Mure et Musc by Jean-Francois Laporte for L’Artisan Parfumeur 1978

July 14, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 20 Comments

Post by Portia

Hey Hey Fragrant Family,

Jean-Francois Laporte founded L’Artisan Parfumeur in 1976. It was among the first of the niche lines, maybe even the first, and it started producing in 1978 with some very interesting fragrances that many of you will either have tried or own: L’Eau d’Ambre and Mure et Musc are both still available and the 1979 introduction L’Eau d’Navigateur was only discontinued this year. Let’s have a look today at what is known as the first ever blackberry fragrance.

Mure et Musc by L’Artisan Parfumeur 1978

Mure et Musc by Jean-Francois Laporte

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Amalfi lemon, orange, mandarin orange, basil
Heart: Blackberry, red berries
Base: Musk, oakmoss

1978 was a very good year, it’s the year that my partner Jin came into the world. No matter what happens with us over time I will always have a soft spot for 1978 because of him.

So Mure & Musc, the first time a perfumer decided to add a sparkling fruity aspect to musk, what a weird choice to add screechy, urinous blackberry to something as softly animal as musk. Yet, it’s a perfect pairing and one that has become more and more common over time, basically fruity musks are all you can buy in the laundry department nowadays.

Here we get a shimmering sparkle of fresh citrus with a soft creamy herbaceousness that leads to slightly squeaky and zingy berries. Already from the very first minute the musks play a fluffy soft and grounding powderiness that keeps Mure et Musk on the dry side. Considering how sheer and delicate the whole fragrance is the lasting power is excellent, especially if you happen to spritz your top as well as yourself. Dry down is furry and friendly, people write about woodsiness, I get very little of that. It’s all cuddly musks and oakmoss to dry down with the merest sweetening from the fruit.

I wish I’d thought to bring Mure et Musc on our trip to Tasmania last weekend, it would have been the perfect scent for the cool temps outside when we stayed in the low Head Lighthouse Keepers Cottage right on the bluff overlooking the meeting of Bass Straight and the Tamar River. We loved it with my childhood mate Evie and her daughter Lola. You can see I’m wearing the Green Beanie made for me by Vanessa at Bonkers About Perfume, best investment I ever made. Kept my head warm and so soft, it also is made exactly for my head so no slippage or creeping. Thanks Vanessa. She’ll make you one too, very reasonable price, pop on over to her blog & ask.

My Mure et Musc is from vintage 15ml(?) manufacturers sample spritzers with the original curvy inverted cone lids, I’m not sure how the modern one fares.

Further reading: Bois et Jasmin and Olfactoria’s Travels
Libertine Parfumerie has $186/100ml with FREE Australian Postage
Surrender To Chance has samples of the EdC starting at $6/ml

Mure et Musc GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 1 winner who will receive:
1 x 15ml manufacturers samples of Mure et Musc
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Tell us a L’Artisan fragrance that you love, or why you’d like to try Mure et Musc

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Saturday 16th July 2016 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Wednesday 20th July 2016 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Ikat Jasmine by Firmenich for Aerin 2013

July 13, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 32 Comments

Post by Poodle

Hey there fragrant juice junkies!

OMG! Jasmine! I love a good jasmine. You know those perfumes that are heavy on the jasmine that just make you swoon almost immediately? That almost narcotic blast of white floral that almost blinds you with intensity upon first sniff. A jasmine that makes your eyes roll back in your head as you are overcome by the indoles. A jasmine so intoxicating you’re convinced that you are that hot, sexy someone that you see in the perfume ads.

Well…sorry, this definitely is NOT that jasmine.

Ikat Jasmine by Aerin 2013

Ikat Jasmine by Firmenich

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Egyptian jasmine,jasmine sambac, tuberose, honeysuckle, sandalwood

Ikat Jasmine is described as “the embodiment of the modern woman”. That right there should give you a clue that this is not that kind of jasmine. It’s clean, fresh, terribly pretty and most definitely unoffensive. Very PC. It’s jasmine that has been washed, dried, plucked, and powdered. It’s all buttoned up to the neck. There’s no cleavage or too much leg showing. No dirty or exciting bits at all.

Wikipedia

Even at the start it’s a clean jasmine with some hint of citrus although it’s not listed in the notes. It’s settles in quickly and becomes somewhat office friendly on my skin. Within 30 minutes I’m barely able to smell it unless I get up close and sniff. If I wore this I don’t think anyone would think I’m wearing perfume. On me it smells more like a whiff of whatever functional scents I had used; shampoo, lotion, fabric softener, soap. It’s so soft that I can’t even pick it apart note-wise. It is what it is from start to finish. A clean whitish floral with a slight powdery aspect that fades to a faintly chemical wood base.

In an hour or so it’s basically gone on my scent eating skin. You may have different results.

Pixabay

I know that this will be the perfect jasmine for many people who like that scrubbed up type of scent. Ikat Jasmine is just not my cup of tea. It’s not a bad perfume but I need a little more oomph and a bit more than 45 minutes of wear time to get excited. It might be nice as a candle scent. Beyond that I can’t really think of a thing to say about it. *sigh*

Further reading: Now Smell This
Estee Lauder has $165/50ml and FREE SHIPPING in Australia

So, what jasmine perfumes make you swoon? Or maybe, what perfumes bored you to tears? Oh, and don’t be upset if someone hates a favorite of yours. It happens. One man’s trash is another’s treasure even in perfumeland.

Until next time, my sweets.
Big hugs
Poodle

Opus X by Pierre Negrin + Annick Menardo for Amouage 2016

July 12, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 22 Comments

Post by Val the Cookie Queen

Hey Hip APJ Cats.

Ever taken acid? When you place it in your mouth there is a distinct metallic sensation and a little apprehension for what is about to come. Are you familiar with (electric) Kool-Aid Magic Twists? Normally Kool-Aid dissolves to match the colour of the packaging. The Twists don´t. You empty the green powder into the jug, add water and it turns red. Pretty cool, and weird if you don´t expect it.

Amouage Opus X by Amouage 2016

Amouage Opus X by Pierre Negrin + Annick Menardo

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: May rose, red rose, rose
Heart: Geranium, leather, varnish accord
Base: Metallic notes, laotian oud, ylang-ylang, ambrarome

“”Everyone smiles as you drift past the flowers, that grow so incredibly high.” (The Beatles)

Opus X erupts with droplets of green and an aluminium red blast, roses dripping in metal and varnish. Your consciousness needs a little time.

“Turn off your mind, relax and float down stream …” (The Beatles) The cacophony of notes smooth down into reds, cerise to crimson, cherry,
scarlet and vermilion. Layers of roses, the deeper you look into the mirror the more you see. The hovering silvered sheen prevents you
from going to deep. Never look into the mirror for too long. The Opus X meanders into a gentler territory softening up with leather, oud, and the
duskiness of a pile of rose petals. Stellar longevity. Bewitching.

The Rose with Kaleidoscope Eyes.

Flickr

Further reading: Chemist In A Bottle and Candy Perfume Boy
Libertine Parfumerie has $487/100ml with FREE AUSTRALIAN POSTAGE
First In Fragrance has €320/100ml

From First In Fragrance: The wealth of rose facets in Opus X reflects all the stories that the red violin experiences on its journey through the centuries. The centifolia pluck the first string of the violin and play a magnificent, radiant and sensual melody. From the second string a dark rose chord resounds, which lends mystery to the composition. On the third string, rosebuds play a lyrical ode full of brilliance and luminosity. The rose oxide lies like a fine veil upon the composition, culminating in a vigorous and multi-faceted rose. In different pitches, it shows all its perfect beauty and its olfactory richness. The sensual texture of leather, woven with fine geranium notes, accompanies and intensifies the fragrance. The final impression of this woody-floral composition is created by the warmth of ambrarome, the seductive aroma of ylang-ylang and the elegance of Laotian Oud. Opus X lives through its contrasts of light and darkness, innocence and seduction.

The Red Violin Official Trailer – Carlo Cecchi Movie (1998)

“The ´60s aren`t over; they won´t be over until the Fat Lady gets high.” Ken Kesey

Do you see perfume as a drug?

Groovy Bussis
CQ

Still Life in Rio by Dora Baghriche for Olfactive Studio 2016

July 11, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 12 Comments

Post by TinaG

Hi there APJ!

Friday 5 August 2016 marks the beginning of the XXXI Olympiad, with the start of the Olympic Games in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. The Summer Olympics being held in a city which is renowned for its celebrations and colourful festivals, wide open beaches, and friendly people. We have quite a large Brazilian contingent here in Sydney and whenever our paths cross I feel like I’ve been swept up into one large loud colourful party – It’s not optional! You must relax and have fun! Well, OK then…. 🙂

Still Life in Rio by Olfactive Studio 2016

Still Life in Rio by Dora Baghriche

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Yuzu, ginger, lemon, mint, mandarin orange
Heart: Pepper, black pepper, pink pepper, coconut milk
Base: Rum, copaiba balm, leather

On either side of the party you have the warm relaxed recovery times, lazy days by the beach enjoying the long sunsets, drinks and food. I feel that this is where Still Life in Rio fits in. As a fragrance, it is bright and invigorating. It opens with a burst of lemon pith and juice that is tart at first then warms with ginger and mandarin, with a touch of mint and a general milkiness (is that coconut?) behind it all. It’s a fragrance you want to wear on sun kissed and salty skin, the lemon taking centre stage for the first few hours. The ginger gets stronger by way of a ‘taste’ sensation on the back of my tongue, however I’m not sure that I pick up the peppers which are listed in the notes for this fragrance – the ginger is predominant as a spice.

After about 4 hours I find that I’m really enjoying the mandarin, and realise that the whole effect of the fragrance is like a mandarin caprioska, juicy and refreshing. I don’t find there’s much development in the fragrance after this but it has a good longevity of at least 10 hours, and I’ve noticed the fragrance wafting around me as I’ve been going about my day so it has a decent sillage. A great summer scent, light and easy wearing. You might head toward this if you enjoy the freshness of a cologne but enjoy the sophistication & longevity of a well-crafted perfume.

Olfactive Studio

I remember the Sydney Olympics back in 2000, it was such a fabulous time! A relaxed happy party atmosphere, the trains actually ran to their timetables (!!!), and you could stop and chat to anyone on the street with a smile and a laugh. Really great times. We had a ball. And although the world is a different place now to then I sincerely wish the best of everything that the Olympics holds for Rio.

Further reading: Scented Hound and Colognoisseur
First In Fragrance has €90/50ml + Samples
Libertine Parfumerie will have it in stock soon for the Aussies.

What fragrances do you wear in summer to beat the heat?

Till next time, Tina G. xx

FLANKERS!! Let’s Talk About Flankers

July 10, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 16 Comments

Post by Anne-Marie

Howdy folks, it’s Anne-Marie, here to chat about the issues that matter in this crazy perfume-y world. Today, it’s … yay! Flankers!

FLANKERS!! Let’s Talk About Flankers

A flanker, as I’m sure you know, is a perfume which ‘flanks’ a pillar release. It perpetuates the name of the original but otherwise they may have little in common. Often the flanker has much less money spent on it and will be chucked at the market to see if it sticks.
It tends to be a given that flankers are not worthy of the perfume lover’s attention, but here are some which I have enjoyed.

Stylefrizz

Chanel No 5 Eau Premiere (2007, and re-packaged in 2015). The first flanker (as opposed to different form or concentration) to the 1921 classic. It is beautiful variant, less aldehydic than No 5: sunshiny, and with a lovely lemony top note. A perfect all-occasion fragrance. Apparently sales were disappointing, and we have a new flanker to look forward to this year, No 5 L’Eau.

Shalimar: what can you say without making Shalimar lovers’ blood boil? Well, I love Eau de Shalimar (2008/9) and Shalimar Cologne Eau de Toilette (2015). The lime top-note in EdS is admittedly a little weird, but I find the fragrance very relaxing overall. The Cologne? Oh my – gorgeous! Lemon instead of lime, very bright but beautifully blended with vanilla. It’s addictive but not (for me at least) especially foodie. Neither these two flankers, nor any of the Shalimar flankers as far as I know, are as heavy on the smoke and leather as the original.

CHANEL

I bought Chanel No 19 Poudre (2011) when it came out but sold it eventually. The iris is superb, the powder is not stifling, and the fragrance wears like a silk slip. But the white musk in the base seems timid and produces a lack-lustre result overall.

Sometimes a flanker stands confidently next to its pillar. Hermes L’Ambre des Merveilles (2012) trounces the original Eau de Merveilles for me, perhaps because I simply have trouble smelling the Eau. L’Ambre has a miraculous floaty character: sweet but cool, warm but restrained. The only amber I truly love.

Fragrantica

I’ve reviewed Hermes Kelly Caleche (2007) on APJ, so will just note here that it is a cool, elegant leather with little resemblance to the original Caleche, which I never loved. I’ll come right out with it: Caleche smells dated to me, and too short-lived to bother with.

Finally, Lancome Magie Noire (1978). Yes, it’s a flanker to Magie, released in 1950 and re-released briefly in the mid-2000s. Magie was a classic amber: good but not great. Magie Noire is devastating. A witchy mix of chypre and oriental. Dark, sensual and animalic, it’s haunting if worn lightly, but all-consuming if spritzed heavily. You might pay for this one with your soul.

Over to you! There are LOADS of flankers that you have tried and I haven’t. The good, the bad and the forgettable. Do share!
Until next time, happy spritzing!

What Frags Have You Excited 2016?

July 9, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 23 Comments

Post by Portia

Hey Hey Perfumeland,

It’s July! We have smelled half a year already. What is new that’s grabbed you by the nostrils and won’t let go? There have been a slew of new releases and frankly I’m a little bit overwhelmed so I would love to hear your enthusiastic two thumbs up frags for 2016 so far? Even a mildly interested one thumb not down will do. What should I definitely try and get my sniff on in the near future?

What Frags Have You Excited 2016?

As is so often the case I have a couple that you might like….

Fragrantica

Ambre Eternal by Thierry Wasser for Guerlain 2016: I can’t believe that Ambre Eternal didn’t come home from Europe with me this year. We tried it in 3 different stores. Loved it every time and now I wish its warm, sweet, woodsy, driftwood, creamy amber floralcy was here in my home to spritz with abandon. GRRRR!

Fragrantica

Equinox Bloom by Olivier Cresp for Penhaligon’s 2016: For lovers of interesting floral scent then here is a floral, green gourmand. I really enjoyed my wearings of Equinox Bloom and was really sad to see my decant empty. I haven’t bought a bottle because I just couldn’t see myself reaching for it over my favourite greens: Niki de Saint Phalle, Futur and CHANEL No 19.

Fragrantica

Indian Wood by Pierre Guillaume for Perfumerie Generale 2016: Bright green opening that leads through a creamy, spicy, milky, herbal heart to a sweet woods dry down. So wearable, yet Indian Wood has not been universally adored by the critics. To be honest I can’t think why. Yes, I have a bottle. YUMMY!

Fragrantica

Opus X by Pierre Negrin and Annick Menardo for Amouage 2016: Metallic rose dripping in blood, Opus X is really unusual. The opening and heart are all about this freaky mechanical rose, it’s beautiful and disturbing. As we make our way through the heart it changes, never losing sight of the rose yet the whole fragrance warms and becomes absolutely glorious. Lasts for days. Amazing. I got my bottle from Libertine Parfumerie

Fragrantica

Promenade des Anglaise by Thierry Wasser for Guerlain 2016: Bought at the brand new Rue de Saint Honore Guerlain Store the week it opened! Starts out sweetly fruity and ends up a fluffy cool powder bomb. Fun, flirty, effervescent and so easy to wear. Totally spritz & go sweetness.

Best way to try most of these is to trot over to Surrender To Chance and grab some samples.

So, what have you been buying in 2016? Or even trying? Where should I put my sniffer next?
Portia xx

Le Musc Et La Peau by Pierre Guillaume for Parfumerie Generale 2016

July 7, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 15 Comments

Post by Portia

Hi there Lovers of NEW!

Pierre Guillaume is talented, most people who know frags agree. He makes some beautiful, interesting, sometimes challenging but almost always engaging fragrances. When he sends me something new to try I get a physical thrill of excitement. Not so long ago he sent me a sample of his newest release Le Musc Et La Peau, The Milk of Musk.

Don’t you love that gorgeous face? What a handsome man, and so freaking talented!

Le Musc Et La Peau by Parfumerie Generale 2016

Le Musc Et La Peau by Pierre Guillaume

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Bergamot, ambroxan, musk, aldehydes, rosemary, ylang-ylang, sandalwood, cedar, tonka bean

A rework of PG04 Musc Maori, purely built with aromachemicals, and designed to create a better smelling you without smelling like you’re wearing a perfume. It’s an interesting concept, kind of toyed with already in the Molecule range and by JHaG’s Anyway. Pierre’s idea is to isolate the milky musk skin scent from Musc Maori and bring it to life so you can smell fresh, alive, healthy and delicious at all times. A formidable weapon in the arts of seduction I can imagine, you know that moment when you first rip someone’s clothes off and you drink in their bodies scent? This could be a game changer.

It took 3 wears though for me to able to smell it for more than 15 minutes. It’s like I had to train my nose to smell what’s there and even now I’m unsure if I am getting the whole story.

I bet you want to try it…..

Further reading: BL’eauOG and Ca Fleure Bon
LuckyScent has $125/50ml + Samples