Fashion

New York by Patricia de Nicolai for Parfums de Nicolai 1989

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Post by Portia

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Hi there Cool kids,

Back in 2014 my mate Tara reviewed New York by Parfums de Nicolai for Olfactoria’s Travels and I said I would try and find a bit of it because her review made me think it was right up my alley. Then I completely forgot about it. Now looking through my stockpile I rediscovered a sample sent to me at some time by someone, um sorry I’ve forgotten who but thank you. So I decided to spritz it yesterday, now I’m wearing it again….

New York by Parfums de Nicolai 1989

New York by Patricia de Nicolai

New York Nicolai Parfumeur FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, amalfi lemon, cloves, lavender, green notes
Heart: Thyme, cinnamon, pepper, paprika, patchouli, cedar
Base: Amber, vanilla, leather

Tara mentions that New York is a masculine Shalimar, well you may know that I adore Shalimar and it’s my favourite scent of all time. I have spent the last couple of days searching for the similarities and differences, then getting so lost in the fragrance that I need to reapply so I can do the comparisons. It’s been fun.

So the open is fresh and bracing but the lavender takes me far away from Shalimar. It feels very old school cologne but drier and more biting. The citrus is lovely, sweet and fleshy and pretty photo realistic. All together I find the opening an exemplary riff on an old trope. Not a big departure but enough to make New York interesting.

New York Nicolai Demuth_Charles_Incense_of_a_New_Church WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

As we settle into New York’s heart the spices remind me that a chypre is supposed to be created without flowers, because the island of Cypress is a place of evergreen shrubs & trees and citrus groves (is New York a chypre, if you substituted leather for oakmoss it could be included). My skin maintains lavender and citrus right through the spicy heart. It’s SO good, so beautifully balanced and blended. I love the smooth and unfussy growth, the slow and stately speed that different accords appear and fade, the hints of a bygone era of beautiful fragrances.

Deep into the heart I notice the pepper, the pepper seems to be casually chatting with the woods. No fireworks, they just stood out the front to make sure I noticed them. Base comes extremely late, it’s at least an hour before the warmth of amber/vanilla even shows its face over the leather and heart (it smells quite vetiverish to me too). Like Shalimar? Not at all. New York is pure old fashioned cologne/chypre and I really enjoyed it.

New York Nicolai Woofer forme-masculine FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and Scented Hound
Neroli Budapest has 11,400Ft (US$40)/30ml and posts worldwide
Surrender To Chance has New York Intense samples from $5/ml

Are any of your fragrance favourite old style? Do the masculine leaning frags bring you happy memories or remind you of sexy men?
Portia xxx

 

CHANEL No 22 EdT by Jacques Polge for CHANEL 2007

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Post by Portia

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Hiya Crew,

You know when you’re looking through the decants? You pick a couple up, look at the labels, put them back, repeat, can’t find something to apply even though there is more choice than the regular department store. So I was doing this familiar dance the other day and my hand landed on a decant from a mate in Oz, a big decant in a lavish black spritz travel thing. I thought, OK, why the hell not and…

CHANEL No 22 EdT by CHANEL 2007

CHANEL No 22 by Jacques Polge

Chanel N°22 Chanel FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Aldehydes, Lily-of-the-valley, Neroli
Heart: Jasmine, Rose, Ylang-ylang
Base: Vanilla, Vetiver

You may remember I discovered CHANEL No.22 in Paris in 2014 with Michael. Since then a few friends have sent or given me different vintages and strengths (Barbara Carter, Ruth M and another couple that have slipped my mind) and I have loved them all. The thing is, that first incredible overdose from Rue Cambon in Paris will stay with me forever as the most fabulous 22 of my life. We even snuck into the stairs and had our picture taken!! WOO HOO SCORE! Yes, the old ones may be fuller and more animal but walking the streets of Paris, shopping, meeting buddies and generally hanging out have made an unbreakable connection to the modern for me. So often scent is tied up with the memories.

Portia Michael CHANEL Stairs

The big soapy, syrupy, fizz of modern CHANEL No 22 that tramples the lily of the valley into plush and velvet submission. The sparkly, soft/sharp scintillation like lights glittering on Christmas tinsel which makes way for the hearts bouquet, still glittering but with a creamy and slightly fruity warmth. Clear as a bell but still comforting, soapy and clean but in a polished crystal way rather than blankets. Aloof but not snobby No 22 is divinely wearable and lasting power is excellent. There is even a cool whisper of oily vetiver and incense(?) through the heart that alongside the still extant aldehydes create a steel sculpture of fragrance as the binding centre, the core story if you like, of No 22.

There’s no denying that CHANEL No 22 is big, if size in fragrance is a problem for you then you may have trouble, also if aldehydes are in any way less than fabulous then you will definitely want to move along. No 22’s aldehydes leave No 5 for dead and didn’t even notice its presence. If longevity gets boring for you or you prefer to wear multiple fragrances in a day then again, probably steer clear BUT if you want a super fabulous signature fragrance that will wrap you up warm and tight and with a sillage of a size that will give waterskiers trick jumps, a smooth, glamorous, soapy extravaganza? Try CHANEL No 22.

CHANEL No 22 boat sillage WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Further reading: Perfume Posse and Candy Perfume Boy
CHANEL online, stand alone beauty + fashion stores and large department stores
Surrender To Chance has EdT samples starting at $4/ml

What do you wear when you want to go big?
Portia xx

Calandre by Paco Rabanne: LIVE Video Sniff

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Post by Portia

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Well Hello Vintage Vamps,

Today Scott and I finally open a fragrance that has been in my collection for years. It has winked at me from the recesses of the perfume cupboard and sometimes i grabbed it out only to put it back away. I know, I’m a crazy frag hoarder.

Calandre by Paco Rabanne 1969

Calandre by Michel Hy

 

Calandre Paco Rabanne FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Leaf green, Aldehydes, Bergamot
Heart: Rose, Lily-of-the-valley, Geranium, Jasmine, Iris
Base: Sandalwood, Vetiver, Oakmoss, Musk, Ambergris

Amber Oud by Calice Becker for By Kilian 2011

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Post by Portia

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Hi there Fragrant Fiends,

Oudh. The 21st centuries answer to IFRA compliant base notes. It is the ubiquitous fully fragrant, dark, deep and dirty base note giving a solid grounding to an industry that has lost its regular, centuries old palette to drug companies greed: the modern multinational fragrance component creators. I’m sure it’s a more complex problem and that I’ve missed most of the memos but from the other side of the world this is how it looks to me. Sorry, end rant.

So, I tried Amber Oud around the time it came out and could not justify the spend to myself at that time, 5 years on I wondered if my thoughts had changed with the ever increasing price of fragrance. Was $395 a reasonable price for something I remember being so lovely, and reading the other reviews written at that time it was as special as I remember and many others were happy to drop that kind of cash on it.

Amber Oud by By Kilian 2011

Amber Oud by Calice Becker

Amber Oud By Kilian FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Amber, Benzoin, Spices, Oud, Vanilla, Cedar

Softest, plushest, tamest oudh ever. So gorgeously rolled and folded into the spicy vanilla/amber bakery and only held slightly dry by the crispness of cedar. Warm and enveloping I can see why even the oudh haters love Amber Oud so. Lightly medicinal, a tiny hint of band aid and only the merest waft of poop Amber Oud is almost a gourmand oudh, oudh light or kiddies oudh. So velvet soft and cozy, as close to a warm beige cashmere lounge throw as oudh can be. Delightful, sweet, sensational and gorgeous: the words that jump into my head while sniffing are not the usual ones associated with oudh in my experience. The By Kilian crew have created the most fabulous general public oudh and it makes me smile.

The amber is sweet and caramelised, lit from within and effulgent Ambre Oud grows more and more lovely. Very reminiscent through its heart of the L’Artisan L’Eau d’Ambre, a similar warmth and purity. It stays pretty and buoyant and luxurious, the most expensive caramel toffee.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Here’s my quandry: yes this is lovely. It’s incredibly wearable, luxurious and gorgeous, no doubt about it. When I press my nose to my fragrant spots it is utterly swoon worthy. When it’s not so close, when I’m catching whiffs of it as I go about my day, Amber Oud is not a lot better than 50 other ambers on the market. From Queen Latifah through L’Artisan, Nicolai to Giorgio Armani: yes they are all different but at arms length the differences are not so pronounced, yummy amber. Is Amber Oud at $395 from $370-$150 better? Is it really? I hang my head in shame because for me the answer is no…. I’ll put my decant away and try it again one day, maybe then?

Amber Oud By Kilian red No Entry Pixabay

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and Bois de Jasmin
LuckyScent has $395/50ml
Surrender To Chance has $5/0.5ml

What is your cut off point? Do you have one? How important is having something in your collection?
Portia xx

 

 

 

Pink Sugar Sensual by Aqualina 2009

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Post by Poodle

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Definition of Sensual: of or arousing gratification of the senses and physical, especially sexual, pleasure

I always think Pink Sugar is one of those perfumes whose target audience is the younger crowd, I’m talking tweens and teens. It seems odd to me to have a flanker called Sensual for that demographic but hey, what do I know?

Pink Sugar Sensual by Aqualina 2009

Pink Sugar Sensual Aquolina FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Black currant, tangerine, bergamot
Heart: Orange blossom, jasmine petals, tiare
Base: Vanilla, black sugar, sandalwood

I do know that the original Pink Sugar is a guilty pleasure for a lot of you. You’ve got a bottle or maybe a rollerball hidden on your perfume shelf and you never tell anyone about it for fear that’ll revoke your perfumista card. I received Pink Sugar Sensual as a gift. I like the original but don’t own it. I had hopes for Pink Sugar Sensual as being more grown up and less candy floss but my idea of sensual is not what this perfume is.

Bright, juicy sugar crusted mandarins, oranges, clementines…pick any orange citrus fruit. It’s in here. Citrus isn’t sensual to me but let’s see where this goes.

Not very far actually. The citrus and some other fruity notes linger a bit. It’s sweet and I don’t think there’s much that’s natural in this bottle so to sniff my skin up close it’s a bit harsh to me. Better to sniff from a safe distance. It’s not bad just not something I’d want to cuddle up with.

Pink Sugar Sensual by Aquolina Sugar_cubes WikiMediaWikiMedia

I know there are floral notes because the list tells me there are but honestly all I get is fruit. Eventually the vanilla becomes noticeable and tempers the juiciness. I don’t smell the licorice which others have mentioned in other reviews. I’m assuming that’s what the black sugar note might be but I really have to force myself to find any licorice.

I know I’m not making a strong case for this one. It’s really not terrible but in my opinion the original is more sensual than Sensual. If you’re looking for a sweet citrusy scent that is cheap and cheerful give this one a try. If you’ve got a fruity perfume like one of the Britney Spears or Taylor Swift perfumes you probably don’t need this. I’ll also add that at no point during wearing this do I feel sensual or want to writhe around on the floor in my unmentionables like the model in the ad. I’m sure the husband would be thrilled if it worked like that. Sadly, as I’m writing this I’m in my pajamas, bathrobe, and slippers, none of which match, and I’m not feeling the least bit sexy or sensual. Warm and comfy? Yes. Sensual? Not so much. We both agree that at least I smell reasonably good compared to some other things I’ve sampled recently.

Pink Sugar Sensual by Aquolina Greyerbaby FlickrPixabay

Further reading: Now Smell This
FragranceNet has $28/100ml before Coupon

Have you tried this? Do you like Pink Sugar? Confess. I won’t judge.

Hugs
Poodle

Une Nuit a Bali: Fragrance + Dry Oil

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Post by TinaG

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Hello APJ! If you haven’t heard about the French beauty company Une Nuit á Bali, I’d like to give you a quick overview teaser of two of their products.

Une Nuit a Bali

I was intrigued by Une Nuit á Bali when I read a ÇaFleureBon review from the Esxence exhibition, March 2015. The products sounded lush and lovely, so I checked out their website and ordered sample packs of their 100% natural body products and testers of three of their fragrances – Fleur de Fleurs, Mr. Vetiver, and Suma Oriental.

Une Nuit a Bali: Fleur de Fleurs

Une Nuit a Bali Fleur de Fleurs FragranticaFragrantica

Une Nuit á Bali gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, saffron, grapefruit
Heart: Floral Jasmine, ylang-ylang, tuberose, glycine
Base: Benzoin Tears, sandalwood, vanilla, amber, oud wood

Fleur de Fleurs opens with a warm fresh jasmine and ylang-ylang, with a touch of milky tuberose and wispy citrus. Silage is a metre or more at this stage and it has garnered compliments from co-workers. As it settles the ylang-ylang becomes increasingly indolic and thicker. It reminds me of a summer day, when the humidity is high and wind absent, when thick blooming floral fragrances pool into invisible scented clouds.

At 2 hours the florals very gently and seductively meld together, the citrus notes retreat to reveal subtle dry woods with hints of amber and vanilla. Over the next few hours the fragrance softly fades leaving a sensual woody skin scent.

Une Nuit a Bali the-dry-body-oil Une Nuit a BaliUne Nuit á Bali

Une Nuit a Bali: The Dry Oil (L’Huile Sèche)

This dry oil is stunning. The jasmine note in this is so realistic. It is not simply ‘jasmine”, but very specifically, I clearly get the image in my head of the green moist jasmine stamen in the centre of the flower, and it is beautiful and exciting. The oil itself is easy to apply, soaks straight in, and does not leave any residue. The scent softens after about ½ hour and I find more of a ‘frangipani’ scent on my skin.

I’ve since discovered selected products of this range are available in Australia through Mecca Cosmetica online but there isn’t much opportunity for testing in store. If you were interested in testing, try the Une Nuit á Bali website. I found ordering samples through the web site very easy, reasonably priced, quick and they were thoughtfully presented.

Fleur des Fleurs Une Nuit a BaliUne Nuit á Bali

Have you ever brought a fragrance product after reading a review? What did you pick up?

Tina G xx

AF Beauty Travels to Singapore

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Post by AF Beauty

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I have been lucky enough to travel to the U.K. this December and as part of that trip I stopped over in Singapore. Although I would tell anyone this was to try and avoid the jet lag and to break up the ridiculous flight (and that is true,) the other part of the reason is because Singapore has such diverse and numerous shops, especially in the beauty department!

AF Beauty Travels to Singapore

Laneige cushion foundation

For a while, I have had my eye on the Korean brand Laneige, they are well known for their cushion foundation, but I had had such an average experience with the Lancôme version of the same, that I wasn’t sure that I wanted to risk spending money on the Laneige version – but I was enticed into the store when I saw their beauty app on their iPad in store.

It is called Beauty Mirror. It’s probably the best version of this sort of app I’ve ever seen, it does actually work like you’re applying makeup realistically, so much so that I probably thought I looked relatively decent by the time I finished, but really that was just what I’d “applied” In the app!! I was very impressed how accurate the colours were and how realistically they applied to my photo. I’d feel a lot more comfortable to take the risk to order colour specific items online with this app. The downside of the app (depending on your location or willingness to create another iTunes account) is that I’ve only found the app in the Korean iTunes Store. Still, I will probably make the effort to get it if I want to order more Laneige products.

Anyway, back to the actual goodies, after having a okay with the app I estimated the best colour foundation for me and asked the SA for some help. She offered me a slightly different colour, based on the fact that my skin is Caucasian as opposed to Asian, but reverted back to the original app recommendation which was a perfect match. They offer the same shades in three different formulations and she led me down the path of getting the anti ageing version, which I read as, “Lady you look old!”

Laneige Water Bank Moisture Cream_EX

Anyway, insults aside, I have being using the product now for about a week, have used it as regular morning makeup and after the gym and both have been very successful. The coverage is considerably better than the Lancôme version I previously tried and I feel I could wear it comfortably without powder for a more natural look, or add powder for something more long lasting and set. That SA did advise me that the anti ageing version had more coverage than the original version, so perhaps that is part of the better outcome here.

Overall I’m super pleased I took the gamble on the product and now better understand the hype around these products. I’m planning to do some research on other Laneige products so I’m better prepared for my next travels and will know what to stock up on!

What are your key travel purchases?? Being perfumistas, do you even have time to browse the other items in duty free or are you caught only by what’s on offer in the perfume aisle?!!

Dark by Julien Rasquinet for Andrea Maack 2011

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Post by Portia

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Hiya Frag Heads!

I am surprised constantly that there isn’t more noise online about Andrea Maack and her fragrances. Early on there was some chatter about them being derivative but I’m yet to discover a scent that smells markedly like an Andrea Maack. Of course there are notes that correspond, even accords, but the whole fragrances I find distinctive enough to set them well apart even from their most obvious comparisons. Maacks are sometimes challenging and yet ever so wearable. comfortably weird. Yes, I know I’m in the minority here.

Dark by Andrea Maack 2011

Dark by Julien Rasquinet

Dark Andrea Maack FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Petitgrain, mandarin orange, pink pepper, lemon tree, aldehydes, rose, metallic notes, Granny Smith apple, amber, African orange flower, Virginia cedar

This is a sample that I’ve had for a while and keep getting out, spritzing and putting away.

Dark. Sparkling sweet citrus and cold water in opening. Reminding me of a zinging, sharp, dew spotted early morning at sunrise in very early spring. There is a feeling of briskness and action which quickly morphs into fruity (apple and melon?) rose and a cold metal spoon in your mouth. Or the first sip from an icy cold can of fizzy drink. The fruits become more prominent towards the heart, they are just out of the fridge, and the rose becomes air conditioned. This is a modern metallic radiant rose. The most close resemblance from my memory (not perfect) is modern Eternity Woman by Calvin Klein, yet nothing like it.

Dark Andrea Maack cold drink can gepharts3d pixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

After some time Dark gets a Pez/sherbet feeling that makes me smile, especially floating over the metal rose from Mars.Cruising into dry down the rose becomes colder like it’s frozen solid but curiously warmth surrounds it, the amber brings in a hint of warm resins that take us to the end.

I can see how anyone who wants their fragrant ride to be smooth and cohesive with the department store finish would find Dark disjointed and surreal but that’s one of the things that I really enjoy. If wearing fragrance for my own pleasure then Dark is an excellent choice and it’s not so powerful that people around you will be questioning or freaked out, though longevity is nuclear.

Quietly and subversively weird, perfect.

Dark Andrea Maack Frozen Rose Adrian Byrne FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Further reading: Bonkers About Perfume
LuckyScent has $135/50ml + Samples
Libertine has $185/50ml

Do you have a favourite under rated house? Which one and why?
Portia xx

Rose Musc by Laurie Erickson for Sonoma Scent Studio 2007

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Post by Portia

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Hi there APJ,

Reading about Rose Musc on the Perfume Posse made me laugh, Tom is hilarious. There are a LOT of rose fragrances in my collection, from my all time favourite rose Mohur by Neela Vermeire Creations through a bunch of Parfum des Rosines, a few oudh/rose frags, and some from independents, designer and niche. There’s something about roses that call to my soul. The ultra smooth, modern sheer heft of Voleur de Roses by L’Artisan Parfumeur to the dark, bitter, unfettered and pulsating Ballets Rouges by Olympic Orchids, I love them all. So if Tom rates it, though not for him, then I thought I better gran some and get it on me.

Rose Musc by Sonoma Scent Studio 2007

Rose Musc by Laurie Erickson

 

Rose Musc Sonoma Scent Studio FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Sonoma Scent Studio gives these featured accords:
Rose petals, amber, labdanum absolute, skin musks

Roses, Roses, Roses! big a full and fabulous. Blooming dark pink roses with their sweet and spicy, tart apple and plum skin overtones. You know the ones? Maybe 7 to a stem, fabulously opulent looking, as big as your hand and when you touch their open flowers the petals float off the bush leaving a carpet of cerise, as if the bush has been bleeding. Rose Musc is all of that and more.

The labdanum/amber warms the rose and bolsters it, keeping it vegetally sweet and engaging. Where Ballets Rouges is darkened by twig, branch and humus Rose Musc is lighter, smoother and more regal. You still know you are wearing an independent perfumers fragrance, there is none of the pasty and pastel hum drum of the department store designer, nor the delicately overproduced loveliness of the designer prive lines. Rose Musc is adamant, strident and over the top gorgeousness, an oldie-worldie rose that has a Mucha picture as its focus. I chose another Mucha picture that I think captures the soul of Rose Musc even better.

Rose Musc Sonoma Scent Studio Alfons_Mucha_-_1898_-_Dance WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

Laurie Erickson at Sonoma Scent Studio writes: …I wanted Rose Musc to be a true rose softened by a powdery musk base. I like the innocence of the rose paired with the dusky labdanum and musk. The blend has a very light touch of animalic notes.

Further reading: Perfume Posse and Scent of Abricots
Sonoma Scent Studio has $75/34ml and very reasonable samples

Which is your rose? Have you tried any of the Sonoma Scent Studio work?
Portia xx

Vintage joy Parfum by Jean Patou: Live Video Sniff

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Post by Portia

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Hey Happy Huffers,

Vintage joy Parfum by Jean Patou

Live Video Sniff

Joy vintage parfum Jean Patou home 2015

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Tuberose, rose, ylang-ylang, aldehydes, peach, green notes
Heart: Jasmine, iris root, Bulgarian rose, lily of the valley, orchid
Base: Musk, sandalwood, civet

Joy is one of my favourites and I scour the web for bottles of it. We always do opening ceremony videos because some of them are fakes and we need to get refunds. We have had a couple of fakes this summer already. These counterfeiters do an excellent job too, it’s not till you spray the juice that you know.

Scotty and I on the lanai enjoying summer and smelling FABULOUS!