Fragrance

Calandre by Paco Rabanne: LIVE Video Sniff

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Post by Portia

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Well Hello Vintage Vamps,

Today Scott and I finally open a fragrance that has been in my collection for years. It has winked at me from the recesses of the perfume cupboard and sometimes i grabbed it out only to put it back away. I know, I’m a crazy frag hoarder.

Calandre by Paco Rabanne 1969

Calandre by Michel Hy

 

Calandre Paco Rabanne FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Leaf green, Aldehydes, Bergamot
Heart: Rose, Lily-of-the-valley, Geranium, Jasmine, Iris
Base: Sandalwood, Vetiver, Oakmoss, Musk, Ambergris

Amber Oud by Calice Becker for By Kilian 2011

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Post by Portia

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Hi there Fragrant Fiends,

Oudh. The 21st centuries answer to IFRA compliant base notes. It is the ubiquitous fully fragrant, dark, deep and dirty base note giving a solid grounding to an industry that has lost its regular, centuries old palette to drug companies greed: the modern multinational fragrance component creators. I’m sure it’s a more complex problem and that I’ve missed most of the memos but from the other side of the world this is how it looks to me. Sorry, end rant.

So, I tried Amber Oud around the time it came out and could not justify the spend to myself at that time, 5 years on I wondered if my thoughts had changed with the ever increasing price of fragrance. Was $395 a reasonable price for something I remember being so lovely, and reading the other reviews written at that time it was as special as I remember and many others were happy to drop that kind of cash on it.

Amber Oud by By Kilian 2011

Amber Oud by Calice Becker

Amber Oud By Kilian FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Amber, Benzoin, Spices, Oud, Vanilla, Cedar

Softest, plushest, tamest oudh ever. So gorgeously rolled and folded into the spicy vanilla/amber bakery and only held slightly dry by the crispness of cedar. Warm and enveloping I can see why even the oudh haters love Amber Oud so. Lightly medicinal, a tiny hint of band aid and only the merest waft of poop Amber Oud is almost a gourmand oudh, oudh light or kiddies oudh. So velvet soft and cozy, as close to a warm beige cashmere lounge throw as oudh can be. Delightful, sweet, sensational and gorgeous: the words that jump into my head while sniffing are not the usual ones associated with oudh in my experience. The By Kilian crew have created the most fabulous general public oudh and it makes me smile.

The amber is sweet and caramelised, lit from within and effulgent Ambre Oud grows more and more lovely. Very reminiscent through its heart of the L’Artisan L’Eau d’Ambre, a similar warmth and purity. It stays pretty and buoyant and luxurious, the most expensive caramel toffee.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Here’s my quandry: yes this is lovely. It’s incredibly wearable, luxurious and gorgeous, no doubt about it. When I press my nose to my fragrant spots it is utterly swoon worthy. When it’s not so close, when I’m catching whiffs of it as I go about my day, Amber Oud is not a lot better than 50 other ambers on the market. From Queen Latifah through L’Artisan, Nicolai to Giorgio Armani: yes they are all different but at arms length the differences are not so pronounced, yummy amber. Is Amber Oud at $395 from $370-$150 better? Is it really? I hang my head in shame because for me the answer is no…. I’ll put my decant away and try it again one day, maybe then?

Amber Oud By Kilian red No Entry Pixabay

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and Bois de Jasmin
LuckyScent has $395/50ml
Surrender To Chance has $5/0.5ml

What is your cut off point? Do you have one? How important is having something in your collection?
Portia xx

 

 

 

Pink Sugar Sensual by Aqualina 2009

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Post by Poodle

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Definition of Sensual: of or arousing gratification of the senses and physical, especially sexual, pleasure

I always think Pink Sugar is one of those perfumes whose target audience is the younger crowd, I’m talking tweens and teens. It seems odd to me to have a flanker called Sensual for that demographic but hey, what do I know?

Pink Sugar Sensual by Aqualina 2009

Pink Sugar Sensual Aquolina FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Black currant, tangerine, bergamot
Heart: Orange blossom, jasmine petals, tiare
Base: Vanilla, black sugar, sandalwood

I do know that the original Pink Sugar is a guilty pleasure for a lot of you. You’ve got a bottle or maybe a rollerball hidden on your perfume shelf and you never tell anyone about it for fear that’ll revoke your perfumista card. I received Pink Sugar Sensual as a gift. I like the original but don’t own it. I had hopes for Pink Sugar Sensual as being more grown up and less candy floss but my idea of sensual is not what this perfume is.

Bright, juicy sugar crusted mandarins, oranges, clementines…pick any orange citrus fruit. It’s in here. Citrus isn’t sensual to me but let’s see where this goes.

Not very far actually. The citrus and some other fruity notes linger a bit. It’s sweet and I don’t think there’s much that’s natural in this bottle so to sniff my skin up close it’s a bit harsh to me. Better to sniff from a safe distance. It’s not bad just not something I’d want to cuddle up with.

Pink Sugar Sensual by Aquolina Sugar_cubes WikiMediaWikiMedia

I know there are floral notes because the list tells me there are but honestly all I get is fruit. Eventually the vanilla becomes noticeable and tempers the juiciness. I don’t smell the licorice which others have mentioned in other reviews. I’m assuming that’s what the black sugar note might be but I really have to force myself to find any licorice.

I know I’m not making a strong case for this one. It’s really not terrible but in my opinion the original is more sensual than Sensual. If you’re looking for a sweet citrusy scent that is cheap and cheerful give this one a try. If you’ve got a fruity perfume like one of the Britney Spears or Taylor Swift perfumes you probably don’t need this. I’ll also add that at no point during wearing this do I feel sensual or want to writhe around on the floor in my unmentionables like the model in the ad. I’m sure the husband would be thrilled if it worked like that. Sadly, as I’m writing this I’m in my pajamas, bathrobe, and slippers, none of which match, and I’m not feeling the least bit sexy or sensual. Warm and comfy? Yes. Sensual? Not so much. We both agree that at least I smell reasonably good compared to some other things I’ve sampled recently.

Pink Sugar Sensual by Aquolina Greyerbaby FlickrPixabay

Further reading: Now Smell This
FragranceNet has $28/100ml before Coupon

Have you tried this? Do you like Pink Sugar? Confess. I won’t judge.

Hugs
Poodle

Perfume Favourites & Chasing Dreams

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Post by BlondesWunder

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Hi APJ,
Mum´s in Vienna with Portia today so you are stuck with me.

Favourite Frags

Currently I use about five perfumes. Anymore than that and i couldn’t make a decision of what to use each morning/evening. Before i started to care about perfume, I clearly remember my Mom buying a Bvlgari perfume and thinking how ridiculous it was to spend that much money on a bottle of “smell good”. Does anyone really care about how you smell?!

Well how wrong I was! Several years later I fell down the rabbit hole. Perfume is for me first!
It’s not only the smell, it is the story and feeling that comes with it.

I prefer to use perfumes in cooler weather and so wear more in the winter season.

Right now I sport:

La Fille de Berlin Serge Lutens Fragrantica
Fragrantica

Serge Lutens. La Fille de Berlin

Vero Profumo. Rubj Extrait

Chanel N°5 Eau Premiere Chanel fragranticaFragrantica

Chanel. Eau Premiere No 5

Elixir Charnel Gourmand Coquin Guerlain FragranticaFragrantica

Guerlain. Gourmande Coquin

Neela Vermeire Creations. Pichola

Lolita Lempicka de Lolita Lempicka (I have very little left, does anyone have some for me? I have been through five bottles since I was 14 years old. It was my first perfume.)

MAC Ed Schipul MAC makeup FlickrFlickr

Chasing Dreams

My dream since childhood is to work with makeup. A few weeks ago Sandra from Vienna took me into a MAC store and made me ask if they were hiring people. I got a business card.

To my surprise they called a week later and invited me to their recruitment day in Vienna. I was asked to bring my own model and brushes. I was the only unqualified person out of seven.

Within a week I received a call offering me a full-time job in the stand alone MAC store in Salzburg. Needless to say I burst into tears.

Blondes Wunder Jan 2016Blondes Wunder by Val

I am beyond excited and of course a little nervous, I can not believe they chose me!

I will keep you updated.

Love xoxo BlondesWunder

Une Nuit a Bali: Fragrance + Dry Oil

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Post by TinaG

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Hello APJ! If you haven’t heard about the French beauty company Une Nuit á Bali, I’d like to give you a quick overview teaser of two of their products.

Une Nuit a Bali

I was intrigued by Une Nuit á Bali when I read a ÇaFleureBon review from the Esxence exhibition, March 2015. The products sounded lush and lovely, so I checked out their website and ordered sample packs of their 100% natural body products and testers of three of their fragrances – Fleur de Fleurs, Mr. Vetiver, and Suma Oriental.

Une Nuit a Bali: Fleur de Fleurs

Une Nuit a Bali Fleur de Fleurs FragranticaFragrantica

Une Nuit á Bali gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, saffron, grapefruit
Heart: Floral Jasmine, ylang-ylang, tuberose, glycine
Base: Benzoin Tears, sandalwood, vanilla, amber, oud wood

Fleur de Fleurs opens with a warm fresh jasmine and ylang-ylang, with a touch of milky tuberose and wispy citrus. Silage is a metre or more at this stage and it has garnered compliments from co-workers. As it settles the ylang-ylang becomes increasingly indolic and thicker. It reminds me of a summer day, when the humidity is high and wind absent, when thick blooming floral fragrances pool into invisible scented clouds.

At 2 hours the florals very gently and seductively meld together, the citrus notes retreat to reveal subtle dry woods with hints of amber and vanilla. Over the next few hours the fragrance softly fades leaving a sensual woody skin scent.

Une Nuit a Bali the-dry-body-oil Une Nuit a BaliUne Nuit á Bali

Une Nuit a Bali: The Dry Oil (L’Huile Sèche)

This dry oil is stunning. The jasmine note in this is so realistic. It is not simply ‘jasmine”, but very specifically, I clearly get the image in my head of the green moist jasmine stamen in the centre of the flower, and it is beautiful and exciting. The oil itself is easy to apply, soaks straight in, and does not leave any residue. The scent softens after about ½ hour and I find more of a ‘frangipani’ scent on my skin.

I’ve since discovered selected products of this range are available in Australia through Mecca Cosmetica online but there isn’t much opportunity for testing in store. If you were interested in testing, try the Une Nuit á Bali website. I found ordering samples through the web site very easy, reasonably priced, quick and they were thoughtfully presented.

Fleur des Fleurs Une Nuit a BaliUne Nuit á Bali

Have you ever brought a fragrance product after reading a review? What did you pick up?

Tina G xx

Mark the Date Sydney: Perfume Expo October 2016

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Post by Suzanne R Banks

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Hi APJ,

Be part of the revolution of natural fragrance, beauty and sensuality!
Join us for the very first Artisan Botanical Perfume Expo being held in Sydney 2016.

Australasian Artisan Botanical Perfume Expo October 2016

Our aim is to demonstrate that these divine gifts from Mother Nature are more than beautiful aromatic plants. They hold a life force of their own that when inhaled transport you to another place and time. This alone gives them amazing healing properties, in addition to the beautiful and captivating scents they hold.

1914391_806902272786925_2941352110056640950_n

We are botanical perfumers from the southern hemisphere passionate about educating the world on the beauty of natural Botanical perfumes. Be part of the revolution of natural fragrance, beauty, sensuality, health and wellbeing.Our focus is Artisan Botanical Perfumery. We create truly beautiful and deeply evocative scents made with Mother Natures gifts and love. Every perfume has a story and is as unique as you.Using natural ingredients, essential oils and botanical extracts, we strive to give you the best botanical perfumes in the world.
Many of the essential oils and botanical extracts we use are from the most remote places in the world, grown and harvested under rigorous quality guidelines consistently preserving their finest essences. Let us not forget our distinctive and peerless Australian natives in some of the collections.
It’s going to be really fun and we’d love to see you there.
Suzanne R Banks

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Like our Facebook page to stay tuned for more info on the inaugural

Australasian Artisan Botanical Perfume Expo in Sydney, October 2016

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Check out my YouTube Channel too, thanks
Suzanne R Banks Blog
Suzanne R Banks Aromatherapy
Suzanne R Banks FaceBook

copyright suzanne

 

Revelation! My new book out now

Please check out my new book REVELATION! – Reveal Your Destiny with Essential Oils

Amazon USA      Amazon AU      Amazon UK

(Ed: Since this post was written the date has changed to October 2016. I have changed title and content to reflect this)

Dark by Julien Rasquinet for Andrea Maack 2011

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Post by Portia

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Hiya Frag Heads!

I am surprised constantly that there isn’t more noise online about Andrea Maack and her fragrances. Early on there was some chatter about them being derivative but I’m yet to discover a scent that smells markedly like an Andrea Maack. Of course there are notes that correspond, even accords, but the whole fragrances I find distinctive enough to set them well apart even from their most obvious comparisons. Maacks are sometimes challenging and yet ever so wearable. comfortably weird. Yes, I know I’m in the minority here.

Dark by Andrea Maack 2011

Dark by Julien Rasquinet

Dark Andrea Maack FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Petitgrain, mandarin orange, pink pepper, lemon tree, aldehydes, rose, metallic notes, Granny Smith apple, amber, African orange flower, Virginia cedar

This is a sample that I’ve had for a while and keep getting out, spritzing and putting away.

Dark. Sparkling sweet citrus and cold water in opening. Reminding me of a zinging, sharp, dew spotted early morning at sunrise in very early spring. There is a feeling of briskness and action which quickly morphs into fruity (apple and melon?) rose and a cold metal spoon in your mouth. Or the first sip from an icy cold can of fizzy drink. The fruits become more prominent towards the heart, they are just out of the fridge, and the rose becomes air conditioned. This is a modern metallic radiant rose. The most close resemblance from my memory (not perfect) is modern Eternity Woman by Calvin Klein, yet nothing like it.

Dark Andrea Maack cold drink can gepharts3d pixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

After some time Dark gets a Pez/sherbet feeling that makes me smile, especially floating over the metal rose from Mars.Cruising into dry down the rose becomes colder like it’s frozen solid but curiously warmth surrounds it, the amber brings in a hint of warm resins that take us to the end.

I can see how anyone who wants their fragrant ride to be smooth and cohesive with the department store finish would find Dark disjointed and surreal but that’s one of the things that I really enjoy. If wearing fragrance for my own pleasure then Dark is an excellent choice and it’s not so powerful that people around you will be questioning or freaked out, though longevity is nuclear.

Quietly and subversively weird, perfect.

Dark Andrea Maack Frozen Rose Adrian Byrne FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Further reading: Bonkers About Perfume
LuckyScent has $135/50ml + Samples
Libertine has $185/50ml

Do you have a favourite under rated house? Which one and why?
Portia xx

Rose Musc by Laurie Erickson for Sonoma Scent Studio 2007

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Post by Portia

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Hi there APJ,

Reading about Rose Musc on the Perfume Posse made me laugh, Tom is hilarious. There are a LOT of rose fragrances in my collection, from my all time favourite rose Mohur by Neela Vermeire Creations through a bunch of Parfum des Rosines, a few oudh/rose frags, and some from independents, designer and niche. There’s something about roses that call to my soul. The ultra smooth, modern sheer heft of Voleur de Roses by L’Artisan Parfumeur to the dark, bitter, unfettered and pulsating Ballets Rouges by Olympic Orchids, I love them all. So if Tom rates it, though not for him, then I thought I better gran some and get it on me.

Rose Musc by Sonoma Scent Studio 2007

Rose Musc by Laurie Erickson

 

Rose Musc Sonoma Scent Studio FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Sonoma Scent Studio gives these featured accords:
Rose petals, amber, labdanum absolute, skin musks

Roses, Roses, Roses! big a full and fabulous. Blooming dark pink roses with their sweet and spicy, tart apple and plum skin overtones. You know the ones? Maybe 7 to a stem, fabulously opulent looking, as big as your hand and when you touch their open flowers the petals float off the bush leaving a carpet of cerise, as if the bush has been bleeding. Rose Musc is all of that and more.

The labdanum/amber warms the rose and bolsters it, keeping it vegetally sweet and engaging. Where Ballets Rouges is darkened by twig, branch and humus Rose Musc is lighter, smoother and more regal. You still know you are wearing an independent perfumers fragrance, there is none of the pasty and pastel hum drum of the department store designer, nor the delicately overproduced loveliness of the designer prive lines. Rose Musc is adamant, strident and over the top gorgeousness, an oldie-worldie rose that has a Mucha picture as its focus. I chose another Mucha picture that I think captures the soul of Rose Musc even better.

Rose Musc Sonoma Scent Studio Alfons_Mucha_-_1898_-_Dance WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

Laurie Erickson at Sonoma Scent Studio writes: …I wanted Rose Musc to be a true rose softened by a powdery musk base. I like the innocence of the rose paired with the dusky labdanum and musk. The blend has a very light touch of animalic notes.

Further reading: Perfume Posse and Scent of Abricots
Sonoma Scent Studio has $75/34ml and very reasonable samples

Which is your rose? Have you tried any of the Sonoma Scent Studio work?
Portia xx

Vintage joy Parfum by Jean Patou: Live Video Sniff

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Post by Portia

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Hey Happy Huffers,

Vintage joy Parfum by Jean Patou

Live Video Sniff

Joy vintage parfum Jean Patou home 2015

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Tuberose, rose, ylang-ylang, aldehydes, peach, green notes
Heart: Jasmine, iris root, Bulgarian rose, lily of the valley, orchid
Base: Musk, sandalwood, civet

Joy is one of my favourites and I scour the web for bottles of it. We always do opening ceremony videos because some of them are fakes and we need to get refunds. We have had a couple of fakes this summer already. These counterfeiters do an excellent job too, it’s not till you spray the juice that you know.

Scotty and I on the lanai enjoying summer and smelling FABULOUS!

 

Eau Moheli by Olivier Pescheux for Diptyque 2013

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Post by Portia

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Hey Fumie Family,

Do you ever look through your samples and find something you have absolutely no recollection of acquiring? Today’s fragrance was in a lovely little box with a 2ml manufacturers spritz sample inside, about 70% full. So I did what any self respecting perfumista would do, I spritzed……

Yes, I know the northern hemisphere is gripped by winter but todays offering will have you dreaming that you’re seated at the bar in the pool ordering dacquiris from the half naked barman at your favourite equatorial resort.

Eau Moheli by Diptyque 2013

Eau Moheli by Olivier Pescheux

Eau Moheli Diptyque FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Floral notes, ylang-ylang, patchouli, pink pepper, ginger, vetiver, benzoin, incense

Green ginger, pink pepper and I would have picked coriander to open, a lovely sweet green fragrance with a hint of ylang’s creamy/banana/white flower underneath (Yes I know ylang is yellow but it gives definite white floral attitude). A lush and tropical opening. Here in Sydney we have some rain today and the world is muggy, Eau Moheli seems perfectly placed for the temperature and perfectly fits my mood of languid relaxation.

Once the opening fireworks burn down a bit Eau Moheli becomes more about the ylang but now it’s riding a crisp green vetiver and cleanest patchouli. This is my favourite part of the fragrance life. Not groundbreaking but extremely pleasant to wear, Eau Moheli becomes a fresh green with white flowers, still tropical and maintaining it’s island paradise holiday feel. I’m surprised coconut isn’t mentioned as a note.

Eau Moheli by Diptyque Pool_Bar WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

I feel that Diptyque, once at the vanguard of niche perfumery, has become a much more mainstream offering. If you were not a perfumista and you asked an SA for something tropical but more grown up and elegant than the Escada or Bronze Goddess lines then it would be a complete revelation to be shown Eau Moheli. It’s a beautifully smooth, easy wearing tropical fragrance that never skews to over ripe fruit of suntan lotion and would be excellent sniffed as someone walked past you.

As the fragrance progresses it gets a sweet resinous patchouli glow and I would say a healthy dose of musks for smooth vetiver dry down, very pretty but completely unchallenging for the hardcore perfume enthusiast. Ultimately an extremely wearable beauty with good projection and longevity.

Eau Moheli by Diptyque Frederic_Edwin_Church_-_Morning_in_the_Tropics WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

Further reading: Now Smell This and Bois de Jasmin
LuckyScent has $98/100ml and Samples

Do you have an easy wear tropical fragrance?
Portia xx