Cookie Queen & Blondeswunder in London 2017

May 23, 2017 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 25 Comments

Blondeswunder
Val the Cookie queen
.

Hey APJ Family, Happy Tuesday!

As soon as Mummy and I landed in Brexit we met up with the lovely and good friend Tara. She whisked us straight to Brick Lane
for some Indian food. I had aubergine drenched in some kind of spices sauce. It was sooooo good that I asked how they prepared
the aubergine. Turns out they freaking deep fried it twice. THAT´S WHY! Hahahaha.

Of course we were sniffing and sharing our thoughts over dinner because Indian cuisine isn´t fragrant enough alone. 🙂

Cookie Queen & Blondeswunder in London 2017

The next day, after two cups of English tea and countless visits to various loos along the way, we finally made it to the Frederic Malle store. I was very pleased to see a handsome, well put together young male SA, Pawel. Sadly for me he has an Italian boyfriend. Should have known! We got to smell and spritz perfume all over our bodies. I couldn´t chose so just went with Carnal Flower, Dries Van Noten, Eau de Magnolia, and Malle`s newest, Superstitious.

Of course when I had no more skin space I discovered Lipstick Rose. OH MY GOOOSH. So good. So soft. So me. Pawel was nice enough to give me a 3.5ml sample bottle to try it properly. Tara, Mummy and I were ready to kill with our sillage as we left for our pre-booked tour of Highgate Cemetery. We ended the day in Camden Market eating street food and chips.

The Thursday saw us meeting a close family friend of ours, Kirk, The Softboy Scentmaster. (My mum pulled him down the rabbit hole a couple of years ago.) Somehow our plans got changed and Mother dragged us back into the Malle store. I grabbed four spritzes of Dries Van Noten and covered my hair in the Carnal Flower hair mist. (Which I need in my life!) We then proceeded to the Gielgud Theatre just off Piccadilly, to see The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Nightime. It was absolutely brilliant. (We kept smelling each others necks and arms, and getting looks from the people around us. I mean, haven´t they ever seen people smelling each other every two seconds in public?)

Early evening we got to meet up with The Candy Perfume Boy and his lovely husband, on the bank of the Thames outside the Tate Modern.

Even though I am 22 and my Mother occasionally drives me nuts (mostly because I seem to be turning into her) we had the best time in London. And I was so happy to see Tara again, she is one of the strongest women I know, and I so look up to her and what she has achieved. How great it is to find such friends and peace and joy in perfume.

What are your FM favourites? DO you like perfume to be private or do you like letting people know?

Hugs
Blondeswunder

PS. Mother here – What can I add? I bought 10mls each of Dries Van Noten and Une Rose. I came home with big decants
of La Pausa 28, OJ Champaca, and Goutal´s Songes EdT and a Papillon´s Dryad sample. A non-perfumista friend went crazy for Outrageous! I missed Vanessa from Bonkers being able to join us, but shit happens. I feel blessed to have a daughter that actually wants to go away with me for a few days, she lights up my life with her humour and sunny character. CQ xxx

(Ed: Thanks for the photos Val and Hannah. Love them all)

Scent Diary 15.5 – 21.5.2017

May 21, 2017 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 32 Comments

Portia

Hey there Fragrant Family,

This week has gone by in a blur. Where did it bloody well go? Wasn’t I just posting the scent Diary last week a minute ago?

Having said that the week has been really good mainly, loads of great fragrances, friends and food. Can’t complain about that.

Scent Diary 15.5 – 21.5.2017

Monday 15:

Lazy morning answering Australian Perfume Junkies comments. We hit the 150 comments mark for the Saturday question this week so one lucky commenter will be getting a $20 Surrender To Chance GIFT CERTIFICATE! I’m really happy about that but my typing finger is a bloodied stump. Yes, I do all this with one finger every week. Pathetic, I know.

We had a few things on the agenda for today but only a few got done. First Jin & I went and had pizza & pasta at Gioia in Leichhardt on our way to the Redfern apartment where my BFF Kath lives to fix the lights under the kitchen cupboards onto the benchtops. I love that kitchen.

While we were there we left her belated happy Mother’s Day present. I think she loved it. Who doesn’t need new flaps?

Had a few deliveries. Of course they all come at once when I ordered them over a month. Decanting supplies from ProudStyle, LuckyScent order, bought a used Frederic Malle Musc Ravager from FaceBook and lastly a nearly full vintage DIOR Diorella EdT that has gone a bit stale from the CFCs/propellant. Still, it’s not ruined but it is not pristine either. It also leaked a bit in transit and its silver at the sprayer is going nasty.

Tuesday 16:

It’s only 1.40am, and I’m finished my Trivia Q&A. Woo Hoo! I did get some prep work done the other day so all my games and jackpot were already written. The daily Q&A was also ready to be done so having done a couple of hours work before i am much more ready.

OK spritzing Carner Barcelona RIMA XI, cleaning my teeth and going to bed. Night.

This morning was sunny and warm so I went for Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur. It arrived in the mail and I REALLY wanted to give it an outing. So warm and cuddly, a real furry fragrance. It was delicious while walking the dogs in the sunlit morning.

Went and saw Kath’s Mum at the rehab centre. we finally got her to sit outside in the warm air today to have lunch. She looks 100% improved.

Tonight I was having a hard time deciding what fragrance to wear for work and the candy stripes of my Cacharel Scarlett travel size caught my eye. It was a perfect choice and got some compliments. Happy frag day.

For SOTBed I wore Serge Lutens Arabie. Sweet spicy chutney and dusty desert in a bottle. Perfect for floating away upon.

Wednesday 17:

Jin cooked Korean pancakes this morning. they are pancake batter filled with nuts and melted brown sugar. You have no idea. Sorry I have no photo but they were delicious.

Jin and I went to our local IDAHoT 2017 event. International Day Against Homophobia and Transphobia. There were a group of our mates up at Parramatta to support the cause, the Police Band played with a sensational singer, there were speeches and the raising of the Rainbow flag outside our historic Parramatta Town Hall. The sun was shining and it was a fun way to spend lunchtime.

Jin wore Serge Lutens Muscs Kublai Khan and I was wearing Annick Goutal Grand Amour. As you can see my bottle is nearly empty, has changed colour and looks like it’s on its last legs. Nope, smells as good as the day I bought it. MMMMMMM

When I got home we watched the last two episodes of Sense8. Absolutely heart stopping drama, loved every second.

Tonight in honour of Greg Young’s extra special Guest Post I’m spritzing the cool, fresh elegance of CHANEL Pour Monsieur, bought from Robert Herrmann in his sale. MMMMMMMM

Thursday 18:

Wore Guerlain Samsara extrait today. Not sure exactly how old it is but it smells so much like my Mum that I’m feeling disoriented. Total mind fuck for a while.

Jin and I did some garage reorganising. He put a cupboard on the wall that I have wanted up for nearly two years, we moved some furniture from the house down there too. This place needs to be a little more streamlined to be fully zen.

Tonight I went crazy with the Agent Provocateur EdP. I enjoyed every inhale and it has lasted for hours and hours.

Fragrantica

After work my car got a flat tyre. Had to call the Roadside Assist and I was still in full drag. He was so unconcerned and absolutely sweet. He fixed it all, chattered a bit and we went on our merry ways. Thank you NRMA. It was a super nice experience, and he took less than 20 minutes to get to me and get it fixed.

Tonight I’ve spritzed Parfums DelRae Coup de Foudre. It goes beautifully over the Agent Provocateur EdP. Ready for bed. Night.

Friday 19:

WHAT A DAY! Got up and walked the dogs quickly where the Cockatoos are playing headstone angels.

Then caught a bus & train headed into Sydney city to meet with some perfume geeks.

Ingrid, Gino and Tim were my adventure accomplices and we had a wonderful time. Ingrid is down in Sydney from the Gold coast for her birthday so we celebrated in high style. Starting with coffees in the David Jones Food Hall and a quick sniff of the niche fragrances on display in store.

Then we moved on to Harold’s in City Westfield. We met Gino & Tim there and had a wonderful time looking at the high fashion, niche fragrance and accessories. I caved and bought Series 3 Incense: Ouarzazate Comme des Garcons, which I have had small decants of but was out. Roman and Andy were our SAs today but gorgeous Andy got the purchase. Gagging for the fun Balenziaga bags, REALLY want one.

It was definitely time for lunch and a lazy Prosecco at David Jones Food Hall. We ate at the cheese and antipasto desk. It was wonderful fun eating, sniffing and chatting.

Then we hit Mecca in Myer and were served by Ken, the sexy bearded French hottie. Sadly I already owned everything in the store I want. It was super fun chatting fragrance with them though.

Also we got to see my next boyfriend Louis at the Libertine stand in Myer. I bloody wish he had something i wanted to buy. As we were leaving I did tell him I am coming back soon to get his number and go eat. He is sweet and charming.

At Men’s Biz Ingrid bought Tauer Lonestar Memories. A purchase she had long been pondering, great choice for her. The guys there are so friendly and knowledgable. It’s always a pleasure but sadly they don’t stock my shave soap anymore. BUM.

Coming home on the train & bus I was overwhelmed by how much fragrance I had on. Like I was fumigating the bus. Because we’d tried so much on I think I was bathed in 10+ niche fragrances. Poor people on the bus. It was too much even for me.

Saturday 20:

This morning dawned cool and wet. Jin got home from work at 5.30am. Unusually I woke up and was 100% ready for the day when he got into bed so I jumped out of bed and came to my computer to get some blogging done. Fed & walked the dogs through the wonderful Autumn wispy drizzle. It was heavenly, the dogs loved it too. Had a little cuddle with my baby boy Paris and spritzed some M.O.U.S.S.E. by Oliver & Co. from their Discovery Set that’s left me softly sizzling with a bright, metallic clove. Beautiful.

Off to Pedi with my BFF Kath, hopefully we’ll have lunch too.
Yes we did. Popcorn Chicken and Dumplings for lunch. Sorry I didn’t take a pic but we were chattering so much that I completely forgot.

Spent the evening at home with the dogs watching TV and getting stuff organised for next week. Very quiet and peaceful. Perfect.

Sunday 21:

3am. So, I’m in bed. I’ve just got the sheets warmed to perfect with my body heat. It’s comfy and cuddly under the doona.

Then I realise I forgot to spritz for bed.

QUANDRY! Do I stay here and wish I hadn’t or get out, spritz something and lose my heated cocoon?

THE STRUGGLE IS REAL

My long time buddy, since we were teens is coming for a champagne brunch this morning. Doing a little cleaning and pottering around the house before she comes. I love how the house feels with Jin sound asleep in the bedroom and me just going about the cleaning rituals. I’m burning an Ainslie Walker for MudAustralia Candle to make the house smell like flowers instead of old men and dogs.

I did Bacon, French Toast and Golden Syrup, Percolated coffee and Verve Mimosas. It was wonderful fun chatting and laughing. I’m so lucky to have these two beauties in my life.

On my person I have spritzed Perfumerie Generale 25 Indochine. Beautiful, sweet woods. Balmy, Smooth.

Bathe and off to work. DIOR Mitzah and lashings of it. While driving to work I was absolutely overwhelmed by it. So lavish and glamorous. Here’s a pic at the end of the night with Kim R and Anna-Maria. These girls are the bomb, I love them to infinity.

So how about you? How was your week? What frags did you wear?” Did you do or go anywhere interesting?
Share please in the comments.
I love to read about your lives too.
Portia xxx

Superstitious by Dominique Ropion for Frederic Malle 2016

May 9, 2017 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 8 Comments

Val the Cookie Queen

Good Day from the UK APJ Peeps!

As you read this I will probably be trundling my way towards the Frederic Malle store in Burlington Arcade with Tara from A Bottled Rose and the B.londeswunder. Originally it was planned that we would sniff Superstitious together, but that was four weeks ago. I mostly have no problem waiting to try something but every once in a while the junkie in me grabs hold and I have no control. I commented on a FB thread as to how excited I was to try Superstitious and six days later the postman turned up with a package from France with a sample in it. Nothing like a generous addict helping another one out. I believe we call it an enabler in our circle? As opposed to a pusher?

Superstitious Alber Elbaz par Frederic Malle 2017

Superstitious by Dominic Ropion

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Jasmine, rose, peach, amber, incense, vetiver, patchouli, aldehydes

For some reason I keep calling this perfume suspicious, I think I need to tattoo Superstitious onto my forehead. Dunno why I can´t get a handle on it.

Malle´s first collaboration was with Dries von Noten, the Belgian fashion designer. This was back in 2013. He returns now with number two. Superstitious is an alliance with Alber Elbaz, the Moroccan-Israeli fashion designer, formerly of Lanvin. You might wanna Google him if you have a few moments. He is a really interesting character not to mention his exquisite designs. If I were rich and wore dresses …….

GOBSTOPPER SWEETS

Gobstoppers (jawbreakers) consist of a number of layers and colours, and as each layer dissolves another appears; these layers are often flavoured too. It takes hours and hours, and sometimes days to finish them.

Here we have jasmine, rose, a hint of peach, amber, incense, vetiver, and patchouli wrapped in a thick layer of waxy aldehydes. There is an underlying whisp of grapeness too, the dark purple artificially flavoured Kool-Aid kind. A 1950´s vintage fragrance presented to us in 2017. As the divine waxy aldehydes melt away, the jasmine just bursts forth indolic, with elegance and sophistication. It languishes and slowly melts down into the rich velvety foundation, yet remains intertwined with the full-bodied base notes. Lavish but with a rough edge, and particularly seductive.

It is perfect, Ropion knows it, and I doubt he cares less what anyone else has to say about it.

Further reading: Candy Perfume Boy and Perfume Posse
Frederic Malle has €50/10ml

After using the sample I promptly ordered the 10ml travel spray. My first jasmine. I hope Tara and I will find something else to sniff and whilst in the shop! A travel Dries van Noten might not hurt eh?

Suspicious Bussis
CQ

PS. It might be fair to say if waxy aldehydes and indolic jasmine sounds like death warmed up, you might wanna try something else – as did LJG.

(Ed: Pics supplied by Val the CQ unless otherwise noted)

FRAGs and FRAGments From The Last Fortnight

April 25, 2017 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 22 Comments

Val the Cookie Queen

Felicitations APJ

It´s been bloody freezing here. Between like 1°c and 4°c. Snow flurries, and peach and cherry blossoms hanging on for dear life. It has at least given me the chance to get back to a proper gym routine. This week I will start spinning classes again and I am terrified. Been working out to The Doors, The Lumineers and the Easy Rider soundtrack.

FRAGs Worn

Frederic Malle Le Parfum de Therese. Sunny, tangy, sweet, dry and earthy. It´s a fascinating scent and makes me feel very grownup. Graceful and sophisticated.
Hermès Galop d’Hermès. Sunrise to sunset. A sparkly golden astringent opening, quince and saffron, a bright rose, and a long slow dry down to a dusky copper gold leather base.

Vero Profumo Naja. A green and floral tobacco. A blonde tobacco perfume, highlighted with neroli and bergamot, honeyed linden, and flecked with osmanthus.
Ormonde Jayne Tolu. Sumptuous but not overpowering. Subtly opulent. A vibrant herbal opening, contrasting beautifully with the rich amber heart. Resinous, warm and comforting.

FRAGments

B.blondeswunder stole my Portrait of a Lady for the Easter weekend away with the family of her boyfriend. (Note that they live in the boonies of Austria.) She applied four spritzes. Her boyfriend asked if she was wearing something new. To which she replied “Yep. Do you like it?” He replied “It might take me some time to get used to it.” Hahahahahahahahaha. Death by PoaL. I also came across a picture of MY Galop and MY cat on HER Instagram Story. I may have to lock my perfume wardrobe.

B.londesuwnder also practiced her drag make up technique on NoFear Chris, her long suffering Hero Dad.

BJTG (my seldom featured son) had a tattoo, not yet healed.

Great Grandmother turned 101.

A dear friend had a mild stroke. Total shit. Life is not always like it seems in the blogs.

Keep on truckin’
Bussis
CQ

Noir Epices by Michel Roudnitska for Frederic Malle 2000

December 19, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 14 Comments

Post by Claire Vukcevic

.
Hi APJ folk!

We’ve been enjoying an amazing autumn here in Ireland. Lucky enough to live in the most sheltered spot on this rain-sodden island, we spent most of October and November trawling the long, golden beaches and kicking over the leaves in castle parks. The sun never stopped shining, temperatures barely dipped below 15 degrees, and we were all in such a damn good mood. Then one day, driving back from a jaunt to Kilkenny, I made the fatal mistake of saying, “And imagine – the kids haven’t been sick even once!”

Jesus.

Naturally, there hasn’t been a dry tissue in the house since. There’s been the flu, chest infections, and a torn cornea that necessitated an emergency hospital visit and a hefty bill (no health insurance). More familiar with hospital waiting rooms than I’d care to be, I have developed a perfume strategy that helps a bit. I wear powerfully radiant, antiseptic fumes that march ahead of me, wiping whole rooms down with Dettol before I enter, and whisper “Do not fuck with me” to receptionists.

Noir Epices by Frederic Malle 2000

Noir Epices by Michel Roudnitska

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Orange, rose, geranium
Heart: Nutmeg, cinnamon, pepper, cloves
Base: Sandalwood, patchouli, cedar, vanilla

Yeah, so, I’m wearing a lot of Noir Epices. It is a difficult, somewhat prickly perfume – a sort of stripped-down, Vorsprung Durch Technik version of Coco. Re-engineered to remove all the sweetness and ballasting amber; it’s the perfume equivalent of whittling a comfy sofa into a Philippe Starck chair.

WikiCommons

In the opening notes, a hot pink rose stumbles onto the scene, flushed and boozy, washed down with the metallic sheen of geranium leaf. It is intensely beautiful to me at first because I get the impression of fullness – the bitter greenness of the geranium balanced by the rose, and the dry, peppery spices are backed up by rich woods. Singed orange peel and clove burn through spices, florals, and woods, purifying the unclean air around me and excoriating the flesh around open wounds. Noir Epices is the answer to the plague.

I feel fierce when I wear this, but eventually the very things that make me feel protected wear me down. Wearing Noir Epices is like putting a pure vitamin C serum on your face – the burning feels good because you know that it is active, but at the same time, the discomfort is real. Noir Epices has all the trappings of a rich spice oriental – the acidity of spilled orange juice, dry pomander woods, black pepper, an excitable rose – but completely lacks the underpinnings. There is no amber, vanilla, or creamy, hefty woods to round this out in the base, and while I understand that its appeal comes from this woody weightlessness, I would wish for a kinder, more forgiving ending. Noir Epices is a stern judge of character.

Wikipedia

Longevity and sillage are outstanding, 7 hours at the least. I recommend Noir Epices to anyone in need of a magic potion to ward off illnesses, and to fans of spicy, dry orange-rose pomander fragrances such as Coco and Maharanih.

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and Non Blonde
Mecca has $217/50ml with FREE Australian Shipping
Surrender To Chance have samples starting at $8.69/ml

What do you guys use to banish the sickies?

Slán,
Claire

The Modern Fougere: Kurkdjian, Malle, Penhaligon’s

September 23, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 10 Comments

Post by Liam

Howdy Hum Salubrious Scentophiles.

Of the entire gamut of fragrances, I am most cautious of the Fougere.

Why? Do this for me- play a game of covert ops (if you are a man, this is easy. If you are a woman, pretend you are buying a gift for a boyfriend). Head on down to your local department store and ask the question: “I am looking for a safe fragrance at around the one-hundred dollar mark”. Tell them he doesn’t often wear scent, perhaps only for special occasions.

I am willing and happy to wager that if they do not offer you an aquatic to try, they will then offer you either a fragrance in the wood category or the Aromatic Fougere.

The Modern Fougere: Kurkdjian, Malle, Penhaligon’s

What’s wrong with the mass market Fougere? The structure of a Fougere is largely complex, richly layered with a harmonious topdown structure from a vibrant citrus top note, an aromatic hum in the middle, and a weighty wooded base at the bottom. When perfumes mess with these transitions, with cloying drydowns and/or linalool and ambroxan driven facets, piercing top notes, and imperceptible accords – the Fougere has been tarnished.

Jean-Paul Guerlain made a statement that I am inclined to adhere to. He believed that apart from Guerlain’s two Fougere scents – Jicky and Mouchoir de Monsieur, any other Fougere is for truck drivers. Given my current and (of course) personal perspective of the market, I am inclined to say the same.

However! The Fougere begins to shine a pulsating, welcoming, and soft glow when we begin to look at a few more ‘uppermarket’ scents. Here are my favourite Fougeres for a contemporary market.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Sartorial by Penhaligon’s

A superstar in the fragrance community (and when you have the confidence, fragcom is the appropriate blend word to use), I personally really admire Sartorial for its classicism.

I get what I want from Sartorial: a lavender, amber, and sandalwood structure that alloys down a citrus impression at the opening. But Duchaufour takes it a step further. He places the scent in context. In a Saville Row tailor’s workroom. Beeswax, metallic notes, steam-iron notes, and a linen fabric accord intermingle with the classic structure giving depth, definition, and clarity. A wonderful scent.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Masculin Pluriel by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

This is the antidote to my woes. I am saddened by a lack of clarity in Fougere scents – with these instead presenting a musty static that I cannot bare. Much like Sartorial, the name suggests a throwback to what makes a masculine fragrance – a Fougere! Lavender is a must, along with red cedar, leather, and patchouli. A fragrance representing a quest for the ‘eternal masculine’, a ‘timeless scent’, this comes pretty close. It it predicable and forward, like a good gentleman.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Geranium Pour Monsieur – Frederic Malle

A minty wildcard, I am currently really liking this one. It is tenacious. It opens with a smooth abrasiveness from Chinese geranium – giving a floral potency lifted with nose tingling mint, anise, and ouzo notes. Combined with the spice of clove, cinnamon and then swept with crystalline musk – Geranium Pour Monsieur omits the toothpaste impression but retains its menthol-like freshness. It is precise; a well-tuned creation that plays on cool and hot. Creating a sophisticated, refreshing and tonic-like fragrance, Geranium Pour Monsieur is probably the best mint-driven scent on the market, and a superb quasi-fougere.

Be kind, and rethink your labelling of the (otherwise almighty) Fougere.
What’s a modern Fougere to you?

-Liam

P.S I’m away for a while, Yr12 exams! See you soon!

Gabriella's Three New Fragrant Favourites

June 4, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 11 Comments

Post by Gabriella

Hi perfume lovers,

It’s so easy for me to fall into a perfume rut. My white floral adoration and Mr M’s penchant for dark, spicy roses can sometimes mean that I rarely go outside of my comfort zone of the two genres when it comes to wearing scents.

Maybe I’ll get samples or decants just to sniff something different or for the purposes of writing a blog post, but it’s a very rare occasion indeed when I find not one, but three perfumes that don’t fall into either category, but feel utterly perfect to me.

But that unexpected moment has happened and today I want to share with you my three new favourite NON white-floral/dark-rose perfumes

Gabriella’s Three New Fragrant Favourites

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Eau de Magnolia by Carlos Benaim for Frederic Malle 2014

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Calabrian bergamot
Heart: Magnolia, vetiver, patchouli
Base: Cedar, mos, amber

I’m not one for colognes and magnolia isn’t my favourite flower, but this to me is just utterly magical. A sharp burst of bergamot with a verdant twist of lime morphs into a subtle green and mossy magnolia underscored by the dryness of vetiver. It’s an easy to wear, yet utterly elegant and sophisticated chypre that have me craving spring.

Further reading: Australian Perfume Junkies and Perfume Posse
Mecca Cosmetica starts at $59 for 10ml
Surrender to Chance starts at $7.59/ml

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Misia by Olivier Polge for Chanel 2015

Fragrantica gives these notes in one line:
Violet, iris, orris root, Turkish rose, Grasse rose, Laos benzoin, tonka bean.

Rose and violet is a combination that usually has me running the other way. I didn’t expect to like Misia, let alone love it, given the myriad of comparisons with Lipstick Rose and the like, but I do. The difference for me is the sharp opening of iris, which lends the rose violet accord a little dryness and fizziness. There’s a powdery, candied vibe as the iris veers into the rose-violet accord while berry notes lends a sweet vibe to the rose without veering too much into the dreaded fruity floral territory. Misia is just such a pleasure to wear, it absolutely sparkles on my skin and has enough Chanel sophistication whilst feeling completely modern and different to the rest of the Exclusifs line.

Further reading: Australian Perfume Junkies and Grain de Musc
Misia is available at Chanel boutiques, US$280/AUD$350/300ml
Surrender to Chance starts at $3.99/ml

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Wit by Yann Vasnier for Parfums DelRae

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lemon, mandarin orange, angelica, laurels
Heart: Jasmine, narcissus, mimosa, ylang-ylang
Base: Amber, vanilla, musk

Wit surprised me, given that DelRae’s creations, whilst completely beautiful to sniff, never really work on me skin wise. Plus, the lemon element scared me a bit, given citrus can turn overly sharp and cloying on me, but Wit had me at hello. The opening is bright creamy lemon, softly sweet and also lemon curdy in nature, with a decidedly tactile and almost edible quality. The citrus notes sparkle and yet are softly sweet before segueing into the jasmine and daphne which is all bright yellow and tempered by the soft green of the laurel and angelica. Wit is a surprisingly different floral, with a brightness and richness I haven’t found in the genre for quite some time.

Further reading: Colognoisseur and Now Smell This
Luckyscent has $150/50ml
Surrender to Chance starts at $3.99/0.5ml

What three fragrances are your favourites at the moment? What fragrances do you love that are outside your comfort zone?

With much love till next time!

M x

Liam's Top 3 Frederic Malle Roses 2015

March 18, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 16 Comments

Post by Liam

The ultimate flower, a total chameleon of the fragrant spectrum. A rose’s nuances are broad and all-encompassing from woody notes, citrusy overtones, herbal impressions, and delectable fruity tinges whilst lending itself so easily to dank agarwood oriental creations, rich gourmands, and powdery scents with a focus on makeup or femininity. No wonder the Editions de Parfums lineup from Frederic Malle has several rose fragrances!

Photo Stolen Flickr

Liam’s Top 3 Frederic Malle Roses 2015

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Lipstick Rose by Ralf Schwieger for Frederic Malle 2000

The risk of smelling like a grandmother always scared me, however Ralf Schwieger turns the smell of lipstick into a sexy medley of intricate notes that firmly plays with the lipstick impression.

Here, the waxy aspects of lipstick are fully heightened. Sweet musks with an almost edible trail form the lingering base, which twirl around a duotone heart of rose and violet. The lipstick impression here is crisp, vanilla-hued and candy-like … And despite my gender this makes me want to source some lipstick and wear it, to experience the sensation of glamour and magnetic attraction without the prominent flounce found in larger floral bouquets. This is a respectable rose fragrance, with a subtle amount of glam found through the raspberry and its rich trail. The projection is subtle on the skin, but the lingering sillage is prominent – truly like a goodbye kiss.

For me, the vintage inspiration is most captivating and I am instantly reminded of times I snuck into my grandmother’s room and scuffled around her makeup drawers with an innocuous curiosity.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Une Rose by Edouard Flechier for Frederic Malle 2003

In this fragrance, the olfactory portrait of a rose flower is extended to feature everything. Imagine the anatomy of a rose – The bright red petals and the stamen, the green leaves, stem and thorns. Each fundamental feature of the rose utilised. Une Rose opens like a green and vegetal rose; particularly a dark shard of green with heavy and dense overtones. Une Rose, meaning ‘one rose’ or ‘a rose’, is a soliflore fragrance in the least soliflore way possible. One is hit smack bang with a wet rose pulled out of the ground, roots and all. Dank with the impression of earth, truffle, and petrichor in the background, Une Rose gives rose an exciting treatment combining it with a taut backbone of strong black Perigord truffle.

Une Rose melts and projects off the skin, with the truffle base at the origin of this sensuous rose. To link the carnal smell of skin and the vegetal nature of the flower, I detect an undercurrent of vetiver and patchouli adding a woody and lush edge, with the erotic severity of animalic castoreum. Dig deeper, and a warm and spicy red wine note can be found – adding to the deepness of Une Rose.

Wear it and own it. Une Rose is an intellectually composed fragrance that causes tremors when worn and projects sternly.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Portrait of a Lady by Dominique Ropion for Frederic Malle 2010

Portrait of a Lady has excited a perfume audience in a way that seldom occurs. Here the magic happens – in which natural compliments are explored and any richness is cut to give delicacy. What happens here also is overloading done to the extreme – with Malle claiming that the Turkish rose absolute and patchouli absolute here is the most used ever in perfume history, about 50%. To add to this lavish composition, orientalism is favoured with a symphony of ingredients added – oud, incense, pepper, and clove, appealing to those who love the drama of perfume, with evident transitions of rose that intensifies and perpetually changes on the skin.

This is a spicy turkish delight, with emphasis placed on the word ‘delight’. It is viscous, and screams opulence at the highest level possible with a penetrating angular projection – it is loud but never deafening.

Surrender To Chance has samples of all three fragrances

What’s your favourite rose? How would you describe it in 3 words?
Liam x

Debussy: Rêverie (1890)

January 16, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 18 Comments

Hey there lovely APJ Crew,

Thanks for stopping by, it’s always nice to have you in the house. Sometimes I like to sit in front of my computer with a cup of coffee or tea (today it’s one of Jin’s freaky flower teas from Korea) with a large amount of fragrance on and put on a short piece of music, close my eyes and float away on both fragrance and sound.

Today things are quite hectic around here so I thought I’d take 5 minutes for myself. It can become very hard to focus on one thing when there are five or six problems, ideas or deadlines all pressuring you. I often find this a help. By the time my 5 minutes is up I am calmer and more able to think my way through stuff, in this short break my subconscious has also had time to create a list and action plan by the time I open my eyes. It’s not a universal cure all but it can be just enough to let me think clearly.

Photo Stolen WikiCommons

What fragrance am I engulfed in today to listen?

Carnal Flower by Dominique Ropion for Frederic Malle.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, melon, eucalyptus
Heart: Ylang-ylang, jasmine, tuberose, Salicylates (natural, toxic product of herbal origin, a sort of a herbal pheromone which is used by plants as a warning)
Base: Tuberose absolute, orange blossom absolute, coconut, musk

Perfect to sit and listen to this Debussy piece that is tranquil, yearning and questioning.

Please enjoy,
Portia xx

Debussy: Rêverie (1890)

Dries Van Noten by Bruno Jovanovic for Frederic Malle 2013

December 20, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 14 Comments

Hiya Wafty Wanderers,

Here’s my point of view. It is merely supposition and has no direct basis in fact or information received. If Estee Lauder has bought Frederic Malle then things are going to change. There is a little twinkle in my brain saying Malle would rather sell his company than change the formulas to IFRA comply. Estee Lauder on the other hand will go through and do the best possible reform they can at the best price, get IFRA approval and take it to a whole new mainstream level. I repeat, this is all supposition….

In other news I think Dries van Noten would be a perfect Christmas scent, modern and old fashioned come together beautifully here. It may have pushed Azuree out of the way this year….

Dries Van Noten par Frederic Malle 2013

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Sandalwood, guaiac wood, tonka bean, vanilla, saffron, jasmine, musk, bergamot, lemon, nutmeg, cloves, patchouli, woody notes and peru balsam

Last year when I tried Dries van Noten I was instantly in love, then I did not buy a bottle because other more pressing things took over my head and up till now it had not happened. So while I was in Chicago, filled with the fear of reformulation I decided to plunge on the 50ml bottle.

Here’s what I wrote in my last review, I think it sums up Dries van Noten perfectly:

…Warm marshmallow sweet and slightly spicy vanilla open(ing) that smells so familiar, like someone I love is nearby, even though I’m sure that I’ve not smelled this mix before. Every time I wear Dries Van Noten it has instantly calmed and unruffled me….

Each previous time I have worn Dries Van Noten for the purpose of reviewing it has grabbed my head and asked me to just sit and enjoy its beauty. The whole fragrance feels extremely uncluttered, though it is dense. It goes through a milky, nutmeg stage that reads egg flip to me. An egg flip was dinner sometimes when we were young and made as a great treat for us kids, whole egg, nutmeg, vanilla, ice cream and milk. It was huge and delicious. Nowadays when I (remember) how strict Mum’s budget was I think that maybe she was eeking out her ration by giving us a liquid dinner out of, at that time, extremely cheap materials. I’ll never know now but my sister Jodie and I would feel so great on an egg flip night.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

Simple, warm, comfortable and yummy. Dries van Noten is the most deliciously wearable oriental fragrance. Simple yet complex and it moves me in unexpected ways. It’s like a cocoon of scent that I can curl up in, feel safe and peaceful and remember simple times. Also 100% wearable outside the front door and nobody will be skunked or outraged. If you are after boundary pushing, freaky, “can’t believe they put this shit in a bottle” then move along, you will hate Dries van Noten. If, on the other hand you are all about smelling fantastic then give it a whirl.

Photo Stolen Flickr

Further reading GrainDeMusc and Patty at PerfumePosse
Frederic Malle starts at $125/3 x 10ml (I think this is IDEAL for splitting)
SurrenderToChance starts at $6/ml

Have you tried dries van Noten? Did it send you or bore you to death?
Portia xx