Œillet Sauvage by Anne Flipo for L’Artisan Perfumer 2000

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Post by Portia

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Hi there Hard To Find Addicts,

There is a special place in many perfume collectors hearts for the very rare, the discontinued and the earlier iterations. Though I do have some rare birds in the collection it’s about trying the scent for me rather than owning a bottle so a couple of ml will usually satisfy my curiosity. Sometimes though the desire will bite hard and I will move heaven and earth to own the bottle, often laughing at myself for my utter lack of self control.

Today we are looking at a case in point. It was rare as hens teeth, often talked about in hushed, reverential tones and the people who loved it went to any extreme to get some. Then they rereleased it and because it had become less interesting than it originally was people stayed away, now it’s been discontinued again. I bought mine from a mate who often splits, RuthK, and she has told me it’s an older bottle from the original lot! WOO HOO! Today is my first wearing. You get to come along on the olfactory journey with me today. YAY!!

Œillet Sauvage by L’Artisan Perfumer 2000

Œillet Sauvage by Anne Flipo

Œillet Sauvage L'Artisan Parfumeur FragranticaFragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Pepper, Pink pepper
Heart: Carnation, Rose, White lily, Ylang-ylang, Aegean wallflower
Base: Cedar, Musk

Pepper & peony are how Fillet Sauvage opens for me, but pretty quickly the slang fronts up giving a creamy floral warmth. Then quite clearly through that floats carnation, that cool, fresh, powdery feel of carnations against your cheek and in your nose. It contains the light flowers and the sharp undertone. When I press my nose against the fragrance it’s much more realistic carnations, as I move away it becomes a tropical floral. It smells to me like there is some coconut and banana hidden in the depths, and palm leaves.

lartisan oeillet-sauvage carnation PDPPDP

Œillet Sauvage is quite heady through the heart, not loud or bombastic but the scent is warm and spicy. Like a bouquet that has some soft jasmine and tuberose, carnations, yang, some coniferous greenery and palm leaves. Actually, Œillet Sauvage could have been one of the early Annick Goutal scents. It has a very similar proud elegance, sultry and still prim, like there’s a vamp hiding underneath the prettiness. A tigress waiting the perfect time to pounce.

No wonder this was talked of with such reverence. It is absolutely gorgeous. What a shame its gone.

Further reading: One Thousand Scents
eBay sometimes has bottles
Surrender To Chance has modern samples starting at $4.50/ml

What is your discontinued gem? Do you love carnation?
Portia xx

Dior Eau Sauvage: Tribute to a Legend: Video

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Post by Portia

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Hi there APJ,

Christian Dior’s Eau Sauvage has been a staple mens fragrance, gracing their bathrooms and bureaus since 1966. It has survived the changes in fashion and fragrance with tweaks and reformulations. Still it contains hints of what it was while also smelling very nice on the people who love to wear it. Even now when I ask someone who smells particularly good what they’re wearing the answer is sometimes Eau Sauvage.

DIOR has done a lovely video below to celebrate its eternal cash cow. Bravo. 50 years is quite an achievement. Here’s to 50 more.

Eau Sauvage Christian Dior FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lemon, basil, bergamot, cumin, lavender, fruit
Heart: Jasmine, rose, carnation, iris root, coriander, patchouli, sandalwood
Base: Oakmoss, vetiver, musk, amber

Eau Sauvage Christian Dior Fragrantica ad

Dior Eau Sauvage: Tribute to a Legend

Sweet Libertine by Jocelyn Fullerton for Cult Of Scent

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Post by Portia

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Hi there Independent Perfume Lovers,

As you may know I really love the Independent Perfumers. Though I know they are not the right fit for everybody what really appeals to me about their work is the immediacy, the raw, fun, often outrageous ways they take their fragrances. Many of them use a high percentage of the commonly known as natural ingredients which can mean more distinction on how it will wear for you personally. They are also far less bound by market forces, regulation and fashion. No matter how talented a perfumer for the big boys may be they will almost always be working to a brief, that’s not the way to foster creativity and I imagine that many of their lives are far less fun and glamorous than we dream.

Today I’m wearing a fragrance made by one of my mates, Jocelyn, whose fragrances I find extremely enjoyable to wear. Come for the journey with me.

Sweet Libertine by Cult Of Scent

Sweet Libertine by Jocelyn Fullerton

SWEET LIBERTINE Cult of ScentCult of Scent

I won’t put the notes up because you’ll need them to enter the GIVEAWAY below.

Sweet Libertine reads like an intensely animal floral on my skin. It’s a warm, lyrical extravaganza that pulses off my skin in warm auburn hues and creates a fiery warmth in my heart. It purrs beautifully, resinous and elegant, for a couple of hours before the woods take over and more resins that linger and fade over another couple of hours.

SWEET LIBERTINE Cult of Scent John_Glover_-_My_Harvest_Home wikipediaWikipedia

There is something very Australian Outback within its sensual coils and it reminds me of the summer mornings spent down in Temora on my Aunty Faye and Uncle Jim’s farm. The house was clean, spotless, and the table waxed. The red earth and eucalyptus were heating up, chickens scratching around the front yard, dogs at the back door and the sheep were baa-ing. Fresh flowers on the breakfast table, sometimes it was jasmine or wisteria, others it was freesias, zinnias, geraniums of everlasting daisies. The men would eat breakfast early and then be off about their days.

Cult of Scent has Sweet Libertine starting at $35/8ml Travel Spray
There is also a Cult of Scent Sampler $35/3ml samples of the Cult of Scent range

 

YouTube

Cult Of Scent GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 3 winners who will receive:
1 x 1ml decant Cult Of Scent: Sweet Libertine
1 x 1ml decant Cult Of Scent: Hedonist

1 x 1ml decant Cult Of Scent: Something Beautiful
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please go to Cult of Scent<< JUMP and find me a fragrance and an ingredient it contains. No Double Ups!!

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 3rd July 2016 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winner will be chosen by random.org
The winner will have till Wednesday 6th July 2016 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Muguet Porcelain GIVEAWAY WINNER

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Post by Portia

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Hi there APJ!!
Bloody hell! I forgot to draw the winner.

There’s a name below.
WOO HOO!
Portia xx

Muguet Porcelain GIVEAWAY WINNER

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 1 winner who will receive:
1 x Muguet Porcelain by Hermès manufacturers sample (my blogging sample)
1 x sample Be Beautiful by Jessica Mauboy (from my bottle)
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Saturday 25th June 2016 10pm
Winner was chosen by random.org

winner-is HighestSelf

Ellen Covey

The winner will have till Friday July 1st 2016 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Mon Paris – Yves Saint Laurent: Video

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Post by Portia

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Hi there APJ,

Something new from YSL! Once upon a time that would be the cue for great rejoicing and whispers of intrigue. Now the only way I know about it is because they have released their ad and it came up on my YouTube.

They are selling it as a modern chypre and while I applaud their audacity still I think I will reserve judgement till I can get my nose on some.

Mon Paris by Yves Saint Laurent 2016

Mon Paris by Olivier Cresp, Harry Fremont and Dora Baghriche-Arnaud

Mon Paris Yves Saint Laurent FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Calabria bergamot, strawberry, raspberry, pear
Heart: Datura flower, peony, Chinese and Sambac jasmine, orange blossom.
Base: White musk (three types of it), ambroxan, patchouli (Indonesia and Guatemala)

Please enjoy the video. I think it’s gorgeous. What do you think?
Portia xx

Mon Paris – Yves Saint Laurent

Bas de Soie by Christopher Sheldrake for Serge Lutens 2010

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Post by Portia

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Hiya Fumies,

For some reason I have always overlooked todays fragrance. Not sure why. Nothing about it has ever jumped out at me but I’d also never read the notes list. Having fallen truly, madly and deeply in love with Apollo Hyacinth by Eric Buterbaugh Florals it suddenly seemed necessary to try another hyacinth fragrance and Serge Lutens often creates the benchmark, so it was to his that I gravitated.

Bas de Soie by Serge Lutens 2010

Bas de Soie by Christopher Sheldrake

Bas de Soie Serge Lutens FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Iris, galbanum, hyacinth, spices, musk

One year when we were kids my Mum splurged on a packet of Hyacinth bulbs. We were great gardeners, Mum & I, and spent whole weekends together creating and recreating the garden. Sydney is a funny climate and most bulbs get one year of fabulous and then rot in the ground. Anyway, this year the Hyacinths came up and were a beautiful blue, Mum was thrilled. Bas de Soie reminds me of the feeling that Mum & I had really achieved something to have these beautiful flowers to show for our efforts.

Bas de Soie reminds me of that spring. It’s alive, fresh, hopefull springlike green opening is so like the sap of freshly cut hyacinths. It has that glorious galbanum which smells both incredibly cool and aloof while also giving me a smooth, resinous, shiny and reflective smell. I am explaining it very badly but hopefully you understand.

bas-de-soie-serge-lutens hyacinth PixabayPixabay

Iris is green and only lightly powdery. Actually it’s like the cool spring morning air blowing through the lovely green and grey leaves of the iris, that makes the flowers shiver of their impossibly long stems. Then the startling cascade of colour, a positive riot of purples, yellows, oranges and pinks.

About 30 minutes in and then Bas de Soie changes. It warms through slightly, while still being green and light as air, maybe the spices and musk but it feels woody and earthy.

Now you will be fragrant, people will smell you, but there is little chance of your fragrance ever skunking anyone if you’re wearing Bas de Soie. It’s a very pretty floral. Maybe if CHANEL No 19 is a bit too severe then the friendliness of Bas de Soie could quite well be a better fit for you.

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and Megan In St. Maxime
LuckyScent has $135/50ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/0.5ml

Do you have a hyacinth fragrance you love? Maybe something that smells so fresh and new?
Portia xx

Muguet Porcelain by Hermès 2016

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Post by Portia

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Hello Fragrant Friends,

Sandra did a great review for Muguet Porcelain recently. You might like to trot back and read a more in depth review. Special thanks must go to Gene at Sydney City Hermès who always makes sure I get a sample of the latest offerings. Ask for her if you’re in shopping, nobody knows the products better or is more charming.

Muguet Porcelain by Hermès 2016

Muguet Porcelain by Jean Claude Ellena

Muguet Porcelain Hermes FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Lily of the valley, green notes

So, I really like Lily of the Valley (LotV) even though it can sometimes skew bathroom deodoriser from my childhood, it was my mum’s favourite. So I’m always happy to read that there’s a new one on the market. We’ve had a small bunch of them lately: Miu Miu, Jessica Mauboy (Australian songstress) and every year for May 1st Guerlain produces a new and glam LotV frag.

Now, when I first smelled Muguet Porcelaine I thought it was a dead ringer for Jessica Mauboy’s Be Beautiful. Now I have them on side by side and while they do share some similarities they are not exactly the same. They both seem to be a combination of melon and LotV, both are green and crisp though Hermès has that famous JCE oily petrol slick note that I adore, both of them are cologne like in their longevity though Muguet Porcelaine does last longer.

An hour in and they are very similar to my nose, Muguet Porcelaine is a little dryer, packed with some extra LotV and galbanum, a hairs breath more nuanced but to the average nose it’s pretty much the same. Better noses than mine, of which most of you are, will probably pick up details I miss but as a price comparison Jessica Mauboy’s Be Beautiful is AUD$20 and Muguet Porcelaine AUD$325. I will buy a 15ml travel though because I love to have a couple of the Hermès in my just in case travel kit.

Further reading: Australian Perfume Junkies and Now Smell This
All Hermès stores have Muguet Porcelaine so go spritz yourself

AllSteele giveaway 1

 

Muguet Porcelain GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 1 winner who will receive:
1 x Muguet Porcelain by Hermès manufacturers sample (my blogging sample)
1 x sample Be Beautiful by Jessica Mauboy (from my bottle)
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Tell us a fragrance that is springlike for you

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close TOMORROW Saturday 25th June 2016 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Wednesday 29th June 2016 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

SNARK! Why Did They Even Bother?

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Post by Portia

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Hello Fragrant Fumies,

Ainslie Walker is off doing amazing stuff so I’m filling in today, she’ll be back in a fortnight.

I thought you all might like a chance to unleash, a place to vent, a moment where you can really let us know what you think about some of the complete shit that has been released under then guise of fragrance. Now you must back up your snark with reasons other than it smells crap. Also if someone trashes your favourite that doesn’t mean your favourite has been invalidated, it means your favourite doesn’t work for someone else. Please don’t get snippy and thin lipped if Andy Tauer, Taylor Swift, Bertrand Duchaufour or DKNY get lampooned. This is a fun vent that we can all have a bit of a laugh about. Extra points go to well crafted snark, brilliant analogies, finely honed butchery and elegant put downs.

SNARK! Why Did They Even Bother?

Right, I’ll get you all started.

Collection Extraordinaire Bois d`Iris Van Cleef & Arpels

Insta-Ranges

Yes, you’ve all seen them. One minute VC&A, Armani, Givenchy, YSL, Oscar de la Renta, Bulgari et al have some fairly limp fruitchoulis on the market shelves next to their one big blockbuster hit from the 60s, 80s or naughties and next moment there are 12 deluxe fragrances in uber simple packaging with one of each frag style included; a musk, an amber, BWF, leather, cologne, aquatic raspberry lotus anise laundry detergent. For F*#ks Sake. Seriously, maybe three in the line are worth sniffing and the rest I wouldn’t use in the bathroom as deodoriser.

These are not the only protagonists in the drama either, it’s becoming more & more common in the niche realm too. Zero scents to 20 in 3 years. PLEASE!!

Surely it also makes no market sense to put all your poorly thought out, boringly designed, committee created dross in one foul swoop. Wouldn’t it make more sense to release two REALLY FREAKING GOOD THINGS and maybe add one every couple of years? Wouldn’t that lend a sense of anticipation, give people something to talk about, make us want and dream and imagine?

Coco Mademoiselle by CHANEL 2001

CocoMademoisell FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Orange, mandarin orange, orange blossom, bergamot
Heart: Mimose, jasmine, Turkish rose, ylang-ylang
Base: Tonka bean, patchouli, opoponax, vanilla, vetiver, white musk

Flankers

Now for this one I do understand the solid business sense behind it. Of course it’s easier to sell a mediocre scent if you piggyback the fame of your houses blockbuster scent from decades ago. I really like the idea of summer versions of the heavier offerings, even like the idea of a yearly release of something crated to enhance your wearing of the original. You know the original Opium or JPG Le Male were pretty full on in an office mid summer, I get it. Make an annual summer flanker in a fun bottle that can also become a collectable. Heaven!

Please don’t create a whole new scent, nothing to do with the magical original that you have slashed and burned till it is a whisper of its former glory and that no self respecting perfumista would use to light a Bar B Q, and link it to your cash cow. It drives me FREAKING WILD! Just two examples on the one scent are Coco Mademoiselle and Coco Noir, either of these are fine scents on their own and I would definitely have liked them a LOT more if they hadn’t been linked to one of the department stores glittering fragrant jewels Coco. ACK! Why?  Imagine if they’d called it CHANEL Noir or Gabrielle, put it in that killer black bottle and I am 100% sure it would still have sold like hot cakes while not watering down the cache of the gorgeous original.

OK, so what gets your goat? Go crazy.
Please don’t be offensive or take offence on someone else comment, we are here to have a laugh today.
Portia xxx

Le Galion: Aesthete GIVEAWAY WINNERS

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Post by Portia

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Hey there APJ Crew,

Great response this week. Good luck.

Thank you so much to the Le Galion guys. Le Galion has €140/100ml (Shipping is only €10, even to Australia!)

Portia xx

Le Galion: Aesthete GIVEAWAY WINNERS

Aesthete Le Galion FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Italian mandarin, artemisia, incense, saffron
Heart: Leather, guaiac wood, castoreum, oud, jasmine
Base: Sandalwood, vanilla, white musk

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 3 winners who will receive:
1 x 10ml decant Le Galion: Aesthete
1 x 1.5ml decant Le Galion: Snob

1 x 1.5ml decant Le Galion: Cologne Nocturne
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Sunday 19th June 2016 10pm Australian EST
Winners were chosen by random.org

Winners Are Bodie Strain Sydney Opera House Fireworks Flickr

Nemo

Claudia S.

Ems

The winners will have till Wednesday 22nd June 2016 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Pia & Nick on Love To Smell

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Post by Portia

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Hello APJ,

I’d like you to meet two of my mates, Pia and Nick. They are both ardent frag peeps, have worked and do work in the industry, have excellent noses and senses of humour and are starting their own YouTube channel. The first few videos they are learning how to create content and there are some fabulous clunky moments of heads down, mumbling and awkwardness. Do please go back and watch the first three because you’ll get a real indication of how lovely and real they both are, like two kids set free in a TV studio and having a ball.

Pia & Nick Love 2 Smell

What happens here at Episode 4 is that the whole concept seems to coalesce into really fun, informative and engaging TV, so do have a look as they introduce a BRAND NEW bunch of frags from a very famous old independent perfumery.

Enjoy,

Portia xx

Love to Smell Episode 4: Amouroud