New Sniffs + Thunked: 11.4.2019




Hey Hey Perfume Junkies,

I’d love it if you get involved: agree, respectfully disagree, have any thought-out opinion and want to share, do so in the comments below. The point is starting a conversation.

Anything worthy of comment, either good or bad, that’s passed under my nose through the week will get a short write up. If I think something is terrible, shamefully lazy, greedy or stupid and you should know about it, it will be said. As always YMMV.

Thunk is the sound of an empty hitting the bin but there is some leeway here, selling or gifting away can also count.

We also want to know what you have tried or thunked each week too, please share in the comments below. You don’t need to be a hardcore perfumista to join in, just give your impressions. Others will join in with their impressions too, everyone has a slightly or hugely different experience with scent. That’s part of the fun.

New Sniffs + Thunked: 11.4.2019

Over 50 responses I will draw a Secret Scent Sample Pack (from my collection)

Last Weeks Winner: Hajusuuri

eMail me at (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with your address please

New Sniffs:

Leather Oud by DIOR

Not really NEW but I did dig my bottle out after it sitting in a box since the week after I bought it. Bought in 2012 or 13. It seems to have mellowed considerably. While still being a band aid style oud and a lovely dark leather it now shows so much more honey and patchouli. Really beautiful.

Chypre Shot by Olfactive Studio

Chypre Shot opens quite warm and amber-ish with a spicy pepper/saffron zing and smooth cardamom overlaying all. Not a chypre in the vintage mode, here a clean patchouli works with hints of moss. Very nice.

Oajan by Parfums de Marly

(Thanks Matt D for the sample) Osmanthus and honey spend dry and sweet, given a lift by the green artemisia. I’m not sure why Fragrantica lists cinnamon as the leading ingredient, I can’t smell it at all. Cajan smells surprisingly like a “natural” fragrance and has that slight, dark swampiness about it. It could be the ambergris mixed up with all the vanilla, sweet beans and resins. Interesting but unfriendly and weird.

Pink Pepper Wood by 1000 Flowers

Well named. Zingy pink pepper over a floral woodsy base with cool, unburnt incense sticks. A nice hit of clove gives the pepper a very pleasant depth. Though it is really nice Pink Pepper Wood doesn’t really sing for me. It could be my mood.


Fiery Pink Pepper mini by Molton Brown

This is the third Molton Brown mini from TinaGs Christmas Present. One more to use. They are lovely. Excellent scents and bubble action. Perfect gifts.

Have you tried any of these? How did they work for you?
Portia xx

62 thoughts on “New Sniffs + Thunked: 11.4.2019

  1. Thunked a small decant of korrigan by Lubin, great juice. About Oajan from PDM, is funny cause i feel a lot of cinnamon, especially in the opening 🙂 other than that, yeah i agree it was a little bit weird at first sniff but after a few wearings it has changed a lot on me (in a good way), so give it more wearings 👍🏻 Also it feels nice in the air cause i’ve got positive comments everytime i’ve used it 😊


  2. I thunked two this week but can’t for the life of me remember what they were☺️ I’m such a doddery old woman. I’m only several years late in trying Bois des Iles. Very nice but not setting me alight. It’s well put together and very Chanel.. Tried Fève Délicieuse, and really like that one. It’s a snuggle fume. I haven’t tried any of yours, P, as per usual. I’m really liking the sound of Pink Pepper Wood.


  3. That Chypre Shot sounds very good to me, Portia.
    I’ve decided to try some Chanels after many decades of avoiding them for fear of disappointment because of reformulations. I compared Cristalle EdT and EdP and No 19 EdT and EdP and I found them all still very beautiful. I prefer the EdP versions though. I’ve tried 1957 too and I understand the love it gets. You can smell how the notes unfold – bergamot, orange, iris, musk. Simply beautiful.
    Oh, and I’ve tried ISO E Super my friend bought on ebay. It could totally pass for Molecule 01 and it is 10 times cheaper.
    No thunks for me last week.


  4. I’m not familiar with your new sniffs Portia, and the scent of pink pepper I just can’t identify or figure out. Still not sure what it is supposed to smell like?
    I’m sampling some Ex Nihilo (Devil Tender, Venenum Kiss, Love Shot, Sweet Morphine), and I’m really liking them all. I could see myself pursuing a full bottle of one of them some day.


    • Hey Kathleen,
      I’m no perfumer but when Pink Pepper is in something I get a zing, much like aldehydes but with a hint of dry, cracked pepper.
      OOOH The Ex Nihilo range is very popular in the niche hound world. I’ve tried a couple but think I might need to find the set and sample properly.
      Portia xx


      • Thank you for that explanation Portia. I will be receiving a 1000Flowers sampler coffret very soon and will sample the Pink Pepper and try to differentiate and understand that note.
        Do give Ex Nihilo some more sniffs, I’m really enjoying them!


  5. And I’ve just thunked my Mécanique! Resprayed myself for going out to a show. I smell mighty fine, if I do say so myself. Oh and congratulations to hajusuuri on winning PPP.


  6. Congrats to Hajusuuri on your win.
    The only new sniff for me wasn’t even mine. It was a Bond No 9 my friend had just reveived.I think it was just called Harrods.


  7. I have been trying a couple of Hendley perfumes that are new or I didn’t know. The new one is Untitled, which I love: its very strong on the sandalwood on me, but with iris and vetiver also present. An older one that I am liking but not with the same kind of love is Blond. It starts off strong and then fades a bit to a point where things are quite indistinct to my nose. And there seems to be something new in the works, as he sent me sample of one not listed on Fragrantica: Narcis, I think it’s called, and it is straight up wonderful daffodil. Me want more.

    I finished a bottle of I Miss Violet, but fortunately have a back up as it is a perfume I love.


  8. Thunked a homemade sample of Chanel Gardenia. Portia’s new sniffs are not familiar to me and since I’m not a big fan of pink pepper or oud, a few are not of the kind I would seek out.

    Really should try something from Parfums de Marly, need to get around to swapping with friends again.


    • was your gardenia the chanel exclusive formula? I have recently gotten that formula which came in 35 ml bottles with white cap. I wonder how much that is different from the latest version.


      • Yes, the Exclusive formula, bought earlier this year. It seems quite similar to the gardenia one I tested in Copenhagen in 2013, in fact. But I guess what I tested then was technically edt.


        • The gardenia I have is not part of the exclusive line. I think it is from the time when gardenia was part of chanel’s regular line. Maybe early 2000s era before the introduction of exclusive line. It is 35ml bottle and has the same shape as some of other Chanel’s 35 ml bottles, just replacing usual black cap for no. 5 or coco with white cap.


    • Chanel Gardenia is incredibly beautiful Ingeborg.
      I have Parfums de Marly Athalia. It has orange blossom, iris, amber, and musk. A powdery floral if you like that sort of fragrance.


  9. I have Leather Oud, too, the very first formula. I had two bottles, one 125ml and 250 but sold the 250 one which was the first reformulation. even 125 ml is too much and I don’t expect to finish it since just a spray or two works. I am glad if it mellows down over time because I would prefer that. I like Oud Ispahan more in this style. You can see clear link between leather oud and oud ispahan but that rose twist in oud ispahan is really amazing. Now that i think, Oud Ispahan is probably my favorite oud rose perfume. Every other oud rose perfumes smells the same so for Oud Ispahan to reveal a different kind of oud rose combo deserves lot of credit.


  10. I adore Pink Pepper Wood. I bought the sprays when I was there and so far all make me happy and they last a good while on my skin. Looking forward to hearing what you all think of your samples!


  11. I’ve had plenty of familiar sniffs this week, still am playing with that bunch of samples a friend sent me a couple weeks ago, the new ones (I mean now I’ve formed a more or less stable opinion on them) were Le Galion Special for gentlemen, a gorgeous lavender scent that reminds me of vintage Jicky, Lutens Datura Noir, – a big “no” from me: it does smell like the poisonous flower, and vintage Ma Griffe. I love the clary sage note in this one.


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