Rose Musc by Laurie Erickson for Sonoma Scent Studio 2007

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Post by Portia

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Hi there APJ,

Reading about Rose Musc on the Perfume Posse made me laugh, Tom is hilarious. There are a LOT of rose fragrances in my collection, from my all time favourite rose Mohur by Neela Vermeire Creations through a bunch of Parfum des Rosines, a few oudh/rose frags, and some from independents, designer and niche. There’s something about roses that call to my soul. The ultra smooth, modern sheer heft of Voleur de Roses by L’Artisan Parfumeur to the dark, bitter, unfettered and pulsating Ballets Rouges by Olympic Orchids, I love them all. So if Tom rates it, though not for him, then I thought I better gran some and get it on me.

Rose Musc by Sonoma Scent Studio 2007

Rose Musc by Laurie Erickson

 

Rose Musc Sonoma Scent Studio FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Sonoma Scent Studio gives these featured accords:
Rose petals, amber, labdanum absolute, skin musks

Roses, Roses, Roses! big a full and fabulous. Blooming dark pink roses with their sweet and spicy, tart apple and plum skin overtones. You know the ones? Maybe 7 to a stem, fabulously opulent looking, as big as your hand and when you touch their open flowers the petals float off the bush leaving a carpet of cerise, as if the bush has been bleeding. Rose Musc is all of that and more.

The labdanum/amber warms the rose and bolsters it, keeping it vegetally sweet and engaging. Where Ballets Rouges is darkened by twig, branch and humus Rose Musc is lighter, smoother and more regal. You still know you are wearing an independent perfumers fragrance, there is none of the pasty and pastel hum drum of the department store designer, nor the delicately overproduced loveliness of the designer prive lines. Rose Musc is adamant, strident and over the top gorgeousness, an oldie-worldie rose that has a Mucha picture as its focus. I chose another Mucha picture that I think captures the soul of Rose Musc even better.

Rose Musc Sonoma Scent Studio Alfons_Mucha_-_1898_-_Dance WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

Laurie Erickson at Sonoma Scent Studio writes: …I wanted Rose Musc to be a true rose softened by a powdery musk base. I like the innocence of the rose paired with the dusky labdanum and musk. The blend has a very light touch of animalic notes.

Further reading: Perfume Posse and Scent of Abricots
Sonoma Scent Studio has $75/34ml and very reasonable samples

Which is your rose? Have you tried any of the Sonoma Scent Studio work?
Portia xx

Eau Moheli by Olivier Pescheux for Diptyque 2013

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Post by Portia

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Hey Fumie Family,

Do you ever look through your samples and find something you have absolutely no recollection of acquiring? Today’s fragrance was in a lovely little box with a 2ml manufacturers spritz sample inside, about 70% full. So I did what any self respecting perfumista would do, I spritzed……

Yes, I know the northern hemisphere is gripped by winter but todays offering will have you dreaming that you’re seated at the bar in the pool ordering dacquiris from the half naked barman at your favourite equatorial resort.

Eau Moheli by Diptyque 2013

Eau Moheli by Olivier Pescheux

Eau Moheli Diptyque FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Floral notes, ylang-ylang, patchouli, pink pepper, ginger, vetiver, benzoin, incense

Green ginger, pink pepper and I would have picked coriander to open, a lovely sweet green fragrance with a hint of ylang’s creamy/banana/white flower underneath (Yes I know ylang is yellow but it gives definite white floral attitude). A lush and tropical opening. Here in Sydney we have some rain today and the world is muggy, Eau Moheli seems perfectly placed for the temperature and perfectly fits my mood of languid relaxation.

Once the opening fireworks burn down a bit Eau Moheli becomes more about the ylang but now it’s riding a crisp green vetiver and cleanest patchouli. This is my favourite part of the fragrance life. Not groundbreaking but extremely pleasant to wear, Eau Moheli becomes a fresh green with white flowers, still tropical and maintaining it’s island paradise holiday feel. I’m surprised coconut isn’t mentioned as a note.

Eau Moheli by Diptyque Pool_Bar WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

I feel that Diptyque, once at the vanguard of niche perfumery, has become a much more mainstream offering. If you were not a perfumista and you asked an SA for something tropical but more grown up and elegant than the Escada or Bronze Goddess lines then it would be a complete revelation to be shown Eau Moheli. It’s a beautifully smooth, easy wearing tropical fragrance that never skews to over ripe fruit of suntan lotion and would be excellent sniffed as someone walked past you.

As the fragrance progresses it gets a sweet resinous patchouli glow and I would say a healthy dose of musks for smooth vetiver dry down, very pretty but completely unchallenging for the hardcore perfume enthusiast. Ultimately an extremely wearable beauty with good projection and longevity.

Eau Moheli by Diptyque Frederic_Edwin_Church_-_Morning_in_the_Tropics WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

Further reading: Now Smell This and Bois de Jasmin
LuckyScent has $98/100ml and Samples

Do you have an easy wear tropical fragrance?
Portia xx

Stella by Jacques Cavallier for Stella McCartney 2003

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Post by Willa Zheng

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There is something about Stella that makes grown men swoon and hearts aflutter. If I have a fragrance that elicits compliments from the opposite-sex more than any other, this is it. Interestingly, when I studied in Glasgow during the winter of 07, there was barely a day when I wouldn’t catch a whiff of Stella in the streets. For Stella is nostalgic, welcoming and yet modern.

Stella by Stella McCartney 2003

Stella by Jacques Cavallier

Released in 2003, at first exclusively amongst Stella McCartney’s fashion friends, it was a tribute to her recently-deceased mother, Linda McCartney. Stella McCartney’s inspiration was the big, fragrant, olde-worlde roses that her mother used to buy and fill the rooms with their scent. At the time, big bold rose fragrances had fallen out of fashion so Stella McCartney’s Stella was a standout in department stores and became an instant top-seller for Yves Saint Laurent Beauté, which owns Stella McCartney brand fragrances.

Stella Stella McCartney FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Rose oil, peony, tangerine
Heart: Rose
Base: Amber

To the casual nose, Stella is dripping in rose oils and velvety rose petals. Stella is a big, heavy, wet rose. Rose fragrances can sometimes smell sharp and old fashioned. However, Jacques Cavallier (L’eau d’Issey, JPG Classique) circumvented that by softening it, making it more romantic and modern by adding notes of peony (which smells rosey but not really), galaxolide (an airy, clean, soapy kind of musk. Think shampoo and laundry powder. We are in the age of Sophia Grojsman and the monolithic fragrances she popularised, afterall), mandarin (so the fragrance opens citrusy and it adds a dash of the sweetness you’d find in real roses) and amber (to lock it all in).
Given that simple structure, Stella is a fairly linear fragrance. There is more zest and sweetness at the start, moving to a sheer, rosey, amber-musk drydown. At its core, Stella creates the olfactory effect of a plush, musky, live rose viewed through misty amber glass. You smell clean, classy, romantic and all woman.

Stella Stella McCartney Audrey Rose With Dew Drops FlickrFlickr

Given the romantic soft impressions left by Stella, you wouldn’t think it would have massive silage. But its scent molecules are heavy and are robust enough to be picked up and carried by wind to enthral your amore. Stella can be detected for 8-10 hours on my skin, but a re-spray is recommended after 4 hours to keep those compliments coming.

Of course, to trip people up, a man could totally wear Stella by Stella McCartney. A man who wears Stella knows how romance is done. He is sensual and frankly, irresistible. Just saying.

Unfortunately, like most great perfumes of the past, this fragrance has been reformulated. This review is based on the original version from my own personal collection.

Stella Maegan Tintari Stella McCartney spring 2010 FlickrFlickr

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and Katie Puckrik
FragranceNet has $69/50ml before Coupon
My Perfume Samples have $3/ml

What do you think about Stella? Do you have another favourite amber-rose fragrance?
Willa

NB: If you shop at My Perfume Samples from an APJ link I get a kickback.

Guerlain: Rue de Saint Honoré 2016: Photo Essay

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Post by Portia

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Hey there Guerlainophiles,

The Place Vendome store is closed. Sad but the good news is that they are re-opening there at a smaller venue, work to commence soon.

In the interim Guerlain have opened a lovely new store on the Rue de Saint Honoré. It opened last Thursday! So new there is no name on the front. Jin & I had to follow our noses. Inside the crew were extremely friendly and helpful. Our particular hostess was Coraline and she wanted us to have the ultimate Guerlain experience.

Guerlain: Rue de Saint Honoré 2016

Ostensibly I was going in to gran a Nahema parfum and a bottle of L’Heure de Nuit. It didn’t quite pan out that way because there was NEW STUFF! But I did manage to grab the Nahema parfum, There is a new exclusive and I fell heavily so I swapped out my L’Heure de Nuit for a Promenade des Anglais! Fig, Iris and Citrus over a seemingly marzipan base. Freaking gorgeous!

The real surprise was the new multi coloured glas bottles in the exclusives bee bottles. They are 125ml and you can choose any of the 7 or so colours and put in one of the 18 scents. Once you have made your selection your choice of fragrance s then decanted into your bottle from a large industrial urn, like a 21st century Caron adventure, and packed safely away for traveling. It’s quite the experience. As always, Guerlain delivers a magical and exciting ride.

The choice was interesting and it took me nearly half an hour to finally decide on Cuir Beluga. Here is how our afternoon panned out in pictures. You can only get these bottles at the Rue de Saint Honoré store and they are not sending any. It’s a limited offer so get to paris QUICK!

Enjoy,
Portia xx

Guerlain: Rue de Saint Honoré 2016

Photo Essay

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Versace Man Eau Fraiche by Olivier Cresp for Versace 2006

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Post by Portia

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Hey Designer Fragrance Fiends,

Once upon a time, long, long ago there was a fashion house named Versace that made excellent fragrances. Run by its flamboyant and fabulous namesake Gianni Versace who was gunned down outside his Miami, Florida home July 1997. Since his demise the Versace fragrances have become cheaper and nastier, rarely a gem will lift its head above the dross. This is not really one of them but a mate of mine was smelling particularly good a while back and I asked what he was wearing, “Versace Eau Fraiche in the blue bottle” was his proud as punch answer. How could I disagree with my nose so I went and ordered a decant.

Versace Man Eau Fraiche by Versace 2006

Versace Man Eau Fraiche by Olivier Cresp

Versace Man Eau Fraiche Versace FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lemon, bergamot, rosewood, rose
Heart: Cedar, tarragon, sage, pepper
Base: Amber, musk, saffron, woody notes

Olivier Cresp is a nose that has created some awesome blockbusters. In my collection I have or had full bottles of Juniper Sling, Kokorico, Angel, Armani Attitude and Kenzo Amour Indian Holi: all so different yet created by the same perfumer.

Opening freshly aquatic with a tingling zing of citrus Versace Man Eau Fraiche has all the hallmarks of a summer sports flanker. Bright, artificial, uber clean and lightly toxic smelling. Under this blast of radioactive citrus floats a pretty herbal greenery made piquant by cracked black pepper and a whiff of dry woods. The citrus has now softened considerably and has become quite likable with a creamy hint of pith.

Versace Man Eau Fraiche Versace Orange pith WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

As we warm into the heart Versace Man Eau Fraiche becomes quite like many of the eau de cologne style of fragrances. Nothing smells natural but it doesn’t smell bad I’m enjoying wearing it and my mate smelled delicious. More of a household functional scent than fine fragrance, it could very well be related to the scent they use in hospital disinfectant to make the corridors smell a little brighter and more friendly. It smells clean and invigorating and I can see why so many men wear it. Also over the scent of a lightly sweaty, healthy man it’s very nice. I’m surprised that juniper berries aren’t included in the notes but I suppose they covered it with cedar. I also feel that it’s full of a couple of notes that are so ubiquitous that they should jump out at me as what they are, sadly they dont.

Versace Man Eau Fraiche remains pretty linear with little warming through the base on me, projection and longevity are good but it’s the sillage that will have people looking after you with interest. I would love to smell this on one of my girlfriends to see how it lives on the ladies, probably even more lovely.

Versace Man Eau Fraiche Sexy Brazilian

FragranceNet has $37/50ml before Coupon
My Perfume Samples has $7/5ml

Do your friends ever smell freaking amazing in stuff you wouldn’t use to clean your driveway?
Portia xx

N.B. If you hit the My Perfume Samples link and shop I get a kickback.

Remarkable People by Quentin Bisch + Cecile Matton for Etat Libre d’Orange 2015

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Post by Portia

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Hey there Australian Perfume Junkies,

It’s excellent having an Etat Libre d’Orange online here in Australia with the whole range. You can buy some in Sephora if you’re in a big city, or Peony Melbourne, but Etat Libre d’Orange Au will ship Australia wide. How freaking exciting is that?

Remarkable People by Etat Libre d’Orange 2015

Remarkable People by Quentin Bisch + Cecile Matton

Remarkable People Etat Libre d`Orange FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Grapefruit, champagne, cardamom
Heart: Jasmine, curry tree, black pepper
Base: Labdanum, sandalwood, lorenox

Sweet champagne with a grapefruit twist and a herbal thread woven through? Remarkable People opens a bit like your first sip of champagne punch at a garden party. Simultaneously tart and warming, you can even smell the anticipation in the air. The fizz is maintained into the heart and the smell of sun warmed skin mingles with the woody smell of a BarBQ being organised and the first sizzle of spices as marinades hit the grill.

Remarkable People Etat Libre d'Orange Nancy_Viscountess_Astor WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

Remarkable People smells like a lavish reinterpretation of the cologne style of fragrances. A bit warmer and more engaging, unisex and the citrus seems to follow the resins into the base as a pithy, white musky cleanliness. The most close resemblance in a fragrance is Royal Bain de Caron but I wonder if I am being led by the idea of the champagne note. Lorenox is a Mace accord (according to fragrantica) and it has some leather/amber/woodsy facets.

The dry down is pretty, wearable and though no big new reveal it is interesting for a few hours before fading out. I think Remarkable People will be a hit for ELdO because it’s totally wearable and smells very nice. Remarkable? I think yes, if you smelled someone walking by with it on.

Remarkable People Etat Libre d'Orange Oscar Wilde ArtEllstaPhoto Stolen ArtEllsta

Further reading: MeganInSaintMaxime and Colognoisseur
Etat Libre d’Orange in Australia has $100/50ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting from $4.50/m

Do you have an Etat Libre d’Orage yet? Which one and why?
Portia xx

Amaranthine by Bertrand Duchaufour for Penhaligon’s 2009

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Post by Portia

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Hi there Crew,

Way back in 2009/10 when Amaranthine was first released it caused uproar. Nobody could quite believe that very British house Penhaligon’s would bring out such a naughty little firecracker of a frag. I have a bottle from Birgit at OT but while going through my decants I refound Amaranthine and decided to give myself a big fat spritz.

Amaranthine by Penhaligon’s 2009

Amaranthine by Bertrand Duchaufour

Amaranthine Penhaligon`s FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Banana leaf, Green tea, Cardamom absolute, Coriander seed, White freesia
Heart: Rose, Carnation, Clove bud oil, Orange blossom, Ylang-ylang-oil, Egyptian jasmine absolute
Base: Musk, Vanilla, Sandalwood, Evaporated milk, Tonka bean absolute

Yes, it opens green and fresh yet curiously tropical and already you can tell there will be white flowers in abundance. Amaranthine is large and forthright, filled chock full of creamy flowers, their stems and a little of their vase water that has perhaps been left a day too long before changing.

As we leave the opening extravaganza behind Amaranthine becomes totally tropical. A warm rich and radiant white/yellow floral with a healthy green punch and fruity byplay. Creamy seems to fall short of how smooth and glutinous Amaranthine becomes, not sticky or lumpy but perfectly, silkily, gloriously thick and luscious. With my nose up close I feel that it’s so thick and viscous that perhaps I will drown in its vegetal embrace. Once I put my arm back by my side it softens to a gently and warm vanilla and floral bouquet, Amaranthine become charming and harmless again. Beautiful, alluring and enchanting but in a safe way, then I bring my arm back to my nose and I’m lost. It’s a heavy scent, a brocade bouquet.

Amaranthine Penhaligon`s Patrick McNally White Ginger FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

March on Perfume Posse uses the word refulgent and when I looked it up it means shining brightly. It’s as accurate a word as I can find to explain how dazzling Amaranthine is. Strange that we read or hear so little about it nowadays because it was a game changing fragrance at the time and now I can only think of Amoureuse by Parfums DelRae being anywhere near as outrageous.

For some reason today my skin skips the sexy boudoir completely and goes directly to plush, sweet vanilla/sandalwood and a hefty dollop of clean skin musks. This lovely comfortable dry down can last for a full day & night and is basically indelible on fabric.

Amaranthine Penhaligon`s Jesus del Toro Garcia Bridal Boudoir FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and Perfume Shrine
Libertine Parfumerie has $239/100ml with FREE Australian delivery
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/ml

How was Amaranthine for you? Is it something you’ve loved, hated, never tried?
Portia xx

Erdenstern by Tanja Bochnig for April Aromatics 2014

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Post by Joseph Sagona

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Hi APJ,

SOTD April Aromatics Erdenstern EDP: classified as a Woody Floral Musk.

Erdenstern by April Aromatics 2014

Erdenstern by Tanja Bochnig

Erdenstern April Aromatics FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Musk, ambergris, vetiver, tobacco leaf, tonka bean, cacao, opoponax

I get the Tobacco, Cacao, Musk, Vetiver, Opoponax and Tonka Bean, it opens up with a warm, botanical, musk and a spicy, vanilla tinged Tonka bean, the musk is strong, the Tonka bean is mild. Then after thirty minutes, the Tonka bean dissipates, the musk softens, in comes a earthy, damp vetiver and a dusty cacao with a touch of bitterness, the vetiver is mild, the cacao is soft. Four hours on and the musk and cacao dissipate, the vetiver softens, in comes a sweet, dry tobacco and a warm, honey tinged opoponax. The tobacco and opopnax are mild.

Erdenstern reminds me slightly of Frapin’s Speakeasy, Speakeasy is more musky, boozy, floral, citric and herbal. It also comes off fresh and slightly fruity. There is a very subtle gingerbread cookie with almonds and honey smell I get out of Erdenstern. The warm spiciness, bitter almonds and syrupy honey are really lovely.

Erdenstern April Aromatics Hashoo Foundation USA - Houston, TX Rebuilding Plan Bee FlickrFlickr

A very aromatic fragrance, balmy, warm, comforting, nutty, complex, smoky with a touch of sweetness and soft woody undertones.

From April Aromatics: The mystery of Avalon, the holy place between the worlds of gods and mortals, is the inspiration for Earth Star. The “Earth Star”/ Erdenstern symbolizes this connection and provides a conduit between these two worlds. Earth Star/ Erdenstern shimmers through wet leaves within mystical landscapes.
The masculine merges with the feminine; they become one and rise together with the forces of Nature. When the Earth exhales softly, in Autumn, she exudes a scent of completion and everything comes to rest. Then, gently the veil lifts, like a mist above the valleys, and transports us to time beyond time. Soft Musk and warm notes of ambergris captivate our senses, while earthy Vetiver reminds us to luxuriate in the memories of summer. Tobacco leaves intertwined with the mild sweetness of tonka and cocoa, merge into the sacredness of Opoponax. This blissful balance between the worlds, genders and emotions, warms and guides us to a personal place of comfort and peace.

Erdenstern April Aromatics Malcolm Carlaw Peaceful Evening in Dover Canyon FlickrFlickr

April Aromatics has €169/30ml

Erdenstern would be lovely in the Fall and Winter, I get average projection and average longevity, this was my first introduction into the April Aromatics house and it was a good one.

Which is your April Aromatic? Have you tried them?
Joseph

Shower Time Fun + Beauty

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Post by AF Beauty

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Hi APJ,

So, in the last few years there has been a bit of a move towards products which can be used in the shower in order to save time and make you feel amazing. For me, the verdict is still out on whether they do actually save money or make you feel amazing.

Shower Time Fun + Beauty

Nivea In-Shower Rich Body Lotion Skin Conditioner

First up, Nivea In-Shower Rich Body Lotion. I’ve had this in my shower for about a year. The bottle is massive to start with – and while that might sound great, let me tell you two things. First, massive bottles are difficult to handle with wet shower hands. Second, massive bottles cause massive bruises when you drop them on your feet. (You’re welcome.)

Well, ONCE you’ve managed to dispense some product, then you need to apply and actually it’s not too bad. It has the classic Nivea aroma, which is comforting to me. The product is thick and feels a little waxy as you apply. It’s a very difficult texture to describe – initially you’d not notice anything different to a standard lotion, but if you rub your hands together it feels that you’ve rubbed your hands in lip balm! That said, if you apply as instructed and rinse, basically don’t rub your hands together, it’s not too noticeable.
Once out of the shower your bod is, undeniably, softer and smoother although I did find some parts didn’t sink in as well as I expected.

An hour after the shower and the Nivea scent is gone, which is a bit of shame. However, all that said, I will make more of an effort to use it again and when I run out; I’ll try a different variation. I’ll also look for a pump-action dispenser for my inept hands!

St Tropez Gradual Tan In Shower

Next up, a newbie in Australia, St Tropez In Shower Gradual Tan. At a pretty expensive price point compared to other self-tan products ($40!!) I was expecting good things from this. I ordered on a pre-order and was thrilled when it arrived. I went to use it the first time after the gym in the shower at work one day. I have to get lifts into the basement at work to use the showers, it would appear that the lift destination is actually the Antarctic, it’s freezing!

The instruction for this product is to apply with the shower off and let it sit for three minutes. Let me tell you, three minutes in the cold shower without water is actually eternity. I tried this a few times and I was bargaining with myself on how long I would be able to stand the cold. I have no idea how this is so popular in the UK where it’s freezing!

The product still had that biscuity smell of self-tan and I didn’t really notice a change, I guess because I couldn’t tolerate the wait.
Personally I would prefer to use an out of shower self-tan and tolerate the smell.

I’d love to hear if there are any fans of either product here?

Eau de Cédrat by L’Occitane 2015

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Post by Portia

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When Eau de Cedrat (I call it Cedrat in my head, so we’ll use that for this post). When Cedrat was first released by L’Occitane I was given some of the range to try. I kept the Shower Gel and Soap for myself and gave the rest to friends or in giveaways so other people could try the products and give me feedback. One person said they are so impressed that they already went to a L’Occitane store and purchased more of the range, another friend loves the fragrance and has used quite a bit of his bottle and I went and repurchased at full retail a new shower gel.

Eau de Cedrat by L’Occitane 2015

Eau de Cedrat L`Occitane FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Cedrat bark, bergamot
Heart: Blue ginger, nutmeg
Base: Cedar, cashmere wood

Currently I have drenched myself in Cedrat to combat the humid night heat we are having in Sydney at the moment. Don’t misunderstand me, I love the heat and relish the Sydney summer. Night time though I find it hard to sleep in muggy heat, it’s 1am and still 21C (70F) with 86% humidity so I’ve slipped into my office and spritzed liberally. A cool, sharp, sweet citrus opening that is bold and energising, clear bergamot with almost no breath or pith that runs headlong into zinging, singing ginger. They are quite the pair, fizzing merrily away like a lemon squash and yet managing to be refreshing.

L'Occitane Cedrat Collection 1

Cedrat is not nearly as nuanced or storied as a cologne, it’s a bright and forthright citrus fortified by a few bit players that help it maintain buoyancy. I’m fragrantly wafting off to bed now, Jin has installed new ceiling fans and it would be rude not to go lie under one with him. I know that there will be a very slight waft of amorphous woods and a hint of citrus left tomorrow morning.

This is a perfect gift for anyone who is aware of their appearance but not deeply into the whole vanity trip. A casual, easy care set that means you or your partner can have a single scent right through the bathing and living process. Easy peasy, looks and smells great and it won’t break the bank.

L'Occitane Cedrat Collection

Further reading: Mr Neo Luxe and Red Lips Blue Eyes
L’Occitane Australia has the range from $8.50 up

Do you love a fully integrated regime?
Portia xx