Frankincense

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Narth

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Hello friends, Narth here enjoying the Holiday season. Like many of you I plan my holiday fragrances with great glee, though Nuit de Noel in 40c weather was definitely a mistake! This year I was thinking about the Magi gifts of gold, frankincense and myrrh. I have Comme de Garcon’s 888 for the gold, many frankincense choices and I’m sure I have a BPAL somewhere heavy on myrrh. Maybe I’ll try layering them! Today however I am on a frankincense kick. I have three very fine examples of what a treasure frankincense can be when it’s the dominant note in the fragrance.

Frankincense

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No Radio Silence. And a Little Perfume Homework.

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Val the Cookie Queen.

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Servus APJ

I said I was gonna take a break.  I am so damn busy.  And yet here we are.

“You can’t have silence on the radio; people will turn away from the station.”  Robert Barry.  American artist.  Conceptual art.

I had my first radio show alone last week.  Alone in the studio.  I got there early enough to set it all up without going into panic mode.  I mean there is not a lot to set up to be honest.  I had my suspicions that there might be a hitch when I could not listen to my music on the cue button.  Damn.  I watched the seconds count down until my jingle played, turned on the microphone and — yeah.

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UNSPLASH. 

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Delina by Parfums De Marly

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Narth

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Hello friends, it’s Narth here in a bit of a pink quandary! Since it was released in 2017 to glorious praise I’ve wanted to try Parfums De Marly Delina. Not because of the glorious praise, we know that can be a cyclic thing in perfume land, but because of the glorious PINK. The opaque bottle is the most beautiful colour, a confectionery pinkness that draws the eye and the hand. It’s the exact colour I aimed for and achieved when I squeezed a couple drops of red food dye into a tub of Betty Crocker frosting for my Betty Crocker frosting high tea sandwiches (fluffy white bread, cut off crusts, spatula on the frosting). These weren’t exactly a success but they looked very pretty and that’s how I feel about Parfums De Marly Delina

Parfums De Marly Delina 2017: A Tale of Many Pinks

Quentin Bisch

Top: Bergamot, Lychee, Rhubarb, Nutmeg,
Middle: Turkish Rose, Peony, Petalia, Vanilla and Musk
Base: Cashmeran, Haitian Vetiver, Cedar and Incense

It took me some time to track this scent down. The one store stocking it never had the tester, though they always had a completely different tester bottle in front of the Delina box. For months it would go like this;

Narth: Would you happen to have the Delina in a tester?
SA: Yes it is right here.
Narth: No that’s Cassili, the Delina is pink.
SA: Oh I don’t think so..

Google ensues

SA: Well I guess someone stole it.

I walk through this shop enroute regularly and this weird conversation kept happening and still no pink, no very very mouthwatering Parfums De Marly Delina. But then one day, and you’d have to be Australian to appreciate how this signifies the heavens opening and the trumpets trumpeting, the SA said “oh I think we have a sample” and pressed one into my hand. YES! I couldn’t wait to get home and have it be Pinkness time!

Well just like my pretty sandwiches it didn’t deliver, I think it may even be as yucky as I secretly knew my sandwiches were.

We have rhubarb, we have custard apple, we have custard.. yes for maybe 5 seconds this is quite enchanting. And then the sharpness comes out. I’d like to say tartness but tartness is tasty and this is more a synthetic sharpness pretending to be tartness. And it’s nuclear. Couldn’t scrub it off in the shower. I was quite upset! In the end it’s a screechy mess.

I am THE person marketing and advertisements and stories and bottles are made for, I lie back before the marketing gods and wait to be influenced. That pink lettering on the Fracas bottle? That’s what Fracas smells like to me forever. Parfums de Marley Delina still smells pink, but it’s a bad pink. It’s a harsh pink. It’s the pink of a kitchen cleanser from the 60’s.

I am truly happy for those of you who love this, you have a beautiful bottle and I am sure Parfums De Marly Delina is a creamy goddess on you!

I want to hear your stories when all your untested fantasies didn’t deliver! What was your biggest disappointment?

Bye for now, Narth xx

“Wild Geese That Fly With the Moon on Their Wings …..” CQ’s Favourite Things 2019.

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Val the Cookie Queen.

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Hi Guys.

Into the last month of 2019.  Time for a round up of my favourite things.  It has been a busy year but when is it not?  Let’s start with books and end with perfumes huh?  Feel free to jump straight to the scents.  Here we go …….

“Wild Geese That Fly With the Moon on Their Wings …..”  CQ’s Favourite Things 2019.

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Elephant by Zoologist

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Narth

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Hello Friends, it’s Narth here reminiscing about one of my longest holy grails of scent. Not a particular bottle, but an idea in my head. I’m sure we’ve all had them, seeking a rose with that cold water dewy note, the patchouli that was the loamiest of loamy earth, actual salt (still never found that one). When an idea of a scent is stuck firmly in your head it can seem that nothing ever quite fulfills that desire. Some years ago mine was GREEN COCONUT. I loved coconut so much but I absolutely did not want to smell like a baked good. Smelling like a baked good sells, as can be seen by all the etsy scents, candles and perfume oils promising you will be wrapped in the warm aromas of a glazed brioche almond muffin with berries. People like this stuff and a lot of products do a very good job of replicating the decadent deliciousness of baked sweet treats. Sadly though I don’t have much of a sweet tooth either on my plate or my skin. My hunt for green coconut was constantly thwarted by vanilla.

My green coconut search did have a few hits. Estee Lauder Bronze Goddess was kind of okay, but it was more reminiscent of suntan lotion than that sharp, husky greenness of freshly opened coconut. The Body Shop had an extremely excellent coconut body cream which I went through multiple bottles of but despite their products having excellent sillage I am still a perfume person and I wanted that scent in a bottle. Their edt’s were flat, sour and ephemeral in comparison. For years I thought about what exactly my green coconut should smell like. What I really wanted was a coconut version of L’Artisan’s Premier Figuier. That slightly bitter, lactic, vegetal fig without a sugar stick in sight only not fig, coconut!

Zoologist Elephant 2017

Chris Bartlett

Top: Tea Leaves, Darjeeling Tea, Magnolia
Middle: Cocoa, Coconut Milk, Incense, Jasmine, Woods
Base: Amber, Musk, Patchouli, Sandalwood

In Zoologist Elephant I have now found what I believe is the closest I will get. I’d like the coconut to be more dominant but the coconut that is in there is gloriously, fragrantly, green!

Zoologist Elephant is a raw, linear scent that anyone seeking more more more green will appreciate. There’s the intense vegetation, the crushed coconut mixed underfoot with earth and broken leaves. It’s lactic. It’s cold. It’s not screechy or in your face. I wish I got the humidity some people mention, I wish I was truly in the jungle but for me this is a cooler clime sedate fragrance. If you’ve enjoyed green scents but find the vintage ones like Estee Lauder’s Aliage too intense or grating this may well be your answer. Zoologist fragrances often take me back to older era scents but they’ve been retooled and the more abrasive elements are gone, replaced by something quirky. I’ve been wearing Elephant for several days and I’m looking forward to trying it in the heat. But for now I’m happy that a decade old desire has unexpectedly been satisfied.

Have you had a note you’ve been searching for, ever hopeful you’ll find exactly what you dream of?

Bye for now, Narth xx

CQ Snippets From The Week That Was.

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Val the Cookie Queen

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Hi there y’all

Been an active couple of weeks here in the heart of the Austrian Salzkammergut.  We are busy moving apartments.  Amazing how much crap there is to throw away after living in one place for twenty-five years.  Luckily we are only moving about 400 meters away, so we have been steadily taking the stuff that we want to keep and setting the place up.  Once we have moved in we have two months to clear this place out.  We are serial renters.  Having chose to live an – uhm – rather wayward life up until our early thirties, we have never been a position to buy.   We already own the home that my husband grew up in, as his parents put it into our names about fifteen years ago, so renting is just fine.  His parents will continue to live in it until they turn their toes up.  And when it is eventually properly ours we will not have to pay inheritance taxes or whatever.  Planning ahead.

CQ Snippets From The Week That Was.

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Carduus by Jorum Studio: Scent of Scotland

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Sandra

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Hey APJ! How is everyone doing?

It has been busy lately. October was still quite warm and sunny here in Basel. With November, autumn has finally set in with the hills surrounding us finally changing colours.

Every city/country has a scent memory for me. As a child, traveling, I started to notice these scents. For example, Argentina is horses, cows and BBQs. Greece is vegetal, salt from the sea and the smell of sun heated stones. Italy is peach, hay and toasted pine nuts. As an adult lover of scents and perfumes, I am aware of a new city and its smells. My new home city of Basel is currently smelling of roasted chestnuts, spices and wet fallen leaves. So imagine my surprise when I discovered a scent of Scotland.

Carduus by Jorum Studio: Scent of Scotland

Euan McCall

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Ruh by Pekji

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Narth

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Hello friends, it’s Narth here in a very good mood! I was fortunate this week to try Ruh by Pekji. Pekji is a niche house from Turkey with some exciting fragrances that are now more readily available than in their even more niche past.

Ooo Ruh, what have you done to me.. this jubilant fragrance from Pekji is a joy. A very modern Oriental, it briefly reminded me of the original Badgely Mischka but it’s much more exciting!

Ruh by Pekji 2015

Ömer Ipekçi

Ruh by Pekji

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White Shirts and Perfume.

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Val the Cookie Queen.

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Hey there APJ Crew and Friends

“White shirt now red, my bloody nose,  Sleeping, you’re on your tippy toes,  Creepin’ around like no one knows, Think you’re so criminal …….” Bad Guy.  Billie Eilish.

I recently bought a white shirt.  Damn expensive, beautiful cotton, no collar.  I have wanted one for years but every time I tried one on I looked like death warmed up.  White shirt, gray hair.    I fell in love with this one particular shirt in the window of a store which was at the time shut, and asked Blondeswunder to go in have look at it for me when it was open. Next thing I knew she called me and said she had bought it and that I owed her money.   I love it.  And I have to say that a well cut shirt is worth the extra dosh.  And as long as I put a ton of slap on and wear a coloured lipstick, I don’t look like the grim reaper.

 White Shirts and Perfume.

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