU think of Misia?
Portia xx

La Colle Noire GIVEAWAY WINNERS

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Post by Portia

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WOO HOO APJ!
Great response for todays giveaway. It’s exciting when a new DIOR gets released.

Let’s see who won,
Portia xx

La Colle Noire GIVEAWAY WINNERS

La Colle Noire DIOR ParfumoParfumo

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
May rose absolute, Ceylonese sandalwood, White musk, Spices, Amber

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 2 winners who will receive:
1 x sample La Colle Noire (decanted from my sample)
1 x 8ml DIOR Privee manufacturers sample
(Cologne Royal or New Look 1947 – NO you don’t get to choose)
P&H Worldwide

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Sunday 22nd May 2016 10pm Australian EST
Winners were chosen by random.org

WINNERS markmontanoblogsmarkmontanoblogs

Edward

Ellen M.

CONGRATULATIONS! The winners will have till Thursday 26th May 2016 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

L’Ile au Thé by Camille Goutal and Isabelle Doyen for Annick Goutal 2015

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Post by Portia

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Hello Fragrant Lovers,

This tea scent is based on Jeju Island, the South Korean honeymoon island. Where newlywed South Korean couples have their 3 day honeymoon and wear completely matching honeymoon outfits. It’s so cute, they dress EXACTLY the same, except for some minor gender differentiation. The island itself is quite large and it has loads of fun stuff to do including gardens, parks, caves and caverns, fishing, there is even a mountain that you must climb (the crew did but I stayed home and read my book).

Korea 2014 Jeju Love Seat Jin:Portia

Above you can see us in one of the fields grown expressly for Jeju honeymooners to have their photos taken in smoochy, loving positions. They have various love seats and love furniture, very twee and old fashioned but surprisingly fun. It was really lovely that we got to do it and as stupid as it seems I felt it was one of those moments of pure happiness that I will often look back at and smile. In fact, the moment I read that L’Ile au Thé was about Jeju my mind went instantly to the tranquil, sunlit moment in a sea of flowers.

L’Ile au Thé by Annick Goutal 2015

L’Ile au Thé by Camille Goutal and Isabelle Doyen

L’Ile au Thé Annick Goutal FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Mandarin pulp, Citruses
Heart: Osmanthus, apricot, tea, mandarin blossom
Base: Green tea absolut, white musk

Citrus, in a burst so ripe and juicy, lightly sugared and the dry tea is already giving it nuance and body. A wonderful, fun, uplifting open that is so pretty it just screams spring and renewal. After about 5 minutes the pith comes through, a feeling more than a scent, it’s soft and sueded and still a lovely fresh citrus abounds.

A cologne-ish fragrance without the usual herbaceousness. In L’Ile au Thé it’s all about citrus and tea with the slightest hint at salt air. Simple. pretty, pleasurable and extremely wearable. during the heart I get a lovely piquant lime zest smell that is both radiant and fizzy, such a great way to wake up the senses in Sydney’s current Indian Summer (24C today and glorious). It’s put a real spring in my step.

All of these things L’Ile au Thé is, yet sometimes I wear a fragrance for a few days and wonder if the world really needs another citrus cologne, no matter how lovely. Would I put down hard earned cash for it? Maybe, probably not, my collection has ample in this style. If I had none or one cologne, if I was thinking of buying for a friend that likes citrus, tea or white musks then definitely. It’s not a very expensive fragrance in the scheme of current frag prices, though $149 is a lot of money, and it’s 100ml. So I could comfortably spritz lavishly. One thing in L’Ile au Thé’s favour is that it lasts longer than most Annick Goutal’s and most colognes. It also has a dazzling citrussy sillage that I find really appealing.

L'Ile au Thé Annick Goutal passport picAnnick Goutal

From Annick Goutal site: “Camille Goutal and Isabelle Doyen invite us on a trip to Korea, on the paradise island of Jeju, known for its charm, the beauty of its landscapes and ranked as one of the wonders of nature…..
L’Ile au Thé is an infusion of well-being, an invigorating and soothing perfume to be shared.”

Further reading: Perfume Posse and Candy Perfume Boy
LuckyScent has $149/100ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4.50/ml

Have you been to Jeju Island or any part of South Korea?
Portia xx

 

Current Rotation Fragrances May 2016

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Post by Portia

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Hello Perfume Junkies,

Do you have an area where you put your current high rotation fragrances? Mine is my desk. At any given time there may be 20 odd fragrance bottles scattered about it, a dozen or so samples and general perfume paraphernalia. It can get quite crowded so every couple of weeks I do a stocktake of what’s there and what will stay.

This fortnight I’ve been pretty addicted to a couple of frags and they have seen a LOT of wear, the others are mostly seeing a few spritzes but a bunch will be going back in the cupboard. Some things go back in the cupboard after every use: Guerlain’s Shalimar and Mitsouko, CHANEL No 5 and YSL Opium. I have a few iterations of each and rarely know which one I’m going to feel like so it’s easier to have them all together in their cupboard space. Also, I will happily go looking for them particularly if the mood strikes so it’s good to have them accessible.

Current Rotation Fragrances May 2016

Current Rotation Fragrances May 2016 #1

So here’s the whole crew. A couple of them I also thought about selling so they have been on the desk and were saved from the chopper by my wearing and loving them again.

Current Rotation Fragrances May 2016 #2

From left there is Gucci Pour Homme 1, Vitriol d’billet by Serge Lutens, Guerlain Mitsouko EdC (arrived this week and is fabulous, really fresh smelling), Eau de DIOR, Dubai Next To Me by Ramon Monegal, Mitzah DIOR (yes, I have bottles but I saw this decant going in someone’s sale and grabbed it), Paw Paw ointment (I’m trying a new brand), Fendi donna (25ml & 50ml I just bought the 50ml and have been assessing it against one of my other bottles. It’s real), Youth Dew vintage

Current Rotation Fragrances May 2016 #4

From left Hermès Cuir d’Ange, Calvin Klein Contradiction Woman (Can’t stop spritzing this metallic, cold, wet, tart, aloof rose. Something about it drives me wild), Carillon pour un and by Tauer perfumes, Tubéreuse 3 by Histories de Parfum

Current Rotation Fragrances May 2016 #3

From left we start with the newest DSH Perfumes, Rendezvous, that I’m yet to try, the Cult Of Scent sampler, Jasmin Rouge by Tom Ford, Shea Butter Fabulous Oil by L’Occitane, Be Beautiful by Jessica Mauboy (suddenly we are getting a load of melon and lily of the valley fragrances, this is a good $20 dupe for the new Hermès Muguet Porcelaine), Guess by Marciano Woman (when I haven’t been wafting a cloud of Contradiction this fortnight it’s been Guess. This crunchy vanilla amber citrus bomb is disgustingly good), Capricci by Nina Ricci

What is staying till the next cleanup?

Eau de DIOR
Mitzah by DIOR
Cuir d’Ange by Hermès
Contradiction by Calvin Klein
Cult Of Scent Sampler,
Guess by Marciano

The rest are back in their boxes and in the cupboard till I call them out again.

What’s in your high rotation and where do you put them?
Portia xx

La Colle Noire by François Demachy for DIOR 2016

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Post by Portia

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Hello Fragrant Fumies,

François Demachy has created a new fragrance for the DIOR La Collection Privée line. Cue interest, excitement and some small rejoicing in the perfumista community. Named for Christian Dior’s favourite holiday home in later life: Château de La Colle Noire. So I google translate looked it up and colle can mean mean glue, adhesive or problem. I think something does not add up and if there are any French speakers in the house could they please tell me what it means.

Roses have been back and wearable again in frag circles and the general public since Stella McCartney’s 2003 eponymous radiant rose Stella. Since then we have been bombarded with all the roses that ever and never were. From the darkest, dankest to the shrillingly squeaky clean blow torch editions and yes, I have fallen for a few. Completely and utterly fallen for such luminaries as Mohur by Neela Vermeire, Ballets Rouges by Olympic Orchids, Contradiction by Calvin Klein, Rosa sur Reuse by SOIVOHLE, Midnight Oud by JHaG and in DIOR’s own privet lineup Mitzah and Oud Ispahan (there are more but these without looking).

La Colle Noire by DIOR 2016

La Colle Noire by François Demachy

La Colle Noire DIOR ParfumoParfumo

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
May rose absolute, Ceylonese sandalwood, White musk, Spices, Amber

La Colle Noire opens with a sheer, wet, sharp rose, lightly metallic and already clean musky. My nose gets that soft fluffy feeling of pith and I am surprised theres no citrus, pepper, ivy or blackcurrant mentioned because I get a sharp fruity note in my nose and a dry tickle in my throat that I associate with those four notes. The opening fireworks are over in a couple of minutes and I loose 80% of the heft.

A sweet rose is left behind, sheer, wispy and pretty, bordering on functional or ambient but rising above and floating around me like a rosy zephyr, a dream of roses or of being in the middle of a rose garden in the coolest pale light of morning with only the merest breeze moving the scent to you. Here is a rose like the 2nd run of rose water, lightly warmed and set amongst a harmonious backdrop to murmer quietly around you for hours and hours. Considering how low key La Colle Noire is its longevity is astounding and sillage is very nice too.

La Colle Noire Christian Dior FragranticaFragrantica

La Colle Noire is so perfectly measured and careful that it could easily belong to the CHANEL Exclusives line. It’s beautiful, fragile and a watercolour wash of fragrance. Elegant, under the radar fragrance for someone who wants to smell like money without having to be so gauche as to make a fragrant statement. Also a perfect background scent for someone who knows they have to smell nice but who don’t really like perfume. An amorphous whisper.

Christian Dior Privee line is available in stand alone DIOR stores and large airports + department stores
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $3.25/ml

 

giveaway TheTruthAboutMummyTheTruthAboutMummy

La Colle Noire GIVEAWAY

La Colle Noire Christian Dior giveaway 2

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 2 winners who will receive:
1 x sample La Colle Noire (decanted from my sample)
1 x 8ml DIOR Privee manufacturers sample
(Cologne Royal or New Look 1947 – NO you don’t get to choose)
P&H Worldwide

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged. Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me (portia underscore turbo @ yahoo dot com dot au) so I know.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please tell us a rose fragrance you love, or even hate and need to bitch about.

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 22nd May 2016 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winner will be chosen by random.org
The winner will have till Thursday 26th May 2016 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

La Colle Noire Christian Dior giveaway 1

Sample GIVEAWAY May 2016 WINNERS

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Post by Portia

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Heya APJ Frag Family,

Hotly contested competition today. Thanks for getting involved.
Let’s see who our winner is,
Portia xx

Sample GIVEAWAY May 2016 WINNERS

giveaway hemodernhomePhoto Stolen hemodernhome

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

The winner will receive one each of these samples:

Eric Butterbaugh Apollo Hyacinth
Tauer Sotto La Luna Tubereuse
Romance by Ralph Lauren
ELdO Remarkable People
Lutens Laine de Verre
YSL Splendid Bouquet
DIOR Ambre Nuit
Stella McCartney Stella In Two Peony
Osmonde Jayne Vanille d’Iris
Amouage Opus IX
Bulgari Jasmine Noir
Diptyque Eau Moheli
No 1 solid perfume
Mark Buxton Wood & Absinth
Tom Ford Noir

P&H Anywhere in the world

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Sunday 15th May 2016 10pm Australian EST
Winner was chosen by random.org

winner nodepositforumnodepositforum

Caroline

CONGRATULATIONS!! The winner will have till Wednesday 18th May 2016 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Cuir Cannage by Francois Demachy for Christian Dior 2014

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Post by Portia

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Hiya APJ,

Leather! One of my favourite perfume notes. It took me a while to warm to todays fragrance but now I can’t imagine my collection without it. To be honest, when I first smelled Cuit Cannage I think I missed the point.

Cuir Cannage by Christian Dior 2014

Cuir Cannage by Francois Demachy

Cuir Cannage Christian Dior FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Orange blossom, ylang-ylang
Heart: Rose, jasmine, iris
Base: Birch, juniper, leather

A sweet, supple leather that has been fragranced in the manufacturers to hide the tannery smells. Comfortable, chic and utterly wearable in warm or cool weather I reach for Cuir Cannage when I want leather but a more floral version. DIOR has provided a perfect bridge between the sweetness of Bottega Veneta original and the dryness of Hermès Cuir d’Ange.

cuir-cannage-dior ingrid-bergman PixabayPixabay

I love the way that initially the leather and orange blossom combine to create a modern take on vintage. A cleaner, less animalic version of some of the old time scents. Only very slightly breathy yet very movie star glam. Finally a lovely creamy, worn leather with hints of the warm body of the wearer. A nod to make up, fur, fine living and unattainable beauty perfection. A hint of the sweet musty breaking down of leather bound books in old libraries.

If you are looking for an outrageous, over the top leather experience like Tauer’s Lonestar Memories then you will be bitterly disappointed. DIOR gives us a smooth and seamless leather interpretation that is so obviously geared towards the upper end of the fragrance market, a spritz and go fragrance that still manages to be interesting and beautiful.

cuir-cannage-dior books PixabayPixabay

Further reading: Persolaise and Colognoisseur
DIOR stores and some larger department stores carry the DIOR La Collection Privée range
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $3/ml
What is your favourite leather? Does it ever take you a while to come around to a fragrance?
Portia xx

Tawaf by La Via del Profumo 2012

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Post by Portia

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Hello Independent Perfumery Lovers,

Yes, the Indie stuff is the most boundary pushing, interesting and challenging fragrance section for me. I find the perfumes exciting, edgy, sometimes raw and often a little rough. It’s edge of your nose sniffing. Not all the Indies get it right for me but that’s the point, they are making their dream for people who share it. That also doesn’t mean they get an automatic Get Out Of Jail Free Card from me though. I still need to enjoy the ride, be swept up in the fragrant fantasy and moved on some level. La Via del Profumo is a brand that often delivers in the most outrageous and spectacular ways. Today let’s look at a bottle I bought after falling madly in love with and using up a sample size.

Tawaf by La Via del Profumo 2012

Tawaf La Via Del ProfumoLa Via Del Profumo

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Jasmine sambac, rose, opoponax, narcissus, myrrh

Jasmine and narcissus together open Tawaf, It’s a green, viscous, aggressive opening that has little to do with sitting in a field or by a fence with either of them growing nearby but the powerful, astringent, shrill uncomfortableness that you get from the purest absolute extract (is that even a thing? You get it though, right?). 15-20 minutes of over the top fragrance that pretty much sends me into raptures of sniffing.

After the initial blast the richness and forcefulness drops back to a dull roar. Still fully fragrant yet there seems to be more oxygen in the room. Suddenly Tawaf becomes friendly, archetypically feminine and very sexy. Still radiant and effusive, excellent wafting in sillage and with good projection: I get about an hour of this warmer heart before the whole fragrance slides slowly into a light resinous hum around me. Very nice, quieter, less remarkable but still alluring. It sits closer and closer to my skin before finally giving up the ghost more than 4 hours on.

Tawaf La Via Del Profumo Ka’abah Turki Al-Fassam FlickrFlickr

From La Via Del Profumo siteTawaf is the name of the ritual consisting in circumambulations around the Ka’abah, the cube shaped building in Mecca, adorned with black silk. The Ka’abah is the geographic center of the Arabian soul, of it’s spirituality, culture and civilisation. The Tawaf fragrance is the aromatic “melody” of the scents that surround those performing the Tawaf.

Further reading: Non Blonde and Perfume Shrine
La Via Del Profumo has a range of sizes from €18

What is your jasmine scent?
Portia xxx

Ellis Faas Cosmetics GIVEAWAY WINNERS

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Post by Portia

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Hey APJ

BIG excitement for the lipstick giveaway. Thanks to Ellis Faas and Val the Cookie Queen for their outstanding generosity.

Lets see who won,
Portia xx

Ellis Faas Cosmetics GIVEAWAY WINNERS

ellis-fats-cosmetics-red-lipstick-review #4

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 10 winners who will receive:
2 x samples of the Ellis Red Milky Lips 
P&H Worldwide

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Thursday 12th May 2016 10pm Australian EST
Winner were chosen by random.org

Winners Are Bodie Strain Sydney Opera House Fireworks Flickr

Victoria Routhier
Sue Mills
Bernadette Winfield-Gray
Latai
Caroline
M.
Izzie A.
ArdentE.
Ceil
Neva

The winners will have till Monday 16th May 2016 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.